In the kitchen with Danielle Calkins

Danielle Calkins, co-owner of Pat’s Apple Crisp and Cider Donuts (patsapplecrisp.com), grew up in her family’s business, selling apple crisp at fairs around New Hampshire.

“My dad and my mother started this business back in 1984,” she said. We’ve been in business over 40 years. The cider doughnuts have been part of the operation for about 18 years out of those 40. My father passed away in 2010, and my brother and I took over the business. We decided to expand into a food truck mobile business, in addition to working the Hopkinton and Deerfield fairs. There aren’t a lot of cider doughnut enterprises out there that are mobile and can go on the road like we do. We do a lot of employee-recognition events for companies, and customer appreciation events. We do a lot of weddings in the fall. There are pictures of me as a toddler at the Deerfield Fair outside of our original building. At 5 years old I was asking people for tips at the window and it’s really like it’s created a work ethic for me. It definitely carried me through and just being a successful career person for much of my adult life.”

What is the most important piece of equipment you take on the road with you?

Absolutely, our doughnut machine. There’s no way we could make doughnuts on site without it.

What would you have for your last meal?

Honestly, probably my Aunt Cheryl’s macaroni and cheese with tomatoes. Everything is from scratch. It’s the ultimate comfort food. As a child, at the Fair, if it was a cold night and you had that, it was just the best! And, of course, I’d follow it up with an apple crisp.

What restaurants do you like to eat at?

The restaurant scene in Manchester is so good! Firefly Bistro and Bar is my husband’s and my favorite date night spot. I usually get the seared scallops. They usually have a special one but then they have the regular menu one. It’s the regular menu one that I love, with the roasted garlic sauce and the wilted spinach.

Between your apple crisp and the cider doughnuts, which is your favorite?

Honestly, the apple crisp. The doughnuts are more popular, but the apple crisp has the Hershey’s French Vanilla Ice Cream, and when it melts a little bit into the crisp, there’s nothing like it.

What kind of apples do you use in your apple crisp?

McIntosh. We get all our apples from Meadow Ledge Orchard [in Loudon]. … I just think that everything aligns perfectly for Deerfield Fair Weekend. The apples are at their peak, just before October hits. And they have that extra little bit of tart, but still sweet. If it’s about 50 degrees out, everything is perfect, apple crisp-wise.

Skin-on or skin-off?

Skin-off.

Thank you.

You’re welcome.

Have you seen any new food trends in fair food?

Fair food is very traditional stuff. Honestly, it has surprised me that there hasn’t been more innovative cooking going on at the fairs because there is such a space for that with food trucks. There are many, many fried doughs, french fries, ice cream, blooming onions — a lot of those foods have seen their heyday and it surprises me that there isn’t more creative culinary coming out of the food trucks at the fairs.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I make a really good chimichurri. I use a lot of fresh herbs. So parsley, cilantro, fresno peppers, red wine vinegar, olive oil, lots of lime juice, salt, pepper, garlic. And then I usually put it over grilled chicken with limes and avocado on the side with some cilantro lime rice. You just let that sit for like five or six hours, and it’s perfect. That resting is key; it makes it blossom.

Pat’s
Pat’s Apple Crisp and Cider Donuts will be at the Deerfield Fair Sept. 25 through Sept. 28. Visit patsapplecrisp.com.

Featured Image: Danielle Calkins. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Elissa Drift

Owner of Local Street Eats (112 W. Pearl St., Nashua, 402-4435, local-streeteats.com), an international, street-food-inspired fusion restaurant in downtown Nashua. In its first year of operation, Local Street Eats built a reputation for playful dishes, creative cocktails, and exciting live events. “Around the age of 15 I started my first restaurant job as a hostess at my local watering hole in Chelmsford, Mass.,” Drift said. “I was there all the way into my college years. Then I ended up getting a job at Saffron Bistro in Nashua, New Hampshire. And that was chef-owned and -operated. It was a great little spot. I kind of got my feet wet in the downtown Nashua area and that is where I’ve been ever since. So after I left Saffron in 2013, I went over to Stella Blu and I had kind of finished my tenure as a manager last year. I was with them for just shy of 11 years. And then it was time to go off on my own. And back in December of 2024, we opened Local Street Eats right here in Nashua.”

