Doughnut you know it

NH Doughnut Co. opens in Bedford, expands menu offerings

When Amanda Baril opened the first New Hampshire Doughnut Co. on Route 4 in Chichester in 2019, her concept was simple — an outlet where you create your own doughnuts, choosing from a variety of toppings to customize them not unlike how you might an ice cream sundae.

Fast-forward just three short years, and Baril’s business has since evolved in a big way, introducing two additional brick-and-mortar locations, delving into brewery collaborations, doughnut pop-ups and custom orders for weddings, and even converting a former horse trailer into a miniature food truck. Her newest shop, now open on South River Road in Bedford, has further expanded the menu to offer yeast ring and filled doughnuts, fritters and French crullers.

It’s quite the success story, as Baril’s husband Chad pointed out, when you consider that all of this took place amid a global pandemic. The original New Hampshire Doughnut Co. opened back in late August 2019, some six months before Covid would arrive in the Granite State.

At the time, the business started out with a basic vanilla cake doughnut and a completely customizable list of coatings, toppings and drizzles to choose from. But as Amanda Baril quickly came to find out, most customers would prove to have a hard time choosing their own.

“We ended up putting out a favorites menu, and we found that people were really just choosing from the favorites. So we started putting those out and ready to go and people would just be like, ‘I’ll take this, this and this,’” she said. “They wanted the variety, but they also wanted it ready for them.”

In February 2020, the Barils signed a lease to open a second shop in downtown Concord, in the space formerly occupied by the Capital Deli. It was around that time, Amanda Baril said, when they decided to shift to a weekly doughnut menu that would regularly change with new offerings.

“Every week we would update the menu … and it would be different, and people really loved that,” she said. “We had the key normal favorites but then we’d change up everything else.”

The pandemic’s arrival that March ended up delaying the opening of the Concord shop all the way to December 2020. It’s unique for only operating as a retail storefront — according to Baril, the plan was always to bake everything fresh in Chichester and ship to Concord every morning.

Special doughnut-themed weeks, such as Harry Potter, Disney and others, also entered the mix.

By the summer of 2021, the couple began looking for a new location in the Manchester or Bedford area; they signed a lease on the South River Road property by the end of that year. The buildout of that space was relatively quick, Amanda Baril said, but ongoing supply chain issues with their equipment delayed their opening to mid-September of this year. For similar reasons, they have also since shifted to a monthly doughnut menu.

Today, the Barils now have staff members wholly dedicated to all different aspects of the business, from the newly available crullers in Bedford to gluten-free and dairy-free doughnuts made in Chichester, which has since transitioned into a production-only facility. They recruited Vanessa Robinson as a baker — she formerly worked at Van Otis Chocolates in Manchester.

“I was like, ‘I need to find somebody with experience who knows flavors better than I do,’ and she has been fantastic,” Amanda Baril said. “I am so happy to have her on board because she really adds so much.”

New Hampshire Doughnut Co. even now has its own wedding division, regularly fulfilling catering orders for doughnut walls, doughnut buffets and other gatherings large and small.

Chad Baril added that they’ve begun partnering with local colleges for internship opportunities — a student even designed their current logo — and have worked with several breweries to host doughnut pop-ups. Some, for instance, feature homemade icings made with locally brewed beer — on Friday, Dec. 9, and Friday, Dec. 30, they are expected to return to Lithermans Limited Brewery in Concord.

While there are no plans to open a fourth location, Amanda Baril said she hopes to eventually find a larger available space in Concord where they can bake doughnuts.

“I think when we had it written on paper before we opened up in Chichester, it’s come full circle now, I would say,” Chad Baril said. “The creativeness of Amanda and her staff was kind of the awesome curveball that we got, but now it’s starting to get back into that community. … We want to touch people’s lives and create a kind of legacy, sort of like, ‘Look at what we did.’”

New Hampshire Doughnut Co.
Where: 410 S. River Road, Bedford, 782-8968; 2 Capital Plaza, Concord, 715-5097 (a third location, on Route 4 in Chichester, is now used as a production facility only — no walk-in service)
Hours: Both the Bedford and Concord locations are open Wednesday through Sunday, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., or until doughnuts sell out
More info: Visit nhdoughnutco.com, email [email protected] or find them on Facebook and Instagram @nhdohco

Featured photo: Photo courtesy of NH Doughnut Co.

