Fish (and chips) story

In praise of the New England comfort classic

The Lobster Boat. Courtesy photo.

On the menu of nearly every seafood restaurant and Irish pub in New Hampshire, fish & chips — featuring battered and deep-fried whitefish, usually haddock or cod, with french fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce — is a pair of quintessential New England comfort foods. Local chefs and restaurateurs talk about the way their fish & chips are prepared and how they put their own unique spins on the fried classic, from the type of fish to the batter they use.

Fresh catch

Haddock is far and away the most prevalent fish used for fish & chips in the Granite State. Janet Johnston of The Lobster Boat in Merrimack said not only is it a common whitefish found in the Northern Atlantic, but it’s also a great option due to its leanness and sweet flavor. The Lobster Boat gets fresh fish deliveries six days a week, its haddock already deboned and skinned.

“It holds together when you cook it and comes out real tender and flaky, making it really nice for fish & chips,” she said.

While cod is also an acceptable option, Johnston said its thicker and firmer texture compared to haddock makes it a better fish for grilling than frying.

Eric Griffin of Grill 603 in Milford, which also uses fresh New England haddock for its fish & chips, had been using cod before coming to New Hampshire four years ago. He previously owned and operated a restaurant in the Chesapeake Bay area of Virginia.

“In the South you really can’t get good fresh haddock,” Griffin said. “The natural sweet flavor and flaky texture of the fish, in my opinion, is superior to cod when you cook it just right.”

How the fish is cut up and portioned will depend on where you go. Some restaurants, like Surf in Nashua and Portsmouth, and Hooked in Manchester, serve up one large filet of haddock. Griffin said he likes to prepare it at Grill 603 a little differently.

“We actually cut ours into one- to one-and-a-half-ounce sized pieces, which allows the fish to cook very quickly and evenly,” he said. “A lot of people that come into the restaurant and order it sometimes aren’t prepared for that, but when they take a bite, it’s all over.”

More diverse than the fish itself is the way it’s battered and fried at each eatery in the state. The Lobster Boat, according to Johnston, has used a yellow corn flour-based batter for decades, while at Grill 603 Griffin has his own batter he gets imported from North Carolina.

“The batter we use is super light and flavorful, and very fine, which is why we cut up the fish the way we do when we fry it,” he said. “We also batter each portion to order.”

Michael Lyle, corporate chef of Michael Timothy’s Dining Group, said a tempura batter with gluten-free rice flour and water is used for the fish & chips available at Surf.

In Concord, The Barley House has its own curry beer batter for its fish & chips. Chef Jon Frobese said beer sourced from Concord Craft Brewing is added to the eatery’s tempura batter, as well as some curry powder to enhance its flavor and Smithwick’s Irish ale for added color.

A fishy history

The origin of fish & chips as we know it today can be traced back to mid-19th-century England — the National Federation of Fish Friers recognizes it as “the undisputed national dish of Great Britain” and a “cultural and culinary symbol” of the country, according to its website. Exactly when and where the first plate of fish & chips was ever consumed is where things get, well, fishy. According to The Oxford Companion to Food, an encyclopedia edited by Alan Davidson and published by Oxford University Press, claims of the dish’s invention have been made in both London and Lancashire, some 200 miles to the northwest, around the year 1860, although fried fish and cooked potatoes had both existed separately for a time before. The Wordsworth Dictionary of Culinary & Menu Terms, compiled by Rodney Dale, identifies “chips” as an English colloquial term for french fries.

Pretzel crusted fish & chips from Backyard Brewery & Kitchen. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

From the late 1800s through about World War II, Davidson writes, the number of fish & chips shops steadily grew across England and Ireland by the thousands. Some merchants, he added, attempted to package and sell fish & chips in used newspapers as a way to keep costs down, although this practice was largely phased out by the 1960s for sanitary reasons.

Chipping in

Almost every New Hampshire eatery offering fish & chips will serve you the fish with a side of french fries, and usually a small bowl of coleslaw and tartar sauce for dipping.

The Lobster Boat, Johnston said, uses a soybean oil that’s changed out every day for frying. The coleslaw is also homemade every morning.

In Nashua, The Peddler’s Daughter hand-cuts all its own fries using fresh Idaho potatoes. Chef Jeff DiAntonio said each serving of fish & chips also comes with two jars each of house-made ketchup and lemon tartar sauce.

Just like with its haddock, Surf prepares its fries in a gluten-free-friendly deep fryer, serving its fish & chips with a side of house tartar sauce.

“We make our own mayonnaise, whipping egg yolks with olive oil, and then we fold in some onions, capers and parsley,” Lyle said.

Grill 603 also makes its own coleslaw and tartar sauce, Griffin said.

“We actually use dill relish for our tartar sauce, which gives it a nice tart, zingy flavor,” he said.

Where to get a plate of fish & chips

From house-battered haddock or cod to hand-cut fries and homemade tartar sauce, here are some restaurants, brew pubs and other businesses in southern New Hampshire that offer their own unique takes on fish & chips.

110 Grill (875 Elm St., Manchester, 836-1150; 27 Trafalgar Square, Nashua, 943-7443; 110grill.com) offers fish & chips on its entree menu, featuring North Atlantic cod fried in seasoned flour and served with french fries, tartar sauce and coleslaw.

