The Chestnut Club

This column is an intervention for my editor and her aversion to a certain liqueur.

We Americans don’t deal well with bitterness.

The taste of bitter things, that is. We are fine with it as a character trait, but bitter tastes have a steep acceptance curve for us. Other cultures are much more accommodating to it. The Chinese concept of candy is more likely to be bitter than sweet. The British brew beers and ales that would make an American face collapse in on itself. But offer one of us an oil-cured black olive (the best kind of olive, by the way), and most of us will shrink back in horror.

“But, but that tastes like … leather!”

Yes. Yes, it does.

And this aversion makes a certain amount of sense, evolutionarily speaking. Long ago, we developed the ability to taste bitter things to help us avoid toxins in the wild. If a new berry or caterpillar tasted astringent or bitter, our ancestors knew to spit it out. But that logic breaks down in our modern world. There are huge numbers of us — granted, not so much in New Hampshire — who challenge ourselves to eat the spiciest foods we can stand. Sweating and gasping until we feel light-headed from a literal pain response? Fine. Bitterness? “What? Are you CRAZY?”

Intellectually, we accept that delicious, well-nuanced foods need a mixture of basic flavors. Bake a batch of cookies without salt, and they will just taste wrong. We love sweet-and-sour pork and chocolate-covered pretzels. Bitterness has a place at the table.

Which brings us to Campari.

Campari is a bright red, extremely bitter liqueur from Italy. You have seen it at the liquor store, or behind the bar at most upscale joints, but probably don’t have any around your house. It is the dominant ingredient in a Negroni.

To be fair, it is not universally loved. Some cynical critics have referred to it as “The Raisins of Booze.” [Editor’s note: As in “Why are there raisins in this cookie? This did not need raisins,” but with an otherwise perfectly good cocktail and Campari.] And yet, the fact remains that it is one of the best complementary counterbalances to sweet juices or syrups in mixed drinks. It is a team player; nobody is going to drink a glass of the stuff.

Actually, hold that thought.

Sound of footsteps going into the kitchen, various bartendy sounds, a brief moment of silence, then a gasp of shock and the sound of a tiny glass hitting the floor. More footsteps returning.

Yeah. I can’t recommend that.

BUT, I stand by my assertion that Campari deserves the space on your shelf where you are keeping that bottle of Crystal Head vodka that you bought on a whim that time and can’t bring yourself to open. (Open it and drink it, already. It’s vodka. It tastes like vodka.)

A case in point is a classic drink — the Chestnut Club (sometimes known as the Chestnut Cup), a modern classic developed in a California restaurant of the same name. It balances sweetness in the form of orgeat (an almond-infused syrup pronounced “or-szott”, as in, “It is unclear at this time whether the victim was stabbed or shot”), astringency from gin, sourness from lemon juice, and, of course, bitterness from Campari.

Chestnut Club

2 ounces gin (lately I like Death’s Door, out of Wisconsin.)

2 ounces Campari (Yes. Do it. God hates a coward.)

2 ounces fresh squeezed lemon juice

1 ounce orgeat

1. Combine all ingredients with 4 or 5 ice cubes in a shaker.

2. Shake until it is very cold — at least until condensation forms on the outside of the shaker.

3. Pour, without straining, into a rocks glass.

4. Drink sincerely, without irony, and, if possible, while sitting in a leather chair in an oak-paneled library with a taxidermied tiger head on the wall.

This drink is delicious. The flavor comes in waves. You really can taste each individual ingredient. It implies fruitiness, without actually embracing a Tiki mandate. It feels as if it should be too sweet and frivolous to take seriously, but it’s not.

Do you know why?

Campari, people.

Featured photo: Chestnut Club. Photo by John Fladd.

Back of the fridge

What’s lurking behind the milk?

Do you ever just do a deep dive into your fridge? It’s full of surprises.

That tub of “homemade” tartar sauce from that time you made fish and chips back in ’18. A mystery plastic container full of a thick, black liquid that smells like soy sauce and other less definable stuff. Or a bottle of Worcestershire sauce that’s been in there for who knows how long.

The same thing happens with beer; sometimes, brews just get lost in there.

I opened my beer fridge in the basement, which is a perfect replica of the tiny fridge I had in my college dorm room, and discovered I was getting down to the bottom of the barrel, so to speak.

There were a number of seasonal brews that weren’t in season — at least not this year. There was a canned, ready-to-drink “Bellini” cocktail, several of my wife’s hard seltzers and just a bunch of other really, really random offerings. And also a Founder’s KBS? None of it made sense.

