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Dec 15, 2017







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Basic pie dough

Courtesy of Jacob Maxwell, bakery manager for the Concord Food Co-Op (pre-made crusts are available for purchase)
 
19 ounces pastry flour
11 ounces all-purpose flour
4 ounces sugar
1 teaspoon salt
16 ounces cold butter, cubed
8 ounces ice cold water
 
Mix dry ingredients together. In a food processor, pulse dry ingredients and cubed butter until fully incorporated. Add water and mix by hand until no dryness remains. More water may be needed.
 
Recipe: Pork pie
Courtesy of Chuck and Diane Souther of Apple Hill Farm in Concord
 
1¼ pound ground pork
1 cup water
½ teaspoon ground sage
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon clove
1 tablespoon onion powder
Pie crust for 8-inch pie
 
Simmer the pork in one cup of water in a medium-sized sauce pan. Stir while cooking to break up the clumps. Cook slowly for about half an hour until the meat settles to the bottom. There should be a small amount of liquid remaining on the top. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Add the spices and stir in enough potato flakes to thicken the mixture (do not drain off any fats or liquid). Pour into the pie shell and cover with the top crust. Poke holes in the top pie crust to vent the steam and bake until the crust is lightly brown.
 
Recipe: Apple sweet potato mini pies
Courtesy of Liz Barbour of The Creative Feast in Hollis (makes about 12 pies)
 
A single-crust pie dough or a single-crust from a store-bought pie dough
1 large sweet potato
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 Granny Smith apple, diced very small
1 Cortland apple, diced very small
3 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
¼ cup dark brown sugar
¼ cup quick oats
¼ cup flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
 
Roll out the dough and cut into 12 rounds using a 2½ inch cookie cutter. Place each round into a mini muffin tin. Refrigerate while preparing filling topping. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. For mashed sweet potato, roast a large sweet potato in the oven until soft and easily pierced with a fork, about 25 minutes. Discard the skin and mash with 3 tablespoons of butter and ½ teaspoon of salt. Set aside. To make the apple filling, combine diced apples, brown sugar, cinnamon and vinegar. Set aside. To make the crisp topping, combine the brown sugar, oats, flour, cinnamon and butter in a food processor or by hand until it forms crumbles. Remove the muffin tin from the refrigerator and fill each crust halfway with apples. Top with 1 teaspoon of mashed sweet potato. Place in the oven and cook for 12 minutes. Remove minis from oven and top with 1 teaspoon of crumb topping. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and cook for another 15 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool before serving.
 
Recipe: Broccoli and bacon quiche
Courtesy of Patti Klemm of Klemm’s Bakery in Windham
 
6-8 eggs
½ cup milk
Pinch of salt
Pinch of pepper
 
Start with a pie shell and layer with an inch of mozzarella cheese. Add broccoli, onion and bacon to layer on the pie dish. In a mixing bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, salt and pepper together and add to the shell. Bake at 360 degrees for approximately 45 minutes.
 
Recipe: Pumpkin cheesecake
Courtesy of New Hampshire food blogger Susan Nye (serves about 12 to 16 people)
 
30-40 gingersnap cookies (enough for 2 cups of finely ground crumbs)
2 tablespoons brown sugar
5 tablespoons butter, melted
2 pounds cream cheese at room temperature
1½ cups sugar
3 eggs
1½ cups pumpkin puree
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon cognac or pure vanilla extract
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon allspice
¼ teaspoon cloves
Garnish: whipped cream
 
Set a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Break the gingersnaps into pieces, put in a food processor and process until finely ground. Add the brown sugar and pulse to combine. Put the cookie crumbs and butter in a 10-inch springform pan and mix with a fork until well combined. Firmly press the crumbs into the bottom and about ½ inch up the sides of the pan. Tightly wrap the bottom and sides of the pan into two large sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil and bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes. Cool the pan on a rack. Do not remove the foil. Meanwhile, put the cream cheese, sugar and spices in a large bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until smooth. Add the pumpkin, cream and cognac and beat until well combined. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the springform pan and carefully place it in a large roasting pan. Add enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Bake at 350 degrees until the cheesecake is golden, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Carefully lift the cheesecake from the roasting pan and remove the foil. Cool the cheesecake in the springform pan to room temperature on a rack. Still in a springform pan, cover and refrigerate overnight. Using a thin knife, carefully cut around the sides of the pan to loosen the cheesecake. Release the springform sides, cut the cheesecake into thin wedges and serve with a small dollop of whipped cream.
 
