The Weekly Dish 24/06/27

News from the local food scene

New Social Club Ice Cream location: Laconia’s popular ice cream shop and bakery The Social Club Creamery has opened a new location in Concord at 138 N. Main St., Concord (333-2111, socialclubcreamery.com). In addition to house-made ice cream flavors like Roasted Strawberry, Honeycomb, and Maple Latte, the Creamery offers seasonal specialties like Pistachio Cannoli and Mango Sorbet. Baked goods include seasonal and classic cookies. It is open seven days a week, 1 to 9 p.m.

Italy’s grapes: Wine on Main (9 N Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host a guided tasting of six Italian wines on Tuesday, July 2, and Wednesday, July 3, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. The cost is $35 per person, and includes six wines and light snacks. Visit wineonmainnh.com/event.

Heirloom salads: Bedrock Gardens (19 High Road, Lee, 659-2993, bedrockgardens.org) will host a class in the “art of salletting” from John Forti, author of The Heirloom Gardener, Tuesday July 2, at 1 p.m. Learn skills and recipes to make your own special salads. The cost is $35 for non-members. Visit eventbrite.com for tickets.

Circus and a Greek dinner: Join Ya Mas Greek Taverna (275 Rockingham Park Blvd, The Mall at Rockingham Park, Salem, 635-4230, yamasnh.com) for dinner and a show during the run of the Flip Circus at Rockingham Park (99 Rockingham Park Blvd., Salem) Friday, June 28, through Sunday, July 7. Present your tickets before or after a performance for a special three-course adult meal for $25, or a two-course children’s meal for $10.

Stolen Kiss

I don’t have to tell you that this Saturday, June 22, is National Kissing Day. You’ve been stocking up on breath mints and lip balm for weeks.

There are quite a few kissing-themed cocktails. One popular one is called the Kiss Me. It’s one of those drinks that’s fairly simple in execution but calls for ingredients most of us are unlikely to have on hand. It will almost certainly require a trip to the liquor store. Because of this, you might want to save this recipe for a special occasion, like National Kissing Day.

Surprisingly, the most difficult ingredient to track down for this drink is strawberry schnapps. In the end, it required a work-around to replicate, which, in turn, required changing up the recipe’s traditional ratios. It’s easy enough to make strawberry syrup and mix it with vodka and end up with something very like schnapps.

In spite of using (almost) the same ingredients, this cocktail is different enough from a classic Kiss Me that it deserves a name of its own.

Stolen Kiss

  • 1 part rye whiskey
  • 1 part “strawberry schnapps” – see below
  • 1 part passionfruit cocktail — I like Goya’s; it’s delicious and easily available in the apple juice aisle at your favorite supermarket
  • 3 parts prosecco

Making Strawberry “Schnapps”

Combine equal amounts of frozen strawberries and granulated sugar, by weight, in a small saucepan.

Cook over medium heat, until the strawberries give up all their juice — encourage this with a potato masher — and the mixture comes to a boil.

Remove from heat, add the juice of half a lemon, and allow to cool.

Strain using a fine-mesh strainer. Eat the solids that are left behind on an English muffin or a crumpet; you won’t be sorry.

Bottle and save in the refrigerator for several weeks, although you’ll be lucky if it lasts through the weekend.

To make a decent substitute for strawberry schnapps, combine one part strawberry syrup with two parts medium-shelf vodka. I like Tito’s for this.

The Actual Cocktail

Combine the rye, “schnapps” and passionfruit with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake enthusiastically.

Measure out and gently pour the prosecco into the cocktail shaker and stir gently. If you have an actual cocktail spoon, one with a long twisty handle, it will do a good job at mixing the drink thoroughly without de-fizzing the prosecco. If you don’t have one, a wooden spoon or even a fork will work well enough; just remember that you are mixing this gently, as if it might explode.

Strain the cocktail — again, gently — into a Champagne flute.

