Category: Cover Stories

Your Guide to the 2022 Season of Festive Events

Welcome to Hippo’s Holiday Guide — our annual listing of fun happening from Drinksgiving (a.k.a. the night before Thanksgiving) through New Year’s Day.

Looking for parades, tree lightings, Nutcracker productions or cookie-related events to get you in the seasonal mood? We’ve got that as well as Turkey Day road races, holiday comedy, arts markets and so much more.

Know of a bit of holiday cheer we missed? Let us know at [email protected]. Now get out your calendar and start filling your season with fun!

There’s so much to do this season it won’t all fit into one post. Link to the stories here:

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

APPLE PIE VS. PUMPKIN PIE!

TURKEY VS. NOT TURKEY!

IT’S A FACE-OFF OF THANKSGIVING FAVORITES!

What makes up the perfect Thanksgiving feast? Is it traditional roasted turkey with stuffing, mashed potatoes and gelatinous canned cranberry sauce? But what if you don’t like turkey (or don’t eat meat altogether)? Pumpkin pie is delicious (agrees not everybody) but are there more crowd-pleasing options?

We asked local livestock farmers, butchers, restaurateurs, chefs and bakers to debate some of the key components of the standard Thanksgiving feast and provide tips and recipes into their idea of the best Thanksgiving dishes.

The main event

Turkey or non-turkey — what’s your pleasure?

By Matt Ingersoll

[email protected]

Turkey is the pièce de résistance of the Thanksgiving feast for many — after all, there are so many different ways to prepare the bird, from the traditional method of oven-roasting to simple grilling, spatchcocking, smoking and even deep-frying. The type of turkey you are using, whether it’s a broad-breasted bird or a heritage breed, also plays into how you prepare it.

Karina Allayne of Greetwist Acres in New Boston usually fills orders for both types of turkey. She said broad-breasted turkeys are more likely what you’ll find at the grocery store or major commercial outlet, and are bred to produce much larger breasts — thus, a bird with more meat.

“Broad-breasted [turkeys] are very popular because they clean up really nice … [and] the skin is all white and pretty-looking,” Allayne said. “So, a person might say, ‘You know what, I love broad-breasted because we get a lot of meat on it,’ and that’s what they’re into. … The heritage breeds, those are more closely related to the wild ancestors. There’s not as much meat, [but] a lot of people also feel that heritage … has more flavor, which I agree. Also, there may be an issue in terms of [people saying] ‘Do I want to eat a bird that was only being produced to get fat and die within a year or two’s time,’ because broad-breasted do not usually live past the age of 2.”

When it comes to cooking turkey, Allayne said she now prefers to throw hers on the grill for Thanksgiving after previously preparing it in her home kitchen oven.

“We popped it in the grill one year and it was the best-tasting turkey I’ve ever had, and so from that point on I always grill my turkey,” she said. “[We] cook it somewhere between 350 and 400 [degrees] and then basically it just becomes its own little oven outside.”

Shelley Morley of Mt. Dearborn Farm in Weare similarly likes to grill her turkey, noting that it saves precious oven space in her kitchen for any accompanying side dishes. Last Thanksgiving, she decided to try spatchcocking her turkey, which proved to be, as she said, a “game changer.”

“[Spatchcocking is] when you remove the spine and then flatten the bird, so it cooks more evenly,” she said. “I didn’t even know about spatchcocking until two or three years ago and, of course, with Thanksgiving you always want everything to be perfect. … So last year, there were only five of us, and so I said, ‘Why don’t I try something different,’ when the stakes weren’t as high. I’m going to do it again this year because it just came out so well.”

Non-turkey meat alternatives

What if you don’t like turkey, or you simply just don’t have the sizable crowd coming over this year to help you finish such a large bird? Both Allayne and Morley will often find themselves selling chickens to customers for Thanksgiving, and Allayne even also sells duck.

“It might just be two people that are getting together, and it’s really hard to find a turkey that is small enough for two people,” Allayne said, “so they’ll order maybe a large roasting chicken. … I do actually sell quite a bit of duck, too, because people want something small, but special.”

As duck meat tends to be fattier, Allayne said it ought to be cooked at a lower temperature for a longer period of time. Duck fat can also be rendered for use in cooking potatoes, she added.

Rob Darling of Concord Beef & Seafood, a premium butcher and fish market on South Main Street, said that while they do regularly sell farm-fresh turkeys around Thanksgiving, he does also end up selling a small amount of spiral-cut hams, as well as prime rib or tenderloin roasts.

“I mean, a roast is a 45-minute to an hour cook, so it’s a lot more manageable [than a turkey],” Darling said. “Beef also has a lot more flavor than turkey, in my opinion, whereas I feel like turkey is pretty much the tradition for Thanksgiving, which is why people have it.”

If you’re cooking a roast, Darling recommends using a meat thermometer to ensure it comes out perfect. For beef specifically, he likes to season with rosemary and garlic powder, in addition to some salt and pepper, to allow the flavor to come through in the meat.

“Beef is actually a lot easier to cook than, say, a pork roast, or even turkey, just because it’s not as lean,” he said. “If you’re cooking something so lean and you overcook it, it’s going to be dry.”

As the shop also does tailor most of its focus to appetizers, Darling said Thanksgiving is also one of the more popular holidays for items like shrimp cocktail, bacon-wrapped scallops and bacon-wrapped tenderloin bites, in addition to some cheeses and meats for platters.

“I think people are just looking for something they can put out and not have to think about. They know it’s going to be good and that people are going to like it,” he said.

Even fresh fish is a viable main course option for some. Elisha Ewing of Liberty Fish, a Peterborough-based business delivering fresh seafood to farm stands and farmers markets in parts of New Hampshire and Massachusetts, said Thanksgiving is a very busy time for her.

She said salmon in particular, as well as haddock, cod and halibut, is among the more popular alternatives to the main turkey dish. Her scallops also prove to be a highly requested appetizer.

“I do think that the majority of my customers probably have turkey as at least one of their main dishes, but I will get orders … from people who are looking for an alternative protein, and so they’ll reach out and order fish,” Ewing said. “I also have folks that will say, ‘Hey, I’ve got friends or family that are going to extend their visit, and I’m really just needing to stock up to do meal prep for the extended holiday weekend.’ … I think some people are basically just maxed out on turkey come Saturday, and they want something else.”

Working with an importer and exporter down in Boston, Ewing always obtains her fish fresh — never frozen. Locally, you can find Liberty Fish at Trombly Gardens in Milford, where Ewing makes weekly deliveries every Wednesday and where pickups are from 2 to 6 p.m. Visit libertyfish.net to join Ewing’s weekly email notification group and order your fresh catch.

A vegan Thanksgiving

Of course, if you simply just don’t eat meat, then you’re likely in store for a whole different kind of main course Thanksgiving option. But, as local vegan and plant-based chefs suggest, that doesn’t mean your holiday feast has to be any less delicious.

Madeline Rossi and Olivia Lenox of The Green Beautiful vegan cafe in Manchester recently hosted their second annual “gentle Thanksgiving” dinner, a plant-based feast and fundraiser for the New Hampshire Animal Rights League. The couple, who also run New Roots Meals — a plant-based meal prep company — has dabbled in all kinds of unique options over the last few years. Some can even work as “mock turkey” alternatives with similar palates to that of a bird.

“In terms of more of a mock turkey, we’ve done a thing in the past called celeriac. It’s basically just the root of a celery plant,” Rossi said. “They get big and round, and it’s very cool because I’ve done it where it’s sort of in a similar thing that you cook a turkey in, kind of like a stock, and I put it in the oven … and baste it every 30 minutes like you would with a turkey. … It comes out really well and slices really easily. The texture is pretty meaty, but also soft.”

She said the celery root is fairly easy to find — they can be found in most local grocery stores and specialty markets, as she noted that it’s in season during the cooler months.

“The thing is, if you don’t know what it is, you would just walk right past it in the grocery store,” she said. “It’s huge and gnarly and doesn’t look edible, but it very much is.”

Carrie Burt of Joyfull Eats, a plant-based meal company based at Deep Meadow Variety in Exeter, has made a lentil loaf, as well as a chickpea-based “chick-un” loaf that’s also meant to mimic the flavor profiles of a traditional Thanksgiving turkey. Both options, she said, are available to pre-order on her website (joyfulleatsnh.com) through Sunday, Nov. 20.

Other great options, Rossi said, include a white lasagna that’s made with tofu and vegan cheese.

“I feel like doing a white lasagna instead of [with] a red sauce kind of pairs even better with the flavors of Thanksgiving, like stuffing and gravy and green beans and all that stuff,” she said.

How to spatchcock a turkey
Instructions provided by Shelley Morley of Mt. Dearborn Farm in Weare

• Using kitchen shears, cut from the tailbone along both sides of the turkey’s spine to remove the backbone. (You can use the backbone to make gravy just as you would the neck and giblets.)
• Open up the turkey by pulling it apart where the backbone was removed.
• Turn the turkey over so that the breast is facing up and press down hard on the breast until you hear a crack or two and the turkey can lay flat.
• Place the turkey on a rack on top of a rimmed cooking sheet or broiler pan to catch the juices. You can place some chopped onions, carrots and celery into the pan to help keep the oven moist. They will also add some nice flavor to your gravy.
• Pat dry the skin to encourage extra crispiness. You can also rub the skin with a little olive oil and sprinkle it with sea salt, or season the turkey however you want.
• A 12- to -14-pound turkey roasted at 450 degrees cooks in about 90 minutes — or about seven minutes per pound.
• After the leg meat reaches a temperature of 165 degrees and the breast around 150 degrees, take the turkey out of the oven or off the grill, cover loosely with foil and let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. Letting the meat rest allows the juices to settle into the meat. This time can also be spent making your gravy and doing any other last-minute meal preparations.

Getting saucy

Jarred cranberry sauce goes toe to toe against homemade

By Katelyn Sahagian

[email protected]

From gelatinous cylinders that hold their shape after slicing to relishes filled with citrus and spices, cranberry sauce can come in a wide variety.

For Kristen Chinosi of The Culinary Playground in Derry, the only option is homemade cranberry sauce.

“I’m homemade all the way,” Chinosi said. “You’re limited with the canned stuff.”

Chinosi said she loves that there’s a personalization that happens with homemade cranberry sauce. She said that there’s a magic behind being able to add different spices and citrus flavors, to personalize the sauce. Even having control over something as simple as the texture of the sauce can make all the difference.

Chinosi did admit that there is a nostalgic factor associated with the easy, can-shaped cranberry sauce. But in the end, there’s no comparison between that and the homemade — and personally customized — version of the condiment.

“It’s fun to see [the berries] pop open. … They do these little explosions,” Chinosi said. “Just cook them down with sugar and orange juice, then slowly add some warm spices, like cinnamon, cloves, allspice and ginger. It’ll smell like fall.”

