Paris Between the Wars

  • 3/4 ounce Campari
  • 3/4 ounce scotch, or maybe Buchanan’s Pineapple Drink (see below)
  • 1/2 ounce simple syrup
  • 1/2 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 ounce super-sparkling wine, like prosecco, to top

On the face of it, the recipe is fairly daunting.

For one thing, a lot of scotch drinkers would look at the whole idea of putting Scotch whisky in a cocktail as pretty blasphemous to begin with. Scotch is supposed to stand on its own – maybe with ice. That would be like using, I don’t know, Champagne in a cocktail.

You mean, like a Champagne Cocktail?

Oh, right.

But equal parts scotch and Campari? The bitter, red, Italian liqueur? That seems like a lot of intensity in one place. Sure, there’s simple syrup and lemon juice to drag the mixture back to civilization, but still.

On the other hand, you’ve been looking for something a little outside your comfort zone, and this sounds like it would be far enough outside it to send it a vacation postcard.

So you drop a handful of ice into a mixing glass and add everything but the bubbly. You break out your special long-handled spoon and mix and chill it thoroughly, then strain it into a coupe glass. You top it with an ounce of prosecco.

Wow, that is red. Well, nothing ventured, nothing gained. “To your very good health.”

Yeah, that’s a choice, right there. It is, as expected, PDB (Pretty Damn Bitter), but nuanced, with a complexity under the bitterness. You can see how this might become somebody’s go-to drink. But golly, that bitterness sure goes on and on, doesn’t it?

So, let’s try this: Set it down on the counter. We can come back to it; it’s not going anywhere. Let’s try swapping out the scotch for something scotch-adjacent. Buchanan’s Pineapple Drink is made from scotch, with a few tropical ingredients added in. Maybe, without the scotch and the Campari ramming into each other like big-horn sheep, this will be a little less bracing.

Let’s try that again.

**Sounds of rinsing mixing glass, the clatter of fresh ice, and a hum of concentration as new Campari, Buchanan’s, lemon juice and simple syrup are poured. The rattle of everything being stirred, the strained. The fizz of the sparkling wine.**

Hmm. That looks very much the same as the first one. Taking a tentative sip.

The first thing you notice is the fizziness on your tongue from the prosecco. And then, yes, this is a little sweeter, slightly fruitier. Less, “I’d like to speak to your manager!” It’s still bitter and red, though. There’s still some complexity there.

And yet.

The first version sits on the counter where you left it, openly mocking you. “Oh, good! I hope you have fun with Little Miss Country Club Over There! Go on! You were made for each other!”

(Of course, it’s bitter. It’s half Campari.)

Sometimes you want a drink that challenges you. On the other hand, sometimes you just want a drink.

And somewhere, a devoted scotch drinker stokes their sense of righteous indignation that you’d put scotch in a cocktail in the first place.

Featured photo. Photo by John Fladd.

Warm spices

Egyptian Food Festival in Nashua

For the past nine years the St. Mary and Archangel Michael Coptic Orthodox Church in Nashua has opened its doors to welcome the community to an Egyptian Food Festival.

“[The Festival] has been growing steadily since we started,” said Kyrillos Gobran, the church’s priest. “It started very small and it started to grow year after year. People would come to try a taste of Egypt. It’s a good family-oriented atmosphere, very safe. People come and enjoy it and look forward to this event year over year.”

Because many cultures around the Mediterranean Sea have similar food traditions, people familiar with Greek cooking will recognize many of the dishes at this Egyptian Festival, Gobran said.

“We usually have like traditional types of food,” he said, “like beef kebab, lamb kebab, chicken kebab [and] kofta. We have shawarma, of course — beef and chicken. We have vegetarian food as well — falafel, and there is an Egyptian famous vegetarian food called kosheri, which has lentils, rice and pasta. And there is fried onion on top, with chickpeas, and a marinated red sauce on top. We have desserts, music, a bazaar as well. We have a church tour where we tell people who we are. Of course, we have a kids’ corner, ice cream, cotton candy, popcorn and different types of things. It will make it very friendly and family-friendly to everyone.”

Gobran said a major difference between Egyptian dishes and similar ones from other countries comes from the way the ingredients are used and the spices they are cooked with.

“Our marination is a little bit different,” he said, “especially for the meat. The falafel itself, whether the base is beans or chickpeas, or peas by itself — it all depends on where was the origin of it and … what’s added to the taste of it plus the marination.”

