Author: Fred Matuszewski

What to drink with your turkey and pie

Thanksgiving is just two weeks away! It seems like yesterday we were looking for cool white wines and enjoying spritzers in the back yard. The days may be getting cooler and shorter but that shouldn’t dampen our spirits. The holiday season begins with Thanksgiving, a time to get together with family and friends to celebrate and give thanks for our health and bounty. In addition to high school football games, the day is focused on “the big meal,” which may last several hours. The food is hearty and certainly diverse, starting with appetizers, moving on to the main meal of roast turkey with multiple side dishes, ending in what may seem like a dozen different pies.

The Thanksgiving menu can be challenging when it comes to pairing the right wine to go with each course. A familiar response to this question is, “a white wine, of course.” That response covers a lot of territory! Many will pick a white sparkling wine, while others may opt for a light dry rosé. A chardonnay is often suggested, as the slight creaminess pairs well with roast turkey. Another option is a pinot noir. This red may have bright berry notes to it. It will not overpower the turkey while complementing the wide range of side dishes.

For this Thanksgiving I have selected a California chardonnay and two French wines, one from the Loire River valley, the other from the northern reaches of Beaujolais.

Our first wine, the 2016 Stuhlmuller Vineyards Estate Chardonnay (originally priced at $29.99, and reduced to $12.49 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is a perfect chardonnay to pair with the main course. Coming from the southwestern corner of the Alexander Valley, the vineyard of Roger and Carmen Stuhlmuller was planted in the 1970s with top-quality vines. The slight rise above the banks of the Russian River of gravel, clay and volcanic soils, along with cool nighttime temperatures, produces fruit that is rich with complex flavors and good acidity. With a color of golden straw and a nose of fresh pear and apple, it develops on the palate with notes of spicy pear and nectarine, along with some minerality from the soils and a touch of the oak from barrel aging. The finish is long and complex with a slight touch of acidity, perfect for pairing to the main course.

Our second wine, the 2017 Château de Fesles Chenin Sec (originally priced at $59.99, and reduced to $21.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), comes from the Anjou region of the Loire River Valley of France. This wine is a slight departure from the usual recommendations for the Thanksgiving feast. The color is straw that somehow has a sparkle even though it is a still wine. It has a floral nose of citric blossoms that transform to the palate with dried fruit, honey and toasted bread. This is a wine that can pair with appetizers of cheese or smoked salmon or the creaminess of a New England Clam Chowder. While it’s hardly mainstream, if enough of us try it and ask for it, the State may stock more of this Anjou varietal.

Our third wine, the 2018 Domaine Laurent Gauthier Chiroubles Chatenay Vieilles Vignes (originally priced at $41.99, and reduced to $16.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), comes from the northern edge of the Beaujolais region of France. This wine is produced from gamay noir grapes just as Beaujolais is, but coming from the northern edge of the region the wine benefits from the similar terroir, its soils and climate, as the rich red burgundies we all love. The color is a rich garnet, with purple tints. The nose is floral, with notes of dark cherry, along with some minerality generated by the soils of the region. The palate is light, but satisfying with plenty of fruit, with a long finish. This is a welcome alternative to a familiar pinot noir!

For this Thanksgiving, offer your family and friends some alternative wines, something new to explore. These wines are but a sampling of the many options to expand our experiences with wine and food.

Featured photo: Courtesy Photo.

Add a fire pit and you have a party

The color of fall is all about us. The sun is bright and the sky is blue. This weather welcomes fall sports and backyard gatherings and tailgating. Yes, it is cool, and sometimes a bit blustery, but we still welcome the opportunity to relax for an afternoon or evening with friends and great barbecue fare paired to robust wines.

This last week we hosted a very small group of friends in our backyard to relax and exchange stories of happenings since our last get-together a month ago. We told them all to dress warmly as we will gather around the table, lit by an old Coleman propane camping light, adjacent to the fire pit. It was great.

So what is an appropriate menu for a fall backyard party? Something hearty like barbecued ribs with cornbread, along with sides of vegetable salads and pasta. Our recipe for ribs is a variation on the classic. In addition to the ketchup, brown sugar and Worcestershire sauce, we add ginger and lemon for a clean, tart flavor that is softened with the addition of orange juice. Our cornbread comes from a recipe of Blanchard’s Caribbean Cornbread a close friend found online. It is incredibly rich with butter, corn and cheese. This fare goes well beyond a summer barbecue menu. It is hearty and needs wines that will stand up to it: zinfandels and syrahs.

