Discover new flavors

Find new favorites at New Hampshire Wine Week

New Hampshire’s biggest wine event, New Hampshire Wine Week, will take place from Jan. 17 through Jan. 23, culminating in the New England Wine Spectacular, a wine expo featuring more than 1,700 different wines from around the world. According to Justin Gunter, a wine specialist with the New Hampshire Liquor Commission, New Hampshire’s influence in the wine industry has grown continually over the past 20 years.

“The first Winter Wine Spectacular took place with a few winemakers sitting around a kitchen table and some dining,” Gunter said. “And it’s grown to be one of the largest wine events in New England. We’ve got an amazing array of winemakers that are coming here to New Hampshire. What the [Liquor] Commission has done over the course of the past 20 years has not only strengthened its wine offerings for consumers but, you know, really caught the attention of the entire wine industry.”

According to Gunter, over the course of New Hampshire Wine Week, wine representatives will make appearances throughout the state, building to two central events.

“We have winemakers coming from all over the world — winemakers, wine personalities, owners, people from all aspects of winery coming to our state to visit for Wine Week. They’ll be crisscrossing the state that week for wine dinners and bottle signings and two really great signature events: the Viva la France event as well as the Winter Wine Spectacular. So this is really a story about the evolution of not only this event and the growth of the event but also the state of New Hampshire’s prominence in the world of wine and the offerings that we’re able to provide to consumers.”

One of the goals of Wine Week is to expose wine enthusiasts to as large a variety of wines as possible. There will be offerings from huge, well-established producers and from small family-owned vineyards. “For instance,” Gunter said, “Randy Ullom of Jackson Family Wines will be at our event. He’s an icon in the industry, the head winemaker for Kendall-Jackson Wines, a very big name in the industry. He’ll be working directly with his table, which will have the Jackson family wines along with a couple of side projects that the Jackson family wines are doing that he’s heading as well. So you’ve got somebody like that who is taking time out of his schedule, probably with worldwide demands. And then you’ve got folks like Maria Helm Sinskey from Robert Sinskey Vineyards, who’s been coming here for decades. And they’ve got a much smaller winery but a really high-quality product. The thing to note is that they’re head winemakers. They’re involved in the industry; they’re involved in their wineries. These people have their hands in the dirt. They’re farmers. They’re heavily involved in every aspect of wine. Everybody who comes to this event will have an opportunity to get to speak with them and talk to them about their wine specifically and really pick their brains and celebrate wine.”

Despite the level of expertise on tap at the Wine Week events, Gunter said they are for wine enthusiasts of all levels of experience.

“These events are perfect for someone just getting to know wines all the way up to an aficionado,” he said. “These winemakers are so passionate about what they do, and the products that they make, they’re more than happy to guide you and ask you [about] the types you know and the flavor profiles you like. It really offers something for anybody at any end of the spectrum.”

The Wine Spectacular will fill a lot of floor space. “There’s actually two rooms that we’ve used for the past few years,” Gunter said. “There’s one room that is the primary expo that will have the vast majority of the tables. There are more than 200 tables of wines to choose from with up to 12 wines per table. That’s how we can get so many wines available for people to try. We also have the Bellman Cellar Select Room, which is for some more refined, more higher-end offerings. And there’s about 40 tables in that room as well. Along with that, we have food that will be prepared by local restaurants. And ultimately it all comes back to this, it’s really all garnered in passion. Every one of these people that you will meet, it’s not about explaining nuances of wine; it’s a passion for the product.”

Richard Jacob is an account manager with Vinilandia NH, a wine import company in Portsmouth focusing on niche, organic, family-owned and generational vineyards around the world. In his view, New Hampshire Wine Week is a way for wine professionals and enthusiasts to keep up with what is available in a constantly changing wine landscape.

“It’s a chance for distributors in the area that work with the Liquor Commission to get an opportunity to showcase some of their products,” Jacob said. “It’s really exciting because the wine in people’s portfolios are constantly changing, so it’s important that these events happen so people can get a fresh taste of the new vintages or the newest wines that have been added to the state. It’s a good opportunity for people to learn and see the types of wines that are around the corner.”

