Tasting normalcy

A look back at the local food scene in 2021, plus trends and predictions for 2022

Local restaurateurs continued to feel the lingering effects of the pandemic throughout what was a very up-and-down year for the hospitality industry in 2021.

“This year certainly wasn’t quite as bad as 2020, but I think it was challenging in somewhat different ways,” said Mike Somers, president of the New Hampshire Lodging & Restaurant Association. “At the start of the year, consumer confidence was at an all-time low, and businesses were really struggling to keep their numbers up. … Over the course of the summer months, it was extremely busy. Then obviously it tapered off very quickly once we got past Columbus Day, or thereabouts. … Clearly, we’re going to be having these ups and downs as we go forward.”

New Hampshire-specific results from an operator survey conducted by the National Restaurant Association in mid-September showed that 44 percent of local business owners believe it will take at least another year before the industry normalizes. Profitability is down and food costs are up, with 93 percent of those surveyed saying they’re paying more than ever for product and 85 percent reporting their labor costs have increased. The lack of adequate staffing also remains a major problem — 91 percent of business owners reported being understaffed.

“Back in the spring, we really thought we’d be in a whole different place by now. That hasn’t come to pass,” Somers said. “It really remains to be seen what the next three, four, five months looks like, and I think we’re going to start to see business owners make some key decisions.”

With 2022 on our doorstep and amid concerns about the omicron Covid-19 variant, here’s a look back on how the previous year unfolded and the current obstacles the industry is facing.

Highs and lows

New Hampshire began the year still under a statewide mask mandate for all indoor and outdoor public spaces, including restaurants. That emergency order would expire in mid-April following a sharp decline in Covid-19 cases, thanks to the rollout of vaccines throughout the early spring.

By early May, individual guidelines and restrictions at restaurants, in place since the start of the pandemic, transitioned into what Gov. Chris Sununu called “universal best practices,” consolidating guidelines for all business sectors across the Granite State. The state of emergency came to an end on June 11 as cases continued to drop.

“When you talk about 2021, I mean, there were just amazing highs and lows throughout the year,” said Tom Boucher, CEO of Great New Hampshire Restaurants, the Bedford-based group that includes each T-Bones, Cactus Jack’s and Copper Door location in the Granite State. “Most of our stores were up through the summer, over 2019 sales. … As soon as the fall hit, though, we did see revenues drop a little bit. Not a lot, but it was noticeable.”

As was the case in 2020, rented tents were set up in the parking lot of each restaurant to accommodate more outdoor dining opportunities. For a brief period from about mid-July to mid-September each location was also closed on Mondays as a way to give its staff a break.

Takeout is still not available from 5 to 8 p.m. on Friday or Saturday evenings, a move that has been in place since late March to allow each eatery to prioritize in-house dining. But Boucher said that there have been talks to end this temporary suspension at T-Bones and Cactus Jack’s.

Firefly American Bistro & Bar has similarly continued to experience a greater interest in outdoor dining, according to manager Rachael Jones. In addition to putting up tents, the restaurant now keeps its outdoor patio open year-round with propane heaters in the winter months.

“We’ve had the patio maybe eight years or so, but it was always something that was strictly seasonal,” Jones said. “There just wasn’t a call for it once it got cold, but now people are happy to bundle up and have a cocktail outside. It’s just become something that we do.”

At KC’s Rib Shack, owner and co-founder Kevin Cornish made several operational changes, the most significant of them being that he’s now permanently closed for lunch on weekdays. As of about a month ago, he’s also now open an hour later each evening.

“For 20 years I kind of considered whether or not lunch was worth it for us,” he said. “We would do a good lunch, no question about that. But I think closing for lunch has helped us immensely in a lot of different areas as far as keeping the quality of our food up.”

Cornish introduced KC’s Boneyard late in the spring, a new private function and event room housed in the former Souper Melt building directly in front of the Rib Shack.

In mid-March, Tim Baines of Mint Bistro and Bob Scribner of The Wild Rover Pub joined forces to open Elm House of Pizza, a neighborhood pizzeria in the former Theo’s space on Elm Street. It was also a big year for LaBelle Winery, which introduced a new restaurant concept, a retail market, performances and event spaces and a nine-hole golf course across a 45-acre property in Derry. Each of those properties opened in phases over the course of the spring and summer.

The struggle to staff

As restaurants have continued to recover, finding and retaining qualified employees to meet the growing demand became a defining issue in 2021, and it will carry over into 2022 for many.

The Flight Center opened a second location in Manchester in late June and has only recently become able to operate for lunch during the week. Its sister restaurant, the 1750 Taphouse in Bedford, as well as The Flight Center’s downtown Nashua spot, have also been only open for limited hours, managing partner Seth Simonian said.

The Flight Center opened a second location in south Manchester in late June 2021. Courtesy photo.

“As 2020 came to an end and then going into 2021, we saw a pretty significant decline in applicant flow, while business didn’t really change,” Simonian said. “You have people who expect you to be open for lunch and dinner, and to be open seven days a week … Downtown Nashua has been our hardest to staff by far.”

None of LaBelle Winery’s three properties in Amherst, Derry and Portsmouth is operating full-time for similar reasons. Americus Restaurant, which opened in mid-May, currently offers dinner five nights a week and brunch and lunch on the weekends, but owner Amy LaBelle said the goal was to also have it be open during the week.

“Given the fact that there’s a golf course and many other daytime activities here on the property, it’s just staggering that we haven’t been able to get that accomplished. We just don’t have the staff,” LaBelle said. “The kitchen is definitely the hardest-hit, but even if I had a fully staffed kitchen I still couldn’t open full-time because I don’t have enough servers.”

Great New Hampshire Restaurants, Boucher said, remains slightly below its normal number of about 800 employees across the company’s 10 locations.

“Staffing has definitely improved for us, but I think the labor shortage is going to continue to be an issue in 2022,” he said. “It’s not exclusive to the restaurant industry either, that’s for sure.”

Beginning in 2022, in addition to Thanksgiving and Christmas, the company will be closing its restaurants on five additional holidays — President’s Day, Memorial Day, the Fourth of July, Labor Day and Columbus Day — and offering paid time off to its managers for those days.

“I think it’s going to be a really disruptive decision that we’re making to put us in a competitive place to attract employees and managers,” Boucher said. “It’s also a big win for our staff because they’ll be able to make plans to do something with their families or friends.”

Paying the price

Increasing food costs and ongoing supply chain issues have forced local restaurateurs to make critical choices about what to buy, problems they say aren’t likely to go away anytime soon.

“Inflation has really been the challenge,” Somers said. “It’s not about being able to get product. You could get it. It’s just whether or not you could afford to actually put it on the menu.”

LaBelle said she has especially felt these impacts since right around when Americus opened.

“When we are writing a menu now, we look at the prices first and we might say, OK, we can’t put this rib-eye on the menu right now. I’m not going to charge $70 for it,” she said. “So we’ve definitely tailored our menu to be able to reflect really good-quality food, but also things that we can get to people at a reasonable price without compromising our quality.”

Not being able to get the products right away, she added, only makes it more difficult.

“I used to be able to place a food order and get it the next day from our major food suppliers,” she said. “Now there’s a twice-a-week delivery schedule, because they don’t have people to deliver. So if I need something or if we run out of something, I can’t get that quick delivery that I used to be able to get. I have to wait until my designated delivery day. … So we’re not used to that, and it makes the chefs have to be super careful about what they’re ordering.”

At Firefly, Jones said she has already heard from purveyors warning that certain items may be hard to come by for anywhere from the next three to 12 months.

“You’re just so used to having everything at your fingertips,” she said, “but this year, it was just like all the rules go out the window. People have been very understanding, so that’s been great.”

Baines said he has experienced higher costs as well, particularly within the last six months or so.

“We did have to shrink the Mint [Bistro] menu a little bit and were reluctant to do so. Some of it is due to availability and some of it was just that the cost to put it on a plate just didn’t feel right to charge what we would have to to make it work,” he said. “I think you’ve seen that industry-wide. You’ve seen hours shrink and you’ve seen menu selections shrink.”

A taste of events to come

Here are a few foodie happenings to look forward to as we begin 2022. Be sure to visit the event’s website or contact the venue directly for the most up-to-date information.

• The Taste of Bedford is due to return on Tuesday, Jan. 11, from 6 to 8 p.m. at Bedford High School (47B Nashua Road), according to the event’s website. Bedford-area eateries will congregate for a night of food sampling, with proceeds benefiting the school’s Distributive Education Clubs of America (DECA) chapter, one of the largest in the state. Tickets are $10 per person, or $30 per family of four and $40 per family of five. Visit tasteofbedford.org.

• LaBelle Lights at LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111) continues with a special Fire and Ice Weekend on Friday, Jan. 14, and Saturday, Jan. 15, featuring live performances like fire dancers and ice stilt walkers, in addition to bonfires, themed food and cocktail specials and more. Tickets are $15 to LaBelle Lights, which is being held from 4:30 to 9 p.m. on select days now through Feb. 26. Valentine’s Day and Mardi Gras celebrations are also planned before LaBelle Lights closes for the season. Visit labellewinery.com/lights to view the full calendar schedule.

• New Hampshire Wine Week is right around the corner, and tickets are available now to the 18th annual Easterseals Winter Wine Spectacular on Thursday, Jan. 27, from 6 to 9 p.m. at the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown (700 Elm St.). This will be the first in-person Winter Wine Spectacular since January 2020 — the pandemic forced its transition into a series of virtual tastings last year. Tickets are $65 for access to the grand tasting, or $135 for access to the Bellman Cellar VIP tasting room (limited availability), with proceeds benefiting Easterseals New Hampshire. For the most up-to-date details on New Hampshire Wine Week, which also includes bottle signings and wine tastings across the state, visit nhwineweek.com.

A cautious optimism

Despite a looming uncertainty about the future, most of the local restaurateurs we spoke with say they’re optimistic overall heading into 2022 — just as long as there isn’t another shutdown.

“We’re seeing the dining public out and about, and almost every restaurant I see is filling seats,” Baines said. “However people are feeling about it, they’re going out again.”

Nearly a year after opening Elm House of Pizza, Baines and Scribner are introducing another new concept in the Queen City. City Hall Pub, he said, is due to open in the former Cheddar & Rye space on the corner of Hanover and Elm streets by the third week of January.

“We have The Wild Rover, Mint Bistro, Elm House of Pizza and then City Hall Pub all under Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group,” he said. “We’re going to offer a loyalty program within those four, so you can generate points and use them throughout each of the locations.”

LaBelle Winery, meanwhile, is due to finish construction on a new sparkling wine production facility and tasting room in Derry by late May 2022. LaBelle said plans are already underway to also bring back the highly successful LaBelle Lights holiday celebration next winter.

