Behind God’s Back

This is an extremely good cocktail, with an even better name.

  • ⅓ ounce cinnamon syrup (see below)
  • ¼ ounce orgeat (an almond syrup used in tropical drinks) – I buy mine online or at the liquor store
  • ½ ounce pineapple juice
  • ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
  • 2 ounces golden rum – I used Planteray’s “Stiggin’s Fancy” Pineapple Rum; it’s smooth and a little sweet and marries well with the other ingredients in this cocktail
  • 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters
  • 2 dashes Angostura Bitters
  • Ice
  • Mint sprig for garnish

Wrap several handfuls of ice cubes in a tea towel, then smash repeatedly with something heavy. (I use the pestle from my largest mortar and pestle; it’s the size and shape of a billy club.) This will provide you with a variety of ice, from one or two full cubes, to broken cubes, to crushed ice, to snow. If you have a Pilsner glass, fill it with the ice; otherwise fill any medium-sized tall glass.

Pour the syrups, juices and rum over the top of the ice. Stir with a bar spoon or a straw or a chopstick, then top it off with the bitters and garnish it with a mint sprig.

This drink will hit you differently depending on how you drink it. If you go at it immediately, with a straw, it will be pretty sweet. Only a hint of cinnamon on the back end keeps it from being a little syrupy. If you sip it from the lip of the glass, the bitters will give it a slightly savory backbone. If you start with just a sip or two, have an in-depth discussion about the relative merits of bagpipe jazz or Klingon love poetry, then come back to it 10 minutes or so later, the crushed ice will have melted, diluting the cocktail a bit as well as chilling the drink.

Cinnamon Syrup

  • 2 cups (396 g) granulated sugar
  • 1 cup (227 g) water
  • 7 cinnamon sticks

Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from heat, cover, and leave overnight or at least six or seven hours. Strain and bottle. This will last at least a month in your refrigerator. It is outstanding in cocktails, of course, but even better over French toast.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

Label adventures

A&E is reinvented as Rare Breed

Emeran Langmaid has been on a voyage of reinvention.

Langmaid is the owner of Rare Breed Coffee (2 Pittsburgh Ave., Nashua, 578-3338, rarebreedcoffee.com), one of New England’s most innovative coffee and tea companies. For more than 20 years it went by a different name: A&E Coffee and Tea. At the 10-year point, Langmaid felt that her company needed to go in a new direction, but she was advised against it.

“I was working with a marketing company at the time,” Langmaid remembered, “and they told me, ‘Don’t change your name because you already have a loyal customer base and it gets confusing. So just stick with your name,’ which was probably not great advice. It makes sense on the surface, but then the specialty coffee market became a big thing. Like craft beer, a lot more people were opening in on it. And so we actually wanted to rebrand to tell more of what our story was and to connect with people and to really have a much better online presence.”

By 2021 it had become clear to Langmaid that she needed to tap into a new pool of customers, and she made the decision to not only change the name of her company but also completely change the look and marketing of her products.

“We were doing something that was different in our area than really anybody else,” Langmaid said. “Green Mountain [Coffee] was the region’s first or second most popular coffee brand out there, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. Dunkin’ was predominantly a drive-thru business and Green Mountain was Keurig and a brew-at-home business. So they didn’t really compete in terms of who their end user was necessarily. So the genesis of Rare Breed is stepping outside of the lines and doing something different and following your own passage.” A company like hers needs to be unique and vibrant, she said — a Rare Breed.

Langmaid was confident about her coffee. She is one of very few certified coffee specialists to pass the prestigious Q Grader exam, making her one of the most qualified coffee producers in the world. She knew she could depend on her team.

“I totally depend and rely on everybody that’s part of the team,” she said. “We all are moving in the same direction.”

Langmaid knew that roasting and processing Rare Breed’s coffee and tea would involve continual fine-tuning, but one of the highest priorities for her and her team in reinventing themselves was the look of their products. They decided to adopt an audacious brightly-colored look for their packaging, with strong graphics and bold images on the containers.

“You have to really market and brand your company to get attention and to get noticed,” Langmaid said. “It’s a very fast-paced world and eye candy is so important.”

