The Right Tie: A Cocktail Parable

Charlie was definitely out of his element.

Never mind that he’d worn a suit maybe three times in his life and one of those had been a rented powder-blue tux. This blazer cost as much as he earned in a month. He looked at his reflection in the mirror again, hoping he’d see something vaguely inspiring.

“Dress for the job you want.” Isn’t that what they say? But looking at himself, he could only hope that someone was hoping to hire a pudgy, nervous-looking kid on the verge of hyperventilating.

He looked at the price tag on the cuff of the jacket again, and tried to breathe deeply.

“I really don’t think—,” he started to say.

“Hush!” said the saleslady with authority. She was an older woman — of course, Charlie was still young enough that anyone over 35 was old, but she had clearly been doing this a long time and seemed to know what she was doing.

She turned him around, away from the mirror, then flipped up the collar of his shirt and quickly, with the ease of years of practice, looped a necktie around his neck, knotted it, then flipped his collar back down.

She turned him back to the mirror, but before he could take in any of the details of his appearance she tucked a pocket square into the breast pocket of the jacket, then stepped back and said, “How’s that?”

Charlie was stunned. It wasn’t so much that there was a dramatic change in who he saw in the mirror — still a young, round face — but this time it belonged to a better version of Charlie. It was a mature, confident Charlie. No, Charles, maybe, although only his mother had ever called him that and only when she was angry with him. This was a young man who knew what he was doing, a man who could get through an interview and wait for the person on the other side of the desk to explain what they had to offer him.

The saleswoman nodded with satisfaction.

“The right tie makes all the difference,” she said.

The Right Tie

  • ¾ ounce top-shelf rum – I used a 15-year-old Barbancourt
  • 1½ ounces apple brandy – I like Laird’s Applejack
  • ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
  • ¾ ounce orgeat (almond syrup)

Combine all ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker.

Shake gently. You want to chill this cocktail — if possible, without breaking up the ice.

Pour into a rocks glass.

This is a serious, booze-forward cocktail. Even the small amount of extra-good rum makes itself known. The apple brandy fades into the background, giving just a hint of subtle fruitiness and even more of an alcoholic backbone. Lime and almond get along very well and will work with either of these liquors, to say nothing of both of them.

And yet.

The combination as a whole is very intense — a little more boozy/sweet/acidic than is strictly comfortable. A natural inclination might be to shake this over ice extremely enthusiastically, break up the ice, and chill it as much as possible, then serve it in a stemmed glass to keep it cold.

Or — hear me out on this — drink it over ice in a rocks glass like a grownup.

There’s something about drinking from a rocks glass that brings a sense of maturity to the proceedings. More to the point, a rocks glass lets you use rocks. The intensity of this cocktail will limit you to small sips at first, which will give the ice time to melt a little and bring the intensity down, while keeping everything ice cold.

With a nudge, this could have been a tiki drink, and probably a good one, but the right glass, much like the right tie, brings maturity and the faintest of confident Mona Lisa smiles.

Featured photo: The Right Tie. Photo by John Fladd.

A pint of jalapeños

A springtime tradition at Concord Craft Brewing

Dennis Molnar, co-owner of Concord Craft Brewing, says weather plays a bigger role in running a brewery than you might think.

“Most people, unless they’re die-hards, are pulled toward lighter beers,” he said of spring beer drinkers. Which explains the Jalapeño Cream Ale.

Molnar said one of the challenges of making specialty seasonal beers is knowing how much to make, and when to make it.

“We get people getting in touch with us all the time, asking, ‘Why can’t you make the Jalapeño year-round, or why can’t you make that very rich, heavy porter all year round?’ It’s hard to know what the right amount to make is, before people’s tastes change,” he said.

The Jalapeño Cream Ale originally started as a tribute to Cinco de Mayo, Molnar said, but after several years customers started to think of it as a generally springtime beer.

“It’s a Golden Ale,” he said. “It’s on the lighter side, which makes it popular for warmer weather. We use real jalapeños and let it age [with the chiles] for several weeks. There’s a little bit of spice there, but not so much that you can’t finish your dinner or anything.”

Before the Jalapeño this year, there was the maple-season-themed Logger Lager.

“Most years, in the late winter/early spring, we make a bourbon barrel-aged maple brown ale,” Molnar said, “but we had trouble getting barrels this year.” Instead the brewery put out a mazen, a German-style, medium-bodied golden ale with maple syrup. “We liked the name,” he said. “Also, small brewers [like us] make unpasteurized beers. That means that the yeast ferments out the maple sugars, and you’re left with a more subtle maple flavor.”

One of the advantages of running a small brewery is having the freedom to test out new ideas, Molnar said.

“We can make a small batch and see how it works out,” he said. At the moment, he and his team are thinking about something new for the summer, a cherry wheat beer.

