Time for Mahrajan

Lebanese food is on the menu for the annual fest at Our Lady of the Cedars

“Mahrajan” — pronounced “MAR-john” — is an Arabic word that carries meanings of “festival” or “celebration.” For more than 50 years, Our Lady of the Cedars Church in Manchester has been throwing a mahrajan for the community every summer to share Lebanese food and culture with its neighbors.

“The food is Lebanese,” the Rev. Thomas Steinmetz, the Church’s pastor, said. “The parish itself was founded by people from Lebanon. And now, we have a real mix of Lebanese people and everybody else here. The Lebanese [parishioners] have taught a lot of the other people how to do [this type of] cooking too.”

Lebanese cooking has many similarities to the foods from other Mediterranean countries. A Greek or Israeli visitor to the Mahrajan Festival would feel very much at home.

“We call it a Middle Eastern food festival,” said Nikki Bullock, one of the parishioners responsible for the food, “but the emphasis is really on Lebanese specialties. We do have the classics — the lamb kebab and the chicken kebabs and the grape leaves are a big favorite — but we also have some things that maybe you can’t get as easily in this state. So we have our lamb shawarma and we have freshly made falafel, which is my favorite part of the festival.”

Unlike many food festival coordinators, who are so busy that they don’t have an opportunity to actually eat any of the food, Bullock is happy to work right next to the falafel ladies. ”So there’s crunchy, fresh falafel balls all weekend, so that’s great,” she said. “There’s just lots of home food for people who grew up with it, but also, because there’s not really many places to get it around here, it’s definitely exciting for us to be able to share it.”

Almost no Middle Eastern party would consider itself a proper mahrajan without lamb.

“Well, of course, I think the lamb is always a big hit,” Steinmetz said, “and we have that in two forms. One is the [charcoal-grilled] lamb kebabs, which is traditional, and the other is lamb shawarma.” This is a cone of thinly sliced meat that is roasted on a slow-turning vertical spit. “We also have chicken kebabs and chicken shawarma. But along with that, it’s a lot of the typical Arabic, Middle Eastern, Lebanese fare. What comes to mind is the stuffed grape leaves, which are very popular.”

The stuffed grape leaves are a good example of the attention the cooks behind the Festival bring to the details of each dish.

“We try to make everything that we can ourselves,” Bullock said. “You know, the grape leaves? Those leaves are picked from our vines. The whole church goes and picks their grape leaves. Our vine is my great-grandmother’s grape vine, so it’s special. It’s really wonderful because it is sort of this family affair, whether we’re related by blood or not.”

Guests can look forward to other Lebanese specialties like hummus, tabbouleh and kibbeh, but for many of the regulars the highlight of the Festival is the desserts, particularly the baklawa. “We call it ‘bet-LAY-wah’ in Lebanese,” Bullock said, explaining that there will be several varieties of the pastry. “We have walnut, we have pistachio, and we have a chocolate-hazelnut version. And you can buy a mix of those, which is great. And the Lebanese baklawa is a little lighter than the Greek, because It has a simple syrup versus the honey.”

This year’s festival is bittersweet for Bullock. Her mother, Marylou Lazos, whom she lost recently, was the long-time co-chair of the Festival. “She was the heart of our kitchen,” said Bullock. “All the things I know, I learned from her; our food definitely started with her in her heart.”

The from-the-heart aspect is the whole point, said Steinmetz, and something that makes him proud. “We want this to be a good kind of family-oriented event for people. We get to enjoy having people here enjoying the event. That’s a pleasure for us as well.”

Mahrajan Middle Eastern Food Festival
Our Lady of the Cedars Melkite Church, 140 Mitchell St., Manchester
Friday, Aug. 16, from 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday, Aug. 17, from noon to 10 p.m., and Sunday, Aug. 18, from noon to 5 p.m.
Admission is free. Visit bestfestnh.com.

The Weekly Dish 24/08/15

News from the local food scene

Nashua Burger Month: As reported in a July 25 Nashua Telegraph article, Nashua’s Department of Economic Development has designated August Nashua Burger Month. Nine participating restaurants have chosen a week during the month to feature a specialty burger. Customers who post a selfie online with one of the burgers and tag it with #NashuaBurgerMonth will be automatically entered to win a $50 gift card. Ten winners will be selected each week. The participating restaurants are Odd Fellows Brewery and O’Brien’s Sports Bar, Bistro603, Stella Blu, The Peddler’s Daughter, Fody’s Tavern, Rambling House, Riverwalk Bakery and Café, Martha’s Exchange, and Casey Magee’s.

Mocktails with romance authors: To celebrate the sixth annual Bookstore Romance Day, Gibson’s Bookstore (45 S. Main St., Concord, 224-0562, gibsonsbookstore.com) will hold a mocktail party with three popular romance authors on Saturday, Aug. 17 at 2 p.m. The Gibson’s website said, “Come meet some authors, mingle and chat, talk tropes, debate who is the best book boyfriend/girlfriend, and enjoy some delicious drinks from Gibson’s Cafe.” Jilly Gagnon, author of Love You, Mean It, Sarina Bowen, author of the True North series and the Brooklyn Hockey series, and Margaret Porter, author of A Change of Location and over a dozen historical romance novels, will be in attendance.