Rare Breed worked with a branding company that was known primarily for its work for craft beer companies with the same market that Rare Breed wanted to target.

“Our core customer is about 25 to 40, whereas it used to be like 35 to 60. As kids mature and grow up, they move away from energy drinks and some of the other caffeinated sugar products into a more sophisticated palate. We wanted to be their first choice. That’s our target audience.”

“If you go to the beer store and you see all of the cans, those labels are bright and fun and dynamic and a little irreverent at times, and that was our inspiration,” Langmaid said. “We wanted to push the envelope a little bit within the coffee space. We also want to be in grocery [stores]. And again, when you walk through the coffee aisle, it’s all in bags. So we ended up going with cans, kind of a throwback to the old coffee can, where it’s completely recyclable, it retains its shape, so regardless of how it’s stocked on the shelf it will look really sharp and clean.”

A&E Coffee and Tea officially became Rare Breed in October 2023. The visual changes have been just a small part of Rare Breed’s rebranding, but so far the results have been promising.

“At times it is an uphill battle,” Langmaid sighed. “You’re swimming upstream. Or against the tide. I’m sure there’s like a lot of phrases that kind of define what we’re doing. We’re just pulling it into coffee.”

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

Expo is a fountain of tastiness

The New Hampshire Chocolate Expo returns

If Willy Wonka weren’t tied down to one location, his job might look a lot like Christy Charest’s. Charest is the Social Media Manager for the Chocolate Expo, a company that holds convention-sized chocolate parties throughout the Northeast. Her next event will be the New Hampshire Chocolate Expo at the Doubletree Expo Center (700 Elm St., Manchester) on Sunday, Oct. 15, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Charest said that the goal of a chocolate expo is to introduce people to chocolate producers and chocolate-adjacent crafts, but even more, to help them relax and be happy.

“It’s a way for guests to come and unplug and reconnect with friends and family and just enjoy a chocolate,” she said. “We’re not a typical event where people come and they’re buying food or chocolate or drinks. There are lots of different aspects to the event, including a stage where we have lots of presentations, demonstrations that involve chocolate making, and even special guests. For this [the Manchester] event we have the top Freddy Krueger cosplayer coming. The event takes place on Elm Street. We found that it was very fitting, especially with the time of year.”

Although it is called an Expo, Charest said this event is very much designed for the general public.

“[When guests come in] they’re greeted with giant chocolate fountains — white chocolate, dark chocolate, milk chocolate fountains. They can pick their Rice Krispies treats, or chips or strawberries — anything they want. You put it on a skewer and you’re able to dip it right in the chocolate. There’s anything you can imagine. There’s slow-roasted nuts, whoopie pies, macarons, jumbo peanut butter cups, chocolate buns, [and] chocolate covered bacon. [For] children we have a Kid Zone; included with admission for any of the littles is free face painting and balloon twisting.”

She said that the Chocolate Expo is meant to be a memorable experience.

“There are free photo ops as well at all of our events. We have a step-and-repeat banner [photo backdrop] with all of these different photo props — with giant cardboard cutouts of chocolate-dipped strawberries and bonbons and truffles — and we have a photographer that’s there that will take your photos for you at no additional charge.”

Rachel Mack will be one of the exhibitors at the Chocolate Expo. She will also give one of the presentations. “It will be just a short little talk,” she said. “‘I’m going to discuss what goes into making a chocolate bar, but specifically how our cacao comes from all over the world.” She will discuss how her company, Loon Chocolate (195 McGregor St., Manchester), sources local ingredients. “We have a couple of different collaborations that we have with local, other local businesses. [Our ingredients range] from the global cacao bean to local maple sugar — everything that goes into one of our chocolate bars.”

Mack said there is something special about the Chocolate Expo in Manchester.

“There are chocolate expos that we’ve done all over the Northeast,” she said. “We’ve done chocolate expos in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, in New York, in New Jersey, and I love the crowd at the New Hampshire one. It is a crush of people who show up. Everyone wants to have fun. Everyone wants to try chocolate and people really like to take time to appreciate the chocolate. I really love that.”