What would you have for your last meal?

It would honestly be something like home cooking — something warm and hearty. My husband makes a really good tikka masala and that is actually one of my really favorite things. We make it with couscous and it’s really, really good. It’s nostalgic, it’s warm, it’s cuddly, it has all the feelings in it and I think more about that than the actual food item itself.

Other than your own restaurant, where do you like to eat out at?

I love Cucina Toscana (427 Amherst St., Nashua, 821-7356, cucinatoscananashua.com). … I feel like the food there is made with just a little bit extra caring. I feel like the ingredients are always super duper fresh and it’s a warm welcoming environment and has that kind of small-town feel.

Who is a celebrity you’d like to see eating at your restaurant?

Oh my god, Stanley Tucci! I don’t have anything else to say; I just love him.

What’s your favorite thing on your menu?

We rotate our menu each season, but something that started as a special and is now moving forward onto our summer menu is the Beef Suya. It’s really, really tasty. The marinade on the beef is perfect. The beef has just enough fat content where when we grill it, it caramelizes and just has that nice, like, natural flavor to it

What’s a restaurant trend that you see in New Hampshire?

I would definitely say a growing trend is inclusivity but more specifically collaborations. That’s really kind of the heart of what we’re doing right now. It could be collaborations between different restaurants; it could be collaborations between a restaurant and another business, it could be a collaboration between the city and multiple businesses downtown.

Your restaurant is becoming well-known for hosting fun events. What have been some of your favorites?

We’ve done everything from tequila tastings to floral pop-ups where you make your own bouquets. We’ve hosted cookie decorating, collaborating with a local cookie-er. We’ve done a boozy book swap; that was great. We’ll do more of those. We did a Drag-Your-Galentine-to-Brunch event, centering around Valentine’s and celebrating your girl friends or guy friend relationships and not just always about the love in your life.

How do you get these ideas?

I love to throw a good party. I love to see people having a good time. I love a good reason to get dressed up. Our Mad Hatter Tea Party for Mother’s Day was all about that. For us, it’s not just about the dining experience — it’s about everything else. It’s about bringing the community together to have a good time and do something different.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I would say anything that my family’s actually going to eat.

What is a good way to set a tone for a party? What are easy props to use?

Good food, good drink — honestly, that’s it. We don’t need any fancy craziness as long as, you know, the minutia’s, you know, where it needs to be. We have good food, good drink and great company.

Featured Image: Elissa Drift, owner of Local Street Eats. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Daniel MacCrea

New Culinary Director, Pats Peak Ski Area (686 Flanders Road, Henniker, 428-3245, patspeak.com)

“Culinary’s something I kind of fell into,” MacCrea said. “I was working at a hotel when I was like 16 or 17. I was actually a busboy. And then something happened where one of the cooks was on vacation … and one cook got let go, and one guy just kind of stopped showing up. I looked at the executive chef and said, ‘Hey, you can come get me; I can fill in a few shifts.’ That was kind of how I got started. … I did some chain restaurant work. I worked in elder care as a culinary director for Expected Living for about eight or nine years. That was actually really rewarding. Then … I was the executive chef at Great Wolf Lodge for about three years before I took this Pats Peak job. I graduated high school, but then never really went to culinary school because I was already working and in the field doing it, and I love what I did, and I just wanted to work and move up the ladder and progress that way.

Do you have a particular culinary point of view or a philosophy in the kitchen?

I do. I mean, I honestly think it’s not about me; it’s really just about whatever my guest wants. I try to cater to anyone and everyone. I really got into cooking for people with allergies and specific kinds of needs. I started really in health care, but then I expanded it when I was at my last job at Great Wolf Lodge. For me, it’s just all about guest satisfaction. If I can make somebody happy with my food, I’ve done my job.

