Author: John Fladd

The Weekly Dish 25/02/27

News from the local food scene

By John Fladd

[email protected]

• New coffee shop: Two Moons Coffee and Curiosities has opened in South of the 6 Salon (155 Dow St., No. 102, Manchester, 782-7198, southofthe6.com). Described on the South of the 6 website as having a “spooky-vintage-bookstore vibe,” it serves coffees, teas, smoothies and baked-in-house pastries. Open Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

• Food donations and beer: To Share Brewing (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) will host a food drive to benefit the New Hampshire Food Bank (nhfoodbank.org) Saturday, Feb. 22, beginning at 5 p.m. Bring a donation and get a chance to spin To Share’s Prize Wheel for a chance to win awesome prizes.

• Worldly wines: Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host a free wine tasting with Tom from Pearl Lake on Saturday, Feb. 22, between 1 and 4 p.m. Taste four wines from around the world. The store is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. as well.

• Irish and delicious: Peddler’s Daughter (48 Main St., Nashua, 821-7535, thepeddlersdaughter.com) will host its Annual Guinness Dinner Wednesday, Feb. 26, from 6:30 to 9 p.m. There will be four beers, four courses and endless fun conducted by “Cicerone” Michael Reardon, New England Guinness Ambassador, with special guest speaker Malcolm Patterson from Diageo Guinness USA. Tickets are $65 each through eventbrite.com.

• Tea in history: Register now for a special tea lecture. The Cozy Tea Cart (104A Route 13, Brookline, 249-9111, thecozyteacart.com) will host a discussion on “The Social Impact of Tea in Our History,” beginning with the discovery of tea and the spread of tea throughout Europe, the tea trade with China and the Opium Wars, its impact on the U.S., and the First World War. Throughout the presentation, enjoy sipping teas from the major tea-producing countries. The lecture will take place Thursday, March 20, from 5 to 6:30 p.m., but registration is required at least two weeks in advance. Tickets are $30 per person through the Cozy Tea Cart website.

Chocolate Mint Crinkle Cookies

By John Fladd

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A brief lesson in food science

There is a trick that some bartenders use called “fat washing.”

It means is that anything that is soluble in fat is usually soluble in alcohol, and vice versa. For the past decade or so, really dedicated bartenders have used this fairly random chemistry fact to bring together bourbon and bacon, or rum and brown sugar.

This recipe turns that process on its head. Fresh mint is steeped in warm melted butter, which strips the mint’s minty mintiness away to give a startlingly delicious flavor note to these deeply chocolatey cookies.

Chocolate Mint Crinkle Cookies

A rubber or silicone spatula will make this recipe easier.

4 Tablespoons (half a stick) butter

¼ cup (28 g) fresh mint leaves and stems, chopped

¾ cup (90 g) all-purpose flour

¼ cup (21 g) cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder – if you don’t remember the last time you bought baking powder, it’s time to replace yours

¼ teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt

½ cup (106 g) brown sugar

1 egg

4 ounces (114 g) bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate – I like the chocolate chips from Trader Joe’s; they have a cocoa content of about 53% and a nice deep flavor

¼ cup or so of granulated sugar

½ cup or so of powdered sugar

Melt the butter with the chopped mint in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, and simmer until “fragrant,” which is recipe language for “Don’t burn it, but cook it until you can smell the mint.” The mint will cook down like spinach. Remove the saucepan from the heat, and let the mint steep in the melted butter for half an hour.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt. Set it aside until you need it.

Melt the chocolate in the microwave, 20 seconds at a time, stirring until all the lumps disappear.

After the butter and mint have spent half an hour getting to know each other better, use a fine-mesh strainer to strain the butter into the bowl of your stand mixer. If the butter has set up a little reheat it briefly on the stove to remelt it.

Beat the melted butter and brown sugar until they are thoroughly integrated — maybe three minutes on medium speed. Add the egg — just the inside, not the shell — then the melted chocolate. Reduce the mixer to its lowest speed, and add the flour mixture — a couple of spoonfuls at a time, so it doesn’t poof up in your face — just until everything is barely mixed together.

