Author: John Fladd

A note about mangoes: Fresh, ripe mangoes are a gift, tender, juicy, sweet and perfumy. Even in New Hampshire, pretty much every supermarket will have fresh mangoes. Granted they might not be ripe, but with a little planning even the most ham-handed cook can buy a hard mango and let it ripen up for a week or so before eating it or cooking with it. But if you find yourself in a bind, mango-riping-wise what then?

Frozen fruit is just about perfect for making purees and syrups. The freezing process breaks down cell walls and lends itself to processing. Is it as good as an actual ripe mango? Not even remotely. Is it better than no mango? Infinitely.

The same goes for canned mangoes. Unlike their frozen brothers, their cell walls are mostly intact, so they won’t dissolve into mush. Diced “champagne mangoes” — the little yellow ones — would beat up a canned mango in the parking lot without breaking a sweat, but for a Mud Season tropical crème brûlée, it will do nicely.

¾ cup (230 g) mango puree

1/3 cup (79 g) sugar

2½ cups (567 g) heavy cream

pinch of salt

1 Tablespoon really good vanilla extract or vanilla paste

7 egg yolks

2 fresh, ripe mangos, diced, or 1 can mango cubes

Preheat your oven to 280ºF.

Separate your eggs, and put the yolks in a large bowl.

Puree mangoes in your blender. If you are using frozen mangoes, let them thaw first.

Whisk the mango puree, sugar, and heavy cream together in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat until it is “scalded” — this means hot, but not yet boiling (about 180ºF, if you’re using a thermometer).

Remove the cream mixture from heat, then, whisking like a crazy person, spoon a couple of tablespoons of the hot cream into the egg yolks. This is called “tempering.” It will slowly bring the yolks up to temperature without cooking them. Keep adding a few tablespoons at a time, whisking constantly; I use a ¼-cup measuring cup for this. When the yolks are incorporated into the cream, whisk in the vanilla.

Put ramekins into a couple of casserole dishes. I like to use the little glass jars that some yogurt comes in. Distribute your diced mango between the ramekins.

Pour your custard mixture into the ramekins — it should fill around 10 of the yogurt jars about three quarters of the way up. Pour hot water into the casserole dishes. This is called a “bain marie” and helps your crème brûlée heat evenly, so it doesn’t crack.

Heat on the middle rack of your oven for 20 to 40 minutes. It will probably take 40, but you should check on it every five minutes or so starting at 20. You want to cook the custard very gently, so it will not pick up much color. Check it by picking up one of the ramekins with a set of tongs and jiggling it. When it doesn’t slosh around but jiggles like Jell-o, it is ready to remove from the oven.

Remove the ramekins from their water bath and let them cool on your counter for half an hour or so, then chill them for at least three hours in the refrigerator.

Brûlée-ing them: Sprinkle sugar on the surface, then caramelize it into a thin candy shell that will crack when you tap it with the back of a spoon. Many cooks like to use a tiny blowtorch to do this. Pastry chefs use an industrial-strength broiler called a “salamander.” I like to use a plain, not-putting-on-airs plumber’s blow torch, the kind with a blue butane bottle that you buy at a hardware store.

Mango and vanilla are natural partners. This custard is cool, delicate and creamy, with little chunks of mango in it. The candy shell is warm and crisp and anything but delicate. It’s fancy, but even though you don’t indulge it very often, you’ve got a fancy side to you that needs to be let out of its cell every once in a while.

Featured photo: Mango Crème Brûlée. Photo by John Fladd.

Light, fruity varieties suit the season

By John Fladd
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March and April are when the highest-quality teas — the “first flush” teas — are harvested.

“This is an exciting time of year for teas,” said Danielle Beaudette, the owner of The Cozy Tea Cart (104A Route 13 in Brookline, thecozyteacart.com, 249-9111).

Later in the year there will be other tea harvests across Asia — the second flush in late spring, the monsoon flush during the summer, and the autumnal flush in September and October — but the first flush teas are something special. Tea plants spend the winter months gathering nutrients and minerals, she said which give teas harvested at this time of year a pure and delicate flavor.