1750 Taphouse (170 Route 101, Bedford, 488-2573, 1750taphouse.com) offers fried beer-battered haddock with hand-cut fries, coleslaw, tartar sauce and a lemon wedge.

Auburn Tavern (345 Hooksett Road, Auburn, 587-2057, auburntavern.com) offers fresh fried haddock with french fries and coleslaw on its seafood menu.

Backyard Brewery & Kitchen (1211 S. Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-3545, backyardbrewerynh.com) uses pretzel-crusted haddock for its fish & chips, which is served over hand-cut fries with pickle slaw and handmade tartar sauce.

The Barley House Restaurant & Tavern (132 N. Main St., Concord, 228-6363, thebarleyhouse.com) offers fish & chips featuring haddock fried in a curry beer batter and served with french fries, tartar sauce and coleslaw.

The Beach Plum (3 Brickyard Square, Epping, 679-3200; 16 Ocean Blvd., N. Hampton, 964-7451; 2800 Lafayette Road, Portsmouth, 433-3339; thebeachplum.net) offers fried haddock with french fries, coleslaw and a dinner roll that’s available as a smaller basket or a larger dinner size.

Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, 424-0995, buckleysgreatsteaks.com) offers fish & chips on its house specialties menu, with coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Cactus Jack’s Grill & Watering Hole (1182 Union Ave., Laconia, 528-7800, cactusjacksnh.com) offers Jack’s fish & chips on its house specialties menu, featuring fried haddock, fries, fried onion, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Casey Magee’s Irish Pub & Music Hall (8 Temple St., Nashua, 484-7400, caseymagees.com) offers Guinness-battered fried cod for its fish & chips entree, served with house fries, homemade coleslaw, tartar sauce and a lemon wedge.

CJ’s Great West Grill (782 S. Willow St., Manchester, 627-8600, cjsgreatwestgrill.com) offers haddock fried in a tempura batter for its fish & chips, which are served with fries, onion rings, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Clam Haven (94 Rockingham Road, Derry, 434-4679, clamhaven.com) is expected to remain open for the season through Oct. 31. The eatery offers several fried fish plates like haddock, clams, scallops, and lobster tails, served with french fries, onion rings and coleslaw.

Copper Door Restaurant (15 Leavy Dr., Bedford, 488-2677; 41 S. Broadway, Salem, 458-2033; copperdoor.com) offers fish & chips on its lunch menu, featuring haddock with a tempura breading, house fries, coleslaw and remoulade.

Cork N Keg Grill (4 Essex Dr., Raymond, 244-1573, corknkeggrill.com) offers fish & chips, hand-breaded and served with coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Diz’s Cafe (860 Elm St., Manchester, 606-2532, dizscafe.com) offers fish & chips that feature deep fried and breaded Atlantic haddock, served with french fries and house-made tartar sauce.

Downtown Cheers Grille & Bar (17 Depot Road, Concord, 228-0180, cheersnh.com) offers deep fried and lightly breaded haddock on its entree menu, served with french fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

The Farm Bar and Grille (1181 Elm St., Manchester, 641-3276, farmbargrille.com) offers fish & chips that feature more than half a pound of haddock per order, fried and lightly breaded, and served over a bed of waffle fries and house-chopped slaw.

Firefly American Bistro & Bar (22 Concord St., Manchester, 935-9740, fireflynh.com) uses beer-battered local whitefish for its fish & chips, which are served with french fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

The Flying Goose Brew Pub & Grille (40 Andover Road, New London, 526-6899, flyinggoose.com) uses beer-battered haddock filet for its fish & chips, which are served over pub fries with coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Fody’s Great American Tavern (9 Clinton St., Nashua, 577-9015; 187½ Rockingham Road, Derry, 404-6946; fodystavern.com) uses beer-battered cod for its fish & chips, which are served with hand-cut fries and tartar sauce.

The Foundry Restaurant (50 Commercial St., Manchester, 836-1925, foundrynh.com) offers tempura-battered fish & chips with coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Giorgio’s Ristorante & Bar (270 Granite St., Manchester, 232-3323; 707 Milford Road, Merrimack, 883-7333; giorgios.com) offers the Greek fish & chips, which feature beer-battered haddock over Greek fries, topped with arugula, caper and lemon butter.

Goldenrod Restaurant (1681 Candia Road, Manchester, 623-9469, goldenrodrestaurant.com) offers a haddock plate on its entree menu, served with french fries and coleslaw.

Grill 603 (168 Elm St., Milford, 213-6764, grill603.com) uses fresh New England haddock for its fish & chips that is dry breaded Carolina style and served with gourmet fries and coleslaw.

Holy Grail Food & Spirits (64 Main St., Epping, 679-9559, holygrailrestaurantandpub.com) offers golden fried beer-battered haddock loins, served with homemade chips.

Hooked Seafood Restaurant & Ignite Bar & Grille (110/100 Hanover St., Manchester, 644-0064, hookedonignite.com) offers fish & chips that feature deep fried haddock, french fries, tartar sauce and coleslaw.

Jamison’s (472 Route 111, Hampstead, 489-1565, jamisonsrestaurant.com) offers fresh haddock for its fish & chips, which include hand-cut fries, slaw and house tartar sauce.