It made me think of the Saturday Night Live digital short with Bill Burr where he’s “sampling” Sam Adams Jack-O Pumpkin Ale and says, “This is the kind of beer somebody brings to a party at your house, and then it just sits in the fridge for, like, eight months….”

We all have those beers in our fridge, and sometimes those beers we’ve been passing over for months can pleasantly surprise you.

Here are three back-of-the-fridge beers that I ended up enjoying.

Merry Monks Belgian Style Tripel Ale by Weyerbacher Brewing Co. (Easton, Pa.)

I don’t know why I held off on drinking this one for so long and I don’t even want to think about how long this one has been in my fridge. I like Belgian tripels a lot so there was no real excuse for it but there’s just something about the labeling on this brew that made it really hard for me to take it seriously: There’s a couple of, you guessed it, monks carrying a barrel, and, I don’t know, you’ll have to make your own call. But I finally dove in and regretted waiting so long to get after this one. It’s incredibly flavorful — fruity, spicy, sweet and well-balanced, and full of warming alcohol. This style is just kind of exciting. This was perfect on a very chilly early spring day.

Blood Orange Wheat by Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers (Framingham, Mass.)

Crisp, refreshing and not overly “wheaty,” this is an excellent choice for a warmer day. I think I was scared of the blood orange but I needn’t have been; while you can definitely pick up the citrusy sweetness from the orange, it’s not overwhelming. I am still, admittedly, fearful of this style because I might have had too many Blue Moons back in college, if I’m being honest. This is clean, bright and easy.

Flannel Friday by Harpoon (Boston)

This is another one that has had a remarkable hold on the back of my fridge. This beer is entirely inoffensive. It’s a little hoppy but it’s got a little malt character too that catches you by surprise. This is like the coming together of a pale ale and maybe a red ale? You get some citrusy zip from the hops and then maybe a little caramel from the malts — not bad at all.

What’s in My Fridge
Weekend Plans by Mast Landing Brewing Co. (Portland, Maine)

“Oh yeah” was the first thing I said after taking a sip of this one. IPAs abound these days, as we all know, so when you grab one that jumps out at you as fantastic, you remember it. Mast Landing continues to grow on me with its array of quality offerings from stouts to IPAs. This is hazy and juicy and so easy to drink it’s full-on scary. It seems crazy-talk to refer to a single brew as the perfect IPA, but that declaration rang awfully true as I enjoyed this one on a relaxing late March Saturday afternoon with friends. Cheers!

Featured photo: Blood Orange Wheat by Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers. Photo courtesy of Jeff Mucciarone.

Plant now, eat later

What to start growing this spring so you can feast this summer

If you want to enjoy garden-fresh fruits and veggies from your own backyard, now is the time to plant them. Local horticulture experts shared some tips on how to get your plants in the ground, care for them while they grow and harvest them when the time is right. And, if you need some inspiration for how to use your homegrown bounty in the kitchen, there’s some cooking tips and recipes to get you started.

Beets

Plant now: “Beets are a hardy crop and easy to plant,” Erler said. They can be sown from seed outside, even before the last frost. Plant the seeds around an inch deep, allowing for at least a couple of inches between each plant and around a foot between each row.

Watch them grow: Beets like a well-draining, sandy soil, Erler said, and a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight. Water the plant lightly, keeping the top inch of soil evenly and consistently moist.

Out to harvest: Beets can be harvested after six to eight weeks, ideally no later than June as they don’t grow as well in the summer heat. Use your best judgment, Erler said, and when in doubt, it’s better to harvest them too early than too late. “There’s a point where it will have gotten as big as it’s going to get, and if it sits in the ground too long, [the beets] get kind of tough on the inside,” she said.

Eat later: Beet smoothie

Recipe by Sara Oberle, Nutrition Connections Teacher, and courtesy of UNH Cooperative Extension.

Serving size 1½ cups. Serves two.

1 cup plain yogurt

1 frozen banana, peeled

1/2 medium beet

1 teaspoon fresh ginger

1/2 cup frozen mango

1/2 cup frozen mixed berries (strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries)

1 cup ice cubes

1 cup water

Place all of the ingredients in the order given into a blender and blend until smooth. Pour into a glass and enjoy.

Bell peppers

Plant now: As with tomatoes, you should plant bell peppers indoors if you want to start growing them now.

“Bell peppers take a little bit longer, probably about eight to 10 weeks, to go from seed to transplant,” Bernitz said. “They like very warm soil and warm weather.”

Watch them grow: As long as you give them the light and temperatures they need, Bernitz said peppers are a relatively easy vegetable to grow. As with peas, peppers should not be overfertilized.