Our first wine is the 7 Deadly Zins, a 2017 old-vine vintage from Lodi, available at the New Hampshire Wine & Liquor Stores (originally priced at $18.99, reduced to $13.99). This wine is blended from seven Old Vine zinfandels. According to their website, the wine “was born from a Catholic school upbringing and the winemaker’s lust for a hedonistically seductive wine.” Seven specific vineyards were chosen for this wine, all located in the Lodi AVA (American Viticultural Area). The zinfandel grapes are blended with a touch of petite syrah, then aged in American oak for 11 months. The color is dark red to purple, with lots of rich, red berry fruit to the nose. The oak imparts a touch of leather or tannins to the tongue with layers of plum, currants and toffee, all ending in a long slightly spicy finish.

Lodi is in the northern reaches of the San Joaquin Valley, east of San Francisco. The AVA, of more than 500,000 acres, of which more than 100,000 acres are planted, is best known for its old vine zinfandel. However, with its warm “Mediterranean-like” climate of hot days and cool nights, Lodi also produces large quantities of merlot, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc.

Our second wine comes from “across the pond” in the Rhône River Valley of France. Jean-Luc Colombo 2016 Terres Brulées Cornas Syrah (available at the New Hampshire Wine & Liquor Stores, originally priced at $57.99, reduced to $29.99) has been given a rating of 95 points by Wine Enthusiast and 92 points by Wine Spectator. This is a wine that all but asks to be picked up now and cellared, because it will continue to improve for another five or more years. The color is a thick ruby black with purple hints. To the nose there is plenty of fruit that continues to the tongue with ripe cassis, or black currant, and black cherry notes. Just as with the nose, to the tongue the fruit is intense, a bit of vanilla, along with moderate tannins. This wine will age well into the future.

The winemaker team of Jean-Luc and Anne Colombo have a background in pharmaceutical science and a passion for the syrah grape. The wine is made from vines that are over 30 years old from 20 different vineyards. Aged for 21 months in oak barrels, the wine is fined with egg whites and bottled unfiltered.

So don’t put the yard furniture away just yet. We still have sunny days and plenty of opportunity to get together with family and friends to enjoy the cooler weather with hearty fare paired to rich, hearty wines. Grab a blanket and light that fire pit to enjoy the moment into the evening.

Featured photo: Photo by Fred Matuszewski.

There’s something about fall ball

“Are you OK?” my wife asked.

I was gripping — white-knuckling — our living room coffee table as the Red Sox clung to a slim lead in the eighth inning of Game 4 of the division round of the Major League Baseball playoffs.

I was not OK. While I’ve increasingly become a fair-weather Red Sox fan as the game has evolved to be (too) heavily focused on analytics, rather than the good old-fashioned eye test, this was still the playoffs and this was still the Red Sox.

I took a pretty hefty swallow of my beer, in this case a Patina Pale Ale by Austin Street Brewery in Portland, Maine, and took a deep breath. It didn’t help, as the Sox quickly gave up three straight hits to allow the Tampa Bay Rays to tie the game. By now you know the Sox ended up winning so all’s well that ends well. But you get it. Things were dicey in the moment.

There is something about the flow of a baseball game that lends itself to drinking. It’s actually not that complicated. In addition to inning breaks, there’s a little mini break after each pitch that begs for a sip of beer.

If you do like baseball, fair-weather fan or not, there is something truly special about October baseball. It is so intense. The game hangs in the balance on every pitch. Beer does help with calming the nerves for overly intense viewers like myself.

Now that said, in a close playoff game, you’re not going to be paying close attention to your beer. I don’t think pulling out the most coveted can or bottle in your beer fridge is a great move in the middle of the game — you’re just not going to be able to appreciate it as much as you should because your attention is going to be on the game. (Save it for the post-game celebration.)

That’s not to say I think you should drink something lousy either. I’m just suggesting you choose something you don’t have to think about as much.

Super-hoppy beers are great but they tend to be high in alcohol and I feel the need to remind you that baseball games can run very, very long. The team needs you there for the ninth inning.

