Musical conversation

Brewery concert series welcomes folk duo Hildaland

By Michael Witthaus

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A wry and oft-repeated maxim at Berklee College of Music is that booking so many gigs that there’s no time for class is a worthy goal, even if it means not graduating. That was fiddler Louise Bichan’s plan when she arrived from Scotland in the mid-2010s, but the connections she made at the Boston school changed her mind.

“I was playing in a band that were kind of doing well and taking off back home when I left for Berklee and I planned to go back and rejoin after a year,” she said in a recent Zoom chat. “It didn’t work out that way; there were so many great people to learn from and to play with … there was so much I wanted to get out of it. So I ended up staying.”

One of the musicians Bichan met was mandolin player Ethan Setiawan. The two became members of Corner House, a four-piece band that formed at Berklee and had their first gig at the 2017 Fresh Grass Festival in the Berkshires. In 2019, they spun off as Hildaland, taking their name from a Scottish folk tale about shape-shifting seals.

Setiawan, during the same Zoom call, said the intimacy of a duo appealed to them. “We can be more improvisational and spontaneous within the framework that we’ve created in these songs and tunes because there’s one line of communication.” A band, on the other hand? “It’s exponential.”

Bichan, a native of Scotland’s Orkney Islands, and Indiana-born Setiawan carry on a lovely musical conversation. In 2019 they recorded an EP, less a debut than an attempt at defining themselves.

“We don’t really sound much like that anymore,” Setiawan said. “It was very experimental … just kind of us playing around.”

Synthesizing those rough beginnings with a few years playing together led to Sule Skerry, an 11-song album that includes reworked traditional tunes like the lovely title track, and uplifting originals. “Silver Dollar,” Bichan’s instrumental tribute to her aunt and uncle’s 25th wedding anniversary, is a standout.

Another gem is Setiawan’s “Weezy & Vera,” with ebullient interplay between the two. There are also covers of Gillian Welch’s “Everything Is Free” and “Fall On My Knees,” a standard that’s been done by Red Clay Ramblers, The Freight Hoppers and others, along with a lush interpretation of the 19th-century Scottish love poem “Ettrick.”

“Our main inspiration comes from my Scottish roots and Ethan’s roots in old-time American and maybe a little bluegrass — and Ethan also is a great jazz musician,” Bichan said. “And the more we’ve worked up new material and played together, the more we’ve refined what our sound is.”

Innovative Celtic harpist and Berklee instructor Maeve Gilchrist was a helpful mentor early on. They worked together in the studio on Corner House’s debut LP.

“Maeve is such a complete musician; we talked about many different aspects of tune writing,” Setiawan said. “She has such a grasp of harmony, and a great sense of playing a melody.”

Hildaland will perform at Blasty Bough Brewing in Epsom on April 18, part of the ongoing Blasty Trad roots music series spearheaded by brewery head Dave Stewart. Bichan performed there a few years back with another band. Surprisingly, she learned about the local series, which began in 2018, while playing overseas.

“David’s daughter Madeline is a great fiddle player; we met in Glasgow, where I used to live,” she said. “We did a live session at BBC Radio Scotland. It was four of us, each in a corner of a big studio; we went around the room and everyone played something. That’s how we met.”

Bichan and Setiawan, who live together in Cornish, Maine, are working on an EP to follow up Sule Skerry.

“It goes back to our tune playing roots,” Setiawan said of the songs, which have developed during their live shows. “That will be coming out later this year. Then we definitely have an eye towards the next sort of full record that will have some more songs and a mix of things.”

Hildaland

When: Friday, April 18, 7 p.m.
Where: Blasty Bough Brewing Co., 3 Griffin Road, Epsom
Tickets: $30 and up at cocoatickets.com

Featured photo. Hildaland. Courtesy photo.

Doughnut batter in a waffle iron

New Dessert House satisfies a sweet tooth

By John Fladd

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Have you ever eaten a doughnut and thought to yourself, “This is excellent. I really, really like doughnuts, but I think it would be better if it were crispier, somehow.”?

Tanya Grenier has you covered.

She and her husband are the brains behind Tanya’s Waffle-Donuts. The Boscawen businesswoman described her product this way: “They look like a waffle,” she said. “They taste like a doughnut, but they’re not deep fried. They’re all made from homemade recipes, made from scratch.”

The idea for the waffle-doughnut came from a family trip, Grenier recalled.