“It should be a fun, light, bright-colored beer,” he said. “We’ve finally got a good source for cherry purée.”

During the summer the brewery’s customers drink beers that are lighter in color, texture and percentage of alcohol, but in the fall they start drinking heavier porters and stouts.

“Our Squirrel Fights Nut Brown Ale is really popular,” Molnar said, “and Apple Crisp — like the dessert — Porter is one of our most popular fall beers. We almost always brew a pumpkin beer, too. Some people really like pumpkin beers around that time of year. A lot of them don’t actually like eating pumpkin, but they love seeing it in a glass.”

Right now, the flavor of the moment is jalapeño. Because it has become identified so strongly with springtime, it will be around for the rest of the season.

“We’ll have it in stores until the beginning of June,” Molnar said, “and on tap for a little longer.”

Featured Photo: Photos courtesy of Concord Craft Brewing.

A great French baking contest

This year’s theme is plays and musicals

How much do you know about the French-speaking world other than France or Quebec and could you express that knowledge in a cake?

On May 18, 10 teams of amateur bakers will have an opportunity to do just that at the Franco-American Centre’s Third Annual Fleur Délices, a cake-decorating competition dedicated to spreading knowledge about the Francophone world. Teams will bring everything they need to build elaborately decorated cakes with a French or French-influenced theme.

“This goes hand-in-hand with our mission at the Franco-American Centre,” said Nathalie Hirte, the event’s organizer, “to introduce people to the world outside the France/Quebec box.”

For the event’s first year the Fleur Délices’ theme was French-speaking countries around the world, Hirte said.

“Last year, it was fairy tales; this year our theme is Plays and Musicals of the French-Speaking World,” she said. “What’s happened in the past is the contestants have looked at our suggestion list, then gone and picked something else completely. As long as their cakes meet our criteria, they’re good.”

Fleur Délices — the name, which indicates “delicate and delicious,” is a pun; it sounds like “Fleur de Lis,” the symbol of France — is inspired by The Great British Baking Show, a television baking competition known for its creativity and kindness. Like its inspiration, Fleur Délices will require competitors to make and present cakes, but unlike the television show, there will be no baking on site.

“None of the venues we’ve held the event at have ovens,” Hirte said. Competitors will bake their cakes at home, then bring them to the event along with frosting and any edible elements they need to put their finished cakes together. Teams can have one or two participants. Single-person teams will have an hour to decorate their cakes; pairs will have 45 minutes.

Each cake must have a minimum of two tiers, and one of them must be a sponge. (“That’s another influence from the British Baking Show,” Hirte said.) The icing must include at least one buttercream. All cakes must have a 3D element that is made from an edible material. Other than that, the organizers have not been overly specific about their requirements.

“We didn’t want to limit the bakers’ creativity,” Hirte said. “We just want them all on a level playing field.”

Two or three judges will walk around during the competition, visiting teams at their stations and asking questions. They will judge individual cakes on taste, texture, overall appearance, creativity and their representation of the theme. The overall winner of the competition will be chosen from an average of the judges’ scores and will be presented with an engraved cake platter.

A People’s Choice winner will be chosen by the spectators. Because it will not be possible for every spectator to taste each cake, the People’s Choice winner will be based almost entirely on appearance.

“We guarantee that everyone will get two to three samples,” she said. “The last two years, nobody has left hungry. We always get positive feedback on the event.” The People’s Choice winner will be presented with a charcuterie board.

Fleur Délices is open to bakers 16 and older.

“The past couple of years we’ve had some French teachers and their students compete,” Hirte says. “That’s been fun.”

Registration for competitors is $20 per team and is open until Friday, April 26, on the Franco-American Centre’s website. Tickets for spectators will go on sale within the next week or so through the same website.

Featured Photo: Teacher and student team. Courtesy photo.

Mango Crème Brûlée

A note about mangoes: Fresh, ripe mangoes are a gift, tender, juicy, sweet and perfumy. Even in New Hampshire, pretty much every supermarket will have fresh mangoes. Granted they might not be ripe, but with a little planning even the most ham-handed cook can buy a hard mango and let it ripen up for a week or so before eating it or cooking with it. But if you find yourself in a bind, mango-riping-wise what then?

Frozen fruit is just about perfect for making purees and syrups. The freezing process breaks down cell walls and lends itself to processing. Is it as good as an actual ripe mango? Not even remotely. Is it better than no mango? Infinitely.

The same goes for canned mangoes. Unlike their frozen brothers, their cell walls are mostly intact, so they won’t dissolve into mush. Diced “champagne mangoes” — the little yellow ones — would beat up a canned mango in the parking lot without breaking a sweat, but for a Mud Season tropical crème brûlée, it will do nicely.