Johnson’s Seafood & Steak (1334 First New Hampshire Turnpike, Northwood, 942-7300, find them on Facebook @johnsonsnorthwood) offers fish & chips that feature hand-battered haddock filet and homemade tartar sauce.

Lakehouse Tavern (157 Main St., Hopkinton, 746-1800, lakehousetavern.com) offers beer-battered haddock for its fish & chips, with fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

The Lobster Boat Restaurant (453 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, 424-5221; 273 Derry Road, Litchfield, 882-4988; lobsterboatrestaurant.com) offers fish & chips available in small or large sizes on its menu, featuring golden fried haddock with a side of coleslaw.

The Lobster Claw (4 S. Main St., Derry, 437-2720, lobsterclaw2.com) offers a variety of fried seafood dinners, with options like haddock, flounder, clams, scallops and more. Each dinner is served with french fries and coleslaw.

Main Street Grill and Bar (32 Main St., Pittsfield, 435-0005, mainstreetgrillandbar.com) uses beer-battered fried haddock for its fish & chips, which are served with french fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Makris Lobster & Steak House (354 Sheep Davis Road, Concord, 225-7665, eatalobster.com) offers a variety of fried seafood plates in its own homemade batter, with options like haddock, shrimp, scallops, clams and oysters. Each is served with fries and slaw, and there are optional replacement sides like onion rings, Cajun fries and sweet potato fries.

Murphy’s Taproom (494 Elm St., Manchester, 644-3535, murphystaproom.com) uses red ale-battered haddock for its fish & chips, which are served with coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Murphy’s Taproom & Carriage House (393 Route 101, Bedford, 488-5975, murphystaproom.com) offers fish & chips on its entree menu, which feature Samuel Adams-battered haddock, house fries, toasted fennel slaw and tartar sauce.

New England’s Tap House Grille (1292 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, 782-5137, taphousenh.com) uses beer-battered haddock for its fish & chips, which are served with seasoned french fries, coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Newick’s Lobster House (317 Loudon Road, Concord, 225-2424; 431 Dover Point Road, Dover, 742-3205; newicks.com) offers a variety of fried seafood plates, served with either chips or fries, including haddock, scallops, clam strips and coconut shrimp.

The Peddler’s Daughter (48 Main St., Nashua, 821-7535, thepeddlersdaughter.com) offers beer-battered fish & chips, which feature fresh haddock loins cut up in house and fried, then served with house cut fries, homemade lemon tartar sauce and ketchup, and malt vinegar.

The Red Blazer Restaurant and Pub (72 Manchester St., Concord, 224-4101, theredblazer.com) offers fish & chips that feature hand-breaded haddock and are served with french fries, coleslaw and homemade tartar sauce.

Rocco’s Pizza Bar & Grill (297 Derry Road, Hudson, 577-9866, roccospizzanh.com) uses hand-battered haddock for its fish & chips, which are served with french fries and coleslaw.

The Shaskeen Pub and Restaurant (909 Elm St., Manchester, 625-0246, theshaskeenpub.com) uses beer-battered haddock filets for its fish & chips, which are served with shoestring fries, house slaw and tartar sauce. You can also switch out the fries for roasted root vegetables or smashed potatoes.

Shopper’s Pub + Eatery at Indian Head (18 Lake Ave., Manchester, 232-5252, shoppersmht.com) offers fish & chips on its entree menu, which include lightly battered haddock served with fries and slaw.

Stark House Tavern (487 S. Stark Hwy., Weare, 487-6002, starkhousetavern.com) uses beer-battered haddock for its fish & chips, which are served with hand-cut fries and slaw.

Surf Restaurant (207 Main St., Nashua, 595-9293; 99 Bow St., Portsmouth, 334-9855; surfseafood.com) offers fish & chips on its entree menu, featuring haddock filet fried in a crispy tempura batter, and served with coleslaw and fries.

T-Bones Great American Eatery (25 S. River Road, Bedford, 641-6100; 404 S. Main St., Concord, 715-1999; 39 Crystal Ave., Derry, 434-3200; 77 Lowell Road, Hudson, 882-6677; 1182 Union Ave., Laconia, 528-7800; 311 S. Broadway, Salem, 893-3444; t-bones.com) uses crispy haddock for its fish & chips, which are served with coleslaw and tartar sauce.

Tailgate Tavern & Marketplace (28 Portsmouth Ave., Stratham, 580-2294, tailgatetavernnh.com) uses North Atlantic haddock filets for its fish & chips, which are hand-dipped in a house made tempura batter and golden fried, then served with fries and coleslaw.

Tandy’s Top Shelf Pub (1 Eagle Square, Concord, 856-7614, tandyspub.com) offers a fried haddock platter on its entree menu, served with fries and coleslaw.

The Town Cabin Deli & Pub (285 Old Candia Road, Candia, 483-4888, towncabin.com) offers fish & chips on its seafood menu, featuring deep fried and battered haddock filet served with coleslaw and hand-cut fries.

The Tuckaway Tavern & Butchery (58 Route 27, Raymond, 244-2431, thetuckaway.com) offers buttermilk fish & chips with fries, slaw and New England tartar sauce.

