Drinks with John Fladd

Trinidad Sour

It’s easy to fall into a rut.

Ruts are comforting. They provide predictability and structure in a chaotic world with too many unwelcome surprises.

So it’s easy — for me, at any rate — to fall back on simple utility cocktails, made from three ingredients; four if you count ice. Some sort of spirit, something sour, and something sweet — this is the basic structure of a daiquiri, a gimlet, a margarita or a sour.

But a rut — no matter how comforting — can close you off from new possibilities. In this case, the mind-expanding novelty is using Angostura bitters as the main alcohol. Normally bitters are used — extremely sparingly — bring a bitter flavor to help balance out an otherwise sweet drink. Most of them, though, are suspended in a base that averages around 45 percent alcohol, or 90 proof. So, there is no reason why you couldn’t drink them in more substantial amounts.

1½ ounces Angostura bitters – you will probably want to use a knife to pry off the plastic cap that limits you to a dash of bitters at a time, or you’ll spend the next 15 minutes shaking your wrist to fill a jigger

½ ounce rye whiskey

¾ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 ounce orgeat – this is a sweet almond syrup, usually used in tropical drink; here it is used to balance out the bitter herbiness from the bitters

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker.

Shake it. At this point, you know how to do this.

Strain into a coupé or Nick & Nora glass.

Ask your digital assistant to play “Pressure Drop” by Toots and the Maytals.

Spend the next two and a half cocktails trying to identify what it is you’re tasting.

Probably the least useful word to describe this particular drink is “delicious.” It is actually delicious in fact — that’s not the issue. There’s a sweet, sherry-like, almost raisiny flavor that isn’t actually all that much like raisins or sherry. There’s a sweetness in the front end, but a bitter aftertaste that is nothing like dark chocolate or anything else you would call “bittersweet.” There are herbal notes from the Angostura — but not mint or rosemary, or any herb that you’re probably familiar with. You can try reading the label, but the Angostura Co. has kept their ingredients secret for over 200 years with the kind of secrecy usually reserved for nuclear codes.

So what are we left with?

Bittersweet fruitiness with herbs and the tiniest bit of rye in the background. This is the kind of cocktail you would drink with — OK, I don’t know what the day-to-day life of a monastic abbot is, but if he gets any vacation time and were to take a holiday in the Caribbean, this is what he would drink, wearing sandals, and a tropical shirt covered with pictures of little monks on it.

He would have checked into the hotel under the name Costello — a tiny, private joke that would make him smile to himself. The staff would greet him with fondness, and he would greet them by name in return.

At the bar by the pool, the bar manager would tap the young woman on duty on the shoulder and send her to wait on other customers, while he would mix this cocktail without needing to be told.

“Long flight?” he’d ask the abbot. “You look like you could use this.”

“Bless you, Leo,” the abbot would say, with a look of relieved fondness on his face. “You, sir, are a saint.”

“I’ll take your word for it,” Leo would say.

What’s your food story?

Project looks at relationships to what we eat

By John Fladd

[email protected]

Shanta Lee knows that you have a fascinating story about food, and she wants to hear it.

“We all are connected as humans to food,” she said. “Whether or not we want to walk across that bridge, whether or not it’s something either warm and cozy for us, or painful and uncomfortable, we all have a connection and a relationship to food.”

Lee is an artist, oral historian, photographer and poet. Her current project is called Food Stories: We Are What We Eat. She is gathering stories from people from different backgrounds that tell something specific about their relationships with food.

“It’s a discussion between food, memory, identity and our stories,” she said. “And the main goal is to get people thinking about ‘How do these things intersect?’ It’s all the different ranges and ways that we are connected to food — not just personal stories either, but also individuals who work in food industries, people who work with food sustainability, people who work with food insecurity, ordinary people who recall why they really can’t stand a certain kind of food.”

Ultimately, Lee said, these stories will culminate in an exhibition.

“Those stories, those vignettes, those visuals, those are all going to be within an exhibition that’s happening at some point in the fall this year in Manchester,” she said. “I’m still looking for a place. At some point soon, I’ll be putting out a call to artists, and inviting them to contribute to this exhibition as well, if they have their own pieces that they want to be a part of this exhibition about food.”

One of the parts of Lee’s project that excites her is a book that will tie in with the exhibition.

“When the exhibition takes place,” she said, “There will be a booklet, what you might traditionally call an exhibition catalog, and some of the stories will be in there. There might be some of the questions that I use to help prompt the writers who contributed the stories, so that maybe people can continue talking about the food stories, and still engage with the project.”