Coffee, cocktails and community

Café la Reine opens second spot in Manchester’s North End

Nearly a decade after Saint Anselm College alum Alex Horton opened Café la Reine on Elm Street in Manchester, she and her team have expanded to a second location built on quality eats, great coffee and community. Café la Reine North End, which arrived in the space of the former Blake’s Restaurant last month, is more than three times the size of its downtown counterpart, introducing a full-service breakfast and lunch dining experience in addition to craft cocktails.

It was March 2013 when Horton, a Methuen, Mass., native who has lived in the Queen City since her college days, opened the original Café la Reine. At the time, there were not a lot of places around like it, and Horton herself recalls as a student always looking for a place where she could order a cup of coffee and comfortably sit down and do her homework.

Over the years, the spot has added everything from sandwiches and salads to avocado toasts, oatmeal bowls and açaí bowls to its menu, and has become known for its live “Java Jams.”

Even pre-pandemic, Horton said she had been looking for a potential second location. She happens to also live in the North End neighborhood where Blake’s closed its Hooksett Road restaurant in early January 2021, a spot that had been open for nearly four decades.

“When Blake’s closed, I knew that it was going to be kind of a loss for our neighborhood,” she said. “I mean, my husband and I went here on the weekends for breakfast forever, or we’d walk the dogs down [here] and get ice cream from the window. We frequented this place a lot.”

Soon after the property went on the market, Horton — along with her general manager, Dominique Gibson — decided to inquire about potentially taking it over.

“I really wanted a second location that had parking, and I wanted to expand on my menu, because you can only offer so much in a 1,000-square-foot space downtown. It’s so small and our kitchen is so tiny,” Horton said. “And so, I wanted a spot that had a bigger kitchen so that we could possibly make things for both locations out of this kitchen here.”

A few aesthetics, such as the tables and the blue-colored booths, have been kept and may be familiar to those who frequented Blake’s. But Horton and her team still spent the last several months revamping the space, even recruiting Alexis Clark and Nicole Rocha of The Terracotta Room on Elm Street to help install the plants you see along most of the booths.

As you walk inside, you can immediately turn to your right and order coffee or food to go from a counter, or you can be seated at a booth or table. Horton said her team plans to utilize the takeout window for online orders.

With the exception of the açaí and oatmeal bowls, just about everything on the menu downtown is available at Café la Reine North End. But that’s not to say that the new eatery’s menu is a carbon copy of its predecessor. A wide variety of items are exclusively available at this space, from pancakes and Belgian waffles to eggs Benedicts and hash brown bowls.

“We have a bunch of starters, like loaded fries with eggs and hollandaise on top, which is so good,” Horton said. “We have wings, boneless [and] bone-in, and then we have huge breakfast sandwiches … and your classic big breakfast where you get everything. … For lunch, we have tuna melts, avocado BLTs and then some burgers and salads, so it’s a pretty full menu here.”

Café la Reine North End also differs from the downtown location in that there is a full bar, from which you can order mimosas, bloody marys, and what Horton calls Above Average Joes.

“They are our boozy coffee cocktails that we serve in a pint glass. They’re so good,” she said.

Horton said she soon hopes to host either open mic or weekend live music events at her new space. A side room directly to the left of where you walk in has also already been used for larger parties and gatherings, or for those who want to go and work where it’s a little bit quieter.

Reflecting on the last decade, Horton said she never thought she would eventually expand to this degree, but has nonetheless enjoyed the experience and the response from the community.

“I was so young when I opened downtown, and I thought, ‘Oh, I’ll be OK with this,’” she said. “But then, I guess it’s just been the excitement and adventure of opening new businesses, especially with people that you love to work with. I feel like it’s all of our projects because we all had a hand in it, and that kind of reflects in everything from the menu to the way it’s decorated.”

Café la Reine – North End
Where: 53 Hooksett Road, Unit 6, Manchester
Hours: Thursday through Tuesday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed on Wednesdays.
More info: Visit toasttab.com/cafelareinenorthend, find them on Facebook and Instagram @cafelareine.northend or call 782-5367

Featured photo: Photo by Ethos & Able Creative, eacreative.co.

