Category: Drink

’Tis the season for holiday beers

I used to be obsessed with holiday brews. As in, there wasn’t enough holiday beer in the world to satisfy me.

There was just something about the slightly sweet, slightly spicy style that drew me in and helped me to appreciate the holiday season. Let’s be honest, we’d all like to be in a good mood for the holidays and the right beer can help. Why not have a beer that tastes like Christmas in a glass?

I’m calling it a style but I’m not sure you’ll find “holiday brew” listed in the dictionary of beer styles. To me, these are beers that can run across styles and to categorize them would be to ask yourself, “does this beer put me in the holiday spirit?” If you answer yes to a particular brew, then, bingo.

These are beers that tend to feature a hearty malt character amplified with cinnamon, brown sugar, peppermint, vanilla and nutmeg — and, I don’t know, maybe chocolate. You’ll find holiday beers that are wheat beers, amber lagers, stouts, porters, sours, brown ales, bocks and dunkels, and there is probably some brewer right now trying to offer patrons a holiday IPA.

I wasn’t alone in my obsession. To this day, one of my college buddies receives an annual shipment of Harpoon Winter Warmer from his mother on his doorstep in California.

Then again, holiday beers aren’t for everyone. I can never forget the look of utter disgust — classic bitter beer face — on an acquaintance’s face as he tried to get through a sip of some holiday beer, wondering aloud, “What is that?” (The “that” in holiday beers is always nutmeg.)

I’m not as obsessed with holiday beers as I used to be, probably in part because there’s just so much incredible craft beer available that it’s hard to be too focused on one style, regardless of the season. Plus, more and more craft brewers are cranking out delicious, decadent stouts boasting huge flavors of chocolate, coffee and vanilla that aren’t necessarily holiday brews but are awfully hard to ignore at this time of year.

For a while it at least seemed like craft brewers weren’t really exploring holiday beers in earnest. That might not be reality, but it seems to me the style has received much more attention from brewers in recent years. That’s good news.

Here are four New Hampshire-brewed holiday beers to enjoy right now.

Footy Pajamas Belgian Style Holiday Ale by Henniker Brewing Co. (Henniker)

Dark fruit, spices and brown sugar: you can sip this 8.7 percent ABV brew slowly by the fire and let the beer and the flames warm you right up.

Monks Vice Belgian Quad by Loaded Question Brewing Co. (Portsmouth)

This isn’t brewed specifically for the holidays as far as I know, but with big flavors of complex caramel up front, it seems perfectly suited to this time of year. The brewery says the finish is “reminiscent of crème brulée from black strap molasses.” This is another slow sipper you can savor with friends and family.

Smuttlabs Peppermint Porter by Smuttynose Brewing Co. (Hampton)

This is basically a glass full of peppermint patties.

The Great AK; Dunkles Bock with Gingerbread by Northwoods Brewing Co. (Northwood)

I haven’t tried this one but it is now on my list for the holidays. Tabbed as the brewery’s “ode to the Master Woodsman of the World,” the beer is brewed with gingerbread and actual gingerbread men, resulting in “aromas of dates, plums, toffee and cinnamon.” Frankly, it sounds delicious.

What’s in My Fridge
Samuel Adams Holiday White Ale by Boston Beer Co. (Boston) Probably 15 to 20 years ago, if a beer was described as “citrusy and hazy,” this is what you’d expect. Nowadays, someone says citrusy and hazy, and approximately 1,000 percent of the time that person is talking about an IPA. This is a delightful brew; flavored with holiday spices and orange peel, it has a smooth, festive flavor with borderline nonexistent bitterness you can enjoy all winter long. Cheers.

Featured photo: Footy Pajamas by Henniker Brewing Company. Courtesy photo.

Celebrate with some sparkling wine

As the song goes, it is “the most wonderful time of the year!” as we partake of seemingly endless gatherings, indulging in calorie-laden savories and sweets to bring on those well-intended New Year’s resolutions.

What is the perfect beverage to go with all sorts of food? Bubbles, or more specifically, my favorite — Champagne! There are other sparkling wines, cava from Spain, prosecco from Italy, but Champagne has a well-deserved cache. And thanks to Champagne houses like Mumm, Taittinger, and Moët et Chandon, we can savor sparkling blends made in America in Méthode Traditionnelle manner, that is by double fermentation, at a fraction of the price we pay for imported Champagne. So, when you buy a bottle of Mummthat is produced in Napa, California, the label cannot contain language referring to “Methode Champenoise” as it does on the imported bottle. However, the production is the same.

