The Weekly Dish 24/09/05

News from the local food scene

Sue’s is open: Sue’s Kimbap House (Bank of NH Stage, 16 S. Main St., Concord, 731-9085, Sueskimbaphouse.com) is officially open. Owner and chef Susan Chung will be Capitol Center for the Arts’ Culinary Artist in Residence for the next year. The new Korean street food-inspired restaurant will be open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays. The Kimbap House website will be up soon.

Chocolate factory tour: Van Otis Chocolates (341 Elm St., Manchester, 627-1611, vanotis.com) will host a tour of its chocolate factory Thursday, Sept. 5, from 11 a.m. to noon. Tours are approximately 45 minutes long and are recommended for ages 6+. All children must be accompanied by an adult. Tickets are $15 through eventbrite.com.

Herbal tea class: Herbalist Maria Noël Groves will lead a class called “Make Your Own Herbal Teas for Flavor, Immunity and Digestion” at Bedrock Gardens (19 High Road, Lee, 659-2993, bedrockgardens.org) on Friday, Sept. 6, from 2 to 3:30 p.m. Tickets are $25 for members, $35 for non-members. The cass includes a day pass to Bedrock Gardens that day. Visit eventbrite.com.

Dinner in a barn: Sanborn Mills Farm (7097 Sanborn Road, Loudon, 435-7314, sanbornmills.org) will host a Farm to Table Dinner on Saturday, Sept. 7, from 5 to 8:30 p.m. The evening will include a cocktail hour on the terrace followed by dinner and dessert in Sanborn Barn. Email [email protected].

Watermelon Punch

Planteray Rum, rebranded from Plantation Rum and owned by Cognac Ferrand, makes an excellent rum. One of its most recent releases has been something called “Stiggins’ Fancy” Pineapple Rum, named after a Charles Dickens character who liked to drink a pineapple rum or three. Although this rum has been infused with pineapple in a couple different ways, it does not taste too fruity. It is sweet but not syrupy, and very smooth.

It goes very well with watermelon.

Watermelon Punch

  • 2 ounces rum of your choice — I recommend Planteray’s “Stiggins’ Fancy” Pineapple Rum (see above)
  • 3 ounces fresh watermelon juice (see below)
  • 3 ounces fresh squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 ounce simple syrup

Juicing a watermelon

Choose a small, ripe, flavorful watermelon. It should have a pronounced pale spot where it used to rest on the ground when it was growing in the field. Try to find one with stripes spaced the width of two fingers across.

Cut the melon in half, and scoop its flesh into a blender with an ice cream scoop. Blend the melon thoroughly — slowly at first, then really put the spurs to it during the last few seconds. Watermelons are 92 percent water, so it should liquify beautifully. Strain it with a fine mesh strainer, and discard the small amount of pink pulp and seeds. It should last for about a week in your refrigerator.

Making the punch

Fill a mason jar halfway with ice, then add the rum, juices and syrup.

Screw the top on the jar, and shake thoroughly. Remove the lid, fill the jar the rest of the way up with ice, and add a straw.

How sweet and flavorful this punch is will depend largely on the quality of your watermelon. At worst this will be a refreshing take on pink lemonade, but at its best the lemon will take the lead in the front end, followed by a deep fruitiness from the melon.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

Have a drink, play poker

United Way of Greater Nashua’s pub crawl is a night of fun for a good cause

The idea is pretty simple, at least in the beginning of the night.

Walk into a pub, drink a beer and get a playing card. Then move on to another pub and do the same thing all over again. After five pubs, five beers (or other beverage) and five playing cards, you will have a poker hand. When you and your fellow pub-crawlers have reached the final bar, you will compare poker hands. The crawler with the highest hand will win fabulous prizes.

The United Way of Greater Nashua (unitedwaynashua.org) is holding just such a Poker Pub Crawl, Saturday, Sept. 7, from 4 to 8 p.m. It is the brainchild of Samantha Cassista, the United Way’s Director of Corporate Partnerships. She is emphatic that nobody is under any obligation to drink five or more beers, or anything alcoholic at all, for that matter, to participate.

“You don’t have to purchase an alcoholic beverage,” she said. “You can do non-alcoholic the entire time.”

The United Way of Greater Manchester has a reputation for holding creative fundraisers, but this is the first time it has organized this particular event. Cassista said one of the most challenging aspects of pulling it together was finding enough bars on Main Street in Nashua that were within walking distance of each other and were willing to participate.

“It was not easy to get five bars to say yes to doing this,” she said. “Some of them said yes so quickly I was floored. Others gave me the silent treatment, and a few were flat-out ‘heck no.’ It was a long process to be able to find the five who were excited about it. So we’re very, very excited to show off these nice community partners and we appreciate them being able to support us by opening their doors and taking on something that might seem a little risky to others.”

Participants will start out at Kettlehead on Main (97 Main St.), where they will get their first playing card, and be broken into three groups.

