Explaining ranch water

Buena Gave serves summer drinks in a can

If you were to walk into a bar a couple of summers ago and order ranch water, you might have gotten some odd looks. Steve Poirier and the other owners of Buena Gave have been working to change that.

Poirier said that the first year he and his partners in the Manchester-based canned cocktail makers were trying to introduce their canned tequila drinks, their “ranch water” — a common drink across the southern U.S., particularly in Texas — was completely unfamiliar to New England customers.

“We still have ranch dressing conversations all the time,” he said. “Ranch water is obviously a massive thing down in Texas and any of the southern states. The original ranch water recipe is tequila, Topo Chico mineral water, real lime juice, and then salt or no salt, depending on your personal preference.” Now in its third year, Buena Gave Ranch Water is selling well.

“This cocktail is going to continue to boom,” Poirier said, “because tequila is on a rocket ship to the moon right now as a category. People are trying to clean up their drinking right now, and ranch water allows that to happen. It’s basic — no sugar, no sweetness, just back to basic ingredients.”

The Buena Gave team decided to start their own canned cocktail business because they saw an untapped market for simple tequila-based drinks. Poirier and his partners set out to make something different, with clean, easily tasted ingredients.

Poirier said customer demand has also been surprisingly high during the winter. “We see a lot of success with the ski community. We’ve had two great years at Waterville Valley ski resort. It’s the whole convenience factor — lower-calorie, cleaner drinking, cleaner taste, refreshing — that’s definitely becoming more of a thing as we meander through this whole process.”

The decision was made early on to limit the number of Buena Gave products to tequila-based cocktails that are popular in Mexico and the Southwest, near Jalisco, Mexico, where tequila is produced. A strong example of this is Buena Gave’s Cantarito.

“It’s a classic Mexican drink in tequila country,” Poirier said. “You get it at a lot of roadside stands and bars. It’s named after the mug it’s served in — a terracotta mug called a cantarito. It’s grapefruit juice and orange juice, with tequila, some soda water, sugar or no sugar depending on your preference. It’s like a mimosa meets a paloma. It’s super juicy, super citrusy. It’s unique [in this type of product]; the can is close to 28 or 30 percent fruit juice.”

“There are lots of places that just have beer and wine licences and don’t have full liquor licenses,” Poirier said, “and because of our alcohol level [6 percent ABV, or less], we fall into the beer and wine category. [We have customers] who have done really well with our Ranch Water, for instance, because they can’t carry full-proof spirits but they can carry canned cocktails.”

A kimbap artist

Susan Chung brings Korean food to the Cap Center

The Capitol Center for the Arts in Concord has announced its next Culinary Artist-In-Residence. Her name is Susan Chung, and she specializes in kimbap, a Korean street food.

Chef Chung explained that kimbap is traditionally a rice dish for Koreans on the go: “Kim’ is seaweed and ‘bap’ is rice. It’s a finger food. It’s not just like eating sushi with chopsticks and all that. It’s very different from sushi actually.”

Born in Korea, Chung was adopted by American parents and grew up in western Massachusetts. It wasn’t until she met her now-husband, Hyun, in college that she was introduced to traditional Korean food. When she moved to California to study design, Hyun went with her.

“That’s when I started experiencing a lot with different Korean foods,” she said. “There’s a huge Korean community in Los Angeles, Koreatown. I was exposed to a lot of the authentic food. My husband, who grew up in Sao Paulo, Brazil — his parents are Korean and everything — has been surrounded around it for his whole life. So I was able to, in my 20s, start to kind of experiment with it, and so now, 25 years later, I’ve had a lot of practice.”

“We’re excited to have Sue joining us,” Salvatore Prizio, the executive director of the Capitol Center, said in a telephone interview. “We’re thrilled to be working with her. And she’s going to be moving in a couple of weeks just to get, you know, used to the spaces and start with some soft opening events and things like that before we officially kick it off with a ribbon cutting and stuff in September.”

As the Capitol Center’s Culinary Artist-In-Residence, Chung will be able to use the Center’s two commercial kitchens for a year, while she gets her business, Sue’s Kimbap House, established. In addition, her food will be sold at CCA and Bank of NH Stage concession stands throughout her residency. She will also be able to use the facilities to do catering work. At the same time, she will be able to learn how to run a restaurant.

“I think it’s a great opportunity for anybody new to Concord to have a chance to basically experiment with any new food,” she said. “It’s very low risk, but it’s getting [my food] out there.”

