The Weekly Dish 23/11/23

News from the local food scene

Breakfast and dinner with Santa: Have breakfast with Santa at Hampshire Hills Athletic Club (50 Emerson Road, Milford) on Saturday, Dec. 9, from 8 to 11 a.m. and dinner on Sunday, Dec. 10, or Monday, Dec. 11, from 5 to 8 p.m. The breakfast buffet includes options such as French toast sticks, muffins, fresh fruit and avocado toast. Tickets are $25 for adults and $12 for children under 12. The dinner buffet offers fried chicken, barbecue short ribs, broccolini and cheese, mac and cheese and a dessert bar. Tickets are $30 for adults and $15 for children under 12. Visit hampshirehills.com.

Calumet bourbon dinner: Enjoy a five-course dinner with five bourbon expressions on Tuesday, Dec. 12, at 6:30 p.m. at Ya Mas Greek Taverna & Bar (275 Rockingham Park Blvd., Salem). On the menu are charred heirloom beets, blackened pan-seared salmon, chicken tiki masala and a berry tart. Tickets start at $125 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

Holiday recipes: On Wednesday, Dec. 13, LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst) hosts a cooking with wine class featuring holiday recipes including a greeting eggnog cocktail, candied kielbasa, deviled eggs with LaBelle Seyval Blanc filling, LaBelle red wine caramelized onion dip, baked brie with LaBelle red wine fruit compote and LaBelle wine pairings (riesling, cranberry riesling and malbec). Chefs will make the meals in front of you and you’ll be sent home with a recipe card. Tickets start at $43.40 and can be purchased at eventbrite.com.

El Diablo

This is a classic tequila drink.

This time, I’ve substituted mezcal for tequila, because I have a really nice bottle of Siete Misterios that is making me very happy. Mezcal is in the same family as tequila and works nicely in this particular cocktail. In place of the traditional crème de cassis, I’ve used sloe gin. All of this is slightly beside the point, because the star player here, the lynchpin that holds everything together and keeps it from dissolving into a puddle of entropy, is the ginger beer.

If you are new to the world of ginger beer, you could be forgiven for supposing that it is more or less the same as ginger ale. “Beer/ale,” you might say to yourself, “Tomato/tomahto.”

This would be a mistake.

Ginger ale is what your mom brought you when you were sick, to help calm your stomach. It’s what you drink when you want a soda that doesn’t make any demands on you. It might be lovely, but it will always be mild and unassuming. That’s sort of its whole point.

A good ginger beer, on the other hand, is anything but mild. If you ever popped open a bottle of ginger beer thinking it was ginger ale and took a big gulp of it to cure your hiccups, you’d definitely get rid of them, and maybe make your heart seize up for a second.

Ginger beer is all about the ginger.

“OK,” I hear you say, “I like ginger snaps and gingerbread; I really don’t think this is a big deal.”

All right, the next time you go to a juice bar, ask the juice barista (or whatever the technical name for a juice jockey is) to give you a straight shot of ginger juice. She will raise her eyebrow but will do her thing behind the counter and hand you a shot glass with a milky, beige liquid in it. Don’t sip it. Throw that baby down your throat.

It will change your point of view so profoundly that you might quit your job and become a matador. (It’s delicious and very spicy.)

Really good Caribbean ginger beers will often add a little cayenne to intensify the experience a little bit. Do yourself a favor and go to a bodega and pick up a couple bottles of the good stuff for this drink. You’ll be glad you did.

1½ ounces good tequila or mezcal – right now I’m really enjoying Siete Misterios

½ ounce sloe gin

½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice

3 to 4 ounces excellent ginger beer

Mix the mezcal, lime juice and sloe gin in a cocktail shaker with ice.

Shake for about 30 seconds, then strain into a Collins glass, over fresh ice.

Top off with excellent, just opened ginger beer. Stir with a chopstick.

The ginger beer really is the star of this show, with the mezcal or tequila playing a strong supporting role. The spiciness of the ginger stands up to the smokiness and bite of the tequila. The lime juice brings the acidity that this combination needs. The sloe gin adds color and the faintest hint of fruitiness.

This is the drink that you would be drinking all the time, if you had made some different life choices at a couple of critical times in your youth.

John Fladd is a veteran Hippo writer, a father, writer and cocktail enthusiast, living in New Hampshire.

Featured photo: El Diablo. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Kyle Burnett

Kyle Burnett’s passion for cooking developed during his time at Lakes Region Technology Center, where he took culinary classes. Growing up, his mother wasn’t much of a cook, which inspired him to learn for himself. Since April of this year he has been working at Sonny’s Tavern in Dover, where is an executive chef for the first time in his career.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A comfy pair of shoes. When you’re on your feet for 10-plus hours a day, they are essential.

