Author: Henry Homeyer

Thoughts on having a great garden

This is a good time for all of us to stop and reflect on how we garden. Are we creating lovely-looking spaces but failing to support pollinators, birds and wildlife? What about the environment? Can we do more? If so, how can we improve? Here are a few of my thoughts.

First, I would recommend that native plants dominate our gardens. I’d say 80 percent of our plants (or more) should be native, especially trees. Why? Because they do the best, by far, at supporting wildlife — feeding birds and providing food and shelter for animals. Oaks, the best tree of all for wildlife, support nearly 1,000 species of butterflies and moths. But many species of landscape trees and shrubs are from China or Japan, and many only support a handful of species. All plants are not created equal.

Caterpillars of moths and butterflies feed on the leaves of our native trees and shrubs and are what are fed to baby birds. That’s right, even seed-eaters feed caterpillars to their young because they are full of protein and fat that baby birds need to thrive.

I think we all should avoid chemicals in the garden — and not just the vegetable garden. Rachel Carson taught the world that DDT, a powerful insecticide widely used in the 1950s, was killing off our eagles. But all chemicals used in the garden disrupt natural growth processes — and can adversely affect us, too. Even something as seemingly bland as 10-10-10 fertilizer is only 30 percent fertilizer — the makeup of the rest is deemed “proprietary information.” So we don’t know what chemicals are used in it. And the salts in fertilizer are lethal to many microorganisms.

Even pesticides that are derived from plants would be banned, if I ran the world. Yes, they are listed for use by organic growers, but many of them are non-specific killers. Both rotenone and pyrethrins are “organic” but very toxic to bees, others to fish and toads. I guess I would make you pass a test about the pros and cons of any pesticide before you could buy it! Go to thespruce.com for a nice online evaluation of organic pesticides.

Sure, the Japanese beetles can be pesky. But do you really want your kids and dogs playing on a lawn with pesticide residue on it? I don’t. Plants do fine with organic techniques. Pick off those dang beetles and drown them in soapy water.

Want to make your gardening easier? Don’t let your weeds make seeds. Seeds can last years, waiting patiently for you to decide to go to the beach for a week in August. Then they will germinate and grow like crazy, making you go crazy when you come back and see the gardens full of weeds.

The real solution is to learn to weed properly, have a tool that works well for you, and spend time doing it every day from April to October. We brush our hair and teeth every day, so why can’t we do a little weeding every day? Even 20 minutes six days a week will make a huge difference. The CobraHead weeder is the best tool I know for getting roots out and removing weeds.

What else? Know your own capacity. Don’t have the local farmer plow up your entire back lawn to make your first vegetable garden. Start small, enjoy what you have, don’t work until your back hurts and your hands have blisters. If possible, garden with a loved one or friend. For me, gardening with another is always enjoyable.

And then this: Create biodiversity in the landscape. Put some flowers in with your veggies and veggies in with the flowers. Artichokes or purple kale will look great in your flower bed. Marigolds in the vegetable garden are thought by some to repel certain pests. An acre of cabbage will attract loopers that might not find one or two plants. A biodiverse garden supports more creatures of all sorts, including beneficials.

Build a compost pile. You don’t have to obsess about the carbon/nitrogen ratio or take its temperature weekly with a long compost thermometer the way some gardeners do. Just add green and brown materials to it in layers. Add some grass clippings to get it heating up and breaking down leaves and dead weeds.

Never add invasive weeds to your compost pile. Things like goutweed or Japanese knotweed, or anything with seeds. Turning a compost pile does add oxygen, which will help the breakdown of materials, but I rarely have time to do so. Don’t be afraid to buy good compost if you don’t have enough.

Think about the size of your lawn. Does it need to be so big? Could you plant some native trees or shrubs? Once established, trees are very little work. They provide shade and cool the air in summer, and fix carbon in the soil — carbon that otherwise would be contributing to global warming.

Add some hardscape to your property: stone walls, a bird bath, some sculpture or a few places to sit and relax. Things that can stay out all winter and look good against the snow are nice — after all, winter is long here in New England.

Grow enough food that you can share some. Go meet your new neighbors across the street or the elderly widow who no longer grows veggies. But don’t just give away zucchini. Grow enough tomatoes, potatoes and garlic to share with others.