While Amy LaBelle, owner and winemaker of LaBelle Winery, said she loves a good homemade cranberry sauce, she hopes people will think of her jarred cranberry jam as a viable alternative to people who don’t want to worry about cooking the jellied condiment.

“It’s a lot easier,” LaBelle said. “Just put it in a bowl and let it set up. But it’s still delicious because we still write the recipe.”

The jam, which is a homemade recipe featuring some of LaBelle’s cranberry wine and fresh spices, has many different uses besides as a side dish on the table. LaBelle’s favorite ways to enjoy it are either in a cranberry old-fashioned, with orange bitters and high-quality bourbon, or as the spread for a Thanksgiving leftovers sandwich.

While LaBelle noted that her own sauce wouldn’t need any doctoring to get the spiced, sweet and savory flavor that tastes like fall, she also said that there are a number of good ways to spruce up any jarred or canned sauce.

“If you’re going to buy a can of whole cranberry sauce, you can absolutely take that and add to it some orange zest, orange juices and … definitely add just a tiny bit of clove, some nutmeg [and] cinnamon,” LaBelle said. “But that orange juice and orange zest are really going to be your best way to perk that up. Those, and my cranberry wine, of course.”

Cranberry Jam Bourbon Smash
Courtesy of LaBelle Winery in Amherst and Derry, labellewinery.com

3 ounces good quality bourbon
1½ ounces fresh orange juice
½ ounce cranberry juice
1 teaspoon maple syrup
1 Tablespoon The Winemaker’s Kitchen cranberry wine jam
Dash of blood orange bitters

Place all ingredients in a shaker over ice and shake for 30 seconds. Pour with ice into a highball glass rimmed with cinnamon sugar.

“Your” Cranberry Sauce
Courtesy of The Culinary Playground in Derry, culinary-playground.com (yields about two cups)

1 teaspoon orange zest
½ cup fresh squeezed orange juice (from 1 large orange)
12 ounces fresh or frozen cranberries, divided
½ cup water
¾ to 1 cup packed brown sugar

Optional add-ins:
Up to ½ teaspoon cinnamon and/or allspice
Up to ⅛ teaspoon ground ginger and/or cloves
Up to ½ cup toasted pecans and/or walnuts, chopped
Up to ½ cup dried apricots and/or dates, chopped
1 Granny Smith apple and/or D’Anjou pear, peeled, cored and chopped

Zest the orange to yield 1 teaspoon, then set aside. Cut the orange in half and juice it to yield ½ cup. Measure out ½ cup of cranberries and set aside. Add the remaining cranberries into a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Add the water, orange juice and brown sugar. Stir occasionally as the mixture comes to a simmer. Once simmering, reduce heat to medium-low. While stirring occasionally, continue to cook until the liquid has reduced and the cranberries have burst and thickened (about 10 more minutes). Decrease the heat to low and stir in ½ cup reserved cranberries and orange zest. Taste and add additional brown sugar if it’s too tart. Remove from the heat. If customizing your sauce, stir in those ingredients as well (except for any nuts). Transfer to a serving bowl and allow to cool and thicken. Once cooled, cover and refrigerate for at least a few hours, or up to a week. Bring to room temperature before serving. If using nuts, stir them in before serving.

Potato vs. potato

Traditional mashed takes on sweet potato

By Angie Sykeny

[email protected]

Mashed potatoes: the flavor conveyor

Everyone has their preferred Thanksgiving side dishes, but for Brandon Rainer, co-owner of The Potato Concept in Derry, there’s one dish that should make it onto every plate.

“Mashed potatoes. One hundred percent,” he said. “That’s the ultimate side dish. Thanksgiving just isn’t Thanksgiving without it.”

And the simpler they are, the better; Rainer’s high praise for mashed potatoes, he said, comes from the dish’s unique ability to act as a “vessel” for the medley of flavors on your plate.

“You can take your fork, take a little bit of turkey, take a little bit of cranberry sauce, and take it in with your mashed potatoes,” said The Potato Concept co-owner Lauren Lefebvre. “You’re able to play with different textures and flavors on your plate and make different combinations, which is fun.”

Mashed potatoes can also serve as a “holder” on your plate for whatever you want to combine with the potatoes — and for the foods that you want to keep contained from the rest.

“My kids like to make what they call a ‘gravy pond,’ where they make a little space in their potatoes to hold their gravy,” Lefebvre said.

Be sure to leave a bite or two of mashed potatoes for last to soak up all the remnants of Thanksgiving goodness.

“It’s the perfect way to clear your plate,” Rainer said.

Preparation tips

The first and most important step for making good mashed potatoes, Rainer said, is to use real potatoes, never boxed.

“That’s the biggest way where you can go wrong,” he said. “You have to have the real thing. Nothing else will substitute for it.”

If you’re boiling your potatoes, patience is key. Plan the rest of the meal so that you have a burner reserved for potatoes to give them the time that they need to cook thoroughly.

“A lot of times, people have a lot of different things they need to cook, and they get impatient and take the potatoes off as soon as they can slightly put a fork through them,” Lefebvre said, “but once they go to mash them, they find that the potatoes are still very much hard in the center.”

Mash as you might, there will still be chunky bits, so those few extra minutes on the stove are always worth it.

“They’re supposed to be creamy. Nobody likes to have to chew on their mashed potatoes,” Lefebvre said. “That can throw off the dish completely.”

Sweet potatoes: a dessert before dessert

Sweet potatoes are the better option if you’re looking to add a bit of variety to the traditional Thanksgiving lineup.

“Thanksgiving has a lot of savory items and a lot of salts, but there’s not a lot of sweet things you can add, aside from maybe cranberry sauce,” Lefebvre said, “but sweet potatoes bring that bit of sugar to diversify the flavor profiles on the table.”

You can bake sweet potatoes and serve them whole, bake them into sweet potato fries, or, for a custard-like treat, you can mash them.

“That by itself would be pretty indulgent,” Lefebvre said, “but, of course, you can always get fancier with it.”

Amp up the sweetness with toppings like brown sugar or marshmallows, or, if you want some additional flavor without the additional sugar, try spices, like cinnamon or nutmeg.

“It adds a bit more to the flavor profile of the sweet potato,” Lefebvre said.

Preparation tips

Sweet potatoes tend to be softer than the russet potatoes typically used for mashed potatoes, which means less prep time. The downside is their potential to get messy.

“If you’re baking them, and they start to pop and explode and leak everywhere, that [juice] will caramelize and burn quickly and create a mess in your oven and make for a kitchen nightmare,” Rainer said.

To prevent, or at least minimize, such a mess, simply poke some holes in the potatoes with a fork before putting them in the oven.

“Some people say you shouldn’t poke the potatoes, but after experimenting with many, many, many potatoes this year, we’ve found that, with sweet potatoes, the poking is necessary,” Rainer said.

Ginger sweet potato
Batch of five
Courtesy of The Potato Concept

5 sweet potatoes
½ cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
15 gingersnap cookies
¼ cup maple syrup
2 cups mini marshmallows
1 teaspoon salt

Get good quality sweet potatoes — ones between 1/2 and 3/4 pound work best. Stay away from ones where the skins and the ends of the potato aren’t fully intact. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. While it’s coming to temp, poke each potato a few times with a fork. Put them directly on the oven’s wire rack. Make sure there’s a pan underneath to catch the drippings, which may start to leak out toward the end of the cooking process. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes. Take the potatoes out of the oven using tongs and let them rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Set your oven to broil.
While they’re cooling, cut 1/2 cup of butter into smaller pieces and put them in a mixing bowl. Add a cup of brown sugar and a pinch of salt. Once the sweet potatoes have cooled slightly, slice them lengthwise and carefully scoop out the insides while doing your best to keep the skin intact. Add it to the mixing bowl. It should still be hot enough to easily melt the butter. Use a fork to hand blend the ingredients. Scoop the mixture back into the sweet potato skin.
Place the mini marshmallows on top of the potato and put them back in the oven on a sheet pan on the top rack. Keep a close eye on them as you’re just looking to brown the marshmallows, and it shouldn’t take more than a minute or two. Once browned, remove from the oven.
Take 10 of your favorite variety of silver dollar sized gingersnap cookies and smash them into crumbs using a food processor or a hammer. Top the potatoes with the crumbs and save five cookies to put directly into the potato whole, as pictured. Then, take a teaspoon of maple syrup and drizzle on top.

Any way you slice it

Apple versus pumpkin — which pie takes the cake?

By Mya Blanchard

[email protected]

On the question of apple pie versus pumpkin pie, Christiana Lehman, owner of From Gracie’s Table in Brookline, is 100 percent Team Apple Pie.

“Pumpkin is gross,” Lehman said. “I make it because I know people eat it, but I do not even know what my own pumpkin pie tastes like because I do not like pumpkin pie.”

Local food blogger and chef instructor Liz Barbour, of The Creative Feast in Hollis, also picks apple.

“I personally like an apple pie better. … I like the texture of the apples, the different flavors of the apples and it’s a family favorite at our house,” she said.

On the other hand, Lisa Lucciano of The Cake Fairy in Hooksett doesn’t have such strong feelings.

“Personally I don’t [have a preference]” she said. “I like them both. … I probably would always choose pumpkin pie because it’s only made usually at Thanksgiving and Christmas … if I was only able to eat one I would eat pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving.”

While pumpkin pie might not take the cake as the fan favorite, it’s generally easier to make than apple pie, as it requires fewer steps and less preparation.

“[Apple pie] does require more effort because you have to peel them, then you have to mix the stuff [in] the apples, then you put it in the crust and fix the crust and decorate the crust,” Lehman said. “But with pumpkin … you open a can, you mix in the spices … and you put it in the crust.”

Barbour simplifies the apple pie making process by skipping the step of peeling the apples.

“[With] a properly baked apple pie, the way you can tell if it’s baked enough … is when you look at your pie at the end of the baking, the filling should be bubbling up through the vent holes,” Barbour said, “and that way you know that the skins have broken down [and] the apples are softened.”

When choosing which apples to include in your pie, variety is the key.

“You’re going to be looking for apples … that are sweet, apples that are tart [and] apples that add texture,” Barbour said. “When you combine all of those, then you have a really nice flavor base as opposed to using just one type of apple.”

Apple pie also wins the category of versatility.

“I think you can be more creative with an apple pie. … The apple pie is absolutely more versatile,” Lucciano said.

No matter which pie you choose to serve at Thanksgiving, it’s important to make it with care.

“You have to make sure that it’s spiced just right, mixed just right and in proper ways too,” Lucciano said. “Baking is a science that people don’t realize. If there are directions on how to do things, follow them.”