The Capitol Center’s Culinary Artist-In-Residence program started two and a half years ago. “We started it shortly after I arrived at the CCA,” Prizio said. “Post-pandemic, both of our commercial kitchens were essentially sitting dormant, and running a food service business while trying to to run a nonprofit organization is quite a tall lift.” So the Capitol Center decided to host a fellowship to give an opportunity to some of Concord’s talented cooks who need help starting a restaurant.

Last year’s Culinary Artist-In-Residence was Somali Chef Batula Mohammed, who started Batula’s Kitchen (find her at facebook.com/BatulosKitchen).

“Betulo was able to save up enough money,” Prizio said, “through not only the stuff she was doing with us but also these catering gigs, that she was able to buy her own food truck. So now she has a food truck and she’s booked all summer, which is great for her. Our first [fellowship] out of the gate was a success story.”

Chung feels like the timing of her Culinary Artist-In-Residence position was excellent. She thinks New Hampshire eaters are ready to accept Korean food in a major way. She points to the success of Trader Joe’s frozen kimbap as a good omen.

“It did so well that Costco has its own version as well,” she said. “Frozen kimbap, compared to fresh homemade kimbap is completely different, of course, but at least it got people thinking about it. And then, with the K-dramas and K-pop, and people being more exposed to Korean culture in general, people are more willing to give Korean food a try.”

Susan Chung will officially start her Culinary Artist residency program and open Sue’s Kimbap House at the BNH Stage (16 S. Main St. in Concord; ccanh.com) on Thursday, Sept. 5.

Gotta pounce on the PoutineFest tickets

Tickets sell out fast to the annual celebration of potato, cheese and gravy

PoutineFest is Oct. 12 but tickets go on sale this weekend, and according to the event’s organizer and founder, Tim Beaulieu, they go quickly.

“We sell out lightning fast,” he said. “We’re going on sale on [July] 27th at 10 a.m. We’ll probably be sold out by 11 is my guess. We have people who come every year with their families, their friends. So all those folks want to come every single year. My biggest recommendation is if you want to try the most poutines in New England and you want to come on that day — on Columbus Day — be online at 10 o’clock and ready to buy.”

PoutineFest, which will be held at the Anheuser-Busch Brewery in Merrimack on Saturday, Oct. 12, is the country’s largest and oldest poutine festival. Poutine is a traditional French Canadian dish made of french fries topped with cheese curds and gravy, and it is deeply loved by people in New Hampshire of Québécois descent. Tim Beaulieu is one of them.

“I started PoutineFest back in [2016], honestly, because I was trying to connect to my heritage,” he said. “I looked around and I’m like, you know, there’s really no festival about the French Canadians. Poutine could be our pizza. So I approached the Franco-American Centre, became a volunteer, and started doing this event to benefit them.”

Guests at PoutineFest will be able to sample interpretations of poutine from different local restaurants who vie for the title of “Best Poutine” as voted on by Festival guests.

“Right now we have 13 vendors signed up to do sampling,” Beaulieu said. “We also have a whole bunch of different dessert trucks. We have French pastries, fried dough, pretzels, lemonade, coffee, a kids’ Halloween fun house, and a lot of different French-themed foods.”

New England Tap House Grille in Hooksett, is one of the vendors competing for the top prize. Tap House has participated in PoutineFest since the beginning.

“We’re competitors,” Nancy Comai of Tap House wrote in an email. “We want to win the ‘Best Poutine’ of the Festival title, and bring it back to Hooksett to share and keep the heritage alive!” She wrote that the Taphouse’s poutine stands out through its simplicity. “Our secret lies in the cheese curds,” she wrote, “— squeaky, fresh, and sourced locally. We’ve perfected the golden ratio of crispy fries, savory gravy, and those irresistible curds.” She did admit to one secret ingredient: “Our chefs add a splash of truffle oil, which makes all the difference.”

The Tap House’s fairly conservative approach might be a sound strategy to compete with some of the event’s less traditional interpretations of poutine.

Beaulieu said the Festival will publish the names of this year’s competitors around the time tickets go on sale. “We’re having somebody that wants to make poutine out of an ice cream cone or a taco shell,” he said. “We have duck confit, we have barbecue poutine. We have a pizza place coming that’s tinkering with maybe doing a poutine pizza. We get all kinds of different things. Any kind of beef is always huge on top.”

Beaulieau personally prefers a traditional french fry/cheese curd/gravy-style poutine, but he is picky about the gravy.

“It’s a meat-based gravy,” he said, “usually beef, that has a little bit of, like, almost like a zippy pepper to it. It’s hard to explain without you tasting it, but a good gravy really makes the difference.”

Ultimately, Beaulieu and Comai said PoutineFest is about celebrating New Hampshire’s French-Canadian-American culture.