“We were at an Airbnb with our daughter and our son-in-law,” she said. Her daughter asked her dad if he could make doughnuts for breakfast. “So they had all the ingredients to make them, but we didn’t check and they ended up not having oil. So we were like, ‘Oh, we can’t deep fry them.’ We ended up making pancakes with the batter. They looked like a pancake in a pan, but they tasted like a doughnut. They were amazing, but then my husband said, ‘You know what would be really cool, though? If it was the shape of a waffle it would be a little easier to pick up and like look really cool with a waffle shape.’”

A waffle donut covered in frosting and sprinkles.
Courtesy photo.

The Greniers spent three years developing a recipe that would work.

“Basically,” Tanya said, “you can’t use a waffle recipe or a doughnut recipe. What you need to do is you’ve got to kind of combine them to get them to rise because most doughnut recipes are made to be deep-fried, and these are not.” Eventually, she said, the recipe came together. “The best part of these is they have less sugar than a regular doughnut, but they still taste just like a doughnut, but they’re not greasy. They’re light and fluffy. They’re not fried in oil at all. They’re all made in a waffle iron.”

Once the base recipe was worked out, the Greniers were able to develop a large number of variations on the doughnuts themselves, and an equally large number of frosting types, which have lent themselves to many combinations.

“We make a cake waffle doughnut, which is our original waffle doughnut,” Tanya said. “It has a little bit of cinnamon, a little bit of nutmeg. We make a chocolate waffle doughnut, which is like a milk chocolate, almost — not a dark chocolate but like a milk chocolate doughnut. We make maple doughnuts and apple doughnuts. We’ve done banana doughnuts. We do a cornbread waffle doughnut. We do a potato waffle doughnut. We do carrot cake ones.”

The Greniers package some waffle-doughnuts for individual sale, but they are happiest when they serve them hot and crispy from their food truck.

“The food truck is called the Waffle Donut Wagon,” Grenier said, “and then when we sell them pre-packaged it’s called Tanya’s Homemade Waffle Donut. We usually only sell [the individually wrapped ones] at special indoor craft events. We’ve done horse shows, we’ve done weddings, birthdays, bridal showers, pretty much anything you can think of. We do that with the truck just because we can offer food items plus they’re hot off the press as we call it. We cook them to order so they get them hot off the press with everything like the frosting is like put right on top melted.”

Tanya’s Waffle Donuts and the Waffle Donut Wagon

Tanya’s Waffle Donuts and the Waffle Donut Wagon can be found at events throughout New Hampshire and can cater any event. Call 785-6283 for more information, or search for “Waffle Donut Wagon” on Facebook or @waffledonutwagon on Instagram.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Two-lane runway

Book recounts the roots of Manchester Airport

By Michael Witthaus

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Charles Lindbergh’s historic solo flight across the Atlantic in 1927 was followed by a surge of interest in aviation. This so-called “Lindbergh Boom” inspired construction of a pair of runways on what’s now Manchester-Boston Regional Airport. A hangar and administrative building were added in the 1930s, and it became an Army base as World War II approached.

Today few physical traces of this history remain. Leah Dearborn, an Associate Director at Aviation Museum of New Hampshire, set out to find and document memories of Grenier Field, as the facility came to be known. Grenier Air Base: A Beacon on the Home Front was published late last year.

Dearborn will talk about her book and take questions during an April 18 appearance at the Bookery in Manchester. In a recent phone interview she shared her motivations for writing it, along with some of the fascinating things learned during her research.

“It’s an interesting era in history, and also one that’s slipping by us very quickly,” she said. “I think part of this project was driven by the urgency of some of this history. If we don’t do something about it right now, the remaining people who can tell us about it might not be able to in the near future.”

The story begins with a humorous twist: Civic rivalry is a big reason why the airfield came to be in the first place.

“Charles Lindbergh was doing a tour across the United States, and when he got to Manchester there wasn’t an airport,” Dearborn said. “So he had to skip Manchester and go to Concord. That spurred the movement for Manchester Airport to be built; I like to call it a spite airport.”

Many of those interviewed for the book were children during the war years, and their recollections were surprising. Flying was still relatively new, and accidents were frequent. In fact, American fatalities in flight training were significantly higher than those sustained in air combat.

“By 1943, there were six fatal training accidents per day,” Dearborn said.

Many crashes happened at Grenier, she continued. “Local kids would bike out to them, just out of curiosity … and they’d pull little souvenirs off the plane. Just learning about the childhood of these local kids who spent all their time at the base or around it, watching from afar, was pretty interesting.”

The base was named for Second Lieutenant Jean Grenier, a Manchester native who crashed in Utah while scouting a flight route. He was one of many Army pilots who quickly took over commercial mail delivery following the so-called Airmail Scandal in 1934. A rapid handoff of responsibilities, coupled with a brutal winter, resulted in many flying deaths.