“Oh my!” apple pie
From the kitchen of Christiana Lehman of From Gracie’s Table and Brookline’s Finest

2 pie crusts
8 apples
1 10-ounce container From Gracie’s Table “dry” apple pie mix (includes brown sugar, cane sugar, cornstarch, white flour, ground cinnamon, nutmeg and sea salt)
2 Tablespoons butter

Lay out the crust into the bottom of a pan. Peel and chop apples. Mix dry ingredients with apples and butter. Pour seasoned apples into the pie crust. Cover with the other pie crust and pinch the edges together. Make three small slits on the top to vent. Cook at 425 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes.

Pumpkin apple custard pie
Courtesy of Diane Souther of Apple Hill Farm in Concord

8 medium-sized apples, peeled, cored and sliced
1 ½ cups pumpkin puree
3 eggs, separated
½ cup white sugar
½ cup maple sugar (or light brown sugar)
½ cup maple syrup
3 Tablespoons flour
1 Tablespoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
¼ teaspoon salt
2 ½ cups warm whole milk
2 9-inch unbaked pie crusts (can use graham cracker crusts)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Make your favorite pie crust and place in two pie plates, or use store-purchased crusts. Peel, slice and core the apples. Line the inside of the bottom of the 9-inch pie crusts. Separate the eggs, yolks and whites, and beat the whites until stiff, then set aside for later. Mix the yolks with the pumpkin puree, then add the white and maple sugars, the maple syrup, the flour, the salt and the spices and mix well. Add the warm whole milk (not hot) and mix well. Gently fold in the egg whites. Divide the mixture in half and gently pour between the two pie plates. Bake at 375 degrees for approximately 15 minutes, then give them a spin and reduce the heat to 350 degrees for about 30 minutes longer, until the custard is set and no longer loose.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

The drinks of the 1990s return — and get a reboot

The drinks of the ’90s served largely as fuel for dancing, and as conversation starters with the Hungarian hand models we were trying to dance with.

Like the clothes we wore, a lot of the music we listened to and (wow!) the way we wore our hair, for those who were young in the ’90s, the cocktails didn’t need to be great. When these cocktails were well-made, they could be excellent, but that was often beside the point.

Do any of us even really remember what a Woo-Woo tasted like? What would some of the drinks of the ’90s — suddenly The decade, nostalgia-wise — taste like today? Is there a way to improve them and make them more interesting? Do they even need that? Let’s see what we have to work with:

Mojito

The mojito might be the quintessential 1990s drink. Its combination of lime juice and mint could make you feel like you were sitting in a swanky club in Miami. Maybe you were sitting in a swanky club in Miami during the ’90s — I don’t know what you were doing 30 years ago or whether you were legal to drink. The taste of rum was usually an afterthought; the focus was on the greenery.

You looked sophisticated, drinking a mojito.

The original version uses surprisingly little mint.

’90s mojito

Ingredients

• 3 mint leaves
• ½ ounce simple syrup
• 2 ounces white rum — Because the rum is supposed to be a background flavor here, any mid-range, doesn’t-take-itself-too-seriously white or silver rum will work. Bacardi is a good choice.
• ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice — from ordinary Persian limes, the kind you find at the grocery store, next to the lemons
• 3 to 4 ounces club soda

Muddle the mint leaves in the bottom of a Collins glass.

Add ice, and the rest of the ingredients, and stir to combine.

Garnish with a mint sprig, and possibly a lime wheel.

Sip, with your coolest, most inscrutable look on your face. If anyone asks how you are doing, tell them, “Livin’ la vida loca, my friend.”

Considering that this drink was considered one of the trendiest cocktails around at the time, it is surprisingly light and delicate. The mint and rum are very modest here. The main impressions you get as you drink it are of carbonation and lime juice. This is a drink for someone who wants to keep their wits about them.

But also, puzzlingly shy when it comes to the use of mint.

2022 me really doesn’t need to keep my wits about me. I know that I’m a lightweight at this point, at least so far as my cocktail consumption goes. The most exciting and dangerous thing I’m planning to do on a Friday night is emptying the dishwasher. If I’m going to drink a mojito, I’d like to forgo any subtlety and get slapped in the face with its mojito-ness. I am no longer bold, so I’d like my mojito to be bold for me.

Updated Mojito

Ingredients

• 5 grams of fresh mint — This doesn’t sound like much, but when I tried to weigh three mint leaves from the original recipe, they didn’t register on my scale, which means that I was using less than a tenth of a gram of them. Thus, this is at least 50 times mintier than the classic version. Think a small handful.
• 2 ounces white rum — I’m not really looking to make a boozier mojito, just a more flavorful one.
• ¾ ounce makrut lime juice — These little limes are surprisingly juicy. If you can’t find any, Key limes would work well, too.
• 1 ounce simple syrup — The smaller limes have a slightly bitter edge to them, which helps give them their sophisticated flavor, but a little extra sweetness helps balance it out.
• 3 to 4 ounces extra-bubbly club soda — I like Topo Chico Mineral Water.

As before, muddle the mint in the bottom of a Collins glass.

Add ice and the other ingredients, and stir gently.

Garnish with half a tiny lime. This might prompt somebody to ask, “What is that?” at which point you can just hand over your drink for them to take a sip, and watch as they are knocked backward by flavor and joy.

It’s surprising how much flavor the smaller limes pack. The extra mint is welcome, of course, but the flavor of the makrut is the star of the show. This version of the mojito is sweet, and acidic, and musky, and herbal, all at once.

I hate to make assumptions, but I suspect that once you have tried this, any time you see makrut limes at the supermarket, you’ll find yourself saying out loud, “Do you know what time it is? That’s right; it’s Mojito Time, Baby!” You might get some strange looks from your fellow shoppers, but that’s the price you pay for being authentically awesome.

Limes
These are makrut limes. I stumbled over them in the produce section at Whole Foods. They have another, more common name, one with unfortunate racial overtones. They are more commonly called — and my apologies to anyone from southern Africa — kaffir limes. I had heard of using the leaves in Thai cooking, but this was the first time I had seen the actual fruit. Each of the limes is about the size of a golf ball, and covered with a thick, leathery rind.
I asked the produce manager what they tasted like, and he pulled out a pocket knife and opened one for us to try. The flavor was very intense.
“Are you getting … leather?” I asked.
“A little bit, but mostly … um….”
“What?” I asked.
“Lemon Pledge?” he guessed.
“That’s it! But in a good way!”
He nodded and smiled.
And it does. In 1958, the chemical engineers at Johnson & Johnson developed a scent for their furniture polish that smelled so good, so wholesome, that homemakers would feel guilty not spraying in on their woodwork. Smelling it today can instantly transport you to your childhood and soothe you like a lullaby.
Makrut limes taste a lot like that.
Only, naturally.
One shelf over from the limes was a bin of yuzu. I had always heard of yuzu, and even seen small bottles of yuzu juice for sale at astronomical prices, but this was the first time I’d ever seen the fresh fruit. They are about the same size and shape as tangerines, but a deep green color that lightens to a buttery yellow as they ripen.
My new friend cut open a yuzu for us, and we were initially underwhelmed. The juice tasted generically citrusy but was not very intense. The seeds were surprisingly large, but otherwise we both shrugged and started talking about rhubarb.
I bought a couple of pounds of the yuzu anyway, and when I got home I decided to make them into a syrup, which turned out to be astoundingly, shockingly good — vibrant and acidic, and with a bitter finish. If you find any fresh yuzu, I would recommend making this, though decent lemons would work well, too.

Yuzu Syrup
Zest all the yuzus you have, and set the zest aside.
Squeeze the fruit through a fine-meshed strainer, into a small saucepan.
Add an equal amount, by weight, of white sugar to the juice.
Bring to a boil over medium heat, making sure that all the sugar has dissolved.
Remove the pan from the heat, then stir in the zest. Cover with a plate, and let it sit for half an hour.
Pour into a small jar or bottle, through a strainer and a funnel. Label and refrigerate.

Jasmine

The jasmine made its debut in Las Vegas in the late ’90s. It was a riff on a riff on a variation of an already existent cocktail, so it doesn’t feel very transgressive to modify it.

I like to think of a beautiful bartender named Jasmine, with dark hair in a pixie cut, shockingly blue eyes, and a truly surprising number of tattoos (which, in the ’90s, were a cutting-edge trend). I imagine an admirer bringing her a bouquet of jasmine flowers. In this scenario, the admirer is also a woman named Jasmine, so Inky Jasmine makes her a jasmine cocktail.

Original Jasmine

Ingredients

• 1½ ounces very cold gin — Keeping a bottle of gin in the freezer is not the worst idea in the world. (I already keep a bottle of vodka there, for making pie crust, but that’s another story.)
• ¼ ounce Campari
• ¼ ounce orange liqueur — I used triple sec.
• ¾ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice

Combine all ingredients, with ice, in a cocktail shaker.

Shake until very cold. You’ll know you’re getting there when you hear the ice cubes start to break up. I’m not positive, but I think this is one reason bartenders shake drinks next to their ears.

Strain into a martini glass. Remember to hold it by the stem, so it stays as cold as possible.

This is a very nice cocktail. It isn’t too sweet — the only sweetness comes from the tiny amount of triple sec — and the equally tiny amount of Campari gives it a gentle pink color and a very small amount of bitterness in the background. Considering its origins, it is a very adult drink.

My only real complaint with it is that it doesn’t have anything to do with actual jasmine.

So, let’s see what we can do about that:

Today’s Jasmine

Ingredients

• 1½ ounces very cold gin — I’ve been using Wiggly Bridge. It’s a dry gin that doesn’t impose any floral flavors of its own and fight with the jasmine (see below).
• ¼ Campari — I still like the color and bitterness it brings to this drink.
• 1 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
• ½ ounce jasmine syrup (see below)

Combine all the ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker, and shake until extremely cold.

Strain into a martini glass.

Holding the glass by the stem, do the pretentious, wine-snobby, sniffing-the-drink-to-bring-the-scent-to-your-palate thing. Something like 75 percent of everything you think you taste actually comes from the smell of whatever you’re eating or drinking. In this case, you’ll want to take in the floral notes from the jasmine syrup.

Again, this is a very nice, adult-ish cocktail. It still has the pretty color and bitterness, but it’s a bit sweeter, to help bring the smell of jasmine to you. You may not have ever experienced fresh jasmine blossoms, but they are staggeringly good smelling. The jasmine syrup brings just a whisper of that to a weary world.

Jasmine Syrup

Ingredients

• 1 cup water — approximately 200 grams
• 1 cup white sugar — also, approximately 200 grams
• ½ cup dried jasmine blossoms — approximately 10 grams
• The juice of ½ a lime — a regular, grocery-store Persian lime, not a fancy lime with delusions of grandeur.

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan, and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally.

Boil for 10 to 15 seconds to make sure that the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from heat.

Stir the dried jasmine blossoms into the hot sugar syrup, cover, and leave to steep for 30 minutes.

Squeeze the lime juice into the mixture, and stir to combine. Strain into a bottle, then wait for the Call to Greatness.

