By John Fladd
A brief lesson in food science
There is a trick that some bartenders use called “fat washing.”
It means is that anything that is soluble in fat is usually soluble in alcohol, and vice versa. For the past decade or so, really dedicated bartenders have used this fairly random chemistry fact to bring together bourbon and bacon, or rum and brown sugar.
This recipe turns that process on its head. Fresh mint is steeped in warm melted butter, which strips the mint’s minty mintiness away to give a startlingly delicious flavor note to these deeply chocolatey cookies.
Chocolate Mint Crinkle Cookies
A rubber or silicone spatula will make this recipe easier.
4 Tablespoons (half a stick) butter
¼ cup (28 g) fresh mint leaves and stems, chopped
¾ cup (90 g) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (21 g) cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder – if you don’t remember the last time you bought baking powder, it’s time to replace yours
¼ teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
½ cup (106 g) brown sugar
1 egg
4 ounces (114 g) bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate – I like the chocolate chips from Trader Joe’s; they have a cocoa content of about 53% and a nice deep flavor
¼ cup or so of granulated sugar
½ cup or so of powdered sugar
Melt the butter with the chopped mint in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, and simmer until “fragrant,” which is recipe language for “Don’t burn it, but cook it until you can smell the mint.” The mint will cook down like spinach. Remove the saucepan from the heat, and let the mint steep in the melted butter for half an hour.
In a small bowl, combine the flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt. Set it aside until you need it.
Melt the chocolate in the microwave, 20 seconds at a time, stirring until all the lumps disappear.
After the butter and mint have spent half an hour getting to know each other better, use a fine-mesh strainer to strain the butter into the bowl of your stand mixer. If the butter has set up a little reheat it briefly on the stove to remelt it.
Beat the melted butter and brown sugar until they are thoroughly integrated — maybe three minutes on medium speed. Add the egg — just the inside, not the shell — then the melted chocolate. Reduce the mixer to its lowest speed, and add the flour mixture — a couple of spoonfuls at a time, so it doesn’t poof up in your face — just until everything is barely mixed together.
At this point take a good look at your cookie dough. If it is stiff and PlayDoh-like, you can move on to the baking phase. If it is a little loose, put it in the refrigerator for half an hour or so to stiffen up.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Divide the dough into balls of one tablespoon each, about the size of a ping-pong ball. Roll each of the balls in the granulated sugar, then in the powdered sugar, then transfer it to a baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Place the balls about 2 inches apart; with a little creative reordering, there should be room enough for all of them — about a dozen.
Bake the cookies on the middle rack of your oven for five minutes, then turn the baking sheet and bake for another five minutes, then remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the cookies cool thoroughly. They will have gratifying cracks and crevices across their tops, accentuated by the powdered sugar.
What you will have ended up with are dark, chewy, richly cocoa-y cookies with a minty flavor — but not minty like toothpaste, or breath mints, or mint-chip ice cream. These have a cool, fresh zing to them that makes them something special.
These are second-date cookies.
Featured photo: Chocolate Mint Crinkle Cookies. Photo by John Fladd.