Lastly, take a few moments every day to walk through the garden, pausing to look at the beauty, not just the weeds. Find time to sit and reflect on how lucky you are to have a nice garden.

Featured photo: Oaks are pretty for us and food for caterpillars and wildlife. Courtesy photo.

Some flower shows will go on

Usually at this time of year I am planning my travel to the various flower shows around New England: Boston, Connecticut or Vermont. Perhaps Maine. Not this year. Most of the shows have been put off due to Covid, including the Boston Show, which was canceled recently.

The Connecticut Flower Show website says it will be the only major flower show in New England, and it will take place Feb. 24 to Feb. 27 at the Connecticut Convention Center in Hartford. Tickets cost $20 for adults on the day of the event, or $16 if purchased in advance (which will avoid the wait in line). Children ages 5 to 12 are $5, and children under 5 are free. The Convention Center has been upgraded to minimize risk of Covid transmission and state and local regulations will be followed.

The show is always known for having lots of educational workshops. This year is no exception: There are some 80 presentations, including organic lawn care, container gardening, floral arranging and pollinator gardens, among others.

One talk that caught my eye is by a friend of mine, Len Giddix: “It’s Rain Gutter Gardening: Sprouts, Herbs and Greens without Draining Your Wallet.” I called Len, who explained that he uses 4-inch pots in a 10-foot section of gutter partially filled with potting mix. It’s tidy and can produce a lot of greens. And no, the gutter is not up high; it’s along the edge of a walkway. Sounds slick! He’ll repeat his demo every day.

The show will have all the usual vendors selling seeds, plants, cut flowers, air plants, tick protection products, beekeeping supplies, garden tools and more. Organizations like the Rose Society will be there, and other nonprofits.

Next there is the Chelsea Flower Show in London from May 24 to May 28. This show has always been held outdoors and is known for the lavish gardens built by world-famous designers, often using mature trees and shrubs. There are, of course, tents, one of which would easily accommodate Barnum and Bailey at its heyday. My wife and I attended in 2017.

The magnificence of the show is startling: hundreds of fresh blossoms in perfect form in many of the booths. New introductions of named varieties are on display. Actress Judi Dench got a lovely apricot-colored rose named after her by David Austin the year I attended, and as press, I got to see her accept the honor. The chief executive of Burpee Seeds, George Ball, was in the Burpee booth, greeting us and answering questions. There was even a cute little robot cutting the lawn in one booth. The show covers many acres.

If you decide to go, I recommend joining the Royal Horticultural Society for 50 pounds ($67.50 at current exchange rate). The membership gets you admission to the show for two days before it opens to all, a 10-percent discount on all tickets, and other benefits including their quarterly magazine. I went on the first membership day and it was quite crowded, so I can’t imagine what it is like when the show is open to the public. I recommend attending at least two days to see it all, which is what we did.

Daily tickets for adults cost about $55, with Saturday at about $116. But if you can afford it, go! It’s a once in a lifetime experience. And women: Bring your most colorful garden hat and a flowered dress as the British women love to dress up for the show — and you don’t want to appear like the poor “country cousin.”

Then there is the Philadelphia Flower Show, which will be held outdoors from June 11 to June 19 at South Philadelphia’s Franklin Delano Roosevelt Park. The show, which was first organized by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society in 1829, will include 15 acres of this large park with majestic trees and views of the waterfront. By holding the show outdoors in early summer, exhibitors will be able to include larger landscape material than an indoor event, much as the Chelsea Flower Show does.

I have attended the Philly show in the past, and always was thoroughly “wowed.” One aspect of the show that I love is the competitions that allow ordinary gardeners to strut their stuff, competing for ribbons for best house plants, flower arrangements, specialty plants and more. Then of course there are the displays made by professional landscapers, stone workers and designers. And more garden geegaws than you can imagine are for sale.

Bring an umbrella or raincoat, just in case of a shower. There are tents, but much is outdoors. The large outdoor venue should keep attendees well socially distanced.

Admission is $45 for adults, $30 for young adults (18 to 29), and $20 for kids 5 to 17. Go to the website to read more about gala events and early morning tours: phsonline.org/the-flower-show

Covid has limited what we can do and see, but there are still a few places to go if you hanker for a good garden show. And maybe next year they will all be back to normal.

Featured photo: Calla lillies at the Chelsea Flower Show. Photo courtesy of Henry Homeyer.