At this point take a good look at your cookie dough. If it is stiff and PlayDoh-like, you can move on to the baking phase. If it is a little loose, put it in the refrigerator for half an hour or so to stiffen up.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Divide the dough into balls of one tablespoon each, about the size of a ping-pong ball. Roll each of the balls in the granulated sugar, then in the powdered sugar, then transfer it to a baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Place the balls about 2 inches apart; with a little creative reordering, there should be room enough for all of them — about a dozen.

Bake the cookies on the middle rack of your oven for five minutes, then turn the baking sheet and bake for another five minutes, then remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the cookies cool thoroughly. They will have gratifying cracks and crevices across their tops, accentuated by the powdered sugar.

What you will have ended up with are dark, chewy, richly cocoa-y cookies with a minty flavor — but not minty like toothpaste, or breath mints, or mint-chip ice cream. These have a cool, fresh zing to them that makes them something special.

These are second-date cookies.

Featured photo: Chocolate Mint Crinkle Cookies. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Amanda Spooner

Chef at Honey Cup Tea Room in Manchester. Spooner is also a caterer and personal trainer. “I was raised in the restaurants with my dad. I was busing tables at 6, 7 years old and then, around 12, was doing catering with my aunt’s company, Sunshine Catering. … My first job out of high school was at the Black Brimmer as a hostess, then as a server and a bartender. Then I went to La Carreta and was a bartender over there, and then I had my first baby. At that time I took a different [path]. I started catering, but I also was intrigued with health and wellness so I ended up getting my certification to be a personal trainer. I’ve been in that industry, maintaining my certification for about 20 years now. My husband and I ended up opening up Big Kahuna’s Cafe and Grill out of Merrimack. I operated that for about 10 years. When Mara [Honey Cup owner Mara Witt] started thinking about the concept of having her own place, she came to me and asked if I would be up for helping her out. … I had full artistic, creative freedom with this. The only thing I had to really do was home in on how she wanted to see everything, how she wanted to feel. And from that point I was able to curate a menu.”

What is your must-have item in the kitchen?

All I need is fire. If I have fire, I can cook anything. We’ve done open pit cooking. I’ve done rustic-style cooking, open flame. An oven’s great, but I can cook anywhere with anything. And that’s probably my strongest suit as a chef. Also love. Love is what makes food great.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

I think the “Chaffle” is really cool — the loaded potato waffle with cheddar, egg and potato. But our turkey sandwiches are the bomb, with herb cream cheese. I love the fresh herbs. I add in sage, basil, and thyme, garlic, and just emulsify that all together. It’s magical.

What is a trend you are seeing in food in New Hampshire?

I think we’re seeing a lot more of the cultural foods — things like African cooking, things that are becoming trendy on TikTok. There’s more of an interest in the flavors from around the world, which I admire.

What would you have for your last meal?

Lobster. All the lobster I could stuff in my face.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

In the summertime, I love cooking over fire. Then in the fall with the harvest, the harvest vegetables, the produce is just so beautiful … I love making stews with bones and bone marrow; it’s just rich, hearty, nourishing quality food.

1940s Recession Chocolate Cake

This cake was popular during the Great Depression and World War II because it uses no eggs, butter, or milk—ingredients that were often rationed, so it’s also vegan!

Servings: 8-10
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cook Time: 30-35 minutes

Ingredients:
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons vegetable oil (or melted shortening)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon white or apple cider vinegar
1 cup water

Instructions:
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease an 8×8-inch baking pan lightly with oil or non-stick spray.
2. Mix dry ingredients: In the baking pan (or a mixing bowl), whisk together the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt.
3. Make wells: Using a spoon, make three small wells in the dry mixture—one for oil, one for vinegar, and one for vanilla.
4. Add liquids: Pour the oil, vinegar, and vanilla into their respective wells, then pour the water over everything.
5. Mix gently: Stir the ingredients until well combined, making sure there are no dry spots, but don’t overmix.
6. Bake: Place in the oven and bake for 30-35 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
7. Cool and serve: Let the cake cool in the pan before slicing. You can dust it with powdered sugar or top it with a simple icing if desired.

Featured Image: Amanda Spooner. Photo by John Fladd.

