Many cultures at We Are One

Festival brings together foods from Caribbean and Central America

According to Peter Escalera, if you want to learn about a culture you need to learn its national anthem and eat its food.

“We are connected in so many different ways,” he said. “National anthems of countries speak about the country, what they were going through when they were formed. With food you will see the similarities of various different meats, seasonings and vegetables and fruits that have different names but are consumed by so many different people.”

Escalera — “In Spanish, it means ‘stairs,’” he noted — is in charge of organizing the food vendors at this weekend’s We Are One Festival in Manchester. The festival, which focuses on the food and music of cultures throughout the Caribbean and Central America, will bring together vendors selling foods from Puerto Rico, El Salvador, Mexico, Jamaica and many other countries.

“We have Pal Carajo restaurant coming,” Escalera said. “It’s a Puerto Rican restaurant, and they’ll be having stewed chicken and stewed beef and empanadas and maduros, roast chicken and all types of tropical drinks. Don Quijote restaurant will be having the yellow rice or croquetas, and pernin, which is the roast pork. We’re excited this year because everyone’s bringing in a lot of different types of flavors, the guacamoles and the different seasonings from various different countries.”

Escalera’s personal favorite food each year at the festival is mofongo.

“Mofongo is plantains,” he said. “They are put into this round, long mortar and pestle. You take 15 or so pieces of fried plantains and you mash them until it becomes a butter. You mash [them] with a little salt, a little pepper, and some nice garlic. You mash it until it’s soft, and mound it up on your plate. On the side you will have camarones al coco. Camarones, meaning shrimp; it’s in a pink coconut sauce that will have you saying, ‘Ooh, la, la!’”

Francisco Murillo is the owner of Pal Carajo. His restaurant, which specializes in Puerto Rican and Honduran foods, has only been open a few months; this will be his first We Are One Festival. One of the foods he is planning to serve is alcapurrias, a deep-fried Puerto Rican dish. “It’s made with green plantains — green banana. You can put green pepper, red pepper in it. You mash it, put that in the fryer. This is so good. It’s very traditional in Puerto Rico.”

Another specialty is Pal Caraho’s tripleta sandwich.

“The tripleta is a personal sandwich,” Murillo said. “It’s named for three different meats; it’s ham, it’s pork, and steak, with mayo and ketchup.”

“And then,” he said, with a grin, “you put on the nacho cheese. You can put lettuce, tomato and potato sticks, too.”

One of the challenges of serving hot food at a festival, Murillo said, is that it is very difficult to deep fry it on site, which makes serving empanadastricky.

“Everything is cooked here at the restaurant,” he said, “then [we] bring it to the park. It’s difficult. We’re planning to serve maybe 200 empanadas, 100 alcapurrias, 100 tripletas. A lot of people will be there.”

We Are One Festival
When: Saturday, Aug.16, from 11 a.m to 6 p.m.
Where: Veterans Memorial Park in downtown Manchester.
Admission is free.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Mamoul, baklawa and shawarma

Find treats, meats and more at Mahrajan

One of Nikki Bullock’s earliest memories of the maharajan is tied to her memories of her mother. “I think my earliest memory is of my mother cooking for it,” Bullock said. ”She was the co-chair [of the festival] for a very long time and the head chef. She passed away a year ago, and I’ve kind of taken over her role, but I think definitely my earliest memories are her standing behind the tent.”

The Mahrajan Middle Eastern Food Festival at Our Lady of the Cedars Church has been a mainstay of Manchester’s summer food festival season for decades, said Thomas Steinmetz, the church’s pastor.

“Our festival is an annual festival that we have. It’s called a mahrajan, which means ‘big festival.’ It’s an Arabic word, and this is a Lebanese food festival, actually. The parish here was founded by Lebanese families and so they have continued to perpetuate the food and the culture in the parish. It has a variety of attractions including quite a menu of different Lebanese food, a cash bar, and things for the kids like a petting zoo.”

For Nikki Bullock, this festival is an opportunity to show how much Lebanese food culture has in common with other Mediterranean cultures, but with a definite Lebanese slant. She used kibbeh as an example. On a surface level, kibbeh seems very much like Greek kebabs.

“We kind of call it Lebanese meatloaf,” she said, “but it’s baked, spiced ground beef with cracked wheat and pine nuts and lamb and onions. I think the biggest flavor differences between this and other Middle Eastern foods is definitely those spices. We have a lot of allspice and cinnamon, sumac and cumin, spices like that.” While there are traditional versions of kibbeh that are served raw, she said, the kibbeh at Mahrajan is not. “We don’t mess around with that. It is totally baked to temperature.”