And other less drastic ways to deal with Japanese knotweed

I’m a lucky guy: I have no Japanese knotweed. Many is the gardener who has emailed me asking, “What can I do to get rid of Japanese knotweed?” My usual answer? Sell the house.

Japanese knotweed, commonly called bamboo because of its hollow, segmented stems, goes by a number of scientific names, most commonly Polygonum cuspidatum. The leaves are heart-shaped and alternate on the stems, which can reach up to 10 or even 15 feet tall. It was introduced from Japan as a landscape plant in the late 1880’s, and was sometimes planted for erosion control, but quickly proved invasive.

Japanese knotweed spreads easily; its rhizomes (roots) can go 90 feet or more, even popping up through asphalt or pushing through house foundations. I talked to someone who tried to dig out a patch that had been growing for decades by using a backhoe; he quit after digging down 8 feet because he saw roots going even deeper!

Japanese knotweed blooms in early fall with white blossoms that attract bees and other pollinators. The small seeds are carried by wind, water or animals, though research shows that seeds are not usually how it propagates. It spreads by root — even a small bit of root can create a new patch of knotweed, so it is a problem along streams and rivers because flooding can send its invasive roots to new sites miles away. Sometimes highway departments move soil with roots, and it spreads.

Invasive plants (like knotweed) are defined as those coming from a different continent with few or no natural predators here. The bugs that eat purple loosestrife or Japanese knotweed did not come with them when they first made it to our shores. Invasives spread rapidly and can outcompete our native plants for sun, moisture and soil nutrients.

Most invasives can grow in sun or shade in wet or dry soil. They do not need that dark, organic matter-rich soils that we offer our peonies. Invasives, generally, can grow in your gravel driveway if given half a chance.

Most invasives are hard to control for several reasons. Most have extensive root systems that spread far and wide, and are often brittle. Trying to dig out the roots generally results in new plants from scraps of root that broke off, and that is certainly the case for knotweed.

I recently called Pete Butler, an arborist living in Stockbridge, Vermont, to talk about Japanese knotweed. Last summer I visited one of his projects, a public park along the Ottauquechee River in Woodstock, Vermont, to look at his efforts controlling knotweed.

Pete said that the best time to attack a patch of knotweed is in the fall, when the plants are less vigorous and new shoots are less likely to grow after the roots are disturbed. Dig out root masses to get as much root as possible. The roots show bright orange if scraped with your shovel. They are woody and large in a well-established patch. “You’re not going to dig it all out successfully. But taking away a lot of the root mass is like a good punch in the nose,” according to Pete.

He emphasized that you should never get rid of your excavated knotweed roots by taking them away. Destroy them on site by burning them. He takes dead trees, branches from pruning and other wood products to start a hot bonfire that will destroy the knotweed. If you truck it away, it will start growing elsewhere, spreading the problem.

After digging, he said, add some competition. He uses winter rye, planting in the fall. It scavenges nitrogen and starts rebuilding soil that the knotweed has depleted. He also adds fertilizer to improve the soil. In spring the winter rye starts growing early, as does the knotweed. The grass stabilizes the soil and helps re-introduce microbial life, he said.

Getting a soil test will help you determine how badly your soil has been degraded by the knotweed so you can improve it. In the spring he likes to add more grass seeds, particularly sheep fescue and hard fescue. These grasses compete with the little sprouts of knotweed from root scraps that evaded your digging. He does not mow the grasses, which are relatively short.

Pete explained that he uses an IPM or Integrated Pest Management approach to controlling knotweed, including micro-doses of herbicides, just “ounces per acre.” He is licensed to apply pesticides, to help in the process, but cautions that homeowners should not attempt using herbicides. Even herbicides like Roundup, widely touted as safe, can have negative impacts on beneficial plants and soil fungi.

Getting control of a knotweed infestation will take at least three years, Pete said, and each year he uses less herbicide. The “shelf life” of the roots is about nine years, he said, after which they will no longer be viable. Until that time, a site needs to be carefully monitored and appropriate steps taken each year.

When I visited his knotweed control site last summer Pete showed me how competition can help control knotweed. He planted a clump of hemlocks about 6 feet tall, shoulder to shoulder, after removing knotweed roots. They effectively outcompeted the knotweed, even if not completely eliminating the few new shoots that appear each year. He applies micro-doses of herbicide to finish it off.

