Album Reviews 22/03/17

Crowbar, Zero And Below (Mnrk Records)

’Twas only by accident that I ever discovered this New Orleans mud-metal band for myself in the first place, and for that, you’ll have to indulge a little inside baseball, apologies in advance. In 2005, around the second year I’d decided to moonlight as a music reviewer, Candlelight Records was sending me every CD they released. Those albums were never any good, and I was just about to swear off them, but I was trying to fill a column and ended up with Crowbar’s Lifesblood for the Downtrodden in my car. I couldn’t believe how awesome it was, Kirk Windstein’s ragged, uniquely badass voice and sludge riffage blasting into my face like a Frankenstein’s monster that had a personal gripe with me. You have to hear these guys to believe it, and the tradition continues here, in their 12th album, starting with “The Fear That Binds You,” a brand-flaunting exercise that sounds like early Mastodon covering Paranoid-era Black Sabbath. Windstein’s voice isn’t as insane-sounding as his “Slave No More” days, but that really shouldn’t stop you; if you’re a rivet-head who’s never heard these guys, your life is incomplete, trust me. A+

Birthday Massacre, Fascination (Metropolis Records)

This Canadian goth-techno band is still, at least to me, the gold standard for spooky 1980s ghost-pop. Some critic wrote that their 2007 full-length Walking With Strangers is the “Sgt. Pepper’s of Dark Wave,” and I’d have to agree; it’s still an unsurpassed mix of Missing Persons and Depeche Mode, the perfect dance tuneage for an ’80s-themed Halloween party. But notice I said it’s still “unsurpassed,” which is a bit of a run, there, because this crew should have surpassed it a long ago, and, well, they haven’t. The band tried some KMFDM stylings that fell flat; singer Chibi is no raging Lucia Cifarelli and should never have tried it on for size, but anyway, that brings us up to date, and to this album, which does start out on a cool-enough note with a sparkling rawk ballad in the title track. Definitely more of a pop edge than on the last few records, which is where they should be; it’s definitely their best since WWS, but all that means is WWS is still, you know, unsurpassed. A

PLAYLIST

• March 18 is our next all-purpose album release date, when you can wait outside the record store for the guy in the truck to dump out all the albums, where they will find homes in people’s cars, where the delicate CDs will eventually wind up getting Wendy’s mayonnaise spilled on them and thrown away, which is what you should do with most of those albums in the first place, use them as little single-serving plates for fast food. So that brings us to Georgia Gothic, the new album from Mattiel, a band from Atlanta that’s fronted by its namesake, Mattiel Brown, who sounds like a cross between Nico and Siouxsie Sioux, not that that means they’re forgiven for making such boring music. Take for example teaser single “Jeff Goldbum,” a tune that sounds like Garbage but without any hook whatsoever, just a medium-tempo Rolling Stones-ish groove that wanders around aimlessly looking for spare change on the street and then, finding none, ends as uneventfully as it began. Punchline to this bit is that the band played this dumb tune on Stephen Colbert’s late night TV show, which proves once and for all that Colbert needs to find some act-bookers who don’t take the first bribe some indie label (ATO Records in this case) extracts from their trenchcoat and slides over to them at the greasy coffee shop. I mean, don’t get me wrong, this would be awesome stuff if it were the first time I’d ever heard music played on an electric guitar, it’s all good, man.

Midlake is a funny little indie-folkie-ish band from Denton, Texas, and they seem to be something of a big-hitter, an up-and-coming band on the AOR/yacht-rock scene! The band’s new LP, For The Sake Of Bethel Woods, is coming out in just a few hours and features the single “Bethel Woods,” a tune that’s sort of like if Guster had a baby with some sleepy-time 1980s AOR band like Bruce Hornsby, like there’s a sort-of-driving piano line and a hook meant for driving around in the rain looking for a 7-Eleven. It’s boring, in other words, but like I hinted, there’s money behind these guys, so the video for the tune features none other than Hollywood second banana Michael Pena, who’s just walking around the city looking kind of intense, and — wait a second, is that Trinity from The Matrix? Nope, it’s a younger Trinity, and now they’re in a church and there’s a wedding. No, wait, it’s a baptism. Nope, hold it, it’s a funeral, and now Michael Pena’s running around on the streets having memories of being a young boy or whatever. I’d rather peel potatoes for a month than ever have anything to do with this band again, honestly.