¾ cup (230 g) mango puree

1/3 cup (79 g) sugar

2½ cups (567 g) heavy cream

pinch of salt

1 Tablespoon really good vanilla extract or vanilla paste

7 egg yolks

2 fresh, ripe mangos, diced, or 1 can mango cubes

Preheat your oven to 280ºF.

Separate your eggs, and put the yolks in a large bowl.

Puree mangoes in your blender. If you are using frozen mangoes, let them thaw first.

Whisk the mango puree, sugar, and heavy cream together in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat until it is “scalded” — this means hot, but not yet boiling (about 180ºF, if you’re using a thermometer).

Remove the cream mixture from heat, then, whisking like a crazy person, spoon a couple of tablespoons of the hot cream into the egg yolks. This is called “tempering.” It will slowly bring the yolks up to temperature without cooking them. Keep adding a few tablespoons at a time, whisking constantly; I use a ¼-cup measuring cup for this. When the yolks are incorporated into the cream, whisk in the vanilla.

Put ramekins into a couple of casserole dishes. I like to use the little glass jars that some yogurt comes in. Distribute your diced mango between the ramekins.

Pour your custard mixture into the ramekins — it should fill around 10 of the yogurt jars about three quarters of the way up. Pour hot water into the casserole dishes. This is called a “bain marie” and helps your crème brûlée heat evenly, so it doesn’t crack.

Heat on the middle rack of your oven for 20 to 40 minutes. It will probably take 40, but you should check on it every five minutes or so starting at 20. You want to cook the custard very gently, so it will not pick up much color. Check it by picking up one of the ramekins with a set of tongs and jiggling it. When it doesn’t slosh around but jiggles like Jell-o, it is ready to remove from the oven.

Remove the ramekins from their water bath and let them cool on your counter for half an hour or so, then chill them for at least three hours in the refrigerator.

Brûlée-ing them: Sprinkle sugar on the surface, then caramelize it into a thin candy shell that will crack when you tap it with the back of a spoon. Many cooks like to use a tiny blowtorch to do this. Pastry chefs use an industrial-strength broiler called a “salamander.” I like to use a plain, not-putting-on-airs plumber’s blow torch, the kind with a blue butane bottle that you buy at a hardware store.

Mango and vanilla are natural partners. This custard is cool, delicate and creamy, with little chunks of mango in it. The candy shell is warm and crisp and anything but delicate. It’s fancy, but even though you don’t indulge it very often, you’ve got a fancy side to you that needs to be let out of its cell every once in a while.

Featured photo: Mango Crème Brûlée. Photo by John Fladd.

Springtime is tea time

Light, fruity varieties suit the season

By John Fladd
[email protected]

March and April are when the highest-quality teas — the “first flush” teas — are harvested.

“This is an exciting time of year for teas,” said Danielle Beaudette, the owner of The Cozy Tea Cart (104A Route 13 in Brookline, thecozyteacart.com, 249-9111).

Later in the year there will be other tea harvests across Asia — the second flush in late spring, the monsoon flush during the summer, and the autumnal flush in September and October — but the first flush teas are something special. Tea plants spend the winter months gathering nutrients and minerals, she said which give teas harvested at this time of year a pure and delicate flavor.

Spring is exciting in the tea world too, because the change in weather brings a change in tea enthusiasts’ drinking habits. During the winter, Beaudette said, tea drinkers tend to drink chais and spicier warming blends. That changes come springtime.

“This is the time of year when we start moving into iced teas,” she said. “People want something a little fruity with the warmer weather.” It’s a good time to try new teas and to pair them with food. To this end, her shop offers seasonal tasting flights of teas with foods that complement them.

Here are four of her pairings for the new spring tea season.

Pairing 1: A plain scone with English caramel black tea

This is a fairly substantial black tea that is tempered by the sweetness of caramel.

“The scone is slightly sweet,” Beaudette said, “but mostly savory, which balances out the sweetness of the caramel.” This tea is a blend of black teas from China and Assam in northeast India.

Pairing 2: A cinnamon chip muffin with Assam East Frisian black tea

“Cinnamon has a strong flavor,” Beaudette said, “and you need a tea that can stand up to it and not be overwhelmed.” She compares it to pairing a bold red wine with hearty food. “This tea blend uses golden leaf Assam, Darjeeling and Ceylon teas. Its infusion is brisk enough to handle the sweet and spicy flavors of the muffin.”

Pairing 3: Broccoli and cheddar quiche with Sencha Fukamushi green tea

“This is a Japanese green tea,” she said, explaining that there is a huge difference between the flavors of Japanese and Chinese green teas. “The Chinese tea has a nutty flavor, because it is pan-fired. The Japanese green teas are steamed, which gives them a more vegetal flavor.” Additionally, she says, some Japanese tea producers shade their tea bushes for a couple of months before harvesting the tea. The leaves have to work harder and thus produce more chlorophyll, which is another reason why it has a “greener” flavor. The vegetal qualities of this Japanese tea are well-balanced with the strong vegetal taste of the broccoli in the quiche.