“Our goal is to have about 100 people,” Cassista said. “The three groups will cycle between three different bars so as to not overwhelm the bars too much and allow for more bars to be able to participate. They don’t all have to have a 100-person capacity.”

Each group will be assigned a “captain” who will keep everyone organized and make sure they have a good time. Cassista said the captains will wear captains’ hats and will take photos of people throughout the evening.

“We’re going to have a Social Media Prize given to one of the three groups,” she said. “It’s like bartender’s choice, and to the group the bars think is the nicest group. It’s kind of a version of a Miss Congeniality Award.”

After starting at Kettlehead on Main, the groups will circulate between Penuche’s Ale House (4 Canal St.), Fody’s Tavern (9 Clinton St.) and Margaritas (1 Nashua Drive) before meeting at the final stop at Odd Fellows Brewing (124 Main St.). Participants will have to buy their own drinks at each stop, but all the participating bars will have special prices for them. “So we are supporting the local restaurants,” Cassista said, “but our people are getting special deals.”

Once everyone is together again, the pub-crawlers will compare their poker hands and the participant with the highest hand will win $150, while the other people will be entered in raffles to spread the luck around.

Cassista said events like this are a good way to introduce the charity to younger people who might not be familiar with it.

“A lot of people understand the United Way as sort of a name,” she said. “There’s a name recognition, but they don’t really know much about us. That’s OK, but this will help them to get a little more in touch with United Way, OK, so they do fundraising. I wonder why they do fundraising’. And hopefully that will bring on the next question.”

The Poker Hand Pub Crawl
Saturday, Sept. 7, from 4 to 8 p.m., starting at Kettlehead on Main Nashua (97 Main St.)
Participants can register online through the United Way’s event page. The $25 registration fee includes entry to the event, a map of participating venues, and a chance to win the grand cash prize and many raffle prizes. Proceeds go to support United Way of Greater Nashua.

The Weekly Dish 24/08/29

News from the local food scene

Another Friendly Toast: On Monday, Aug. 26, there was a grand opening of the newest branch of the Friendly Toast, at 18 Via Toscana in Salem. The new Salem location spans approximately 4,500 square feet and seats up to 170. The Friendly Toast has 13 locations across New England, including, in New Hampshire, Portsmouth (its original location), Bedford, Nashua and Salem.

Pumpkin martini and cupcake: September’s martini and cupcake pairing at the Copper Door (15 Leavy Drive, Bedford, 488-2677; 41 S. Broadway, Salem, 458-2033; copperdoor.com) will feature a pumpkin martini made with vanilla vodka, rumchata, pumpkin liqueur and cream, with a caramel and cinnamon sugar rim, for $14. It can be paired with a pumpkin streusel cupcake made with pumpkin spice cake, a streusel crunch topping, cinnamon cream cheese frosting and caramel sauce for $11.

Try this cooking challenge: The Nashua Public Library (2 Court St., Nashua, 589-4600, nashualibrary.org) will host Cooking with Kendra on Thursday, Aug. 29, from 6 to 7:30 p.m. Meet at Soel Sistas, where Chef Kendra Smith will coach you as you prepare a meal from low-cost mystery ingredients. Park in the lot at 30 Temple St. No registration is necessary. Open to ages 18+.

Make a charcuterie board: Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host a Charcuterie Board Making Workshop & Wine Tasting Wednesday, Sept. 4, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. This workshop is $65 and includes all materials; register online.

Corn on the cone

If you’ve ever gotten ambitious with your cooking or baking and have tried to share something new that you’ve made with friends or acquaintances, you’ve probably seen a visible reluctance on their faces to take the food you’ve offered.

“It’s OK, I’m fine,” they’ll say.

“I didn’t ask if you are fine,” you might say, if you weren’t restrained by politeness. “I asked you to accept this gift of food that I made myself, as a symbol of how much I like and value you.” But you don’t, and at the end of the day you end up bringing your miso brownies back home with you.

The frustrating fact is that most people don’t want interesting food. They want comforting food.

Here is a really interesting food that — assuming you can get them to try it — will become their new comfort food:

Charcoal-Grilled Corn Ice Cream

  • 6 leftover corn cobs from eating fresh sweet corn
  • 1 quart (946 ml) half & half
  • 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

As ice creams go, this one is remarkably straightforward. You don’t have to worry about tempering egg yolks, or melting chocolate in a double boiler, or ordering Bolivian bee pollen, or anything. There are three ingredients, and four or five steps, and the level of technical knowledge involved is about the same as in making a grilled cheese sandwich. The most daunting part of making this ice cream is deciding to do it.

Whisk the cream and condensed milk together and pour it into a medium-sized airtight container. Snap the lid on, and store this in the refrigerator.

Set up your grill, light the charcoal, and get your grilling equipment — a plate, tongs and a beer — ready. Wait until the coals are roughly half gray, half black, then grill your corn cobs. Treat them like you would sausages; turn them from time to time, until they are consistently grilled — golden brown, with just a little bit of char. This should take just about long enough to drink your beer. If you are a fan of grilled foods with a heavy char, leave the cobs on the grill a few minutes longer. Remove them to the plate, and take them back into your kitchen.