Babeheaven is a pair of British girls who started their career as youngsters, and now no one seems to know what they are exactly. Run a search for the band’s name and you get “they’re R&B,” “they’re dream pop,” and of course Pitchfork’s “bedroom indie,” which does make sense I suppose. Whatever, blah blah blah, they’re “more mature” now, which means they have their own smartphone bills to deal with or something, I guess. The new LP Sink Into Me is kicked off by “Make Me Wanna,” which would have been a cool Portishead-ish chillout, but the tandem appearance of a crummy cheese-synth and none-too-smooth rapper Navy Blue had me bailing after about two minutes. Hard pass.

• We’ll close this out with Sonic Youth’s In/Out/In, which features unreleased tuneage from 2000 to 2010. Keeping in mind that the band peaked in 1983, I was naturally none too thrilled with “In And Out,” which comes off like a Tangerine Dream throwaway, but all the power to you if you’re a Sonic Youth completist; enjoy.

If you’re in a local band, now’s a great time to let me know about your EP, your single, whatever’s on your mind. Let me know how you’re holding yourself together without being able to play shows or jam with your homies. Send a recipe for keema matar. Message me on Twitter (@esaeger) or Facebook (eric.saeger.9).

A trip to Burgundy

A look at the wines of Louis Jadot

Louis Jadot is one of Bourgogne’s (Burgundy) most important wine producers and négociants (merchants who buy grapes, juice, and wine to blend and produce under their label). Most Burgundian estates are small and premier and grand cru holdings can be tiny, so négociants play an important role in the distribution of their wine. Louis Jadot has a portfolio that covers everything from inexpensive Bourgogne and Beaujolais to several grand cru wines. The grapes grown in Burgundy are principally chardonnay and pinot noir.

Louis Jadot has become a force within the wine industry in the Burgundian region and beyond. So wide is the array of wines produced by Louis Jadot that there is a standout vineyard or site in every vintage. New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets alone carry 12 distinctively different pinot noirs, eight different chardonnays and three different gamays.

Our first wine, a 2019 Maison Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé (originally priced at $25.99, and on sale at $22.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is produced in the Mâconnais region of Burgundy. It has a light straw color and aromas of apples and honey. To the mouth there are nuts, along with some citrus. This win is partially barrel-fermented with six months of aging in French oak, which imparts complexity. This wine is ideal for pairing with roasted salmon, shellfish, or creamy cheeses. For those who shy away from chardonnay, this is a wine to try, as it comes from vines planted in clay-limestone soils. It is incredibly different from a typical chardonnay.

Our second wine, a 2019 Maison Louis Jadot Marsannay Blanc (originally priced at $33.99, and on sale at $31.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is produced in the Côte de Nuits region of Burgundy, the farthest northern extent of Burgundy. Created in 1987, Marsannay la Côte is the most recent AOC to the Côte de Nuits. It is straw in color, with just a touch of orange that comes from a slightly pigmented chardonnay grape. To the nose there are aromas of pears and almond; to the mouth there is a slight minerality with orange pith and a citrus bouquet that opens in the glass, akin to a good Chablis, another wine derived from the chardonnay grape. This wine can be paired to foods beyond shellfish and soft cheeses to include pasta dishes with a fresh, light tomato sauce, or a charcuterie platter.