Jacob clarified the term “portfolio.” “The portfolio is pretty much our book,” he explained. “It’s the list of the wines that we sell. Our portfolio at Vinilandia, just as an example, has about 480 wines.” That can make keeping track of wines in New Hampshire easy to lose sight of, he said. And that makes events like NH Wine Week important to industry professionals and consumers alike, he said. Although wine sales in general have fallen recently, “companies that sell more independent winemaker products, family-run wineries, wines that have a story and that are sustainable …[those] are doing much better. I feel like there is a shift in the culture because people are realizing that these sustainably produced wines can compete with the pricing of mass-produced wines.” And events that bring story-worthy wines to the public’s attention benefit everyone.

Emma Round, owner of Unwined Wine Bar in Milford, says those wines-with-stories help her give value to her customers.

man standing behind table full of wine bottles, pouring wine into someone's cup, woman standing beside him
Previous Wine Week. Photo by Timothy Courtemanche

“I think frequently people see what there is in the liquor store,” Round said, “and their imagination can be limited by that.” They see the prices that restaurants have to charge for a bottle of wine, and wonder why they should pay so much more for a bottle that they could buy much less expensively on their own, she said. “But many of the wineries that are well-recognized have smaller portfolios of restaurant-only wines. These events give you the opportunity to see those, which is really important and it’s really good. I highly encourage the public to go to these things to kind of broaden their horizons. I know some of the restaurants try to do that ourselves, but I think when [wine producers] do that on their own back is awesome, too.”

Genevieve Wolfe is the Wine Director for Vine 32 Wine and Graze Bar in Bedford. She said New Hampshire Wine Week’s timing is auspicious.

“It’s fun for the restaurant side of things to have Wine Week [now],” Wolfe said, “because, obviously, with dry January, typically [wine sales] slow down a little bit. So Wine Week being in January is always great for us. It’s just a little bit of a push. We love serving new people and especially ones who want to explore. Those who are attending any of the Wine Week events that usually are the ones who are willing to kind of go outside the box from what they know. Having 32 taps [at Vine 32] allows us to really help them out of their comfort zone and to try something new. So we always look forward to Wine Week.”

19th Annual New England Winter Wine Spectacular
When: Thursday, Jan. 23, from 6 to 8:30 p.m.
Where: Doubletree Expo Center, 700 Elm St., Manchester, 625-1000
Tickets: There are three tiers of tickets available for the event: Bellman’s Cellar Select, which includes access to a VIP room, product samples, gourmet food pairings and early access to the main expo area, for $135; Grand Ballroom Advanced Entrance, which allows ticket holders early access to the main expo area, for $95 per person; and Grand Ballroom General Admission for $75.

Visit nhwineweek.com. Proceeds from the event go to support the New Hampshire Food Bank.

Sponsored by Pine State Beverage New Hampshire, the organizers of the Wine Spectacular will arrange for a safe ride home within 20 miles for any guest, free of charge.

French wine in the spotlight

The “Viva la France” wine tasting and panel discussion on Wednesday, Jan. 22, at the Manchester Country Club in Bedford will focus on French wines.

Three major importers and distributors of French wines will be on hand to lead guests through the breadth and subtleties of some of their favorite wines: Marnie Old, Director of Vinlightenment of Boisset Collections, Serge Doré, Wine Importer of Serge Doré Collections, and Dominique Giovine, SVP of iconic Moët Hennessy.

According to Justin Gunter, a Wine Specialist with the New Hampshire Liquor Commission, this event will be a special opportunity for wine enthusiasts to learn from experts.

“There’s going to be a cocktail hour,” Gunter said, “where we’ll be pouring two wines from each of these representatives and we’ll be able to mingle with and speak to the representatives and talk to them about these wines that they’ve brought. And then after that first hour at about 6:30 … they’ll be sitting at the front in a panel type of presentation and we’ll have hors d’oeuvres and some food pairings to go along with the different wines. These panelists will walk all of our guests through these expressions of these specific regions in France. And I’ve got to tell you they are pouring some powerhouse wines. In fact …I’ve received word that vintage Dom Perignon will be poured.”