“We thought we would have 20,000 visitors throughout the three months of LaBelle Lights, but as it turns out, we’ve already had that many in the first month,” she said.

Boucher also said he’s noticed customers are coming back, making him hopeful for the future.

“Restaurants are obviously in the business to serve food, but they’re much more than that. They’re a gathering place,” he said. “It’s not just the food; it’s the warm hospitality that defines restaurants, and I think people really figured that out [by] staying at home through the pandemic. … I think restaurants will always thrive because eating at home just isn’t the same.”

A Year in the Kitchen: 2021 edition

The Hippo’s In the Kitchen Q&A series continued throughout 2021, with a different New Hampshire restaurant chef, baker or homestead business owner profiled each week.

Regular readers know that we like to turn to the experts for their thoughts on the biggest food trends currently sweeping the Granite State, and as the industry continues to experience the effects of the pandemic, the answers we received seemed to be all over the map. Farm-to-table dining, comfort items and vegan menus, and the ways we get our food beyond visiting a traditional brick-and-mortar restaurant — think ghost kitchens, food trucks or third-party delivery apps — were some of the most common threads.

“I think restaurateurs in New Hampshire have done such an amazing job pivoting their operations over the last year and a half, regardless of what their business model is,” Lisa Kingsbury of Lush Confections in Derry told the Hippo in July. “I think they are more open to different possibilities than they would have otherwise been.”

It’s always fun to see what people come up with as an answer to another question we ask, “What celebrity would you like to see eating at your restaurant?” or “What celebrity would you like to have a meal with?” For the second consecutive year, the No. 1 answer was chef Gordon Ramsay of, among many other shows, Hell’s Kitchen. Actor and New Hampshire native Adam Sandler once again received a fair number of mentions — and, even though he’s no longer with us, the late chef and author Anthony Bourdain also continued to be a common answer.

“In culinary school, [Bourdain] was who we looked up to and somebody we aspired to be,” Jenn Martins of Brickoven Catering in Hudson told the Hippo in August.

We also like to give our interviewees the opportunity to give a shout out to their favorite local eateries. The answers to this question could not have been more diverse — almost everyone called a different restaurant their favorite. But there were a few recurring names, including MT’s Local Kitchen & Wine Bar in Nashua, The Black Trumpet Bistro in Portsmouth, the East Derry Tavern, and several of the La Carreta Mexican Restaurant locations.

Featured photo: Americus Restaurant opened in mid-May 2021 in Derry. Photo courtesy of LaBelle Winery.

Arts alive! (really)

Theater and art groups rally in 2021

Well, it was better than 2020 — that’s the sentiment that many in the art community had about 2021, as they continued to try to evolve among the ebbs and flows of the pandemic.

“All arts organizations have faced tremendous challenges in bringing live performances and art experiences to the public,” Alan Chong, Director of the Currier Museum of Art in Manchester, said. “We have all learned to adapt and be flexible.”

Here’s how some artistic groups fared in 2021, and a look at what they think 2022 might bring.

Art

For some organizations, 2021 meant bringing back some sorely missed in-person events. The League of New Hampshire Craftsmen, for example, was able to hold its annual fair in Sunapee, with a few modifications that prioritized social distancing.

“We were really delighted that the fair was a total success and people felt comfortable coming,” said Miriam Carter, executive director of the League.

Carter said the artists did very well, with an increase in sales from $2.35 million in 2019 — the last time the fair was held in person — to $2.74 million in 2021.

“People came ready to buy,” Carter said. “It was incredibly heartening.”

The Currier Museum of Art in Manchester has faced financial challenges from being closed for most of 2020 and much of 2021, according to Chong, but it was able to reopen in 2021 with a special exhibition called “The Body in Art,” which looked at images of nudes from different perspectives, like gender, culture and time period.

“The museum also acquired a second house designed by Frank Lloyd Wright just before the pandemic,” Chong said. “We were so happy to be able to open both houses to the public in 2021.”

The museum is now offering free admission for all on Thursday nights, with live music, tours and refreshments.

Joni Taube, owner of Art 3 gallery, also re-opened her studio to the public this year, changing her hours to 1 to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, with other times open by appointment. Taube, who does art design consulting for individuals and businesses, said that at the beginning of the pandemic she had to adapt how she showed the work in her gallery by hosting virtual show openings, and that has continued in 2021 because her space is too small for gatherings. She said she may have 70 to 80 artists showing at one time, with the majority of the works being paintings, along with some glass, ceramics and metal pieces. In working with so many artists, Taube has heard a range of reactions to the pandemic.

“Artists are doing more experimenting because they’re in their studios all the time now,” she said. “Some are frustrated because the galleries are closed. Many of them have way too much work in their studios that they’d like to find an outlet for. … Some are hunkered down and painting and happy. … I think that’s how a lot of them coped.”

Taube said she thinks it has been difficult financially for artists, which is one of the reasons she started posting work online.

“You try different things for them [like] social media [and putting] shows online so the artists feel like their work is getting exposure,” she said.

The League of New Hampshire Craftsmen was able to reopen its smaller galleries, and Carter said the artists who display their work there have been well-supported by the public.

“Shopping local has really started to stick,” Carter said. “There seems to be a mindset to support the local talent. … [I think] that’s a direct impact of Covid.”

Looking ahead, Carter said the League is already preparing for the 2022 fair and will be ready to adapt if needed.

“At headquarters we’re really excited to be returning to opening our exhibition gallery, [which has been] closed since [the start of the pandemic],” she said.

The gallery will open Jan. 20 with a three-day exhibition of Art & Bloom by the Concord Garden Club. It will then open for regular hours starting Jan. 25 on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from noon to 4 p.m. A new exhibition called “Setting the Standard,” featuring new work from League jurors in all media areas, will be on display at that time.

At the Currier, Chong said they’re watching the omicron variant situation carefully and will make decisions based on keeping the community safe.

“We are continuing to push experiences [like] remote art classes and educational resources,” Chong said.

A new exhibition featuring the work of Arghavan Khosravi is scheduled to open in April, according to Chong, and the Currier will also be showing Warhol Screen Tests: “short film snippets made in the 1960s that prefigure our selfie culture,” he said.

Art 3 Gallery currently has a show that will be up for another few weeks called “Artful Escapes.”

Taube is hoping to have some in-person opening receptions next year but knows that as with this year, everything can change at any time.

“I don’t know what 2022 is going to bring,” she said. “I’m hoping that people start coming out more and looking again at art, thinking about spaces, decor and how they want to live and have an appreciation of what people go through in terms of forming a piece of artwork.”

Theater

Still reeling from a huge loss of income after the months-long shutdowns in 2020, New Hampshire performance companies and venues spent 2021 recuperating and trying to regain some stability.

Salvatore Prizio, who became the Executive Director of the Capitol Center for the Arts in Concord last fall, said financial difficulty is the biggest challenge to come with his new position.

“One of the major issues CCA and all performing arts centers are facing now is getting back on their feet [financially],” he told the Hippo in November. “They have a lot of fiscal issues from being shut down for months.”

As restrictions on public gatherings were eased, many performance companies and venues saw an opportunity to increase revenue by expanding their programming options as much as possible, to accommodate people with all levels of Covid safety concerns.

“New Hampshire Theatre Project moved to a variety of alternative formats last year, including livestream and on-demand programming as well as in-person and outdoor performances,” said Genevieve Aichele, executive director of the Portsmouth-based company, which had lost 75 percent of its income in 2020, according to Aichele.

The Hatbox Theatre in Concord reopened with its first in-person mainstage production of the year in early summer. With masks required and seats distanced, the venue was able to operate at around 85 percent capacity.

“[Having in-person shows] enables us to … get to a point where productions not only break even but might actually come out ahead a little for their next production,” theater owner and operator Andrew Pinard told the Hippo in June.

Manchester-based Cue Zero Theatre Company was one of a number of local companies and venues that utilized a hybrid format for its performances, allowing people to attend in person or watch from home via livestream.

“Being able to offer streaming alongside the in-person performances created new opportunities for us to reach both a wider audience as well as keep our local audiences feeling safe and comfortable,” Cue Zero artistic director Dan Pelletier said, adding that the company “had a successful 2021, all things considered.”

The New Hampshire theater community also took time in 2021 to celebrate the technology and experimental forms of performance that have kept them going through the pandemic.

“The pandemic has truly redefined the way theater artists make work,” said Matt Cahoon, artist director of Theatre Kapow in Manchester. “We feel very fortunate to have found ways to innovate.”

Powerhouse Theatre Collaborative in Laconia, for example, teamed up with the Community Players of Concord in April to host a Zoom Play Festival, featuring a series of new short plays by New Hampshire playwrights, written specifically for performance over the Zoom video chat platform; and the theme of New Hampshire Theatre Project’s annual Storytelling Festival, held in the spring virtually and in person in Portsmouth, was “What Are You Waiting For?” — a theme inspired, Aichele said, by the innovation of the arts community during the pandemic.

“It’s a new world; we can’t do art the way we used to,” Aichele told the Hippo in April, “so why not use Covid as an opportunity to reinvent ourselves? What are we waiting for? That’s really what these stories are about — not waiting to act or make a change.”

Heading into the new year, performance companies and venues are hopeful that they can continue to present shows in person, but are at the ready to go fully virtual again, should restrictions on public gatherings be reinstated.

“We are well aware that we may need to return to virtual performances at some point in the future, but truly feel prepared to make that transition if need be,” Cahoon said, adding that Theater Kapow is “also working hard to incorporate many of the lessons we have learned and the technology we have acquired into our in-person performances.”

Some companies and venues have had so much success with their virtual programming that they plan to offer it, in addition to their in-person programming, indefinitely, regardless of the Covid situation.

“Digital media … is going to be a long-term component of performing arts centers,” Prizio told the Hippo in November. “That’s going to be critical for us down the road. It’s a way we can reach a wider audience and allow people who might not have the opportunity to get to our physical space, like some of the folks living in senior centers, for example, to experience art from the comfort of their own home.”

Many theater directors are optimistic about the future of community theater, even in the face of uncertainty.

“2021 brought new challenges, but also new opportunities, and we are a stronger company because of it,” said Rob Dionne, artistic director of Majestic Theatre in Manchester. “We are looking forward to seeing our audiences grow again in 2022.”

“We know the challenges of Covid are not going away,” Pelletier added, “but we look forward to traversing them with our audiences into a new landscape where we can continue to create our brand of theater and art.”