As you’d expect from a Middle Eastern food festival, there are plenty of grilled meats, Bullock said — “there’s lamb kebabs, chicken kebabs, and chicken and lamb shawarma” — but what she personally looks forward to is falafel [deep fried balls of herbs and chickpeas]. “The falafel is just something that is hard to master making at home,” she said. “I work in the kitchen, so I get it hot out of the fryer, which is pretty magical.”

According to Bullock, one of the big draws at Mahrajan each year is the pastries.

“I think every culture in that region of the world has its own baklava interpretation,” she said. “So the Lebanese have — we call it baklawa. It’s very similar to the Greek, but we use a simple syrup as opposed to a honey. So it’s a little bit lighter, a little crunchier. I mean, I love both, but I think ours is a little less sweet. But we have a hot chocolate version, a walnut version, and a pistachio version with a little rose water. So we bring in a little, again, a little bit of that Middle Eastern flavor in there. We also have what we call date fingers — it’s like a buttery pastry dough and then there’s dates in the middle of that and that has powdered sugar on top. And we have a nut version of that too, called mamoul, which I believe is still one of the oldest cookies in the world, the mamoul. It’s super-unusual. It has an ingredient in it called makhali, which is actually ground cherry pits that we kind of sprinkle on the pastry.” Bullock remembers seeing a challenge on The Great British Baking Show a few seasons ago when the contestants baked cookies from Cyprus that used makhali. “I remember seeing that and getting really excited,” she said. “I was like, ‘I can bake that!’”

Mahrajan Middle Eastern Food Festival
When: Friday, Aug. 15, from 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday, Aug. 16, from noon to 10 p.m., and Sunday, Aug. 17, from noon to 5 p.m., according to the website.
Where: Our Lady of the Cedars Church, 140 Mitchell St., Manchester, 623-8944, olocnh.org
More: bestfestnh.com

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 25/08/14

News from the local food scene

Greenleaf is closing: Beloved fine dining restaurant Greenleaf(54 Nashua St., Milford, 213-5447, greenleafmilford.com) has announced that it will close its doors at the end of August. In an online statement, owner Chef Chris Viaud wrote that “rising costs of labor and goods within an industry that already has the burden of profit margins” necessitated the closing. Greenleaf’s final service will be Saturday, Aug.30. Visit facebook.com/greenleafmilford.

Caroline’s moves: Upscale catering company Caroline’s Fine Food (404-6500, carolinesfood.com) and its sister company The Pot Pie Bar (432-1927, thepotpiebar.com) have moved to a new location at 649 Mast Road in Goffstown. They are open for business Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Pot Pie Bar’s menu changes frequently; updated menu information is available at thepotpiebar.com.

Cooking affordably: The Derry Public Library (64 E. Broadway, Derry, 432-6140, derrypl.org) will host “Shopping on a Budget” on Wednesday, Aug. 20, at 6 p.m. Looking to learn how to stretch your food dollar? Join Cooking Matters for this interactive workshop to discuss budgeting and cook some delicious meals. Each participant receives a $10 grocery store gift card for attending (limit one per household). Space is limited. Call 432-6140 or visit derrypl.org to register.

• “Dinner and a MOO-vie”: Sunday, Aug. 17, beginning at 6:30 p.m., the Joppa Hill Educational Farm (174 Joppa Hill Road, Bedford, 472-4724, sites.google.com/theeducationalfarm.org/joppahillfarm) will host a catered dinner from the Potato Concept, followed by a showing of Trolls World Tour on the big screen with concessions from Ken’s Corn, Sweet Heat and The Inside Scoop. Tickets are $23.18 and must be purchased in advance.

Italian grilling: Tuscan Market (Tuscan Village, 9 Via Toscana, Salem, 912-5467, tuscanbrands.com) will host a hands-on summer grilling class called “In the Beer Garden with Chef Jarret” on Saturday, Aug. 16, at noon. In this class you will grill rib-eyes marinated in garlic and spices from the Tuscan Market’s butcher shop. Try some delicious condiments and learn techniques to make you a master on the grill. Tickets are $71.21 through eventbrite.com.