Egyptian cooking makes use of “warm” spices in savory foods that many Europeans and Americans associate with sweets, Gobran said. “Usually the norm is salt and pepper, but we have a [mixture] with something like seven types of spices, like nutmeg and cinnamon. There’s so many different types of things that we use in there to give it that flavor.”

While one goal of the Food Festival is to introduce Egyptian food and culture to the larger community, Gobran said, for Egyptians like him the sounds and smells are a reminder of home. “One of the things I personally love,” he said, “is the grill. That’s one of my favorites, even in my own home. I usually do a lot of [grilling] just because it brings that memory back of a little taste of Egypt.” He said that in Egyptian culture, both men and women are encouraged to cook. “If [men] like it, if they enjoy it, absolutely, you will find both genders most of the time.” He said that at his church’s festival men tend to be around the flames and smoke of the grill. “For us, the women serve most of the food.” The men, he said, take the flame grilling very seriously.

The Festival will take place at the church, Gobran said. “There are no admission fees. Everybody is welcomed and we are going to be there rain or shine. There is a huge tent that nobody can miss. And if they miss the tent, they won’t miss the smell.”

The 9th Annual Egyptian Food Festival
Where: St. Mary and Archangel Michael Coptic Orthodox Church, 39 Chandler St., Nashua, stmarycoptsnh.org
When: Friday, Sept. 11, from 4 to 9 p.m., Saturday, Sept. 12, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday, Sept. 13, from noon to 6 p.m. Admission is free.

Featured photo: Egyptian Food Festival. Courtesy photo.

Food, beer and games on the beach

Sending off summer with the Hampton Beach Seafood Festival

2026 marks the 37th year the Hampton Area Chamber of Commerce has held the Hampton Beach Seafood Festival. John Nyhan, the president of the Chamber, said that at this point the Festival is an institution.

“It’s an institution, a tradition,” he said. “[We’re] carrying forward for another year, the largest seafood festival in all of New England. Thirty-seven years ago, the Seafood Festival was a very small group of business owners from Hampton Beach [who] decided that they wanted to extend the summer months. So they all got together and created what we now know as the first Seafood Festival, made up of, oh, maybe 20, 25 food vendors. They held it at the state park’s South Beach area, but then soon after that, it got to be big and they wanted to expand not only providing food but entertainment, craft, and special events. So they moved the Seafood Festival to Ocean Boulevard, which is where we have it today, where we take over Ocean Boulevard from H Street all the way up to the Ashworth Hotel. And so this year we have over 40 food booths, we have over 70 crafters selling their products and services, we have live entertainment from noontime on Friday … until six o’clock on Sunday. We’re also known for having the largest beer festival on on a beach in all of New England.”

Each day of the Festival will have special events, Nyhan said.

“We have a food tasting contest on Friday afternoon, Nyhan said. “What we do every year is we give the opportunity for our food vendors to select from six different items what they would like to compete. So, for example there might be four vendors that do some type of chowders. Then we have nine judges [who] judge all the chowders and pick the first-place chowder winner. We do that in six categories. It’s a lot of fun, and they get a ribbon and then they put the ribbon on their food booth during the weekend to show that they have the best chowder or the best lobster roll or the best whatever.”

“We have a special 9/11 event Friday night,” Nyhan continued “which will consist of a number of young men and women [who] have now enlisted into the armed services. They will be all sworn in on a special swearing-in ceremony at 6 o’clock on Friday.”

“And then come Saturday,” Nyhan said, “we have a cornhole contest that’s already been sold out that takes place down at the Beer Tent area during the day. And then we have great fireworks at 8:30 at night.”

On Sunday, Nyhan said, there will be a 5K road race starting at 6 a.m.

“Then in the afternoon at 2 o’clock we have our traditional lobster roll-eating contest, where this year we have contestants competing for the championship.” According to the Festival’s webpage, “Eight contestants take the Seashell Stage Sunday afternoon with one goal: eat as many lobster rolls as possible in 10 minutes.”

Because the Ocean Boulevard area is crowded with seafood and seafood fans for the three days, Nyhan said, the organizers have gotten very good at arranging shuttles from off-site parking areas.

“We have eight, nine different parking lots that we use throughout the entire weekend,” he said. “We are providing shuttle service … each day, starting on Friday at noon and going all the way to 7 o’clock on Sunday. The drivers actually work as volunteers; they don’t get paid. And so it’s a great local community partnership. To be honest with you, if we didn’t have a bus it would be very difficult to have the seafood festival because we would not be able to park 60,000 to 80,000 people along the beach.”