Things to look forward to in 2022

ART
• “Setting the Standard”: A new exhibition at League of New Hampshire Craftsmen headquarters in Concord that will feature new work from League jurors in all media areas will be open to guests Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays from noon to 4 p.m. starting Jan. 25. Visit nhcrafts.org.
Arghavan Khosravi exhibition: The Currier Museum of Art in Manchester will host an exhibition featuring the work of Arghavan Khosravi, “an immensely talented artist whose challenging images have a striking surrealist quality,” according to museum director Alan Chong. The opening date will be announced soon. Visit currier.org.

THEATER
• The Majestic Academy of Dramatic Arts presents a Young Performers’s Edition of The Wizard of Oz at the Derry Opera House (29 W. Broadway, Derry), with showtimes on Friday, Jan. 28, and Saturday, Jan. 29, at 7 p.m., and Sunday, Jan. 30, at 2 p.m. Tickets cost $15 for adults, $12 for seniors age 65 and up and $10 for students age 17 and under. Call 669-7469 or visit majestictheatre.net.
• Glass Dove Productions presents Mary and Me at the Hatbox Theatre (Steeplegate Mall, 270 Loudon Road, Concord) from Jan. 28 through Feb. 13. The original play by Irene Kelleher, inspired by a true story, follows a pregnant 15-year-old girl and her search for understanding while growing up in 1986 Ireland. Tickets cost $22 for adults and $19 for seniors and students. Visit hatboxnh.com or call 715-2315.
• The Riverbend Youth Company will perform The Lion King Jr. at the Amato Center for the Performing Arts (56 Mont Vernon St., Milford), with showtimes on Friday, Feb. 4, at 7:30 p.m.; Saturday, Feb. 5, at 2:30 and 7:30 p.m.; and Sunday, Feb. 6, at 2:30 p.m. Tickets will go on sale in early January. Visit amatocenter.org/riverbend-youth-company.
• Cue Zero Theatre Co. presents Deadly, an original movement-based theater piece by Crystal Rose Welch, at Granite State Arts Academy (19 Keewaydin Drive, No. 4, Salem), with showtimes Friday, March 4, through Sunday, March 6. With a nine-person ensemble, Deadly uses movement to explore the modern-day seven deadly sins. Visit cztheatre.com
• The Franklin Footlight Theatre presents a production of Little Women at the Franklin Opera House (316 Central St., Franklin) with showtimes on Thursday, March 10, through Saturday, March 12, at 7:30 p.m., and Sunday, March 13, at 2 p.m. Based on Louisa May Alcott’s classic 1869 novel, the play follows the adventures of four sisters living with their mother in Massachusetts while their father is fighting in the Civil War. Tickets cost $16 for adults and $14 for students and seniors. Visit franklinoperahouse.org or call 934-1901.
• The Palace Theatre (80 Hanover St., Manchester) presents a mainstage production of Bye Bye Birdie from March 11 through April 3. The musical comedy, set in 1958 small-town America, centers around teen heartthrob Conrad Birdie, who has been drafted into the Army and announces that he will give one girl from his fan club a goodbye-kiss before reporting for duty. Tickets range from $25 to $46. Visit palacetheatre.org or call 668-5588.

Featured Photo: Untitled by Arghavan Khosravi. Courtesy photo.

Powder Days, by Heather Hansman

Powder Days, by Heather Hansman (Hanover Square Press, 264 pages)

Heather Hansman learned to love skiing in New England, even though she’s more of a West Coast woman these days. An accomplished writer and editor who has worked for magazines such as Outside, Backcountry and Powder, Hansman doesn’t qualify as a ski bum, the skiing-obsessed person who will take on low-paying jobs at ski resorts in order to indulge the passion full-time. But she was for a while and brings deep insider knowledge to Powder Days, an examination of what rising temperatures are doing to the ski industry, wrapped in a love letter to the sport and to winter.

“I know that skiing is ephemeral and selfish, but I ache when I’m away from it for too long, and I don’t think it’s just the dopamine drop that drives the fixation,” Hansman writes.

Before you non-skiers depart for lack of interest, you should know that while this is a book written by a skier for other skiers, this shouldn’t be a deal-breaker for the sedentary and clumsy (myself the latter). Hansman is a graceful writer, as lithe in language as in body, and while she occasionally slips into skier-speak, with a little Googling, you will learn many interesting things, such as that dangerous clumps of snow on a ski route are called frozen chicken heads, a term I enthusiastically welcome to my vocabulary. In short, I don’t ski, and I still found this book engrossing.

Hansmen begins by recalling her early ski-bum days, which began around a campfire in Maine when another skier offered Hansman a job scanning lift tickets at a ski resort in Colorado. “I latched on to the idea that if I went west, I would be braver and truer and more exciting,” she writes.

She had become a skier like most people do — because her parents paid for lessons. “You don’t become a skier by accident — it’s an objectively stupid, expensive, gear-intensive sport — but my parents enabled it early, cramming my brother and me into hand-me-down boots and carting us to New Hampshire, so they could ski too,” she writes. “ … In college, I’d wake up in the post-party, predawn dark to drive across Maine and New Hampshire just to ski knobby backcountry lines in the White Mountains. I’ve always felt clearer in motion.”

That said, Hansman came from a family of occasional skiers, not those who strap toddlers to skis while they are learning to walk. Her obsession with the sport and lifestyle grew organically, somewhat to her bewilderment. “Skiers chase snow and freedom and wildness, at the expense of a lot of other things. I’m still trying to understand how something so ephemeral can shape your whole life.”

Hansman dips into the history of skiing in the U.S, acknowledging “the ski industry starts where my ski story starts, in the knobby mountains of New England.” She recalls skiing the Tuckerman Ravine and the Sherburne Trail of Mount Washington, created in the 1930s, back when runs were “steep and skinny, just a couple of skis wide.”

“That was skiing for a long time, no lifts, just a grind uphill and a slide back down.”

She then zips through how the sport exploded, its growth tracking with the lives of baby boomers, and how its popularity in the 1970s led to today’s elaborate resorts and McMountain trails that she fears have taken the soul out of the sport and tarnished it with elitism. (Fun fact: more than 50 billionaires have homes in Aspen.)

The bigger problem for the industry, however, is not the unaffordability of homes in ski country, but the warming climate. There’s less snow these days than there was a quarter-century ago, and it’s not always cold enough to make snow, as 88 percent of ski resorts do. We are seeing, as Hansman puts it, “the winnowing of winter.” She quotes a meteorologist friend who says that what concerns him most is that low temperatures are increasing faster than high temperatures. This means that places like New England have fewer days when the temperature falls below freezing.

“Depending on the emissions scenario you choose, snowfall is predicted to shrink by up to a third by the end of the century. That thin margin of winter is going to have a huge bearing on the future of skiing, and on whether or not people can keep counting on the seasons to eke out a way of life.”

Hansman’s worries that Aspen could be the new Amarillo by century’s end may strike some as the hysteria of the climate-grief-stricken. By the end of January, her fear of “hot, snowless winters” may actually hold some appeal. But there is real concern about what will happen if recent trends continue. Resorts can make snow, sure, but it still has to be cold enough. “I get a deep gut ache when I think about losing snow, about the contrast between my childhood memories of snow and the gray slush of right now. … New England skiing feels almost too painful now. How could it have gotten this bad so fast?”

Hansman ends with another kind of grief, the acknowledgement that skiing can be deadly. “If you get deep into skiing, eventually you have to acknowledge that the thing you love can kill the people you love.” Then, she pivots into the tendency for thrill-seekers like skiers to abuse drugs and alcohol, and sometimes to kill themselves. Deaths of despair are on the rise in the U.S. and this is an important topic, but it was a bit jarring to have this conversation take place at the end of the book. That said, it’s a small quibble with an otherwise solid book, which might even be more interesting for nonskiers than skiers, who already know about frozen chicken heads.


Book Events

Author events

JAMES ROLLINS Author presents The Starless Crown, in conversation with Terry Brooks. Virtual event hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Mon., Jan. 10, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com.

TIMOTHY BOUDREAU Author presents on the craft of writing short stories. Sat., Jan. 15, 9:45 to 11:45 a.m. Peterborough Town Library, 2 Concord St., Peterborough. Visit monadnockwriters.org.

CHAD ORZEL Author presents A Brief History of Timekeeping. Virtual event hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Thurs., Jan. 27, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com.

ISABEL ALLENDE Author presents Violeta. Virtual event hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Sat., Jan. 29, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration and tickets required, to include the purchase of the book. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com.

JOHN NICHOLS Author presents Coronavirus Criminals and Pandemic Profiters. Virtual event hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Tues., Feb. 1, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com.

GARY SAMPSON AND INEZ MCDERMOTT Photographer Sampson and art historian McDermott discuss New Hampshire Now: A Photographic Diary of Life in the Granite State. Sat., Feb. 19, 9:45 to 11:45 a.m. Peterborough Town Library, 2 Concord St., Peterborough. Visit monadnockwriters.org.

Poetry

CAROL WESTBURG AND SUE BURTON Virtual poetry reading hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Thurs., Jan. 20, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com or call 224-0562.

DOWN CELLAR POETRY SALON Poetry event series presented by the Poetry Society of New Hampshire. Monthly. First Sunday. Visit poetrysocietynh.wordpress.com.

Book Clubs

BOOKERY Online. Monthly. Third Thursday, 6 p.m. Bookstore based in Manchester. Visit bookerymht.com/online-book-club or call 836-6600.

GIBSON’S BOOKSTORE Online, via Zoom. Monthly. First Monday, 5:30 p.m. Bookstore based in Concord. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com/gibsons-book-club-2020-2021 or call 224-0562.

TO SHARE BREWING CO. 720 Union St., Manchester. Monthly. Second Thursday, 6 p.m. RSVP required. Visit tosharebrewing.com or call 836-6947.

GOFFSTOWN PUBLIC LIBRARY 2 High St., Goffstown. Monthly. Third Wednesday, 1:30 p.m. Call 497-2102, email elizabethw@goffstownlibrary.com or visit goffstownlibrary.com

BELKNAP MILL Online. Monthly. Last Wednesday, 6 p.m. Based in Laconia. Email bookclub@belknapmill.org.

NASHUA PUBLIC LIBRARY Online. Monthly. Second Friday, 3 p.m. Call 589-4611, email information@nashualibrary.org or visit nashualibrary.org.

Language

FRENCH LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE CLASSES

Offered remotely by the Franco-American Centre. Six-week session with classes held Thursdays from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. $225. Visit facnh.com/education or call 623-1093.

Making Spirits Bright

Wherein John Fladd presents “TannenBombed – A High-Proof Christmas Card in Eight Parts.”

A note on measurements: For non-liquid ingredients, like sugar and stuff, I measure by volume and weigh it as I go. In general when I cook, I almost entirely measure ingredients by weight, when possible, especially with baking, because I find it’s more precise. For those who prefer to wing it with cups and teaspoons, I’ve approximated those.