Grasshopper Pie

Crust:

  • 20 Oreo cookies
  • 5 Tablespoons butter, melted

Filling:

  • 1 10-ounce bag of marshmallows, minus four. Either eat the four leftover marshmallows out of hand, or shmear them with peanut butter and freeze them. Use them as needed for stress relief.
  • 2/3 cup (161 g) half & half
  • 2 Tablespoons crème de cacao
  • 2 Tablespoons crème de menthe – Peppermint schnapps will work just as well. Except for the color (see below).
  • 2 to 3 drops of green food coloring. Maybe. It’s a judgment call.
  • 1 cup (232 g) heavy cream
  • Fresh mint for garnish

Crush the Oreos, either by hand or in your food processor. Combine them with the melted butter. If you didn’t use a food processor, this is a good opportunity to smash up the larger cookie chunks with your mixing spoon.

Press the chocolate crumb mixture into a pie plate, and chill it in the refrigerator.

Place a medium-sized bowl over a pot of boiling water to make a double-boiler. Melt the marshmallows and the half & half together until the mixture is lump-free, then set it aside to cool slightly.

Whip the heavy cream.

Combine the marshmallow mixture, the whipped cream and the booze. Grasshoppers — the cocktails and the pies — are well-known for their vibrant green color. If this is important to you, add a couple drops of green food coloring to the mixture at this time. (If you actually used crème de menthe, it will already be green and you won’t have to worry about this.)

Spoon the filling into the chilled pie crust, and return it to the refrigerator. Chill it for at least an hour. Overnight might be better.

Serve with more whipped cream and garnish with fresh mint.

This is a delicious pie. How could it not be? Chocolate and butter and marshmallow and mint and cream? Now look at the picture of this piece of pie.

If she were entered into a pie beauty pageant, she wouldn’t even have a shot at winning Miss Congeniality. I wonder if this wouldn’t make a better pudding than a pie — what if we crumbled up the Oreo/butter mixture and divided it between six small bowls, then spooned the filling over that, chilled them separately, and served them with more whipped cream and fresh mint?

Meanwhile, in trying for a prettier pie version of these components, I froze the pie overnight, and it worked beautifully with nice, crisp slices.

Featured photo: Grasshopper Pie. Photo by John Fladd.

Slices for pints

Za Dude Pizza plus Kettlehead Brewing plus tunes

Josh Migliori and his partner Brett Murray have been working to redesign the entire menu for a chain of breweries, but first they were heavy-metal musicians.

“I grew up in the early 2000s,” Migliori remembered. “I was part of the metal and hardcore scene; I was playing a lot of screaming music. I was touring full-time in the late 2000s. And then I kind of retired from doing that in 2010, and got into the restaurant business around that time.”

After that, Migliori said, he worked in a number of restaurants, and in recent years he and Murray ran pop-up restaurants and cooked for events as Za Dude Pizza Co.

“We were basically like a food truck without the truck,” he said. “We would pop up at breweries throughout New Hampshire and Massachusetts and Maine for the past couple years, just working at festivals and catering.” Eventually, Migliori and Murray were approached by the owner of Kettlehead Brewing in Nashua to redesign the brewery chain’s food service.

“We opened up in [Kettlehead’s Nashua] location in April,” Migliori said. “We started as a pizza pop-up before we ended up here; we’re not just doing pizzas now. We have the ability with a full kitchen to take the crazy and wacky kid foods that we were doing and take that to the next step.”

In Kettlehead Nashua’s menu, that sense of fun is apparent. Migliori’s take on grilled shishito peppers, for instance, is called You Think You’re Hot Shishito?! They are served with a charred scallion and citrus vinaigrette and kimchi. The Party Animal Fries are covered in caramelized onions, queso and “gnarly sauce.” Other dishes make reference to classic rock bands. C.R.E.A.M. stands for “Corn Rules Everything Around Me”; it is a spread inspired by Mexican street corn, and includes a charred scallion lime crema, cotija cheese, cilantro and Taki dust.

The idea, Migliori said, has been to design a new menu from the ground up, being as innovative as possible but still serving pub food that is consistently delicious.

“We’re excited to keep putting out daily specials, collabs with the chef, and working on seasonal things,” he said. “We’re bringing in a lot of local farm produce, working with the local businesses and purveyors in the area, just trying to do really good, upscale pub food. We’re taking everyday bar food and taking it to the next level.”

Going hand in hand with Kettlehead’s food evolution, Migliori said, is its approach to live music. “Having the ability to have a venue of our own that is coinciding with a restaurant and a brewery, we really wanted to be able to provide something different that a lot of venues in New Hampshire don’t really do. We’re able to kind of take our skill and our menu that we’re doing right now in Nashua and tweak [the dishes we serve] during the day. We can now do slices during the late nights … or if they just want to grab some fries or a hot dog or a number of different late-night apps that we have on the menu. It’s really quick [for our customers]. Within a couple minutes they have their food and they’re able to go back out and enjoy the music and enjoy the night with their friends.”