Serge Doré will be one of the featured panelists. He is the owner of Serge Doré Collections, which specializes in importing boutique French wines. He is excited about this all-French event. “Well, ‘Vive la France,’ first of all, it’s a big statement,” he said, “because it is an expression that is very important. It’s a commitment. ‘Vive la France’ is like when we say over here in the U.S., ‘God bless America.’ It’s exactly the same thing, but Vive la France goes back to the revolution, and this goes to the best … of French wine.”

“The event on Thursday night is absolutely spectacular for the consumers,” Doré said, “because, when you prepare a dish, what do you do while you’re cooking it or baking it? You taste and you taste and you taste. There’s no other way to understand a product. It is the same thing with wine, but now with wine, you have to open a bottle to have a sip. So how many bottles can you open at night? There’s a limit to what we can do. But now when you go to an event like on Thursday, a public event, that’s the perfect time to come and understand or discover or confirm things that you know or things that you want to know. You go from table to table and you focus on something and you walk out of there and say, oh my God, I’ve tasted 62 different wines tonight and now I understand why I like this or why I don’t like that. Because at the end it becomes very personal. It’s a matter of taste.”

For Doré, French wines capture a celebratory approach to life, and this event is for people who have that same sort of outlook.

“As long as you have people that do enjoy wines, that’s all that matters,” he said. “People who enjoy life, that’s all that matters. People that enjoy time with family and friends at the table, that’s what we want to have. That’s what I want to see in front of me. Life is about being at the table, technically three times a day at the table. You don’t spend more time in your life anywhere else but on the table. When you sit down normally, you have guests at home, people are nice, they talk not too loud, but after a few sips of wine the sound goes up, down, the conversation is all over the place, one cuts the other one and it’s joy to joy of the moment. It is created by the wine, not by the food. You say cheers with a glass, not with a fork.”

Viva la France wine tasting and panel discussion
When: Thursday, Jan.22, from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m.
Where: Manchester Country Club, 180 S. River Road, Bedford, 624-4096, manchestercountryclub.com
Tickets: $65 at eventbrite.com

New Hampshire Wine Week events

Here are some of the events slated for NH Wine Week. See nhwineweek.com/events for updates.

Saturday, Jan. 18

  • Wine Dinner with Brian Pruett, Dry Creek Vineyards Winemaker from 6 to 9 p.m. at Wentworth By the Sea (588 Wentworth Road, New Castle, 422-7322, opalcollection.com/wentworth)

Wednesday, Jan. 22

  • Wine Tasting with Brian Pruett, Winemaker of Dry Creek Vineyards, noon to 2 p.m., NH Liquor and Wine Outlet, Portsmouth Store #38 (500 Woodbury Ave, Portsmouth Traffic Circle, Portsmouth, 436-4806, liquorandwineoutlets.com)
  • Wine Dinner with Brian Pruett, Dry Creek Vineyards Winemaker, 5 to 8 p.m., Martingale Wharf Restaurant (99 Bow St., Portsmouth, 431-0901, martingalewharf.com)
  • “Viva la France” Wine Tasting and Panel Discussion, 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., Manchester Country Club (180 S. River Road, Bedford, 624-4096, manchestercountryclub.com). See page 13.
  • Truchard Vineyards wine dinner at Prime at 6 p.m. Sky Meadow Country Club (6 Mountain Laurels Drive, Nashua, 888-9000, skymeadow.com)
  • Wine Tasting with Nicole Hitchcock, Winemaker of J Vineyards, 6 to 7 p.m., NH Liquor & Wine Outlet, Store #50 (Willow Spring Plaza, 294 DW Highway, Nashua, 888-0271, liquorandwineoutlets.com)
  • Wine Tasting with Battle Creek Winemaker Sarah Cabot, Winderlea Vineyard owners Bill Sweat and Donna Morris, and Peter Paul Wines Winemaker Mike Tracy, 6 to 7 p.m., NH Liquor & Wine Outlet,Store #69 (25 Coliseum Ave., Nashua, 882-4670, liquorandwineoutlets.com).
  • Wine Dinner with Joseph Spellman, Justin Vineyards and Winery Master Sommelier, 6 to 9 p.m., Coyote Grill (98 Valley Road, Waterville Valley, 236-4919, wildcoyotegrill.com)

Thursday, Jan. 22

  • 19th Annual New England Winter Wine Spectacular. 6 to 8:30 p.m., Doubletree Expo Center (700 Elm St., Manchester, 625-1000), nhwineweek.com

Other wine happenings

Here are some other wine related events in January.