“It benefits the culture,” Beaulieu said. “The Franco-American Centre in Manchester that does language classes [and] community outreach that is benefiting. So it’s going to a good cause.”

“It [PoutineFest] is about celebrating French language, culture and heritage,” Comai wrote. “The festival supports the Franco-American Centre of New Hampshire, a nonprofit that preserves our shared legacy.”

PoutineFest 2024
When: Saturday, Oct. 12
Where: Anheuser-Busch Brewery, 221 DW Highway, Merrimack, 595-1202, anheuser-busch.com/breweries/merrimack-nh
Tickets: The Festival’s 1,500 tickets go on sale at 10 a.m. Saturday, July 27, and are expected to sell out very quickly. General admission tickets are $54.99.
More: nhpoutinefest.com

The Weekly Dish 24/07/25

News from the local food scene

Saturday eats: Chef Keith Sarasin’s pop-up Indian restaurant, Aatma, now has a brick-and-mortar location. Aatma: Curry House is at 75 Mont Vernon St. in Milford; see aatmacurryhouse.com. Place an order online Sunday through Wednesday, for pickup on Saturday between 1 and 4 p.m.

New sparkling wines: LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst, 672-9898; 14 Route 111 in Derry; labellewinery.com) has announced the release of its new Méthode Champenoise wines, marking the first time the winery has crafted sparkling wines using this traditional French method. LaBelle’s Méthode Champenoise collection includes three wines showcasing a blend of grape varietals: a rosé made from baco noir grapes, a demi-sec made with seyval blanc grapes, and a brut made with chardonnay grapes. The wines are for sale at the Derry and Amherst locations for $65 per bottle, according to a press release.

Sit and eat: Taquaria y Pastelitos to Go (917 Valley St, Manchester, 232-3348, taqueriaypastelitos.com) has opened its dining room for in-house seating. Take-out only since the 2020 Covid lockdown, the restaurant is currently only offering counter service, but there are plans to add table service in the near future.

A whiskey-lover’s dream raffle: Tickets are on sale now for New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet’s 2024 Buddy-Up! Raffle to benefit Best Buddies New Hampshire (bestbuddies.org/newhampshire). The winner will receive 15 bottles of premium bourbon, including three bottles of the legendary Pappy Van Winkle; tickets for two or three premium bourbon events, including airfare and hotel accommodations; and spending money. Tickets cost $100 each and will be available until Sept. 27. Visit liquorandwineoutlets.com.

Hot sauce on the coast: The New England Hot Sauce Fest (newenglandhotsaucefest.com) will take place at Smuttynose Brewery (105 Towle Farm Road, Hampton, 601-8200, smuttynose.com) on Saturday, July 27, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. More than 30 hot sauce companies will offer samples and here will be hot pepper and a hot wing contest, food trucks and live music all day. General admission tickets cost $13 online, $15 at the door. VIP tickets cost $17 online and allow early access to the Festival.

Piña Colada

A shockingly large percentage of 20-year-olds are convinced that they make an extremely good piña colada. They aren’t precisely wrong; a 20-year-old’s piña colada tastes really good — to a 20-year old. Fill a blender with ice, pour it about a third of the way up with pineapple juice, half a can or so of pre-sweetened cream of coconut — the one with the parrot on it — and an unconscionable amount of rum.

Grind, whiz, slurp, and you’ve got something that will be a big hit with other 20-year-olds. It’s perfect for a dorm room, or a secret party in your buddy’s parent’s garage.

Many of us go through our adult life still convinced that we make a really good piña colada, until one day, after years of not having one, we confidently blend up a batch and are confronted with the fact that like many decisions we made in our youth this one has not aged well.

Most blender piña coladas are too sweet, too slushy, and taste a little like chemicals. So what if we gave the blender a break and made one much less sweet, and not so redolent of polysorbate 60?

A Grown-Up Piña Colada

  • 2 ounces dark rum – I like Gosling’s or Pusser’s
  • 3 ounces pineapple juice
  • 3 ounces coconut milk
  • ½ ounce honey syrup (see below)

Honey and pineapple have a natural affinity for each other. The muskiness of the honey tempers the fruitiness of pineapple juice. Unfortunately, if you drizzle honey onto the ice cubes in a cocktail shaker, it will seize up and won’t mix with other ingredients very well. Most bartenders get around this by using honey syrup. It’s like simple syrup, but made with honey, instead of sugar. The water is like a cocktail for the honey, loosening it up and making it more likely to mingle with its new friends.

Combine an equal amount of honey and water in a small saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir the mixture to make sure the honey is completely diluted in the water, then take it off the heat to cool. Honey is antimicrobial, so this syrup should last indefinitely in your refrigerator.

