Author: Jeff Mucciarone

The best tacos on the planet?

Imagine crispy, yet tender, bits of pork exploding with savory, sweet flavors in every bite. Next, imagine a super-simple cooking process that is borderline impossible to mess up and results in perhaps the best taco base in existence.

I’m talking about pork carnitas and while we’re at it, let’s make them with beer. Beer adds complexity and flavor to the meat as it cooks slowly, tenderizing in its own juices. Also, I think, and I can’t promise this is accurate, beer actually aids in the tenderization process, helping the meat get where you want to go faster.

Making carnitas, which translates to “little meats” in Spanish, is really more process than recipe. First you braise chunks of pork until tender, and then you crisp up the tender chunks. My understanding is that traditionally the meat is fried in its own fat until tender before it is deposited into tacos.

I’ve followed a bunch of different recipes and I’ve never been disappointed. I’ve made them with a variety of seasonings and braising liquids, including chicken broth, beer, white wine, cider, and a mixture of orange and milk — they’re all winners.

If you choose a lighter brew like a Mexican lager, such as Revuelta by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. in Merrimack, it will impart some pleasing funkiness. A hard cider, such as Wild Thing by Contoocook Cider Co. in Contoocook, adds a little fruitiness and acidity that helps balance a pretty rich final product. A stout would impart more richness but I’d lean toward a drier stout so it doesn’t overpower the dish.

For carnitas, you need to use pork butt, which is actually pork shoulder. The meat is quite fatty and filled with connective tissue, which requires long cooking times to break down.

Start by searing the meat in a big Dutch oven, add the seasonings you like, add your braising liquid, and then either slowly simmer it on the stovetop, or cook it covered in the oven or in a crockpot until the meat is tender.

Once the meat is tender, you drain off the braising liquid and either fry up the tender chunks until crispy on the stovetop or, and this is what I prefer, crisp up the meat in a screaming hot oven or under the broiler. It’s just easier, more consistent, and less messy.

Smash your crispy bits of pork into a warmed tortilla and top with whatever you want: salsa, fresh lime juice, sour cream, cheese, lettuce, pickled onions, and so on. I do think less is more when it comes to toppings here.

Here’s just one way to make carnitas.

Pork Carnitas

• 3 to 4 pounds boneless pork butt, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 Tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 Tablespoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 3 or 4 garlic cloves, smashed
• 1 Tablespoon kosher salt, probably more
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 12 ounces beer, preferably craft-brewed in New Hampshire
• Vegetable oil, for searing

Heat a pot with a heavy bottom over high heat. Once hot, add a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil. Sear chunks of pork in batches, don’t crowd, until browned all over. Add all ingredients and bring to a simmer. Maintain a simmer, either over low heat on the stovetop or in a 350-degree oven, for about 3 hours until the meat is fork tender. Strain meat and remove garlic cloves and bay leaf. Arrange meat in a broiler-safe pan, drizzle over a few tablespoons of the braising liquid, and broil on high heat for about 10 minutes, turning halfway, until the meat is richly browned and crispy. You could also do this last step in a super-hot oven if you don’t have a broiler. Smash 2 or 3 chunks into a warm tortilla and top however you like.

What’s in My Fridge
Double Clip Double IPA by Stoneface Brewing Co. (Newington)
I’m sure I’ve had this before but somehow, maybe not? As my brother-in-law remarked as we cracked open a couple of these, “This is delicious.” It’s big, juicy and bold but the finish is quite smooth. Cheers.

Featured photo. Make pork carnitas. Photo by Frankie Lopez.

It just tastes like beer

“I thought it was time to shake things up,” my friend said as he walked back onto the patio somehow hanging on and balancing several hefty, frozen steins full of borderline overflowing suds.

“I just asked for something light and crisp — and really good,” he said.

This instance occurred during a gloriously sunny afternoon this past September, just a perfect day for relaxing with a few beers and some friends. We’d had a couple big IPAs and frankly, he was right, it was time to shake things up.

Lifting the stein with some trouble, I took my first sip. It was certainly light and crisp, but it was also quite flavorful. A light golden pour, the brew had a dry, extremely refreshing finish with minimal bitterness. This beer was begging for mouthfuls, not just little sips. It was incredibly drinkable.