Hampton Beach Seafood Festival
Where: along Oceanside Boulevard in Hampton Beach
When: Friday, Sept. 11, from noon to 9 p.m.; Saturday, Sept. 12, from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday, Sept. 13, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tickets are $17.85 per person per day, or $33.76 for the full three-day festival.
More: seafoodfestivalnh.com

Featured photo: Lobster dinner at Hampton Beach Seafood Festival. Courtesy photos.

The Weekly Dish 26/09/10

Keep your hands and feet away from his mouth: According to an Aug. 26 press release from the New Hampshire Fisher Cats, “18-time Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Champion Joey Chestnut is headed to Delta Dental Stadium for New Hampshire’s game against the Harrisburg Senators on Thursday, Sept. 10. Fans can purchase a limited quantity of VIP tickets to the meet and greet with Joey Chestnut. VIP tickets start at $75 and include a guaranteed meet and greet with Chestnut, plus a Puritan Backroom chicken tender basket with fries and a 16 oz soda at the game.” Visit gofevo.com/event/Joeychestnutpuritan.

Bourbon in the Alley: Arts Alley (20 S. Main St., Concord, 406-5666, artsalleyconcordnh.com) will host The Angel’s Share: A Bourbon Tasting Experience on Friday, Sept. 11, from 5 to 8 p.m. Discover standout bourbons from featured distilleries and distributors while enjoying live music, outdoor entertainment and more. General admission tickets are $50, and VIP tickets are $80, through the Arts Alley website.

Coffee Liqueur dinner party: Join Flag Hill Distillery and Winery (297 N. River Road, Lee, 659-2949, flaghill.com) Friday, Sept. 11, from 6 to 9 p.m. for a special dinner celebrating the release of its newest spirit, Coffee Liqueur. You’ll have the chance to mingle with fellow wine and spirit enthusiasts as well as meet the distillers who crafted these wines and spirits; sip coffee-inspired cocktails, lounge in vintage seating, have your cards read by Flag Hill’s tarot card reader and savor coffee-inspired dinner bites while enjoying live music. Tickets are $60.43 through the Flag Hill website.

Able Ebenezer Beer Dinner: Thursday, Sept. 10, from 6 to 9 p.m. The Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will host an evening celebrating New Hampshire craft beer and exceptional cuisine, the Able Ebenezer Beer Dinner. There will be a cocktail reception with hors d’oeuvres, and a four-course dinner, with each course paired with beers from Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. Tickets are $95++ per person and must be purchased in advance through the BVI website.

Scales and suds: There will be a Reptile Pop-Up at Feathered Friend Brewing (231 S. Main St., Concord, 715-2347, featheredfriendbrewing.com) Sunday, Sept. 13, from 1 to 3 p.m. Jonesy’s Reptiles will be on hand for a petting zoo pop-up experience. Check out all the reptiles you’ve always wanted to hold, touch or learn about. This event is free. Register online at the Feather Friend website.

Crime Scene Investigation with beer: On Sunday, Sept. 13, from 4 to 5:30 p.m., To Share Brewing (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) will host an evening of fingerprinting, just like real CSI — learn how to dust for prints, analyze patterns, and solve mysteries like a real detective while enjoying a pint of To Share’s finest brews. The cost is $33.85.

Cookbook Club: The Cookbook Club at the Whipple Free Library (67 Mont Vernon Road, New Boston, 487-3391, whipplefreelibrary.org) will meet Wednesday, Sept. 16, from 6 to 7:30 p.m. This month the Club will discuss and sample dishes from My Kitchen Year by Ruth Reichl. Copies of the cookbook are available for checkout at the Circulation Desk. After perusing the book, register online with the recipe you plan to bring.

Fresh Corn Muffins

  • 1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour
  • 3 teaspoons (= 1 Tablespoon) baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ cup (1/2 stick) butter
  • ¼ cup (50 g) sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 cup (227 g) milk
  • 4 cups (112 g) cornflakes
  • 1 cup (160 g) fresh corn kernels – 2 to 3 ears
  • 1 to 2 jalapeño peppers, finely chopped

OK, let’s talk about the jalapeños.

Yes, this is New England, and traditionally people here are nervous about spiciness. The odds are someone in your family is uncomfortable with the idea of putting salt and pepper on their sweet corn. But in the grand scheme of things, let’s face it, a jalapeño is not a life-changingly hot pepper. On top of that, the jalapeños in our supermarkets are especially mild.

Cut one of the peppers in half, then cut a tiny sliver from its side and taste it.