Part 1:

Saint Nicholas

A lot of people conflate Saint Nicholas with Santa Claus, which is, at best, overly simplistic and, at worst, potentially dangerous. He was not a man to take lightly.

Nicholas of Myrna is one of the early Catholic and Orthodox saints — really early, like Roman Empire-early. Apparently, “jolly” was not really one of his outstanding character traits. Nicholas was more of a roll-up-the-sleeves-of-your-robes-and-knock-some-sense-into-them kind of saint. According to the Saint Nicholas Center (stnicholascenter.org), during his lifetime he was best known for chasing demons out of trees with an ax — apparently demonic possession of trees was a thing in the fourth century — and punching a fellow theologian in the face at the Council of Nicaea.

“But, surely,” you say, “he must have had something to do with children. He’s the Patron Saint of Children, after all.”

Pawnbroker Cocktail. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

Funny you should ask, actually. Yes, Saint Nicholas is the Patron Saint of Children — as well as thieves, brewers, sailors and wolves — because of a light, charming, amusing* anecdote. (*Actually, it’s pretty much the opposite of light or charming.)

It seems that a rogue butcher, or maybe an innkeeper – there are several versions of the story — kidnapped three children and cut them up to make into sausage. Worried parents asked Nicholas to get their children back for them. According to the story, Nicholas went to the butcher’s workshop and called for the children to come home with him, whereupon the body parts sprang up from various vats, reassembled themselves into little boys and followed him back to their village. The moral of the story, I suppose, is that even in the Late Roman Empire some things were off the table — literally, in this case.

A more cheerful story — and probably the connection with Santa Claus — is the story of The Golden Balls:

It seems that a wealthy man fell on hard times and didn’t have any money to provide his three daughters with dowries to attract good husbands. He was in the process of preparing to sell them into prostitution — because of course he was — when Nicholas saved the day by throwing three gold balls down their chimney, where they landed in the girls’ shoes, or possibly their stockings.

You would think that this would be enough to make him the Patron Saint of Brides or Stockings or maybe Balls, but in fact it landed him the gig as Patron Saint of Pawn-Brokers. (This is why most pawn shops have a sign with three golden balls by their front doors.)

Pawnbroker Cocktail

  • 2 ounces apple brandy — I like Laird’s Applejack
  • 1 ounce Goldschläger — a cinnamon schnapps with flecks of actual gold in it
  • 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker.

Shake.

Strain into a small, fancy glass. As you drink this, think about how much you’d have to pay someone to take one of your kids off your hands. You’ll come away with a new appreciation for Nicholas.

This is a take on a classic cocktail called a sidecar. Think of it as a cousin to a margarita, but with brandy instead of tequila, and, in this case, a sweet, cinnamony associate. The taste of this drink is very cinnamon-forward, but, as with Saint Nicholas himself, do not underestimate it. The Goldschläger is sweet and a bit candy-like but clocks in at over 80 proof. If you had too many of these too quickly, you could find yourself threatening your houseplants with a spatula, trying to rid them of malignant spirits. (In fact, you are probably just over-watering them.)

Part 2:

Drinking punch with Charles Dickens

Charles Dickens was a big fan of punch — proper punch, with something sweet, something sour, and an alcoholic kick that would stun a musk ox. During the Victorian period, being able to serve a self-respecting punch was a status symbol for any host. Today we think of the term “punch drunk” in the sense of a boxer who is on his last legs, but the whole reason that phrase ever caught on in the first place is that everyone was familiar with the concept of being drunk on punch.

Apparently, Dickens’ favorite punch was a version of something called a Smoking Bishop, which was traditionally heated by lighting it on fire or, better yet, plunging a red-hot poker into it, which frankly seems a bit intimidating. Fortunately he provided an alternative.

In A Christmas Carol Dickens makes several passing references to punch but never gets specific about what, aside from lemons, should go into a decent Christmas punch. (The lemons themselves are a bit of a tell, though. When you think of what an extravagance lemons would have been to a man like Bob Cratchit, you get a glimpse into what a special occasion punch-drinking was.) A better guide comes from Our Mutual Friend:

You don’t use lemon in your business, do you?’ asked Wegg, sniffing again.

No, Mr Wegg,’ said Venus. ‘When I use it at all, I mostly use it in cobblers’ punch.’

What do you call cobblers’ punch?’ demanded Wegg, in a worse humour than before.

It’s difficult to impart the receipt for it, sir,’ returned Venus, ‘because, however particular you may be in allotting your materials, so much will still depend upon the individual gifts, and there being a feeling thrown into it. But the groundwork is gin.’

In a Dutch bottle?’ said Wegg gloomily, as he sat himself down.

Very good, sir, very good!’ cried Venus. ‘Will you partake, sir?’

Will I partake?’ returned Wegg very surlily. ‘Why, of course I will!”

Charles Dickens, Our Mutual Friend

So let’s take a stab at a Cobbler’s Punch.

Cobbler’s Punch. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

Cobbler’s Punch

  • 3 lemons, large and as deeply yellow as you can find. (Your best bet will be to look in the seafood department of your supermarket.)
  • ¾ cup white sugar
  • 1 750-ml bottle of very cold gin
  • ½ cup / 4 ounces limoncello
  • 3 12-ounce bottles of extremely bubbly seltzer, chilled. Topo Chico would be excellent for this.

Peel the lemons and muddle the rind with the sugar at the bottom of a punch bowl.

Turn your back on the lemon sugar and find something else to do for three hours — maybe watch the first two Die Hard movies (see below).

Shortly before your guests arrive, squeeze the lemons. You’re aiming for ¾ cup of juice. Add it to the lemon sugar in your punch bowl, and stir to dissolve. You will be surprised at how much moisture the lemon peels have released already, preparing the sugar for its final disposition.

Add the other ingredients and stir.

Add an extremely large block of ice. If you have a small Bundt pan, make it in that. It will be a fancy ring of ice with a lot of surface area to chill the punch. Garnish with thin slices of lemon.

The key to this punch is the lemons. Dickens was right about that. It might be tempting to try rounding out the flavor with triple sec, or elderflower liqueur, or something that isn’t lemony. Don’t do it. The lemons know what they’re doing; don’t get in their way. Limoncello is the way to go on this.

The second key to this punch is extreme cold. Store your gin in the freezer for a day or so ahead of time. It won’t freeze, but it will get shockingly cold. Chill your seltzer. If it’s really cold outside on the night of your party, make this on the patio. Or balcony. Or fire escape.

Part 3:

Is Die Hard a Christmas Movie?

Yes. Yes, it is.

The Nakatini

  • 2 ounces Szechuan peppercorn-infused gin (see below)
  • 1½ ounces ginger syrup
  • 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice
The Nakatini. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake like a building that has just had a bomb go off on the roof, taking out a helicopter full of overconfident federal agents.

Strain carefully into a martini glass — carefully, as if the gin were an international terrorist with unknown motivations.

Drink it. You have two options here:

(a) Knock it back blithely, overconfident in your ability to handle factors well beyond your understanding. This might not end well for you, but fortune favors the bold. Sometimes.

(b) Sip it gingerly (get it?) like a wounded hero hobbling across the floor with feet full of broken glass.

Every now and then you run across somebody who has never seen Die Hard. If you ever managed to sit them down and force them to watch it, they would almost certainly start out skeptical:

Them: “Bruce Willis? Really? But he’s so

You: “Shhh. Be patient.”

After half an hour they will slip into a stunned silence.

Approximately an hour and a half, two explosions and 73 shootings later (I looked it up) they will be sitting, mouth agape, in a sort of a fugue state.

You: “So?”

Them: “Wow. I, uh, I had no idea. Um wow.”

You: “Do you want to watch it again?”

Them: “Yes. No. Uh, my brain can’t um

You: “Will you ever be the same, from this point forward?”

Them: “I really don’t think so.”

That’s what drinking a Nakatini is like. Szechuan peppercorns are delicious, spicy — not too hot — and a little citrusy. They go well with the aromatics in gin. Gin, in its turn, goes extremely well with lemon, which goes with the citrusness of the peppercorns. All of it marries well with ginger.

But Szechuan peppercorns — and this is the part that is just like watching Die Hard for the first time — have a numbing effect on your lips and tongue. Your mouth will feel exactly like it just watched a wounded cop swing through a window on the end of a fire hose.

Szechuan Pepper-Infused Gin

  • 1 cup / 8 ounces / 237 ml. good-but-not-very-expensive gin
  • 1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns

Combine the gin and Szechuan peppercorns in a small bottle. Forcing the peppercorns through the neck of a funnel with a chopstick will break them up just enough.

Cap the bottle and shake it. Let the mixture infuse for 24 hours, shaking it periodically.

Strain and rebottle.

Part 4:

A Christmas Drink for Guys and Dolls

Before Tom and Jerry were a cartoon, they were a Very Serious Drink.

As described by Damon Runyan:

This hot Tom and Jerry is an old-time drink that is once used by one and all in this country to celebrate Christmas with, and in fact it is once so popular that many people think Christmas is invented only to furnish an excuse for hot Tom and Jerry, although of course this is by no means true. … Now of course Good Time Charley and I are not using rum in the Tom and Jerry we are making, as we do not wish to do anything illegal. What we are using is rye whisky that Good Time Charley gets on a doctor’s prescription from a drug store, as we are personally drinking this hot Tom and Jerry and naturally we are not foolish enough to use any of Good Time Charley’s own rye in it. The prescription for the rye whisky comes from old Doc Moggs, who prescribes it for Good Time Charley’s rheumatism in case Charley happens to get any rheumatism, as Doc Moggs says there is nothing better for rheumatism than rye whisky, especially if it is made up in a hot Tom and Jerry.

— Damon Runyon, Dancing Dan’s Christmas, Damon Runyon Omnibus

Tom and Jerry. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The good news about a Tom and Jerry is that it doesn’t require any preparations that need to be made days in advance. Do not be overconfident, however — making a credible T&J requires a cool eye and steady nerves.

Tom and Jerry Batter

  • 3 eggs, separated
  • ¼ cup powdered sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground allspice
  • ¼ teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Beat egg whites to stiff peaks.

Separately, beat the egg yolks, powdered sugar and spices until they lighten in color. (The mixture will look like whole-grain mustard, but not as angry.)

Carefully fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture, being careful not to deflate them. This is a lot like making a soufflé, if that means anything to you. Beat about 1/4 of the egg whites into the mixture, just to lighten it up a bit. Then add the rest of the whites, 1/3 at a time, folding them in gently, until everything is evenly mixed but still light and fluffy. You’ll have 3 or 4 cups of the final mixture when you are done.