The Weekly Dish 22/11/24

News from the local food scene

Grab a pint: The New Hampshire Brewers Association is once again promoting breweries with the return of its annual NH Pint Days fundraiser. Now through Wednesday, Dec. 7, limited-edition 16-ounce Wili Belcher pint glasses are available for sale at more than 35 participating breweries statewide. The artwork portrayed on this year’s glasses, titled “State of Adventure,” is by local artist Sarah Fenerty of Northwoods Brewing Co., and $1 from each glass benefits the Association. Visit nhbrewers.org or find the Association on Facebook @nhbrewers to view a list of breweries that have the pint glasses, which is sorted by region of the state.

Five courses, five breweries: Join Amphora Restaurant (55 Crystal Ave., Derry) for a special beer pairing dinner on Tuesday, Nov. 29, at 7 p.m. that will showcase options from five different local breweries with each course. Featured beers will be from Throwback Brewery of North Hampton (paired with the pumpkin bisque), Rockingham Brewing Co. of Derry (paired with the strawberry, walnut and feta salad), Daydreaming Brewing Co. of Derry (paired with the pineapple glazed wings), From the Barrel Brewing Co. (paired with your entree of choice — bangers and mash, risotto milanese with smoked brisket and fig glaze or eggplant sto fourno), and Out.Haus Ales of Northwood (paired with bananas Foster). The cost is $100 per person, with a $50 deposit required that will be billed the night of the event. Visit amphoranh.com.

Spirits of history: Get your tickets now for a special Prohibition Repeal Day Old Forester bourbon dinner at Rambling House Food & Gathering (57 Factory St., Suite A, Nashua), scheduled for Monday, Dec. 5, the 89th anniversary of the repeal of Prohibition in the United States. The event will begin with a cocktail half-hour at 5:30 p.m., followed by a five-course bourbon taster and pairing menu at 6 p.m. that will reflect important dates through Old Forester, bourbon and American culinary history. Old Forester, according to the dinner event page at ramblingtale.com, was one of six distillers that was granted government permission to continue production for “medicinal purposes” during Prohibition, and it’s the only one of those six that’s still in the whiskey business today. Roaring Twenties attire is optional, but encouraged, during the event. See the website or call 318-3220 to purchase tickets or reserve your table.

In the kitchen with Lauren Collins-Cline

Lauren Collins-Cline of Bedford is the owner of Slightly Crooked Pies (slightlycrookedpies.com, and on Facebook and Instagram @slightlycrookedpies), offering home-baked pies in a variety of rotating seasonal flavors. The business gets its name from the “crooked kitchen” of Collins-Cline’s 18th-century home, where the oven sits on a sloped floor. Around the holiday season of 2020 and into early 2021 was when Collins-Cline, always an avid pie baker, decided to turn her passion into a business venture. In September she won first place at the New Hampshire Farm Museum’s Great New Hampshire Pie Festival for her Sweater Weather pie, an apple-pear pie with cardamom, cinnamon and vanilla. You can find her regular-sized, miniature and hand-held pies at several local spots, like Angela’s Pasta & Cheese Shop (815 Chestnut St., Manchester), the farm stand at the Educational Farm at Joppa Hill (174 Joppa Hill Road, Bedford) and the artisans’ market at the Cider Mill Gallery (24 Francestown Road, New Boston). Slightly Crooked Pies is also accepting Thanksgiving pre-orders through Sunday, Nov. 20, on its website.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

It’s got to be my silicone pastry mat, because nothing sticks to it, it’s easy to clean up and it goes anywhere.

What would you have for your last meal?

The maple bourbon steak tips from Wicked Good Butchah [in Bedford], with corn on the cob and then I’m always torn about whether I would have macaroni salad or potato salad with it. … Then for dessert, strawberry shortcake.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I have favorites for different things, but the restaurant that is the most special to me is The Corner House in Sandwich. My husband and I went there on our first date. … It’s a really charming place. They’ve got a formal dining room and a tavern area and it’s in a 19th-century house.