The crowds at expos like this one aren’t made up solely of chocolate connoisseurs.

“It’s just anyone who loves chocolate shows up,” Mack said. “Actually, I shouldn’t even say ‘anyone who loves chocolate.’ There was a guy who came to our booth at an event who had a T-shirt that said ‘I Hate Chocolate.’ We did get him to admit that he’s still not a fan of chocolate but if he had to [eat it] he would like ours.”

The New Hampshire Chocolate Expo
When: Sunday, Oct. 15, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Where: Doubletree Expo Center, 700 Elm St., Manchester.
Tickets: General admission “timed-entry” tickets are $20 for adults and $10 for children. Late Day Special tickets for admission after 4 p.m. are $10. Online VIP tickets are $30 for adults and $15 for children, which allows admittance one hour early. These are available through eventbrite.com. General admission tickets at the door are $30 for adults, and $15 for children.

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 24/10/03

News from the local food scene

The days of wine and sunflowers? On Thursday, Oct. 3, Barrel and Baskit (377 Main St., Hopkinton, 746-1375, barrelandbaskit.com) will host a Sunny Sunflowers Flower Bar & Wine Tasting from 5 to 7 p.m. Each guest will be able to pick a bouquet of sunflowers and other late summer/early fall flowers, enjoy wine and an appetizer bar, and socialize with other sunflower enthusiasts. Tickets are $85.

Block Party: 603 Brewery (42 Main St., Londonderry, 404-6123, 603brewery.com) will host a Fall Fest Block Party on Saturday, Oct. 5, from noon to 9:30 p.m. The 603 will take over Main Street with food trucks, live music, a stein holding contest, axe throwing, 603 Scratch Kitchen specials and more.

Books and Brownies: On Saturday, Oct. 5, The Friends of the Brookline Public Library (16 Main St., Brookline, 673-3330, brooklinelibrarynh.org) will hold their semi-annual Used Book & Bake Sale from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at 4 Main St. The funds raised by the Friends are used for library programs, including the Summer Reading Program and Museum Passes

Fun with tacos: Celebrate an evening of tacos Saturday, Oct. 5, from 4 to 8 p.m in downtown Franklin.The first Fiesta del Taco will bring together community members and support local businesses as they transform their normal menus to serve tacos. Participants will vote for their favorite. Complete a Taco Passport for a chance to win prizes.

The unexpected comfort of Cheese Soufflé

4 Tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, plus enough to grease a soufflé dish

¼ cup (30 g) all-purpose flour

1½ cups (340 g) warm milk

A pinch of an herb or spice that you feel like adding – Aleppo pepper is a particular favorite of mine

6 eggs, separated

salt and pepper to taste

½ cup (72 g) grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup (72 g) grated cheese — if you have nubbins of several left-over cheeses, this is an excellent way to use them up. If the Universe has stepped on your last nerve, and you can’t even, feel entirely free to pick up a bag of pre-shredded cheese at random and use that. If you want to get fancy at some point and invest in a half pound of Peruvian llama cheddar, you can do that someday when you aren’t so emotionally fragile. Believe it or not, a soufflé is comfort food, and right now let’s concentrate on getting this bad boy in the oven, so you can drink a beer in the shower while it bakes.

Preheat the oven to 375°F and grease a soufflé dish. If you don’t have a soufflé dish — and seriously, why would you? — try to find something oven-safe that is deeper than it is wide. Round is better than square. Straight sides are better than curvy. A large coffee can might work in a pinch.

Melt your half-stick of butter over medium-low heat, until it stops sputtering and foaming, then add the flour. Stir it until the flour is slightly cooked and darkens a little. This is what’s called a roux — it’s used to help thicken sauces. Whisk in the warm milk, which will do funny things to the roux’s texture, but don’t panic; that’s normal.

Keep stirring the milk sauce until it thickens, then remove it from heat and leave it to cool for a while.

With your stand mixer or hand mixer, beat the egg whites until they reach fairly stiff peaks. This means that when you pull the beater out of the creamy egg whites they will leave little stalagmites behind.