(It would be a shame to waste the still perfectly good coals, so you might want to grill some actual sausages or Almost Burgers at this point.)

Put the grilled corn cobs in your cream mixture. Completely cover them with liquid, if possible. If not, put the top back on, and swirl to completely cover the cobs. Return the container to the refrigerator to rest for 24 to 48 hours, swirling occasionally. The fat in the cream is really good at absorbing flavors. Remember that time the butter tasted funny after your brother-in-law left mackerel in the fridge after his fishing trip? Same concept. The corn and smoke flavors of your grilled corn cobs will infuse into the cream. Because this is going on in your refrigerator, you don’t have to worry about gently heating the cream or anything. Shake it and leave it.

After the cream mixture has infused for a couple of days, remove the cobs from the container. There will be suspiciously less cream left than you think there should be. Everything delicious comes at a price. In this case, the corn cobs have absorbed some of the cream as a sort of souvenir. If there are any distressing bits of char in the cream, strain it through a fine-mesh strainer.

Churn the mixture in your ice cream maker until it has pulled together into a stiff, soft-serve consistency, then transfer it to freezing containers, and harden it off for a day or so in your freezer.

While this looks like vanilla ice cream, it is very much its own thing. It is sweet and slightly smoky, with a rich, corny aftertaste. You wouldn’t think that sweet and smoky would go together, but grilled peaches or pineapples are delicious, to say nothing of barbecue sauce, so it shouldn’t be surprising how delicious this is. If you wanted to complicate things, you could top it with a spoonful of lime marmalade (lime goes extremely well with smoke and corn) but one of this ice cream’s biggest assets is its delicious simplicity.

And , of course, how interesting it is.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Evan Lang

Evan Lang and his wife started Dishon Gluten-Free Bakery in New Jersey in 2022, tapping into the farmers market scene in a cottage capacity. Their business quickly outgrew what they could produce from their home, and they moved to a commercial baking space in Philadelphia, continuing with farmers markets, selling their bread wholesale and shipping online. As it turned out, unsliced bread ships well, and the business continued to grow. After moving to New Hampshire, the couple decided to devote their energy to a brick-and-mortar bakery instead of wholesale baking. Lang is the face of their new storefront, Dishon Bakery (915 Elm St. in Manchester, 600-1773, dishonbakery.com), handles day-to-day operations, and does all the baking. Dishon, named after a river in Israel, sells exclusively gluten-free bread and bagels.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Definitely a bench scraper. It is not only a must-have for baking bread, but it is a great universal tool for all sorts of things like cleaning your workspace and transferring chopped ingredients from the cutting board to a pan or bowl. It makes working in the kitchen more efficient, and I love how it simplifies so many tasks.

What would you have for your last meal?

If it was my very last meal, I would eat things full of gluten. Since I have celiac disease and have been on a gluten-free diet for over 12 years, I would indulge in all of the things I haven’t been able to eat. Most likely I’d get a pizza and a hoppy beer.

What is your favorite local eatery?

We only recently moved to Manchester and don’t eat out often, but we did have a really good experience at the Foundry recently — I love the way the decor reflects the history of the city and the food was great. I’m sure we have lots of places to try, so I’m open to any suggestions.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see eating your bread?

Larry David. I just find him hilarious, and his candid, no-nonsense approach to life would make for a great conversation. I think it would be fun to see him enjoy something I’ve baked.

What is your favorite thing you bake in the shop?

I love baking breads that have seeds on them. Not only is the process of seeding the dough really fun (spraying down the dough balls with water and then rolling them in seeds) but I think bread that is covered with seeds bakes up really nicely and looks beautiful at the end of the process.

What is the biggest food trend you see in New Hampshire right now?

Tough for me to answer this one as well since we just moved to Manchester, but my first impressions were that there is a big push to use local ingredients here. I see local eggs, meat, dairy and beer in a lot of eateries. I think that’s really commendable.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love slow-roasted chicken — whether it’s a full chicken or chicken quarters, with simple seasoning, then slow roasted for three or four hours makes the meat so tender it just falls off the bone. It’s comforting and delicious, making it my favorite home-cooked meal.

Gluten-Free Financiers
From Evan Lang, Dishon Bakery.

1/3 cup gluten-free all-purpose flour
3/4 cup powdered sugar
2/3 cup almond flour
4 egg whites
1/3 cup melted butter

Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a mixing bowl, combine the gluten-free all-purpose flour, powdered sugar, and almond flour, mixing until well-blended.
Add the egg whites to the dry mixture one at a time, mixing thoroughly after each addition.
Pour in the melted butter and mix until the batter is smooth.
Lightly butter a muffin tin and spoon the batter evenly into the cups.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
Allow the financiers to cool in the tin for a few minutes before transferring them to a wire rack to cool completely. Enjoy!


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