What celebrity would you like to see trying one of your pies?

A woman named Dori Sanders. She owns a peach farm in South Carolina, and she’s written a few novels … and the most beautiful cookbook I’ve ever read. I use her pie pastry recipe for my crust, and so I would love for her to let me know if I have done her justice.

What is your favorite pie flavor that you offer?

It’s a toss-up between the maple blueberry pie and the Christmas pie [featuring a combination of apples, pecans, cranberries and seasonal spices]. … The Christmas pie is just instant happiness, comfort and joy when I bite into it, and then the maple blueberry tastes like blueberry pancakes, but in pie form. It’s just such a great balance of the senses.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Gourmet-level tacos. Wherever you go, I feel like you can find them on a menu. … We love food trucks, so wherever there’s a collection of food trucks, we’re drawn to them and tacos are always the perfect things to get.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love the challenge of taking a bunch of random assorted items and making a good dinner out of them. … So either creative leftovers, or a Thanksgiving dinner.

Sweater Weather pie
From the kitchen of Lauren Collins-Cline of Slightly Crooked Pies

2 firm pears (D’Anjou or Bartlett varieties are preferred) and a mix of 3 or 4 other baking apples of a similar firmness
2 Tablespoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Scant ¼ teaspoon cardamom
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 9-inch pie crusts
1 egg yolk
1 Tablespoon + 1 teaspoon cream

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Peel, core and slice the fruit. Toss in a bowl with sugar and spices and let stand while rolling out the top and bottom crusts. Line a pie pan with one crust and fill with the fruit mixture. Add the top crust, crimping or fluting the top and bottom crusts together along the edge of the pan. Mix the yolk and cream and brush over the pie top. Place in the oven. After 15 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake for another 35 to 40 minutes. The pie will begin to bubble juice and the top should be a golden brown. To keep the filling and edges of the pie from shrinking in the cooling process, turn the oven off when done baking and let the pie sit in the oven for another 10 minutes. Crack the door and let it stand for 10 minutes more before removing to a cooling rack. The pie stores well, covered, at room temperature and is best eaten within four to five days.

Featured photo: Lauren Collins-Cline, owner of Slightly Crooked Pies, based in Bedford. Courtesy photo.

Mangia!

Meet the cooking, singing and dancing Calamari Sisters

Celebrities of Brooklyn, New York’s public access circuit, the duo performing as the Calamari Sisters offer an all-singing, all-dancing, all-cooking live show that mixes culinary tips, demonstrations and tastings with traditional musical numbers and comedy shticks.

Delphine and Carmela Calamari brought their nationwide traveling show to New Hampshire for the first time in May with a performance at Manchester’s Rex Theatre. The audience response and word-of-mouth were so positive that the Sisters are back — they’ll take the stage once again at the Rex on Saturday, Nov. 19, with a matinee at 2 p.m. and an evening show at 7:30 p.m.

The Sisters, who have been performing since 2009, are stars of the Brooklyn public access cable production Mangia Italiano and also regularly post short videos to social media. Each 90-minute show at the Rex — billed as a “musical cooking lesson” — will be packed with family stories, Italian folk dancing and plenty of audience participation with the dishes to be cooked on stage.

Pausing between rehearsals for their Christmas-themed shows in New York, New Jersey and Massachusetts next month, Delphine and Carmela recently connected with the Hippo via phone for an interview about their upcoming return to the Queen City.

This past May was your first time coming to New Hampshire. What was the story behind your coming to the Granite State?

Delphine: We’ve always been friends with the great people at the Palace. … The artistic director had seen our show when we were in P-Town [Provincetown, Mass.], where we were, of course, in 2015, ’16 and ’17, during the summer. … So we came [to Manchester] this past time in May and it was such a great experience, because they have that smaller space. Our show is a little bit more intimate than some of the other shows that they do, because it’s just the two of us. … So when they opened the Rex Theatre, it was just perfect for our little show.

Carmela: We’ve been all over the country. I’m not kidding you. We’ve been as far as California, [and] we’ve been to Phoenix, and Wisconsin.

Delphine: I tried to leave her in all of those places, but she always found her way home.

Carmela: But yet, when we came to Manchester, New Hampshire, no one had heard of us.