  • Wine on Main (9 N. Main St. in Concord; wineonmainnh.com) has several wine events on its January schedule. A Wine of the Isles class will be offered Tuesday, Jan. 14, and Wednesday, Jan. 15, at 6:30 to 8 p.m. and focus on wines of the islands off the coast of Italy, Croatia, France and more ($35 per person). A free wine tasting will be held during Winterfest on Saturday, Jan. 25, from 1 to 4 p.m. There will also be a Cupcake and Wine Pairing on with sessions Wednesday, Jan. 29, and Thursday, Jan. 30, 6:30 to 8 p.m. ($35 per person).
  • Global Flights & Bites Series at The Grazing Room at Colby Hill Inn in Henniker, colbyhillinn.com, running Fridays, Jan. 17 through Feb. 7, 4 to 8 p.m. For $59 per person, enjoy a flight of three wines presented with four appetizers. Each week will feature a region: Jan. 17 is Portugal, Jan. 24 is the Mediterranean, Jan. 31 is West Coast and Feb. 7 is Japan.
  • Cakebread Cellars Wine Dinner a five-course wine dinner with speaker Niki Williams at Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way in Bedford; bedfordvillageinn.com) on Wednesday, Jan. 22, starting at 6 p.m. Price is $125 per person (plus tax and gratuity). Find the menu and the listings of wines to be paired online.
  • Savor the Season: Big Reds and Bold Flavors, a tasting of seven reds, at WineNot Boutique (25 Main St. in Nashua; winenotboutique.com) on Thursday, Jan. 30, from 6 to 8 p.m. Admission costs $45.
  • The 21st Annual Winter Wine Festival at Wentworth by the Sea (588 Wentworth Road in New Castle; opalcollection.com/wentworth, 422-7322) runs Friday, Jan. 17, through Sunday, Feb. 9. Happenings include a Big Tasting with MS Walker and Pine State on Friday, Jan. 17, 6 to 8:30 p.m. ($69.95 per person); a Vintner’s Dinner with Dry Creek Vineyards on Saturday, Jan. 18, at 7 p.m. ($99.95 per person); a Vintner’s Dinner with Jackson Family Wines on Saturday, Jan. 25, at 7 p.m. ($159.95 per person); a Vintner’s Dinner with Banfi Wines on Friday, Jan. 31, at 7 p.m. ($149.95 per person); Vintner’s Dinner with Orin Swift Cellars & Winery on Saturday, Feb. 8, at 7 p.m. ($149.94 per person); and a Bubbles and Jazz Brunch on Sunday, Feb. 9, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. ($69.95).

Wines to look for at NH Wine Week events this year

Here are some wines that the experts will be keeping their eyes on during this year’s New Hampshire Wine Week.

Justin Gunter, New Hampshire Liquor Commission
“We definitely have some smaller vineyards represented. We have Donna Morris and Bill Sweat; they’re the owners of Winderlea Vineyards in Oregon, and they make some beautiful, beautiful pinot noirs. It’s a smaller operation. They’re not one of the giant conglomerates.” Another producer Gunter is excited about is “Christof Höpler and the Höpler Winery. It’s not a massive operation, but it is worldwide and we do import a fair amount and they concentrate on more of the Zweigelt and rieslings and a lot of the German varietals.”

Richard Jacob, Vinilandia NH
“Recently we’ve had some wines that are from the northern part of Italy that we just brought on to our portfolio that are from this wonderful family with a fantastic [passion for] their culture and their history and their winemaking philosophy. Those kinds of connections are the things that help make a bottle of wine more special and not just, you know, a glass of alcohol. It just makes it good for conversation.”

Emma Round, Unwined Wine Bar
“I favor a lot of South African wines. The flagship grape of South Africa is a pinotage. So many people have never tried a pinotage because they don’t know what it is. It’s a fantastic grape. It’s delicious and it pairs well with so much food. So I try and lead people down paths like that. It’s the same for a plavac mali from Croatia, which is very similar to a pinot noir but with just a little bit more, a little bit more flavor. It’s far and above been one of my most popular cider glass wines. And most people have never heard of it before, but you give them a taste and they’re like, ‘Oh! It’s fun; it’s exciting.’ And wine should be like that. Life should be fun and exciting. It should be about trying new things.”