Knotweed does best in full sun and moist soil, so creating shade near a site will slow it down some. And human activity can discourage it, too. High foot traffic will slow it down.

So maybe you don’t have to sell your house just because you have knotweed. But be prepared to battle it for years. And for those of us committed to organics, we may have to live with a little knotweed.

Featured photo: Japanese knotweed is an attractive plant, but nearly impossible to get rid of. Courtesy photo.

Gardening book sparks new ideas

Here in New England winter is long, especially for gardeners. We want to be outside in the garden but most days we can’t really do much. I compensate by learning about gardening from books. I recently finished a good one, Hummelo: A Journey Through a Plantsman’s Life by Piet Oudolf and Noel Kingsbury.

At over 400 pages it might seem daunting, but I’d estimate that nearly half of those pages are color photos of the gardens Piet Oudlof designed, with plenty from his home in Hummelo, Holland. It is written by Noel Kingsbury, a well-known British garden writer, and by Oudlof himself.

Piet (which is pronounced Pete) Oudolf was the primary designer of the High Line Gardens in New York City, a garden planted on a section of an abandoned elevated railway line in midtown Manhattan. This 1.45-mile planting is consistently rated in the Top 10 most visited places in New York City.

The book follows Oudolf’s life as a garden designer and plantsman. In addition to the High Line, he designed gardens in Chicago, Detroit and many in Europe. The book follows his professional life and illustrates the changes nicely. Many plants in the photos are not labeled, but more advanced gardeners will recognize them, and many are mentioned in the text. And although some common names are used, most are identified by the scientific names with the genus, species and cultivar, which I find helpful when studying the plants and finding out if the plants are hardy in my zone.

So what makes Piet Oudolf one of the most famous garden designers ever? First, he is a highly accomplished plantsman. When he specifies plants for a garden, he knows what they need to do well. He started out with his wife, Anja, growing most of the plants he used in his designs, often growing and selecting plants for years before using them.

He knows each plant including its root system and its capability to fill in spaces by seeding in or spreading by rhizomes. He grew and used plants that were largely disease-resistant. His gardens rarely need to be re-planted because the plants seldom fail. I should note that now he does not grow his own plants, he just specifies them and has others grow them for him, often from stock he perfected.

Piet Oudolf uses many tall grasses in his designs. He loves the way they provide structure and form to a design, and that they last well into winter. He is less interested in color than many designers. He loves the look of seed heads and stems after the (relatively short) bloom period is over. He is quoted in the book as saying, “A plant is only worth growing if it also looks good when it is dead.” Since he bred plants for toughness, I assume he means dormant, not dead.

Oudolf is a rule-breaker. He tried things that others had not. He is quoted as saying in the book, “I discover beauty in things that on first sight are not beautiful. It is a journey in life to find out what real beauty is — and to notice that it is everywhere.”

Early on in his career, Piet Oudolf used large blocks of a single species of a plant. But as he refined his designs, he started intermingling a few large, tall plants inside a block. He planted them repeatedly, as repetition adds a sense of unity and coherence to a garden. Unlike many designers, he actually lays out his gardens himself instead of drawing a plan and handing it off to gardeners. Oudolf is first and foremost a gardener. He loves plants, and knows them like his ever-present dogs.

What did I learn from this book? Given a large space to design, like Oudolf, I would use largely native plants. They are tough and if properly sited will last well. I like his philosophy that plant diversity is good but that too much diversity can overwhelm our ability to appreciate the whole.

I am, by temperament, a plant collector — I want to try lots of plants. But seeing the photos of Oudolf gardens, I recognize that buying — or growing — several plants instead of just three (my usual purchase), I can create a more powerful display.

Reading this book I made notes of plants I want to try. Among these is Eryngium giganteum, a sea holly that gets to be 3 to 4 feet tall with spiny egg-shaped blossoms and white bracts. Miss Willmott’s Ghost is readily available online, though I have never seen it for sale in a nursery.

Another plant that looks great is Agastache nepetoides, yellow giant hyssop. It is deer-resistant and big: It grows to 6 feet tall with flower spikes up to 16 inches long. In fall and winter the dry seed heads are fabulous, particularly in counterpoint to dry grasses.

I feel blessed that I was able to meet Piet Oudolf and interview him at his home in Hummelo, Holland, in 2007. He was very generous with his time and his knowledge.