Delphine: Yeah, and so the word-of-mouth was great. … Everyone was like, ‘You’ve got to come back because I want to bring my friends,’ and so that’s why we came back, just because we wanted to give more people the chance to see us. Because it’s hard to describe the show. It’s not like anything else.

Will audiences recognize the songs and dances?

Delphine: Yes, so some of them are more from the classic songbook of Italian America, so we do “Volare,” we do “Food, Glorious Food,” and we do “Be Our Guest.”

Carmela: We also do a tarantella, which you’ll recognize even if you didn’t know it was called the tarantella. We shake the rafters!

How much audience participation is there during your shows?

Delphine: Oh, quite a bit. So we’re always talking and connecting with the audience, and we do bring them up sometimes.

Carmela: Sometimes we try the food. Sometimes they help us make a dish, if we need an extra pair of hands.

Delphine: It depends on the person and it depends on the dish. … Sometimes they taste, sometimes they help, [or] sometimes we just play games. So it’s very interactive.

What types of dishes do you prepare on stage?

Delphine: We have different ones that we do for different shows, but in this musical show, we do a traditional Italian antipasto and we do a cannoli.

Carmela: We’ve done fried dough on stage, sausage and peppers, [and] we do chicken a la Calamari, which is a secret recipe, and you’re not getting it no matter how much you want it.

Delphine: This one is designed to be more of a pop-up, if you will. … And so, because we are teaching a lesson, we have a chalkboard, some prep tables, aprons, and a good old tambourine, because if you’re going to do a tarantella, you need a tambourine.

Carmela: My favorite is when we do a clambake. Biggest, juiciest clams you’ve ever seen. Oh, so good.

Delphine: Yes, we know New England takes claim on the whole clambake thing. We beg to differ.

What’s your favorite thing about performing these shows?

Delphine: Especially in today’s world, I think we all need more laughter, we need more silliness, and we all need to be able to laugh at ourselves. … And, just being able to be that escape and that outlet to people is my favorite part, because it also just reminds you that things aren’t so bad.

A Musical Cooking Lesson with the Calamari Sisters
When: Saturday, Nov. 19, at 2 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.
Where: The Rex Theatre, 23 Amherst St., Manchester
Cost: Tickets range from $29 to $39, plus fees
Visit: thecalamarisisters.com

Featured photo: Delphine (left) and Carmela Calamari. Courtesy photo.

A feast from your garden

Television chef Mary Ann Esposito presents new cookbook

Chef and University of New Hampshire graduate Mary Ann Esposito isn’t just the host of the longest-running television cooking show in America — she’s also the author of more than a dozen cookbooks, each meant to tie into her series in some way. Ciao Italia: Plant, Harvest, Cook!, her latest book, scheduled for a Nov. 15 release, continues that theme by focusing on the home vegetable garden, with easy-to-follow planting advice and more than 100 recipes.

Following an exclusive book launch event at The Music Hall Lounge in Portsmouth on release day, Esposito will hold signings and Q&A sessions at Water Street Bookstore in Exeter on Thursday, Nov. 17, and at Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord on Friday, Nov. 18. She’s also scheduled to hold a signing at Tuscan Market in Salem on Saturday, Dec. 10 — there, she’ll be accompanied by Tuscan Brands wine director Joseph Comforti for a special wine tasting.

Esposito is the host of the PBS series Ciao Italia with Mary Ann Esposito, which debuted in 1989. Its 30th season — the first to be filmed in front of a live audience, at Tuscan Village’s Scuola Culinaria — recently wrapped up production and is currently airing.

Her 13th book overall, Ciao Italia: Plant, Harvest, Cook! took Esposito about two years to write, dating back to the early months of the pandemic when Ciao Italia had to suspend production.

“I wanted it to be a dual-purpose book,” she said. “It’s not only a cookbook with all of these wonderful vegetables, but it’s also a simple primer gardening book for anybody who wants to start a garden. But you absolutely do not have to have a garden in order to use this book.”

Esposito divides the book into two sections. The first focuses on cool-weather crops of an early spring garden, such as lettuce, peas, radishes and spinach; that’s followed by a section devoted to summer garden vegetables, from tomatoes and eggplant to peppers, zucchini and others that need heat. Recipes incorporating vegetables in all kinds of traditional Italian dishes are also featured.