What’s your must-have kitchen item?

Other than the very obvious, like just a good quality chef’s knife, I feel like oregano is my secret ingredient. I add oregano to a lot of dishes. I just like fresh herbs. I think if you have fresh herbs in general, you’re going to be better off. Fresh herbs, I think they elevate just about every dish.

What do you think is the most important skill in the kitchen?

For me, the most important skill is really being able to interact with a lot of different kinds of people. People skills are huge. You’re interacting with people from all different backgrounds, all different walks of life, all different personalities, and to be able to get the most out of those people that work around you I think is just so important

What would you have for your last meal?

I’d probably just have like a nice steak, like a nice T-bone or porterhouse, cooked medium rare, with something like creamy mashed potatoes and garlic green beans on the side.

What’s the best dish that you ever ate at a restaurant?

I was in Chicago — I think the place was called Gibson’s Italia. It was all family style, but literally everything I tried on that table was amazing — great steak, great pasta, great everything. We were at a leadership course thing, it was like a long weekend, and this woman was local to Chicago and she was taking us to all these places. I mean she’s walking up to these restaurants, no signage, no nothing, you wouldn’t know it was a restaurant unless you lived there. The service was incredible. The food was incredible.

Who’s a celebrity you’d like to see eating your food?

I’d be terrified, but I would love to have Gordon Ramsay eat my food. Although I admit I would be absolutely terrified, but, I mean, he’ll tell you like it is.

What’s your favorite dish to put on a menu?

When I’m planning a menu, I like to have some barbecue items. I love pulled pork, I love smoked brisket. I just like smoked meats. It’s a lot of the kind of weird cuts that way back when people didn’t appreciate them, and then we started making them into fantastic meals and I just love that.

What’s your favorite cookbook?

I’ve read a lot of cookbooks. I don’t know if I have an exact favorite one. I know they’re not actually cookbooks, but I like anything by [Anthony] Bourdain. I love that stuff. The cookbook I go to the most is literally a culinary textbook from Johnson & Wales. I just sort of picked that up, and it’s just amazing. It’s so easy to use, it has everything you could want. Right now, I’m reading about smoking.

What’s a big new food trend that you see?

There’s a lot of stuff I think that is trending, but hot honey is huge right now. I also think people are trying to get back to basics. I think overdone dishes with a million ingredients are kind of a way of the past. I think simple dishes, simple flavors, just good quality fresh ingredients is kind of on the rise. And I love that.

What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?

I like to cook a lot of Asian-fusion food. I like to make orange chicken and Szechuan chicken, things like that. I like to make simple meals that I can make really quick that are really flavorful. Really, my wife’s pretty picky, so anything that I can get her to eat and say is good is huge for me.

Featured Image: Daniel MacCrea, New Culinary Director, Pats Peak Ski Area. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Tara Bartilucci

Owner/Baker, Big Trees Baking Company

“I make sourdough bread, which I sell at some local stores and at the Canterbury Farmers’ Market,” Bartilucci said. “I have always loved baking; my mother and I baked growing up. Two years ago in 2023, when I moved to Canterbury, I decided to not buy store-bought bread anymore for the year and it turned into a little obsession. So I went to my farmers market board with bread samples and asked if they wanted a vendor. They … brought my bread around to all the other vendors to try it and everyone was so warm and welcoming. They wanted me to come back the next week to start selling, so I went home and got my watercolors out, made my logo that night and I’ve been selling at the market ever since.”

What is your must-have kitchen item?

My bench scraper. It’s a CDK bench scraper and it’s the larger size. It’s pretty much an extension of my hands. It helps me cut the dough, shape the dough, and transfer the dough. It does absolutely everything.

What would you have for your last meal?

Honestly, bread. I make bread and eat it all the time, but I do truly love bread that much. The other day we actually had an old-world sourdough with a friend around our countertop talking and we put sesame oil, avocados and sesame seeds on it and it was absolutely delicious.

What is your favorite local eatery?

I really enjoy Curry Leaf [in Concord]. I love their Malai Kofta. It’s absolutely delicious.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see eating your bread?