Pairing 4: A “loaded” chocolate chip cookie with Vanilla Indulgence herbal tea

This tea is not actually made from tea leaves; it is made with rooibos, a South African plant with a lightly sweet, nutty flavor with woody notes. This plays off the coconut and walnuts in the cookie, and clears a tea-drinker’s palate to help distinguish between its two types of chocolate. The vanilla in the tea complements the butter and chocolate.

Regardless of which tea a customer chooses, Beaudette stresses the importance of brewing it correctly: “The lighter the color of a tea, the shorter amount of time you should steep it, and the lower the temperature of the water. Darker teas require longer steeping at a higher temperature.” If you use a teabag, she said, please don’t steep it for more than two minutes. “You’ll be happier with it,” she said.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

Snacks, treats, ostrich meats

Made in NH Expo offers foodie fun and more

By John Fladd
[email protected]

When it comes to naming items produced in the Granite State, maple syrup might be the one and only thing that comes to mind. So prepare to have your mind blown at the Made in NH Expo from Friday, April 7, through Sunday, April 9, at the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown Hotel, 700 Elm St. in Manchester. According to the Business NH magazine website, the Made In NH “Try It & Buy It” Expo, now in its 27th year, will offer attendees the opportunity to discover a plethora of unique products available right here in New Hampshire.

“There will be nearly 100 vendors this year,” said Kelly Keating, Event Director for Granite Media Group, the producer of the event, in an email. “We have woodworkers, furniture makers, chocolatiers, bakers, jewelers, homemade jams and jellies, outdoor clothing, T-shirts, authors, including two children’s authors, knitters, metal work, photographers, a lavender farm, potters, all-natural face and body treatments, women’s specialty clothing, children’s clothing, candles, tide clocks, fudge, custom cowboy boots, hand-tied fishing lures and more. We also have The Libation Station, an area where attendees 21 and over with ID can sample New Hampshire-made wine, beer, mead and spirits.”

For foodies, the Made in NH Expo will offer “lots of mouth-watering treats on hand to sample. Chocolate, baklava, spanakopita, spices and sauces, coffee, cheesecake, whoopie pies, cookies, cake cups, honey, pot pies and, new this year, an ostrich meat farmer,” Keating said.

According to the Made in NH Expo Facebook page, this year’s food vendors will include Twins 4 Life Creations, featuring all-natural New Hampshire blueberry sauce and jellies made from herbal tea; Lemongrass Restaurant and Sake Bar by Chef Ooh, bringing seasonings, dressings and sauces that give food an authentic Asian flavor; Granite State Candy Shoppe, offering gourmet chocolates and super-premium homemade ice cream; The Pot Pie Bar; Van Otis Chocolate; Fabrizia Lemon Baking Co.; The Mill Fudge Factory; Thistle’s All Natural, specializing in handmade zucchini salsas; Dandido Hot Sauce; Granite State Freeze Dried Candy; Holy Moly Snacks, with thin crispy beef chips in multiple flavors and a gluten-free option; Maggie’s Munchies, offering old-fashioned New England desserts like whoopie pies; Choo-Choo’s Cheesecakes; Youla’s Bakery, bringing traditional Greek desserts and delicacies; and many more.

For those who have never attended a Made in NH event, Keating offers enthusiastic encouragement. “Coming to the Expo is a unique way to see all of the variety of unique locally made products they may not have realized are made right in their backyard,” she said. “They’ll find artisanal food and beverages, handmade crafts, home goods and more, and they can talk with the makers. They can sample food and beverages made in New Hampshire, allowing them to experience the flavors of the state. Attendees can learn more about local businesses and products made in New Hampshire, gaining a great appreciation for the local economy and craftsmanship, and support sustainability at the same time.”

For kids, Keating said, there will be a balloon artist and face painter. There will be rescue animals at the event for people to meet, and music to give a festive atmosphere. In addition, Keating said, “There will be … a full-sized airplane on display, built by New Hampshire students through a program with the Aviation Museum of New Hampshire.“

On a personal note, Keating enjoys discovering new vendors and products she may not have known about before. “It’s nice to play a role in supporting small businesses in the state and seeing the creativity and talents of New Hampshire artisans,” she said. “The sense of appreciation for all things made locally makes the Made in NH Expo a fun experience.”

Made in NH Expo
When: Friday, April 5, 1 to 7 p.m.; Saturday, April 6, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, April 7, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Where: DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown Hotel, 700 Elm St., Manchester
Cost: adults $8, seniors (65+) $7, children (under 14) free; tickets (available online or at the door) valid for one-day admission to the Expo.
More: www.madeinnhexpo.com

Featured Photo: Past Year. Courtesy photo.

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