Recipe: Rustic apple croustade
Courtesy of New Hampshire food blogger Susan Nye (serves about 8 to 12 people)
 
5-6 Cortland or Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
¼ cup brown sugar
Grated zest of 1 orange
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
1 tablespoons Calvados or cognac
1 teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt
8 ounces phyllo leaves, fully defrosted
6-8 ounces (1½-2 sticks) butter, melted
2 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
 
Put the apples, brown sugar, orange zest and juice, Calvados, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt in a bowl and toss to combine. Reserve. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly brush a 10- to 12-inch quiche pan or pie plate with butter. Unwrap the phyllo, stack and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Remove the first phyllo sheet and replace the damp towel. Place the first sheet so it is about two-thirds in and one-third overlapping the pan. Brush lightly with butter. Continue to line the pan with half of the phyllo, lightly brushing the sheets with butter. Mound the apples in the pan. Dot the apples with the cold butter. Stack the remaining phyllo leaves on top of the apples, lightly brushing each with butter. Gently turn the edges of the phyllo up and pinch lightly to seal. Cut a few vents in the phyllo to let the steam escape. Bake at 400 degrees until the crust is golden brown and the fruit is tender, about 40 minutes. If the phyllo gets too brown, cover it loosely with foil. Let cool for 10 minutes and serve. If making ahead, reheat for 10 to 15 minutes in a warm oven before serving.
 
Recipe: Chocolate cream pie
Courtesy of Mike Cummings of Crosby Bakery in Nashua
 
First stage
9½ ounces of water
2/3 cup of sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla blend
Bring ingredients to boil before mixing ingredients from second stage
 
Second stage
1½ ounces water
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons milk powder
2 whole eggs
Add ingredients slowly to first stage after mixing together.
 
Third stage
1 ounce chocolate liqueur
1 tablespoon shortening or butter
Add to rest of ingredients and stir well.
 
Sweet pies
Pumpkin, apple, pecan — these are some of the standard pies for a holiday feast. But maybe you’re looking for something a little more exciting to serve along with the favorites. Here are some of the local spots selling pies to bring home for your holiday meal (call ASAP to order as many have cut-off dates), listed by some of the more intriguing flavors on their menus. Don’t worry, pumpkin-pie fans and apple-lovers; in most cases, the classics (as well as crowd-pleasers like chocolate, banana or Boston cream pies) are also available.
 
• Apple cranberry (The Wine’ing Butcher, 254 Wallace Road, Bedford, 488-5519; 16 Sheep Davis Road, Pembroke, 856-8855; 28 Weirs Road, Gilford, 293-4670; 81 Route 25, Meredith, 279-0300, thewineingbutcher.com)
• Apple crisp (The Cake Fairy, 114 Londonderry Turnpike, Hooksett, 518-8733, cakefairynh.com)
• Apple tarts: Think mini-pies. According to the website, “Our flaky pie crust baked to a golden brown, painted with white chocolate, filled with our delicious apple cinnamon filling topped with a dollop of whipped cream and sprinkled with our walnut brown sugar streusel.” (Frederick’s Pastries, 109 Route 101A, Amherst, 882-7725, pastry.net; 25 S. River, Bedford, 647-2253, pastry.net)
• Blueberry (Washington Street Catering & Cafe, 88 Washington St., Concord, 228-2000, washingtonstreetcatering.com)
• Blueberry crumb (Michelle’s Gourmet Pastries & Deli, 819 Union St., Manchester, 647-7150, michellespastries.com)
• Blueberry Lemon Mousse: with graham crust, fluffy lemon mousse layered with blueberries (Angela’s Pasta & Cheese Shop, 815 Chestnut St., Manchester, 625-9544, angelaspastaandcheese.com)
• Chocolate Brownie Pie: fudgy brownie in a pie crust topped with chocolate cream and then whipped cream (Chez Vachon, 136 Kelley St., Manchester, 625-9660, chezvachon.com)
• Chocolate Chip Ricotta Pie (Tuscan Market, 63 Main St., Salem, 912-5467, tuscanbrands.com)
• Coconut cream (Belmont Hall & Restaurant, 718 Grove St., Manchester, 625-8540, belmontrestaurant.com)
• Death by Chocolate Cream Pie: Made with a fudgy brownie, chocolate pudding and chocolate cream (The Red Arrow Diner, 112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 63 Union Square, Milford, 249-9222; redarrowdiner.com)
• Fruits of the Forest: Made with raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, peaches, rhubarb and apples (Triolo’s Bakery, 21 Kilton Road, Bedford, 232-3256, triolosbakery.com)
• Lemon Meringue (Brother’s Butcher, 8 Spit Brook Road, Nashua, 809-4180, brothers-butcher.com)
• Maple Bourbon Walnut (Just Like Mom’s Pastries, 353 Riverdale Road, Weare, 529-6667, justlikemomspastries.com)
• Maple Custard (Apple Hill Farm, 580 Mountain Road, Concord, 224-8862, applehillfarmnh.com)
• Midnight Pumpkin: Dark chocolate layered with pumpkin and spice (The Crust & Crumb Baking Co., 126 N. Main St., Concord, 219-0763, thecrustandcrumb.com)
• Peanut Butter Mousse: Graham cracker crust, light peanut butter mousse and chocolate ganache filling (The Bakeshop on Kelley Street, 171 Kelley St., Manchester, 624-3500, thebakeshooponkelleystreet.com)
• Pear Cranberry Walnut Crostata (The Black Forest Cafe & Bakery, 212 Route 101, Amherst, 672-0500, theblackforestcafe.com)
• Raspberry cream (Hart’s Turkey Farm, 233 Daniel Webster Highway, Meredith, 279-6212, hartsturkeyfarm.com)
• Ricotta Pie (Two Friends Cafe, 542 Mast Road in Goffstown, 627-6622, twofriendsbagel.com; Tuscan Market, 63 Main St., Salem, 912-5467, tuscanbrands.com)
• Sour Cherry (Concord Food Co-Op, 24 S. Main St., Concord, 225-6840, concordfoodcoop.coop)
• Strawberry Rhubarb (Carter Hill Orchard, 73 Carter Hill Road, Concord, 225-2625, carterhillapples.com).
• Vegan Granola-topped Apple (A Market Natural Foods, 125 Loring St., Manchester, 668-2650, myamarket.com)
 