Spring is exciting in the tea world too, because the change in weather brings a change in tea enthusiasts’ drinking habits. During the winter, Beaudette said, tea drinkers tend to drink chais and spicier warming blends. That changes come springtime.

“This is the time of year when we start moving into iced teas,” she said. “People want something a little fruity with the warmer weather.” It’s a good time to try new teas and to pair them with food. To this end, her shop offers seasonal tasting flights of teas with foods that complement them.

Here are four of her pairings for the new spring tea season.

Pairing 1: A plain scone with English caramel black tea

This is a fairly substantial black tea that is tempered by the sweetness of caramel.

“The scone is slightly sweet,” Beaudette said, “but mostly savory, which balances out the sweetness of the caramel.” This tea is a blend of black teas from China and Assam in northeast India.

Pairing 2: A cinnamon chip muffin with Assam East Frisian black tea

“Cinnamon has a strong flavor,” Beaudette said, “and you need a tea that can stand up to it and not be overwhelmed.” She compares it to pairing a bold red wine with hearty food. “This tea blend uses golden leaf Assam, Darjeeling and Ceylon teas. Its infusion is brisk enough to handle the sweet and spicy flavors of the muffin.”

Pairing 3: Broccoli and cheddar quiche with Sencha Fukamushi green tea

“This is a Japanese green tea,” she said, explaining that there is a huge difference between the flavors of Japanese and Chinese green teas. “The Chinese tea has a nutty flavor, because it is pan-fired. The Japanese green teas are steamed, which gives them a more vegetal flavor.” Additionally, she says, some Japanese tea producers shade their tea bushes for a couple of months before harvesting the tea. The leaves have to work harder and thus produce more chlorophyll, which is another reason why it has a “greener” flavor. The vegetal qualities of this Japanese tea are well-balanced with the strong vegetal taste of the broccoli in the quiche.

Pairing 4: A “loaded” chocolate chip cookie with Vanilla Indulgence herbal tea

This tea is not actually made from tea leaves; it is made with rooibos, a South African plant with a lightly sweet, nutty flavor with woody notes. This plays off the coconut and walnuts in the cookie, and clears a tea-drinker’s palate to help distinguish between its two types of chocolate. The vanilla in the tea complements the butter and chocolate.

Regardless of which tea a customer chooses, Beaudette stresses the importance of brewing it correctly: “The lighter the color of a tea, the shorter amount of time you should steep it, and the lower the temperature of the water. Darker teas require longer steeping at a higher temperature.” If you use a teabag, she said, please don’t steep it for more than two minutes. “You’ll be happier with it,” she said.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

Made in NH Expo offers foodie fun and more

By John Fladd
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When it comes to naming items produced in the Granite State, maple syrup might be the one and only thing that comes to mind. So prepare to have your mind blown at the Made in NH Expo from Friday, April 7, through Sunday, April 9, at the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown Hotel, 700 Elm St. in Manchester. According to the Business NH magazine website, the Made In NH “Try It & Buy It” Expo, now in its 27th year, will offer attendees the opportunity to discover a plethora of unique products available right here in New Hampshire.

“There will be nearly 100 vendors this year,” said Kelly Keating, Event Director for Granite Media Group, the producer of the event, in an email. “We have woodworkers, furniture makers, chocolatiers, bakers, jewelers, homemade jams and jellies, outdoor clothing, T-shirts, authors, including two children’s authors, knitters, metal work, photographers, a lavender farm, potters, all-natural face and body treatments, women’s specialty clothing, children’s clothing, candles, tide clocks, fudge, custom cowboy boots, hand-tied fishing lures and more. We also have The Libation Station, an area where attendees 21 and over with ID can sample New Hampshire-made wine, beer, mead and spirits.”

For foodies, the Made in NH Expo will offer “lots of mouth-watering treats on hand to sample. Chocolate, baklava, spanakopita, spices and sauces, coffee, cheesecake, whoopie pies, cookies, cake cups, honey, pot pies and, new this year, an ostrich meat farmer,” Keating said.

