Tag: 240613

The enduring appeal of a light, effervescent brew

By Zachary Lewis
zlewis@hippopress.com

Aaron Share, brewer and co-founder of To Share Brewing Co. in Manchester, is excited about all things lager.

He always hears “that the tide is shifting back to lager every year. I hope this is the year. I prefer drinking lagers over IPAs,” Share said.

Lagers are “the most popular beer style in the world,” according to a June 6, 2023, article at Wine Enthusiast, which cites the beers from Budweiser, Coors Light, Corona and Michelob Ultra as examples of lagers.

“Lagers are actually relatively new” in the timeline of beer and emerged “in like the last five, six hundred years. What makes lagers unique is, one, that it’s a different type of yeast strain,” Share said. Ales have a different yeast strain and contain many variations. Also, ales are brewed at a much higher temperature.

“Lager strains prefer colder temperatures, so [they’re] a little bit more finicky…. With lagers you’re typically fermenting in the high 40s to mid 50 degrees [Fahrenheit]; if they’re not fermented in that range you’re going to get some unpleasant aromas and flavors from that beer,” Share said.

Lagers are all about being stored.

“Lagering is the German word for storage, so they cold-store this beer, and originally it was done in caves where they could keep cooler, constant temperatures,” he said.

Another brewing difference is that “ales will ferment at the top of one of our vessels … while lagers, they ferment at the bottom.” The two need different amounts of time to produce.

“An ale, for instance, I could get one of our IPAs out, between the time I brew it to the time we package it, somewhere between 14 and 21 days. … I’ve got two lagers over here going, these will be in the tank for, after fermentation is completed this will probably be in the tank for another four weeks. I haven’t even started lagering it yet,” Share said.

Basically, lagers take a lot longer to brew but are well worth the wait.
“You’re looking at anywhere from four to eight weeks on a typical lager. If you’re talking about your Octoberfest beers that come out, most folks start to brew those in spring and they let them lager … until Octoberfest,” Share said.

To Share has four lagers on tap at the moment. They have an American Light Lager. “Ruth, that’s our hoppy lager, our Pink Boots beer,” which is a beer brewed by the women at To Share. They also have a German spring lager and a Mexican-style lager.

Mexican lagers typically have an adjunct like corn, or flecked maize added, and the same can be said for the American lager, although those could also have rice as an added adjunct. The German and more international style lagers are typically just with malted barley. Other ingredients include hops, water and yeast.

The Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP, bjcp.org) outlines the specifics of each type of lager. Lagers all typically run the range of 4.5 to 5 percent ABV.

Nicole Carrier, co-founder and President of Throwback Brewery in North Hampton, is another fan of lagers, although she wasn’t always.

Annette Lee, the other co-founder and Head Brewer of Throwback, helped Carrier find joy in lagers.

“At the time, I was just a dark beer drinker,” Carrier said. “I said to Annette, ‘If you can make a lager I like, I think we’re going to be successful.’”

That lager was one of the first beers Lee designed. It was named ‘Love me For a Long Time’ and was a Bohemian-style Pilsner with an ABV of 4.8 percent.

“I love it,” Carrier said. “This is so good and I quickly became a convert. Once you get a really nice craft lager, for me, it’s hard to go back.”

Lagers could be considered a sort of tabula rasa.

“As a foodie I feel like it’s really easy to pair a lager with a lot of different foods. It’s almost like a blank slate…,” Carrier said. “It helps cleanse the palate, and the other thing is that they’re just ridiculously refreshing.”

Throwback has four lagers on tap at the moment. A standout is a Mexican-style lager called Cabra Dorada.

“It’s super approachable, especially for those who are just getting into craft and may not like the bitter, more hoppier, more traditional Pilsner,” Carrier said. “It puts a smile on my face every time I have a pint of it.”

Even among lagers there are large enough variations to never get bored.

“Lagers can really be a good entry point…. We’ve had a ton of success opening up people’s minds to a whole different style of beer,” she said.

Henry Vance, the owner and man in charge of brewing operations at The Czar’s Brewery (2 Center St. in Exeter and 10 Pierce St. in Dover), spoke highly of his team who expertly craft his recipes, which include both ales and lagers. They have about five different lagers they rotate.