“This was being done mainly by pilots with very limited experience, in open cockpit aircraft, in some of the worst weather in decades,” Dearborn said. “A lot of them lost their lives in the few months that this was planned, and Jean Grenier was, unfortunately, one of those.”

As Dearborn researched her book, a group of museum volunteers were engaged in reprocessing the archives. “When they found something in their effort that might connect back to what I was doing, they would leave it on my desk,” she recalled. “I’d walk in in the morning and find this stack of paper … that was really helpful.”

Among the valuable finds was a trove of newspaper clippings spanning the war’s early years to the 1950s. “Somebody at Grenier in the military was keeping tabs on the war abroad,” Dearborn said. “Anytime a New Hampshire soldier … made the news, somebody at a desk was taking a pair of scissors and cutting these out.”

At the Bookery, Dearborn will dive into favorite Grenier memories and display some photos. However, the best moments frequently happen after her presentation.

“People come with their own stories, and sometimes that’s where I get the best leads for new writing projects,” she said. “I ended up talking to a man who fought during the Battle of the Bulge for this book, and that’s exactly how I met him. I gave a talk on the history of ballooning, and a friend of his came up at the end and said, ‘You really ought to talk to this guy, he witnessed the Hindenburg fly over New England.’ Stuff like that is pretty invaluable.”

Grenier Air Base: A Beacon on the Home Front w/ author Leah Dearborn

When: Friday, April 18, 5-7 p.m.
Where: Bookery, 844 Elm St., Manchester,
Tickets: free; reserve at bookerymht.com

Featured photo: Leah Dearborn. Courtesy photo.

The Big Cookie

The art of supersizing your favorite treat

By John Fladd

[email protected]

If you buy a cookie from a bakery, chances are you’re getting a cookie considerably bigger than you’d get from a supermarket box or even than you’d make at home.

For Kat Forkey, a pastry chef at The Bakeshop on Kelley Street in Manchester, even the “little” cookies are still pretty substantial.

“We [bake cookies] that are 5 to 6 inches across,” she said, “but we can make much bigger ones for cookie cakes. Those are a little bit thicker and we decorate them kind of like the old like Mrs. Fields cookies where you get them decorated with ‘Happy Birthday.’ They’re a good height, so they can be sliced like a cake. So if people don’t like cakes they can have cookie cakes.”

Forkey said the cookie cakes can be as wide as or wider than a traditional birthday cake.

Baking a cake-sized cookie

Kat Forkey advised against trying to bake extremely large cookies on a traditional sheet pan. She generally bakes them in a cake pan or in a spring-form pan.

“We don’t like our cookies thin here,” she said, “so [a cake pan makes them] nice and thick like a good 1 or 2 inches.” The other secret to baking a super-large cookie, she said, is giving it plenty of time to cool before removing it from the pan.

“Usually we try to let it cool overnight if we can. Because what really happens is the chocolate gets all gooey. You don’t want the frosting to melt on there because then it’s just a big hot mess.”

“We can do different sizes,” she said, “so for us, because a lot of our cakes are by the amount of people you want to feed, we can do them different sizes too, like a 6-inch, an 8-inch, a 10-inch or even bigger.”

Forkey said that, big or gigantic, her most popular cookies are the traditional ones.

“I would say chocolate chip or M&M cookies are the most popular,” she said. She only bakes — it’s tempting to say a handful, but even one big cookie is a handful — a modest number of cookies each day. Most customers buy one at a time, she said, and six to 12 of each variety are enough to sell in a day. By baking small batches, she said, she can rotate through her stock quickly and ensure each cookie is fresh when she sells it.

Chocolate chip cookies at Bagel Alley. Photo by John Fladd.
Chocolate chip cookies at Bagel Alley. Photo by John Fladd.

Brett Fleckner has a more stripped-down approach. He owns Bagel Alley in Nashua and focuses most of his energy on bagels.

“The cookies are a side thing that we do,” he said. “We make them big and that’s why they sell. The customers like them big. If they weren’t big, we wouldn’t sell as many.”

Fleckner only makes one kind of cookie. “We just do chocolate chip,” he said. “We used to do three kinds, but now we just do chocolate chip, nice and simple. We made it from scratch, with a traditional recipe, with shortening, brown sugar, and eggs.”

The dough for Bagel Alley cookies spreads out in the oven as the cookies bake. That’s on purpose, Fleckner said.