Wash your hands, then stick a finger into the milk sauce. If it feels like a very warm bath, add the rest of the ingredients in — the egg yolks, seasonings and the cheeses. Whisk them together, then transfer the orange-colored sauce into a bowl.

Use a rubber or silicone spatula to beat in about a third of the stiff egg whites into the yellow mixture to lighten it up, then fold in half of the remaining egg whites, followed by the last of them. If you’ve never “folded” anything with a spatula before, here’s what’s going on:

When you whipped up the egg whites, you were beating air into them and creating hundreds of thousands of tiny bubbles. Because egg whites are very sticky and protein-y, they will hold all those bubbles in a foam for a while — not weeks or anything, but long enough to make a soufflé. When you “fold” that foam into your other mixture, the eggs are really happy about being reunited with their other half, but you want to do this gently, so you break as few of those micro-bubbles as possible.

When everything has been (gently) mixed together, and there aren’t any dramatic white streaks of egg white, use your rubber spatula to gently turn the batter into your greased dish. Put it in the oven and bake it for about half an hour. My particular oven takes 35 minutes, but check on it at 30. This is a good opportunity to take your beer shower.

When your soufflé looks ready, test it with a skewer, like you would a cake or brownies. If the skewer comes out clean, the soufflé is ready to come out of the oven. This is when it will look the puffiest and most Instagram-worthy, so take a picture now, but give it five minutes or so to cool down before serving and eating it.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Denise Nickerson

Owner/Pastry Chef, The Bakeshop on Kelley St. (171 Kelley St., Manchester, 624-3500, thebakeshoponkelleystreet.com)

“I am Le Cordon Bleu trained and a dessert enthusiast,” Nickerson said. “Many of my recipes have been passed down through generations, but stand the test (or taste) of time. My mother was a big influence for her from-scratch desserts as every night no matter what was for dinner, we would always look forward to some sort of delicious homemade treat. She passed along my love for taking the time to come up with new baking ideas, searching recipes and enjoying the happiness of seeing the look on the faces that have just had a little piece of dessert heaven. I’m proud to say that everything offered at The Bakeshop is handmade, using quality ingredients, and made in small quantities to ensure freshness. Whether you are coming in to the bakery for a cake, pie, sandwich, bagel or just a little pick-me-up snack, there’s a lot of pride, history and of course love of baking that goes into all that we do.”

What is your must-have kitchen item?

It would definitely be my offset spatula. Not only can you make some beautiful decoration magic happen, but it is also excellent at smoothing out problems.

What would you have for your last meal?

I would want a banquet table of chocolate desserts. Just picture this in your mind and you will see that the possibilities are pretty sweet.

What is your favorite local eatery?

You can often find The Bakeshop crew at Tucker’s eating waffles, breakfast burritos or their sunrise breakfast while discussing new ideas and planning for a busy week ahead. Dessert would definitely be a slice of cake from Campo Enoteca.

What celebrity would you like to see eating something from your bakery?

I would love to see Carmy from The Bear try my food just to show that simple, clean recipes made with high-quality ingredients can be just as equally enjoyed as the most elegant and acclaimed restaurants around the world. Jeremy Allen White would be welcome, as well.

What is your favorite item that your shop makes?

The hardest question to answer is ‘What is my favorite item on our menu?’ I truly love everything that we make.

What is a major food trend you see in New Hampshire recently?

Doughnuts are one of the biggest food trends that’s been around in New Hampshire. People are getting very excited as we go into the fall flavors of pumpkin, spice and apple cider.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Grilled cheese — mozzarella, tomato, basil and balsamic reduction on The Bakeshop garlic herb bread. Willing to throw out a cliche here: It’s to die for!

Hummingbird Cake

Put dry ingredients in bowl:
2 cups flour
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt

Stir and add liquid:
1 cup vegetable oil
2 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
28-ounce can crushed pineapple, including juice
2 ripe bananas
1 cup chopped pecans

Stir until combined. Put into two greased 9” pans and bake at 350 degrees F for 25 to 30 minutes until toothpick comes out clean.

Cool, then frost:
3/4 cup softened butter
8 ounces softened cream cheese
4 cups confectioner’s sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt

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