“We have some lagering tanks in Dover that we use that allow us precise temperature control,” Vance said. “It allows us to cold-age our lagers, allows them to develop the full lager flavor profile.” It’s a patience game.

The result is a more relaxed drink.

“Lagers are typically softer. It depends. Modern IPAs are all hop-forward beers for the most part and lagers are just more nuanced, more subtle. It’s really a question of taste preference. Modern IPA drinkers, for the most part, enjoy the hops profile and lager drinkers enjoy the nuances of lager. They’re softer,” Vance said.

As Share and Carrier had noted, there is more than one kind of lager.

“There are definitely a segment of craft beer drinkers that are looking for Old World lagers and there’s a segment that are looking for modern interpretations of those Old World lagers,” Vance said.

What types can one expect at the Czar’s Brewery?

“We do a Bohemian Pilsner which uses Noble Hops and is somewhat traditional but it probably is a little bit more hop-forward than a European brewer would make. … We do a honey lager where we add some local New Hampshire honey to it — that’s going to change the profile,” Vance said.

Lagers are pretty cool, especially in a hot summer.

“The popularity of lagers has come back some. The category is definitely growing,” Vance said.

Mike Neel, Head Brewer at Candia Road Brewing Co. in Manchester, is all in on a lager revolution.

“I do love how complex and a little bit more process-driven it is to make. They are a lot more fun to make than ‘turnin’-and-burnin’’ just a regular IPA, which we do still make plenty of,” Neel said.

Neel has a bunch of horizontal tanks at Candia Road. They have three lagers on tap.

“Technically, you don’t really need different equipment” for lagers, Neel said. Breweries that don’t have these types of tanks still make some tasty lagers.

“Horizontal is the preferred method for conditioning,” he said, because “there’s a lot less strain on the bottom of the yeast bed.” Imagine choosing between holding 50 pounds of books on top of your head while you’re standing or having the 50 pounds of books distributed evenly across your back while you’re lying on your stomach.

“It could have a dynamic impact on what you’re trying to get as an overall outcome,” Neel said.

Lager is not new.

“It’s been the preferred beer style in the world for the last, what, 700 years? And that’s not really changing. It seems like the IPA fad is dominating the beer market right now, which it is in our area, but globally it’s always been lager and will always be lager,” Neel said.

All of Candia Road’s lagers are poured from side-pull wicker faucets made in the Czech Republic. These faucets have a tiny screen inside the nozzle that helps impart air into the beer, resulting in a creamier drink. Neel took a three-day course in Plzeň in the Czech Republic from Lutkr, the manufacturer of the faucet, to get ‘tapster’ certified.

“The Czechs believe that the brewmaster makes the beer but the tapster actually presents and rounds it out — the tapsters are just as important,” Neel said.

Craft brewers in the Granite State are passionate about their profession and often view brewing beer is art. “It’s trying to make the most complex liquid out of the simplest of ingredients…. It’s no thrills but still thrilling at the same time,” Neel said.

Paul St. Onge is Brewmaster at Backyard Brewery in Manchester and also welcomes the wave of lager love.

“We make a lot of different beer here, but we’ve definitely noticed lager is on the rise, so to speak, in terms of consumption and interest,” St. Onge said.

St. Onge has a hunch that someone might choose a lager over an IPA because IPA’s can be “super aggressive [with] bold flavors and I do believe that palate washout is a thing.”

It’s all about preference. Some drinkers are just “looking for something a little more approachable and drinkable and refreshing,” he said. “That’s sort of what I would think is happening, I know that’s how it gets for me.”

In terms of brewing, lagers claim a distinct feat.

“Because the flavors are more subtle and balanced, there’s really nowhere to hide imperfections or flaws in the beer, so you really have to keep a sharp eye and thumb on the pulse to create a good lager. I’m not saying that making IPA is easy, it’s just that making good lager is a challenge…. Really small changes to a recipe can make pretty large drinkability differences,” St. Onge said.

Backyard “usually [has] at least two, most of the time three, lagers on tap at all times. One of our flagships is Lawnmower, which is a Munich-style Helles Lager…. We make a broad spectrum of lagers ourselves…. It’s kind of been a passion project of mine to develop a lager program here,” St. Onge said.

Lots of lagers

Generally, malts and water are very important to lagers, and most lagers have ABVs around 5% or lower, are lighter in color and have a high drinkability quality. Dan Ward, Store Manager of Greg and Jane’s in Epping (63 Main St.), provided the Hippo with the nuances of different styles of lagers.