Our third wine, a 2019 Maison Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir (originally priced at $20.99, and on sale at $14.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is a blend of pinot noir coming from Jadot’s relationships with wine growers from vineyards across the Côte d’Or and Côte Chalonnaise, surrounding Beaune, the wine capital of the Burgundy wine region. This is an exceptionally elegant pinot with complex aromas of plums. Raspberries and cherries carry through to the tongue, joined by a slight earthiness of mushrooms, along with mineral notes and a balanced acidity. Paired with chicken, pork, or grilled fish, this wine is an excellent bargain, not to be missed!

Try a bottle of Louis Jadot. There is so much to choose from! You will welcome the new experience.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Maple Daiquiri

We’ve reached the point where the nights are still cold but the days are warm — not Las Vegas warm, but warm enough for people like us, who have been looking at our own breath since Thanksgiving. In other words: maple sugaring season.

So let’s make something mapley. A quick internet search will turn up any number of cocktails that use maple syrup, but we’re smart.

Most of the time.

OK, some of the time.

Anyway, we can almost certainly come up with something delicious on our own, last week’s pasta experiment notwithstanding.

My first step in working up a recipe around a particular ingredient is The Flavor Bible, by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg.

This isn’t a cookbook as such. It’s a reference work that discusses which ingredients go well together. Karen Page has interviewed a large number of chefs and picked their brains for which flavors go well with which other ones, and annotated their suggestions so that the reader can tell which flavor combinations are classics, and which ones are outliers with one or two passionate chef-advocates.

In our particular case, let’s look up “maple syrup.”

OK, this is interesting — Jerusalem artichokes. That’s worth remembering for another time, but I don’t think any of us have the patience right now to figure out a Jerusalem artichoke cocktail.

Moving on.

Oh. Bananas. This seems to be a popular combination with chefs. And, as it turns out, I just made a bottle of banana-infused rum. Let’s make a little checkmark in pencil next to that. What else? **mumbling** “Buttermilk, figs, mascarpone, winter squash ….” Oh, hey — chiles. And, as it turns out, I’ve got a bottle of Fresno pepper-infused rum downstairs, too.

So it looks like we’re going with a rum drink.

I don’t know about you, but I think I’d like to go with something fairly simple and straightforward this time, something that will let the maple shine through but give it another flavor to play off.

Something like a daiquiri.

Daiquiris, margaritas, gimlets — these all use a similar set of recipes — a base alcohol (in this case rum), something sweet (the maple syrup) and lime juice. The Flavor Bible doesn’t list limes in maple’s complementary flavors, but at least one chef suggests lemons, which would give us the same acidity as the lime juice. I say we go for it.

So, let’s make two different versions of our Maple Daiquiri, one with the Fresno rum and one with banana rum.

Verdict: The Maple/Chili Daiquiri is sweet and spicy. The lemon juice was a good call; it adds the acidity we were looking for, without elbowing its way to the front of your palate and distracting from the maple. It might be just a little too spicy, though. The maple syrup definitely adds sweetness, but its specific flavor gets a little lost.

The Maple/Banana Daiquiri comes across as a bit sweeter, but the maple definitely shines through. The banana is the first flavor that hits you, but you are left with a mapley feeling that makes you 8 percent less likely to scream in traffic.

Wait a second. I wonder …

** Pours about ¼ of the chili daiquiri into the banana daiquiri glass, then swirls it around pretentiously.**

Yup. This:

March Maple Daiquiri

Ingredients

  • 1½ ounces banana rum – see below
  • ½ ounce Fresno rum – see also below
  • ¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice
  • ½ ounce amber maple syrup

Combine ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake.

Strain into a martini glass.

Infused rums

Banana rum – Muddle one very ripe banana (the type you might use for banana bread) in the bottom of a large jar. Add two cups of white rum. Put the top on the jar, then shake well. Store in a cool, dark place for seven days, shaking once or twice per day. Strain, filter, and bottle.

Fresno rum – Roughly chop four fresh Fresno chilies and add them to the same type of large jar. Top the jar off with the same type of white rum. Store and shake, as above. Taste after four days, then every day thereafter, until it is spicy and flavorful enough for your taste. Strain and bottle.