Genevieve Wolfe, Vine 32
“We have all classic examples that people would normally come in and ask for. But then I also like wines from Croatia or Slovenia, something a little bit different. We’re changing over our menu again in January, so I’m always excited to bring in new stuff that’s a little bit different, a little bit off the beaten path, so I can bring in those who might be set in their ways and kind of show them something different.”

Emma Stetson, owner of Wine on Main
“There is a wine importer called Massonais. They’re brand new to the state, and I’m looking forward to trying the new wines from them. They have a bunch of wines, but they specialize in eclectic, unique Italian wines. For example, they have a producer called Graci. They make Sicilian wines that are grown in volcanic soil, which is unique and fun. You can almost taste like that graphite, smoky character from the soil.”

Cucumber Sparkle Mocktail

By John Fladd

One of the dangers of recipes for meatless, sugar-free or zero-proof recipes is the frequent assurance that the finished product will be “just as good as the real thing.” If it really were just as good, the more virtuous version would be the default. A vegan pot roast will never be as good as your grandmother’s.

The problem with working around a dietary restriction is that most of us come at it from the point of view of taking something away from an already delicious dish, instead of starting from the ground up and adding ingredients that work on their own merits.

In this case, let’s start with an acidic — read “sour” — base. That will make this drink bracing and not too sweet. We could work with any type of citrus, but this time let’s go with lime juice. Lime is friendly and gets along with everyone. Let’s cut a fresh lime in half and squeeze the juice into a mixing glass. Just for kicks, let’s throw in one of the spent halves of the lime to let everyone know you’re taking this seriously.

Because we probably won’t want to drink straight lime juice, let’s temper the sourness with another element. There are a couple of directions we could go — spicy heat, smoke or salt — but let’s add something sweet. “Sweet and Sour” is a classic combination, whether we’re talking about children’s candy or Chinese takeout. We’ll use simple syrup, which will go into solution easily and won’t leave any sugar crystals at the bottom of our glass.

We could just top this drink off with ice and soda water at this point and call it a day. We’d have a glass of ultra-fresh limeade, and there is nothing wrong with that, but it might be interesting to add another flavor to the mix — maybe something unexpected. The fact that this drink is alcohol-free doesn’t mean it can’t have some complexity. Because lime really does go with everything, we could muddle a jalapeño in the glass at the beginning of this operation, or maybe a sprig of rosemary. Those would both be excellent, but this time let’s go with cucumber. It’s an unexpected flavor, but also reasonably non-threatening. We’ll add it with the sweet element, in the form of cucumber syrup.

Now, all we need is a sparkling element. Tonic water is a classic companion for lime juice, but it might be a little too sweet on its own here, so let’s cut it 50/50 with seltzer.

We could add more ingredients at this point, but we’d run the risk of overcomplicating things and muddying the flavor. We’ve put together a solid (well, liquid, actually), adult drink that is very good on its own merits. We can build on this someday, but for now this will do nicely.

Cucumber Sparkle

  • Juice of 1 lime, reserving the spent carcass of one half
  • 2 ounces cucumber syrup (see below)
  • 3 ounces extra bubbly seltzer – I like Topo Chico
  • 3 ounces tonic water
  • ice

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass, and stir slowly and with gratitude.

Carefully pour everything, including the ice and the lime carcass, into a chilled rocks glass.

Ask your digital assistant to play “Rhapsody in Blue” by George Gershwin, and sip your drink with a sense of gratification. If your mood slips into one of smug satisfaction, who could blame you?

Cucumber Syrup

Wash one or more cucumbers, but leave the skins on. Chop to a medium dice, then freeze for an hour or two, until completely solid. Add an equal amount of sugar by weight, and cook over medium-low heat. The cucumbers will release a startling amount of juice. Bring to a low boil, then remove from heat. Let the cucumbers steep for 20 minutes or so, then strain the syrup. This will last for a week or two in your refrigerator.