“Some varieties of peppers benefit from staking,” he said. “Certain varieties are going to mature quicker than others. … A more advanced technique would be using black plastic mulch, like you might see on a farm. It helps to warm the soil.”

Out to harvest: According to Bernitz, peppers can be picked green and immature as long as they are full-sized and firm. They can be cut from the plant using clippers, scissors, pruners or a sharp knife and will have a short storage life of only one to two weeks.

Eat later: Peppers that are allowed to ripen on the plant, Bernitz said, will be sweeter and more nutritious. You can use them as ingredients in sandwiches or soups, or dice and combine them with tomatoes and other ingredients like garlic, onions and cilantro to create a dipping salsa for tortilla chips.

Carrots

Plant now: Carrots can be sown from seed directly outside. Since carrot seeds are so tiny, it’s easier to just sprinkle the seeds in a row rather than planting individual seeds; you can space them out as they grow, Erler said. “You pull out some of the little baby carrots in between [plants] to make sure they’re properly spaced,” she said. “You’re sacrificing a few, but you’re going to get nice, full-sized carrots.”

Watch them grow: Carrots like a soil that is rich, yet well-draining, such as a loamy soil, Erler said. They need at least six hours of direct sunlight and at least an inch of water per week.

Out to harvest: Carrots can be harvested after eight to 10 weeks, depending on how the tops look. “If that much time has elapsed and the top is really large, it’s probably done all it’s going to do,” Erler said. “You’ll just get diminishing returns if you leave it in longer, like the carrots will get hard and woody.” Ideally, you should be able to pull the carrots out of the soil by hand with little resistance, but you can loosen the surrounding soil with a garden fork if necessary. “Worst-case scenario, the top breaks off when you try to pull it out, and then you’ll just need to grab a tool to dig it out of the ground,” Erler said.

Eat later: Carrot dip

Recipe by Lisa Richards and courtesy of UNH Cooperative Extension.

Serves 6

6 carrots, shredded

1 1/2 cups nonfat yogurt, plain

1 clove of garlic, mashed

1 tablespoon olive oil

Juice from 1/2 a lemon

1/2 teaspoon salt

18 4-inch celery strips

24 cherry tomatoes

Wash, peel and grate carrots. Add garlic, olive oil, lemon juice and salt to yogurt. Stir. Add carrots to yogurt mixture. Mix well. Serve with celery, tomatoes and other vegetables, if desired.

Herbs

Plant now: Some culinary herbs can be planted outdoors now or in the next one to two weeks, while for others you’ll need to wait until steadier warm weather arrives, according to Maria Noel Groves, owner of Wintergreen Botanicals in Allenstown and author of the book Grow Your Own Herbal Remedies. If you’re starting from seeds, you can usually find information on the seed packet on how long it will take the crop to germinate (when the seedling pops out of the soil) and mature (when it’s ready to be harvested). This can take a few weeks to a month, depending on the plant.

Watch them grow: Culinary herbs can be grown and harvested on their own, while some can thrive when paired up with others. Local experts say it all comes down to the ecosystem each one prefers.

“If you’ve got Mediterranean herbs like rosemary and thyme that like lots of sunlight, then they would be OK to go together,” said Jessica LaBrie, owner of Blackbird’s Daughter Botanicals in Barrington and a past president of the New Hampshire Herbal Network. “You might keep herbs that like a lot more watering together, like parsley and dill.”

Thyme and mint, Groves said, are among some of the herbs that can handle a bit of colder temperatures. Others prefer warmer or drier conditions.

“Mediterranean herbs are not going to survive outside right now,” she said. “Rosemary is definitely one of the ones that likes it more dry. Basil likes a hot, rich soil and lots of sun.”

Out to harvest: LaBrie said it’s a good idea to let your plants get established before you begin regularly harvesting —‌ you can usually tell by their smell or their feel.

“With a lot of herbs, if you pinch off the new growth it will grow back even bushier,” she said. “It’s like giving them a little haircut every couple of days.”

Eat later: Groves said she likes to use her herbs in all kinds of ways in the kitchen, from simply adding them to a glass of seltzer water to using them as ingredients in a variety of dishes.

“If I’m making a nice savory breakfast, maybe with eggs, I could have them with basil or sage,” she said. “If we’re making Mexican food, like tacos, then I’ll use a lot of cilantro, oregano and parsley. I also like to do some Korean and Thai-inspired meals like bowls or stir-frys with herbs.”

Kale

Plant now: Kale can be sown from seed outdoors, or it can be started inside and transplanted outdoors after around four weeks, when it gets its first sets of leaves. “Both [ways to plant] are options, but if you plant them directly in the garden they probably aren’t going to get quite as big and are going to take a little longer before you can harvest them [than if you start them indoors],” Earler said.