Drink — hopefully with company — to a kissing-themed song. There are any number of kissing songs, but my personal recommendation would be for Louis Armstrong’s version of “A Kiss to Build a Dream On.” Given agreeable company, it might make your heart feel as fizzy as the cocktail.

There’s a lot going on with this cocktail. The fact that it’s in a Champagne flute means that the fruity notes won’t hit your nose right away. Something like 70 percent of what we “taste” is actually dependent on what we smell. Because of the shape of the flute, you’ll catch this drink’s fruitiness on the back end, but with your first sip the rye will take a guitar solo. It’s on the second, third, or 17th sip that everything will fall into place. Appropriately enough, it tastes like a flirtation.

Featured Photo: Stolen Kiss. Photo by John Fladd.

A long road to shortcake

Strawberry Sunday in Hollis

By John Fladd
[email protected]

If you had to feed more than 1,000 guests, what would it take?

If you were part of the Hollis Woman’s Club (holliswomansclub.org), you’d start with 65 sheet pans of shortcake biscuits, 58 quarts of cream and 360 quarts of strawberries, then go from there.

For the past 80 years or so, the Town of Hollis has held a strawberry festival each June.

“The Town Band was founded in 1943,” said Ardie Henry, the Festival’s Director of Communications. “The first record we have of a strawberry festival is in 1946.” The Festival was a Town Band project until the 1970s. By that time, Henry said, “it had gotten too large to be handled by just one organization, so the Hollis Woman’s Club stepped in to help. Since 1978, it has been a combined effort of the Town Band, who play the music, and the Woman’s Club, [who] does the strawberry dessert part.”

For a small town event, the annual Strawberry Festival pulls in a lot of visitors.

“The most we’ve ever had is 1,300,” said Henry, “and last year we had 1,100, so we make a lot of shortcake, hull and cut a lot of strawberries, and whip a lot of cream. It’s a very large effort.” The Woman’s Club members make almost everything themselves.

“We don’t make the strawberries,” Henry said. “We get them locally from Brookdale Farm, right in Hollis. But we make everything else by hand. We have available strawberry shortcake, strawberry ice cream and strawberry sundaes.” The ice cream comes from Dr. Davis Ice Cream in Pepperell, Mass.

Although the festival, the band and the Woman’s Club are all centered in Hollis, the festival is a team effort spread out across many towns.

“This is one of the major fundraisers for the organizations [the Woman’s Club and the Town Band],” the Woman’s Club wrote in a recent press release, “each of which offers scholarships and supports other community endeavors. The Hollis Town Band currently has seventy members on its roster coming from eighteen different communities.” The Women’s Club is just as wide-ranging, said Ardie Henry. “It has approximately 80 members. There are women from Hollis, Brookline, Nashua, Milford, Amherst, Northwood, Merrimack and other surrounding towns, including northern Mass.” According to the press release, all members of the Women’s Club are requested to participate in some capacity. “We have several women who volunteer to bake,” Henry said, adding that other jobs include hulling, washing, slicing and sugaring more than 500 pounds of strawberries.

Henry said she personally is looking forward to good weather. Ideally, she said, “people bring their chairs and blankets, and if they want to have a late lunch and then have their strawberry shortcake, they can do that.”

The Hollis Strawberry Festival
When: Sunday, June 23, 2 to 4 p.m.
Where: Hollis Town Common, 7 Monument Square, Hollis (in the event of inclement weather, the Strawberry Festival will be moved to the Hollis Brookline Middle School, 25 Main St., Hollis)

The Weekly Dish 24/06/20

News from the local food scene

On the grill: The Concord Food Co-Op (24 S. Main St. in Concord, 225-6840, concordfoodcoop.coop) holds a Grillin’ and Chillin’ event on Thursday, June 20, Friday, June 21, and Saturday, June 22, in its parking lot. From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m the event will feature grillin’ and chillin’. From 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. visitors will be able to shop with local vendors. And from 2 to 5 p.m., there will be snacks and beverages.