Zachary’s Chop House (4 Cobbetts Pond Road, Windham, 890-5555, zacharyschophouse.com) offers lightly fried fish & chips with fresh cod.

Featured photo: Surf. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/15

News from the local food scene

Drive-thru Greek eats: Assumption Greek Orthodox Church (111 Island Pond Road, Manchester) will hold a drive-thru food fest on Saturday, Oct. 24, from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., rain or shine. Now through Oct. 21, orders are being accepted for a variety of fresh Greek eats, including lamb/beef or chicken gyro plates with fries, spinach petas, and several pastries and sweets, like baklava, koulourakia (crisp braided butter cookies), kourambiedes (butter cookies in powdered sugar) and loukoumades (fried dough sprinkled with syrup and cinnamon). Pre-paying online is required (no walk-ins). To place your order, visit foodfest.assumptionnh.org.

Spooky servings: Get your tickets now for a Monster Mash dinner at LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst) on Saturday, Oct. 31, from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m. The Halloween-themed event will feature a plated multi-course dinner, with items like artisan breads and whipped butter, mini bowls of pumpkin bisque, ricotta pumpkin cannelloni in a sage brown butter sauce, herb roasted Statler breast of chicken with pumpkin pilaf, and a meringue ghost tartlet for dessert. There will also be themed cocktails at the bar, a costume contest and dancing. Tickets are $69 per person (event is 21+ only). Visit labellewinerynh.com.

Final outdoor markets: The final day of the Nashua Farmers Market’s summer season is scheduled for Sunday, Oct. 18, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at City Hall Plaza (229 Main St.), while several other outdoor markets in the Granite State are set to conclude not long after. The Henniker Community Market, for instance, will wrap up its season on Thursday, Oct. 29, from 4 to 7 p.m. at the Henniker Community Center (57 Main St.). Then on Saturday, Oct. 31, from 8:30 a.m. to noon the Concord Farmers Market will hold its last date of the season on Capitol Street. The Milford Farmers Market, meanwhile, is scheduled to continue outdoors a bit later into the fall, through Saturday, Nov. 21, from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., at 300 Elm St. in Milford (across the street from the New Hampshire Antique Co-op).

Farewell to The Seedling: Another Granite State eatery has permanently closed its doors due to complications posed by the pandemic. The Seedling Cafe & Catering in Merrimack, which suspended operations back in March, announced in an Oct. 1 Facebook post that it will not be reopening. Owner Karen Theriault had purchased the cafe, which was in Nashua at the time, in late 2016 before moving it to the lobby of the Residences at Daniel Webster in Merrimack in the spring of 2018. “I truly expected to reopen and had been planning to do just that, but sadly it will not happen,” Theriault wrote, going on to thank her customers for their loyalty and to encourage people to support small businesses whenever possible.

In the kitchen with Valerie Roulo

Valerie Roulo of Raymond is the owner of Love & Joy Vegan Sweets (loveandjoyvegansweets.com, and on Facebook and Instagram @lovejoyvegansweets), a homestead baking business she started in August that specializes in unique vegan desserts. Named after Roulo’s two dogs, Marley Love and Willow Joy, the business offers a menu of sweet treats available for ordering online, like multiple flavors of macarons and truffles, oat hemp seed bars, chewy chocolate chunk cookies, cashew-based raspberry lemon entremets, pecan shortbread bars, and vanilla custard Napoleons. An advance notice of 24 to 48 hours is requested for all orders, which are typically available for curbside pickup at a designated spot. You can also find Roulo’s macarons on the menu at Col’s Kitchen (55 S. Main St., Concord).

What is your must-have kitchen item?

It would be my KitchenAid mixer.

What would you have for your last meal?

Vegan nachos, with salsa, jalapenos, black beans and vegan sour cream.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I have two. Col’s Kitchen in Concord is one, and then the other would be The Hungry Caterpillar food truck. I like the “plantarella” sticks, which are basically kind of like mozzarella sticks.

What celebrity would you like to bake something for?

[Celebrity chef] Paul Hollywood, from The Great British Bake Off.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

Probably the macarons, because they are a lot of fun to make and they took me months to master. The shell is an almond-based cookie and then the flavor is whatever you put inside of it, usually any kind of buttercream flavor.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

People [are] becoming more interested in plant-based meals. I also think the grocery stores are starting to offer a lot more plant-based foods.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I like to make a nice hearty vegetable soup and a crusty bread.

Chocolate chickpea brownies
From the kitchen of Valerie Roulo of Love & Joy Vegan Sweets in Raymond

1 can chickpeas
4 tablespoons cocoa powder
⅓ cup flour
3 tablespoons non-dairy milk
3 tablespoons nut butter of choice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
½ cup sugar
½ cup vegan chocolate chips
Nuts (optional)

Drain and rinse beans. Preheat oven to 340 degrees. Grease or line an 8-inch pan. Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor until completely smooth. Spread into pan. Sprinkle chocolate chips (and nuts, if using) on top. Bake on the center rack for 14 minutes, then chill the still underbaked brownies until firm.