In the kitchen with Lin Theth

Chef at Street (76 N. Main St., Concord, 333-2125, streetfood360.com)

“I started in the industry as a student. I went to high school in Dover, and I took their culinary program,” Theth said. “I did that program for two years and then proceeded to go to Johnson & Wales for school. I completed my degree there in culinary arts, and I began working at first in Portsmouth, to finish my degree. I had to do an internship, so I did it at Vida Cantina in Portsmouth. I was there for about five or so years. I started as an intern, worked up to line cook, and then I was the chef there for the last couple of years. I began working at Street at our flagship restaurant in Portsmouth. From there, I helped open their secondary location in Exeter, and then I’m currently working at their third location in Concord.”

What’s your must-have kitchen item?

Definitely a knife. Having a good chef’s knife is everything. If you pick the right one, something that’s comfortable, something that’s really tuned to your hand as an individual, you know, you can almost use it for anything.

What would your last meal be?

Anything that my mother would make me, I would gladly have. I grew up eating a lot of pho and that’s something that I could never say no to, so I’d probably say that.

What’s your favorite place to eat out at?

I’ll be honest, I don’t go out much. I typically, you know, as the industry goes, I work a lot of hours, and aside from that, I just prefer to be at home. There’s a restaurant in Lynn, Mass., called Nightshade Noodle Bar and in the summertime they do like a seafood shack situation where they do Vietnamese Cajun cuisine. And I’ve never had it, but I’ve always wanted to try. Fun stuff like that is always very interesting to see.

What’s your favorite thing on your menu?

When I first started here at Street, I used to take the Singapore salad and what I would do is I would have that with a side of Korean tenders, but I would take it and wrap it up in a falafel pita and eat it like a pita.

What’s the biggest food trend you see in New Hampshire right now?

Anything that you see on social media is huge right now. I feel like the fusion is something that people have been really gravitating toward recently. Just like the mix and match of different cultures and a single dish and that kind of thing. I’ve seen a lot of dishes like birria ramen and stuff like that, which is very interesting.

What do you cook at home?

Breakfast is huge for me. I love waking up in the morning, having my cup of tea or cup of coffee and just making breakfast. That’s always one of the staples for me. Just, you know, scrambled eggs, good scrambled eggs, some seasoned potatoes, things like that.

Dipping Sauce
From the kitchen of Lin Theth

This is something that I like to do as just a dipping sauce for proteins — chicken or whatever:

It’s a couple of tablespoons of simple syrup. You can just make it on the stove; just cook [equal amounts of] sugar and water and boil that until the sugar is dissolved. Add a little bit of garlic and chili, just to bring in some heat, just a little zestiness from the garlic. Once that’s cooled, add a couple tablespoons of fish sauce to it and a fat squeeze of lime juice.

It’s pretty simple and easy to make, but it’s one of those things where you have a little bit of everything. It’s sweet, it’s spicy, it’s salty from the fish sauce. It’s great.

A cup of civility

Honey Cup Cafe & Tearoom offers tea and a moment of calm

By John Fladd

[email protected]

If you ask Mara Witt, the owner of Honey Cup Cafe & Tearoom, what Manchester needs, she’ll tell you it’s a tea room. The tea is important, of course, but Witt said that a tea room fills a need many adults have: It’s a space to relax and spend time with other adults; to inject a little civility into their day-to-day routine.

“I think a lot of other women need something to be able to look forward to,” she said. “It just kind of elevates your daily life a little bit to be able to sit down and feel a little bit fancy with little sandwiches and enjoy a warm drink with someone. It’s nice to have something that’s not so alcohol-focused. There’s a lot to do that is alcohol-focused. It’s nice to have a way to go out with someone that you can do in the morning and not feel guilty about it that’s not coffee- or alcohol-focused.”

Since its formal opening in December, the Honey Cup has had a mixed clientele.

“I have definitely been pleasantly surprised with the amount of men,” Witt said. “It turns out that a lot of men really enjoy drinking tea. But they also like the tea room; they like the aesthetic. They find it a nice relaxing place to be.”

Although the Honey Cup serves coffee and even a few low-octane cocktails, the focus is on tea and tea-adjacent foods.