Champagne can be paired to appetizers, including caviar and moderately spicy Asian food. It is excellent with chicken, seafood (especially oysters or lobster), eggs, hollandaise sauce, foie gras, gravlax and smoked salmon. It is among the most versatile of wines, whether it is brut (dry), demi-sec (sweet) or doux (sweetest). It can be blanc de blanc, made with 100 percent chardonnay grapes, or blanc de noirs, made with 100 percent pinot noir grapes. When preparing carpaccio, very rare beef, ham, prosciutto or rare lamb, a rosé, made with pinot noir and/or pinot meunier grapes, is a tasting adventure not to be missed.

Our first wine is Champagne Pommery Brut Royal, regularly priced at $44.99, on sale at $36.99, at the New Hampshire Liquor and Wine Outlets. Located in Reims, wool trader Alexandre Pommery’s widow, Louise, inaugurated the Champagne house in the mid-19th century. Per the website, she initiated the idea of storing wines in temperature-controlled caves carved from the chalk deposits of the region. An innovator, she created the first brut Champagne in 1874 — a dry version of the wine when Champagnes were largely much sweeter than they are today. A blend of grapes from 40 selected villages in the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims and other areas in the Champagne region, this wine is produced from 35 percent chardonnay, 35 percent pinot noir and 30 percent pinot meunier. Its color is pale gold, with an abundance of tiny bubbles. Its nose is of yellow to green apple, some citrus and vanilla. Its taste is very “fruit-forward” with notes of apple, with a very soft creamy long finish. As a dry wine, it pairs well with appetizers, creamy dishes, seafood and shellfish.

Our second wine is Domaine Carneros Brut, by Taittinger,regularly priced at $29.99, on sale at $25.95, at the New Hampshire Wine & Liquor Outlets. Domaine Carneros was established in 1987 when Claude Taittinger selected a 138-acre parcel in the heart of Carneros, California, to grow and produce a sparkling wine made in the Méthode Traditionelle manner. The winery, pictured on the label, is modeled after the grand châteaux of France. All the wines produced at the winery hail from the Carneros appellation, with 100 percent of the fruit coming from the six estate vineyards of the chateau, now comprising 400 acres.

A blend of 53 percent pinot noir, 44 percent chardonnay and 3 percent pinot gris, this sparkler is aged nearly four years in the bottle. Fruity and balanced in acidity, it offers rich notes of pear, green apple and melon that contrast against notes of praline and toasted almonds.

This holiday season, celebrate with a wine that can traverse all your culinary delights, from appetizers to desserts. Explore this bubbling creation of that Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon. Legend has it that upon his discovery, he was quoted as saying, “Come quickly! I am drinking the stars!” Indeed, he was! And so can you!

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

So you’re finally a full-blown grown-up. Congratulations.

One of the things that comes with that is learning how to give good, thoughtful presents to other full-blown grown-ups. For a lot of us, that leads in one of two directions: gift cards, or something homemade. Gift cards: on the plus side, they’re easy; the minus, they’re expensive and clearly lacking in effort. Something homemade: on the plus side, it’s thoughtful and offers a chance to show off; the minus, there is no chance you’ll be able to learn to knit in the next week.

Here are some suggestions for easy, cocktail-centric, homemade gifts that will hint that you might have hidden depths:

Infused alcohols

This is where the gift-giving process gets budget-friendly. If you are flavoring alcohol with strong flavors, you don’t want to use expensive booze; any subtleties in the base liquor will be covered up. You probably don’t want to use the absolute cheapest stuff, though, because you might find some off flavors in your final product. I try to steer toward a respectable bottom-shelf vodka or white rum — Mr. Boston, for instance.

Method: The great thing about infusing alcohol is that, at its simplest level — which, let’s face it, is about all you can handle at this point in the year — it is pretty much foolproof. You add a flavorful ingredient to a clear spirit, shake it, then store it in a warm, dark place for a few days, shaking it twice per day. I use the laundry room. Strain and bottle it when it tastes right to you.

Ideas:

• Chocolate Vodka — ½ cup/60 grams cocoa nibs to a 750 ml bottle of vodka. Shake and age for four days.