Featured Photo: Valerie roulo, Courtesy photo

Home-cooked comfort

Second Brook Bar & Grill now open in Hooksett

For Jeanne Foote and her husband, Tom, who grew up in the North End of Manchester, opening their newest restaurant just over the town line in Hooksett is a homecoming of sorts. In fact, Second Brook Bar & Grill, a casual comfort and homestyle eatery that opened last month, is named after the nearby brook by the railroad tracks that they frequented as high school students.
“Second Brook, for me, was about making lifelong friends and good memories, and that’s what we’re trying to do here,” Foote said. “New friends are coming in, old friends are coming in. … It’s like a class reunion here every other day of the week. It’s so much fun.”
Foote spent more than a decade working at The Puritan Backroom and at Billy’s Sports Bar before going to Durham to open Bella’s Casual Dining in 2012. On Christmas Day last year, just months after Bella’s closed its doors, she said, she was en route picking up Chinese food to her son’s house when she noticed the vacant building space that would become Second Brook Bar & Grill, which was most recently occupied by DC’s Tavern.
“We had a concept in mind,” she said, “but then Covid hit, so we had time to think about what we really wanted, what our name was going to be, and who we were going after.”
Jackson Poulson, who worked at The Country Tavern in Nashua before its permanent closure in May, was brought on as head chef to help construct the eatery’s menu. Many of Second Brook’s tables and booths also come from The Country Tavern, Foote said.
“[Poulson] had some really good recipes, and I had some really good recipes from Bella’s, so we just kind of collaborated,” she said.
The boneless chicken tenders, for instance, are hand-tossed and deep fried, and available as plain, barbecue, Buffalo or garlic Parmesan flavors. The appetizer menu also contains popular staples like shepherd rolls with an au jus demi-glaze, pan seared scallops with a bacon lemon butter sauce, eggplant Napoleon with pesto alfredo and deep fried Buffalo chicken balls.
All soups and chowders are made in house, like the Cajun shrimp chowder and the French onion soup. The menu also features fresh pasta dishes and plated entrees, like Bella’s chicken pot pie with carrots, peas and corn; the baked stuffed Jumbo shrimp with homemade stuffing; and the pulled pork casserole with onion straws, mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese.
The corned beef Reuben is one of the leading sellers on the menu’s sandwich section, according to Foote, but other options include a crispy coconut chicken wrap with house honey mustard Craisins, almonds and goat cheese; a barbecue pulled pork burger with cheddar cheese, coleslaw and pickle chips; a beer battered fish fillet served on a grilled brioche roll with lettuce; and a vegetarian wrap with roasted zucchini, squash, mushrooms and eggplant.
Second Brook’s bar menu has more than a dozen domestic and local craft beers, as well as some white and red wines and all types of specialty cocktails.
Between two and three lunch and dinner specials are also usually available per day, Foote said. Featured desserts are a brownie sundae and a New York-style cheesecake with strawberries, although you might see some specials there too.

Second Brook Bar & Grill
Where
: 1100 Hooksett Road, Unit 111, Hooksett
Hours: Monday, and Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.
More info: Visit secondbrook.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @secondbrookbarandgrill or call 935-7456

Featured photo: Seafood sampler with shrimp, haddock and scallops baked in white wine and butter. Courtesy photo.

Mobile eats on the field

NH Fisher Cats present food truck and fireworks festival

Fisher Cats food truck and fireworks festival. Courtesy photo.

The New Hampshire Fisher Cats haven’t played a single game this year, but their front office has made good use of Northeast Delta Dental Stadium throughout the summer, holding socially distanced high school and college graduation ceremonies, live rock concerts, cornhole tournaments and a fashion show. On Saturday, Oct. 10, they’ll add a food truck festival to the mix, featuring eats from several local and regional trucks, followed by an Atlas Fireworks show in the evening.

“It’s from 1 to 6 p.m., and then the fireworks are at 6:30 p.m., [but] you don’t have to stay the whole time,” Stephanie Fournier, director of hospitality and special events for the Fisher Cats, said. “We’re actually going to give people wristbands when they come in, so if you want to come for lunch, leave and then come back for the fireworks, you can.”

The festival will feature a combination of returning trucks from previous years, like Empanada Dada, a Lowell, Mass.-based Cuban food truck serving fresh beef and chicken empanadas, and a few newcomers to the food truck scene. The Gyro Spot on Elm Street in Manchester, for example, announced the launch of a food truck offering its fresh gyros back in July. They’ll be there, as will Ben & Jerry’s, which also recently introduced a truck.

Other participating vendors include Dudley’s Concessions, offering chicken tenders, fries, burgers and similar comfort options, and the Jackson Effie Coffee Cabin, a Massachusetts-based purveyor of small-batch coffees and espresso drinks.

Usually a two-day event, the team’s third annual festival had originally been scheduled for August. Fournier said seating will be available in some of the stadium seats, as well as at designated socially distanced sitting areas in the outfield using chalked 10×10 squares. People are encouraged to bring blankets and pillows, but no outside chairs are allowed. Masks and face-coverings are also required at the entry gate.