According to the Made in NH Expo Facebook page, this year’s food vendors will include Twins 4 Life Creations, featuring all-natural New Hampshire blueberry sauce and jellies made from herbal tea; Lemongrass Restaurant and Sake Bar by Chef Ooh, bringing seasonings, dressings and sauces that give food an authentic Asian flavor; Granite State Candy Shoppe, offering gourmet chocolates and super-premium homemade ice cream; The Pot Pie Bar; Van Otis Chocolate; Fabrizia Lemon Baking Co.; The Mill Fudge Factory; Thistle’s All Natural, specializing in handmade zucchini salsas; Dandido Hot Sauce; Granite State Freeze Dried Candy; Holy Moly Snacks, with thin crispy beef chips in multiple flavors and a gluten-free option; Maggie’s Munchies, offering old-fashioned New England desserts like whoopie pies; Choo-Choo’s Cheesecakes; Youla’s Bakery, bringing traditional Greek desserts and delicacies; and many more.

For those who have never attended a Made in NH event, Keating offers enthusiastic encouragement. “Coming to the Expo is a unique way to see all of the variety of unique locally made products they may not have realized are made right in their backyard,” she said. “They’ll find artisanal food and beverages, handmade crafts, home goods and more, and they can talk with the makers. They can sample food and beverages made in New Hampshire, allowing them to experience the flavors of the state. Attendees can learn more about local businesses and products made in New Hampshire, gaining a great appreciation for the local economy and craftsmanship, and support sustainability at the same time.”

For kids, Keating said, there will be a balloon artist and face painter. There will be rescue animals at the event for people to meet, and music to give a festive atmosphere. In addition, Keating said, “There will be … a full-sized airplane on display, built by New Hampshire students through a program with the Aviation Museum of New Hampshire.“

On a personal note, Keating enjoys discovering new vendors and products she may not have known about before. “It’s nice to play a role in supporting small businesses in the state and seeing the creativity and talents of New Hampshire artisans,” she said. “The sense of appreciation for all things made locally makes the Made in NH Expo a fun experience.”

Made in NH Expo
When: Friday, April 5, 1 to 7 p.m.; Saturday, April 6, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Sunday, April 7, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Where: DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown Hotel, 700 Elm St., Manchester
Cost: adults $8, seniors (65+) $7, children (under 14) free; tickets (available online or at the door) valid for one-day admission to the Expo.
More: www.madeinnhexpo.com

Featured Photo: Past Year. Courtesy photo.

Potato Concept opens a restaurant in Manchester

By John Fladd
[email protected]

Branden Rainer and Lauren Lefebvre run a restaurant entirely dedicated to baked potatoes.

“We are the Potato Concept,” Lefebvre said. Aside from drinks, everything the newly opened Potato Concept (119A Hanover St. in Manchester, thepotatoconcept.com, 667-0714) serves, even salads, comes on a baked potato.

“These are classic gourmet, twice-baked potatoes,” she sid, “filled with proteins, meats and fresh salads.”

Although the Hanover Street restaurant is new, The Potato Concept has been around for three years, catering events and putting up pop-up restaurants in breweries.

“That’s how we got started,” Lefebvre said. “We’d pair up with local breweries and take our recipes with us and do pop-ups there. Breweries have very limited kitchen space and they really welcomed our food.”

The couple welcomes the chance to cook in their own kitchen.

“Our kitchen here is a luxury,” Rainer said. “We’re so proud of it; it’s ours.”

He is very proud of how their business has evolved: “We’ve got a pedigree that we’re proud of.”

While focusing so intently on one food — baked potatoes — seems as if it might be limiting, Lefebvre said their repertoire is constantly growing.

“We have curated probably 50 different recipes or so that we’ve taken to markets and fairs,” she said. “We just had a St. Patrick’s Day special with corned beef and spicy mustard.” The most popular potatoes the two sell are their Zesty Cheeseburger, “which is pretty much what it sounds like,” Lefebvre said; a PoTaco, “which is like a regular taco, but with a potato instead of a shell,” and a Buffalo Chicken Potato, which Rainer insists isn’t too spicy for New Hampshire tastes.

“We try to think of people’s palates and their level of spice,” Rainer said, but points out that Manchester diners have expanded the sorts of foods they eat over the past few years.

“Just look at this neighborhood,” Rainer said. “We have a tavern and an upscale seafood restaurant on one side of us, and a Nepalese restaurant and the Hanover Street Chop House on the other. Manchester is very diverse, and looking for new things.”