Shakes and teas

New shop offers beverages with purpose

By John Fladd

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Sean and Gina Wren picked a challenging location for a health-oriented business. PowerThirst, a shake and tea bar specializing in nutritional supplements, is located directly between a Mexican restaurant and a Domino’s Pizza on Mast Road in Goffstown. Two doors down is a tobacco and vape shop. On the other hand, there is a gym in the same plaza.

PowerThirst owner Sean Wren said the location has actually worked in their favor.

“We definitely have had a nice steady increase in traffic from the gym next door,” he said. “And then having the new Mexican restaurant next door [La Vaka Mexican Restaurant], it’s been fantastic, because I see so many people walking by, going into the restaurant, looking up, looking at our sign and looking in our window. I’ve had a number of people say, ‘Oh yeah, I was going to eat next door and I finally had a chance to stop by; I want to see what this place is all about.’”

What it is about is vitamin- and nutrient-enriched shakes and teas.

“PowerThirst is technically classified as a nutrition club,” Wren explained. “and what we provide are beverages for people who are looking to be more positive and health-minded. The teas have B vitamins, antioxidants, any number of our boosters for hydration, electrolytes, and things like collagen and different supplements to help with their overall health. The protein shakes provide protein and other nutrients. The goal is to keep everything tasting good, but also keeping it at a very low sugar content so people can be mindful of total caloric intake throughout the day.“

Customers order a tea drink or a shake at the counter, and the Wrens customize it according to flavor and the customer’s specific requirements. A long-distance runner might ask for different nutritional supplements than a power-lifter, for instance.

“If they have the time,” Wren said, “I would talk with them and ask them what they’re currently doing. And then just give them some general guidelines as to things they might want to try, because in the world of fitness and nutrition … everybody’s body’s different. There’s no cookie-cutter approach of ‘this is what you have to do if you want to be good at X’. It’s going to be a little bit different for everybody.”

Wren looks at his job as providing a counterbalance to some of the dubious nutritional information that many people are bombarded with.

“It’s a tough place to be if you’re someone who’s trying to get into fitness and you don’t have a lot of background in [nutrition],” he said. “Because while the internet is fantastic, you can find anything you could possibly imagine on there, and, there are a lot of charlatans out there and there’s a lot of people selling snake oil and just telling you this is the new hot thing that’ll change your life. My goal here is to provide people with the most simplified, straightforward answers to get them moving in the right direction and make a lot of those decisions for themselves and be as informed as possible. Because yes, you’ll have people who like a new supplement will pop up and everybody says it’s the greatest thing since sliced bread. And then a year goes by and all of the actual research comes out, it doesn’t do anything.”

That relaxed, comfortable attitude is reflected in the interior of PowerThirst. There is comfortable seating, and space for customers to sit and talk with each other or to take their time enjoying their drinks.

“I didn’t want to set this up and have it be too over-the-top gym health-related,” Wren said. Someone who doesn’t necessarily go to the gym all the time or is in that space would think, ‘Oh that’s not for me.’ We want to feel very welcoming to anybody who just enjoys a delicious beverage, wants to make some slight changes in their life, all the way up to people who are like hardcore athletes, gym goers, high school athletes.”

PowerThirst

Where: 553 Mast Road, Goffstown, 937-2412, powerthirstnh.com
When: Open seven days a week: Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Saturday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Featured photo: PowerThirst owner Sean Wren. Photo by John Fladd.

Kitchen futures

Culinary cards get you thinking about your day and your meals

By John Fladd

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There are any number of ways to get inspiration in the kitchen and to become more thoughtful about your food. Dawn Aurora Hunt has a new one: a deck of cards.

“This is the Kitchen Witch Culinary Oracle Deck,” Hunt said. “This is different from a tarot deck, because a tarot deck has suits and you’ll always have certain cards. This is a fun tool; you could use it for insight and inspiration, but you could use it just for cool recipe ideas.”

The Culinary Oracular Deck is a set of 50 large, illustrated cards, similar in appearance to tarot cards, each with a different kitchen ingredient or tool.

Hunt, the owner of Cucina Aurora Kitchen Witchery in Salem, spends a lot of time thinking deeply about cooking and the sharing of food.