Not terrible, right?

It is? OK, feel free to use a small handful of diced bell pepper instead. It’s better to make a toned-down version of these muffins than to live in fear. (The rest of you, please use the jalapeños.)

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line 12 muffin tins with paper wrappers.

In a small bowl, mix the dry ingredients — the flour, baking powder, and salt. (Sugar behaves strangely and is, for whatever reason, considered a wet ingredient. Even though it’s dry. Because, reasons.)

With your electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar together, then beat in the egg. Add the milk and cornflakes, and mix it for another minute or so. Spoon in the dry ingredients, and mix until it all just barely comes together.

With a large spoon or a silicone spatula, stir in the fresh corn and jalapeños.

Divide the batter between the 12 muffin cups, then bake for 25 minutes. Let them cool on the counter in the muffin pan for a few minutes. I’m always a little nervous about “What if these are done on the outside but gloppy in the middle?” Something called carry-over heat will take care of that.

Featured photo. Photo by John Fladd.

From hobby to homestead bakery

Conquered Bread gets creative

The thing about black sesame tomato bread, Alex Brown explained, is that you can’t find it just anywhere.

“To start with, I mill my own flour,” he said. “I mill some durum wheat that I scored in Cambridge, Massachusetts, and some spelt that was grown in western Mass. Then I use tomatoes from a farm up here in Warner called Kearsarge Gore, and they sell at the Concord Farmers Market. Anyway, I’ve gotten pretty friendly with the farmers there, so they gave me a bunch of really fresh tomatoes that couldn’t be sold — just ugly stuff that had been nicked and bumped. So I threw all of those on my grill with a wood fire and I fire-roasted them and simmered them down into a puree, so they were nice and smooth. That ended up being something like 25 percent of the hydration in this bread, and it was finished off with black sesame. I do a lot of that kind of stuff.”

Brown is the baker and owner of Conquered Bread, a from-home bakery in Concord. He said that his bakery started as a hobby that got out of control.

“I’ve been baking bread as a hobby for several years even before Covid,” he said. “But it certainly accelerated during the pandemic, and I got in the habit of bringing bread to friends and coworkers.” Brown said that although people encouraged him to start selling his bread, he wasn’t interested in selling his bread as much as he was in baking it. “But then, a couple of years ago, a colleague suggested the idea of doing like a CSA, where customers would buy a share, kind of a subscription, and pick up what I baked.”

“My original idea was to bake 12 loaves of bread a week and sell it to friends and neighbors. I have pickups and you can sign up for them and pay for the month in advance. But by October of 2024 I had sold out all of my spots through the following February, and at that point I was like, ‘Oh, I’m really sort of onto something here.’ So I bought an oven that’s small by brick and mortar bakery standards but can fit nine to 12 loaves at a time. So now I bake probably close to something like 90 loaves a week”

Brown said most of his bread is fairly conventional, but working at the scale he does gives him some freedom for experimentation.

“I’ve got a few sort of standard rotating loaves and then at least one week of every month,” he said, “sometimes two, I do a special, um, something that’s like baker’s choice — a surprise bread that I develop. I try to be pretty creative. I usually develop recipes around local ingredients that are available”

One of the breads that Brown has been working on for the fall, for instance, he said, will probably combine olives and fresh herbs.

“One of the farms that I’m in touch with grew a bunch of caraway and they’re going to give me some fresh caraway — the herb part of it, not the seed — and so I was thinking about doing a buckwheat hearth bread with caraway. I’ve been sitting on the idea of doing something like a Scandinavian rye. Because rye flour doesn’t have much gluten, in Europe it comes in a square loaf. It’s baked like that because it can’t sit up and support itself because there’s no gluten. So it has to be baked in a pan. And Scandinavian rye is usually baked with seeds and some other whole grains. They’re dense and super-nutritious.”

“The last thing that I’ve been thinking of,” Brown said, “I don’t know if I’ll be able to squeeze it in this season, but I’ve made a Normandy bread, Pom Normand, which is a French apple bread from the Normandy region. Once we get apples on the trees, that will be sort of a no-brainer.”

Conquered Bread
Conquered Bread (19 Laurel St., Concord, conqueredbread.com) is sold by subscription and can also be purchased at the Concord Food Co-op (24 S. Main St., 225-6840, concordfoodcoop.com) and Revelstoke Coffee (100 N. Main St., Concord, 715-5821, revelstokecoffee.com).

Featured photo: Roasted Tomato Durum. Photo by Conquered Bread.

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