Appletini

There isn’t a lot to say about the appletini, sometimes known as a sour apple martini. It was popular in the ’90s and was, I think, a plot point in an episode of Law and Order. Within a few years it became fashionable to sneer at, which must mean that there was something to it.

OG Appletini

Ingredients

• 1¾ ounces vodka
• 1 ounce sour apple schnapps — I used a tiny sample-sized bottle of 99 Apples, not wanting to commit to an entire full-sized one.
• ¼ ounce Rose’s Lime Juice
• ¼ ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
• ¼ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker, and shake until very cold.

Strain into a cocktail glass, and drink while wondering what ever happened to wearing overalls with one strap hanging loose.

There are any number of recipes for appletinis, in varying degrees of sweetness and potency. This is one of the more restrained versions. It is not overly sweet and it does retain a lot of the sourness that you might hope for, if not a great deal of actual apple flavor.

This is, frankly, a cocktail with a lot of potential for progress.

Modified, More Apple-y Version of an Appletini

Ingredients

• 2½ ounces apple brandy — I like Laird’s Applejack.
• 2 ounces apple cider — This will do most of the heavy lifting, apple-wise.
• ½ ounce yuzu syrup — see Citrus Sidebar

Combine all ingredients with ice and shake in a cocktail shaker until very cold.

Strain into a cocktail glass, and sip pensively, still thinking about the whole overalls thing and wondering if Dexy’s Midnight Runners and the Georgia Satellites were secretly the same group and if that’s why nobody has ever heard of any of them again.

This is a much better version of the appletini, partially due to the magical yuzu syrup and partially to the presence of actual apples. There is a citrusy sourness in the background, but a substantial apple flavor as well.

Espresso Martini

Of all these nostalgic ’90s cocktails, only one stands tall, self-confident, and without the need to be updated.

A lot of cocktails from this period are called “classics” in the sense that they have been around for quite a while and they have been popular for much of that time. An espresso martini is a true classic, in the same sense as a black tuxedo, or the tinkling of Audrey Hepburn’s laughter in Roman Holiday. It stands nearly perfect; it needs no tweaking.

The Espresso Martini

Ingredients

• 2 ounces coffee-infused vodka (see below)
• ½ ounce Kahlua
• ¼ ounce simple syrup
• 1 ounce cold brew concentrate — I like Trader Joe’s.

Gently pour all ingredients over ice in a mixing glass. Stir slowly, but thoroughly, until very cold.

Pour into a frosted martini glass.

Drink with your eyes closed, thinking of classy dames and piano jazz.

The great thing about a well-crafted espresso martini is that it combines the bracing aspects of a stiff drink, with the stare-you-in-the-eyes confidence of a really good cup of coffee. The caffeine is a plus, of course, but the real standout here is the richness of the coffee. It smiles at you and says, “You got this, Kid.”

Put another way: This is a very good cocktail. Keep in mind, though, that more than one of these babies might keep you up very late into the night watching old movies and possibly crying.

Coffee-Infused Vodka

Ingredients

• 10 grams French-roast coffee beans
• 6 ounces 80 proof vodka

Using a mortar and pestle, or the bottom of a heavy saucepan, gently crush the coffee beans. The idea here is to break them up into pieces, but not to grind them into powder.

Combine the coffee beans and vodka in a small, tightly sealed jar, and store in a cool, dark place for two days, shaking twice per day.

Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using in a cocktail.

Lemon Drop

I’ve got a friend who is a highly ranked competitive slam poet.

She and I have argued for years about the relative merits of poetry. Clearly, she is all for it. I, on the other hand, have reservations.

“There’s just so much bad poetry out there,” I have pointed out.

“No,” she has argued. “There’s no such thing as bad poetry!”

At this point, I have stared at her in stony silence, until the inaccuracy of this statement has collapsed on the floor with the sound of breaking glass.

“Okay, FINE!” she has responded. “Yes. There is a lot of bad poetry out there, but that doesn’t have any bearing on how good the good stuff is.”

I would like to argue that contention, if only out of obstinacy, but the fact that I’ve subscribed to a poem-of-the-day service for the past year would highlight my hypocrisy.

In that same spirit, someone could legitimately argue that a proliferation of bad lemon drop cocktails does not negate the excellence of a well-made one.

A Lemon Drop

Ingredients

• 2 ounces very cold vodka — I’ve been enjoying Ukrainian Heritage lately.
• ½ ounce triple sec
• 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lemon juice
• 1 ounce simple syrup

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker, and shake until very, very cold.

Strain into a chilled martini glass. Drink while still extremely cold.

The lemon juice carries most of the weight in a good lemon drop. It provides flavor, but even more importantly it adds acidity, which keeps the sweetness from becoming cloying. If you drink this while it is still extremely cold, it will sting your mouth a little, which suits its lemony-ness.

This is a delicious drink; it really is. I just think it might be better if it tasted more strongly of lemons. Let’s address that:

A Lemonier Drop

Ingredients

• 2 ounces very cold vodka
• ½ ounce limoncello
• 1 ounce homemade yuzu or lemon syrup
• 1½ ounces fresh squeezed lemon juice

Again, shake everything over ice, until extremely cold.

Strain into a martini glass.

This lemon drop is about as sweet as the original version — half an ounce of a sweet liqueur, and an ounce of syrup — and has the same amount of lemon juice, so the sweet/sour proportions are pretty much the same. The main difference here is the increase in citrus flavor.

Could you bump the lemon flavor even more by using a lemon vodka?

I’m not sure that’s legal in this state.

OK, You Knew This Would Be Showing Up Sooner or Later

The Cosmopolitan

The Cosmopolitan actually got its start in the 1970s, but really came into its own in the ’90s striding across the landscape of American happy hours like a pink colossus. Yes, Sex in the City. Yes, South Park. Yes, it eventually became a bit of a cliché.

But what we tend to lose sight of is that, in spite of all that, a cosmo can be a very good cocktail:

Carrie’s (or is it Samantha’s?) Cosmo

Ingredients

• 1 ounce vodka
• 1 ounce triple sec
• 1½ ounces cranberry juice cocktail
• ½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
• 2 dashes orange bitters

Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker, and shake until very cold.

Strain into a cocktail glass.

Drink while plotting world domination with a special friend.

Admittedly, a classic cosmo can be a bit on the sweet side — cranberry juice cocktail and a large slug of triple sec form a fairly sweet base — but lime juice and especially the bitters help balance things out. It has a tartness that makes your mouth water, which in turn gives it a very juicy mouth-feel. It tastes good, and drinking one can easily lead to drinking two, and the next thing you know, you are telling very personal secrets to your new friend, Julio, the Uber driver.

Can it be improved on? Maybe.

John’s Cosmo

Ingredients

• 2 ounces vodka — Let’s start by doubling the amount of vodka. The fruitiness of the final drink benefits from an authoritative booziness.
• 1 ounce yuzu syrup — It’s OK to keep things sweet; that’s part of a cosmo’s appeal. But triple sec tends to hide in the background; that’s what it’s good at. Let’s replace it with something that brings flavor to the party. If you haven’t been able to find any fresh yuzu, a fresh citrus syrup made from limes, lemons or even grapefruit will work well. The point here is that we want an assertive citrus flavor.
• 1½ ounces unsweetened pomegranate juice — Trust me on this. Your finished drink will still be pink. It will still be fruity — we just added yuzu, after all — but the pomegranate juice adds a bracing, no-nonsense spine to hang the other flavors from.
• ½ ounce makrut lime juice — We’ve just introduced three strong flavors. Our lime juice should be equally assertive. The leathery, acidic, slightly bitter, yes, Lemon Pledge-iness of the makrut juice is what you want here. If you haven’t been able to find any makruts, you might want to go with Key limes. The point is, send in a heavy hitter.

There is nothing complicated here — throw the Frenetic Four into a cocktail shaker full of ice, and let them fight it out. Shake until very cold. Because all the flavors are so powerful to start with, you might want to set the shaker aside for a few minutes, then reshake everything to dilute it slightly.

Strain into a cocktail glass.

You: “This is purple. You promised me it would be pink.”

Cosmopolitan: “Oh, I’m pink.”

You, taking a sip: “Wow! That’s, um, okay. But you’re still purple.”

Cosmo: “Really? Take another sip.”

You: “I repeat — Wow! Well, maybe pink-ISH purple.”

Cosmo: “Are you sure?”

You, taking another sip: “I think I’m starting to see Time.”

Cosmo: “And what color am I?”

You: “I’m going with pink.”

Cosmo: “And you’re talking to your cocktail.”

You: “You are a very good drink.”

Cosmo: “I do what I can.”

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Get to know this Community-friendly Comfort Dog, a very social emu, cuddle cows and other famous local animals

Many dogs, cats and other animals have roles that go beyond the traditional house pet. From friendly farm dwellers to shop cats to therapy or comfort dogs (and even a pony!), these beloved animals all have a unique story to tell.

Augustus & Moo

At Cats Kingdom, a cat-based pet store in Manchester, Augustus and Moo are the kings of the castle. Although they differ in personality and demeanor, the two have become best friends since sharing the throne. As a pet store dedicated solely to cats, Cats Kingdom has something that every feline will love, from food to furniture and toys.

Customers, and their cats, who come into the store will likely be welcomed by Augustus, who is “a great store greeter,” store owner Cathy Hilscher said.

Augustus is an 8-year-old long-haired, mixed-breed cat who was adopted six years ago from New Hampshire Kittens. Friendly, independent and outgoing, Augustus is a cat that customers gravitate toward.

Moo is a shyer, 5-year-old domestic shorthair who loves to see other cats come into the store. Originally from Florida, Moo had a rough start until he was adopted by Hilscher from Darbster Kitty, a nonprofit based in Manchester.

“He was returned a few times. I had been working with them years ago to help [with] adoptions and he had some health problems we’ll say. So finally three years ago I adopted him myself,” Hilscher said. “He was a work in progress. He has a lot of health issues, but I feel that he pretty much came to me for a reason.”

Cats Kingdom has earned a loyal customer base since its opening seven years ago. Hilscher was inspired to open the store when her late cat Pierre was diagnosed with kidney disease at the age of 18.

“I realized there wasn’t a lot out there for cats, [like] supportive measures, foods [and] holistic care. Just on a whim right down the street there was a ‘for sale’ sign, so I took out a … loan and I built it from the ground up,” Hilscher said.

The health problems that Pierre had are rather similar to one that Moo currently faces. With his kidney issues, an autoimmune disease, and a history of neglect, Hilscher considers Moo to be the underdog.

“He probably would not be alive now if I didn’t take him,” Hilscher said of Moo. “I think him happening to find a cat store that focuses on kidney support care and him being so young to have kidney problems [is] kind of … ironic, and I think he’s here for a reason.”