Set this mixture aside. It is your “batter.”

Tom and Jerry

  • 2 Tablespoons / ¼ cup “batter” mixture
  • 2 Tablespoons / ¼ cup “batter” mixture
  • ¾ ounces brandy or 2 ounces rye whiskey
  • 1½ ounces dark rum — Myers, in this case

Hot milk

Add “batter” and alcohol to a mug. The 1935 edition of the Mr. Boston Bartender’s Guide is explicit about the importance of making a Tom and Jerry in a heated mug, so fill yours with boiling water for a few minutes before mixing the actual drink. Remember to pour the water out before adding the other ingredients. That may seem obvious, but might become less so after two or three Tom and Jerrys.

Top with hot milk. (How hot? I like mine to be around 175º F / 80º C.)

Stir to combine.

Garnish with fresh-grated nutmeg. Seriously, if you’ve never grated your own nutmeg, try it. Just smell a little of it in the palm of your hand. It will be a revelation.

I tried this recipe both ways — with rum and with rye. I’m generally a rum guy, and even Damon Runyon’s character admits up front that a Tom and Jerry is best with rum. On the other hand, I’d feel foolish to go to all this trouble and end up with rheumatism.

The rye recipe is completely delicious. The spiciness of the rye plays really well with the black pepper. There is a whiskeyness to it that feels extremely Runyonesque.

Tom and Jerry 1 – rheumatism 0.

The rum recipe knocked me back on my heels. I have to go with the 1930s hoodlum logic on this. A rum Tom and Jerry — or three — would make for a truly magical Christmas. The deep, sweet muskiness of the rum adds a layer of decadence to the whole affair that really could convince you to break into a showgirl’s apartment dressed as Santa Claus and leave her stolen diamonds. (See Damon Runyan, above.)

(If the idea of using a raw egg in a cocktail is a little too 1930s hoodlumish for you, some supermarkets carry pasteurized eggs. Alternatively, you can pasteurize your own by heating them in a water bath at 135 degrees for two hours. If you have a sous vide apparatus, this is an excellent use for it. If you don’t, you know what to ask for this Christmas.)

Part 5:

Giving the Joint Some Atmosphere

Nick: “Hey, look mister, we serve hard drinks in here for men who want to get drunk fast. And we don’t need any characters around to give the joint atmosphere. Is that clear? Or do I have to slip you my left for a convincer?”

Nick(Sheldon Leonard)– It’s a Wonderful Life, 1946

I was a senior in college before I saw It’s a Wonderful Life. In my defense, this was in the mid-’80s, before the movie was on TV, demand and video quite so ubiquitously.

Pottersville Special. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

We were screening it in the school’s dining hall. The music swelled, Zuzu said her line about angels getting their wings, and the movie ended. Someone turned on the lights, and the other students all got up, put on their coats and left, leaving me and a buddy of mine sitting there, crying like French soccer players.

I hadn’t even realized that JP was at the movie. Apparently, he hadn’t ever seen the movie before either, because he got up and walked across the room to me, tears streaming down his face.

“Are you OK?” he asked me.

I nodded between sobs.

“It’s just that he had … such … a … hard … life!”

JP understood.

“But … it … was ….” At this point, we both broke down completely.

“…A WONDERFUL life!” he wailed. We hugged.

To this day I can get through the entire movie pretty well until that last scene, when the whole town shows up to give Jimmy Stewart money, and Martini, the bar owner, shouts, “I broke open the juke-a-box!”

**Sniff**

Dang it.

Pottersville Special

  • 1½ ounces rye
  • ¾ ounce sweet vermouth
  • ⅛ teaspoon orange bitters

Shake over ice.

Pour into a rocks glass.

Drink, garnished with sentimental tears.

This is delicious, with a hard edge. It makes you realize that you may have bought that rye to make the Damon Runyan drink but you are starting to really like it. It has an emotional whiskeyness to it, but sweetened and tempered by the vermouth and bitters. This is what you’d drink if the bank examiner were coming to serve a warrant for your arrest, but if you weren’t quite ready for prison yet.

Part 6:

Big Man on Krampus

“The Feast of St. Nicholas is celebrated in parts of Europe on 6 December. On the preceding evening of 5 December, Krampus Night or Krampusnacht, the wicked hairy devil appears on the streets. Sometimes accompanying St. Nicholas and sometimes on his own, Krampus visits homes and businesses. … Unlike North American versions of Santa Claus, in these celebrations Saint Nicholas concerns himself only with the good children, while Krampus is responsible for the bad. Nicholas dispenses gifts, while Krampus supplies coal and the Ruten bundles (birch rods to beat the children with). It is customary to offer a Krampus schnapps, a strong distilled fruit brandy.”

— Wikipedia page on Krampus

Dieter Krampus snuck a look at his watch. He had a couple of minutes before he and The Boss had to be at the next house.

Switches and Coal. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

He set down his sack of birch switches and stood up straight, stretching the kinks out of his back. All in all this was a pretty good gig, but Dieter had to admit it was harder on his body than it used to be. He leaned his head from side to side, stretching out his neck, and was rewarded with a couple more popping sounds — a task that was aided significantly by the weight of the enormous horns growing out of the top of his head. He’d be happy to shed them in a couple of days. Yes, they itched like the devil as they grew back in, but he couldn’t imagine hauling that weight around all year.

“Herr Krampus?”

It didn’t matter how long they had worked together, The Boss was always formal.

Dieter was getting tired. It had been a long night. He let out a grunt as he bent over and picked up his sack. He must have groaned a little louder than he intended, because the saint called out softly to him again, this time with a little encouragement.

“Time for some schnapps, don’t you think, Herr Krampus?”

Say what you will about The Boss, nobody understood the concept of Carrot and Stick better than he did.

“On my way, Mein Herr.”

Switches and Coal

The legends and traditions are pretty clear: The traditional drink for a Krampus is a straight shot of schnapps. That’s great if you’re putting in a hard night of terrifying children, but what about when your shift is over and you get a chance to put your hooves up? You’ll want something refreshing but with some authority.

This is a take on a classic drink called a Black Satin, but boilermaker-y:

  • 3 ounces very dark beer — stout or porter
  • 3 ounces brut Champagne
  • 2 ounces of the darkest rum you can get your hands on — I like Cruzan Black Strap

Gently pour the very dark beer into a tall glass.

Float the Champagne on top of it. Pour it over the back of a spoon. It will not make visibly separate layers, but it makes a difference.

Pour a shot of very dark rum, then drop it into the mixture.

Drink, while complaining to your husband about your day.

We all understand, intellectually, that grapes are a fruit, but it is still shocking how fruity and chocolatey this drink is. It is utterly delicious and just what you want to drink if you’ve had a hard day with the kids. It goes down dangerously smoothly.

Part 7:

The Ferociousness of a Puerto Rican Grandmother

Over the past several years, as I have researched my family tree, the most joy has come — hands down — from a branch of my father’s family from the hill country in Kentucky.

Case in point: my Great Uncle Wirt, who was ridden out of town on a rail and ended up in upstate New York, and was arrested for fishing in a state park.

With dynamite.

Coquito. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

I mention this to help illustrate an (admittedly shaky) analogy between Kentucky and Puerto Rico. Both are well-known for their fine, sophisticated liquor — upscale bourbon near Churchill Downs, and golden añejo rum on the beaches and resorts of Puerto Rico. But as you move up into the hills in either place, both the people and their alcohol become somewhat alarming.

It would be rude to turn down your cousin Cletus’ offer of a taste of his moonshine — acknowledging all the while that you would be seriously rolling the dice to drink it. In the same vein, there are Puerto Rican grandfathers who make a sugarcane liquor called pitoro that can strip the chrome off a trailer hitch.

The traditional holiday drink in Puerto Rico in December is a rich, creamy concoction called coquito. Some people describe it as “Puerto Rican eggnog,” but that’s misleading; there are no eggs in it. There is, however, an alarming amount of pitoro.

Ask any Puerto Rican about coquito and they will get misty-eyed remembering their mother or grandmother’s recipe — much like a Southerner’s relationship with biscuits — but they will almost always finish with a statement like, “But if you go up into the hills, their coquito is really scary!”

A friend of mine tells me that each family has its own recipe for coquito. “At each house it tastes different,” she says. Every mother or grandmother has two secret ingredients that they use to make their version. “Some of my friends’ mothers added ice cream to make their coquito creamier,” my friend Myrta says. “My mother,” she adds, pausing dramatically, then continuing almost in a whisper, “uses pistachio ice cream.”

The second secret ingredient is almost always extra alcohol.

Let’s be really clear here: This will not be as good as Myrta’s mother’s coquito. It will be really, really good, but for the real stuff you’ll have to go to Puerto Rico.

Coquito

  • 1 15-ounce can cream of coconut (the presweetened, incredibly artificial kind you would use for dorm-room piña coladas)
  • 1 14-ounce can condensed milk
  • 1 14-ounce can coconut milk (Warning: If you even think of using any low-fat ingredients in coquito, you risk angering vengeful Caribbean spirits. I wouldn’t risk it.)
  • 1 cup / 8 ounces overproof rum (I like Gosling’s Black Seal 151.)
  • ½ cup water
  • 1 cup pistachio ice cream
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 2 whole cloves
  • 1 pinch ground cinnamon
  • 1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg

Add all ingredients except the cinnamon sticks and cloves to a blender. Blend on low speed for 1 to 2 minutes.

Strain into one large, or two large-ish, jars. Add the whole spices, seal and shake.

Refrigerate for at least overnight, or better yet, 2 to 3 days.

Your finished coquito will be pretty thick, so you will probably want to thin it with a little water, but that said, if you want to tackle it full-octane, more power to you.

Coquito is very everything — very sweet, very coconutty and very boozy. This is not for someone with mixed feelings about the holidays. It is for fully embracing the season and singing loudly— louder with each glass of coquito. I’m not saying you will necessarily end up waking your wife at 2 a.m. singing “Oh-hoe tie-eye-dings of CUH-HUM-FORT AND JOY!”, wavering on the lowest note you can force out of your chest.

But you might.

Part 8:

“Yeah, But What if I’m a Teetotalling, Gluten-Free Vegan?”

I think the best inspiration for this challenge is Hermey the Elf, from the Rankin-Bass Christmas classic Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. If you don’t remember Hermey, he is the tacitly closeted elf who, unhappily working on Santa’s toy assembly line, yearns to be a dentist. After being mocked and punished for not being as butch as the rest of the elves (Yes, I know. What can I say? It was the ’60s.), he runs away to seek his fortune, singing one of the greatest “I Want” songs in movie history:

Caffeine for Hermey. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

Hermey: “Why am I such a misfit? I am not just a nitwit. You can’t fire me, I quit. Seems I don’t fit in.”