Third annual Fisher Cats Food Truck and Fireworks festival
When
: Saturday, Oct. 10; food trucks will be serving on the field from 1 to 6 p.m.; fireworks show begins at 6:30 p.m.
Where: Northeast Delta Dental Stadium, 1 Line Drive, Manchester
Cost: $10 general admission (free for children ages 3 and under); food and drinks are priced per item
Visit: nhfishercats.com

Participating food trucks
Ben & Jerry’s
(benjerry.com)
Dudley’s Concessions (find them on Facebook)
Dudley’s Fried Dough (find them on Facebook)
Empanada Dada (empanadadada.com)
The Gyro Spot (thegyrospot.com)
Jackson Effie Coffee Cabin (coffeecabinma.com)

Featured photo: Fisher Cats food truck and fireworks festival. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/08

News from the local food scene

Virtual sweetness: The Toadstool Bookshops of Nashua, Peterborough and Keene will hold a virtual author event via Zoom on Saturday, Oct. 10, at 11 a.m. featuring Erin Renouf Mylroie, who will present her new cookbook 101 Greatest Cookies on the Planet. She’ll also conduct a baking demonstration using one of the recipes from her book, which features ideas for all types of cookies for every season. The recipe she’ll go over will be on how to make maple shortbread cookies. Visit toadbooks.com/event/101greatestcookies or visit one of the three shops to purchase the book.

Food trucks at Canobie: Canobie Lake Park (85 N. Policy St., Salem) will host its final food truck festival weekend of the season on Saturday, Oct. 10, and Sunday, Oct. 11, when several local food trucks will be set up inside the park from noon to 3 p.m. each day. Both days will feature Massachusetts-based food trucks Trolley Dogs, North East of the Border and The Chubby Chickpea. On Saturday, Prime Time Grilled Cheese, a Manchester food truck specializing in artisan grilled cheeses, will be there, while the Walking Gourmet food truck, based in Windham, will be at the park on Sunday. Park admission with advance registration is required ($39 for adults, $29 for seniors and attendees under 48 inches tall, and free for kids ages 3 and under). Visit canobie.com.

Lamb shanks to go: There’s still time to order your lamb shank dinner to go at St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester). Dinners of lamb shanks, rice and green beans will be available for pickup at the church on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m. The cost is $20 per person and orders must be placed by Oct. 11 by calling the church office. The church had canceled its annual Glendi food festival earlier this year, usually held in mid-September, but has been holding smaller drive-thru events featuring Greek eats to promote social distancing. Visit stgeorgeglendi.com or call 622-9113.

Halloween at the market: Costumes are encouraged during the Bedford Farmers Market’s final day of the season, a Halloween themed market, on Tuesday, Oct. 13, from 3 to 6 p.m. in the parking lot of the former Harvest Market (209 Route 101, Bedford). The market will feature a variety of specialty treat tables throughout the afternoon. Visit bedfordfarmersmarketnh.org.

In the kitchen with Dave Mielke

Dave Mielke of Amherst and his father Harold opened Smokehaus Barbecue (278 Route 101, Amherst, 249-5734, smokehausbbq.com) together in May 2018. The duo joined forces late the year before, completely rebuilding and redesigning the inside of the former Burger Mill restaurant on Route 101 themselves to give it its rustic look. Smokehaus is open six days a week for lunch and dinner, offering a menu of low-and-slow smoked meats available as sandwich or dinner plate options, from beef brisket and baby back ribs to pulled pork and pulled chicken, as well as fresh sides like collard greens, baked beans and coleslaw, and all types of house-made dry rubs and sauces. The eatery also carries regular offerings from several local craft breweries.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

An immersion blender. We make a lot of sauce with it. We probably make around 25 gallons of barbecue sauce a week, so it gets used quite often.

What would you have for your last meal?

My last meal would be schnitzel and German potato salad. My mom makes that for me every year for my birthday.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Papa Joe’s Humble Kitchen [in Milford]. Those guys are great. In my opinion, they’ve got the best burgers in the entire state.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at your restaurant?

Adam Sandler. If he was in town, I would be absolutely happy with my life at that point. He seems like a down-to-earth guy, plus he’s local.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

That would be the fatty brisket. We’re one of the few barbecue places that has fatty and lean brisket. You can get it as a sandwich or a plate. My two sides of choice would be the collard greens, which are my mother-in-law’s recipe, and the coleslaw.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I really see sustainability itself as a trend. A lot of places opening up are utilizing local farms as much as they can. People are really starting to see how important it is to help our local businesses thrive.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I make a really excellent pho. My son loves it with Vietnamese meatballs.

Sweet bourbon barbecue sauce
From the kitchen of Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst (quantities are for large batches; cut measurements down in half for smaller batches)

8 cans Murphy’s stout
3 cups bourbon
16 cups ketchup
½ cup onion powder
½ cup garlic powder
½ cup red pepper flakes
4 cups brown sugar
1 cup molasses

Combine all ingredients in a large pot. While stirring, bring to a boil until all alcohol is cooked out (roughly 45 minutes). Let cool and enjoy.

Featured Photo: Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst, with his dad, Harold. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Tastes of home

Copper Kettle To Go opens in Wilton

Chris and Megan Gordon really want you to feel at home inside their new Wilton cafe — they’ve even added their own kitchen table to the main dining space. But Copper Kettle To Go in Wilton, which quietly opened its doors on Sept. 17, is more than just a cafe. It’s also a grocery shop offering take-and-bake meals and a downstairs taphouse featuring a rotation of local brews.