American lager: Anything that is usually lighter-bodied with American malts, middle range in color, possibly caramel, excluding Boston lager, which is typically darker, more on the malty side. Super drinkable, almost “crushable.” A beer for when “it’s a nice day outside, doing yard work, drinking beer throughout the day,” Ward said. Crisp and refreshing.

Czech-style lager: Originated from the Czech Republic. These lagers are almost exclusively very light, but there are exceptions. They are typically yellow in color, and you should be able to see through them. This is a light, sipping-type beer but more complex with different flavor profiles from American lagers, because of the hops and mineral content in their water. A lager but more complex.

Festbier: More Americanized than Marzen, lighter than Marzen, this has more of a pale ale quality. Similar crushable quality to American lager.

Helles: Paler, popular German style of lager. No different than a typical lager except the body has more of a floral quality. Helles means “pale” or “light” in German. Almost a pale ale but not quite.

India pale lager: Hybrid of lager and IPA. Tastes like an IPA but is usually going to be a little bit darker than a lager. A hoppy lager.

Märzen: Darker than a festbier and looks more like a Boston lager. A more rich and fuller-bodied beverage, caramel in texture and taste, resulting in slightly sweet back notes with a roasted quality. More flavor and aroma than a festbier.

Mexican lager: Think lime or sea salts. Tastes like a Corona that doesn’t need a lime. Pale and typically see-through with a lighter body and lower alcohol. Typically less than 5% alcohol, crushable but better paired with food and also refreshing.

New England lager: Most likely hazy in color and hoppier than a typical lager.

Pilsner: This is a blank canvas of a beer, with tons of different offshoots possible. It’s versatile and dependent on ingredients. Bud Light is technically a Pilsner. Pilsners are light, crisp, clean and clear. No bells or whistles and has typically less than 5% ABV; if alcohol content is higher it is typically labeled as an ‘Imperial.’

Vienna lager: As with the Helles or Czech Pilsner, the style is region-specific but, like with all the other imports, can be mimicked. The Vienna lager can range from light brown to pale in color. A tad maltier, typically, and pairs well with grilled veggies, meat and cheese.

Where to enjoy LOCAL lagers

Here’s some local craft breweries in that offer their own lagers, Check out their tap lists for the most up-to-date availability of each brew. Know of one not mentioned? Let us know at adiaz@hippopress.com.

603 Brewery & Beer Hall
42 Main St., Londonderry, 404-6123, 603brewery.com
Try this brew: The Range Hoppy Lager, an American-style lager, 5.2% ABV (Alcohol By Volume). One of four lagers on tap, it is described as “clean, crushable, and just enough hoppy flavor to put a smile on your face without wrecking your palate. Blazing yellow in color with a pillowy white head, bursting with notes of grapefruit zest, lemon peel, guava, and a kiss of New Hampshire pine.”

Able Ebenezer Brewing Co.
31 Columbia Circle, Merrimack, 844-223-2253, ableebenezer.com
Try this brew: Revuelta, a Mexican-style lager, 4.8% ABV. One of two available lagers, it is described as “a traditional Mexican yeast and grain bill (flaked maize) combined with New Zealand hops that give it a hint of fresh lime zest flavor.”

Backyard Brewery & Kitchen
1211 S. Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-3545, backyardbrewerynh.com
Try this brew: Junior Service Lager, an American-style lager. One of two lagers on tap, it is described as “crisp and well balanced … approachable.”

Candia Road Brewing Co.
840 Candia Road, Manchester, 935-8123, candiaroadbrewingco.com
Try this brew: Dark Lager, a dark lager, 6% ABV. It is described as “a dark lager. Real dark.”

Canterbury Aleworks
305 Baptist Hill Road, Canterbury, 491-4539, canterburyaleworks.com
Try this brew: Gemütlichkeit, a Munich-style Helles lager, 5% ABV. Its flavor is described as “a sublime, sweet malty ‘je ne sais quoi.’”

Concord Craft Brewing Co.
117 Storrs St., Concord, 856-7625, concordcraftbrewing.com
Try this brew: Logger Lager, a maple Marzen, described as “a full-bodied amber-colored marzen style lager that spent the dark days of winter in the cool fermenter. The generous malt blend finishes smooth and crisp with a touch of New Hampshire maple syrup.”