“They’re not real thick, because then they’d be either doughy or cakey. So I don’t want them to be thick. You want a little chew in the middle, and you don’t want it to fall apart.” Each cookie is 5 to 6 inches across, he said, and weighs about 7 ounces. He uses an ice cream scoop to measure the dough into 7-ounce portions. And, of course, they are thin, chewy in the center, and crispy on the edges.

Lighthouse Local in Bedford follows a different path. While not as wide as some other big cookies — maybe 4 inches or so across — theirs are about an inch thick. Trina Bird is the head baker.

“Our cookies are big,” she said. “We don’t skimp. They’re all thick. They’re all handmade.”

Brett Fleckner’s cookie advice

The only ingredient Fleckner uses in his cookies that you might not have in your pantry is cake flour. Just as bread flour has a high protein content to make bread chewy, cake flour — sometimes called pastry flour — has a low protein content to make baked goods tender.

He also advises keeping an eye on the cookies as they bake.
“Go by the look,” he said. It might be a good idea to take large cookies out of the oven just before they look dark enough.
“They’re going to keep cooking after they come out of the oven,” he said. Big cookies have more mass and hold onto residual heat more than little ones.

Bird and her staff spent a lot of time developing their cookie recipes to make sure every batch is nearly perfect. As long as conditions are the same and the recipes are followed to the letter, Bird said, the cookies are consistently excellent.

“All of our cookies are made in advance,” she said. “We scoop [the dough] out with ice cream scoops, and they go into the freezer. So that way, when they bake, they’re right from the freezer. So we have convection ovens, and they bake the perfect amount of time and they come out perfect.” Not only does freezing the cookie dough ensure that every cookie starts baking at the same temperature, she said, but it also keeps the dough from spreading too quickly in the oven. “You have to chill. Some cookies you can get away with not chilling, but most cookies you need to chill. You can kind of get away with it if you’re a home baker and you’re putting cornstarch in the dough [to stabilize it]. A lot of times those ones, they do it on purpose so you can bake them right away. But we don’t use cornstarch in our cookies. I have nothing against cornstarch. I love it. But not for cookies.”

Lighthouse Local bakes its cookies “low and slow”, Bird said. “At 300 degrees and for something like 15 minutes. Some cookies take a little longer, but most of them are right at around 15 minutes.

Bird said making her cookies big enough to share has been a priority from the beginning. “Everywhere I looked,” she remembered, “and every cookie that I wanted to eat was big. Bigger is always better for me and I can share it. I have a lot of children and they always want cookies, so I can buy less and then feed more.”

One of Bird’s standout big cookies is a thumbprint cookie the size of a tennis ball.

Cookies at The Bakeshop on Kelley Street. Photo by John Fladd.

“Our thumbprints are huge,” she said. “We make them with almond flour, because it keeps them super moist and it’s just better that way. We already had our base cookies and we wanted something new. We actually bought a giant box of almond meal by accident. We didn’t want it to go bad, so I was like, ‘Let’s make a thumbprint.’”

For Bird, one of the best things about the thumbprint cookie is its versatility.

“We can use rotating seasonal jams,” she said. “We’ve been doing raspberry and strawberry for a lot of the winter but now we have guava because we’re getting into the spring. We can do blueberry or we can do lemon curd — we can literally fill it with anything. I just wanted them big. They’re just awfully perfect.”

The thick chocolate chip cookies at Lighthouse Local use two different chocolates. “Inside, chocolate chips,” Bird said. “On the top, chunks of dark chocolate. So it’s semi, it’s dark, it’s milk, and it’s salted.”

The most popular cookie with children, she said, is the Pop Tart Cookie.

“We order Pop-Tarts in bulk and we just crumble them up and we put them in the base cookie with sprinkles, and kids love it. It’s actually one of my favorites too. It’s a fun one. We rotate out cookies. Our really popular one at Christmas is the molasses cookie. That’s my personal favorite, but that’s a winter thing. And we have to phase out snickerdoodles too.”

Because the cookies are so beautiful and look so good, Bird said, many customers buy them as gifts.

Getting thick, flat cookies

Trina Bird advises keeping a close eye on the butter and sugar as they blend together at the beginning of a recipe — a process called “creaming.”
“We are really careful not to over-cream our butter and our sugar together, because sometimes when you do that it melts the butter, so then when you bake the cookies they’re runny. Are they still delicious? Yes. But is it what I want to see? Absolutely not.”

“People can order them in advance, however many they need. So these 4-inch cookies are our standard size but a lot of times people will be like, ‘I do love them, but I don’t want them that big,’ so we can halve them or quarter them. We can make mini cookies or we can do half sizes and we do a lot of that for corporate events weddings, but like when they’re for gifts, yes, we’ll take them and we’ll put them in the individual sleeves and people will give them as gifts.”