“Everything I do is about cooking with love,” she said, “cooking with intention and finding a deeper meaning in food and our connection to food through the seasons and mindfulness.” It was this introspective examination that led to the development of her new Oracular Deck. “I was teaching classes on the deeper meanings of simple food ingredients for a while and people have been saying to me, ‘You know, this would make a really cool oracle deck, so that people could take the class and work with that information in an easy way.’ I have a couple of other cookbooks that I wrote that are sort of themed similarly; this has been a natural progression for that.”

Hunt used one of the cards as an example. “One way that you might use these cards would be in the morning while you are maybe having a cup of coffee or getting ready for your day, you might shuffle up the cards and pull one card out of the deck. Maybe you pull the card that says ‘eggs’. Eggs are associated with new birth, new life and fertility. So you might read about the symbolic meaning of eggs on the egg card, and it says that your endeavors are about to reap rewards. What have you been working on? What have you been working toward or fighting for? When the egg card shows up for you, things in your life are about to come together. So you can take that message into your day.”

Alternatively, Hunt said, you might not have eaten eggs in a while and this might simply inspire you to cook or eat something eggy. Each card has suggestions of dishes and a simple recipe. So you might find yourself making quiche for dinner. Almost all the recipes are ones that are easily customizable.

According to Hunt, that was a deliberate decision.

“I have a ton of food allergies,” she said. “So when I am creating recipes, I’m coming from a perspective of whether I can eat this and how people with other limitations might enjoy it. So there’s always comments in my recipes about how to make something gluten-free or how to make it dairy-free or if you’re vegan maybe you want to do this other thing. I try to make it as accessible as possible. I try to keep all of my recipes simple, accessible. And in most cases you probably already have 75 percent of the ingredients lying around your house. The truth is, the simpler the recipe, the simpler the ingredients — in my opinion — the better the meal is. The more we connect with those ingredients and the closer we are to Mother Earth and what Earth is giving us.”

Oracle Deck

A Kitchen Witch’s Culinary Oracle Deck: Gain Daily Insight and Bring Magic to Your Meals with Everyday Ingredients is available through the Cucina Aurora website, or where books are sold, and costs $24.95.

There will be a launch party for the deck at Moon River Wellness Center (17 Windham Road, Pelham, 635-8938, moonriverwellnesscenter.com) Sunday, Feb. 23, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Admission is free.

Featured photo: Dawn Aurora Hunt. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 25/02/20

News from the local food scene

By John Fladd

[email protected]

• New coffee shop: Two Moons Coffee and Curiosities has opened in South of the 6 Salon (155 Dow St., No. 102, Manchester, 782-7198, southofthe6.com). Described on the South of the 6 website as having a “spooky-vintage-bookstore vibe,” it serves coffees, teas, smoothies and baked-in-house pastries. Open Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

• Food donations and beer: To Share Brewing (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) will host a food drive to benefit the New Hampshire Food Bank (nhfoodbank.org) Saturday, Feb. 22, beginning at 5 p.m. Bring a donation and get a chance to spin To Share’s Prize Wheel for a chance to win awesome prizes.

• Worldly wines: Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host a free wine tasting with Tom from Pearl Lake on Saturday, Feb. 22, between 1 and 4 p.m. Taste four wines from around the world. The store is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. as well.

• Irish and delicious: Peddler’s Daughter (48 Main St., Nashua, 821-7535, thepeddlersdaughter.com) will host its Annual Guinness Dinner Wednesday, Feb. 26, from 6:30 to 9 p.m. There will be four beers, four courses and endless fun conducted by “Cicerone” Michael Reardon, New England Guinness Ambassador, with special guest speaker Malcolm Patterson from Diageo Guinness USA. Tickets are $65 each through eventbrite.com.

• Tea in history: Register now for a special tea lecture. The Cozy Tea Cart (104A Route 13, Brookline, 249-9111, thecozyteacart.com) will host a discussion on “The Social Impact of Tea in Our History,” beginning with the discovery of tea and the spread of tea throughout Europe, the tea trade with China and the Opium Wars, its impact on the U.S., and the First World War. Throughout the presentation, enjoy sipping teas from the major tea-producing countries. The lecture will take place Thursday, March 20, from 5 to 6:30 p.m., but registration is required at least two weeks in advance. Tickets are $30 per person through the Cozy Tea Cart website.

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