Sure, some of it was the bracing, welcome change from a super-hoppy IPA to something much, much lighter, but it was also just a tremendous reminder that sometimes there’s nothing more pleasing than drinking a beer that tastes like a beer.

On the way out, we asked the bartender about the beer style and determined it was a local, craft-brewed kolsch.

I’ve written about Pilsners before and have always kind of pretended Pilsners and kolsches are the same thing, and while they’re similar they’re not the same. Pilsners tend to be a little more hoppy, a little more bitter. Kolsches tend to be even lower in ABV but they still feature plenty of flavor.

Craftbeer.com tells me the kolsch is technically a hybrid style of beer that marries elements of ale and lager production. Craftbeer.com also tells me the style “pairs best with bratwurst, nutty cheeses, and even lighter desserts like apricot cake,” and while I’m sure that’s on point, I think it pairs best with sitting outside on a warm, sunny day and a giant, frozen stein.

This is a style you can drink any time of the year but I think it’s best to get it onto your radar now, because I suspect you’ll be drinking it at cookouts and at the beach all summer long.

The reality is the kolsch is particularly versatile: it goes well with just about any food and any circumstance.

New Hampshire craft brewers haven’t ignored the style, which is great news for beer enthusiasts.

I loved the Herkules by Schilling Beer Co. and the Henniker Kolsch Style Ale by Henniker Brewing Co. is another wonderful rendition of the style. Perpetual Grüven by Great Rhythm Brewing in Portsmouth is terrific as well, as is Paradise Valley by Granite Roots Brewing in Troy.

The kolsch is the quintessential “better grab a frozen glass” beer, so get some glasses in the freezer, preferably steins, and get ready for some mouthfuls of bright, crisp, refreshing beer.

What’s in My Fridge
Grolsch Premium Lager by Grolsch Brewery (Netherlands)
OK, not a kolsch, but a couple weeks back I had one of these for the first time in I have no idea how many years. Honestly, as I think about it, my dad used to have Grolsch in the house when I was a kid but I have no recollection of ever having a Grolsch myself. I’m sure it happened at some point. I remember my dad letting my brother and me try a sip of Grolsch when we were little and I distinctly remember not liking it at all. My brother, on the other hand, had a more positive reaction and there’s photographic proof of him tilting the bottle way up to get that last sip. This features a zip of bitterness in an overall light, refreshing package. Here’s another beer that tastes like a beer.

Featured photo. Get the frosty mug ready. Photo courtesy of Jeff Mucciarone.

You can’t overstate the perfection of this pairing

After a quick glance at the beer menu at Cornerstone Artisanal Pizza & Craft Beer in Ogunquit, Maine, a couple weeks back, I ordered the Forklift Unicorn IPA by Stoneface Brewing Co.

The bartender-slash-server said “It’s good,” and while that might not have sounded like an overwhelmingly ringing endorsement, I can tell you that based on the complete interaction, it was, in fact, the equivalent of a five-star Yelp review.

With good reason, too. The New England IPA was delightfully juicy and hazy with big hop flavors, pronounced tropical fruit and citrus notes, but with what seemed like zero bitterness. Plus, it lacked the heft of many of today’s IPAs, which was great because I was about to eat a lot of pizza.

The beer was secondary on this particular occasion, however. My wife and I had somehow found a way to take a weekend away and Friday night was my night to pick dinner. After a traffic-filled drive, we were famished and craving more carbs and cheese than our bodies could actually handle. (Is there anything that gets you craving pizza and a beer like a frustrating car ride?)

As I said, the beer delivered on the server’s promise, and so did the pizza. We went with a barbecued pulled pork pizza and a sausage, pepper and mushroom pizza.

Sipping on a delicious beer and biting into a savory, cheesy, meaty satisfying slice of pizza may not be the height of luxury, but let me know if you can think of a better combination. There’s just something about it. I swear it’s good for your soul, if not for your gut. I’m craving it right now and it’s 10 a.m.