Some of the early stories she has received have been engrossing, Lee said.

“There is a story I just got from a person named Taffi: ‘One afternoon I was washing chicken feet and cleaning gizzards before putting them in the freezer. Each pair of chicken feet seemed to be speaking to me. I loved the unusual textures and colors of both chicken feet and the skins of gizzards, so I ran for my camera. I took pictures of various arrangements. For years, I’ve been concerned about the food I eat. I grow and put up most of what I eat. I buy my meat from farmers I know.’”

“So, Lee observed, “it’s talking about this deep relation to food and also the relationship to this specific kind of food.”

Another story came from a novice cook who was deeply determined to bake lasagna but got distracted by a video game and burned it to cinders.

“It was a funny story,” Lee said, “because we’ve all been there. We try so hard, we toil on it, on the dish, and then it burns. Again, whether it’s a bridge that brings together or a bridge that involves some kind of reaction to [a shared experience], there’s always a story with it and you don’t need much when it comes to involving or including food.”

Lee will collect stories for the next three or four months.

“I’m going to wrap up collecting stories by early June,” she said, “so I can prepare for the exhibition in the fall. People will be able to submit their stories to me through my website, ShantaLee.com, but I also have a Facebook page called Food Stories. People can DM me there, if they want. Ballot boxes will be showing up in different places in Manchester, so if people are so inclined to put pen to paper, they could do that.”

Ultimately, Lee said, this project is about the way food brings people together. “There’s a whole range of what attracts us to or detracts us from food,” she said, “but it’s also a social and cultural lubricant. There’s a reason we have the phrase, ‘breaking bread together.’”

Food Stories
To find out more about the Food Stories project and Shanta Lee’s partners in the project, visit shantalee.com/foodstories, her “Food Stories” Facebook page, or instagram.com/mz.shanta_lee.

Featured photo: Shanta Lee. Courtesy photo.

Meatballs and music

Elm Street eatery offers Swedish, red sauce, ‘Thanksgiving’ and other variations

By John Fladd

[email protected]

Even after 28 years in the business Kevin Cornish finds himself relearning a basic lesson of restaurant ownership: it doesn’t matter how delicious a dish is if none of your customers order it.

“We had a vegetarian meatball,” he said. “After cooking them seven days in a row without one person ordering them, we had to get rid of it.”

Rock ‘n Roll Meatballs, on Manchester’s Elm Street, is Cornish’s new restaurant, themed around — perhaps not surprisingly — 1980s rock music and meatballs. After three decades of running his successful barbecue restaurant, KC’s Rib Shack, Cornish has decided to open a second place to indulge one of his other great passions, live music.

“I love live music,” Cornish said. ”It’s probably my biggest hobby. This place [the restaurant’s location] has been opened twice with different people running it and pretty much closed twice. Manchester hasn’t always supported live music all that much. Especially in something this size, you need a scene to create a scene. There’s got to be little, ragged rock clubs for big rock clubs to succeed. My band used to play at Mad Bob’s and if we brought 25 people it was great. It was a little hole in the wall and a little bar, but in New Hampshire you can’t have a bar — you have to have a restaurant.”

Cornish had seen a few meatball-specific restaurants on the West Coast and liked the idea. He and three partners decided to adopt that formula for their menu. Despite his number of years as a restaurant owner, though, Cornish found that developing recipes for the new place required a long process of trial and error.

“When it came to the meatballs,” he said, “for one day or several days, we’d just work on beef meatballs, or beef and pork meatballs, or chicken meatballs. For months leading up to this, my wife was so sick of eating chicken meatballs — she was like, ‘What do we have for dinner tonight?’ Meatballs, you know?”

Ultimately, developing the recipe turned out to be a group project.

“We would come in and we lined this whole bar up with all the ingredients we would need. Each of us would take a table, and a bowl, and work up a recipe. It was nice to get in here and cook seven different types of meatballs in an afternoon, and being able to try them right next to each other. By coming in here and having everybody make a different one … we were able to zero in on, ‘Wow, we really like the flavor of this, but maybe, but we like the mouth-feel of this one, maybe that’s because this one was made with bread as opposed to this one made with panko breadcrumbs,’ and things like that. So we were able to kind of tweak and zero in on it and that’s what we did.”

Even after the kinks in a recipe have been ironed out, there’s still no guarantee that it will work on the restaurant’s menu. Which brings us back to the vegetarian meatball.