Rhubarb Bars

Cookie base and topping

  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter
  • 1 cup (200 g) brown sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla
  • 3¼ cups (405 g) all-purpose flour
  • ¾ teaspoon baking powder

Rhubarb filling

  • 2½ cups (285 g) chopped frozen rhubarb
  • 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
  • 1 Tablespoon cornstarch
  • juice of half a lemon

Glaze

  • juice of the other half lemon
  • ¾ cup (85 g) powdered sugar
  • Preheat oven to 350°F. Line an 8×8” baking pan.

Cream the butter and sugar together, and beat until it is fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Not that this will mean anything to you, but the mixture should be the same color as my Oma’s bathroom tiles.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour and baking powder together, then spoon the dry mixture into the batter. Put about half the mixture into the prepared baking dish and press it with the back of a spatula or a measuring cup to push it into all four corners. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the edges just start to turn brown. Remove from the oven and set aside. Chill the other half of the dough in your refrigerator. Don’t let it make you feel guilty by giving you a wounded look; its time will come.

In a small saucepan, combine the frozen rhubarb, sugar, cornstarch and lemon juice, and cook over medium-low heat. As the rhubarb thaws, it will release a fair amount of liquid. Stir frequently. Bring to a low boil, and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until it passes the Spoon Test. This is something you read about all the time in old cookbooks. Coat the back of a spoon with the rhubarb syrup, then run a finger through it. If it leaves a clear line, your mixture has turned to jam. Set the jam aside to cool.

At this point, you have the baked dough, the raw dough and the rhubarb jam all taking time-outs in separate corners. Do not feel sorry for them. They know what they did.

After the jam has cooled slightly, tell it that it has finished with time out and can play with its friends. Spoon it over the baked cookie base, and spread it to cover. Remove the rest of the cookie dough from the refrigerator, and drop thumb-sized chunks of it over the top of the jam. It should pretty much cover it, with hints of jam peeking out here and there.

Return the baking dish to the oven, and bake for another 45-50 minutes. Pat it lightly on top with your hand to see if it has finished baking. Take it out of the oven and set it aside to cool.

Mix the powdered sugar and the juice from the other half of your lemon together to make a pourable glaze. Spoon it over the top of the rhubarb-cookie mixture.

When everything has cooled, remove the cookie mixture from the baking dish and cut into bars. How many bars is up to you. I got 12, but if you look down and see one gigantic bar, that’s between you and your pancreas.

Because of all the brown sugar, these bars have a nutty brown color and look suspiciously like they might be made with whole wheat. Rest assured, these do not taste healthy. The butter and brown sugar give a warm, butterscotch flavor that is balanced out by the tartness of the rhubarb and the zinginess of the lemon. They taste like a blondie with benefits.

Featured Photo: Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Eric Alexander

Eric Alexander, Chef de Cuisine, Unwined in Milford, began his culinary journey in Rhode Island. Cooking in Newport, Eric embraced local ingredients and crafted dishes that were popular with both the locals and culinary circles. Then, at Johnson & Wales University, Eric dove into both the art and the practical side of gastronomy while polishing his cooking skills. He worked at Catalyst in Boston, Branch Line and Disney World, gaining experience in fine dining, large-scale culinary operations, seasonal ingredients and farm-to-table practices. Returning to New England, Eric continued developing menus and crafting culinary experiences as a personal chef before bringing his wealth of culinary knowledge to the Unwined team as Chef de Cuisine. His wife helps run a shelter and they foster and train dogs together, and have three dogs of their own. Seeunwinednh.com.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

My must-have tool is good spoons. They are useful for tasting, stirring, scooping food, and to help maintain consistent portioning.

What would you have for your last meal?

A Quarter Pounder with cheese, a 20-piece order of nuggets, a large order of fries and a chocolate shake.

What is your favorite local eatery?

Ansanm. Their food is incredible, and their plating is beautiful.

Who is a celebrity you would like to see eating at Unwined?

Comedian Dave Smith; he is a hilarious comedian and a smart guy.

What is your favorite item on your menu?

I like the rib-eye. Steak and potatoes is a timeless combination, and a good Bordelaise sauce is one of the best things there is.

What is the biggest food trend you see in New Hampshire right now?

Hyper-local sourcing is a trend that I am seeing. A lot of restaurants are trying harder to support their local farmers.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

My favorite thing to cook at home is whatever my wife wants.

Sumac Yogurt
From Eric Alexander

2 cups Greek yogurt
1 clove of garlic, microplaned or finely minced
1 Tablespoon sumac powder
juice of 1 lemon
zest of ½ lemon
salt to taste

Gather and measure all ingredients, then combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir until combined.

Hippo Note: Sumac is a sour spice from the Middle East. This yogurt would be an excellent side dish to anything spicy or Mediterranean.