My grandmother is 90-something years old and she still will not eat pizza without having a beer. She gets it.

Now, the type of beer matters. You want to put a bit of thought into the pizza you’re eating when selecting a brew. A coffee porter probably wouldn’t have been a great pairing with the pizzas we chose that night. Something drier, like an Irish stout, probably would have been just fine with the earthiness of the mushrooms.

IPAs stand up to just about anything but they’re so intensely flavored themselves, they can overpower your palate while you’re eating, which is why I tend to stay away from big double IPAs when I’m eating. They just offer too much flavor and too much heft for my palate.

Pilsners, like the Alexandr by Schilling Beer Co. in Littleton or the Beer Hall Lager by 603 Brewery in Londonderry, are perfect for pairing up with pizza, as lighter, crisper brews provide a perfect counterpoint to the combination of chewy dough and rich cheese.

Sours — and I would suggest sticking with lighter varieties, like a Berliner weisse — also pack a tart counterpoint that can be very nice with a slice of pizza. That said, sours vary quite a bit, so again, you just need to think about flavor combinations when you’re ordering.

My wife enjoyed the Dichotomie Saison Inspired Cider by Austin Street Brewery and the beer’s fruity, funky flavor worked really well with the pulled pork pizza, which included a topping of crunchy, sweet coleslaw.

Saisons can be spicy, which makes them an interesting choice for pairing up with pizzas that have a little spice as well — think banana peppers and pepperoni.

I finished up my Forklift Unicorn and ordered an Irish red ale by Geaghan Brothers Pub & Craft Brewery out of Bangor, Maine, and I found the light body and flavorful malt a nice pairing with both of our pizzas.

The core message here: Be like my grandmother and don’t eat pizza without beer.

What’s in My Fridge
Guinness Draught Stout by Guinness & Co. (Dublin, Ireland) It was Saint Patrick’s Day last week after all, and of course Guinness is a fitting choice. There’s nothing quite like watching a Guinness cascade in the glass as you prepare to enjoy a meal of corned beef and cabbage. Dry and drinkable, Guinness is a perfect change of pace. Cheers.

Featured photo: Forklift Unicorn IPA by Stoneface Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

These are worth tracking down

I’ve said this before but walking into your local beer store is downright overwhelming these days. How are you supposed to make a decision?

Even when I know exactly what I want to buy as I walk in, I inevitably get sidetracked. Just going to pick up a six-pack of this or that, but really, who knows what I’ll walk out of there with and how long it will take me to make a decision? I certainly don’t. I don’t have a clue how it’s all going to unfold.

Sometimes it’s helpful to just have someone tell you what to do because thinking is hard. Your life is hard enough and your mind deserves a few minutes without needing to make critical decisions.

I just don’t want you to be that poor, lost soul in your beer store, floundering around from aisle to aisle, shelf to shelf like a rudderless boat. You’ll probably be saying “excuse me” one million times and maybe bumping into others as you start to sweat from your inability to make a decision. No one wants that. It’s depressing to see, honestly.

You deserve a break from thinking, so here are three New Hampshire beers I think you should drink:

Coffee Porter by Northwoods Brewing Co. (Northwood)

I’m falling in love with this brewery; let me start there. The Coffee Porter is silky and smooth and sweet and rich and decadent — it’s just a wonderful beer drinking experience for those of us who appreciate the coupling of beer and coffee. It’s not just a coffee beer, though, as there are pronounced chocolate flavors as well. It comes in at just 4.7 percent ABV, which is tremendous news, as I hereby give permission to have more than one. Random, but Northwoods also has a beer called Magnetic Sense, which is a dry Irish stout, and I guess what I’m saying is, maybe have one of those on St. Patrick’s Day.

Citrillia by Great Rhythm Brewing Co. (Portsmouth)

This double dry-hopped double IPA is a quintessential example of this style: hazy, hoppy and delicious with big tropical fruit flavor — think grapefruit and mango, and maybe a touch of lime. At 8 percent this packs a bit of a punch, but this is what your taste buds want so you should give it to them. Plus, there is just something about a super hoppy brew that brightens up what can, well, kind of be a bit of a dreary month. This doesn’t disappoint at all as the flavor just explodes in your mouth.