“We label each of our batches with the name and who did them and the date so if somebody gets a cookie that’s not up to our standards, we know what went wrong,” Bird said. A well-made cookie will stay fresh for a surprisingly long time, though.

“I’d probably say you were looking at four days before they go stale,” she said. “And if you keep them in a bag, like a Ziploc bag, you’ll get over a week out of them. Anyone who’s keeping a cookie longer than a week has amazing amounts of self-control and I need to know how to do it because it’s not happening in my house.”

Maggie Josti is the owner of Maggie’s Munchies, a retail cookie manufacturer in Nashua. Her cookies, which are sold individually, are substantial.

Variety of cookies from Lighthouse Local. Courtesy photo.
Variety of cookies from Lighthouse Local. Courtesy photo.

“They’re all a quarter pound,” she said, “and we like them to be thick and chewy, so the girth is there, with a toasty outer layer. The width is anywhere between 4 and 5 inches, depending on how much they spread.” Because they are thick, the cookies are chewy in the middle but crispy everywhere else.

“The way that we describe it for people,” Josti said, “the best way to describe it, is thick and chewy with a toasty outer layer.”

Josti said the size of her cookies was a secondary consideration when she and her husband started the business.

“Anything that we’ve ever made from our bakery,” she said, “—because we used to make whoopie pies to start — but anything that we did, we made it large enough that you can enjoy it and feel satisfied and not feel like you need to eat like 20 cookies. Because of the quality of the ingredients that we have, it doesn’t weigh you down so much that you can’t enjoy another one. Size wasn’t the main focus to begin with, but it’s just a pleasant characteristic of the product that we created that people seem to enjoy.”

Process versus ingredients

Maggie Josti said that a baker can use identical ingredients in two batches of cookies but end up with completely different products. Even if you don’t melt the butter by over-creaming it with sugar, it will add more air to the dough and change its texture.

“The difference between a cookie and a cake is that you just want to mix it until it’s combined, at least for the kind of cookies that we prefer. If you mix it too long, it aerates it too much and will give you an airier, lighter cookie, which is not what we would prefer. Also, when adding dry ingredients to wet ones, don’t over-mix the dough, which will develop gluten and make the cookies tough.”
“Always mix just to combine,” Josti said.

More important, Josti said, was perfecting the cookie-to-chocolate ratio.

“Anything that we make, I want to make sure it is something that I would want to eat myself,” she said. “So, when it came to the chocolate chips, I wanted to make sure that you had chocolate chips in every bite and not have any bites where there were no chocolate chips. So we basically just took a traditional New England recipe and we added a little bit extra.”

Maggie’s Munchies has five core cookies, with a seasonal sixth flavor.

“That way,” Josti said, “If you get a six-pack you can get one of every flavor. The five core flavors are chocolate chip, oatmeal raisin, molasses, double chocolate peanut butter, and sugar cookies. Those are the ones you can always find from us and we’ll be rotating through different seasonal ones depending on the season.

One of the things Josti likes about cookies of any size is that they are an expression of culture.

“The cool part about being in New England is that it’s a melting pot, right?” she asked. “So you have everyone’s backgrounds coming together. And I think that’s what makes this so fun is that yes, we have our classic flavors that are traditional to New England, [and] there are so many different kinds of cookies and you can enjoy them all.”

Ogre Chip 1000 at Lickee’s & Chewy’s Candies & Creamery. Courtesy photo.
Ogre Chip 1000 at Lickee’s & Chewy’s Candies & Creamery. Courtesy photo.

Do an internet search for “BIG COOKIE, NEW HAMPSHIRE”, and you are likely to fall down a rabbit hole of food blogs, discussion boards and even conspiracy theories. But dig deep enough and you will find the Ogre Chip 1000, arguably the platonic ideal of a Big Cookie.

Made and sold by Lickee’s & Chewy’s Candies & Creamery in Dover, the OC1K weighs half a pound and contains a staggering number of chocolate chips per cookie.

Chris Guerrette is the owner and operator of Lickee’s & Chewy’s. He said the goal was for the Ogre Chip 1000 to be a symbol of his candy shop.

“We wanted to develop a very large cookie that was just a chocolate chip cookie,” he said, “but that kind of represented all the cool flavors we are able to create here. We decided to use what are called 10,000-count chips. These are extremely tiny chocolate chips and that resulted in well over 1,000 chocolate chips in every single cookie. Each one of them is about a half a pound and about an inch and a half to 2 inches tall because of the way we bake them.”