“The tomato is the king of the garden, so obviously I have lots of tomato recipes … including, of course, eggplant Parmesan with fresh tomatoes,” Esposito said. “There’s a wonderful recipe for my mother’s upside-down stuffed peppers … and then there’s my Nonna Galasso’s simple tomato sauce. … One of the other recipes I really like is the giardiniera, which translates to pickled vegetables. Any vegetable like carrots, green beans and broccoli will work for pickling.” Recipes, she said, cover every category from antipasti, soups and salads to garden vegetables and herbs added as ingredients in meats, fish, pastas, casseroles and even some desserts.

“I have a raspberry thyme tart using fresh thyme from the garden that’s really good,” she said. “There’s also a cake that is made with the leaves of the rose geranium plant, minced and put into the batter. There are whole leaves that line the pan first before you put the batter in, so that when you turn the cake out you’ve got this beautiful-looking cake embedded with those leaves.”

Esposito said she likes to treat each book signing and Q&A session as though she is having a conversation at someone’s kitchen table. During the Nov. 18 event at Gibson’s Bookstore, she said, her husband Guy — who is also Ciao Italia’s head gardener — will join her.

“Everything I know about vegetable gardening, I learned from him, so he’ll be coming along to probably answer some questions that I might not be able to answer,” she said.

Meet Mary Ann Esposito
Mary Ann Esposito presents Ciao Italia: Plant, Harvest, Cook! Visit ciaoitalia.com.

• Thurs., Nov. 17, 7 p.m.: Water Street Bookstore, 125 Water St., Exeter (visit waterstreetbooks.com or call 778-9731)
• Fri., Nov. 18, 6:30 p.m.: Gibson’s Bookstore, 45 S. Main St., Concord (visit gibsonsbookstore.com or call 224-0562)
• Sat., Dec. 10, 11 a.m.: Tuscan Market at Tuscan Village, 9 Via Toscana, Salem (event will also include a wine tasting with Tuscan Market wine director Joe Comforti; visit tuscanbrands.com or call 912-5467)

Three-squash soup with orzo
Courtesy of Mary Ann Esposito; taken from her book Ciao Italia: Plant, Harvest, Cook! (makes 1 ½ quarts)

bowl of squash soup surrounded by varieties of whole squash
Photo by John W. Hession.

1 2-pound spaghetti squash, cut in half, seeded and cut in half again
1 Tablespoon unsalted butter
2 large leeks (white part only), cut in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into ¼-inch to ½-inch moons (about 2 cups)
2 cups large-diced zucchini
2 cups large-diced butternut squash
4 cups tomato juice
1 cup hot water
3½ teaspoons salt, or to taste
¾ cup orzo, ditalini or other small soup pasta
6 to 8 fresh basil leaves, minced

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the spaghetti squash quarters cut-side down in a 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish. Pour in about ¼ inch of water. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until the squash is very soft (about 30 minutes). When it’s cool enough to handle, scoop the pulp from the shells and transfer it to a food processor or blender. Puree the squash (in batches if necessary) until smooth — there should be about 1½ cups of puree. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until ready to use (it can be prepared a day or two ahead if needed). While the squash is baking, melt the butter in a large pot over low heat. Add the leeks, cover and cook for three minutes, stirring a few times. Add the zucchini and butternut squash and stir to evenly mix the vegetables. Cover the pot and cook until the vegetables are cooked through but still retain their shape (about 12 minutes). Stir in the tomato juice, hot water, pureed squash and two teaspoons of the salt. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, stir in the remaining 1½ teaspoons of salt and the orzo, and cook until the orzo is al dente (about 10 minutes). Drain well, then stir the orzo into the soup. Stir in the basil and serve. (Note: spaghetti squash can be cooked in a microwave oven on high power for five to six minutes per pound. Be sure to pierce the rind before microwaving).

Featured photo: Mary Ann Esposito. Photo by John W. Hession..

Stay in the loop!

Get FREE weekly briefs on local food, music,

arts, and more across southern New Hampshire!