Lavender: There are still tickets available for lavender-inspired Farm to Table Dinners in the Barn on Saturday, June 22, and Sunday, June 23, at 5 p.m. at Lavender Fields at Pumpkin Blossom Farm (393 Pumpkin Hill Road, Warner, 456-2443, pumpkinblossomfarm.com). These will be five-course dinners with lavender-infused cuisine prepared by Chef Bryan Leary, founder of Perspective Catering, and Michael Prete, founder of Portsmouth Catering. Tickets are $150 each and available through the Farm’s website.

Appreciating heritage foods: A family-friendly event featuring local food, drinks and entertainment, Farm-a-Q returns to Tuckaway Farm (36 Captain Smith Emerson Road, Lee) on Sunday, June 23, from noon to 5 p.m. Tickets begin at $25. Proceeds support the Heritage Harvest Project, whose mission is to promote regional heritage foods and agricultural diversity among farmers, chefs and local communities. See “Farm-a-Q” on Eventbrite to purchase tickets, which start at $25.

Frangipane

There are words floating around in the air that we’ve heard, that we’d love to use in conversation, but whose meaning we don’t know. We feel like we should know. We’ve read them in books or heard fancy people use them. We’re pretty sure that everyone else in the world knows them, but we don’t want to admit our ignorance.

My favorite one of these words is “insouciant.”

Another of them is “frangipane.” Don’t let this intimidate you. It’s just the term for an almond cream that is used in pastry sometimes.

Frangipane-Raspberry Pie

  • 1 pre-baked pie shell – you can buy one of these premade and frozen at the supermarket or you can make your own or you can buy premade pie dough and bake it according to the instructions on the box; blind baking (making a pie crust without any filling in it) is a whole angsty topic that requires a much longer discussion than we have time for today; seriously, the premade dough makes a very credible pie crust, don’t feel guilty about using it
  • 1 1/3 stick (150 g) butter
  • ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1½ cup (150 g) almond flour – I like Bob’s Red Mill
  • 1 teaspoon almond extract
  • ½ cup (170 g) seedless raspberry jam – I don’t like raspberry seeds, but if you’re some sort of thrill-seeker, feel free to use the full-octane stuff

Preheat your oven to 325°F.

If you’ve baked a pie shell yourself, let it cool completely.

Using a stand mixer, beat the butter and sugar until they are fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Most Kitchen Smart People will tell you to use softened butter, but a stand mixer will beat cold butter into submission and be happy about it. If you don’t have a stand mixer, you should probably listen to the experts.

Add the egg. Because the yolk contains a lot of fat, it will mix in with the butter-fluff without complaining, and bring protein with it to give structure to frangipane while it bakes. Follow this with the almond flour and extract.

Beat the mixture until it is fluffy again.

Meanwhile, glop spoon the raspberry jam into your pie shell and spread it around so that it covers the entire bottom.

Transfer the almond mixture to the pie shell, on top of the jam. Spread it evenly with an offset spatula if you have one. If you don’t, try the back of a large spoon. You’ll say to yourself, “What’s the big deal? I beat this until it was fluffy. Twice! I can spread it around with a butter knife!” No, you can’t. While fluffy and delicious, frangipane is stubborn; it needs to be persuaded to spread out on top of the jam instead of mixing into it. Use the spatula to spread the filling toward you until it reaches the edge of the pie pan, then rotate the pan and repeat, until you’ve covered the whole pie.

Wish your pie well, then bake it for 45 to 50 minutes. Check on it during the last 10 minutes or so of baking. If it’s starting to look a little dark, cover it with a sheet of aluminum foil.

Remove from the oven and let it cool completely before serving. You might want to garnish it with whipped cream and fresh raspberries.

This is a delicious pie. It tastes primarily of almonds at first — rich, dense, and a little pecan-pie-like, but the crispy part where the frangipane has bonded with the side crust is something special. The sharpness of the raspberries cuts through the richness of the pie but adds to its sweetness.