“We have a focus on vintage comfort foods,” Witt said. “The idea is a bit like a vintage lunch counter.” To that end, there are breakfast items, baked goods like scones, and finger sandwiches. “And then we do a formal tea on Saturdays and Sundays at two o’clock by reservation,” Witt added, “which is a full afternoon tea service.”

The Full Afternoon Tea is an example of curating a grown-up experience for Witt’s customers. “It’s modeled after a Victorian English version of afternoon tea,” Wit said. “We serve three tiers. The bottom tier is always finger sandwiches; we do chicken salad, deviled egg, [and] cucumber sandwiches of course, and then salmon — a lox sandwich. The second tier is always scones, so we usually have two kinds of scones to choose from. We serve that with authentic clotted cream, lemon curd, and jam to put on the scones. And then on the top we always have a [pastry] assortment — things like petit fours or macarons. Each person has a personal pot of tea and it’s a bottomless pot so they can try all the teas on our menu.”

Honey Cup Cafe and Tearoom. Photo by John
Fladd.
Honey Cup Cafe and Tearoom. Photo by John Fladd.

A big part of creating a comfortable space has been building an aesthetic, Witt said.

“I guess I’m what you might describe as a maximalist. I think I identified with that. [Our look] is very vintage, floral, and a little feminine. I wanted it to feel kind of like a parlor, like you’re going to the parlor in someone’s house and enjoying tea time there, like they did in the olden days.” To that end, the wallpaper in both rooms in the cafe has a bold floral design. There are comfortable chairs to sit in, and even a sofa. Witt pointed to a floral spray in one corner of the tea parlor. “In my loan paperwork, I said I need $5,000 for a floral installation,” she said. “And my loan officer said, ‘Absolutely not.’ So I did them myself for not $5,000 and so far everyone likes my floral arrangement.”

While walk-in customers make up a sizable portion of the Honey Cup’s business, Witt’s strategy is to lean into events.
“We can host private events after four,” she said. We’re closed at three, so we can do private room rentals for sure. And we have the catering as well. I think we’ll do well with the room rentals once the word is out about that.”

The space is perfect, she said, for small gatherings like book clubs and showers.

“We’re doing a ‘Blind Book Club’,” she said, “where I wrap all the books and nobody knows what book it is before they buy it. The first time we did it, it sold out in one week and we sold all the books. Readers love it; it’s like a blind date. We set a date, then meet to have a little tea and discuss the book. And the response is just like people love it, like blind date with a book … and then we’re going to meet here on Jan. 25 and have a little tea and discuss the book. I really wanted to have a community place for knitting clubs or book clubs or things like that or a place to just come in the morning and just sit and relax.”

Honey Cup Cafe & Tearoom
150 Bridge St., Manchester, 836-6008, honeycupnh.com
Open 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. seven days a week. Catering and room rentals are available. Special events are listed on the Honey Cup website.

Featured photo: Mara Witt, owner of Honey Cup Cafe and Tearoom. Photo by John Fladd.

The science of shaking

Cocktail making is an exercise in physics

A cocktail shaker is a surprisingly sophisticated piece of equipment. According to Griffin Star, bartender at 815 Cocktails & Provisions in Manchester, this is especially true of a “Boston shaker,” the type preferred by many bartenders, which is made up of two metal cups, one large, and one small.

“When we’re building a cocktail,” Starr said, “we build it in the small shaker first, with the ice separated in the bigger half.”

To a casual customer sitting at a bar, shaking a cocktail seems fairly straightforward, even simple, but Starr pointed out that making a quality cocktail requires paying attention to several aspects of physics. One of the most important of these is being aware of the air pressure inside and outside the shaker. When a bartender combines the two halves of a Boston shaker, introducing room temperature liquids in the small half of the shaker to the ice in the large half, he or she needs to create a tight seal, to prevent a proto-cocktail from leaking out as it is shaken.

“You want to seal down the tin,” Starr said. “You want to give it a good, hard slap at an angle.” At this point, Starr demonstrated his slapping technique with a drink he was in the process of making. As he slapped the smaller half of the shaker into place, at an angle, there was a small, audible hiss as air was forced out of the shaker, creating a slight vacuum.

Starr said that learning how to slap a cocktail shaker properly took him a while. “It took me until at least four or five months into actually bartending,” he remembered. “To actually get used to the muscle memory and not having my palm hurt when I struck it probably took about five months.”

