Author: John Fladd

A look at the making of the tastiest of foods

By John Fladd
jfladd@hippopress.com

As with most wonderful things that seem straightforward and simple at first glance, the subject of french fries gets surprisingly intricate and granular the deeper you look at them. And while you can look at them through any number of lenses — the best types to dip in milkshakes, or the best ones to fall in love over — today we’re going to look at six important factors: the variety of potato used, the shape they are cut into, how they are cooked, what type of oil they are fried in, how they are seasoned or topped, and what we dip them into.

Consideration No. 1: What kind of potato?

While there are thousands of varieties of potato, according to the website Potatoes USA (potatogoodness.com) “only” 200 or so are commercially available in the United States. Each variety has its own characteristics, some of which make them suitable for french fries, others not so much. Unfortunately, french fry experts can’t agree on which is which.

Matt Berry, the executive chef at Unwined Wine Bar and Bistro in Milford, has put a lot of thought into this.

“I joke around all the time about how we have very over-engineered french fries,” Berry said. “When we were going to put fries on the menu, I wanted to do something a step above just frying potatoes. I wanted, in essence, to make the perfect french fry. So I thought about what that meant — what criteria, if you will, make up the perfect french fry. And we wanted a really light, crispy exterior and a really light, fluffy, almost creamy interior.” To that end Unwined uses an Idaho Russet potato, which is often described as a “floury” potato. When it is cooked it has a fluffy texture. This is the type of potato often used in mashed potatoes.

Renee McMaster is the owner and operator of a food truck called HotMess Poutine. She also spends a lot of time thinking about french fries — or, as she puts it, Quebec-style fries. She too, uses Russet potatoes, but they are not her first choice.

“I just got back from Quebec,” she said. “In Quebec we use red potatoes and I think it makes the french fries even better. The reason why I don’t use the red potatoes here is that it’s very hard to find a big red potato here. The red ones are a lot more sweet. I think they make [fries] a lot better. I would use red potatoes with peanut oil if I had my choice. In Quebec we use potatoes like we match wine. So here we use russet potatoes but we keep the skin on the potatoes for more flavor.”

Red potatoes are what is frequently called a “waxy” potato. They keep a firm texture when they are cooked, which makes them excellent for roasting or to use in potato salad. For McMaster the flavor of the reds outweighs texture issues. Or it would, if she could find large ones.

Consideration No. 2: How do you cut the potatoes?

For many people, perhaps the most noticeable difference between types of french fry is the shape of the fry. The shape will affect the crispiness of finished fries and even their flavor. A waffle fry will present itself completely differently than shoestring fries, which in turn are a world away from steak fries.

The most common cut of fries in this part of the world is the straight-cut matchstick, an inch or two long. Most restaurants that advertise “hand-cut” fries are talking about this shape.

By “hand-cut” a restaurant almost certainly means using a lever-controlled french fry press that pushes raw potatoes through a metal grid to achieve that shape. Not even the most dedicated cook in a commercial kitchen is willing to cut hundreds of potatoes with a chef’s knife. John Ramsey, the owner of Stark House Tavern in Weare, said that would not be practical for his kitchen.

“We go through about 1,200 pounds of potatoes a week,” he said. “So it’s a substantial part of our business.”

What Ramsey does make, in addition to traditional straight-cut fries, are house-made tater tots. “We got the idea from traveling to Indiana for football games a couple of times a year,” he said. “At one stop, we were in Cleveland at a brew pub. We ordered tots and they made them to order. They were essentially deep-fried mashed potatoes, very pillowy. That was our inspiration.”

Tater tots are also part of the fried-potato repertoire at 603 Brewery in Londonderry.

“All of our fries are hand cut here,” said 603 Brewery sous chef Charley Moore. “Our regular fries are punched every morning, and then for our waffle fries we use a special tool called a mandoline. That lets us get it to the shape that we want and the size that we like.” During happy hour, 603 offers all three types of fries — traditional straight-cut, waffle fries, and tater tots — as part of a french fry flight with four types of dipping sauce.

When Josh Buxton, the owner of Buxton’s Restaurant in Derry, was developing his french fry recipe, he decided to use a more substantial cut of potato.

“I said, ‘You know what? Let’s give people a french fry, but let’s do it differently.’ I wouldn’t call them a wedge, but they’re one and a half to two inches long, and they’re in a wedge style,” Buxton said. He uses small waxy yellow potatoes for a firmer texture; they are par-cooked, then sectioned off.

The River Road Tavern in Bedford has gone in the opposite direction. According to kitchen manager Joe Carey, it was important to find the narrowest cut of shoestring potatoes available. Super-skinny cuts of potato have more surface area to crisp up in the fryer, he said.

“Ours are three-sixteenths of an inch thick, so they get nice and golden and crispy. They don’t get as soggy as some of the thicker fries. We don’t hand-cut them. We actually buy them, but we get them special ordered, so they are always consistent. We’re the only ones around that serves them this thin.”