Even though much of their preparation for the new cafe has taken place amid the pandemic, Chris Gordon said he and his wife, who previously owned the Copper Kettle Bakery in Brookline, have taken it in stride. After all, their mission from the beginning was to bring families back together around the dinner table at home with their offerings, which include pastas and sauces, fresh baked goods, spinach pie and other comfort meals.

“We wanted to bring something to the community here that we knew we were missing,” he said. “It’s difficult to find fresh vegetables that are already prepared and food that’s cooked in heartier meals, or just basic things like a nice homemade spaghetti sauce. … I think that one of the things with Covid that’s actually been almost a positive thing for us was that it taught people that our business model can exist and that it can be strong.”

If you’re visiting the space, which is directly across from the Wilton Town Hall Theatre on Main Street, just to shop, you don’t have to leave the upstairs level of the cafe. There are several designated areas across the space, including for raw meats, fresh produce, and seasonings and spices. A refrigerated case is stocked with prepared dinners in 8×8 or 13×9-sized pans (including comfort items like macaroni and cheese and chicken pot pie), plus dairy products like butter and cream and a small selection of canned beers. Across the room, a pantry section features various nonperishables like boxed pastas and rice.

“The floor plan was designed in a free-flowing path, with signs above that categorize everything, sort of similar to a grocery store,” Gordon said.

But if you’re sitting down to enjoy a meal, there’s space for that too. Gordon said a few lunch and dinner menu items are available for diners of either the upstairs cafe or downstairs taphouse. They’ll likely change all the time, with a few constant offerings, like the Bennington Railrolls, named after the Milford-Bennington Railroad behind the building.

“They are steak and cheese egg rolls served with a garlic aioli, and they’ve been our leading seller,” he said. “Nearly every customer ordered them when they came in the first week.”

Other recent items have included loaded baked potato soup; shepherd’s pie; a grilled vegetable sandwich on a sub roll, served with summer squash, zucchini, peppers, onions and mayonnaise; a pulled pork sandwich on a sesame seed bun with barbecue sauce from Tim’s Drunken Sauces & Rubs; a BLT with hand-cut smoky bacon, lettuce and tomato, served on rye or white bread; and a pot belly burrito with cilantro lime rice, wrapped and smothered in enchilada sauce with cheese and house espinaca on top.

“We’ll roll something out all the time that’s new, fresh and exciting,” Gordon said. “We’re big-time foodies, and we love nothing more than to bring something new in. So you can expect the menu to change quite frequently.”

Visitors can also venture downstairs to the taphouse, which includes additional seating on wooden bar tables Gordon built himself. Eight taplines, many representing local breweries like Henniker Brewing Co., Laughing Crow Beer in Amherst, 603 Brewery in Londonderry, Concord Craft Brewing Co. and the Contoocook Cider Co., are expected to rotate periodically.

“We’ll definitely keep the juicier IPAs in here, and then maybe bring out some porters or stouts in the winter months and some more lighter stuff as we get warmer again, to really match the seasons,” Gordon said. “Just like our food menu, it will be a really free-flowing kind of thing.”

A door from the taphouse leads outside to a deck overlooking the Souhegan River. Gordon said both the taphouse and the deck are also available to rent for private events or functions.

Copper Kettle To Go
Where
: 39 Main St., Wilton
Hours: Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Visit: copperkettletogo.com

Featured photo: Loaded baked potato soup. Photo courtesy of Copper Kettle To Go.

Safely served

Drive-thru and to-go food festivals across New Hampshire

Despite the absence of traditional food festivals and fairs this year, organizers are reimagining events as drive-thru or to-go only in an effort to promote social distancing. Several of them will be taking place across southern New Hampshire over the next couple of weeks.

Though the Deerfield Fair was canceled back in June, there will be fair food available on the days it would have taken place. The Taste of the Fair, a pre-buy ticket only event, will be held on Friday, Oct. 2, Saturday, Oct. 3, and Sunday, Oct. 4.

According to Debora Wyman of the Deerfield Fair Association, attendees must reserve a blocked time on the hour in advance (the ticket page can be accessed through the fair’s website, deerfieldfair.com) and show up at the fairgrounds 15 minutes before. Times are between 11 a.m. and 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and 11 a.m. and 6 p.m. on Sunday. The cost of admission is $5 per person and a maximum of 200 tickets per time block per day are being sold.

When you arrive at the fairgrounds, there will be signage and event staff directing you where to drive through and park. Several fair vendors selling items like fried dough, fried Oreos, cotton candy, fried pickles, pizza, french fries, sausages, caramel and candy apples, pretzels, and corn dogs will be set up along a designated section of the fairgrounds.

Masks are required and electronic payments are encouraged, as there will not be an ATM onsite. To prevent congregating, there will be no seating on the fairgrounds. Each group, Wyman said, has 45 minutes to purchase their food before leaving the fairgrounds to allow the next group to come in. All surfaces will be sanitized during the 15 minutes in between each allotted time block.

Dan Keough of Dan’s Fried Dough, a featured vendor at the Deerfield Fair for 45 years, said he approached the association with the idea for the event after experiencing success at similar festivals in Vermont and Massachusetts over the last few months.

“We’ve been doing the best we can to get a variety of food vendors,” he said.