— Mya Blanchard

Augustus and Moo the cats
Where: Cats Kingdom, 679 Mast Road, Manchester
Hours: Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
More info: catskingdom.online, 935-8321

Charley Mopps Brewdog

Five-year-old Charley Mopps — or just Charley — is the official “brewdog” of Blasty Bough Brewing Co in Epsom. He was just a puppy when the brewery opened its doors on the grounds of McClary Hill Farm in early 2018, owner and head brewer Dave Stewart said.

“When we first picked him up, we were already in the process of building out [the brewery],” Stewart said. “There’s an old song, and it’s obviously fanciful, but it’s about Charley Mopps, who is the man who invented beer, and it rhymes with barley and hops. … So that’s where the name comes from. He’s really just Charley, but when he’s not being good, he’s Charley Mopps.”

Charley was adopted from 3 Dogs Rescue in Berwick, Maine. In the early days of the brewery — before, Stewart said, a food menu was introduced — patrons would often find Charley roaming the floors of the taproom. While he’s no longer allowed inside where food is served, Charley is still known to make regular appearances out on the outdoor porch seating area.

“At the end of the evening, the regulars that are there will ask for an appearance. Everybody will ask, ‘Where’s Charley?’ and so we all go outside and let Charley out,” Stewart said. “Charley also gets to eat whatever’s left in the hot dog steamer after the evening is over.”

Quickly becoming something of a local celebrity among the taproom’s regulars, Charley has his own “Charley Mopps seal of approval” T-shirts, and there’s even a brewed beer named after him. The Charley Mopps Brewdog stout is a smooth coffee-oatmeal stout that’s brewed with organic French roast coffee beans — it’s slated to make its return to the brewery’s lineup in time for the winter months, Stewart said.

More details on Charley’s adventures can be found at blastybough.com/charley-mopps-brewdog. He also has his own Instagram page @charleymoppsbrewdog, where photos of him and his “dog friends” at the brewery are shared.

“He’s got a cushion under my desk and he sleeps there while I’m doing office work, and then when I’m doing other stuff, he’s hanging around supervising,” Stewart said. “We call him the Wonder Dog, because he’s always wondering what’s going on.”

— Matt Ingersoll

Charley Mopps Brewdog
Where: Blasty Bough Brewing Co., 3 Griffin Road, Epsom
Hours: Friday, 4 to 9 p.m., Saturday, 1 to 9 p.m., and Sunday, 1 to 6 p.m. (be there around closing time for a chance to see Charley)
More info: blastybough.com, 724-3636

Clarissa, Ruby and Sadie

Sixteen horses live on the approximately 96-acre farm at UpReach, a therapeutic equestrian center in Goffstown. Among them are Clarissa, Ruby and Sadie.

Clarissa, a blonde Haflinger, is a fan favorite with an excellent work ethic. Now in her early 20s, she has been at the center since she was donated at the age of 7. Loving and outgoing, Clarissa is great with participants.

“She seeks people out,” said Allison McCully, the unmounted program director at UpReach.

Clarissa, also known as “The Driving Queen,” takes part in the hippotherapy and riding programs, and, as her nickname suggests, specializes in the therapeutic driving program in which she pulls carts.

Ruby is an expressive bay-colored Morgan who has been at UpReach for four years. She participates in the therapeutic riding program, giving walk, trot and canter lessons.

“Ruby knows she’s important and she likes being important. She wants to be good at everything,” McCully said.

Sadie, a 15-year old piebald Gypsy Vanner with a mellow, independent personality, was leased to UpReach in 2015. Her specialty is hippotherapy, but she is also involved in the therapeutic riding program. Her even-keeled demeanor makes her a perfectly hospitable horse.

“She takes care of people. She’s a caretaker,” McCully said.

UpReach serves about 160 participants with various challenges weekly. The participants can be anywhere from 3 years old to in their 80s.

“The challenges that people have vary. … It could be physical, could be emotional or … cognitive,” said Sara McCarthy, UpReach’s development director.

There are many ways to get involved and contribute to the cause and the horses at UpReach. One can volunteer, donate or even sponsor one of the horses.

“The sponsorship helps offset the cost of caring for a horse,” McCarthy said.

Sponsors get to have their picture taken with the horse they sponsor, receive a certificate, and get to go and spend time with the horse at the center.

“They’re doing all the hard work for us, so they deserve the best care that we can give them, and they get it here. … They’re very lucky horses,” McCarthy said.

— Mya Blanchard

Clarissa, Ruby and Sadie the therapy horses
Where: UpReach Therapeutic Equestrian Center, 153 Paige Hill Road, Goffstown
Hours: Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
More info: upreachtec.org, 497-5367

Cottonpuff the “unicorn”

When Deanna Levesque first encountered Cottonpuff at a rescue pen, she wasn’t sure the American miniature horse would have what it takes to be a “unicorn” for her entertainment service, NH Unicorns. Two weeks later she saw Cottonpuff again at a different rescue pen. She knew then that, unicorn or no unicorn, the horse was in need of a loving forever home.

“I couldn’t stand the thought of seeing this poor little thing being bounced from pen to pen until she was sick, hurt or worse,” Levesque said. “NH Unicorns had to save her. I didn’t care at that point if she would ever make it as a unicorn.”

As it turns out, Cottonpuff’s demeanor is a perfect fit for unicorn service. She’s sociable and huggable and loves nothing more than being the center of attention.

Well, that, and eating cupcakes.

“She loves vanilla cupcakes,” Levesque said. “That’s been her favorite part of going to kids’ parties.”

Standing at just under 36 inches tall, Cottonpuff is especially popular with the little ones. With her teddy bear-like features — big head, big eyes and big ears — rotund body and billowy white mane, Cottonpuff can be best described, Levesque said, as “the corgi of unicorns.”

“Her pretty white hair is so thick and fluffy, you can literally bury your hand in it,” she said.

Cottonpuff’s best unicorn quality is her ability to form a special connection with the children she meets.

“She’s been told by so many littles that she makes them feel safe, and that has been one of the highest compliments any of our animals has ever received,” Levesque said. “She has been the reason non-verbal children have spoken their first words. She has brought tears to the eyes of many parents as they witness the joy of their child’s unicorn encounter.”

Cottonpuff has become the most requested NH Unicorn, Levesque said, and though she officially entered retirement this past summer, she’ll take any opportunity she’s given to pop back into the spotlight and see her young fans.

“She always demands to be a part of things,” Levesque said. “We don’t take her out for long public events anymore … but she wants everyone to know she can still be seen at occasional visits to the farm.”

NH Unicorns is currently planning a rainbow birthday party at their farm in Barnstead to celebrate Cottonpuff’s 30th.

Cottonpuff the “unicorn”
NH Unicorns offers parties, special appearances and photo shoots at requested locations throughout New Hampshire and at its farm in Barnstead. To learn more about opportunities to meet Cottonpuff and the other NH Unicorns, visit nhunicorns.com or call 867-6228, and follow NH Unicorns on Facebook.

Dundee the emu

The Educational Farm at Joppa Hill in Bedford is home to many animals you’d expect to see at a New England farm — goats, cows, horses, sheep, chickens, alpacas — but there is one animal that may have you doing a double take.

Meet Dundee.

Dundee is an 8-year-old female emu, which is a large, flightless bird endemic to Australia.

“She’s a little unusual at our farm — a little different — but that’s part of what makes her so fun,” said Jessica Gilcreast, vice chair of the board for the farm. “She’s a species that’s not native to New England, and our visitors get to interact with her very closely, which they may not be able to do anywhere else.”

Dundee was hatched from an egg to a family in Maine. She was given to Live and Let Live Farm, an animal rescue and sanctuary in Chichester, in 2021, and adopted by The Educational Farm at Joppa Hill that same year.

Despite being the only emu at the farm, Dundee has had no trouble fitting in with the other animals. Standing over 5 feet tall and with a sprint speed of up to 30 mph, her closest companions are the horses.

“She lives with the horses in the horse pasture, and at night she’ll go into the trees to roost,” Gilcreast said. “During the winter, she lives in the barn … with a roommate, Trickster, a rooster. They keep each other company until the worst of winter is over.”

Dundee is very social, not only with her fellow animals but also with her human friends, especially if they come with a handful of her favorite snack, red grapes.

“She loves to interact with our visitors and volunteers and will often be at the fence to say hello,” Gilcreast said.

Though she’s lived at the farm for only a little over a year, Dundee has already secured her position as one of the farm’s most popular animals, her claim to fame being a penchant for wearing hats.

“She lets the volunteers put hats on her and take funny pictures. She never complains,” Gilcreast said.

You can see Dundee at the farm outside every day except during the winter, when you can see her as part of a guided barn tour. While you’re there, you can also purchase a cup of grain to feed Dundee and the other animals.

Emus can live to be up to 30 years old, Gilcreast said, “so we plan to have Dundee for a long time.”

— Angie Sykeny

Dundee the emu
Where: The Educational Farm at Joppa Hill, 174 Joppa Hill Road, Bedford
When: The farm is open daily from dawn to dusk
Cost: Admission to the farm is free. Purchase a cup of grain to feed Dundee and the other animals for $5.
More info: theeducationalfarm.org, 472-4724

Eddy the comfort pony

Eddy is a 23-year-old Shetland pony who is the newest member of the Manchester Police Department’s Mounted Patrol team. According to the Friends of the Manchester Mounted Patrol’s website, the horse and his riders — which include MPD officers Kelly McKenney and Brianna Miano, along with intern Hannah Beaudry — focus their patrols in the downtown area of Manchester and the city parks, with the goal to provide an approachable police presence. Patrolling on horseback also allows officers access to some places a police cruiser cannot go.

General Stark, a 17-year-old Clydesdale cross gelding; and Bruno, a 9-year-old Percheron cross gelding, round out the Mounted Patrol team.

“Although the full-size horses are an incredible asset, they are also intimidating for a lot of people, especially children,” Manchester Police spokeswoman Heather Hamel told the Hippo in an email. “A pony was a smaller, perfect addition to the team.”

According to Hamel, Eddy was a therapy pony prior to joining the department. He’s now a full-time comfort pony, visiting area schools, assisted living facilities, summer camps, community events and everywhere in between.

“He is a great way to engage with the public and is a great ice-breaker with children,” she said.

There are numerous requests for Eddy’s presence at public events, Hamel said, and they are even booking into 2023. The Mounted Patrol Unit is a nonprofit that’s funded through private donations. Visit mpdmountedpatrol.com or follow them on Facebook @friendsofthemanchestermountedpatrol to learn more.

— Matt Ingersoll

Eddy the comfort pony
Where: Manchester Police Department’s Mounted Patrol team, 405 Valley St., Manchester
More info: mpdmountedpatrol.com, 792-5432

Mischka the comfort dog

Mischka — pronounced “meesh-ka” — is a 3-year-old purebred English Labrador who joined the Bedford Police Department in early 2021 as its certified comfort dog. Bedford Police Officer Whitney Mansfield serves as Mischka’s handler.