• Graham Cracker Vodka — Blend 1 sleeve of graham crackers with three cups/710 ml of vodka. Shake and age for seven days.

(These two would make a great matched gift set for making s’mores martinis)

• Jalapeño Rum — 4 spicy jalapeños to one liter of white rum. Shake and age for four days, then taste each day until it is flavorful and spicy enough for your Auntie’s taste.

• Banana Rum — Muddle a very ripe banana, the type you find next to the cash register at a convenience store, with two cups/475 ml white rum. Shake and age for a week.

• Cardamom Vodka — ½ ounce/14 grams lightly crushed cardamom pods to 1½ cups/350 ml vodka. Shake and age for 12 hours. This is delicious but potent. Give in very small bottles with instructions to use judiciously.

•Basil/Fresno Vodka — 3 chopped Fresno chilies (~50 grams) and 20 grams of hand-torn basil leaves to 1¼ cups/300 ml vodka. Shake and age for four days. (Excellent for bloody marys.)

Fruit syrups

Method: Heat equal amounts of frozen fruit and white sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Use frozen fruit, because the freezing process produces jagged ice crystals that poke holes in the cell walls of the fruit and help this process along. As the fruit thaws, it will weep juice — far more than you are expecting. (You might want to help the process along with a potato masher.) Bring to a boil. Let the mixture boil for another 10 to 20 seconds to make sure that the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from heat and let everything steep for another half an hour. Strain and bottle. (You might want to put the leftover fruit glop as jam on an English muffin.)

Surprisingly good syrup fruits:

• Cherries, cranberries, rhubarb, cucumbers (yes, really), wild blueberries, honeydew melon, raspberries, strawberries.

Infused syrups

Method: Make a simple syrup (equal parts water and white sugar), and bring to a boil. Remove from heat, add an aromatic ingredient, cover and steep for 30 minutes. Strain and bottle.

“Wait — Can I Put This On Pancakes?” (Yeah, probably.)

Dried hibiscus blossoms, dried jasmine blossoms, dried butterfly sweet pea blossoms (this is a deep blue color, which turns a fantastic shade of violet when combined with citrus juice), whole garam masala, cracked nutmeg, broken cinnamon sticks (steep overnight), lightly crushed coffee beans (steep for a couple of hours).

Also, not for nothin’, but this is the time of year when it’s easy to get down on yourself. Your anxiety will tell you that nobody loves you, your depression will add that you deserve it, and your guilt will tell you that you should be doing much more for other people than you are. My advice to you — and bear in mind that I have the emotional depth of a parking lot puddle — is that you might not be the best judge of your own worth.

You are special and magical and bring joy to people who will never tell you about it, but would miss you like oxygen if you weren’t around. (And if you need help remembering this, reach out to the National Suicide Prevention Hotline at 1-800-273-8255.) The fact that you are thinking about what you can give to others is a good hint that you do have hidden depths.

Featured photo: Cocktail-centric, homemade gifts. Photo by John Fladd.

It’s a magical combination

I go into most weekends with high expectations for my own productivity.

Generally speaking, though, my expectations rarely prove to be anything other than unrealistic. I have visions of yard work, cooking elaborate meals, tackling some long overdue painting, cleaning out the garage and any number of other chores and tasks.

Aside from the fact that my kids have dizzying weekend schedules sending my wife and me criss-crossing town for the bulk of the day, I am also just one person.

By 3:30 p.m. or so most Saturdays or Sundays, I find myself in a familiar spot: tired, maybe a little frustrated and probably stressed — and probably having made minimal progress on my to-do list. A cup of coffee would pick me up but maybe amplify my stress. A beer might nudge me toward completely giving up on my productive goals.

Perhaps I could combine the two? Well, you know, a coffee stout isn’t going to provide a caffeine boost but a slow-sipping brew featuring big notes of roasted coffee and dark chocolate might be just what the doctor ordered for easing frustration, while still allowing some modicum of productivity. Or maybe I just have a never-ending ability to find ways to justify having a beer?

I’ve written about coffee stouts and porters before and I’ll write about them again. These beers are like a coffee drinker’s dream: smooth, creamy brews boasting rich flavors of decadent coffee. And, might I add, it’s the perfect time of year to explore darker beers. Picture yourself spending the day Christmas shopping and running holiday-related errands, and then turning to a deliciously smooth coffee-flavored brew as you shake off the edginess from navigating holiday crowds.