There are two advantages to this pie. One, of course, is the pie itself. It’s a really good pie. The other is social. When you share this — and you really will want to show it off — and a friend asks what it is, you can flip your hair insouciantly, and say, “Oh, this? It’s just some frangipane. How do you feel about frangipane?” HA! Take that, Gertrude!

Featured Photo: Frangipane. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Clifton McGee

“My journey in the food industry began as a dishwasher/caterer in Clarks Summit, Pennsylvania, in a four-diamond hotel-restaurant complex,” said Clifton McGee. “I entered Johnson & Wales as a student in 1984…” After 18 years holding positions from sous chef to executive chef and chef de cuisine, he started teaching culinary arts in the Manchester School District in 2002, he said. “I’ve always trained younger adults in the business and believed teaching culinary arts would be an effective fit with my skill set. I’ve never regretted the choice. I’ve had the pleasure of teaching many great high school students from Manchester and the surrounding towns.”

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I love having a good immersion blender. Many tasks are less cumbersome with a powerful hand blender.

What would you have for your last meal?

Wellfleet oysters fried or au naturel. Being a chef in New England, I default to seafood. I love the briny fresh flavor of raw Wellfleet oysters and I love them fried and served with a dry sherry.

What is your favorite local eatery?

Revival Kitchen in Concord. I live nearby and I like seasonal menus, especially New England seasonal menus. I also have an ex-student who is the sous chef there. I like supporting local businesses. I avoid corporate eateries.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see eating your food?

Jasper White and Lydia Shire … both were Boston chefs in the ’80s restaurant scene.

What is your favorite thing you teach your students to prepare?

My favorite thing to teach the students is making bread: Lean dough, soft dough, sweet dough and laminated dough. I like teaching bread lessons because it’s relatively new to my repertoire and requires evaluations and adjustments to achieve proficiency.

What would you like to accomplish professionally, in the long term?

In my next chapter, professionally, I aspire to transfer my training skills to restaurant owners, hands on, with best practices in the kitchen. This would include building an efficient team, stressing the importance of an organized work space, and menu creation. Long term, it would be a dream of mine to head north, live off the land and perhaps open a small country store/diner.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Chicken and dumplings. Home food is comfort food, simple, flavorful but not overly elaborate. It’s also the favorite dish of my stepdaughter and mother-in-law. I know what’s important.

Soft Roll Dough
From Clifton McGee
(Like most serious bakers, Chef McGee measures most of his ingredients by weight, not volume. The cups/tablespoon measurements are approximations. If possible, please use his measurements.)


12 ounces (1½ cups) water
0.4 ounces (about two envelopes) active dry yeast
1 pound 5 ounces bread flour (about 5 cups)
2 teaspoons salt
2 ounces (about ⅓ cup) sugar
1 ounce (about 3 Tablespoons) nonfat milk powder
1 ounce (1 Tablespoon) shortening
1 ounce (1 Tablespoon) butter

Add active dry yeast to 105°F water. Mix well and set aside for 5 minutes.
Add all dry ingredients to the mixing bowl and fats. Mix briefly with a dough hook.
Add the yeast and water mixture to the bowl and mix on speed 1 until the dough forms a ball and the bowl is clean and incorporated into the dough ball.
Put mixer on speed 2 for 4 to 6 minutes. Remove bowl from mixer and cover. Keep bowl in a warm area 70F° to 80F° until dough doubles in size (1½ to 2 hours).
Remove dough from bowl and press out the air (flatten and fold).
Cut dough into 1- to 2-ounce pieces and roll. Put on pan with parchment and cover with film wrap until doubled in size (30 minutes to 1 hour).
Bake at 400°F for 8 to 12 minutes.

Featured Photo: Clifton McGee, Chef and Instructor at Manchester School of Technology. Courtesy photo.

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