Big stouts and porters can be a nice choice but I wouldn’t bother with overly complex brews — again, you’re just not going to be able to take the time to pay attention to layers of complexity.

For game time, I’m looking for something simple. I’m talking Pilsners, pale ales and dry stouts. Maybe toss in an amber ale or something along those lines. I still want the beer to taste good but I don’t want to contemplate its nuances.

Here are three New Hampshire beers that I think pair quite well with October baseball.

Auburn American Red Ale by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. (Merrimack)

The pour on this is quite dark but don’t let that fool you: This is about as sessionable a beer as they come. The brewery describes it as “smooth, crisp and satisfying” and I can’t do better than that.

Hank’s Pale Ale by Throwback Brewery (North Hampton)

This has a nice backbone of grapefruit in a very crisp and dry package. You’ll want to have a couple of these, regardless of how the game is going.

Dirty Blonde Ale by Portsmouth Brewery (Portsmouth)

Take a sip, don’t think about it and repeat. This light-bodied ale is a perfect choice when you just want a beer that tastes like a beer.

What’s in My Fridge
Pale Ale by Navigation Brewing Co. (Lowell, Mass.)
First, we should talk about the fact that I love that this brewery just left the name as “Pale Ale.” I love the simplicity. I enjoyed the beer right in its taproom, which is a neat spot in an old mill building. The beer was fresh and clean and featured some light grapefruit notes — very sessionable. Cheers!

Featured photo: Beer and Red Sox playoff baseball. Courtesy photo.

This California region’s wines deserve a closer look

When one thinks of American wines, what first come to mind are the Napa and Sonoma valleys. While they produce exceptional wines, consideration should also be given to the Santa Lucia Highlands.

Proclaimed as its own American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1991, this is an area of east-facing terraces of the Santa Lucia Mountain range, to the south of the breezy Monterey Bay. An area approximately 18 miles long and 1 to 2 miles wide, the 22,000 acres of the AVA are planted in 6,400 acres to primarily pinot noir and chardonnay grapes, the balance of the AVA being an unplantable mountainside.

Cloudy mornings, midday sunshine with strong winds, and evening fog create a cool climate, allowing for a long growing season, resulting in gentle ripening that ensures intense flavors with balanced acidity in the grapes.

What better place to sample some of the best chardonnays and pinot noirs than to check out Morgan Winery’s production of Santa Lucia Highlands wines? While I hardly need an excuse to enjoy two of my favorite varietals, the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet’s current sale of 15 percent off 12 or more bottles of chardonnay and pinot noir (running through Oct. 31) is certainly an incentive to seriously look them over.

Dan Morgan Lee came from a small town in California’s Central Valley. He had prepared initially for the study of veterinary medicine at the University of California, Davis, but while at college he discovered enology (the study of wines) and enrolled in the graduate program. Upon graduation in 1978 he became a winemaker at Jekel Winery in Monterey County. In 1982 Dan and his wife, Donna, opened the doors of Morgan Winery. Initially producing wines from purchased grapes, in 1996 Dan and Donna realized their dream by purchasing their own vineyard, named the “Double L” for their Double Luck twin daughters. Today Morgan Winery is known to produce consistent award-winning wines.

Our first wine, the 2019 Morgan Metallico Un-oaked Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay (originally priced at $18.99, reduced to $16.99), is light and bright and a great way to start this great trilogy of finely crafted wines. This is chardonnay in its purest form, unadorned by oak. The grapes are primarily sourced from Morgan’s “Double L” and mixed with grapes from three other vineyards. The grapes are cold tank fermented and not allowed to go through a secondary malolactic fermentation, thus keeping the bright crispness of pineapple and vanilla to the nose, with pear and some mild lemon citric flavors, producing a long finish to the tongue. This bright acidity is perfect for pairing with shellfish and light fare.

Our second wine, the 2018 Morgan Highland Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay (originally priced at $23.99, reduced to $20.99) focuses on classic crème brûlée, walnuts and butterscotch. The grapes for this cuvée come from the Double L vineyard and two of its neighbors. After pressing, the grapes were barrel fermented in 26 percent new French oak, with partial malolactic fermentation imparting a wonderful creamy richness, with a slight acidity to the tongue. To the nose the wine has slight citric notes, countered by caramel. The creaminess to the tongue is enhanced by apple and pear. This is a wine that is perfectly matched to cream-sauced pasta or pork.