Like every character in the Rudolph story, he is eventually provisionally accepted once he can prove himself useful to a judgmental society.

You could take several lessons from Hermey’s adventures:

Work hard and be loyal to your friends, and the Universe will reward you.

Inspire respect by ripping the teeth out of your enemies with pliers.

Don’t wait for the world to accommodate you; create your own destiny — or, in this case, your own festive holiday beverage.

Let’s focus on the third one, shall we?

Caffeine for Hermey

  • 2 cups almond milk
  • ⅓ cup white sugar
  • 1½ cups whole coffee beans
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 cup non-dairy half & half
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla

Combine the almond milk, sugar, salt, coffee beans and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan. Heat to just below a simmer, approximately 174 degrees, stirring occasionally. The sugar should dissolve completely.

Remove from heat, cover, and allow to steep for two hours.

Strain the mixture to remove the coffee beans and the cinnamon stick. Wash your hands and squeeze the coffee beans to wring every bit of flavor from them.

Add the non-dairy half & half and the vanilla. Stir to combine.

Chill for 2 to 3 hours.

Drink with a proud heart and kind thoughts for Hermey.

This is really good and all, but isn’t it just iced coffee?”

I can’t help noticing that you’re on your third glass of it.

Well, that’s only because it’s so creamy. It tastes … friendly.”

I wouldn’t know. There isn’t any left.

Uh, yeah … Merry Christmas.”

You too, Petal.

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

On Animals, by Susan Orlean

On Animals, by Susan Orlean (Avid Reader Press, 237 pages)

Susan Orlean had me at “Shiftless Little Loafers,” her 1996 essay in The New Yorker in which she bemoaned how little babies do to earn their keep.

But then she lost me. I’ve not kept up with Orlean’s work, even as she grew in fame and output. I didn’t read The Orchid Thief in 1998or The Library Book in 2018, and didn’t even know about Red Sox and Bluefish, a 1987 paperback collection of Boston Globe columns on “Things that Make New England New England.”)

My bad.

After reading On Animals, I’ve repented of Orlean negligence and vowed to catch up, even though her new book is the type that generally irritates me: one composed almost entirely of previously published works. These essays were originally published in The New Yorker, The Atlantic and Smithsonian magazine, and they’re introduced under the unifying umbrella of a 2011 Amazon Kindle Original.

Normally there’s one suitable response to pre-published essays released in book form just before the holiday season: pffft. As in, you want us to pay money for essays we’ve already read for free? However, this is the rare collection that’s worth overlooking the bald money grab, at least for anyone who is, like Orlean describes herself, “animalish.”

Orleans begins by describing an ordinary childhood of animal longing, in which she and her siblings had to overcome their mother’s resistance in order to obtain a dog and a butterscotch-colored mouse. Early on, Orlean displayed a quirky sense of comedy that underlies her work. She writes of the mouse, “I named her Sparky and pretended that she was some sort of championship show mouse, and I made a bunch of fake ribbons and trophies for her and I told people she had won them at mouse shows.”

In college she splurged on an Irish setter puppy, causing her mother to sigh, “Well, for heaven’s sake, Susie. You and your animals.” She married a man who once promised her a donkey for her birthday and who, for Valentine’s Day one year, arranged to have an African lion — “tawney and panting, with soft, round ears and paws as big as baseball mitts” — visit her Manhattan apartment on a leash. (The lion was accompanied by his owner and three off-duty police officers.)

Orlean quotes John Berger, who said that people get attached to animals because they remind us of the agrarian lives that most of us no longer lead, but she says it’s more than that, that animals give a “warm, wonderful, unpredictable texture” to life. As such, she’s spent much of her career writing about animals and spent much of personal life caring for them. (It helps that she lives on 50 acres in California, enabling her to keep creatures such as ducks and donkeys.)

In “The It Bird” Orlean writes of her interests in chickens and tells the fascinating story of how Martha Stewart helped to launch a nationwide chicken craze by publishing glamour shots of chickens in her magazine. “Show Dog” is a brief meditation on the lives of championship dogs, focusing on a boxer from Massachusetts named Biff. (“He has a dark mask, spongy lips, a wishbone-shaped white blaze, and the earnest and slightly careworn expression of a small-town mayor.)

“The Lady and the Tigers” explores the strange life of the New Jersey woman who owned 24 or so tigers, more than Six Flags Wild Safari. “You know how it is — you start with one tiger, then you get another and another, then a few are born and a few die, and you start to lose track of details like exactly how many tigers you have.”

In “Riding High,” Orlean examines the history of the mule, the cross of a male donkey and a female horse that is always sterile because of its uneven number of chromosomes, and in “Where Donkeys Deliver,” she writes of falling in love with “the plain tenderness of their faces and their attitude of patient resignation and even their impenetrable, obdurate temperaments.”

This essay is as much a reflection on the mind-boggling differences in cultures as it is on donkeys alone. Orlean notes that donkeys in America are mostly kept as pets, whereas in other countries, such as Morocco, they remain beasts of burden. She writes of seeing a small, harnessed donkey walking gingerly alone down a steep road in Fez, with no one showing any interest. When she asked someone about this, she was told the donkey “was probably just finished with work and on his way home.”

Other animals that merit their own chapter in this book include rabbits, lions, pandas, oxen, pigeons and whales, with side trips into the business of taxidermy and animal actors in Hollywood.

In her chapter on chickens, Orlean acknowledges a largely ignored problem: Animals live short and brutish lives and then die, giving animalish people self-inflicted pain. She writes of sitting in a vet’s office sobbing after having to have a sick chicken euthanized. (“I eat chicken all the time, so I have no right to morally oppose the killing of a chicken, but I couldn’t kill my own pet.”) And she owns turkeys, “an impulse buy,” but they are pets that will not be eaten. “I am having turkey for Thanksgiving, but not my turkeys,” she writes. (Her husband calls them “landscape animals.”)

Eventually Orlean concludes that animals are “an ideal foil for examining the human condition.” Agreed, but animals are more a romp in the park than a philosophy class. That’s true of On Animals, as well. A

Book Notes

The end of the year is time for celebrating with family and friends, making resolutions for the new year, and hearing wealthy CEOs tell us what books we should have read but probably didn’t.

Bill Gates, for example, had a difficult year PR-wise but still found time to share his five favorite books of the year in a video in which he strolls through a holiday tableau, under what’s probably fake snow, wearing a buffalo-checked lumberjack shirt as if he were a simple man of the people. (You can find this on YouTube.)

Gates, who famously reads 50 books a year, says he looks forward to reading for three hours a day when he’s on vacation. His five recommended books for 2021:

Project Hail Mary (Ballantine, 496 pages) by Andy Weir, a novel by the author of The Martian, about a high-school teacher who is startled to wake up in a different star system. (Gates read the book over a weekend, he said.)

Hamnet (Knopf, 320 pages) by Maggie O’Farrell, speculative fiction about William Shakespeare’s life; Hamnet was the name of his son, who died at age 11.

A Thousand Brains, a New Theory of Intelligence (Basic, 288 pages) by Jeff Hawkins, who is best known as the co-inventor of the PalmPilot, one of the first handheld computers. In this book he delves into artificial intelligence and where it’s headed.

The Code Breaker: Jennifer Doudna, Gene Editing and the Future of the Human Race (Simon & Schuster, 560 pages), by Walter Isaacson, probes the development and ethical quandaries presented by CRISPR gene editing technology.

Klara and the Sun (Knopf, 320 pages) by Kazuo Ishiguro is a thought-provoking novel about a specific form of artificial intelligence, the personal robot engineered to be a companion to humans.

For what it’s worth, we, too, loved Klara and The Sun, and gave it an A back in the spring. So we’re more interested in what Ishiguro believes to be the best books of the year than Gates. There’s no heartwarming video involved, but here they are, courtesy of the UK newspaper The Guardian, which did a roundup of several authors’ favorites.

The Premonition, A Pandemic Story (W.W. Norton, 320 pages) by Michael Lewis; Failures of State (Mudlark, 432 pages) by Jonathan Calvert and George Arbuthnott; The Dangers of Smoking in Bed: Stories (Hogarth, 208 pages) by Mariana Enriquez; and Spike, The Virus vs. the People by Jeremy Farrar and Anjana Ahuja (Profile Books, 253 pages).


Book Events

Author events

MIDDLE GRADE AUTHOR PANELFeaturing middle grade authors Padma Venkatraman, Barbara Dee, Leah Henderson, Aida Salazar and Lindsey Stoddard. Virtual event hosted by Toadstool Bookshops in Peterborough, Nashua and Keene. Sat., Dec. 18, 4 p.m. Via Zoom. Visit toadbooks.com.

JOHN NICHOLS Author presents Coronavirus Criminals and Pandemic Profiters. Virtual event hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Tues., Feb. 1, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com or call 224-0562.

GARY SAMPSON AND INEZ MCDERMOTT Photographer Sampson and art historian McDermott discuss New Hampshire Now: A Photographic Diary of Life in the Granite State. Sat., Feb. 19, 9:45 to 11:45 a.m. Peterborough Town Library, 2 Concord St., Peterborough. Visit monadnockwriters.org.

TIMOTHY BOUDREAU Author presents on the craft of writing short stories. Sat., Jan. 15, 9:45 to 11:45 a.m. Peterborough Town Library, 2 Concord St., Peterborough. Visit monadnockwriters.org.

Poetry

CAROL WESTBURG AND SUE BURTON Virtual poetry reading hosted by Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord. Thurs., Jan. 20, 7 p.m. Via Zoom. Registration required. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com or call 224-0562.

DOWN CELLAR POETRY SALON Poetry event series presented by the Poetry Society of New Hampshire. Monthly. First Sunday. Visit poetrysocietynh.wordpress.com.

Book Clubs

BOOKERY Online. Monthly. Third Thursday, 6 p.m. Bookstore based in Manchester. Visit bookerymht.com/online-book-club or call 836-6600.

GIBSON’S BOOKSTORE Online, via Zoom. Monthly. First Monday, 5:30 p.m. Bookstore based in Concord. Visit gibsonsbookstore.com/gibsons-book-club-2020-2021 or call 224-0562.

TO SHARE BREWING CO. 720 Union St., Manchester. Monthly. Second Thursday, 6 p.m. RSVP required. Visit tosharebrewing.com or call 836-6947.

GOFFSTOWN PUBLIC LIBRARY 2 High St., Goffstown. Monthly. Third Wednesday, 1:30 p.m. Call 497-2102, email elizabethw@goffstownlibrary.com or visit goffstownlibrary.com

BELKNAP MILL Online. Monthly. Last Wednesday, 6 p.m. Based in Laconia. Email bookclub@belknapmill.org.