Featured photo: Maple Daiquiri. Photo by John Fladd.

Blueberry and white chocolate scones

Last week might have been the end of my three-part biscotti series, but it was not the end of my baking theme. As we head toward spring, we know there is still some winter weather in our plans. Why not ward off the chilly feel with a homemade baked good to start a weekend morning? That is where these blueberry and white chocolate scones come into play.

What makes these treats a wonderful start to the day is the small amount of time and effort required. From gathering ingredients to taking your first bite is about 45 minutes. Better than driving to your local bakery, you can make these in your pjs and enjoy the amazing aromas as they bake!

A few cooking tips for this recipe: If you use frozen blueberries, expect your dough to have a blue hue. It’s just aesthetic, not a big deal. You don’t have to buy buttermilk to make these scones. It can be hard to find a container that small. Check the bottom of the recipe for my shortcut. Finally, if you have salted butter, it will work. Just reduce the salt from 1/2 to 1/4 teaspoon.

Let the baking continue!

Blueberry and white chocolate scones
Makes 8

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup plus 2 Tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 Tablespoons chilled, unsalted butter, diced
3/4 cup white chocolate chips
3/4 cup blueberries fresh or frozen
3/4 cup buttermilk*
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Mix flour, 1/3 cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.
Add butter.
Combine dry ingredients and butter using a pastry blender (or two forks) until the butter is reduced to the size of grains of rice.
Add white chocolate chips and berries to flour mixture, tossing gently.
Whisk buttermilk, egg yolk and vanilla in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl.
Add liquids to dry ingredients, stirring until the dough forms a ball.
Place dough on a lightly floured surface and press into an 8-inch round, using well-floured hands.
Cut into 8 wedges. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar.
Transfer wedges to a rimmed baking sheet, preferably lined with parchment paper.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the scones are crusty on top and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
Serve warm.

*In lieu of buttermilk, you can combine 1 tablespoon lemon juice and enough milk (I’ve used both cow and almond milks with success) to equal 3/4 cup. Allow to sit for 5 minutes before using in the recipe.

Featured Photo: Blueberry and white chocolate scones. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Megan Kurs

Megan Kurs is the owner of The Yolk Grill (116 Bridge St., Pelham, 635-0992, theyolkgrill.com), a family restaurant that opened in the fall of 2019, offering breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Originally known as Alicia’s Diner, the eatery was first owned by Kurs’s stepsister’s dad, Roger Chagnon, and she worked there when she was younger. Benedicts, omelets, burgers and sandwiches are all part of the menu, while other items have their own unique twist, from Oreo cookie-filled pancakes and Captain Crunch French toast to Tater Tot nachos and Buffalo chicken and waffles. The Yolk Grill is also known for its monthly rotating freakshakes: flavored milkshakes stacked with all types of candies and baked goods.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Definitely a spatula, no matter what position on the line I am in.

What would you have for your last meal?

It would be a filet with asparagus and mac and cheese. That’s my favorite meal, and it’s my go-to when we go out to eat.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

We enjoy going to the Old School Bar & Grill in Windham. It just has a really good atmosphere.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

We like to cook chicken Parm. Just a regular ziti with some hand-breaded chicken.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

If I’m looking for something sweet, then it’s the Captain Crunch French toast, but if I’m really hungry I’ll have the rib-eye and eggs with loaded home fries.

What celebrity would you like to see eating in your restaurant?

Sandra Bullock or Ryan Reynolds. Either one of them. My favorite movie is The Proposal, which they are both in, but I love watching any of their other movies.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I feel like right now what’s super trendy are the sampler-style [items]. Right now, we have four different alcohol flights, like a mimosa or bloody mary flight, and then I’ve seen a couple of other places do food flights. … People like to have different things they can take pictures for and post them on social media and tag us and things like that.