I guess more of a celebrity in the baking world would be James Bridges. He’s in charge of a lot of sourdough Facebook groups and Sourdough Geeks (sourdoughgeeks.com), which is a whole website and group devoted to sourdough baking. He does a lot of classes and education. He’s absolutely incredible at what he does.

Have you given your sourdough starter a name?

I have. Its name is Pineapples. When you start making a sourdough starter it smells like dirty socks at first, but after a while it gets this very yeasty fruity smell because it’s a little more on the acidic side as the good bacteria wins out. It reminded me of pineapples and that name just stuck.

What is a baking trend you see in New Hampshire right now?

Sourdough. Everyone’s making bread from home. People are really embracing that. And I think recognizing how important the farmers markets are and being able to bring their food to those and expand that local market.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Anything with tofu and veggies. I’ve actually been putting tofu in the air fryer lately, just plain. And then it creates this little bit of crisp on the outside and almost gives it a subtle flavor to it. You have to use extra-firm tofu.

What do you put on your bread?

I use a lot of jam. Lindon Garlic Farm [in Gilmanton] makes a black garlic jam with blueberries or strawberries that is absolutely incredible.

What is a good resource for someone who is just learning to make their own sourdough bread?

There are a few people I would look into, actually. Tom Cucuzza, who does the Sourdough Journey (thesourdoughjourney.com), is a good one to start with. I like things in word form instead of video, and he does that well. And then there’s Maurizio Leo (theperfectloaf.com). He has a blog, he has books, he has everything. He’s very, very clear. He was an engineer prior to becoming a baker, so he kind of combines that scientific and artistic element of sourdough. Finally, the Sourdough Geeks Facebook group (facebook.com/groups/sourdoughgeeks) is a really good resource. You do have to look — I think the biggest thing is to look at people’s, the people that comment on your posts and give you advice, look at what their bread looks like and decide if it’s what you want yours to look like.

Featured Image: Tara Bartilucci. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Nick Provencher

Executive Chef at The Birch on Elm (968 Elm St., Manchester, 836-1958, birchonelm.com)

“I started by cooking in high school. It was just a part-time job at Nadeau’s sub shop, but I started there, learned a lot of speed, and did that for money,” Provencher said. “I played golf in college but when I came home for summers or ever needed to make money, I always worked in kitchens. It’s kind of my second love behind golf, and eventually after college I dove more into this industry because it’s fast-paced and kind of chaotic, which I like. I really threw myself into it, which started in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, where I worked for four to five years before coming out to Manchester to help my executive chef at the time open the Foundry. I met the ownership of Birch through that and we started that in 2016 and I’ve been there ever since,” he said.

“I think my philosophy is to keep food outwardly simple while simultaneously having a level of complexity that showcases whatever season we are in, using different techniques and flavors from all around the world.”

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I like a good set of plating spoons. No matter where I am, if I’m doing off-site cooking or at the restaurant, I always make sure I have a little versatile group of plating spoons that I can use. They’re like slightly larger than tablespoons, but you can maneuver them and get your plating just right. Some of them are slotted, in case you need to get rid of excess moisture or liquid.

What would you have for your last meal?

The last one ever would probably have to be like huge rib-eyes and lobster tails. Simple. If I’m going out, that’s probably what I’m going out with.

What is your favorite place other than The Birch to eat out at?

I think someone that has come in alongside of us and helped push the city’s [food scene] forward that I’m really impressed with is probably Evolution. I love what they’re doing there. We’re very happy to have them a block over and help us make this a food destination as much as possible.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see eating at The Birch?

Chef-wise, it would be hard to pass up getting either just shown out for Gordon Ramsay or, if you got yelled at by him, I feel like it would in some way be a weird honor. I came up in more cutthroat, old-school kitchens. I wouldn’t be new to getting chewed out a little.

What’s your favorite thing on your menu?