Perfecting gluten-free bread

Dishon Bakery crafts artisanal bread loaves without the wheat

Evan Lang described his perfect, platonic ideal of a loaf of bread.

Made of flour, water, yeast and salt, it “would have a thick crust to give it a little bit of character,” he said, “baked pretty dark — caramelized in a way that you get flavor also from the crust. “The crumb should be relatively open. It should not fall apart; it should stay together, and it should not be gummy, meaning if you take the knife and you cut into it, we don’t want anything stuck on the blade.”

One of Lang’s missions in life is to make that bread, but without any gluten. At Dishon Bakery in Manchester, he is doing it.

Gluten is a stretchy protein found in wheat and a few other grains that helps give conventional bread its texture. As yeast ferments various nutrients in wheat flour, it gives off carbon dioxide gas, which is trapped by the stretchy gluten fibers in bread dough, allowing the dough to puff up — what bakers call “rise.” Unfortunately, some people — those with celiac disease, for instance — can’t digest gluten, and others choose not to eat it for nutritional reasons, so for bakers like Lang the trick is to find a way of duplicating gluten’s stretchiness without the actual gluten.

“If you go to the supermarket and you check out the gluten-free bread there, it’s not great,” Lang said. “It’s either small or crumbly. And if you’re looking at the ingredients, it’s more like cake; it’s full of sugar, it’s full of starches. We’re creating a product that’s a little more artisanal — kind of like real bread.” The secret, he said, is a slow, cold fermentation, and high hydration — meaning that his dough has more water in it than conventional wheat breads.

“Traditionally, bread and pizza have different hydration percentages,” he explained, “from 60 percent up to 100 percent for really, really Neapolitan-style pizza. “Our breads are all over 100 percent hydration.” This means that Dishon’s bread dough has more water than flour in it. By fermenting it slowly, at a low temperature, Lang gives it time to completely incorporate all that water.

Lang’s dough starts with brown rice, sorghum and millet flours — all gluten-free grains — and potato and tapioca starch, then builds the dough up to the point where it can be treated much like wheat dough.

“We bake on a stone like regular bread,” he said. “Traditionally gluten-free bread is kind of like a batter. It’s baked in a tin and ours are baked free-form on the stone.”

Dishon Bakery started as a cottage business in New Jersey in 2022.

“We were selling in farmers markets, and we very quickly outgrew that,” Lang remembered. “We moved to Philadelphia and we were baking in a commercial kitchen there and doing a lot of wholesale, continuing with farmers markets and shipping online. We were doing a pretty good online business. People would order online, we’d package it up and ship it out. We moved up here and we re-evaluated what we were doing.” The Langs decided to focus more on face-to-face interactions with their customers. “Since we did have enough demand for the product, it made no sense for us to sell more [wholesale]. So we’re going to try here to exclusively do retail, direct to consumer.”

Many gluten-free bakeries produce mostly sweet products — cookies, cakes, pastries and so on — but Dishon focuses almost exclusively on bread products. Lang keeps a freezer case with other gluten-free products for customers who are looking for something less bready.

“We have sweets that are New Hampshire-based,” Lang said. “We want to give them an outlet here. None of them are based in Manchester. So this brings their product to Manchester and also allows us to fill the case with products that we don’t do and we don’t specialize in.”

Dishon Bakery
915 Elm St., Manchester
Open Thursday through Saturday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Orders can be placed online at dishonbakery.com

The Weekly Dish 24/08/08

News from the local food scene

Food trucks and muscle cars: Windham’s Recreation department will host aFood Truck Festival and Car Show on the grounds of Windham High School (64 London Bridge Road, Windham) on Sunday, Aug. 11. In addition to eats from local food trucks, there will be music and games of cornhole. For more details contact the Windham Recreation office by phone at 965-1208 or by email at [email protected].

Dinner and a show: The Atkinson Resort & Country Club (85 Country Club Drive, Atkinson, 362-8700, atkinsonresort.com) will host Drag Me To Dinner, an evening of fine dining with a Tastes of Spain menu and drag entertainment, on Saturday, Aug. 10, beginning at 6:30 p.m. The event will be emceed by the duo of Kira Stone and Kris Knievil. Tickets are $65 through Eventbrite.

Bubbles: August’s Brunch and Bubbles event at Flag Hill Winery (297 N. River Road, Lee, 659-2949, flaghill.com) will take place Sunday, Aug. 11, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. This month’s brunch menu will include sparkling Cayuga and a full mimosa bar with a farm-to-table brunch featuring mac & cheese bar, fresh pastries and fruit, quiches, frittatas and more. Tickets are $65 each, available through Eventbrite.

International wine-off: Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host an Old World vs. New World Wine Class Tuesday, Aug. 13, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Participants will taste and compare wines. For example, how does a French Crémant stack up against a premium sparkling wine from California made in the Champagne method? The cost is $35 per person and the class is limited to 20 people. It includes six wines and light snacks. Reserve your place at Wine on Main’s website.

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