The Hippo


May 27, 2020








The Bakeshop on Kelley Street has it’s own donut-croissant hybrid: the dossant. Emelia Attridge photo.

 The Bakeshop on Kelley Street

Dossants available only on weekends.
171 Kelley St., Manchester

Cronut, meet the Dossant
Pastry craze comes to New Hampshire


 The Cronut took the foodie world by storm this spring, making news as crowds in New York lined the streets hoping to try the sugary, buttery croissant-donut, many leaving disappointed since its creator, Dominique Ansel, only prepares 300 each day.

Now, Manchester has its own version as The Bakeshop on Kelley Street is serving the “Dossant.”
“People are very curious,” Bakeshop owner Denise Nickerson said. “Here, it’s created quite a buzz. Saturday mornings we do usually have a line that goes out the door, and it’s probably not as crazy as New York City, but we do have people that line up. People are talking about it during the week that they’re going to come back on weekends. Pretty much we’re having people come in all day long for them, until we do run out — sometimes we run out by noon.”
Ansel launched the pastry hybrid in May, and media outlets quickly responded to the trendy item. Technically, the Cronut can’t be found anywhere else. Like others, Nickerson heard about the Cronut craze and thought she might try her own hand at the pastry.
“The actual name ‘Cronut’ has been trademarked by Dominique Ansel,” Nickerson said. “Although, they say that people have been doing these for a long time and people claim to have made them in different parts of the country and all that — and even in Canada. But Dominique Ansel has kind of brought it to everyone’s attention recently.”
The Dossant — donut-croissant — is Nickerson’s take on Ansel’s trend. She started experimenting with a recipe over the summer and began selling Dossants on Saturdays a few months back. Recently, The Bakeshop made Dossants available on both Saturdays and Sundays for the weekend crowd.
“We heard about them on the news, and everyone’s talking about them. So we said, ‘Let’s give them a try,’” she said. “It’s a laminated dough that we use, which is a process of rolling butter and pastry in many layers and it’s actually a two-day process for us — that’s why we’re doing it right now just on weekends. And then once we have our batter together, what we do is more or less process it how we would a donut so it does get fried, and then we do put a nice donut glaze on top of it.”
Nickerson prepares the dough earlier in the week, and makes 100 Dossants on Saturdays (“That’s about all we can handle,” she said), then 30 or 40 on Sundays. 
“They’re very light, flaky, and it’s a great combination,” Nickerson said. “I think down in New York City they’re doing a lot of different flavors — here we’re doing a glazed. We also offer a cinnamon [Dossant]. I think this week we’re doing a maple glaze for fall. We’re not really doing the filled versions, and that’s why I kind of say it’s our own version of the Cronut.”
Ansel creates his Cronuts with flavored fillings like rose, blackberry lime and lemon maple. Although The Bakeshop on Kelley Street hasn’t been incorporating fillings, Nickerson said it’s something she would consider for the future.
“For now these are so good the way they are, you don’t need anything in them,” she said. “I would want to try a bite and say that’s all I need to try, and then I found myself totally eating the whole thing and not wanting to share it with anybody because it’s that good.”
The second-most popular items on weekends at The Bakeshop are the mini donuts. They’re about the size of a golfball, sold six to an order and in flavors like apple cider and cinnamon and sugar. Nickerson said many weekend customers purchase a Dossant along with an order of mini donuts.
The Bakeshop on Kelley Street also makes cakes, breads, muffins, bagels and desserts like chocolate mousse, éclairs and blanc noire torte. 
“We make everything ourselves. It’s kind of like the old days where I’m using a lot of my grandmother’s recipes, and I think it’s a lot of fun to see people come in and enjoy the whole bakery experience,” Nickerson said. “It’s funny, a lot of people that come in, too, for the Cronuts … they’re really here for the experience ... walking through the door, smelling all the good smells and then trying something they’ve heard talked about in New York City.” 

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