In the age of buying local, brewers are more and more turning to local coffee roasters to flavor their coffee brews as well, which is a great touch resulting in unique, flavorful beers. And you can feel good about supporting your local economy.

Thankfully, craft brewers have fully embraced this style. Here are five coffee stouts and porters from the region to help you get through this busy and hopefully somewhat productive month.

Java Roots by Granite Roots Brewing (Troy)

This is just a coffee and chocolate bomb in a smooth, silky package. Granite Roots sources its coffee beans for this brew from Barrington Coffee Roasting Co., which is based in western Massachusetts. A perfect iteration of the coffee stout.

Gunner’s Daughter with Coffee by Mast Landing Brewing Co. (Westbrook, Maine)

The original Gunner’s Daughter boasts huge notes of peanut butter, chocolate and coffee and the “with Coffee” version — you guessed it — features an even bigger coffee presence. Decadent doesn’t seem to cover this beer. This is dessert in a glass.

Gepetto by Schilling Beer Co. (Littleton)

The brewery makes the late addition of whole-bean coffee in this brew, which results in a slightly sweet brew that features not only coffee but also sweet chocolate and marshmallow. It’s kind of like drinking a glass of coffee milk, which my mother reminded me was my favorite childhood drink.

Velvet Moon by Mighty Squirrel Brewing Brewing Co. (Waltham, Mass.)

This brew is especially smooth and creamy and relies on a blend of Honduran, Nicaraguan and Ethiopian beans from Atomic Coffee Roasters for its unique, amplified coffee flavor. This one hits you with waves of coffee.

Coffee Cake Porter by 603 Brewery (Londonderry)

While this has plenty of rich coffee flavor, this brew goes beyond that with coffee flavors complemented by notes of vanilla, cinnamon and a little smokiness. This is perfect for the holiday season.

What’s in My Fridge
Samuel Adams Old Fezziwig by Boston Beer Co. (Boston)
This is such a nostalgic choice for me, as I have many memories of enjoying this brew during holiday get-togethers. What I like about this brew is that it does have a little holiday sweetness and spice, but it’s not overpowering. This is quite drinkable, while still feeling like you’ve captured the holiday season in a glass. Cheers!

Featured photo: Coffee and beer together as one. Courtesy photo.

Wine to serve, gift and save

The holiday season is upon us, a time to gather with family and friends around a tree with a dinner table laden with a lavish assortment of food and special wines.

I have selected three wines to give, receive and possibly store for the future. These wines are more than appropriate for the hearty fare, the endless buffets, the snowy evenings. A gift of one, or all, of these wines to someone special to you not only enforces your love and caring for them, but also exhibits your exceptional knowledge and taste in wine.

If you are lucky enough to receive one, or all, of these wines and are not ready to open them on the spot, what do you do with them? Long after you have drafted your last thank-you note, you may have one or several of these superb wines nearby, and you may be wondering, “How do I store these for the short, or perhaps long, period of time before I open the sangiovese for a rich Italian meal of pasta in a red meat sauce, or the red Bordeaux alongside a roast duck, or the ‘Cadillac’ Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon accompanying a thick grilled steak with bearnaise sauce?”

First, even though the New Hampshire State Liquor & Wine Outlets have their retail inventory standing up, do not store your wine standing up! Exception: Fortified wines like ports and sherries can and should be stored standing up. The corks in wine bottles need to be kept wet. Second, find a location in your house or apartment that is dark and has a comfortable to cool temperature, without drastic swings. If you have a basement (or a part of it) that can maintain 55 degrees and 60 percent humidity, take advantage of it. That is the ideal temperature and humidity for the long storage of reds that age well. You will likely not keep your wines for decades, so the perfect temperature and humidity is not a requirement; however, the control of humidity is important, and if it falls below 50 percent corks tend to dry out. When you open a bottle of red and the wine has begun to creep up the sides of the cork, it may be likely due to storage in an environment of low humidity.

Our first holiday gift wine, the 2013 Petroni Estate Sangiovese Poggio Alla Pietra (originally priced at $74.99 at New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, reduced to $32.99), hails from the Moon Mountain District of Sonoma County. Grown throughout Italy, this grape is well suited to the steep and arid soils of the south-facing Petroni Vineyards. This wine is made in the style of brunello, the coveted wine of Tuscany. With a deep red color and notes of red cherries, along with some leather from the barrel aging in new French oak, this is an ideal wine to pair with a rich red pasta dish or game, like venison. This wine needs to be decanted or opened at least an hour before serving.