This wonderful book was produced by Monacelli Press and is available in paperback for $40. To me, or any serious gardener or designer, it is a treasure. You might like to thumb through it before you decide if it is for you, especially if you are a beginning gardener. If you have big spaces to fill, you will get many ideas.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Plan what you’ll plant

I am probably not the only person who is determined to lose a little weight after all those delicious but fattening meals and desserts served up over the holidays. One way to feel satisfied and lose weight is to eat more salads and enjoy more vegetables. That’s my plan, anyway, and I recently took stock of what is lingering on in my storage fridge. I still have some nice veggies from summer that still taste good and are satisfying my hunger.

Digging around the vegetable drawer I noticed several kohlrabi I grew last summer, but that had not been touched in months. I was prepared not to like them because they had been stored so long. I peeled one, chopped it into half-inch cubes, and added to my nightly salad. It was delicious! It’s even tasty as low-calorie snack food just by itself.

Kohlrabi is in the cabbage family, but not well-known or much grown. It looks like a space alien in the garden: It is an above-ground root vegetable of sorts. Round or oblong, it can be green or purple, with leaves poking out of the beet-like “tuber” on bare stems. It is crunchy, and tastes a bit like broccoli, which is in the same family. It can be used to make coleslaw when grated with carrots.

Buy a packet of kohlrabi seeds and plant them in early June or late May. They are fast-growing plants and only need a bit of space to grow well. If you want kohlrabi all winter for adding to stir-fries, plant a green one called ‘Kossak,’ which gets large — up to 8 or 10 inches in diameter — and stores for up to four months in a cool, high-humidity place like the vegetable drawer of your fridge. I get seeds from Johnny’s Selected Seeds in Maine, but it is also available from High Mowing, Gurney’s and Park Seeds, among others.

I also found half a purple cabbage that had been lurking in my vegetable drawer since September. I expected it to be stale, but it was fine. Cabbage is easy enough to grow, but I often don’t bother because I don’t use it much — it is cheap and readily available. I grated some and added it to a green salad, adding color and bulk.

I had a great onion crop last summer. I buy onion plants from Johnny’s Seeds most years instead of babying seed-started plants indoors. When I start from seed, I start them under lights around March 1. When I start my own, even with intense light close to the seedlings, they are always a bit flimsy. Some of the plants I get from Johnny’s are nearly as thick around as a pencil, and take off and start growing immediately. The kind I grow are yellow onions, one called Patterson. They keep for months in a cool location, but will sprout and soften if left in the warm kitchen in a bowl.

The plants come in bundles of 50 to 60, according to their catalog, but last year I got closer to 100 plants per bundle. Onions don’t like competition, so weed early and often. Space your onions about 3 inches apart in the row, with rows at least 8 inches apart. They like fluffy, rich soil so be sure to add lots of compost and stir it in well. You can also start onions from “sets,” which are like little bulbs but less vigorous than plants.

What else am I eating from the garden now? Garlic. It is easy to grow, but if you didn’t plant any last October, you’re probably out of luck. It sets its roots in the fall, goes dormant, and pops up early in the spring. It is rarely available to purchase in the spring. I was out in California one spring and bought some soft-necked garlic in the spring, and it did fairly well here. You could try planting some of last year’s garlic, come spring, if you have any left over but it’s not recommended.

Potatoes are also a mainstay of my winter menu. I know, they are not usually recommended for dieters. But that is partly because of how they are served. They are a healthy starch, but many of us tend to load up potatoes with sour cream or butter. Add them to a stew or stir-fry, and they are still tasty but much less calorific.

I went 20 years once without buying a potato. I grew plenty, and saved out some for planting each spring. By only eating my own, I went a few months without any while waiting for my new crop to be ready. But it was a matter of principle to only eat my own. Commercial potatoes, if not raised organically or following IPM guidelines, can carry heavy pesticide loads.

The trick to getting lots of potatoes is to grow them in full sun. You can get potatoes where there is only six hours of sun per day, but the more sun, the more potatoes. And don’t let the potato beetles defoliate your plants. Check leaves, including the underneath side, for orange egg masses or larvae often when they are starting to grow. They can multiply exponentially if you let early beetles multiply.