NASHUA PUBLIC LIBRARY Online. Monthly. Second Friday, 3 p.m. Call 589-4611, email information@nashualibrary.org or visit nashualibrary.org.

Language

FRENCH LANGUAGE AND LITERATURE CLASSES

Offered remotely by the Franco-American Centre. Six-week session with classes held Thursdays from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. $225. Visit facnh.com/education or call 623-1093.

Thrill Rides

Skydiving without a plane, surfing the indoor waves and other ways to get outside your comfort zone.

Looking for adventure? This week, our reporters go outside their comfort zone to get the thrill of new experiences.

Actually, some of these adventures started way before this week. Matt and Angie first started looking into their subjects way back in early 2020 and this story was slated to run in the issue of March 19, 2020 — an issue which ended up focused on a whole different type of new experience.

But now, nearly two years later, who couldn’t use a little adventure that is purely fun? So this week, Matt Ingersoll brings you skydiving and surfing — without leaving Nashua. Angie Sykeny takes a more daring (and physically challenging) approach to fitness. And Meghan Siegler gets to break stuff.

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT

Indoor skydiving and surfing at Nashua’s SkyVenture

By Matt Ingersoll

I’ve never jumped out of an airplane, nor hung ten on a surfboard — two basic facts about myself that made a trip to SkyVenture NH in Nashua seem fitting for this assignment.

SkyVenture opened in 2006, first offering indoor skydiving before adding indoor surfing in 2013 (under the name Surf’s Up NH). The top of the facility is visible from the bustle of Daniel Webster Highway, and while I had driven by thousands of times but had never set foot inside prior to writing this story, I have to admit that it had always intrigued me.

Owners and founders Laurie and Rob Greer told me their customers are usually one of two significant pools of people — experienced skydivers (or surfers) who are looking to improve their skills, or anyone who has ever been curious about what it’s like to try either one. I’m in the latter. I grew up always being around the water, and while I don’t exactly love heights, I’d be lying if I said I’ve never wondered what skydiving is like (not enough to actually do it, mind you, but hey, I’m game to try a safe, not-so-far-from-the-ground simulated version).

A wave of nervous excitement passed through me as I arrived in early March 2020 to try out skydiving and surfing. The staff highly recommends booking your sessions in advance, due to the time slots filling up fast, and also asks that you show up at least 30 to 45 minutes beforehand to complete a preliminary safety class.

When I reported to the front desk, I was directed to a series of touch-screen tablets mounted in the lobby, where all participants must sign a waiver (or, if you’re under 18, the parents of the child sign it). For safety reasons, there actually are a fair number of restrictions for both skydiving and surfing. For example, you must weigh under 250 pounds to skydive (275 pounds to surf), you must not be under the influence of any drugs or alcohol, and you must not be pregnant — none of which disqualified me. There is an additional attraction next to the wave machine called the “fish pipe,” or a large rotating barrel you climb into that simulates the feeling of a very fast and endless water slide. Because of the motion associated with it, the fish pipe is not an activity for people with high blood pressure, prior head injuries or epilepsy. This is all part of the waiver that customers need to read carefully before they can participate.

Sky high

After I signed the waiver, I headed upstairs for my skydiving session, which began with the safety class. It was here where I met Kevin Drivas, my instructor, who has more than a decade of skydiving experience (you know, the real, jump-out-of-an-airplane kind) to his credit.

Drivas explained to me that because he and I wouldn’t be able to hear each other over the sound of the wind in the tunnel, we would communicate with each other through a few hand signals. If I forgot the signals, a teleprompter was also there to provide instructions during my flight. Drivas then demonstrated the way I should position my body as I entered the tunnel — holding both arms out in front of me, with my hands flat and my legs straight. It was also important that I not jump into the wind tunnel, but rather slowly lean into it as I let the force of the wind carry me up.

Because I was the only one participating for this particular session, the class only took a few minutes before it was time to get into my “skydiving” gear. Drivas handed me a pair each of elbow and knee pads that I dutifully put on, followed by laced sneakers, a heavy purple and black jumpsuit that I comfortably wore over my clothes, a helmet, a pair of safety goggles that replaced my glasses, and a pair of earplugs. I was ready to learn how to fly.

I followed Drivas a few feet away to the enclosed wind tunnel, and that was when that wave of nerves rose in my stomach again. I think it was the fact that I wasn’t going to be attached to any harness or mechanism that made me the most nervous — just suspended literally in midair inside a 40-foot tunnel by recirculatory winds rushing at more than 100 miles per hour. According to the Greers, professional skydivers must train in an indoor facility such as this one to prepare for competitions, so I think it was that fact in and of itself that racked my nerves a bit.

Insert the cliched phrase “don’t look down,” as that definitely applied here. I found myself actively trying not to do just that as I leaned into the rushing air with my arms out in front of me.

A split second later, I felt my body rising until suddenly my feet were off the ground. I felt Drivas’s hands around my torso as he steered me to the center of the wind tunnel.

Now admittedly, it took a few tries before Drivas could let go of me completely. He would later tell me that this was due to my nerves kicking into overdrive the second I entered the tunnel. He gave me the hand signal to straighten my legs, but for some reason my brain thought this meant I had to also keep them together, causing my whole body to flip until I was on my back like a turtle on its shell. Another hand signal required me to relax my arms, but I was applying so much tension that they were almost stonelike when Drivas attempted to move them. Because of this, the first two times I entered the tunnel, I had to exit a few seconds later.

But you know what they say — third time’s a charm. Somehow, it just clicked for me after that. With my legs straight and my arms up over my head, Drivas was eventually able to get me into a neutral body position inside the tunnel before releasing me. I was flying on my own (albeit for just a few seconds)! It really did feel more like a sensation of floating, rather than free falling. I felt weightless as the wind furiously blew against my face and body, letting it just carry me.

During the last few seconds of my flight, Drivas held on to me again and the air tunnel controller revved up the speed, causing both of us to float even higher up to the top of the wind chamber. Remember that scene in Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory when Charlie Bucket and his Grandpa Joe start to float after trying the Fizzy Lifting Drinks? That’s what it reminded me of (except there was no exhaust fan at the top and we didn’t have to burp our way down, of course).

This was the longest duration of time I was in the wind tunnel, so when I was guided out for the last time, I immediately noticed how dry my mouth was and how out of breath I quickly became. Video of my ascent was captured on a nearby television monitor, and it wasn’t until I viewed it just then that I realized how high I had actually gone up — let’s just say a scary height.

As I began to take off my gear, Drivas reentered the wind tunnel for a little demo. Within a few seconds, he was doing front flips and backflips in midair like it was second nature to him. Watching him do tricks inside the wind tunnel was, quite honestly, almost as much fun as going in there myself.

Surf’s up

My skydiving session over, I went back down the stairs into the lobby and through a door on the opposite end to the SurfStream wave machine. After changing into my swimsuit and packing my belongings in a locker, I met with Danny Hyatt and Dave Cormier, two of the surfing instructors.

Hyatt asked me if I had ever surfed in the ocean before, and when I answered “no,” his response was “that’s good,” the reason being that, while the Surfstream is designed to make numerous types of waves, it’s not exactly the same as surfing a natural ocean wave. In the words of Hyatt, whose uncle taught him to surf out on the waters of Hampton Beach when he was a child, “in the ocean you ride the wave, but here, the wave rides you.” I understood what he meant once I climbed on my board for the first time. Unlike the ocean, where you’re waiting for a wave to form, the SurfStream requires you surf on a wave of already flowing water, making your stance and weight distribution on the surfboard that much more critical. Hyatt also demonstrated the way I should position myself when I fall off the board, by crossing my arms over my chest in an “X,” and with my fingertips touching my shoulders once I knew I would be going down.

Matt Ingersoll gets a little support from instructor Danny Hyatt. Photo courtesy of SkyVenture NH.

Just like for my skydiving experience, I put on a helmet, elbow pads and knee pads. While I was getting prepared, Hyatt and Cormier queued up the SurfStream, and that filled up with rushing water within seconds. According to the Greers, it’s the first machine of its kind to be available in North America and the largest in the world, moving 240,000 gallons of water in a minute. It also has several different settings, accommodating everything from boogie boarding to wakesurfing.

When I was ready to hit the water, I followed Hyatt and Cormier to one side of the Surfstream. Cormier placed my surfboard flat onto the water while Hyatt took his own board out on the waves next to it. My task would be to place my feet onto the board, take Hyatt by the arms and pull myself up to a standing position. He would then guide me out to the middle of the Surfstream and let go of each arm one at a time while I attempted to balance on the waves.

Maybe I just don’t have the greatest sense of balance, but this turned out to be quite a difficult undertaking. The first time I got on the board, I was able to stay on it for about 30 seconds before wiping out (almost taking Hyatt down with me in the process). I immediately realized just how important the placement of each foot on the board really was.

Despite the shallow water levels, falling off the board really didn’t hurt much at all as long as you followed the instructions. I will say, though, that every time I did fall, I increasingly became more and more determined to get out there on my own hands-free (only to fall again). Let’s just say the instructors made it look so much easier than it really was.

My session was 15 minutes total, with the ability to divide that time up in order to try out different settings on the Surfstream. That doesn’t sound like a ton of time, but it actually does afford you quite a bit of opportunities to master balancing yourself on the board.

I decided to try boogie boarding and, as it turned out, even that required a little bit of skill and balance. Getting into the water was the most difficult part (it felt as though I was preparing to jump into a pool from a high diving board). Once I was in, Hyatt and Cormier taught me to firmly grip the boogie board and simply move from one side to the other by leaning into the water and putting more weight on that side. It proved to be an effective way to maneuver around, but trying to stay on the board was still a challenge.

I got to watch the pros in action once again after my session ended. The most important thing I learned from them? Remember to relax and breathe. Too often when I tried to balance on the surfboard, I did not focus on my breathing when I should have, causing my body to tense up.

I knew before my SkyVenture visit was over that I had to try the fish pipe (which, according to the website, is currently not running). I followed Cormier to the large rotating barrel in the back corner of the room, where he began to get it ready for me by checking the air and adding several gallons of water. As he did so, he explained that the barrel spins for 90 seconds, gradually getting faster before reaching a maximum speed of just under 20 miles per hour. You can choose to either stand or sit, but running on foot for the entire 90 seconds is much easier said than done.

When the fish pipe began spinning, I was able to stay standing for all of about three seconds before falling (it gets extremely slippery once the water has time to travel up and down the sides). By the time I attempted to get back up, the fish pipe had already started moving so fast that I could barely move on my own beyond a sitting position. Picture going down one of those extremely steep water slides you might have encountered if you visited a water park last summer — that’s what this was like, but with the added effect of constant rotation, making me feel dizzy but also extremely exhilarated once it stopped.