Erastus by Schilling Beer Co. (Littleton)

I saw a recent piece in the Boston Globe calling Schilling’s brew Alexandr, a Czech-style Pilsner, the best beer in New Hampshire (while also lauding its pizza). Tough to disagree because the brew is tremendous (and so is the pizza). But, if you’re going all the way to Schilling, you would be a fool not to give Erastus a try. This Belgian tripel is just packed with fruity, spicy flavor. It just seems to hit you with layers upon layers of flavor and complexity and just begs for another sip. Situate yourself alongside the Ammonoosuc River, order up some pizza and dive into this brew. I literally have goosebumps as I write this.

What’s in My Fridge
Peroni Nastro Azzurro by Peroni Brewery (Vigevano, Italy)
Honestly, I’ve probably had this before but I have no recollection of having it previously. It’s light, crisp, bright and refreshing — pretty much exactly what you want when you are craving something lighter. The brew has some delightful citrus and spice notes as well that make it interesting. There are so many IPAs and so many big, rich stouts, it’s definitely worthwhile to be able to turn to some quality lighter brews. Cheers!

Featured photo: Coffee Porter by Northwoods Brewing Co.

Beer and skiing: Yeah, they go together

I’ve snowboarded, or well, known how to snowboard for, I don’t know, 15 years, even if there’s about a 10- to 12-year gap in that window where I didn’t even look at my snowboard.

I’m not good at it and I still get stressed out about getting off the chairlift — and even if I manage to stay upright, I’ll probably knock over whoever is next to me. A three-seater? Forget it.

I met some friends at Pats Peak last year for an evening on the slopes. It reminded me of why it’s such a literal high to experience the rush of the mountainside.

The thing is, hitting the slopes is tiring, and if you’re on the mountain for an extended period of time, a beer or two to break up the day is just a winning move.

You do have to be careful. After you’ve taken a few runs, whatever beer you choose is going to taste very, very good. You’re going to want another. But don’t do it.

Let’s develop a game plan together so you can experience the mountain and have your beer.

Start your morning — without any beer. Let’s be real. Have a cup of coffee, have breakfast and get out there. The morning is going to be your longest stretch skiing or snowboarding. Give yourself a solid two to three hours to embrace the cold.

At lunchtime, grab something light and refreshing, such as the Czech Pilsner by Moat Mountain Brewing Co., which is crisp, light, bright and yet still flavorful, or Tuckerman Brewing Co.’s Pale Ale, which gives you a little fix of hops, a little bitterness and a nice, smooth finish. A tart Berliner weisse, such as Pulp Up the Jam Vol. 11 by Kettlehead Brewing Co., would be another nice choice.

At this stage, anything heavier like an IPA or a stout is just going to bog you down, and you have more skiing to do.

Now, you’ve had lunch and a beer, and you’re staying hydrated because you’re responsible. You felt the rush in the morning, explored some trails, and maybe challenged yourself a little bit. The afternoon can be a little less aggressive. Don’t worry about pushing your limits. Take in the scenery. Cruise some easy trails. Offer some pointers to beginners as you glide by because they always love that.

After a couple more hours of relaxing skiing or snowboarding, it’s time to take a break with something that packs a little more of a punch and a little more hop character, like the Mountain Haze New England IPA by Woodstock Inn Brewery, a beer that is still pretty easy to drink but with a little more in-your-face flavor. Another nice option would be a Stoneface Brewing Co. IPA — you just can’t go wrong with that. The Combover IPA by Schilling Beer Co. would be another game winner.

At this stage you may be feeling a bit tired. Get over it. You need to get back out there one more time, just for a couple more runs. This is your last chance to take it all in. Maybe you can time it right to catch the sun setting.

Take those last couple of runs, embrace the moment, and then close out the day with something rich, dark and decadent, like a Meltaway Milk Stout by Breakaway Beerworks, which is a just a creamy bomb of roasted malt and smooth chocolate-coffee sweetness. Another tremendous option would be to grab a Gunner’s Daughter milk stout by Mast Landing Brewing Co., which rewards you for going back out a third time with a luscious brew bringing together big flavors of chocolate, coffee and peanut butter.