Having a vegetable garden is, of course, a certain amount of work. But not only does it provide me with good, healthy, organic veggies; it also saves me lots of money and keeps me active in the garden. As we get older, the more exercise we get, the better. So start reading the catalogs or websites of seed companies, and plan what you will plant, come spring. Me? I can’t wait!

Featured photo: Try growing Kohlrabi this summer. They’re tasty and keep well. Courtesy photo.

Make the most of last year’s garden

Winter is upon us and it may seem there is little for a gardener to do. No weeding, nothing to plant, no flowers to pick. But last year’s garden may still have some remnants that, with a little imagination, can create something pleasing to the eye. I went out to my garden in early winter to see what dry flowers were still standing after my garden clean-up and saw plenty to work with. I picked a lot and set it all aside for making winter wreaths and arrangements.

I like wreaths, and in the past I have made them to decorate an outdoor space such as a blank wall or door. Instead of using a wire wreath form, as many people do with evergreen wreaths, I used grapevines to make the basic form for my wreath. You can, too.

Go to a wooded area and look for vines climbing a tree. Grape vines are common in hardwood forests, but often strangle trees, so removing some grapevine is actually a good thing to do. Cut a 15-foot length of grapevine that is about as thick around as your ring finger. It is important to use living, not dead, vines; they are a greenish white inside and flexible. Dead vines are brittle, brown, and not suitable.

Begin by forming a vine circle 14 to 16 inches in diameter by overlapping (or twisting) one half of the vine over the other half — the same way you would start to tie your shoelaces. Then grasp one of the loose ends and weave it around the vine circle in loops, over and under, pulling it tight as you go. Then take the other end of the vine and weave it around the circle.

The great thing about this grapevine wreath is that you can just slide stems of dry flowers in between the vines and natural tension will hold them in place. In fact, I had to use a screwdriver to lift the vines at times in order to slide the stems in place. But I also use thin florist wire to tie together more delicate things like grasses and add them to the wreath.

Here are some of the plants I used in my winter wreath. Sedum “Autumn Joy” is a deep brown and stands up well in the winter garden. Fountain grass “Morning Light” provides a light brown, fluffy material, as the seed heads are still present. Mine got knocked over by ice earlier in the winter, and then after the ice melted, it stood back up again!

What else? Various hydrangeas have flower panicles that are dry and delicate but still attached at this time of year. I used some flowers from one called “Quick Fire.” I like it for wreaths because the panicles are not huge, the way many of the PeeGee hydrangeas are, or Annabelle. If your panicles are too big, you can prune parts off to make them more suitable for a wreath.

I wanted some greenery in the wreath and could have pruned off some twigs from either white pine or hemlock but had some Christmas fern right near the house and used that instead. I’m not sure how long it will hold up in a wreath, but it looks good now. Hemlocks tend to drop needles fairly quickly, but anything used as a Christmas tree would be fine — Balsam fir or blue spruce, or example. Or snip some stems off your Christmas tree when you take it down.

For color I went to my brook and gathered some winterberry growing alongside it. This shrub has bright red berries in winter, and although it prefers a moist location, it will grow in ordinary garden soil, too. In summer it is pretty ordinary looking, but is fabulous when covered with red berries in winter. You need both male and female plants to get berries. One male is fine for five females.

The last addition to my winter wreath were some stems of teasel, a biennial weed hated by Midwestern corn farmers. It gets in their machinery and gums up the works — and it grows 6 feet tall. The flowers and seed heads are 2-inch cylinders that are very prickly. The stems have thorns, but these can be rubbed off while wearing gloves, making them easier to work with.

Because teasel is a biennial, it is easy to control: I pull most of the first-year plants when they are small. I leave just a few to grow and produce flowers. Six plants or so are nice. They stand up all winter and contrast well with the snow.

If you are not interested in making a wreath, or don’t have the time, pick some stems of anything interesting still standing in the garden, and put them in a dry vase. I leave some flowers with seed heads for the goldfinches and juncos to munch. Things like black-eyed susans and purple coneflower are nice for them. I always leave some snakeroot, too, as it is a tall plant that stands above the snow.

Lastly, if you are looking for dried flowers to decorate with, don’t forget the weeds. Walk through an un-mowed field and you will see plenty of dry flowers standing proud in the snow. Or take a walk along a country road and look for shrubby things with interesting branches or seed pods. With a little imagination, they can be used to create beauty.

Featured photo: Winter wreath with a dusting of snow. Courtesy photo.