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice (make sure that it is large enough to hold eight and a half ounces of cocktail). Add all the ingredients, and shake thoroughly. This is one of those times when it’s OK to shake until you hear the ice breaking inside the shaker.

Pour the chilled drink into a Collins glass or a mason jar, then top it off with more ice, and stir it. Theoretically, you could use a mason jar to shake it, then just remove the lid and add a straw. I’m old enough that it seems like it might be fun to hand out unmixed piña colada at a party and have everyone shake theirs at the same time, possibly while listening to KC and the Sunshine Band’s unlamented classic “(Shake, Shake, Shake) Shake Your Booty.” At the very least it would humiliate and drive away any children present, giving the grownups a little breathing room.

We’ve already established that honey and pineapple juice complement each other. Coconut and pineapple are both from the same neighborhood; they go way back. With actual coconut milk, the finished drink is silky and rich, rather than overly sweet. It goes without saying that rum is everyone’s friend.

Twenty-year-old you would not be impressed. Which is sort of the point.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Addie Leader-Zavos

Addie Leader-Zavos, Pastry Chef and co-owner of Eden’s Table Farm and Farm Store (240 Stark Highway North, Dunbarton, 774-1811, facebook.com/EdensTableFarm)

“I grew up in the middle of Washington, D.C. I loved to cook from a really young age. I got this book called Preserving the Seasons for my birthday when I was 9. It was fantastic, and the author was making things like apricots in lavender syrup, or brandied pears, and talking about walking out to the patio and picking fresh herbs. I was like, ‘That’s the life for me!’”

After exploring several different careers, Leader-Zavos went to culinary school at the Cordon Bleu in Boston and worked in fine dining restaurants that focused on seasonal menus. After being sidetracked by a back injury, she moved into pastry and opened a custom pastry and catering business specializing in dessert buffets and bespoke wedding cakes. After the Covid-19 lockdown, she and her husband, co-owner Michael Williams, bought Eden’s Table Farm in Dunbarton to focus on local and seasonal produce, locally produced farm products, and fresh baked goods.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A digital scale. I love to bake, particularly now … there is no better way to ensure high-quality results than to be precise and consistent with measurements.

What would you have for your last meal?

Definitely my grandmother’s slow-cooked brisket with onions. My grandmother made brisket for every holiday and my mom makes it for holidays and every time she comes to visit. It’s just that instantly comforting meal that’s made even better by all the memories attached to it.

What is your favorite local eatery?

The Nepalese restaurant KS Kitchen in Manchester. The food is super-flavorful, well-crafted and perfectly seasoned, just absolutely delicious. Plus, I cannot turn down any form of dumpling and their momo is out of this world.

Name a celebrity you would like to see shopping at your farm store or eating something you’ve prepared.

Pastry chef and author Claudia Fleming. I really admire her style of baking and pastry-making; it’s very seasonal, uses lots of fresh local ingredients, and incorporates salty/savory notes.

What is your favorite thing you make or sell at the moment?

Our chocolate chunk cookie because it has such a great homey taste and texture, big chunks of dark chocolate and a nice kick of sea salt. We’re using regionally grown, freshly ground flours, chocolate from New Hampshire bean-to-bar chocolate maker Loon Chocolate, and an apple brandy from Flag Hill Distillery for top notes. It’s a classic that’s distinguished by the local ingredients we’re using and I hope we’ll be making it for years to come.

What is the biggest food trend you see in New Hampshire right now?

I’m really impressed with how New Hampshirites are coming together to improve opportunities for small farms and home-based food businesses right now. Last year HB 119 was passed, making it easier for small farms to have certain types of meat processed locally. Just a few days ago HB 1565 was passed, which makes it possible to sell pickles made in a home kitchen. Now the legislature is considering HB 1685, which would open up even more opportunities for small farms and food entrepreneurs. This trend of creating more opportunities for people who want to participate in the local food economy really benefits everyone who loves good food, so I hope we’ll see more of it.

What is your favorite thing to cook for yourself?

When I cook for the enjoyment of cooking, I take a dish and make it over and over again until I get it exactly the way I want it. But when I cook to feed myself I tend to keep it very simple — a fresh-picked cucumber sliced up and served with some homemade dip, a big bowl of roasted zucchini with a little soy sauce, or maybe a cheese omelet with fresh herbs and hot sauce. We have access to so many fresh, flavorful ingredients on the farm and through our farm store that I really don’t have to do much to create something very satisfying and enjoyable.

Featured Photo: Addie Leader-Zavos. Courtesy photo.

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