Our second wine, the 2016 Château La Gorre Cru Bourgeois Médoc (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally priced at $49.99, reduced to $23.99), hails from where else but Bordeaux, France. It is a classic blend of 60 percent merlot, 35 percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent petit verdot. This is an outstanding value, as similar wines cost upwards of $50 a bottle. With a deep ruby color and silky notes of cassis, blackberry and plum joined by the oak from barrel aging, this is an ideal wine to pair with beef or to accompany a roast leg of lamb or casserole after decanting.

Our third wine brings us back to the Napa Valley of California. The 2015 Stewart Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally priced at $69.99, reduced to $34.99) has deep red-purple color. I call this wine a “100 percent Cadillac Cab” as it has a thick, fruity mouthfeel. It is rich in black currants and blackberries to the nose and taste, and has medium tannins, perfect for that porterhouse steak!

These are impressive wines with subtle but distinctive differences, one to the other, to pass on to a good friend or family member, or to simply treat yourself, purchase and store for a couple of years to enjoy at future holiday seasons.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

A palate-cleanser

This is your first big, blow-out meal of the decade. You’ve been locked away for two years and you fully intend to throw yourself into everything Thanksgivingy.

But, if you’re going to eat cheese and snack mix and olives and pigs-in-blankets before dinner, while simultaneously avoiding getting sucked into your brother-in-law’s conspiracy theories, you’re going to have to be light on your feet.

Then comes turkey and stuffing and far, far too many mashed potatoes. You can’t afford to get bogged down with something heavy. You need something light and fascinating to keep you light and fascinating.

Elderflower Collins

1½ ounces gin
½ ounce St. Germain – a sweet elderflower liqueur
1½ teaspoons absinthe
½ ounce fresh lemon juice
Seltzer – I like Topo Chico; it’s aggressively bubbly

Combine everything but the seltzer in a cocktail shaker with ice and shake thoroughly.
Strain into a Collins glass with 2 or 3 ice cubes.
Mix 50/50 with seltzer and stir gently.

On first sip, you might be forgiven for asking yourself if this is too light. Then, you’ll remember the fascinating part. Although there is very little absinthe in this drink, it pushes its way confidently to the front of your attention. The gin brings a clean, bracing quality, which is rounded out by the gentle sweetness of the elderflower liqueur. If you’ve ever heard a drink described as “dancing on your tongue,” this is what they were talking about.

This is a drink that will help you go the distance.

Full-blown decadence

You’ve been stuck in your house, listening to Baby Shark on repeat since Valentine’s Day two years ago. This is Thanksgiving. You’re going to start drinking during the parade and drown out your mother’s parenting advice with the sound of your slurping.

This is pretty much the richest, most wanton excuse for a cocktail that you are likely to have had in the past 22 months. It has bourbon, cream, port, An Egg Yolk, and Absinthe for crying out loud. Do it.

New York Flip

1½ ounces bourbon
¾ ounce tawny port
¼ ounce nutmeg syrup (see below)
¾ ounce half & half
1 egg yolk

Dry shake all the ingredients in a cocktail shaker — this means without ice. (Trust me, you really, really want to mix the egg yolk thoroughly with the other ingredients before introducing it to ice.) Shake it for at least 30 seconds.
Add ice, then shake for another 30 seconds or more.
Strain into a coupé glass.

Decadent as it is, this cocktail isn’t all that alcohol-heavy. There is a modest amount of bourbon, but bourbon always tastes a little boozier than it actually is. The tawny port adds a touch of sweetness that builds on the nutmeg syrup. The cream and egg yolk are there to fortify everything and hum Victorian holiday songs in the background.

Nutmeg Syrup

¾ cup white sugar
¾ cup water
2 whole nutmegs

Using a mortar and pestle — or alternatively a tea towel and a hammer — break the nutmegs into medium-sized pieces, about the size of roughly chopped nuts.
Bring all ingredients to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Let the solution boil for 10 to 20 seconds, to make sure the sugar is completely dissolved.
Remove from heat and let the syrup steep for 30 minutes.

Strain and bottle. This should last at least a month in your refrigerator. It is appallingly good.

Featured photo: Elderflower Collins. Photo by John Fladd.