Also happening this weekend, St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church in Nashua will host a two-day drive-thru event on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., offering a menu of homemade Greek items usually enjoyed during its annual festival in the spring, like baklava, spanakopita and stuffed grape leaves.

According to event volunteer Joyce Powell, the menu for this event has expanded to include spit-roasted lamb and pastichio (Greek lasagna), two options that weren’t available from the first drive-thru festival. Dinners are available for purchase, which come with Greek-style rice and green beans, and dessert options have been expanded to include koulourakia, or Greek butter cookies.

“We’ve also added a cookbook of recipes made by some of the women of the church, and some face masks that were handmade in Greece,” Powell said.

Advance ordering online is encouraged, but call-aheads will also be accepted on each day.

In Concord, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church is hosting its next Greek meal to go next weekend. Orders must be placed by Oct. 7, with pickups at the church on Sunday, Oct. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. The meal will include a half Greek lemon-roasted chicken with rice pilaf, a salad and a dinner roll, for $15 per person. The church will also offer similar meals over the next several months, including on Nov. 8 (stuffed peppers), Dec. 13 (dolmathes, or stuffed grape leaves), Jan. 10 (pork souvlaki) and Feb. 7 (Greek meatballs).

Glendi, a long-running three-day Greek food festival in Manchester, was also canceled earlier this year, but St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral members and volunteers are holding smaller food events. Following a “Gyro Day” drive-thru pickup event that was presented on Sept. 26, the church will hold a lamb shank dinner to go on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m.

Orders must be placed by Oct. 11 by calling the church office — the dinner will include lamb shanks, rice and green beans for $20.

Upcoming drive-thru and to-go food festivals
The Deerfield Fair will host the Taste of the Fair on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday, Oct. 4, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., on the Deerfield Fairgrounds (34 Stage Road). Advance tickets online are required — visit deerfieldfair.com to pick a designated time slot. Only 200 tickets will be sold per hour, per day, and masks are required.
Join St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) for its next pop-up drive-thru food festival on Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Pre-ordering in advance is required — items include lamb, pastichio, dolmathes, Greek meatballs and spanakopita, plus pastries and sweets like baklava and koulourakia. Visit nashuagreekfestival.com.
Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) is offering its next Greek dinner to-go on Sunday, Oct. 11, from noon to 1 p.m. (order by Oct. 7). All meals include a half Greek lemon-roasted chicken with rice pilaf, a salad and a dinner roll, for $15. Visit holytrinitynh.org.
St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester) will serve a drive-thru lamb shank dinner on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m. (order by Oct. 11). Meals include lamb shank, rice and green beans, for $20. Visit stgeorgeglendi.com.

Featured Photo: Greek Food Festival in Nashua. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/01

News from the local food scene

Indian inspired: Chef Keith Sarasin of The Farmer’s Dinner, a series of farm-to-table dinners at New Hampshire farms, will host a live cooking class via Zoom on Sunday, Oct. 4, from 5 to 6 p.m. Participants will also learn the basics of Indian food during the class, as Sarasin, who learned to cook under an Indian chef for three years, walks through an easy recipe and talks about his own experiences. The cost is $29.99 per person and all virtual attendees will be emailed an ingredient list and video link in advance of the class. Visit thefarmersdinner.com.

Smoked to perfection: On Sept. 11, Michael “Messy Mike” Massiglia of the Derry-based Messy Mike’s Barbecue & Catering Co. launched a new 30-foot mobile food trailer that you can now find every Friday through Sunday in the parking lot of Rockingham Acres Greenhouse (161 Rockingham Road, Derry), from noon until he sells out. The menu includes various meats sold by the pound, sandwiches, sides and other specialty barbecue favorites. Massiglia has been barbecuing full-time since 2014, catering all kinds of events across New England like birthday parties, cookouts, weddings and corporate gatherings, always offering a menu heavy on smoked meats and fresh sides. He also makes his own bottled hot and regular barbecue sauces, which are available for sale online and on some local store shelves. Visit messymikesbarbecue.com or follow him on Facebook @messymikesbbq.

Cookie tour canceled: The Country Inns in the White Mountains has cancelled its 24th annual Inn to Inn Cookie and Candy Tour, which had been scheduled for Dec. 12 and Dec. 13, according to a press release. “Out of an abundance of caution for the safety of guests and the association’s innkeepers and staff, it became clear that the event might attract a crowd that would exceed safety limits determined by the state,” the release read. The tour, which originated as a holiday luncheon, has grown into one of the region’s largest holiday events and raised thousands of dollars for local nonprofits over the years. Dates for the event to return next year have already been set, for Dec. 11 and Dec. 12, 2021, according to the release. Visit countryinnsinthewhitemountains.com.

Granite State Distilling introduced: Sazerac of New Hampshire, a Londonderry bottling facility of distilled spirits, has changed its name to Granite State Distilling, according to a recent press release. The name change also comes with a new logo that was recently unveiled, featuring a sketch of an Appalachian mountaintop inside the shape of a circle, with two outlines of the state of New Hampshire on either side. The new sign was installed on the premises over the summer, according to the release, and all bottled products are expected to reflect the name change in the near future. One of the oldest family-owned private distillers, Sazerac has operations in nearly a dozen states, as well as global operations. Visit sazerac.com.

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