Unlike many Big Cookie bakers, Guerrette is a fan of a domed cookie.

Chris Guerrette’s tip for making the best chocolate chip cookies

Use the highest-quality chocolate you can find.
“The chocolate that we use is a premium top-of-the-line chocolate,” Guerrette said. “It’s not just a generic chocolate chip. It’s actually the same chocolate we use to make all of our gourmet chocolates here. We actually use two types of chocolate in [the cookies]. One of them is a semi-sweet with a cocoa percentage between 50 and 60 percent, and a second one that’s a little bit darker and a little larger. That one is 65 percent.”

“They’re tall; they kind of look like muffin tops. A lot of people ask if there’s something in the center. We cook them to look like that,” Guerrette said. His goal was the elusive tender-in-the-middle-crispy-along-the-edges texture.

“We spent maybe two months testing different recipes, making samples, and then finally settled on this recipe and we’ve been making it ever since. It got to the point where I didn’t want to try a single other chocolate chip cookie because I was tasting two or three batches a day at one point. I mean, the slightest thing, butter, sugar, refrigerated, non-refrigerated, as far as before baking, all sorts of testing until we were really happy with it.

Roan Brantley is a professional cook and a passionate home baker. She sees big cookies as something quintessentially American.

“I feel like Americans are just kind of generally drawn to big things,” she said. I feel like people are impressed by the sheer size of things”

Butterscotch and Potato Chip Big Cookies. Photo by John Fladd.
Butterscotch and Potato Chip Big Cookies. Photo by John Fladd.

Although she likes big cookies, size is not as important to Brantly as consistency.

“Uniformity is big,” she said. “I would recommend weighing the dough to make sure that you’re getting similar sizes. There’s really good hacks on getting them all nice and round if that’s a problem. I envy the people who manage to make extremely tall cookies. I can’t figure it out, so unless you’re sticking a marshmallow in the middle or something, I don’t know how we’re getting all that height in cookies.”

Brantley sees cookies as a glue that strengthens relationships between people.

“I really enjoy making snickerdoodles,” she said, “because that’s all of my friends’ favorites. So every time I’m making a few trays of them I know I’m about to make like 20 people really happy. I think that we should be sharing more of them. Bake more cookies. Bring them to your neighbors. Bring them to your friends.”

Roan Brantley’s cookie hack

“Chill your dough for 24 hours. It makes a world of difference. A lot of people don’t really acknowledge quite how much of a difference it makes, but your cookie’s just going to have such a better texture if you chill it and wait the full day. I think it definitely gives everything a chance to blend a bit more, to meld those flavors together as well, along with letting the dough hydrate and that gluten give it that chew and hold it together nicely.”

A Cookie Recipe to Build Friendships On – Butterscotch and Potato Chip Big Cookies

This is a recipe adapted from one by Christina Tosi of Milk Bar.

150 grams (about 90 percent of a 7-ounce bag) of salt and pepper kettle chips, crushed into cornflake-sized pieces – so, eat a handful of chips, then pour the rest into a bowl and crush them lightly with your fist

1 cup (two sticks) butter

1¼ cups (247 g) sugar

2/3 cup (132 g) brown sugar

1 large egg

1 Tablespoon good scotch – I like Glenlivet

1¾ cups (210 g) all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder – this is a very small amount; these are going to be large, thin cookies

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1¼ teaspoons coarse salt

1¼ cups (125 g) mini marshmallows – about half a bag

2/3 cup (122 g) mini chocolate chips

10½ ounces (300 g) butterscotch hard candies

Break up the butterscotch candies. This will be the most tedious part of this recipe. After a lot of experimentation I’ve found that the most efficient way to do this is to lay five to 10 of the wrapped candies on your counter and tap each of them with something heavy — in my case the pestle from my largest mortar and pestle, which is the rough size and shape of a billy club. The idea here is to break each candy into three or four pieces, not to crush it to powder. Empty the pieces from their wrappers into a cereal-sized bowl. If you have a young but greedy child, offer to pay them one cent for each wrapper they empty. This will speed things along, and if they have the attention span to stick with it, it will set you back about three bucks.

Cream the butter and sugars together, then whip on high speed for several minutes, until the mixture is light and fluffy. These cookies are going to spread out very thin, so beating air into the dough will help equalize things.

Add the egg and the scotch, and whip on high speed for another few minutes. You will probably want to scrape down the sides of the bowl at some point during this process. These cookies are complicated enough; they don’t need the emotional bitterness of cookie dough that got stuck to the side of the bowl and felt left out.