Crinkle-cut fries

Crinkle-cut french fries sound like a really good idea. Cutting the potatoes in a zig-zag pattern gives them a much larger surface area-to-volume ratio than regular straight-cut fries, and should be extra golden-brown and crispy. Unfortunately, when ordered at most restaurants, they usually come to the table, undercooked, pale and soggy.

Joe Carey from the River Road Tavern said it’s a bit of a mystery.
“I don’t know what’s going on with them,” he said. “I don’t know if they just aren’t being cooked long enough. I’ll be honest, they’re my least favorite cut. I like crispy fries; if you don’t like crispy fries, then maybe the crinkle-cuts are for you, but I just, I think they’re bland, even when they’re seasoned.”

Charley Moore from the 603 Brewery agreed. “[Crinkle-cuts] seem to steam and hold in the moisture a little more,” he said. “With any kind of potato, you want to pull out as much moisture as possible. That’s what gives you your crispiness. They [crinkle-cut fies] seem to hold in more water. Once you bite them, even when you fry them up, they seem to soften faster.”

Consideration No. 3: How are the french fries cooked?

Every style of fry is different to some degree, but many of the best fries have a few steps in common.

After cutting the potatoes, most ambitious french fry makers soak them in cold water.

“We put them in cold water overnight in the refrigerator,” John Ramsey said, “to leach the starch out. If you don’t do that they’ll burn without being crispy. They’ll turn brown but be sloppy, limp fries; no one likes that.”

“We usually soak them for three to four hours to pull off some of the starch,” Charley Moore from 603 Brewery said, “then we rinse them off again so they’re not foamy.

Matt Berry from Unwined is even more exact. “We give them a quick overnight ferment,” he said, “in a one and a half percent salinity bath.”

Another common french fry technique is frying the potatoes twice — once at a low temperature to cook the interior of the fry, and a second time at a higher temperature to crisp up the outside. The first, low-temperature fry is referred to as “oil blanching.”

“We blanch them and then we cool them down,” John Ramsey said, “and then we cook them to order with a high temperature.” Although he doesn’t blanch the potatoes in oil, Josh Buxton said it is extremely important to precook potatoes before frying them to serve to customers.

“We just boil them in salted water,” Ramsey said. “They’re cooked whole and that also helps season them. We don’t want them to be too soft. When we drop them in the fryer we’re just looking to crisp them up.”

Consideration No. 4: What kind of oil are they fried in?

There are two schools of thought when it comes to french fry oil. One is to use a mild, neutral-tasting oil that won’t distract from the flavor of the potato.

“We use a canola oil for our fryers,” Joe Carey from the River Road Tavern said. “We’ve used peanut oil in the past, but with all the allergies we’ve moved away from that.”

“Our trick is we use canola oil,” Renee McMaster from HotMess Poutine said. “Olive oil is really good for potatoes, and peanut oil as well … if I use a red potato I will use peanut oil.”

Some olive oils are excellent for frying — the ones with what is called a high smoke point, meaning that they won’t burn at frying temperatures. Virgin and extra-virgin olive oils usually have a low smoke point and will fill your kitchen with caustic smoke. A good rule for cooking with olive oil is that the pricier it is, the worse it is for frying.

The other approach to french fry oil is to use an extremely flavorful oil (with a high smoke point) to add savory notes to the finished fries.

“We only use beef tallow,” said John Ramsey from the Stark House Tavern. “There’s no vegetable oil in the whole building, and no seed oil. It’s all tallow and olive oil.” (If you’ve ever heard an older relative rhapsodize about how good McDonald’s french fries used to be, this is what they are talking about. Until the 1980s, McDonald’s fried everything in beef tallow, which was affordable for them and delicious for their customers. But, as Robert Frost wrote, ‘Nothing gold can stay.”)

Harpoon Brewery in Manchester also leans into savory fry oil — customers can ask to have their french fries finished in duck fat.

“It just honestly produces a better product,” said Harpoon’s Steve Shoemaker. “The denser fat and flavor of the duck goes somewhat deep into the french fries. It just produces a much better fry. I’ve tried beef tallow. I tried various iterations of canola, corn, peanut oil, all of those things. This seems to work ultimately the best.” Because duck fat is denser than vegetable oils, he explained, it takes longer for the water vapor to be forced out of the potatoes, giving the whole enterprise a comparatively golden-brown and savory finish. The kitchen at Harpoon has multiple fryers working at any given time, he said. “If somebody is a vegetarian, we can cook [the fries] in a combination of canola and sunflower oil. That way they have options.”

Consideration No. 5: Toppings and seasonings

While there is a beauty to the simplicity of hot, crispy french fries served with a sprinkle of salt, a well-made batch of fries can serve as a canvas for more ambitious presentations.

Peter Macone is the co-owner of the Republic Brewing Co. in Manchester. He said Republic’s fries are outstanding on their own but what really sets them apart is how they are finished.