Homemade brown gravy
From the kitchen of Megan Kurs of The Yolk Grill in Pelham

1 pound unsalted butter
2 cups white all-purpose flour
1 container beef base
1 can beef broth
Kitchen Bouquet browning and seasoning sauce (optional)

Melt butter in a pot. Once melted, whisk in flour to make a roux. Cook roux on low heat until simmering. Whisk frequently. Add beef broth and bring to a boil. Add two tablespoons of beef bask and whisk frequently. Continue cooking on low heat while your gravy thickens. For a darker color, add a splash or two of Kitchen Bouquet.

Featured photo: Megan Kurs. Courtesy photo.

Pizza perfection

Ray Street Pizza on Main now open in Goffstown

Beau Gamache has spent the last several years mastering the art of pizza-making. In 2017 he started an Instagram account called “ThePizzaGram,” where followers could watch his journey creating dough, sauces and cheese blends. Eventually it became known as Ray Street Pizza (named after Gamache’s Manchester street), and in early 2020 he made the leap to host a series of pop-ups at what was then Brookstone Park in Derry.

“That was the first real kind of movement toward this becoming an actual business,” Gamache said. “I believe it was in March of that year when I moved to the ghost kitchen at Bayona [Cafe in Manchester] … and it kind of blew up from there, so I quit my day job.”

Meanwhile, the pop-ups continued — Gamache branched out to other locations across New Hampshire with a mobile setup, notably at breweries like Concord’s Lithermans Limited. But he knew that with his growing popularity came the need for a larger, permanent space.

Enter Ray Street Pizza on Main, now open in the former Vikster’s Pizza storefront in Goffstown. With the help of chef Jon Talbot, whom he has worked with on pop-ups and catering events, Gamache now has a regular brick-and-mortar spot where you can try many of the pizza recipes he has spent years perfecting. Even though it’s technically on Main Street, Gamache said he decided to keep his existing name simply because “too many people knew about it” by that point.

“Everyone thinks my name is Ray too, which is pretty funny,” Gamache said. “Someone would be like, ‘Hey, where’s Ray?’ so eventually I was just like, ‘It’s OK, I can be Ray.’”

Since the space was a turnkey operation, Gamache ended up inheriting some equipment, including the conveyor oven, which he said was different from the Ooni ovens he was used to.

“We had to adjust a few things in the dough … [by] just updating the recipe enough so that it cooks well and it looks nice,” he said. “We had to change the type of pans they were cooked on, and the proofing process is different now because it’s cooked at a different temperature.”

Aesthetically, Gamache described his pizza as being similar to a New York-style, while the dough itself more closely resembles a New Haven-style, due, he said, to its wet and soft texture.

The menu mostly combines pies Gamache had been dabbling in at the ghost kitchen with newer versions of some non-pizza items that had previously been available at Vikster’s.

“I wanted at least a majority of the menu to still be available for the folks who come in for lunch but don’t get pizza,” he said. “It’s just been updated in terms of quality, and quantity too. We add more steak in the steak and cheese [and] more chicken in the grilled chicken sandwich. … We’ve also upped the small size for pizzas. They used to be 10 inches, and they are 12 now.”

Slices of cheese and pepperoni pizza can usually be ordered Monday through Friday until about 4 p.m. A lineup of domestic and local craft brews is available, and Gamache is currently working toward implementing a full-service bar, which will additionally have wines and cocktails.

For the long term, Gamache has his hopes set on opening a flagship restaurant in a larger city.

“I want to do something kind of like Roberta’s in Brooklyn, where you walk in and you see this giant pizza and you can watch people make the pizza,” he said. “The menu would be tiny, just a handful of pizzas and maybe some small appetizers or salads and a nice big bar. … I think there’s something to be said about making pizza that’s so good that you don’t serve anything else and yet it’s busy, and Roberta’s is incredible.”

Ray Street Pizza on Main
Where: 23 Main St., Goffstown
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (hours may be subject to change)
More Info: Visit raystreetpizza.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @raystreetpizza or call 497-8211
Local deliveries are available within about a five-mile radius.

Featured photo: Margherita pizza. Courtesy photo.

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