“She was actually my personal dog … and I was already training her to be a service dog for myself,” Mansfield said. “I ended up bringing her to work after convincing my captain to see if she could just hang out with me at work, because I was just doing paperwork on light duty. … There had been talk here and there about [having] a comfort dog, and the department pretty much fell in love with her, and so I just started creating a program and taking on that role.”

Mischka, Mansfield said, is a certified therapy dog through the Alliance of Therapy Dogs, a nationally accredited therapy dog program. She also has a certificate of completion from a basic obedience training program at Hudson K-9 Training Center, based in Nashua.

Mischka was given her name while still a puppy at Bloomfield Labradors in Rindge.

“I did more research about it, and it actually means ‘bear’ in Russian, and she looked like a little bear cub when she was a baby, so that’s kind of where the name came from,” Mansfield said.

When Mischka isn’t responding to calls, she’ll accompany Mansfield on all kinds of community events — including, most recently, at a Trunk or Treat event put on by Bethany Covenant Church in Bedford. She also has her own Instagram page — follow her @mischka_the_bpd_comfortdog.

“Pretty much any event that the community has, we try to get out there … [and] introduce her to a variety of businesses, schools, stuff like that, just to create a positive relationship between the police and the community,” Mansfield said. “She can also be used on calls, so pretty much any call that can leave someone with traumatic stress, or we’ll go to calls where kids are involved. As long as a scene is safe and not still volatile, she can be used in pretty much any call, especially mental health-related calls.”

— Matt Ingersoll

Mischka the comfort dog
Where: Bedford Police Department, 55 Constitution Drive, Bedford
More info: Follow Mischka on Instagram @mischka_the_bpd_comfortdog to find out where she’ll be next

Mocha and the cuddle cows

While standard pets include dogs, hamsters, bunnies and cats, Brian Bradford chose a different type of animal.

“I’ve always wanted cows,” Bradford said. “I finally got the land and I had the space and the opportunity to do it, so I was like, ‘Alright, game on.’”

The three cows he first adopted — named Merl, Mocha and Moscato — were raised from bottle feeding to the full grown, nearly 2-year-old love bugs they are now. The herd, which includes a total of nine cows, all live on Bradford’s farm in Goffstown called Granite Oak Farm, and the three he first adopted are part of a program known as cow cuddling.

Bradford described the temperament of the massive animals as that of a big dog. True to that description, the cows were all extremely cuddly, giving licks with their rough, cat-like tongues, and rubbing their faces and horns against the metal fence.

Mocha, the most popular of the cow cuddlers due to her chocolate brown fur, is extremely affectionate, making sure that she gets as many scratches as possible from Bradford.

“I always loved going to the fairs and we spent a lot of time in the cow areas, and so you saw people want to constantly [be] with the cows, but a lot of them can’t spend much time with them,” Bradford said. “So I wanted to kind of bring that to everyone.”

While Bradford had intended to have Mocha and the two boys as his own pets at home, he saw how loving they were whenever he brought people around. He said that it sparked the idea to introduce the world to how affectionate and caring they are.

Even the baby cow, Caramel, who is kept separate from the herd until she becomes 3 months old, is incredibly affectionate, sucking on Bradford’s hand like a bottle and enjoying chin scratches from him. Bradford said he expects she’ll also be a cuddler once she’s old enough to join the herd.

Right now, cow cuddling isn’t available to the public at Granite Oak Farm. Due to some town ordinances, Bradford had to work on getting the farm set up with a better driveway and more accessibility for first responders.

He said that he expects the farm to open back up to the public sometime in December, after the town reviews everything. At that point, he hopes to have more than just the original three cuddlers available for people to choose from.

“They’re super-friendly,” Bradford said. “They are like a big dog. They will lick you and snuggle up against you and just love you. I think that’s probably what makes it such a huge bonding experience, because it’s such a large animal that you were just able to just be with.”

— Katelyn Sahagian

Mocha and the cuddle cows
Where: Granite Oak Farm, 233 Goffstown Back Road, Goffstown
When: Cow cuddling is not currently available to the public at the farm, but owner Brian Bradford expects it to reopen sometime in December.
More info: graniteoakfarm.com, 417-4637

Moo the python

Plaistow’s New England Reptile Distributors is more than just an exotic pet store. They offer a program to show off reptiles and other exotic animals — like Moo, the reticulated python — at parties and for educational events.

The store’s main level has a few live-in pets, including a chinchilla right by the front doors, as well as a petting zoo with chickens, goats and koi fish that visitors can feed. Inside, its walls are packed with aquariums of tropical fish, shoeboxes of tarantulas, and an assortment of snakes, from large ball pythons to small colubrids like rat snakes or hognoses. There’s even a venomous room filled with different species of vipers and cobras for people to meet.

Above the store is where the shop keeps reptiles that are used for educational events and for breeding programs. In one room, each case was filled with different pythons. Some cases held babies and their mothers, while others had individual snakes.

Tia McLaurin, a New England Reptile Distributors photographer and snake handler, opened the door to one of the bottom habitats in the python room. She and another handler pulled out the 90-pound snake with a couple of tugs.

“Once you get this big, you don’t really get scared of anything anymore,” McLaurin joked about Moo.

Moo, a 14-foot female reticulated python in the color calico cow, immediately started slithering around with her tongue darting in and out to get a better sense for what was going on around her.

“I’m with these guys all the time handling them,” McLaurin said, while Moo started slithering around and investigating everything from the snakes in the other enclosures to my camera bag. “It can be a bit nerve-wracking at times … but overall it’s a really rewarding job.”

McLaurin said that Moo is taken out to different events close to once a week during the busiest times of year. Because of this, she has a very docile and curious personality. McLaurin said that Moo has a lot of fun with kids and adults, with reactions ranging from excitement to mild nervousness at the size of the python.

McLaurin said that it’s important for people to realize that snakes, like Moo, are just regular animals and that they are probably much more afraid of us than we are of them.

“They’re curious, they’re smart [and] they’re beautiful animals,” she said. “They just need more respect than a dog or a cat.”

— Katelyn Sahagian

Moo the python
Where: New England Reptile Distributors, 149 Plaistow Road, Plaistow
Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
More info: newenglandreptilestore.com, 382-2772

Turbo and D’Ogee

While libraries are often a quiet haven for getting lost in a good book, sometimes children who are struggling readers need assistance. According to a Tufts University study, kids who read out loud to a dog are more likely to gain confidence and a love of reading.

Reading dogs are trained therapy dogs that come to local schools and libraries to help young kids gain confidence in reading out loud. For Pam McKinney, a dog trainer and manager at American K9 Country in Amherst, this is only one of the types of therapies they offer.

“Turbo knows to settle right down as soon as the child comes over with a book,” McKinney said about the 9-year-old Labrador mix. “He’ll get right into what I call his listening position, which is pretty much on his side with his head down. Sometimes the kids look a little disappointed when they finish their books. They say, ‘Oh no, he’s sleeping,’ and I say, ‘Oh, no, no, that’s his listening position.’”

Turbo was one of McKinney’s foster dogs at first, but she was looking to retire a previous therapy dog when he came into her life. She said that he had a very calm and fun attitude and was a very loyal dog, which made him great for training to be a therapy dog.

McKinney, who trains all her dogs, has two other therapy dogs — Caro, who is older, has since been retired, while D’Ogee is fairly new to being a therapy dog and now takes on most of the library visits. Both Turbo and D’Ogee also compete in agility and obedience competitions, and even attended a national agility competition in Florida later this year.

For dog therapy outside of libraries, Turbo would go to hospitals, chemo treatment facilities and nursing homes to provide a little bit of comfort there as well. While they haven’t been to hospitals since the beginning of the pandemic, McKinney said she hopes to return to some soon.

McKinney, who is a court-appointed special advocate for children and teens who have been abused, will often bring Turbo with her to meet with the kids. She said that Turbo will help the kids calm down and give her a chance to bond with them over something neutral, like a love for dogs.

“It’s really a good icebreaker and of course a lot of times the kids, especially teenagers, really don’t want another adult stranger in their life and don’t want to share anything,” McKinney said. “But if I bring my dog with me, then you know he’s something that they can focus on and it really helps them open up and be comfortable with me.” — Katelyn Sahagian

Turbo, D’Ogee and other reading dogs
Where: Dogs are trained at American K9 Country, 336 Route 101, Amherst
More info: americank9country.com

Yuka the Arctic fox

Yuka the Arctic fox is a 4-year-old New Hampshire state exhibit animal. Maria Laycox of Salisbury, Yuka’s licensed exhibitor, caregiver and partner, likes to call him a “fox ambassador” for all of the foxes of the Granite State — since becoming partners in 2018, Laycox and Yuka have given educational presentations at several area public schools and colleges as well as some other local venues, such as the Mt. Kearsarge Indian Museum in Warner.

When Yuka entered Laycox’s life, he was just five weeks old and still feeding on formula. Today, he mainly lives in a designated enclosure on her 116-acre property and enjoys a diet of chicken twice a day, as well as pellets that naturally include taurine, a chemical foxes need to survive.

Laycox and her husband and daughter are all certified handlers of Yuka. New Hampshire Fish & Game rules decree that Yuka cannot have contact with any of her pet dogs, or any family members that are not certified handlers.

During her presentations, Laycox will talk about Arctic fox species as a whole and answer questions from attendees, who are also welcome to take photos of Yuka in his cage.

“I have a minimum of five events that I do a year with him, but we get up close to 10-ish events a lot of times,” Laycox said. “We try to take him to places people enjoy seeing him. … He’s not a pet and was never brought here to be a pet. I always refer to him as my partner.”

According to Laycox, as an Arctic fox, Yuka is one of three species of fox — the other two being red and gray foxes — that come and go through the state of New Hampshire.

“He is part of what is called the true foxes. There are 37 [types of] foxes in the world, but there are only 12 true foxes,” she said. “You can tell that they are all of that variety, because they have that cute little short snout and those beautiful almond eyes and cute pointy little ears.”

The Arctic foxes, unlike the red and gray foxes, are nomadic, meaning they will follow a food source. If you’re lucky, Laycox said you’re most likely to see them during the wintertime.

“They can travel up to 2,800 miles a season, which is pretty phenomenal,” she said.

Another difference between Yuka and his red and gray fox cousins is that his fur coat will change color twice a year.

“He’s beautiful to watch change his colors,” Laycox said. “He goes from a gray-beige underside with a darker gray top [as] his summer coat, and then he’ll turn all white and it will actually come in to match the snow. It’s pretty amazing. … But it’s important to understand that all three of these foxes that we see here will have coat changes. They will molt twice a year, so if you see a fox in the spring and it looks pretty ratty, more than likely they are shedding.”

As Yuka’s exhibitor, it’s Laycox’s job to educate the public on resident foxes in the Granite State.