Our third wine, the 2018 Morgan Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir (originally priced at $31.99, reduced to $27.99), portrays the finesse of a great pinot noir with its aromas of blackberries and herbs. The grapes for this wine come from the original pinot plantings of the “Double L” estate, joined by grapes of neighboring vineyards. To the tongue the red and black berry fruit is complemented by dark plum and a bit of leather from the nine-month aging in toasted French oak barrels, of which 35 percent are new. This is a wine that can span a pairing of grilled chicken or salmon to beef or lamb.

These wines are inventoried throughout the state stores, waiting to be appreciated.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Does reusing spirit barrels add something to wines?

Natural and minimalist winemaking methods have been prominent in the news these past several years but there is another trend surfacing: bourbon (and other spirits) barrel-aged wine.

Production has boomed since its modern re-introduction in 2014 by Fetzer Vineyards, which produced a zinfandel that was aged in recycled bourbon barrels. Distillers have aged spirits in bourbon barrels, but a little-known fact is that aging wine in recycled whiskey barrels has a storied past.

The Beringer brothers arrived in Napa in 1869 to work at Charles Krug, one of the first wineries in Napa Valley. In 1876 they had their first pressing of their own grapes, and to age their wines they reused whiskey barrels. Long on ambition but short on cash, they thought it made good financial sense and they discovered it added a certain complexity to the wine. Fast forward, we have a whole generation of millennials intent on exploring and expanding the production of bourbon and other spirits, and the marketplace for mainstream and small-batch distilleries.

In addition to bourbon barrel-aged cabernet sauvignons, we have other red varietals now aged in spirit barrels, and the trend has extended to tequila barrel-aged sauvignon blancs. But how does spirit barrel aging influence the structure and taste of the wine? Does it really impact the wine? Bourbon barrels are slightly taller and skinnier than standard oak barriques, and thus increase the wine-to-wood ratio. Also, bourbon barrels are required to be made from new, heavily toasted American oak. Since they are used just once, there is an abundance of flavor left in the wood. These barrels impart the character of whatever was previously in them, so, with bourbon barrels, you should expect that smooth sweetness and vanilla and caramel essence of the bourbon in your wine.

Our first wine is the Beringer Bros. 2019 Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $17.99). The color is intensely purple-red and “thick.” To the nose are scents of ripe black cherries and chocolate. To the tongue, the black cherries remain, albeit reduced, and there are persistent tannins. I don’t know if the “flattened fruit” is the product of the grapes or the fact the wine was aged for six months in bourbon barrels. This is unquestionably a wine to be paired with grilled beef or pasta with a tomato sauce. It will balance but not overpower your entrée, with an alcoholic content of 14.5 percent.

Our second wine, a Robert Montavi 2019 Private Selection Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $10.95, reduced from $15.99), is produced a bit differently. The grapes grown in Mondavi’s coastal vineyards are aged in a mix of new and used bourbon barrels. Mondavi reports the new barrels give the wine its undertone of toasted oak, while the used barrels, from a Kentucky distillery, impart vanilla and dried herbs. This blending of barrels sets this wine aside from other cabernets. The color is dark purple-red, fading to a rose-colored ring. To the nose, there are blackberries and chocolate. To the tongue, the berries are joined with vanilla, caramel and some mocha. The tannins are much softer than in the Beringer tasting. With an alcoholic content of 14.5 percent, this is a wine to be paired with grilled meats, including marinated chicken.

Our third wine, the 1924 Limited Edition Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, by Gnarly Head Wines (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $11.99, reduced from $16.99), heralds from Lodi in California’s Central Valley. With an alcoholic content of 15 percent, this is a wine that needs decanting and can be paired with game, venison or lamb. The color is dark, dark purple and the nose is of blackberries and leather. To the tongue there is an abundance of dark berry fruit, coupled with strong tannins. A dryness permeates the finish.

Tim McKirdy, staff writer at VinePair, noted in an article that one critic states that spirits-barrel aging is a “marketing gimmick” and it’s a great way to “mask the flaws of sub-standard fruit.” In McKirdy’s referencing the tweet, the critic further states, “It’s like putting lipstick on a pig. It’s still a pig!”