Watch them grow: Kale “isn’t too fussy” with its growing requirements, Erler said. Just give it a well-draining, sandy soil, at least six hours full sun, and water whenever the soil feels dry. The biggest concern with growing kale, Erler said, is pests, such as cabbage worms, aphids and certain kinds of moths. “You want to make sure you’re looking closely at the plants and scouting for insects often, at least a couple times a week, to make sure that nothing is getting out of hand,” she said. If you do find yourself with an insect problem, she said, consult your local garden store about an insecticide or a row cover.

Out to harvest: “Kale is nice because you can harvest it as you go along,” Erler said. Simply remove the leaves as desired, using a pair of gardening scissors or by twisting them off by hand. Always pick the oldest leaves first, growing from the base of the plant.

Eat later: Kale chips

Recipe by Caitlin Porter and courtesy of UNH Cooperative Extension.

Serves 4.

1 bunch kale, red or curly

1 Tablespoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 Tablespoons Parmesan cheese

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Wash and completely dry kale leaves, remove stems. Tear into medium to large size pieces, place in a medium to large bowl. Add all the other ingredients and toss until kale is coated. Line a baking sheet with foil, coat with non-stick cooking spray. Spread kale onto baking sheet in a single layer. It might take two baking sheets. If using two baking sheets, make sure to rotate them halfway through the cooking time. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes. Store any leftovers in an airtight container.

Lettuce

Plant now: Any type of lettuce you can buy at the grocery store is one you can also grow yourself —‌ the easiest to grow is loose leaf lettuce, as it is the quickest to mature at about four weeks.

“Lettuce … can withstand light to moderate frost and will tolerate some shade, but it really prefers a lot of sun,” Bernitz said. “Loose leaf lettuce is really good for planting in the spring, for both containers and raised beds. … You’re planting in early to mid-April, and harvesting all May and June long if you’re planting it successionally.”

Watch them grow: Depending on your variety of choice, from smaller loose leaf lettuce to larger heads, Bernitz you might need a little extra space between each for them to grow.

“Lettuce is something you don’t want to plant too deeply. The seeds should be just below the surface of the soil,” he said.

Out to harvest: Most varieties of lettuce take about 40 to 50 days and then can be harvested over and over throughout the season, according to Munroe. Like spinach, Bernitz said, lettuce is best harvested at cooler temperatures. You can harvest individual leaves or alternatively cut the entire plant at or just above the surface of your soil.

Eat later: Most lettuces can go great in salads, sandwiches or wraps. Romaine lettuce, according to information from the New Hampshire Farm to School’s Harvest of the Month program, is typically viewed as the most nutrient-rich.

Onions

Plant now: If you’re looking for a “big, supermarket size” onion, Erler said, there are two ways to plant them: You can start them from seed in a container indoors, then transport them outside after several weeks when they’ve sprouted, or you can grow them from an onion set, a tiny, immature onion bulb, which can be planted outside. Plant the seeds or sets no deeper than an inch, allowing several inches of space between each plant.

Watch them grow: Onions grow well in a rich, loamy soil, with a full day of direct sunlight. They like having plenty of water, Erler said, so make sure the soil stays consistently moist.

Out to harvest: The growing time for onions is longer than that for most other vegetables, Erler said. Expect to harvest at the end of the summer, around three to four months after planting. You’ll know they’re ready once their tops start to yellow and fall over.

Eat later: Onion casserole

Recipe by Sara Oberle, Nutrition Connections Teacher, and courtesy of UNH Cooperative Extension.

4 large onions, diced

1 Tablespoon olive oil

1 cup long grain rice, cooked according to package directions

⅔ cup milk

¼ teaspoon black pepper

¼ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon ground allspice

½ cup cheddar cheese, grated

Cook rice according to package directions and set aside. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a skillet add olive oil and diced onions. Sauté for 5 minutes or until soft and translucent. In a large bowl add the sautéed onions, cooked rice, milk, black pepper, salt, and ground allspice; stir until blended. Pour into a lightly oiled casserole dish. Sprinkle the grated cheddar cheese on top. Cover and bake for 40 minutes. Remove cover and bake for 5 more minutes until cheese begins to brown.

Peas

Plant now: Peas are considered cool-season veggies that should be planted now, according to Nate Bernitz, home horticulture outreach program manager for the UNH Cooperative Extension.

“In order to get a good crop of peas, you’d want to plant them early in the spring, to give them time to mature before it gets too hot out,” Bernitz said. “Their ideal temperatures are between 60 and 75 degrees. … I’d also recommend planting peas successionally, which means making additional plantings every week or couple of weeks rather than all at once. It guarantees you a good continuous harvest, because peas are veggies you want to eat soon after they’re ready.”