“They’re cooked to order,” he said, “then tossed with Aleppo pepper, fine herbs — which is just an assortment of, you know, French herbs chopped — and salt and pepper. But one thing that is always a little bit of a surprise for people is the fried capers. We crisp capers with our fries. You can walk by tables often and hear customers sort of debating what it is that’s in their fries that’s so good. People often refer to our fries as, they’ll say ‘truffle fries,’ and in your head, you’re thinking, ‘It’s nothing like a truffle flavor,’ but they just know that the flavors stand out.”

“We toss them in chives,” Josh Buxton said, “and salt and Parmesan cheese, and then we just toss in a very little drizzle of oil so that the cheese and the chives can stick to them.”

John Ramsey from the Stark House Tavern said french fries are infinitely adaptable — “we’ll use truffle oil with Parmesan,” he said, or “we’ll make a short rib poutine with cheese curds.”

But it is tater tots that really shine with extra toppings.

“We have several different ways we serve them. On the menu with barbecue brisket, or we’ll toss it in Buffalo sauce with blue cheese crumbles, or ranch dressing, and we have a sweet chili sauce we make with some sesame oil, like a sesame vinaigrette, a little Asian taste to it,” Ramsey said.

Fries and wine
We asked Emma Round, owner of Unwined Wine Bar and Bistro in Milford, “What wine would you suggest to go with french fries?”
“The best Champagne you can get, always. And I highly recommend devouring both in a bubble bath or hot tub!!”

Consideration No. 6: Dipping sauces

Purists may prefer ketchup or a splash of malt vinegar with their french fries, but something about dipping sauces brings out an extra level of creativity in some cooks.

“[Fries] come with a special fry sauce of ours,” Joe Carey from the River Road Tavern said. “It used to be part of a recipe for a spicy tuna roll; then someone dipped a fry in it one day and we decided that it went from a sushi sauce to a fry sauce for potatoes, and now we sell it by the pint. It comes with every order of fries or every sandwich that comes with fries. It has a sesame base, so it tastes almost like a peanut sauce, but there’s no peanuts in it whatsoever. I can’t share the rest of the ingredients, but it’s creamy and really savory.”

603 Brewery’s French Fry Flight comes with four different sauces.

“Obviously, we have our classic ketchup,” Charley Moore said. “And then we have our pub mustard, which is a blend of different mustards and our Winni Ale. Our beer cheese, which is made with our 603 IPA. And then there is our secret sauce, which is a blend of sauces we create in house.”

Matt Berry at Unwined is extremely proud of their fry sauce.

“The sauce we have with our fries right now is kind of infamous,” he said. “It’s a cherry pepper ranch-style sauce. It’s a buttermilk ranch, and it starts its life as an aioli. Then we add just-pickled cherry peppers that we rinse the seeds out of and puree roughly in the food processor. That’s folded in with confit garlic and chives and herbs. But the real secret that to me makes ranch ranch is tarragon. We use a lot of fresh tarragon in it.”

Josh Buxton refers to his french fry sauce as a “labor of love.”

“We make a great little potato,” Buxton said, “but I think the aioli that we make is what ties it all together. We make a Calabrian chili honey and we mix it with confit garlic. We make our own mayo and then we blend in some chili crunch. The honey takes at least three or four days to really combine the flavor. Confit garlic takes a few hours. You know, we make our own chili crunch. I think there’s more labor of love into the sauce than the actual potato.”

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Fry Panel

• French Fry Flight — 603 Brewery (42 Main St., Londonderry, 404-6123, 603brewery.com) is open Tuesday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
• Herbed potato wedges — Buxton’s Restaurant (Metro Market, 158 Rockingham Road, Derry, 818-4105, buxtonspizza.com) is open Wednesday through Saturday from 4 to 9 p.m.
• Duck fat fries — Harpoon Brewery Manchester (Queen City Center, 215 Canal St., Manchester, 945-3797, harpoonbrewery.com/manchester-brewery) is open Wednesday and Thursday from noon to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from noon to 10 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 6 p.m.
• Poutine and french fries — HotMess Poutine (973-7001, facebook.com/goeycheese) serves southern New Hampshire throughout food truck season.
• Shoestring fries — River Road Tavern (193 S. River Road, Bedford, 206-5837, riverroadtavernbedford.com) is open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
• French fries and tater tots fried in beef tallow — Stark House Tavern (487 S. Stark Highway, Weare, 487-6002, starkhousetavern.com) is open Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday from noon to 8 p.m.
• Fries with capers — Republic Brewing Co. (72 Old Granite St., Manchester, 836-3188, republicbrewingcompany.com)
• Tarragon fries — Unwined Wine Bar and Bistro (1 Nashua St., Milford, 213-6703, unwinednh.com) is open Wednesday and Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 4 to 10 p.m.
  

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Featured photo: Courtesy photo