“People have to understand that these animals are here to help,” she said. “They are a forest cleanup crew … and are the No. 1 reason you’re not tripping over things out in the woods, because they eat everything.” — Matt Ingersoll

Yuka the Arctic Fox
Where: Maria Laycox of Salisbury, Yuka’s exhibitor and partner, will often make a few trips a year to local schools, colleges, nature centers, museums and other places. Frequented venues include the Mt. Kearsarge Indian Museum (18 Highlawn Road, Warner) and the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at Granite State College (25 Hall St., Concord).

Animals without names: raptors of New Hampshire Audubon

While the animals kept at New Hampshire’s Audubon centers don’t receive a proper name, that doesn’t make them any less special.

“The reason we don’t give them any names is because we try to keep them as wild as possible,” said Shelby Morelli, the Audubon’s head of educational programming. “When you name something it kind of turns into a pet, and these guys aren’t my pets.”

Every single raptor held at the Audubon has an issue with its wings. The bald eagle, who is more than 30 years old, had one of his wings amputated at the elbow. The red-tailed hawk, meanwhile, had surgery to fix a wing after it was hit by a car.

Because the animals were wild, Morelli said, it’s important to keep that separation with them. If they had normal lives, they wouldn’t need to be at the Audubon in the first place.

While all four birds of prey are on display, only the red-tailed hawk is glove-trained, meaning it listens to its handler and will do small tasks, Morelli said. These are among the enrichment programs that she conducts with the birds.

“The red tail’s enrichment is really the work that we do with him, so I’m getting him on the glove and kind of showing him around,” Morelli said, adding that one thing they’re working on is getting him more comfortable in his travel box. “He does like the box when we’re out because that’s kind of his safe place, but as soon as the door opens he wants to come out and see what’s going on.” — Katelyn Sahagian

Raptors of New Hampshire Audubon
Where: McLane Audubon Center, 84 Silk Farm Road, Concord
Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
More info: nhaudubon.org, 224-9909

Featured photo: Mischka the Bedford Police Department comfort dog. Courtesy photo.

NH coffee roasters discuss how they craft the perfect cup of joe

To understand and appreciate specialty coffee is to experience it. I didn’t know what a coffee cupping was prior to writing what you’re about to read, but when Kevin Clay of Mill City Roasting Co. invited me to partake in just that, I nonetheless felt compelled to accept his offer.

As I’d come to find out, a coffee cupping is kind of like a wine tasting — but for coffee beans. And as far as I’m concerned, there’s nothing better than that crisp smell of freshly ground coffee beans ready to be brewed in my morning’s cup of joe. I knew that I’d be in for a treat.

I arrived at Mill City’s Londonderry facility just in time to witness Clay pour three seemingly identical — but, in actuality, very different — freshly roasted coffees into a series of three small cups on a table. Two additional cups, one empty and one filled with water, accompanied them.

“They’re all going to smell and taste like coffee,” Clay told me, “but there’s definitely going to be subtle little differences in the taste and the flavor.” I must admit that this was where a trepidation on my part began to creep in — what if they all just smell and taste like the same cup of coffee and my senses overlook the intention of this exercise? I was pleasantly proven wrong.

Following Clay’s lead, I picked up a spoon and gently removed the residual film on the top of each cup, rinsing it in the cup of water in between. I then placed my nose right up against each coffee to test its aroma, starting with a Brazilian roast before following suit with a Colombian roast and an Ethiopian roast. After that, it was time to do some tasting.

“Basically, you want to aerate it as you bring it over your palate, [which] tastes things differently in different parts of your mouth,” Clay said. “You should get different characteristics.”

Tasting each of the three coffees one by one — slurping them from my spoon like a sommelier might slurp wine — I was surprised to find that, yes, I actually did pick up some variations, albeit very subtle. The Colombian coffee, for instance, tasted slightly sweeter and cleaner than the Brazilian coffee, while the Ethiopian coffee gave off a sensation that a dry wine might give your palate, a kind of full-bodied mouthfeel.

As Clay would tell me, this process of cupping is a popular industry technique among coffee roasters. It helps him and others make decisions about which coffees to purchase in larger quantities to prepare for roasting. It’s also an effective method for them to check on their own consistency by way of sample-sized roasts.

“Coffee, no different than wine, country to country and even within region to region of a given country, is going to have differences in the characteristics because of the micro-climates,” he said. “Everything that we do is focused on having the best cup of coffee that we can.”

Our coffee cupping exercise complete, I sat down with Clay to get his insight on the growing specialty coffee scene in New Hampshire. What follows are even more stories of how local coffee roasters and cafe and coffee bar owners have joined the specialty coffee movement, as well as where you can go to get that freshly roasted cup of joe.

A changing landscape

When Clay founded Mill City Roasting Co. in 1996, things were a bit different.

“The industry has really changed,” he said. “When we first started, our major competitors were New England Coffee out of Malden, Massachusetts, and then Green Mountain Coffee was the biggest one on the block. They’re still here and do a lot of business in our market, but mostly in convenience stores. … A lot of that specialty business is really gone.”

Starbucks, meanwhile, had yet to really make a stamp on the East Coast, only just opening its first store in Washington, D.C., a few years prior.

“Starbucks was primarily on the West Coast at the time, and they were really a phenomenon,” Clay said. “We used to travel out west to find out just what those guys were doing that was so different, because there really weren’t cafes here. There was a Gloria Jean’s around that used to sell bulk coffees and they had an espresso machine, but they really weren’t there to sell coffee drinks. They were selling sweet stuff.”

Clay estimates that you probably could have counted the number of coffee roasters in New Hampshire on one hand — such as around three, maybe four — back in the mid-’90s.

“When I first started in ’96, I thought to myself, Manchester is going to have espresso cafes on every corner in the next five years and we’re going to be right in the middle of it,” he said. “That didn’t happen.”

But what has happened — albeit, somewhat slowly and gradually — is a growing trend in specialty coffee roasters at home. Their stories for jumping into the coffee roasting world may vary, but they all had one thing in common: a desire to ditch the mass-produced stuff in favor of a really fresh, high-quality cup of coffee.

“When my husband and I ended up moving to New Hampshire, there just really weren’t coffee shops around, and if they were, it was Green Mountain Coffee or Dunkin’,” said Emeran Langmaid, founder of A&E Coffee & Tea, which operates a roastery in Nashua and a cafe in downtown Manchester. “Having that intentional coffee … was something that was very missing on the landscape. It was missing the point of development of the connection between the grower, the producer, and its quality. … And also, the sustainable elements of coffee and having a social impact, because coffee can do that.”

In Milford, Union Coffee Co. is another great example of how that connection can be made. Current Union owner and head roaster David Cianci had been working in the Peace Corps in Paraguay, eventually going from there to Colombia, where he was introduced to the work of coffee farmers.

“That’s where I got into coffee. … [I was] working on a coffee farm and understanding the coffee harvest, and just the processing and what it takes to get it from the plant to a product that’s ready for export,” Cianci said. “We were purchasing whole-bean coffee [at Union] … but then, you get to a point running a cafe when you’re just using so much whole-bean roasted coffee and you’re paying a lot for it, that it makes sense to start to finance your own roasting equipment. You do that and then it becomes a whole other revenue stream of selling your coffee.”

And on that note, Cianci said there are all different styles of available roasters.

“There are fluid bed roasters, which are pretty much like big warm pans that coffee sits in, and there are air roasters, where … you’re basically using hot air to roast the coffee,” he said. “The super-traditional one is what we have, which is a drum roaster. It’s either stainless steel or cast iron, and there are heating elements below it, and the drum spins around and the coffee cooks. After that, you reach a certain point where it will split open and you drop it out of the drum.”

A&E operates two Diedrich brand drum-style roasters, Langmaid said — the smaller of the two, a black roaster nicknamed “Black Betty,” is reserved for smaller and more complex coffee batches, while a much larger golden-colored roaster nicknamed “Big Honey” is used for larger batches. The differences, Langmaid said, have to do with each roaster’s air flow.

For some local roasters the coffee journey has been a little more unconventional. Mike Brown of Hometown Coffee Roasters in Manchester recalls first dabbling in coffee roasting with a popcorn popper he bought at a secondhand store.

“At the time, I was drinking Dunkin’ or just coffee you get at the grocery store, and I never thought it was all that great, so I just kind of started researching coffee in general and I came across an article on how you can roast coffee at home,” Brown said. “So I started roasting out of a little popcorn popper in my garage and then it turned out to be a great cup of coffee, even compared to the stuff you find on the shelf at a large grocery chain.”

Fast forward just a few short years and Brown now operates his own coffee bar on Old Granite Street in Manchester, also wholesaling to dozens of accounts including some local Hannaford Supermarkets. And in case you’re wondering, yes, he has graduated from the popcorn popper to a Diedrich brand roaster, capable of producing two dozen-pound batches at a time.

A deeper mission

Coffee is the seed of a fruit that, not unlike the apple, comes in all kinds of varieties.

“With apples, obviously sometimes they are green, sometimes red, sometimes they are sour, or some are better for baking. They have all of these different characteristics. Coffee is exactly the same way,” Langmaid said. “We’ve always had coffee come basically from all of the main growing regions around the world, so [that includes] Central and South America, Africa, and then the Asia-Pacific.”

According to Cianci, where coffee is grown, what altitude it’s grown at and what kind of harvest season a farmer has experienced are all important factors to consider when purchasing coffee.

“After coffee is picked, there are different ways to separate the coffee cherry from the bean that’s inside of it,” he said. “With natural processed coffee, it’s like a raisin, where it’s picked and put directly into a drying bed to dry in the sun. … That’s going to be where you get a lot of potential for those really funky interesting fruity flavors. Because the bean is in contact with the cherry, it has higher carbohydrates and sweetness content in general.”

Coffee roasters typically get their hands on the beans — known as green beans, not the vegetable but the industry term referring to unroasted beans — in one of two ways. Most producers, Langmaid said, are part of member-owned cooperatives and will sometimes sell their beans under their own name.

“The pros of doing that is if it’s a good quality, you can establish a name for yourself, and then you can negotiate higher prices with the buyer,” she said. “The drawback is if you don’t have those connections, or people just don’t pick your coffee, then it can just sit there. … The alternative is to sell coffee that’s just all blended together from all the producers, and that is sold on the co-op level so it’s sold by the co-op name.”

Langmaid said that A&E will purchase its beans both of these ways, via blends or what’s called single-origin, meaning there’s only one coffee from one place in your cup.

As for Union, Cianci said that about 70 percent of all their coffee is acquired through direct purchase agreements with farms in countries like Colombia and Guatemala.

“The fewer intermediaries there are, the more money is going to the farmer, the actual producer of the coffee,” he said. “That’s the bottom line.”

It’s understanding the importance of those relationships and maintaining a sense of transparency, Clay said, that makes purchasing single-origin green coffee beans so paramount.