The Czar’s Brewery
2 Center St., Exeter, 583-5539; 10 Pierce Street in Dover, 842-4062; theczarsbrewery.com
Try this brew: Vienna Wait…, a Vienna-style lager, 4.6% ABV.

Daydreaming Brewing Co.
1½ E. Broadway, Derry, 965-3454, daydreaming.beer
Try this brew: Chissà (kee sah – “Who knows?” in Italian), an Italian-style lagered Pilsner, 4.8% ABV. It is one of two lagers Daydreaming will have this summer and is described as having “a biscuity malt with a hint of orange and crisp, dry finish.”

Earth Eagle Brewings
165 High St., Portsmouth, 502-2244, eartheaglebrewings.com
Try this brew: Piscataqua American-style lager, 4.2% ABV.

Feathered Friend Brewing Co.
231 S. Main St., Concord, 715-2347, featheredfriendbrewing.com
Try this brew: Backyard Birds smoked lager, 5.3% ABV. One of three lagers available, it is described as “a nice light lager with smoked malts.”

The Flying Goose Brew Pub & Grille
40 Andover Road, New London, 526-6899, flyinggoose.com
Try this brew: Simulacrum Rauchbier, a Helles-style lager, 5.7% ABV. One of five lagers on tap, it is described as “a pale lager brewed with a touch of German applewood smoked barley and ‘noble’ hops.”

Great North Aleworks
1050 Holt Ave., No. 14, Manchester, 858-5789, greatnorthaleworks.com
Try this brew: Marzen Rover, a Marzen-style lager, 5.2% ABV, described as “lightly hopped with a blend of malts creating a bready, honey-like flavor.”

Great Rhythm Brewing
105 Bartlett St., Portsmouth, 430-9640, greatrhythmbrewing.com
Try this brew: Great Life, an American-style lager, 4.6% ABV. One of two lagers available this summer, it is described as a,”golden, full-flavored premium lager with a clean, crisp finish.”

Henniker Brewing Co.
129 Centervale Road, Henniker, 428-3579, hennikerbrewing.com
Try this brew: Squint pale lager, 5.1% ABV. One of five seasonal lagers, it is described as “an easy drinking brew that goes great with sunny days, peanuts and crackerjacks.”

Kelsen Brewing Co.
80 N. High St., No. 3, Derry, 965-3708, kelsenbrewing.com
Try this brew: Spacetown, a light lager, 4.8% ABV. One of four lagers available, it is described as “full-flavored and highly drinkable. The bright citrus flavors from the hops and bready flavors from the grains lead to a well-rounded, crisp finish.”

Kettlehead Brewing Co.
407 W. Main St., Tilton, 286-8100, kettleheadbrewing.com
Try this brew: Whey Loco Mexican-style lager, 5.5%. One of three lagers on tap, it is described as a “light & crisp Mexican corn lager that features hints of lime with a smooth and refreshing character.”

Liar’s Bench Beer Co.
159 Islington St., No. 4, Portsmouth, 294-9156, liarsbenchbeer.com
Try this brew: Slurp’s Up beach-style lager, 4.8% ABV, one of five lagers on tap.

Liquid Therapy
14B Court St., Nashua, 402-9391, liquidtherapynh.com
Try this brew: Cali Love steam lager, 4.9% ABV, described as “an ode to Anchor Steam. Bready malt meets lager. Totally crushable all year long.”

Lithermans Limited Brewery
126B Hall St., Concord, 219-0784, lithermans.beer
Try this brew: Forty Days, a Czech-style lager described as “light in body, slightly roasted malt flavor, with an approachable alcohol content for a warm summer night.”

Loaded Question Brewing Co.
909 Islington St., Suite 12, Portsmouth, 852-1396, loadedquestionbrewing.com
Try this brew: Rustikal rustic-style lager, 5.1% ABV. One of two lagers on tap, it is described as a “golden-hued lager [that has] a crisp, clean taste with a smooth malt character and a subtle hoppy finish.”

Long Blue Cat Brewing Co.
298 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 818-8068, longbluecat.com
Try this brew: Granite State Lager, a German-style pale lager, 4.3% ABV.