Watch them grow: Bernitz said peas do best when growing on something they can climb on —‌ you can use some kind of trellis, or make your own using chicken wire, sticks or other materials. Peas shouldn’t be overfertilized, either.

“They really thrive when given that space,” he said. “I would also say that peas … do really well when grown with other crops. So peas and spinach, for example, go really well together. Peas are kind of slow growing, whereas spinach grows quickly.”

Out to harvest: Peas will flower and produce pods that can be picked when ready to be harvested. Depending on the variety, this can take around 50 to 60 days from when you plant it, although some may produce pods sooner than others, according to Justin Munroe, founder and executive director of the nonprofit Grow Nashua.

Eat later: According to Bernitz, peas will taste sweet, tender and non-starchy when ready to be harvested. Peas or pea pods can be enjoyed as a side vegetable to a protein, while pea shoots can be added in dishes like pastas or potato salads.

Radishes

Plant now: Radishes can be sown by seed outside in the spring. Plant the seeds about 1/4 inch deep in the soil, spaced a couple of inches apart and in rows about a foot apart. “They need space,” Erler said. “If you aren’t really careful in the way that you space them, you may need to thin them out a bit [as they grow].”

Watch them grow: Radishes prefer a well-draining, sandy soil and at least six hours of full sun each day. It’s very important that radishes get enough water, Erler said, as that can directly affect how the radishes come out. “They tend to have a milder flavor and be more tender when they’ve had plenty of water,” she said. “[If they haven’t] they can end up pithy or woody and really spicy.” Give them at least an inch of water a week, more if conditions are hot or dry.

Out to harvest: Radishes have a quicker turn-around than most vegetables, Erler said, reaching maturity in as little as two to three weeks. Simply pull them out of the soil by hand.

Eat later: Radish stir-fry with sugar snap peas

Recipe by Shirley Clark of Nutrition Connections and courtesy of UNH Cooperative Extension.

Serving size ¾ cup. Serves 8.

1 tablespoon. oil

1/2 cup shallots, diced

3 cups sugar snap peas, chopped

2 cups radishes, sliced

1/4 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons fresh dill, chopped

salt and pepper to taste

Wash your hands and fresh ingredients. Heat oil in large pan over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Add snap peas and cook 3 minutes. Add radishes and cook 3 more minutes. Stir. Add orange juice and dill. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Serve and enjoy. Refrigerate leftovers and use within 2 to 3 days.

Spinach

Plant now: Like peas, spinach is another cool-season vegetable you’d want to start planting now, according to Bernitz, and is another one he recommends planting successionally.

“Spinach is a great one to plant not only in the spring but also in the fall as well. Peas tend not to be great for the fall because they are a little slower to mature,” he said.

Watch them grow: Spinach will prefer shade over full sun and cooler temperatures over warm. In fact, Bernitz said spinach that has been exposed to a little bit of frost will change its overall taste.

“It tastes somewhat sweeter when exposed to some light frost and harvested in cooler temperatures,” Bernitz said.

Out to harvest: According to Bernitz, single leaves of spinach should be harvested as soon as they reach a usable size, at cool temperatures if possible. Spinach has a short shelf life, lasting just a few days in the refrigerator. It should be run under cold water and immediately refrigerated after harvest, he said.

Eat later: Spinach cooks very quickly and can go great when sauteed with other greens like collards and Swiss chard, on its own or added to dishes like scrambled eggs or soups.

Tomatoes

Plant now: If you have the space indoors, you can start planting tomatoes now. Otherwise, if you’re looking to plant seeds directly into the ground, those will need to wait a little bit longer.

“Tomatoes you don’t want to plant or transplant outdoors until the danger of frost has passed, because they will not tolerate frost,” Bernitz said. “They are veggies that people typically start growing indoors. … We recommend starting them from seed indoors under grow lights for about six to eight weeks before you transplant them out.”

Watch them grow: Tomatoes need a lot of room for their roots to grow, so if you are starting them indoors, Bernitz said, they need pots or containers at least five gallons in size.

Varieties of tomatoes are either determinate or indeterminate —‌ indeterminate varieties will continue producing new tomatoes throughout harvest season and until the threat of frost, which is normally around October but could return earlier or later than that, depending on the year and what part of the state you live in, according to Bernitz.

“Indeterminate tomatoes are common,” he said. “Determinate tomatoes are much shorter and bushier, and they produce all of their tomatoes at once, which is not really what some people like if they want to be enjoying fresh tomatoes off the vine all summer.”