Lefebvre and Rainer go through a lot of potatoes.

“During Fair Season, we’ll literally buy a ton at a time from a farm in Massachusetts,” Lefebvre said. “We do a lot of catering; we’re always looking to take on new clients.”

After several years and countless potatoes, Rainer and Lefebvre have a well-polished system. “Lauren handles most of the food,” Rainer said. “I’m more of a sous chef and a greeter. We’ve been working with other small food businesses and we’ve had a lot of help each step along the way.”

He cites their work with Smokin’ Tin Roof (smokintinroof.com), a Manchester-area hot sauce producer. “People like a spicy potato,” he said. “It’s been an evolution.”

Lefebvre has developed their recipes on her own.

“There has been a lot of trial and error,” she said, “though thankfully not many errors.”

“We like to think of ourselves as delivering value,” Rainer said, “and potatoes are a great lunch value.”

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

Spring is finally here. It’s not like it’s been a long, cold and lonely winter — more of a muddy, slushy, test of emotional endurance — but the idea of mild, pre-mosquito weather is a deeply appealing one.

The time has come for porch-sitting.

Maybe not for a long stretch of time — it still gets chilly after dark — but it’s definitely the start of Porch Season. Which, of course, calls for cocktails. It’s probably a little premature to break out the tiki mugs yet (that’s what Memorial Day weekend is for: action movies and loud Hawaiian shirts) but definitely something with a hint of the tropics.

Which, sooner or later, means grenadine.

If you’re not a huge fan of tropical drinks, you might not be terribly familiar with grenadine. In theory, it’s a syrup made from pomegranate juice that will lend a juicy flavor to a cocktail, typically one with five or more ingredients. In practice, it’s a bright red syrup that mostly gets added to drink recipes to add sweetness and a tropical roseyness. Think about a tequila sunrise: That beautiful ombre color comes from grenadine and orange juice playing off each other.

Is there a way to make grenadine a more active participant in your porch-sitting cocktail?

As it turns out, there is.

Making your own grenadine

Combine one part sugar and two parts unsweetened pomegranate juice in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it comes to a boil. Stir to make sure all the sugar has dissolved, then remove from heat.

That’s it.

This is really good grenadine. If you happen to have a bottle of regular grenadine laying around, do a taste comparison. Taste the commercial stuff. It’s fine — it’s sweet and vaguely fruity, about what you’d expect from grenadine. Now try the homemade stuff. The sheer juiciness of this might rock you back on your heels. It’s sweet, but not cloyingly. It tastes deeply purple, with a little acidity that tickles those glands under your ears that flare up sometimes when you eat sharp cheddar.

Now try the commercial grenadine again. Why have you never noticed that artificial flavor before? This tastes like corn syrup and sodium benzoate.

Don’t get me wrong; I’m as big a fan of artificial ingredients as the next man. If they make something taste better, or keep it from molding, or make it feel better in my mouth, I’m all for it.

And yet.

This homemade grenadine tastes an order of magnitude better than the commercial stuff. It’s also incredibly simple to make. There’s no excuse not to.

Pomegranate Daisy

• ¾ ounce homemade grenadine (see above)
• ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
• 1½ ounces dry gin – I decided not to go with a fancy gin this time and used Gordon’s; I think it was a good call

Combine all ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker.

Strain into a coupé glass.

Ask your digital assistant to play “Everyone Come Outside” by the Pomegranates. Sip contentedly on your front steps, calling out to strangers: “Forgive the intrusion, but you’re having a Very Good Hair Day!” or “Bless you, Child of the Universe!”

The best way to describe this cocktail — an abridged version of a classic Clover Leaf — is “juicy.” The homemade grenadine shines through, and its tartness plays off the lemon juice. A botanical gin, or some other gin that takes itself too seriously, would shoulder the juices aside and demand attention for itself. A modest, workmanlike gin like Gordon’s is a team player. It makes itself known and gives the enterprise a backbone but is happy to give equal billing to the juices.

It’s a good taste to take with you to the porch.

Featured photo: Pomegranate Daisy. Photo by John Fladd.