Where to order savory pies
• Angela’s Cheese & Pasta Shop (815 Chestnut St., Manchester, 625-9544, angelaspastaandcheese.com) is taking orders for pork pies for $17.95. Order deadline is Saturday, Nov. 18. Pickups are Wednesday, Nov. 22, between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m.
• Concord Food Co-Op (24 S. Main St., Concord, 225-6840, concordfoodcoop.coop) is taking orders for quiches, which start at $16.99. Order deadline is Friday, Nov. 17, at noon. Pickups are Wednesday, Nov. 22, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
• Crosby Bakery (51 E. Pearl St., Nashua, 882-1851, crosbybakerynh.com) is offering a meat pie with ground beef and pork, and a red salmon pie. Both are $10.50 for 8-inches and are baked with mashed potatoes, onion and spices. The salmon pie also contains peas. Order deadline is Monday, Nov. 20, at 6 p.m. Pickups are Tuesday, Nov. 21, or Wednesday, Nov. 22.
• The Crust & Crumb Baking Co. (126 N. Main St., Concord, 219-0763, thecrustandcrumb.com) is offering a bacon, leek and cheddar quiche for $20, a spinach, marinated tomato and feta quiche for $20 and a pork pie with sweet potato, apple and rosemary for $22. Order deadline is Friday, Nov. 17. Pickups are Tuesday, Nov. 21, and Wednesday, Nov. 22, from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
• Harvey’s Bakery & Coffee Shop (376 Central Ave., Dover, 742-6029, harveysbakery.com) is taking orders for a Canadian pork pie and an all white meat chicken pie. Both come in 8-inch or 10-inch sizes. Order deadline is Monday, Nov. 20, at noon.
• Just Like Mom’s Pastries (353 Riverdale Road, Weare, 529-6667, justlikemomspastries.com) is taking orders for pork pies for $16.99. Order deadline is Saturday, Nov. 18. Pickups are Wednesday, Nov. 22.
• Klemm’s Bakery (29 Indian Rock Road, Windham, 437-8810, klemmsbakery.com) is taking orders for quiches, which come in both 8-inch and 10-inch sizes and can be baked with bacon, mushrooms, onion, broccoli, spinach, ham, sausage or asparagus. Orders are recommended to be placed by Tuesday, Nov. 21. Klemm’s is open from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Thanksgiving Day.
• The Red Arrow Diner (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 63 Union Square, Milford, 249-9222, redarrowdiner.com) is taking orders for pork pies, which are 10 inches in size and cost $14.99. Orders must be placed two days in advance of pickup.