Lost Cowboy Brewing Co.
546 Amherst St., Nashua, 600-6800, lostcowboybrewing.com
Try this brew: Lost Cowboy, an American-style lager, 4.5% ABV. Available on tap in regular and light versions, it is described as “a gently hopped, beautifully balanced, delicate lager with high drinkability.”

Martha’s Exchange Restaurant & Brewery
185 Main St., Nashua, 883-8781, marthas-exchange.com
Try this brew: Beyond the Stars, a German-style dark lager, 5.3%, described as having notes of “toasted malt, dark chocolate, caramel, and malted milk balls.”

Northwoods Brewing Co.
1334 First New Hampshire Turnpike, Northwood, 942-6400, northwoodsbrewingcompany.com
Try this brew: Kung Fu Crab, a Mexican-style lager, 5.3% ABV. This is one of three lagers on tap.

Odd Fellows Brewing Co.
124 Main St., Nashua, 521-8129, oddfellowsbrewery.com
Try this brew: Intrigue, a Vienna-style lager, 5.1%. This is the only lager on tap.

Oddball Brewing Co.
6 Glass St., Suncook, 210-5654, oddballbrewingnh.com
Try this brew: Oddlite, a light American Lager, 5.0% ABV.

Ogie Brewing
12 South St., Milford, 249-5513, find them on Facebook @ogiebrewing
Try this brew: Friar’s Purse, a copper lager, 5.4% ABV. One of four lagers on tap this summer, it is described as a “light, crisp lager [with] fantastic copper color and malty hints of biscuit, nuts, & honey.”

Pipe Dream Brewing
49 Harvey Road, Londonderry, 404-0751, pipedreambrewingnh.com
Try this brew: IPL India pale lager, 5% ABV. One of two lagers on tap, it is described as having a “cold fermented lager base with a clean, hoppy presence. Crushable and tasty.”

Post & Beam Brewing
40 Grove St. in Peterborough, 784-5361, postandbeambrewery.com
Try this brew: Blackfire, a Schwarzbier dark lager, 4.6% ABV. One of three lagers on tap, it is described as “light-bodied and dry, with a touch of roasty bitterness.”

Rockingham Brewing Co.
1 Corporate Park Drive, No. 1, Derry, 216-2324, rockinghambrewing.com
Try this brew: Mulefoot, a lime and ginger lager, 5.5% ABV. This is one of two lagers on tap.

Sawbelly Brewing
156 Epping Road, Exeter, 583-5080, sawbelly.com
Try this brew: Schwarzbelly, a Schwarzbier-style, medium-bodied lager, 4.7% ABV. One of two lagers on tap, it is described as “black in color with a toasty, chocolate nose and gentle noble hop bitterness.”

Smuttynose Brewing Co.
105 Towle Farm Road, Hampton, 436-4026, smuttynose.com
Try this brew: Smuttynose Lager, a Helles-style lager, 4.7% ABV. One of three lagers on tap, it is described as having “a soft aroma with a balanced bite and floral character.”

Spyglass Brewing Co.
306 Innovative Way, Nashua, 546-2965, spyglassbrewing.com
Try this brew: Cubist, a Helles lager, 4.8% ABV. One of two lagers on tap, it is described as, “a traditional German Helles lager with floor-malted Pilsner malt, hopped with Saaz and Saphir hops.”

Throwback Brewery
7 Hobbs Road, North Hampton, 379-2317, throwbackbrewery.com
Try this brew: Cabra Dorada, a Mexican-style lager, 4.7% ABV. One of two lagers on tap, it is described as “a bright, crisp golden lager with a balanced bitterness of Citra hops and lime zest and a slight salinity to the dry finish.”

To Share Brewing Co.
720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com
Try this brew: Tiny Maracas, a Mexican-style lager, 5.5% ABV. This is one of three lagers on tap.

Twin Barns Brewing Co.
194 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-0876, twinbarnsbrewing.com
Try this brew: Pitou Pale Lager, a Vienna-style lager, 4.3% ABV.

Vulgar Brewing Co.
378 Central St., Franklin, 333-1439, vbc.beer
Try this brew: Down to Huck, a Helles-style lager, 5.2% ABV, described as “clean, crisp, and refreshing like a dip in the Winni. Soft & bready malt character with a touch of sweetness. Low bitterness, with slightly floral notes.”