What would you have for your last meal?

A homemade Hawaiian pizza.

What is your favorite local eatery?

If I had to pick one it would definitely be Hong Asian Noodle Bar in Dover.

Name a celebrity you would like to see eating in your restaurant?

I would definitely enjoy seeing Matthew Lillard eating something I’ve made.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

My personal favorite is the short rib risotto. It definitely hits the spot on some of the colder nights.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

The use of micro greens as garnish for food.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Chicken pot pie, mostly because it’s my wife’s favorite and I enjoy cooking for her.

Crab cakes
From the Kitchen of Kyle Burnett

1 pound of crab meat
½ cup of corn
1 red onion
1 cup bread crumbs
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup cilantro
1 teaspoon cayenne
2 Tablespoons garlic powder
2 Tablespoons onion powder
2 Tablespoons paprika
1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 eggs

Finely chop red onion and cilantro. Mix together mayonnaise, corn, red onion, cilantro, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, and egg. Mix until well combined. Gently fold in crab meat. Form into 1½-ounce portions and press into a round coin shape.
Pan sear on medium heat with just enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan until browned on one side, then flip over and cook the other side.

Featured photo: Kyle Burnett, executive chef at Sonny’s Tavern. Courtesy photo.

Out with the old, in with the new

815 Cocktails and Provisions in Manchester has reopened

815 Cocktails and Provisions in Manchester reopened its doors this September after closing to undergo renovations, now having officially retired its speakeasy style for a modern approach with a more functional open space and the same classic cocktails.

After a combined 30-plus years of bartending experience, Sarah Maillet and Ryan McCabe originally opened 815 back in 2015.

“We wanted it to be more of a relaxing place where people could come, enjoy and have classic cocktails,” Maillet said. “It has always been in our mind an ode to where bartending began and where it is today.”

The duo spent months researching the market and classic cocktails while trying all kinds of spirits they had never heard of, to create their own cocktail menu that now consists of drinks like Starr Gazer, with Bacardi rum, raspberry liqueur, lychee, lime, demerara and grapefruit bitters, and 815 Old Fashioned with Nebco bourbon, demerara, bitters, orange peel and luxardo cherry. Provisions include flatbreads, such as tomato burrata and pimento pork, salads, tacos, like mushroom carnitas and Brooklyn bodega, a charcuterie and cheese board and more.

“We decided to go back to the old speakeasy theme,” Maillet said. “The entrance was a little bit secretive, there was a phone booth in the hall and there were sliding fake brick walls so it didn’t look like there was an actual restaurant or bar behind it.” Patrons would enter the phone booth, press the button and be asked for that week’s password, which would be posted on 815’s social media pages. After about four years, the password system proved to be a hassle.

“There were always techy kinds of issues,” Maillet said. “I started to feel like, as far as locals go, it wasn’t appealing for them to wander into their local restaurant or bar if they had to jump through hoops to look up a password every week.”

They decided to do away with the password on weekdays, saving it exclusively for weekends. This worked for a while, the speakeasy aspect making 815 a weekend destination theme, but with the arrival of Covid things were complicated further.

“I told Ryan, if there’s ever a time when we can change something and not have to explain it to anybody, now’s the time,” Maillet said. “So at that point we decided to get rid of the password speakeasy aspect of 815, and not just [for] the fact that we were changing and evolving, but it would have been an absolute nightmare … if we had to go into the phone booth … and clean and sanitize it.”

When they first established 815, the pair made do with the layout of the bar and worked with what they had. After occupying the space for several years, they had a better idea of what would ideally work best for them. With the bar needing new subfloors, they decided to take this as an opportunity to renovate, revamp and rebrand 815 entirely, building a bigger kitchen and more comfortable bar, adorning the walls with pictures and murals, removing bulky furniture and doing away altogether with the speakeasy aspect.

Despite the changes, 815 is still the same at its core, continuing to serve cocktails that are both classic and creative.

“I’ve never really let go of that creativity,” Maillet said. “I have an idea of what I like the cocktail menu to look like and keeping it balanced … and I like to think that I have a decent amount of experience under my belt to make a balanced menu and things that people enjoy, that are fun, unique, … approachable, … adventurous, whatever the case may be.”

815 Cocktails and Provisions
Where: 815 Elm St., Manchester
When: Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight.

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of 815 Cocktails & Provisions.

The Weekly Dish 23/11/16

News from the local food scene

Bottle signing with Robert Irvine: Celebrity chef Robert Irvine will be at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlet in Bedford (9 Leavy Drive) on Friday, Nov. 17, from 2 to 4 p.m. for a bottle signing.Featured products include Irvine’s Precision Vodka and Irvine’s American Dry Gin. Visit eventbrite to reserve your spot.