Mix in the dry ingredients — the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Start slowly, or they will puff out and cover you and your counter with flour, leaving you looking like a character from a classic Warner Bros. cartoon. You’re mixing this until it just barely comes together into a “shaggy” dough.

Mix in the butterscotch pieces, the marshmallows, the chocolate chips and the potato chip pieces. If you have a modest-sized mixer, the bowl may come alarmingly close to being completely full. Don’t panic. Mix things together as well as you can.

Form the dough into 2-inch balls and place on a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone mat, then flatten them slightly into small mutant hockey pucks. Cover them with plastic wrap and chill them for at least an hour.

(At this point, you might have some leftover debris in the bottom of your bowl that wasn’t doughy enough to form into balls. You can bake this at 350°F for about 10 minutes to make a crumbly topping for ice cream. You won’t be sorry.)

Place four or five cookie pucks on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone mat, spread as far apart as possible — they will spread a great deal. Bake at 350°F for about 12 minutes. When you take them out of the oven, they will look like a mess. Don’t panic. Let them cool entirely before removing them from the pan. If, unlike me, you don’t own an unreasonable number of baking sheets, when the cookies have cooled for 10 minutes or so, gently slide the parchment paper onto a cool counter, and lay down a new piece of parchment on the baking sheet.

These cookies require a bit of effort to make the first time around, but they are totally worth it. They are outrageously thin, yet chunky; crispy along the edges, but bendy and chewy. The butterscotch is shockingly good but totally works as a baked good. Making these will become an event.

Mentioned spots offering a big cookie

The Bakeshop on Kelley Street (171 Kelley St., Manchester, 624-3500, thebakeshoponkelleystreet.com) is open Thursdays and Fridays from 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Bagel Alley (1 Eldridge St., Nashua, 882-9343) is open Monday through Friday from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m., Saturdays from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Sundays from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Lighthouse Local (21 Kilton Road, Bedford, 716-6983, lighthouse-local.com) is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and weekends from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Maggie’s Munchies (therealmaggiesmunchies.com) cookies are available online and at events.

Lickee’s & Chewy’s Candies & Creamery (53 Washington St., Dover, 343-1799, lickeesnchewys.com) is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturdays 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sundays 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. According to Owner Chris Guerrette, customers will soon be able to order the Ogre Chips 1,000 cookie from his new website, ogrechocolates.com.

This Week 25/04/17

Friday, April 18

Chunky’s Cinema Pub (707 Huse Road, Manchester, 206-3888, chunkys.com) hosts a Gilligan’s Island Paint Night this evening beginning at 7:30 p.m. Participants will be guided through painting an island landscape, looking out at the ocean, while reruns of the beloved 1960s television seriesGilligan’s Islandplay on the big screen in the background. Cocktails and snacks will be available, and there will be music to fit the evening. Tickets are $45 each.

Friday, April 18

The Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St. in Manchester; palacetheatre.org) presentsJesus Christ Superstar beginning tonight through May 11, Fridays through Sundays plus Thursday, May 8.

Friday, April18

Famed storyteller Garrison Keillor will take the stage at the Nashua Center for the Arts (201 Main St., Nashua, 800-657-8774, nashuacenterforthearts.com) tonight at 7:30 p.m. for an evening of stand-up, storytelling, audience song, and poetry. One man, one microphone. Tickets start at $29 .

Friday, April 18

The Salem Animal Rescue League (4 Sarl Drive, Salem, 893-3210, sarlnh.org) hosts an evening of musical bingo tonight at the Windham Country Club (1 Country Club Road, Windham, 434-2093, windhamcc.com) beginning at 7 p.m. Tickets are $60 each and include dinner, one drink and one Bingo card per game. Purchase tickets at tinyurl.com/SARLMusicBingo.

Saturday, April 19

Symphony NH presents a performance at the Nashua Center for the Arts (201 Main St, Nashua, 800-657-8774, nashuacenterforthearts.com) tonight at 7:30 p.m., consisting entirely of overtures. Appropriately titled “It’s All Overtures,” this show will feature some of the most well-known overtures, ranging from Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro to Leonard Bernstein’s West Side Story. Tickets start at $32 through the Center’s website.

Wednesday, April 23

Catch “A Tribute to Duke Ellington with the Aardvark Orchestra,” a free presentation of the Walker Lecture series, tonight at 7:30 p.m. at the Concord City Auditorium (2 Prince St. in Concord). Doors open at 7 p.m.; see walkerlecture.org. This event is free and open to the public.