Out to harvest: In general, Munroe said tomatoes can take around 60 to 75 days to be ready depending on their size, and there may be additional harvesting time depending on when the first fall frost occurs. Tomatoes should then be stored at room temperature, out of direct sunlight.

“Our seasons have been getting longer and longer,” he said. “We’ve been growing strong through the end of September, and even this past year we were a week or two into October.”

Bernitz said some tomato varieties will drop when ripe, whereas others will cling to the plant. Most will come off the plant easily when they are ripe or close to ripe.

Eat later: A fresh homegrown tomato can be eaten by itself, Bernitz said, or cooked alongside some homegrown basil or made into a sauce for meals like pastas. Frozen tomatoes will keep for about eight to 12 months.

Tree fruits

Apples, pears, plums, cherries and certain varieties of peaches grow well in southern New Hampshire.

Plant now: Fruit trees can be planted in the spring once the snow has completely melted and the soil is thoroughly dried and workable. The best way to start growing a fruit tree, according to Emma Erler, Commercial Horticulture Field Specialist for UNH Cooperative Extension, is to plant a “grafted” tree, a branch that’s taken from a parent plant and attached to its own root system. “You could certainly try to grow [a fruit tree] from seed, but you’re probably not going to end up with a very delicious fruit,” she said. To plant the grafted tree, dig a hole that is deep enough to accommodate the full height of the root system and wide enough to spread the roots out. “Ideally, the part of the stem that’s just above the roots will be sitting just above soil level,” Erler said. “You don’t want [the stem] of the plant to be covered by soil at all.”

Watch them grow: Fruit trees need direct sunlight — around six to eight hours of it a day — and a well-drained soil to thrive. “A shaded area or low-lying area where water tends to pool and form puddles is not the spot for them,” Erler said. “You want a nice, open, sunny spot where the soil can dry fairly quickly.” The young tree needs water — by rain, sprinkler or watering can — at least a couple times a week. Each watering should be enough to soak at least 8 to 12 inches down into the soil. “You want to make sure you aren’t just flooding the upper inch or so of soil,” Erler said. “You want to water enough so that if you were to dig into the soil near the plant you’d see the water.”

Out to harvest: The yield from fruit trees takes some patience, Erler said; you probably won’t see any quality fruit until the tree is at least 3 to 5 years old. “The tree needs to be structurally strong first, so it’s not likely to break under the weight of the fruit or from snow or ice,” she said. One of the biggest mistakes people make when planting fruit trees, Erler said, is trying to harvest the fruit prematurely. “It’s tough to do, but you should actually be removing any fruits that start growing during the first couple of years,” she said. “When the tree is producing fruit, it’s taking energy away from the growth of the roots and the tree.”

Eat later: Fruit crisp

Recipe by Christine Parshall, Nutrition Connections Teacher, and courtesy of UNH Cooperative Extension.

Serving size 1/2 cup. Serves 6.

4 cups fruit, like blueberries, pears, apples, peaches (frozen, canned or fresh)

2 tablespoons. white or whole wheat flour

1/3 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1/2 cup oats

1/2 stick softened margarine or butter

3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon nutmeg

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Wash hands with soap and water. Grease an 8 x 8 x 2-inch pan. If using canned fruit, drain juices and rinse. If using frozen fruit, thaw and drain. Scrub firm produce like apples and pears with a clean vegetable brush under running water. Gently rub tender produce, like peaches, under running water. Rinse fresh berries under running water. Slice fruit, if needed, and put in the pan. Add 2 tablespoons flour to fruit and stir in. Spread fruit evenly in pan. In a bowl, mix remaining ingredients together with a fork or hands until crumbly. Sprinkle over fruit evenly. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until topping is golden brown and fruit is tender when pierced with a fork. Serve warm.

Spring rosés

Time to stop and sip the wine

It’s spring and perhaps Mother Nature may cooperate and provide us with continued spring-like weather. The sun warms the soil, the snow banks are receding, and a few trees are already beginning to set buds. The perfect pairing for springtime fare is a chilled rosé wine.

Our first wine is an Italian sparkling rosé, Val d’ Oca Extra Dry Sparkling Rosé, originally priced at $15.99, reduced to $7.99 at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlets. It is a bright sparkling wine with a light pink color and floral, strawberry and raspberry aromas. The nose of the wine carries through to the palate, with a short but pleasant finish. This is a wine that is perfect as an aperitif or with fresh seafood or grilled fish. It is also ideal to be served opposite soft, young cheeses. Produced in Veneto, the northeast region of Italy and home to prosecco, this wine is also made from the glera grape, used in the production of prosecco. But added to the glera grapes are pinot noir grapes, bringing along their color and a fuller mouth to enhance the wine. Val d’Oca is under the Cantina Produttori di Valdobbiadene, a group of nearly 600 growers within about 2,500 acres of vineyards. The making of this wine consists of separate vinification for the glera grapes and the pinot noir grapes, including soft pressing and fermentation for the glera grapes and red maceration for the pinot noir grapes. Blending of the two happens before the second fermentation, employing the Charmat method (trapping bubbles in the wine via its own carbonation in large, cool steel tanks).