You did good today.

What’s in My Fridge
Shipping Out of Boston Amber Lager by Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers (Framingham, Mass.) This easy-drinking amber lager is the perfect change-of-pace beer, particularly when you’ve had enough of IPAs, and when you aren’t in the mood for something super heavy or something super light. With a welcoming malty character, it’s incredibly drinkable, flavorful and just simply enjoyable. Cheers!

Featured photo: Gunner’s Daughter by Mast Landing Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

Three beers for a game you don’t really care about

It was kind of surreal when Tom Brady retired.

It shouldn’t have been shocking that a 44-year-old who had accomplished more than anyone else in the history of the sport decided to call it a career as he quite literally had nothing left to prove, but it was stunning all the same.

I suppose we all took it for granted that he’d, I don’t know, just keep playing. That’s what he said he was going to do after all. I believe his quote was — I’m paraphrasing — that he would keep playing until he sucked. And he never sucked.

I loved that he just retired without the farewell tour that’s becoming all too common these days across sports. He caught us all off guard and just called it quits. And good for him.

What does this have to do with anything?

Well, Brady’s retiring just made me think about how for the first time in what feels like a really long time, New England sports fans really don’t have a vested interest in this Sunday’s Super Bowl. The Patriots didn’t make it and neither did Brady’s Buccaneers. And it’s not like either of the participants is a longtime Patriots nemesis either.

Do you have strong feelings about who wins between the transplanted Los Angeles Rams and the Cincinnati Bengals? I sure don’t, though I suppose I’ll technically be rooting for the Bengals as it feels like L.A. has just won enough in general.

But who cares? Let’s drink some beers and eat some wings and all get heartburn together and not stress about the game itself. We’ve earned this.

So let’s embrace how care-free the Super Bowl can be if you don’t really care who wins. Here are three New Hampshire beers to help you do just that.

Team of Rivals Mango New England IPA by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. (Merrimack) in collaboration with Backyard Brewery (Manchester)

This beer makes you go “woah.” (Or is it “whoa?”) [Editor’s note: It’s “whoa.”] It’s delightfully fruity but not overpoweringly sweet. When someone says New England-style IPA, to me, this is what the style is all about: hazy, juicy and exploding with flavor. IPAs can sort of overpower your tastebuds so I might suggest grabbing this to open your festivities and just enjoying the tropical deliciousness. That said, if you were to enjoy this with some spicy wings, I don’t think you’d regret that move.

North Beach Mexican Lager by Great Rhythm Brewing Co. (Portsmouth)

Why am I suggesting a Mexican lager during the most American of sporting events? Well, because your belly is full of IPA and chicken wings and your body is craving something lighter, something easier. This is perfectly light, crisp and yet plenty flavorful. Have this with some chili or maybe a pulled pork sandwich, or honestly, anything.

RVP (Robust Vanilla Porter) by Great North Aleworks (Manchester)

At this point, between the wings, the chili, and the pulled pork sandwiches, and who knows what else — not to mention the beer — you’ve probably consumed your fair share of calories for the week. It’s hard to believe just a few hours ago you were inputting your breakfast calories into your trusty calorie-counting app as if that was a worthwhile endeavor for Super Bowl Sunday. Also, there was probably some kind of dip you ate too much of. But maybe now you need something with just a touch of sweetness, you know, to balance out all the savory stuff. Enter RVP. It has a little sweetness from the vanilla and a little richness from the malt, but it’s also surprisingly dry and drinkable. My mom always made whoopie pies for my dad’s Super Bowl parties. Have an RVP with a whoopie pie as you close out the fourth quarter of this game you don’t really care about.

What’s in My Fridge

Plush Double IPA by Frost Beer Works (Hinesburg, Vermont) This is a delicious New England-style IPA featuring big notes of citrus, including orange and grapefruit and plenty of pine, too, along with minimal bitterness. This beer doesn’t taste like it’s 8 percent ABV, but it is, so be careful. Cheers!

Featured photo: North Beach Lager by Great Rhythm Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.