On the other hand, other critics allude to the “blurring” of lines; this method is attracting beer and spirits drinkers to pair their food with spirits-barrel aged wine. I say, you be the judge!

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Eye-catching packaging, tasty wines

Traditionally grapes were picked, vinified, sometimes aged, and then bottled and sealed with a cork and foil or wax. The bottles were finished with simple labels identifying the vineyard or blender, grape varietals and vintage. The bottles were loaded into cardboard boxes or wooden crates and sent off to distributors for sale.

While the bulk of the wine industry still operates this way, the marketing of wine has evolved to appeal to a larger and younger market. There was a huge outcry when vintners started to put screw caps on bottles. There were claims that the screw tops would fail; they would not keep the wine from spoiling. Fact is that screw tops have replaced corks on many wines. Next came “box wine” — the wine that can be loaded onto the shelf of a refrigerator and tapped when one wants a glass of chardonnay. Then came “wine in a can.” A can is a perfect way to keep a carbonated beverage; why not make that beverage a wine?

The packaging and marketing of wine has become an industry unto itself. Several years ago, some vineyards commissioned artists to create labels for them. The label of the 2019 Navigator Sauvignon Blanc of Napa Valley (originally priced at $32.99, reduced to $14.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) is a fine example of graphic artistry. The front label is very simple — just the wine’s name. The back of the bottle has an array of constellations, printed in white, with a sailing ship, printed in black, above blue scrolling ocean waves. This entire image is meant to be viewed through the bottle, magnified by the straw-colored wine. What a marvelous idea! The wine has a slight fruit nose, along with herbal lavender. To the mouth it is citric — a favoring lemongrass. A perfect wine to pair with seafood.

Another direction in marketing is to appeal to basic pleasures. The label of the 2018 Michael David Winery Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel (originally priced at $15.99, reduced to $12.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) is an example of simplicity. The label refers to “Zinfandel grapes sustainably farmed in Lodi, California.” Modestly priced and presented, this wine is bold. The dark purple, opaque color and fruit-laden nose lead to notes of black raspberry, vanilla, some cinnamon and a touch of pepper. This wine is designed and marketed for a “kick-back” barbecue with friends.

Australian Thomas Angove invented boxed wine in 1965. Improved upon in 1967, with the creation of an air-tight tap welded to the plastic bag, his invention became salable. The science behind this packaging is simple; the wine is removed from the bag without adding air, thus removing the potential for oxidation of the remaining wine. The original large box containers have evolved into single-serve sizes. The Woodbridge Limited Edition Mondavi California Chardonnay (originally priced at $4.99, reduced to $3.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) is packaged in 500 ml boxes. This results in three and a half 5-ounce servings. The packaging notes this has been proclaimed the “Official Wine of Major League Baseball.” The color is the classic gold color of a California chardonnay, with aromas of apple and pear. The nose carries through to the tongue with a toasty finish, perfect for pairing with roast chicken, eaten on a picnic.

Wine in a can? Why not? Beer has been put into cans since the mid-’30s! The House Wine Limited Edition Rosé Bubbles, 3.75 ml (originally priced at $5.99, reduced to $4.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), was conceived in 2004 by ex-rock ’n’ roll manager and wine maker Charles Smith in Walla Walla, Washington. It is marketed as a “serious wine made by not so serious people.” The wine has a pale pink color and aromas of fresh berries with lively citric notes on the tongue. This is a light wine that can be paired with soft cheeses or enjoyed by itself on a warm afternoon.

19 Crimes 2019 Red Wine (priced at $11.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) appears at first to be a novelty. Each bottle in the miniature four-pack is 187 ml, or a six-ounce serving. Produced in Australia by Treasury Wine Estates, it is a blend of mostly shiraz, with traces of other grapes. This is a bold red wine with a dark red color, dark cherries to the nose carrying through to the tongue, with firm tannins on the mid-palate. The packaging is novel, as it identifies the 19 crimes punishable by transportation from the U.K. to 19th-century Australia. Several criminals and their crimes are identified on the packaging!

The packaging and marketing of wine have indeed evolved with our changing world of marketing. Try some of these alternatives.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.