Our next two wines hail from the south of France.

Château Montaud Côtes De Provence 2019 Rosé (originally priced at $17.99, reduced to $12.99 at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlets) has a pink color approaching amber. It has a subtle nose, but to the mouth there are notes of peach, strawberry and citrus, followed by a mineral finish. It is refreshingly both smooth and crisp. It pairs well with vegetarian, fish, shellfish, pork and poultry, quite a diverse offering. This wine may not be complicated, but it is still lovely and can go beyond a dinner pairing wine to one that is enjoyed on the deck or patio in the warm spring sunshine with some cheese. This wine is a blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and mourvedre.

Gérard Bertrand 2019 Cote Des Rosé (originally priced at $17.99, reduced to $15.99 at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlets) is from the Languedoc region in the south of France, just west of Provence. Bordering Catalonia Spain and the Pyrenees Mountains, the region is known as the largest wine-growing region in the world and produces one third of France’s wines. It has a soft coppery-pink color and a nose of cassis and red currant, along with some floral notes. The palate is light, but with a ripe fruit character and some spiciness. Citric notes provide a lengthy feel and interest to the mouth. A blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault, this wine is different from the Pierrefeu rosé. There is more acid to the tongue, coupled with a taste of oak and tangerine rind.

Any, or all, of these rosés are a great way to celebrate spring.

Featured photo: Val d’ Oca Extra Dry Sparkling Rosé

Spring Sunshine

So, apparently, it’s springtime.

The snow is gone. We’ve switched over to daylight saving time. My road is a morass of muddy ruts. The air smells like fresh soil and stale dreams.

I like to think I’m jaded and world-weary, but I’m not immune to spring.

I’ve been giving my wife what passes for a saucy look. I’ve been practicing smiling knowingly and raising one eyebrow, which is much harder than it looks. Every time I think I’ve got it nailed, my wife will ask me if I’m feeling OK.

“What?” I ask. “Don’t I look sexy?”

“More like constipated,” she replies.

In my book, that must mean it’s Cocktail Time.

There are, of course, several cocktails that we associate with springtime — mint juleps, for instance, or creative hipster drinks infused with snap peas, or variations on summer drinks named after flowers, honeysuckle margaritas or hyacinth highballs, maybe.

Personally, I’ve been pretty fond of a Sunshine cocktail lately — a classic made with equal parts white rum, pineapple juice, dry vermouth and hope, with a small amount of grenadine for color and sweetness. It is bracing, not too sweet, and a lovely rosy-orange color. It is thoroughly delightful. And yet….

As much as I like a blisteringly cold Sunshine, as delicious as it is, it doesn’t taste very springish. The flavors all go together well, and it looks lovely and respectable, but it’s restrained and self-contained. It wears a tie and a vest and tips the staff generously but reasonably. It greets you with a firm handshake and asks after your family. It does not dash through the wildflowers, strewing rose petals and singing, “Hey, Nonny, Nonny,” on its way to meet a secret lover. It doesn’t demonstrate enough questionable judgment, in my opinion.

So let’s mess around with a classic cocktail that’s just minding its own business and not hurting anybody.

White rum is a good base for a drink. It doesn’t have a pronounced flavor, which makes it a good starting point for a cocktail that won’t offend anyone — vodka with a passport. (In fact, I made some dynamite banana-infused rum last week with white rum that would — but I digress.) Since we’re looking to put some backbone into our spring cocktail, let’s swap out the white rum for golden rum — not too dark — something caramel-colored that knows who it is. In this case, I’m using Rhum Clement, but anything golden will work.

I’m leaving the dry vermouth as is. It is a solid utility player that can support the rum.

Maybe the biggest change I’m going to make is swapping out the pineapple juice for passionfruit cocktail. We’ve talked about this before; you’ll find it in the juice aisle at the supermarket, probably just out of reach on the top shelf. It’s like pineapple juice, if PJ was perfumy and slightly dangerous-tasting.

Let’s replace the grenadine with homemade strawberry syrup. The strawberry goes well with the passionfruit cocktail and is a little more springy.

I’ll leave the hope as is.

Effulgence Cocktail

(I looked it up in a thesaurus, and it’s a synonym for sunshine. I like the sound of it.)