Tour of French wines: Tour the flavors of France and learn about the history and culture of French wine making with wine expert Elizabeth Schneider and Serge from Serge Dore Selections on Saturday, Nov. 18, from 2 to 3 p.m. at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlet in Nashua (Willow Spring Plaza, 294 Daniel Webster Hwy.). Tickets are $12 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

Italian feast: The Hills Restaurant at Hampshire Hills Athletic Club (50 Emerson Road, Milford) is hosting an Italian feast on Wednesday, Nov. 22, serving your choice of Caesar salad or Italian wedding soup, with entrees being eggplant Parmesan or chicken Parmesan over linguine, meatballs and Italian sausage with linguine, and fettuccine alfredo. For dessert, choose tiramisu or limoncello cake. The cost is $30 for adults and $15 for kids under 12. Visit hampshirehills.com.

Holiday tree lighting and supper: Enjoy dinner, a tree lighting and a cash bar at The Barn at Pickering House (116 S. Main St., Wolfeboro) for their 6th annual holiday tree lighting innkeepers supper, featuring chef Krisztina Perron of the Wooden Spoon Catering Co., on Saturday, Nov. 25. Doors and the cash bar open at 5:30 p.m. with the tree lighting taking place at 6:30 p.m. and dinner at 6:45 to 8:30 p.m. Tickets are $75 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

Holiday chocolate: Tour the factory, taste the chocolate and decorate chocolate cabins under the guidance of experienced chocolatiers during the two-hour chocolate holiday cabin class at Van Otis Chocolates (341 Elm St., Manchester) on Saturday, Nov. 25. Class times are at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Tickets are $100 each and can be bought at eventbrite.com.

Hogwarts Yule Ball: Enjoy dinner and dancing at the Hogwarts Yule Ball at LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst) on Sunday, Dec. 3, from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. The four-course meal includes Cornish pasty paired with LaBelle Americus wine, Great Hall pumpkin bisque with LaBelle riesling wine, Yule Ball grilled pork chop with LaBelle Red Alchemy wine, and sticky toffee pudding paired with a Butterbeer cocktail. General admission tickets are $114.48 and you must be 21 years or older to attend. Get your tickets before they sell out on eventbrite.com.

Brunch and crafts: Paint your own New Hampshire-themed ornament with Sarah from S. Fenerty Art at Northwoods Brewing Co. (1334 First New Hampshire Turnpike, Northwood) on Sunday, Dec. 3. While your ornament dries, enjoy a breakfast buffet made in house, including quiche, scones, cinnamon rolls, crullers, sausage, bacon and more. Tickets start at $65 and can be purchased on eventbrite.com.

In the kitchen with Sam Slattery

Sam Slattery’s earliest memory of cooking is of standing on a chair in his kitchen while his father taught him to make eggs. At Alvirne High School he was a member of the culinary arts program, and he furthered his studies at Lakes Region Community College, where he earned an associate degree in culinary arts. Today he is the lead line cook at Stella Blu in Nashua, where he runs the weekly dessert specials and prepares charcuterie roll sushi and shucks oysters at the raw bar station on the weekends.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

KitchenAid mixer.

What would you have for your last meal?

Fried clams.

What is your favorite local eatery?

My favorite local eatery is probably a tie between the Himalayan Curry House in Nashua or the Tuckaway Tavern in Raymond.

Name a celebrity you would like to see eating in your restaurant?

Billy Strings, considering I’m a huge fan and if I’m not working at Stella on a Saturday night chances are I’m traveling to see my favorite band.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The pan-seared duck breast with sweet chili glaze.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

One food trend I’ve noticed across New England is birria tacos or burritos, both in food trucks and restaurant special sheets.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

French onion soup.

Corn flake fish tacos
From the kitchen of Sam Slattery

Haddock cut into 3-inch pieces
Corn tortillas

Breading:
3 cups corn flakes
1 cup sesame seeds
1 Tablespoon sugar
2 Tablespoons red pepper flakes

Coleslaw:
1 head red cabbage shredded
3 carrots shredded
2 cups frozen mango
2 jalapenos
1 cup rice wine vinegar

Cilantro lime crema:
1 lime zested and juiced
1 bunch of cilantro
1 cup sour cream
2 Tablespoons garlic powder
1 Tablespoon cumin
1 Tablespoon coriander
salt and pepper
Simmer mango, jalapeno and rice wine vinegar together until soft, blend on high until smooth, fold over shredded cabbage.

Bread haddock using a flour batter and the corn flake mix, then fry until 165 degrees internal temperature.
Blend all cilantro lime crema ingredients until smooth.

Toast tortillas in a pan or on a hot grill and assemble the tortilla with coleslaw, then fish, and top with crema.

Featured photo: Sam Slattery, lead line cook at Stella Blu. Courtesy photo.

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