The All Pie Thanksgiving
Plan a feast in a flaky crust

11/16/17
By Matt Ingersoll listings@hippopress.com



 Pie is the pièce de résistance of many a Thanksgiving meal. Whether it’s a traditional apple or pumpkin pie or something more innovative, like maple bourbon pecan or blueberry lemon, most people leave just enough room for a slice or two for dessert. 

This year, why not make pie the star of the whole meal? As local bakers and cooking experts suggest, pie doesn’t have to be just for dessert. In fact, savory pies as entrees — think pork pie or mince pies — can be bought ahead of time and cooked Thanksgiving Day. Appetizer-sized pies can be served before the meal or during it, as side dishes. And, of course, there are all kinds of dessert pies that you can make or buy to end things on a sweet note. And then leftover favorites like turkey, stuffing or squash can be thrown together for an after-the-holiday meal or two. 
Here’s what you need to know to make — or buy — your own all-pie meal.
 
The crust
When it comes to buying a premade crust or making your own, different ingredients and methods apply depending on what you’re baking, according to Alison Ladman, owner of The Crust & Crumb Baking Co. in Concord.
“With a cream pie, you’re probably doing a crumb crust, like a graham cracker,” she said. “With an apple pie, you don’t want to do that, though, because it would get soggy. And obviously you don’t want a sweet crust if you’re doing a savory pie.”
Ladman said if she is making a more flaky type of crust, she’ll often make sure to leave chunks and streaks of fat when rolling the dough, and there are different types of fat that can be used.
“Lard makes a lovely crust,” she said. “Butter also has great flavor, and shortening has a great texture.”
Local food blogger Susan Nye said that for dessert pies, she recommends using phyllo dough combined with lots of butter. 
“Thanksgiving has always meant apple or pumpkin [pies] in my house,” she said, “but I have to confess that I don’t like to be too traditional, which is why I use the phyllo dough.”
She also likes to bake a pumpkin cheesecake using gingersnap cookies.
If you want to take a more simplistic route, you can also buy or make a more traditional one-size-fits-all pie crust.
“We sell frozen crusts that we make here that you can use for pretty much anything,” Concord Food Co-Op bakery manager Jacob Maxwell said. “Pie crusts are so versatile that they can form almost any kind of thing into it.”
If you’re making your own version of this basic dough (see recipe in the box below), Maxwell said you can portion out the crusts and freeze them ahead of time to make preparation easier on Thanksgiving Day.
“[The crusts] keep really well in the freezer,” he said. “You can freeze them ahead of time and then bake the pie [once you add the filling] for Thanksgiving and there won’t be a loss of flavor.”
 
Starting small
Appetizers and side dishes can come in pie form, too.
“You could put stuffing in a pie if you want to,” Ladman said. “If you’re talking savory pies, something like a mushroom turnover filling would be nice, or you could do a meat filling or a butternut squash filling.” 
Ladman said you can either use smaller-sized pans or mold them by hand.
“Muffin tins make great little mini pies. You can also make them free-form, so that you just take like a round of dough and put the filling in the middle, and fold it over and seal it around the edges, sort of like a turnover.,” she said. “If you’re doing a foldover pie, then you want to make sure that the filling is not too runny, because it will seep out the side.”
Chef and cooking instructor Liz Barbour of The Creative Feast in Hollis said the crusts used to make these smaller pies can either be made from a basic pie dough recipe cut into big enough shapes to fill the muffin tin or pan you are using, or they can be bought.
“There are tiny premade appetizer crusts that are perfect for filling that you can use,” she said. “They usually don’t need to be cooked but they can be.”
Once you have your crust, the possibilities for adding your own appetizer pie fillings are endless.
 