Wednesday, April 23

Celebrate “25 years of ska punk party mayhem” with The Planet Smashers along with PWRUP and Threat Level Burgundy tonight at 7 p.m. at Jewel Music Venue (61 Canal St. in Manchester). Find them on Facebook

Save the Date! Saturday, April 26

Saturday, April 26, is Independent Book Store Day. Offerings usually include previews of upcoming books as well as in-store celebrations. Bookery (844 Elm St. in Manchester; bookerymht.com) has plans for local authors, giveaways, discounts, live music and more, according to an email from the store. Gibson’s Bookstore (45 S. Main St. in Concord; gibsonsbookestore.com) is also making plans, which will include “exclusive merch, giveaways, maybe even some games and activities,” according to an email from the store. Check with your favorite indie bookstore for updates.

Featured photo: Independent Bookstore Day Logo.

News & Notes 25/04/17

Senate race update

Former Governor Chris Sununu told WMUR that he will not run for the U.S. Senate seat in 2026. The race will have no incumbent for the seat as Sen. Jeanne Shaheen has said she will not run for reelection. U.S. Rep. Chris Pappas, a Democrat, announced his campaign for the seat in early April. Sununu, a Republican, said the commitment to serve in the Senate was “not right for my family at this time,” according to a report by Adam Sexton on WMUR on April 8. See wmur.com.

Family meal

The Mast Road Community Market is offering a nonperishable meal kit for Pinardville families who need a meal as part of their “Meal Kit Program,” according to mrcm-nh.com/meal-kit-program. Upcoming distribution days are Thursdays, April 17, April 24 and May 1, from 5 to 6 p.m. at Jacques Flower Shop, 712 Mast Road in Manchester. No preregistration is required, participants are asked to fill out a registration form at the site, according to the website, where you can find more information about receiving or donating to a meal kit.

Center center

The Center for the Arts, a New London-based organization with arts programming in for the Lake Sunapee Region, celebrated the grand opening of its Gallery & Studio and Creative Classroom at 428 Main St. in New London, according to a press release. The Center for the Arts officially opened its new center on April 10 and the gallery currently exhibits art from more than 30 local artists on the theme of spring, the release said. See centerfortheartsnh.org.

Cats prez leaves

Rick Brenner, the New Hampshire Fisher Cats president, is leaving the organization to focus on teaching at Plymouth State University, according to a Fisher Cats press release. His final day with the Fisher Cats will be May 1, the release said. Brenner “is the Assistant Professor of Practice, as well as the Director of the Sales Institute, in the School of Business at Plymouth State University in Plymouth, New Hampshire. He began in his roles at Plymouth State in August 2024,” the release said.

TB testing

The New Hampshire Department of Health and Human Services and the Manchester Health Department held additional testing clinics for people who might have been exposed to a person with tuberculosis who visited the Families in Transition Adult Shelter and 1269 Cafe in Manchester in January, according to a press release. People without a primary care provider can call 211 for information on testing and treatment, the release said. Call 271-4496 or go to the DHHS TB webpage, at dhhs.nh.gov/programs-services/disease-prevention/infectious-disease-control/tuberculosis-tb, for more information.

Concord’s Giant Indoor Yard Sale is slated for Saturday, April 19, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. at Everett Arena (15 Loudon Road in Concord). Admission is $5 per adult. Find the event’s page on Facebook.

The University of New Hampshire Durham will hold the Nossrat Yassini Poetry Festival on Saturday, April 19, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. The free festival features readings, workshops, a small press fair, performances, a celebration of the Nossrat Yassini Poetry Prize and the Granite State Poetry prize and more. See unhpoetry.com.

Milford Drive-In (531 Elm St., Milford, milforddrivein.com) is slated to open for the season this weekend, with shows Friday, April 18, and Saturday, April 19. The scheduled double-feature screenings are A Minecraft Movie and Paddington in Peru on Screen 1 and Sinners and One of Them Days on Screen 2.

Poet Liane St. Laurent will read her poems followed by an open mic on Saturday, April 19, at 2 p.m. at Balin Books, 375 Amherst St. in Nashua, balinbooks.com. St. Laurent did a Touchstone Talk for the Poetry Society of New Hampshire in February; listen to it at psnh.org/touchstone-talk-liane-st-laurent-interview.

New Hampshire Poet Laureate Jennifer Militello will speak at the Monadnock Writers’ Group meeting on Saturday, April 19, at 9:45 a.m. at the Peterborough Town Library, 2 Concord St. in Peterborough. The event is free and open to the public. See modnadnockwriters.org.

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