Once a bartender starts shaking a cocktail, things get complicated pretty quickly, Starr said. If there is an egg white in a drink, when the alkaline egg white meets an acidic citrus juice, for instance, pressure can build up inside a shaker. “When you are shaking with those egg whites, generally you want to keep one palm on the top half, one palm on the bottom half,” he said. “That way you’re just keeping everything sealed in and it doesn’t just blow up in the tin and go right all over your face.” If there isn’t an acid-base reaction, though, the air inside the shaker shrinks as it cools, Starr said, creating a stronger vacuum. “It’s a drop in pressure,” he said, “so there’s a suction.”

Then there’s the matter of how long or hard to shake a cocktail.

“Obviously it all depends on what ingredients you are using,” Starr said. “At home, you’re probably going to want to use all the ice that you possibly can to fill up the tin with, because as we know with thermal dynamics, if you use just a little ice, it’s going to melt quickly and dilute your drink a lot quicker. I usually do a 10- to 15-second shake, but it’s good to keep in mind how long you’re doing it. A good way to [know you should stop shaking is] that feeling of the tin getting cold in your hand. As soon as it chills right at that centerpiece where you’re holding it, that’s a good sign that you’re done shaking.”

The final step of cocktail shaking is also the flashiest: the strong but casual slap a good bartender uses to separate the two halves of the shaker. This is where the angle of the smaller half of the shaker comes in, Starr said. “The slap is with the heel of your hand at the junction where the two glasses meet and because it’s at an angle you’re slapping it on the opposite end of where it’s angled.”

Starr said that in his opinion using good technique is a sign of respect for a drink and for the customer.

“I don’t want to put out anything that’s incomplete,” he said.

The Weekly Dish 25/01/02

By John Fladd

[email protected]

Cooking compeition:Tickets for this year’s Steel Chef competition are on sale. Hosted by restaurateur and celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson, this competition will take place at Armory Ballroom at the Doubletree by Hilton Manchester Downtown on Monday, March 17. Approximately 680 guests will watch a live, timed cooking competition featuring some of New Hampshire’s best chefs. As the competition between chefs heats up, guests will enjoy a dinner curated by Chef Samuelsson, plus live and silent auctions and more. Proceeds will benefit the New Hampshire Food Bank. Tickets start at $150 and sell out quickly. Visit nhfoodbank.org/steelchef.

Chef’s table: Flag Hill Winery (297 N. River Road, Lee, 659-2949, flaghill.com) is accepting reservations for January’s Chef’s Table Dinners on Saturday, Jan. 11, and Saturday, Jan. 18. Dinner reservations are $75 per person, which includes a four-course dinner and wine/spirit/cocktail pairings with each course. Visit Flag Hill’s website.

Wine week: Reserve your seat for the Cakebread Cellars Wine Dinner at the Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) on Wednesday, Jan. 22, from 6 to 9 p.m. This exclusive five-course dinner is paired with the wines of Cakebread Cellars, one of Napa Valley’s most esteemed wineries. Each course has been crafted by the BVI’s Executive Chef to complement the elegance and complexity of these renowned vintages. Tickets are $125 per person through Eventbrite.com and are extremely limited.

Thinking about spring: Farmers, gardeners, food system pros and organic advocates, get your tickets now for NOFA-NH’s (Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Hampshire) 23rd annual winter conference, “Sowing Hope, Cultivating Joy,” to be held on Feb. 8 at Southern New Hampshire University (2500 N. River Road, Manchester). This event includes workshops and networking with others interested in growing food and nurturing community. Tickets are offered on a sliding scale and lunch tickets are sold separately. Workshops on the schedule include such topics as “Growing Blue Fruits,” “Creating a Community Farm” and “The Cows Don’t Milk Themselves.” A keynote address will be given by Chef David Vargas of Portsmouth’s Vida Cantina. See nofanh.org for details and to register.

Closing: The Stonewall Kitchen retail location in downtown Portsmouth (10 Pleasant St.) is closing after 26 years, according to a Dec. 23 story in the Portsmouth Herald. Stonewall products are sold at various New Hampshire shops and supermarkets, and the company has other retail locations around New England.

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