Savory servings
Meat-based savory pies can be good substitutes for the main course of a Thanksgiving meal — there’s pork pie, or tourtiere, which can be made with either minced pork, veal or beef, as well as salmon pie, and quiches that can be baked with a variety of meats and vegetables. You can even have turkey pot pie if you’re not ready to give up that traditional turkey flavor but want to try something a little bit different.
Most pork pies are baked with ground pork and some kind of mashed or sweet potato, with other vegetables mixed in like celery and onions, according to Jerry Lipet of Angela’s Pasta & Cheese Shop in Manchester, which sells pork pies for Thanksgiving.
“It’s a popular item, especially for some people who don’t like turkey,” he said.
The Crust & Crumb Baking Co. also offers pork pies, as well as cottage pies, which are similar to shepherd’s pie.
“[Pork pie] is a French Canadian dish, and here in New Hampshire we have a high French Canadian population,” Ladman said. “So we make our own version of a pork pie.”
Crosby Bakery in Nashua offers a salmon pie, which is made with red salmon, mashed potatoes, peas, onion and spices, and a meat pie made with hamburger and pork.
Quiches, which have a base of eggs, milk and cream, can be baked with a variety of different meats and vegetables, according to Patti Klemm of Klemm’s Bakery in Windham, like ham, bacon or sausage.
“We … can do all kinds of toppings,” she said, “so we can do like ham, bacon or sausage for meat and we’ll do broccoli, spinach, tomato, mushroom and onion for the veggies.”
For those who still want turkey, you can take your turkey-roasting a step further and turn it into a pie. Russ Hart of Hart’s Turkey Farm in Meredith, which makes pies with turkey by itself and with vegetables, recommends roasting your turkey in the oven and then taking it off the bones by boiling it in a pot of water before you add it into your pie.
“What you could do is take whatever vegetables or seasonings you like and boil those too,” he said, “and then take the fat off the turkey and strain everything.”
Hart said vegetables that work well include carrots, boiled onions and peas, as well as a cream sauce as the base that is created with a turkey stock, flour and butter.
 
Sweet deal
Apple pie and pumpkin pie are often the most traditional flavors for a Thanksgiving meal, but there are so many other flavors and combinations you can experiment with.
“The key to really good pies is starting with really good ingredients,” Ladman said. “So we do a lot of cream pies where we make our own graham cracker crust and our own filling before topping them with real whipped cream. … We’ve also got a maple bourbon pecan pie. I think it’s just a little bit different and extravagant enough. It’s indulgent and it’s rich.”
Even if you’re sticking with something familiar like apple pie, local bakers and instructors say you can take steps to make yours even better, like carefully choosing which kinds of apples to bake your pie with, Barbour said.
“People will often use only one type of apple, but mixing different apples makes a huge difference [for pie-making],” she said. “Using tart apples is almost like using apple sauce or pieces of apples in the pie. … A tart apple like a Granny Smith with other apples like a Honeycrisp or a yellow Delicious … tends to break down a little bit more and makes for a great texture.”
She added that not peeling your apples before throwing them into the pie helps to keep the flavor intact as well.
Mike Cummings of Crosby Bakery in Nashua said chocolate cream pies are also hot sellers around the holidays for people with more of a sweet craving.
“It’s basically homemade chocolate pudding, and we pour it into a baked pie shell and top it with whipped cream,” he said. “It’s right up there with pumpkin and apple as far as how much we sell.”
Karen Car of Just Like Mom’s Pastries in Weare said popular pies for someone looking for something different include a maple bourbon walnut pie and a key lime pie.
If you’re looking for the best drink pairings, Ladman said a mulled cider or a spiced dessert wine is often a nice option to sip alongside dessert pie.
“I mean, milk is a natural pairing, but after a heavy Thanksgiving dinner, you might not want the added bulk of milk,” she said. “It depends on what flavor of pie as far as what you’re going to go with, but something like cider or mead or bourbon is lovely.”
As for toppings like ice cream or whipped cream, Car said one of the best things you can do is heat up your pie a little bit in the microwave before eating it.
“It makes a world of a difference because the ice cream melts on the pie crust faster,” she said.
 
The leftovers
If at the end of your Thanksgiving feast you find yourself with leftover turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes or squash, even those can often make good ingredients for a homemade turkey pot pie.
“You can use the stuffing for the crust at the bottom … and layer it with whatever you’ve got for meat and veggies at the top,” Car said. “It’s actually a great meal you can freeze and eat later, like in the middle of December when you’re running around doing Christmas shopping and don’t have time to make dinner.”
Other options can include more of a turkey shepherd’s pie, a recipe Barbour makes with leftover sweet or mashed potatoes and rutabagas.
“Rutabagas are great because they cook like mashed potatoes,” she said. “You just pop them into the oven and make them brown and you’re done.”
Maxwell said he finds the best turkey pot pies to be layered with turkey on the bottom followed by whatever root vegetables you have left over.
“You can really add just about anything you have or want,” he said. “You don’t need a crust to make a good shepherd’s pie, but if you happen to have it you can bake it in a cast iron pan and throw it in the oven.” 





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