1½ ounces golden rum

1½ ounces dry vermouth

1½ ounces passionfruit cocktail

½ ounce homemade strawberry syrup (see below)

Combine all ingredients in a shaker half-filled with ice.

Strain into a chilled coupé glass.

Drink while making direct eye contact with a stranger.

This tastes similar to its cousin Sunshine, but with a few striking differences. The Effulgence’s golden rum is firmly in the driver’s seat. It lets you know who you’re dealing with, but it also lets you know that it is a professional and knows what it’s doing. The passionfruit adds a note of exotic devil-may-care vernality. The vermouth and the strawberry are background singers in this very nice spring-like mixed metaphor of a cocktail. Hey, nonny, nonny.

Strawberry syrup

• An undetermined quantity of frozen strawberries (Make as much or as little of this recipe as you like. The frozen berries will give up their juice more willingly than fresh ones; they’ve had their hearts broken by ice crystals.)

• An equal amount (by weight) of sugar

Heat berries and sugar in a small saucepan.

As the berries thaw and start to give up their juice, mash them with a potato masher.

Bring to a boil (to allow the sugar to dissolve completely), then remove from heat.

Cool, then strain into a small bottle and label.

Eat the remaining berry jam left in the strainer on toast or chocolate ice cream.

Featured photo: Effulgence Cocktail. Photo by John Fladd.

Let’s talk IPAs

So annoyingly popular

IPAs are so popular right now I almost try to avoid writing about them, not because I don’t enjoy them, but, look, they’re almost too trendy. And I don’t want to inundate people with IPAs all the time.

I think I may have overcompensated a bit, though. Let’s be serious; IPAs are far and away the most popular craft beer style in the country. You walk into a brewery, any brewery, and you know you’re going to have several IPAs to choose from and probably one or maybe two each of any other style they offer. That’s just the reality of the craft beer scene.

They are so popular because they taste so good. The bright hops feature big notes of tropical fruit, citrus and pine, and just an abundance of freshness. It’s incredible how flavorful they are.

With New England-style IPAs, you’re drinking a beer that looks like a glass of orange juice, and honestly, often doesn’t taste that far off from that.

It seems brewers have an almost endless supply of hop combinations to play with, and play with they do. The winners are the beer drinkers of this country.

It’s just that sometimes IPA culture is a bit much — this is the style of beer that causes people to do irrational things, like wait in really long lines just for beer. But that doesn’t change the way they taste.

Here are three IPAs I’ve had recently that reminded me how terrific this style is.

Hi, Jack New England IPA by Hobbs Brewing (Ossipee)

A friend handed one of these to me before we hit the slopes for some very late winter skiing and snowboarding, and I just couldn’t be more grateful. Yes, we can definitely talk about whether or not it was a great idea to have a beer before I tried to clumsily manipulate onto and then off of a chair lift, but I have no regrets.

I think a lot of the amped-up IPAs of today can be a bit much on the gut — I don’t know that I’d call them heavy but some of the big ones can bog you down, between the alcohol, the hops and, I think, the yeast.

This IPA is an explosion of fruity hop flavor but in a less robust package. It’s delicious and extremely easy to drink. What I’m saying is, you could have several of these, and I’m not saying you should, but I’m saying you probably will want to.

Donkey-Hoté Double IPA by Throwback Brewery (North Hampton)

Speaking of amped-up IPAs, here’s one. This is aggressive — aggressively hoppy and bitter — and yet surprisingly easy to drink, so be careful, as this comes in at 8.2-percent ABV. The pour is hazy and the flavor profile features big notes of citrus and apricot. I think a beer like this is your “reward” beer. Sit down, relax, put your feet up and enjoy this hop-bomb after you’ve accomplished something, such as an afternoon of yard work.

603 IPA by 603 Brewery (Londonderry)

I’m a little embarrassed to say that I don’t think I had ever had this beer before. Not sure what I was waiting for. This is excellent. In addition to tropical citrus notes, the brewery says the brew features notes of lime, orange and melon, and, yeah, that’s pretty much right on. I think you will pick up the lime, which just makes this brew especially interesting. This is a terrific “anytime” IPA.

What’s in My Fridge
Green Head IPA by Newburyport Brewing Co. (Newburyport, Mass.)

One of my all-time favorite IPAs, there’s just something about this beer. Maybe it’s just personal nostalgia or maybe it’s because I like the tag line, “The beer that bites you back,” but this West Coast-style IPA has just always been a winner for me — deliciously hoppy and bitter. Cheers!

Featured photo: Hi, Jack New England IPA by Hobbs Brewing. Courtesy photo.

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