’90s Pizza Party
What: A night of music with cover bands Dangerous Nights and A Blockbuster Summer featuring ’90s music, a special pizza menu and more, according to a post on Kettlehead’s Facebook page.
When: Saturday, Aug. 16, at 8 p.m.
Where: Kettlehead Brewing, 97 Main St., Nashua, 204-5718, kettleheadbrewing.com

Featured photo: Brookford Farm (courtesy).

Acres of sunflowers

Find food, music and of course flowers at local farms

August is sunflower season and Greg and Amber Pollock, the owners of the 20-acre sunflower farm SunFox Farm in Concord, will host a Sunflower Blossom Festival for the next two weekends, Aug. 9 and Aug. 10, and Aug. 16 and Aug. 17, from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m.

Greg said he and his wife Amber were inspired to grow sunflowers by a trip to Italy.

“We were driving through these vast sunflower fields that were all past bloom,” he recalled. “Part of me just wanted to see that in all its glory. And then another part of me wanted to learn this new crop and new style of farming.”

The first year the Pollocks planted sunflowers, “as soon as they bloomed I was just blown away,” Greg said. “I threw a post out on Facebook and we had hundreds of people come through. That was the birth of our Sunflower Festival. It’s just grown ever since. This is our seventh year growing sunflowers.” From a simple invitation for friends to come look at the sunflowers, he said, the festival has grown quite a bit. “We just try to make it better and better every year.”

“Each day, we’ve got live musicians and food trucks and artisan vendors,” Greg said, “and paths through the field. We’ve got viewing decks to get you up high above the flowers. You can cut your own sunflowers as well and you’ll be surrounded by 500,000 blooms.”

“We’ll have over 20 vendors each weekend,” Amber added. “[Guests] can cut their own flowers. A lot of people will purchase lunch or dinner and hang out at some of our picnic tables. We set up yard games. So it’s sort of just a family day. You can go right into the field. We have the paths that are cut into the field that will get you right out into the middle of the farm. And we’ve got a nice big bridge that gets you 10 feet up, so you’re way above the flowers looking out, taking it all in and, you know, it’s truly an immersive experience.”

Ten miles away, in Canterbury, there will be a second sunflower celebration. Brookford Farm will host its annual Sunflower Soiree from Aug. 9 through Aug. 17, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily.

According to farm owner Luke Mahoney, this yearly event is a way to celebrate the short period between planting and harvesting crops.

“Every year we plant two and a half acres of sunflowers,” he said, “and we invite folks to come to the farm and enjoy the most beautiful time of the year. They can pick their own sunflowers and there is a sunflower stroll where we cut a path right through the field. There will be lots of photo opportunities and there is an observation tower that we built out of a shipping container where people can come up on top of. They’ll be standing 12 feet in the air, overlooking the sunflower field. And really, they’ll be overlooking the whole farm. We’re a 600-acre organic farm and the sunflowers are planted right in the middle of it. So from the tower you really get a good view of the whole farm.”

There will be farm-to-table food available, Mahoney said — both from the Brookford farm store, and hot prepared meals — as well as live music on the weekends, hands-on craft activities for children, a vendor market, and two cow parades daily. At 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., guests can watch the farm’s cows “marching” to and from their barn. “On the way out to pasture, and when they come back in for milking in the evening, they walk again through the event grounds,” Mahoney said.

And then, he pointed out, there is always a chance for an unexpected, value-added experience. “Last year, we had three or four calvings, live births happening during the event.”

SUNFLOWER FESTS
Coppal House Farm (118 N. River Road in Lee, 659-3572, nhsunflower.com) has ended its festival but is holding its Sunflower Variety Garden through Sunday, Aug. 10, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Admision costs $6 per person 5+.

SunFox Farm’s (Gully Hill Road, Concord, 244-9888, sunfoxfarm.org) Sunflower Bloom Festival will take place Aug. 9, Aug. 10, Aug. 16 and Aug. 17, from 10 a.m. to 8:45 p.m. Adult admission is $12 per day. Children 10 and under are free. Cut your own flowers, $2 per stem. Visit sunfoxfarm.org/sunflowerfestival.

Brookford Farm’s (250 West Road, Canterbury, 742-4084, brookfordfarm.com) Sunflower Soiree will take place Aug. 9 through Aug. 17, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. General admission tickets are $12.51 and children’s tickets are $9.31 through eventbrite.com. Visit brookfordfarm.com/store/product/sunflower-soiree.

Featured photo: Brookford Farm (courtesy).

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