Adventure recap

My visit winding down, I reentered the lobby after changing back into my regular clothes. Everyone’s skydiving and surfing experiences are captured in the form of photos and videos that are available for purchase once you finish. Using the same tablets I signed my waivers on, I was able to get everything sent to my email with the help of the front desk staff.

Would I try any one of these activities again? Absolutely. Would I recommend indoor skydiving, surfing or fish pipe sliding to my friends or anyone looking to “jump” outside their comfort zone? You bet. Both were much more difficult than I was anticipating, but I never felt like I wanted to give up trying to balance on the surfboard, nor did I ever feel too terrified of heights to get back into the wind tunnel. As Drivas told me: “If you’re thinking about doing it, then do it.”

SkyVenture New Hampshire

Where: 100 Adventure Way, Nashua (formerly 3 Poisson Ave.)
Hours: Current hours are Wednesday through Friday, 2 to 8 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., for both skydiving and surfing (the fish pipe is currently not running). Reservations for all activities are highly recommended; call or book online
Cost: Rates vary depending on which activity you want to do and for how long, but generally will start at $55 per two-minute skydiving session and $45 per 15-minute surfing session.
More info: Visit skyventurenh.com, follow them on Facebook and Instagram @skyventure and @surfsupnh, or call 897-0002

ALL THE RAGE

Emotions and breakables fly at Rage Cage NH

By Meghan Siegler

Going to Rage Cage NH in Nashua for this story was not my idea. Two coworkers, separately, emailed me links for the place and somewhat emphatically suggested that I go. I’m not sure what that says about me, but I was game.

I was nervous but not especially angry when I walked into the Rage Cage, and I wondered how my rage session would go sans rage. As it turns out, smashing stuff is fun even if you’re not particularly upset.

But for people like me, who come in without a specific thing to rage about, owner Tedd Cherry said he’s found that it’s not all that hard to coax out some emotions.

“I kind of try to break people down psychologically when they come in,” he said. “We really want people to stop masking [their emotions].”

Perhaps because I was writing a story about my experience, Tedd didn’t mess with my head (next time, Tedd, next time). He said he likes to get a feel for where people are at as he’s explaining what they’ll be doing, and he has no problem swearing to see if anyone is offended. I brought my son Ben with me; he’s 16 (the minimum age allowed to rage), and the first time Tedd swore he checked in to make sure we were OK with it. (We were.)

Tedd clearly loves his job and is excited about the psychological benefits it offers. It’s a healthy way to deal with negative emotions, he said, a better alternative to alcohol or drugs or physical violence. He’s had people come in after break-ups and bad days at work, and people who just need to let out long pent-up emotions.

His enthusiasm was contagious. I will admit that I was a little sketched out when we first got to the Rage Cage; the space is located in a building on West Hollis Street, and when you open the door you walk into a large room that’s pretty dark and filled with, well, trash that’s waiting to be destroyed. But Tedd apologized and said it was a bit messier than usual, with inventory waiting to be put away.

Meghan Siegler at Rage Cage NH. Courtesy photo.

“We’ve grown so fast that I’m having trouble keeping up with it,” Tedd said — he just opened in February and the response has been good. “I think the pandemic helped us quite a bit.”

To get us started, Tedd had us sign waivers, because of course there are waivers — you’re using bats and sledgehammers to destroy breakables and furniture in a small enclosed room. He then gave us a list with the number of items we could pick from various size categories; the number and sizes depend on the package you choose. There’s a whole wall of shelves, many of which are filled with glass: bottles, vases, drinking glasses. He said that three weeks ago he bought 17,000 pounds of glass, and at that point there was only about 2,000 pounds left. There were also small appliances, dishes, furniture and computer monitors, much of which he gets from thrift stores and nonprofits. For Ben and me, Tedd picked a variety of items for us, but typically he has people choose their own stuff so they can have some kind of emotional connection to it — say, a person who is frustrated with their desk job might find it freeing to smash a monitor with a baseball bat.

While Tedd filled a shopping cart with junk, Ben and I put on our safety suits, gloves and helmets, then headed into the “cage,” a small room with concrete walls and floors and just enough room for the two of us to take turns raging without worrying too much about getting hit with flying debris. We let Tedd choose the music — he likes to give customers options, from death metal to mildly scream-y. Ben and I couldn’t think of any good mad music, but Tedd is a pro and picked the perfect mix of loud, angry, but not obnoxious music.

Here’s my takeaway: Throwing glass at walls is fun. Beating a chair to smithereens with a baseball bat is extremely satisfying. Smashing computer screens is something most of us have wanted to do from time to time, and it feels good. Wielding a sledgehammer feels powerful. And watching my incredibly chill son show some aggression was pretty amusing.

I would love to go back when I truly need to let off some steam. I very much enjoyed all the smashing, but I was more worried about writing the story and taking pictures (which I did a terrible job of) than fully giving myself up to the experience the way I would if I went there specifically to release some frustration. I feel like it could save me from some serious yelling when my 13-year-old daughter is determined to break me down with her eye rolls and attitude.

Rage Cage NH

Where: 10 West Hollis St., Nashua
Hours: noon to 9 p.m. Thursdays and Fridays and 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays
Cost: Prices vary depending on the number of people, amount of time in the smash room and the number and size of items you want to smash. For example, “The Quickie” 20-minute smash session is $20 while the “Ultimate Showdown” for four people for an hour is $130, with several options in between. Glow smash is also available.

Paint a mess!

Rage Cage NH also features a soon-to-be-expanded paint splatter room that’s open to all ages — and every Thursday is kids’ day where the vibe changes from heavy metal to a little more mellow. Have a glow paint party with ultraviolet black lights, bubble and fog machines and whatever music you want for $25 per person for an hour, with up to eight people per party allowed in the current space. A regular paint splatter party without the glow is $15 per person. Rage Cage NH will be open during school vacation week for paint splatter only, Dec. 21 through Dec. 23 and Dec. 28 through Dec. 30.

GO FOR A SPIN

Get fit, have fun with pole dancing classes

By Angie Sykeny

As an on-again off-again fitness enthusiast who gets bored easily, I have been-there done-that with a variety of group fitness classes and physical activities, from my humble beginnings following the same 2003 Tae Bo workout DVD in my living room to my experimental phase in college attempting ballet and Taekwondo, and finally to a series of trendier classes offered at my gym, like Zumba, BODYPUMP and Pilates.

In early 2020, I reached out to Juel Sheridan, owner and instructor at New Perspectives Pole and Aerial, which offers numerous pole fitness and pole dancing classes for all experience levels, as well as aerial, lyra (aerial hoop) and trapeze classes. At the time, the studio was located in a small space in Manchester’s Millyard and had six chrome poles.

In a recent conversation I had with Juel over the phone, she told me New Perspectives has moved to a larger studio in Hooksett to allow for social distancing. The new studio has two class spaces, with seven poles in each, including a few stainless steel poles to accommodate people with an allergy to chrome.

“It’s more spread out and open by design,” she said. “We can fit more people — we can run two classes at the same time — but even with more people, there’s more space, so people can feel safer when they come in.”

When I reached out back in 2020, I asked Juel if she had any open spots for the Intro to Pole class. She said the classes had been nearly booked up for about a month but she could squeeze me into a Monday morning session.

Everything needed for the class — mats, spray bottles, rags — is supplied at the studio. No special apparel is necessary; “anything you would wear to the gym” is fine, Juel said.

Angie Sykeny. Courtesy photo.

It had been a while since my activewear drawer had seen the light of day, but I managed to dig out a loose athletic top and some workout leggings that still fit and headed to the studio.

As soon as I walked in and introduced myself to Juel, she had me fill out a short form with some basic information about myself and an emergency contact.

Four other people showed up, all of whom appeared to have been there before and knew the ropes. I followed their lead and made my way from the reception area to the main floor, where the poles were. I had a small moment of panic after the back row of poles was quickly occupied. “You only live once,” I thought, reassuring myself as I timidly claimed the front-and-center pole.

At the start of the class, we each grabbed a mat and laid it down next to our pole. Juel led us in some simple stretches for around five minutes; then we rolled up the mats and took to the poles.

Over the course of the hour-long session, Juel demonstrated and had us mirror various movements based around the pole. The skills involved in performing those movements consisted mostly of footwork, hand positioning and a correct distribution of body weight. We learned different ways of gripping the pole with our hands, hooking our legs around the pole and engaging our core to generate enough momentum to complete a full spin — ideally, multiple spins — around the pole.

We would practice a series of three or four different movements, and then Juel would show us how to use transitions to string the movements together into one sequence. It took me many repetitions before I was able to carry out a sequence that was even remotely graceful. I shudder to think of how I looked: a befuddled expression on my face, clumsily grappling with the pole and the only person in the class sweating buckets and fighting to catch my breath. I found solace when I scanned the room and realized that everyone was entirely focused on themselves.

After what felt like much longer than an hour, we returned to some stretches to close out the class.

As I reflect on the experience, I’ve come to several conclusions. The first is that, based on the word “intro,” I significantly underestimated how physically demanding the class would be. My muscles were sore for the next three days after the class, which leads me to my second conclusion:

Pole is a comprehensive workout. It works every part of your body, and if you aren’t feeling it during the class, you will undoubtedly feel it the next morning. Lastly, I ask myself if I would take a pole class again, and my answer is, absolutely. Not only is it an effective way to build strength, flexibility and muscle tone, but it’s also fun, and a great option if you’re looking for a fitness class that breaks the mold. With more than a dozen different advanced pole classes offered above the intro class, there is a ton of opportunity for growth, and I believe that for someone with dedication this exercise medium could blossom into a hobby.

Pole and aerial fitness classes

• Aerial Moon Yoga Studio (85 W. Pearl St., Nashua, 321-2275, aerialmoon.com) Aerial yoga.
• Center Stage Fitness & Aerial Arts (2 Paul’s Way, Unit 2, Amherst, 801-3032, centerstagedancefitness.com) Pole and aerial.
• Kama Fitness (250 Commercial St., Suite 3007A, Waumbec Mill, Manchester, 339-8253, kamafitnessnh.com) Aerial and trapeze.
• New Perspectives Pole and Aerial (35 Londonderry Turnpike, Suite GH, Hooksett, 775-3136, newperspectivesnh.com) Aerial, pole and trapeze.

Featured Photo: Hippo reporter Matt Ingersoll gets a feel for skydiving, with a little help from instructor Kevin Drivas. Photo courtesy of SkyVenture NH.

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