Rock ‘n Roll Meatballs’ menu is centered around five core meatballs: a standard red-sauce one, a Swedish meatball in a creamy sauce, a brisket-macaroni and cheese one, a “Thanksgiving” meatball made with ground turkey and stuffing, and a chicken Parmesan one.

One of the biggest surprises, though, was an appetizer that sold well from opening day onward. “The escargot is great,” Cornish said, a bit perplexed. *It’s a very simple dish, and it’s selling great.”

Rock n Roll Meatballs
179 Elm St., Manchester, 931-3654, rocknrollmeatballs.com
Open seven days a week: Monday through Thursday 4:30 to 9 p.m., Saturday noon to 10 p.m., and Sunday noon to 9 p.m. There will be live music twice monthly. Visit facebook.com/RnRMeatballs for notice of upcoming events.

Featured photo: Swedish Meatballs. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 25/02/13

News from the local food scene

Chocolate and raspberries: The martini-and-cupcake pairing at Copper Door (15 Leavy Drive, Bedford, 488-2677, or 41 S. Broadway, Salem, 458-2033, copperdoor.com) for February is a Chocolate Raspberry Martini, made with double chocolate vodka, dark creme de cacao, raspberry liqueur, cream, raspberry puree, and chocolate syrup, garnished with a glittered raspberry, for $14.75, and a Red Velvet Cupcake, with red velvet cake, a raspberry preserve filling, and cream cheese frosting, garnished with a white chocolate cup and glittered berries for $11.

Investing in kettle corn: Ken and Meredith Thomas, the owners of Ken’s Corn (68 Chester Road, Derry, 208-661-0282, kenscorn.com), have announced an unusual investment strategy to expand their kettle corn business. Using Honeycomb Credit (honeycombcredit.com) the Thomases are asking individuals to lend them expansion money, to be paid back with interest, rather than working through a traditional bank. Contact Ken’s Corn at [email protected].

Extremely good ports in the storm: WineNot Boutique (25 Main St., Nashua, 204-5569, winenotboutique.com) will host a Grand Port Tasting Thursday, Feb. 13, from 6 to 8 p.m. Explore seven distinct styles of Portuguese ports, from youthful ruby to aged tawny, in an evening of rich flavors. Tickets are $50, through eventbrite.com.

Bottle your own wine: Join the winemakers at Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, 244-3165, averillhousevineyard.com) Sunday, Feb.16, for a special Valentine’s Sunday Bottle Your Own experience, which includes a two-hour tasting, tour and bottle-your-own event. One bottle of wine is included, and additional bottles may be filled and purchased. Note: The wine being bottled is pre-selected by the vintner based on the weekly bottling schedule. Included will be a charcuterie board with chocolate, cheese, nuts and meats. Tickets are $69 per person, through exploretock.com.

Nashville Hot ‘Chicken’

By John Fladd

[email protected]

2-3 packages frozen plant-based “chick’n”patties (8 to 12 patties)

Vegetable oil for frying

Dredging flour:

4 cups (560 g) all-purpose flour

1 Tablespoon cayenne pepper

1 Tablespoon paprika – I like smoked paprika

1 Tablespoon kosher or coarse sea salt

1 Tablespoon fresh-ground black pepper

Coating liquid:

2 cups (475 g) buttermilk

¼ cup (65 g) hot sauce – I like to use a green jalapeño sauce; it’s not scorchingly hot, but it is delicious

2 eggs

1 Tablespoon kosher or coarse sea salt

Sauce:

½ cup (99 g) hot frying oil

¼ cup (half a stick) butter

2 Tablespoon cayenne pepper

3 Tablespoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon each of garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, black pepper, and taco seasoning

1½ teaspoons kosher or coarse sea salt

Defrost the frozen “chicken” patties in the microwave, about three minutes at high power. Set them aside.

Set up a dredging station, with the dredging flower in a large bowl, and the coating liquid in a cake tin or a pie pan. In two separate bowls, put the half-stick of butter, and the dry ingredients for the sauce.

Pour approximately 2 inches of vegetable oil in a saucepan or an electric fry pan, and heat it to 350°F.

Preparing all the elements for a dish before actually cooking it is called “mise en place.” Restaurant cooks call it “mise.” Setting up all your frying elements ahead of time will make this process relatively simple. Not setting it up will lead to chaos and frustration and running around screaming in a hot oil environment.

When your oil has come almost up to temperature, use a pair of kitchen tongs to drop one of the “chicken” patties in the seasoned flour. Completely coat it, then shake most of the loose flour from it, then give it a quick bath in the hot sauce-buttermilk mixture, then return it to the flour. Use the tongs to completely cover it, and let it sit there, buried in flour, until the oil hits 350°F.