I’m really proud of our rabbit lasagna. We make all the pasta — well, we make everything in house — but pasta is one of my true loves when it comes to cooking. So we have handmade pasta sheets laid with a velouté that we make from the braising liquid of the rabbit we cook. Housemade ricotta’s layered in there and then a bunch of fresh-grated Parm and all of the braised rabbit meat layered up with our homemade pasta.

What is the biggest food trend you notice in New Hampshire right now?

Honestly, it’d be hard to not say food trucks. I feel like every which way I look, people either I know or am associated with seem to be opening pop-up kitchens and food trucks. If they’re doing well, it’s almost like if they asked me, I’d be like, ‘Hey, keep the truck, man. Your overhead’s low, the variables are minimal. You can control everything.’ Once you get inside four walls, things get a little different.

What’s your favorite thing to cook at home?

If I’m cooking at home, if I have a whole day to cook, I’ll probably be simmering some type of sauce, braising some type of meat and making homemade pasta. I love it.

Featured Image: Nick Provencher. Courtesy photo.

In the kitchen with Carolyn Trepanier

Bar Manager at Spice Restaurant & Bar (300 Main St., Nashua. 417-7972, thespicenashua.com). “I got into bartending in 2004. I was a server and … the owner … said, “…Carolyn, get on the bar.” I got thrown to the wolves, but I made it work,” Trepanier said.

“For me, a craft cocktail means pairing the … stand-out ingredients of the restaurant you’re working for with a drink that complements them. For instance, a couple of weeks ago, I was looking at our peanut sauce and the crushed peanuts that we use for our summer rolls and the pad thai. I just brought some peanut butter whiskey in. I’ve made peanut butter cup martinis before. This time I elevated it. I took a glass, I did a chocolate drizzle, I whipped peanut butter in it with a spoon to make an additional drizzle. I rimmed it with the peanut sauce and then I rimmed that with crushed peanuts. And I used two chocolate liqueurs and peanut butter whiskey. And it’s amazing.”

What is your must-have item behind the bar?

A cocktail shaker. As a mixologist, you need it to properly mix the ingredients in there. I don’t like it when someone just does a transfer [and pours a drink back and forth between two glasses]. I like it shaken. That makes sure everything’s infused in together.

What would you have for your last meal?

A rib-eye, medium rare, with scalloped potatoes au gratin, creamed spinach and a blueberry cobbler.

Aside from Spice, where do you like to eat?

I like Surf [207 Main St, Nashua, 595-9293, surfseafood.com]. There’s a salad there that I really like. As a matter of fact, I like it so much that we’ve started making a version of it here. Aside from that, I like Italian food. I like a place that’s cozy and quiet and a little dim that serves authentic Italian.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see drinking one of your cocktails?

Gordon Ramsay, though I don’t know if he drinks. Howard Stern if he still drank but he doesn’t drink anymore. I like people who are feisty and confident.

What’s your favorite drink on your menu?

My mai tai. I’m very proud of it. It’s a recipe I came up with. I altered another popular recipe, with one ingredient being omitted and made it my own and it’s been very popular.

What’s the biggest cocktail trend you’ve seen recently?

Fruit wheels — dehydrated fruit wheels. At first I was not a fan of it, I didn’t think they looked very appealing. However, I looked into the purpose of it and it definitely serves its purpose. It offers an essence of that ingredient throughout the whole beverage as opposed to squeezing a citrus fruit in where you get the pulp, which people may not want … that may be textural.

What do you drink when you’re at home?

A margarita or a white wine — a pinot grigio. In the summertime, though, I do keep the fixings for an Aperol spritz, or a raspberry white Russian.

Lychee Martini from Carolyn Trepanier
This is very popular — very light.

3 ounces vodka — you could use a gin, but it might fight with the lychee.
1½ ounces lychee juice or puree — we have the puree here, which to me makes a visually more pleasing drink; it’s more cloudy, it’s got something to it.
A dash of dry vermouth, which is a very surprising ingredient.

Stir together with ice in a mixing glass, and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a whole lychee.

Featured Image: Carolyn Trepanier. Photo by John Fladd.

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