Shake most of the loose flour off the patty with your tongs, then gently drop it into the hot oil. Fry it until both sides are gently browned, three and a half to four minutes. Use a second pair of kitchen tongs to transfer it to brown paper from a grocery bag to drain. While it cooks, prepare the next “chicken” patty, and leave it buried in flour until it is ready to go into the oil in its turn.

Fry all the patties in this way, then remove the frying vessel from heat.

Ladle ½ cup of the used frying oil on top of the half stick of butter, and stir it until it melts. (Please don’t do this in a plastic bowl. Remember the screaming and chaos mentioned above? You will definitely experience that if your hot oil melts a hole in your bowl.) Whisk in the rest of the sauce ingredients. This sauce will want to separate, so make certain you stir it every time you spoon it onto a fried “chicken” patty.

If you’re a garnish kind of person, garnish with some cilantro.

So, is this authentic Nashville Hot Chicken? Not really, but it’s a good approximation of it. You’ll get a spicy and crispy coating on a chewy, not-un-chickenlike armature, covered with a sweet, spicy sauce. If not authentic, it is delicious, and as spicy as you choose to take it. If you were to bring a platter of these to, say, a viewing party for a major sporting event, you could probably expect a certain amount of ribbing at the start, but by the second set of commercials, someone else is guaranteed to try the sauce, then a patty with the sauce. Make sure you’ve set a couple aside for yourself, because the rest will be gone by half time.

Also — not for nothing — these go extremely well with beer.

FNashville Hot ‘Chicken’. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Ashley Place

Culinary & Creative Works Manager, Lavender Fields at Pumpkin Blossom Farm (393 Pumpkin Hill Road, Warner, 456-2443, pumpkinblossomfarm.com)

Ashley Place spends a lot of time thinking about lavender. “I started working for Pumpkin Blossom Farm when it was first coming into fruition,” she said. “We were trying to figure out where [our farm and kitchen] would sit best. Previously I had actually been a bread baker for the Foothills, a restaurant that used to be on Main Street in Warner, so I had a little bit of culinary practice before then. We decided to try a bunch of different approaches, then figure out what stuck and go from there. Which led to the Culinary Camper, a mobile food truck, and out of it we sell lavender-infused lemonade, ice cream, and lavender shortbread cookies, which are one of our most popular items. We do a pineapple lavender Dole whip. We’ve done lavender white chocolate fudge in the past. We do mocktails with different botanical elements and our lavender simple syrup, so we have a lavender jasmine boba bubble tea.”

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I would say cheesecloth. For a lot of our infusions, it works the same way like an herbal tea would, where the lavender itself would have to be strained out after the infusion process. I use quite a bit of cheesecloth or mesh bags.

What would you have for your last meal?

I have a really specific one, actually: pasta with vodka sauce and Sweetie Drop peppers. They’re like these very small red peppers in the shape of a teardrop and they come in these little jars like olives with like a brine liquid in them and they have this sweet and tangy flavor. I’d want some Parmesan and then an arugula, walnut, blue cheese and pear salad.

What’s your favorite local place to eat out at?

The Refinery in Andover [4 Mill Road, Andover, 977-0194, refinerynh.com]. They do a lot of barbecue, burgers, steaks, salads, sandwiches. And then they’ll do, you know, specials like seafood dinners and stuff.

Who is a celebrity that you would like to see eating your food?

That’s such an interesting question. My friend and I think we’d really like to serve something to Noah Kahan. He is a Vermont native. And he does like some indie feel-good type music. It’s music that we like to play in the barn throughout the summer on our playlist, so I feel like it would be really awesome.

What’s your favorite thing on your menu?

My favorite is probably our lavender-infused ice cream. It is special because it’s not just flavoring. The lavender buds are actually steeped in the milk. It’s all natural. The flavor is subtle, but it’s still there. It’s a really good thing for people who are still experimenting and getting into culinary lavender to try.

What is a food trend you’ve seen in the area recently?

We’re seeing more and more different people trying our food, who probably wouldn’t have, in the past. We are coming up on our fifth year, we’ve been seeing some repeat customers. Our customers are very diverse.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I would have to say homemade pasta. I do a ravioli with mushrooms, shallots, ricotta, garlic.

Lavender Lemonade
From the Kitchen of Ashley Place

6 parts water
2 parts lavender simple syrup
1 part fresh lemon juice

Featured photo: Ashley Place. Courtesy photo.

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