“I’ve stood at a co-op … and I’ve watched a guy bring two or three bags of coffee beans on a donkey in Colombia. They take a sample of the bag and they put it out on the table and grade it, and he, that farmer, gets paid on the consistency and quality,” Clay said. “What I love about Colombia … is that the Colombian Coffee Federation is actually owned by the farmers. … So I look at that and I think, OK, they really have an opportunity to impact their lives and their income. People would not comprehend just how much work goes into it.”

From bean to cup
You’ve probably heard the terms “light roast,” “medium roast” and “dark roast” when it comes to coffee, but what do those mean when it comes to the drink’s production process? Emeran Langmaid of A&E Coffee & Tea said it all has to do with a roast’s time and temperature.
“A lighter coffee is just in the roaster for a shorter time period, and potentially at a little lower temperature,” she said. “Then, the longer you leave the coffee in the roaster, the higher the temperature you go. … Generally speaking, a lighter coffee is going to be a greater perceived acidity, so the more you develop that in terms of roasting, the more you diminish the acidity and develop sweetness as well. You’re caramelizing your sugars from fruity components into more lactic, chocolate or caramel components.”
David Cianci of Union Coffee Co. in Milford said there are two major events in a roast cycle: “first crack” and “second crack.”
“‘First crack’ is when the beans will reach a point where they’ll split open and a burst of water vapor comes out. You’ll hear them cracking, almost popping like popcorn,” he said. “After that, if you leave the coffee in long enough and you roast it dark enough, it will go through ‘second crack,’ where it will almost puff out a little more, even more like popcorn. … We actually use roasting software to track all the data from each roast, and when we hear the beans crack, we’ll mark that in the data.”

Get roasted

Just about everybody I spoke with for this story agreed that specialty coffee is on the rise in the Granite State, even just within the last few years. And that doesn’t only apply to the roasters themselves, either — it’s also on the consumer side.

“When I originally started roasting coffee about six years ago, I always wondered if specialty coffee was popular in New Hampshire … but I’ve come to find out that there’s a real desire for it and there’s a desire for consumers to want to learn about it,” Brown said. “I’m right there in the shop every day roasting coffee and I have at least two or three people a day coming over and asking me questions about it. And even to my surprise, a lot of people know a lot about it, but then there’s also a lot of people who just think of it as a cup of caffeine to wake them up in the morning. But then once you educate them on the journey that it takes from seed to cup, they are mesmerized by it.”

I was admittedly one of those people once upon a time. You can go into the coffee aisle of any major grocery store chain and see the roast date printed on any bag of whole bean or ground coffee. Sometimes that date is many weeks or even a month or more before the day you’re there.

“The stuff we do on our website is usually shipped the day it was roasted,” Clay said. “So, freshness in coffee is huge, and you’re just not going to get that at Dunkin’ or at Starbucks.”

Langmaid said that, while the espresso coffee shop culture remains most popular among younger generations, she believes the effects of the pandemic have altered that.

“Obviously a lot of people had to start drinking coffee at home and experiencing it in a different way,” she said. “There’s a trend, I think, across the board of being a home barista. And that isn’t necessarily getting an espresso machine, but maybe it’s just taking a few minutes to make your coffee at home, and investing in a good grinder. It’s kind of a swing in terms of how people are purchasing coffee and how they are experiencing it.”

New England Coffee Festival
A two-day event celebrating specialty coffee culture, the New England Coffee Festival debuted in downtown Laconia earlier this year. It’s presented by Wayfarer Coffee Roasters and packed with local speakers, workshops, vendors, samples and even a competitive “latte art throwdown.”
“Our goal … was to have a community event that brings coffee professionals and coffee consumers together, and really to build relationships and get people to try locally made products,” Wayfarer Coffee Roasters co-owner and festival organizer Karen Bassett told the Hippo in May. “We want to kind of give awareness to what specialty coffee is, and how there actually really is a lot of really good high-quality coffee right here in New England.”
According to Bassett, the inaugural event was a huge success, drawing around 5,000 attendees to the area and featuring more than 50 local vendors. Plans are already underway for the festival to return for a second year in 2023, to be held on Friday, May 19, and Saturday, May 20. That event will feature even more hands-on workshops and outdoor vendors, as well as a latte art throwdown in front of a grand audience on the Main Stage of Laconia’s Colonial Theatre.

Local specialty coffee roasters

Here’s a list of local cafes, coffee shops and small-batch roasters offering specialty house roasted coffees. Do you know of a coffee roaster based in the Manchester, Concord or Nashua area that’s not on this list? Let us know at [email protected].

A&E Coffee & Tea

1000 Elm St., Manchester; 95 Northeastern Blvd., Nashua, 578-3338; aeroastery.com

Established in 2001 by Emeran Langmaid, A&E was the first USDA-certified organic coffee roaster to come to New Hampshire. The company sources all types of single-origin coffees from around the world with an emphasis on sustainability. In addition to a cafe in downtown Manchester, A&E operates a roastery in Nashua where bagged beans and teas are sold.

Blue Harbor Coffee Co.

446 Lafayette Road, Hampton, 601-8802, blueharborcoffee.com

Coskun Yazgan’s family has been roasting their own coffee beans for more than three decades at Caffe Kilim in Portsmouth. Arriving in downtown Hampton in late 2019, Blue Harbor Coffee Co. became Yazgan’s own space to create his own unique coffee blends and baked goods. The small-batch roaster of artisan coffees sources its beans from all over the Coffee Belt, including Central America, Africa and even Papua New Guinea.

Bonhoeffer’s Cafe & Espresso

8 Franklin St., Nashua, 883-6879, bonhoefferscafe.com

Just steps away from Main Street in downtown Nashua, Bonhoeffer’s serves its own house-roasted direct trade coffee, plus a food menu of crepes, breakfast sandwiches and burritos, paninis, wraps and salads. Profits from the sale of Bonhoeffer’s roasted coffee go to the cafe’s sister nonprofit organization, Hope and Life for Kids.

Breaking New Grounds

50 Main St., Durham, 868-6869, bngcoffee.com

Founded in 1993 in Portsmouth, Breaking New Grounds has been a go-to spot in Durham for its in-house roasted coffees since 1997. Beans are often roasted three to four times a week and have origins in multiple major growing regions in Central and South America as well as Africa.

Caffe Kilim and Market

163 Islington St., Portsmouth, 436-7330, caffekilim.com

In addition to brewed coffees and a full espresso bar of drinks using its own roasted beans, Caffe Kilim is known for its Turkish market, featuring a variety of specialty and natural foods.

Cindia Jackson’s Fine Gourmet Coffee

650 Amherst St., Nashua, 345-5566, cindiajackson.com

With more than 2,000 coffee varieties, Cindia Jackson’s is known for featuring one of the largest coffee lines around. According to owner Jim Flowers, the business is named as a tribute to his mother, who became interested in coffee way back in 1949, at the age of 12 — working as a waitress with her mother, who was a cook, Jackson took it upon herself to add vanilla, maple syrup, honey and other sweet ingredients to brewed coffees. It’s with that creative spirit that Flowers and his wife have carried on her legacy. Coffees are roasted just a block up the road from the Cindia Jackson’s retail shop on Amherst Street in Nashua, with just about every flavor imaginable. There’s even a “Booze Brew” line of more than 30 alcohol-flavored coffees (which, of course, are non-alcoholic).

Clarena’s Coffee

Laconia, clarenascoffee.com

Based in New Hampshire Lakes Region, Clarena’s Coffee is known for sourcing its beans entirely from women-owned farms in Colombia and Brazil. Locally, you can find custom blends and roasts at Dancing Lion Chocolate (917 Elm St., Manchester).

Coffee Coffee

326 S. Broadway, Salem, 912-5381, coffeecoffeenh.com

Coffee Coffee owner Barry Goldman has been roasting coffee beans from all over the world since 1966. Located on South Broadway in Salem near the Methuen, Mass., state line, the shop has a special organic coffee roaster Goldman uses to roast thousands of beans from around the world every day. Coffee Coffee even makes its own coffee ice cubes, blended with several different types of roasted coffees.

The Coffee Factory

55 Crystal Ave., Derry, 432-6006, mycoffeefactory.net

Established by the Yorke family in 2008 in their hometown of Derry, The Coffee Factory roasts its own beans on site to produce a full line of hot and iced coffees and espresso drinks. The spot also offers breakfast and lunch sandwiches, and regularly maintains a schedule of open mic events.

Critical Mass Coffee

Manchester, criticalmasscoffee.com

Ryan Connor was a 22-year veteran of the engineering industry before he and his wife, Leah, got into coffee roasting, originally as a hobby. Founded in 2018, Critical Mass Coffee is an organic coffee roastery based in Manchester that sources its beans from all over the world’s major growing regions. In addition to operating an e-commerce website, Critical Mass Coffee sells to some area restaurants, cafes and independent retailers. They’re also a featured vendor at the Made in New England Expo, due to return to the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown on Saturday, Dec. 3, and Sunday, Dec. 4.

Farmhouse Roasters

163 Main St., Salem, 458-7172, farmhouseroasters.com

Roasting its own beans from a variety of growing regions, Farmhouse Roasters always offers fair trade, organic and other certified coffee options. Its cafe features a full line of hot and iced drinks in addition to breakfast and lunch sandwiches, baked goods and more.

Flight Coffee Co.

209 Route 101, Bedford, 836-6228, flightcoffeeco.com

Claudia Barrett’s experience in specialty coffee stretches back more than 30 years. Flight Coffee Co. got its start more than a decade ago with one small commercial coffee roaster in the garage of Barrett’s Bedford home. Since then, her company has expanded — now offering everything from specialty coffees and espresso drinks to bagels and pastries — and has experienced recognition at the national level, winning multiple coffee competition awards and being featured in the coffee industry trade magazine Roast several times. In 2013 Barrett became the first Certified Q Grader in New Hampshire, a professional coffee cupper accredited by the Coffee Quality Institute. She would soon launch a coffee roastery on Harvey Road in Bedford, eventually turning an adjacent space into what she called a “satellite cafe.” Last year she moved all operations to a new flagship space across town, taking up a portion of the former Harvest Market store on the corner of Wallace Road and Route 101.

Granite Ledge Coffee

Canterbury, graniteledgecoffee.com

Christopher Evans got his start in the coffee world when his beans were roasted in iron skillets, brought to temperature in an electric oven. Over the last few decades, Granite Ledge Coffee has grown to now offer all kinds of specialty roasted coffees sourced from farmers across the world. Coffee by the pound is available for sale at the Concord Farmers Market, which wraps up its outdoor season on Saturday, Oct. 29, from 8:30 a.m. to noon on Capitol Street.

Hometown Coffee Roasters

80 Old Granite St., Manchester, 703-2321, hometownroasters.com

Mike Brown started Hometown Coffee Roasters as a hobby in the garage of his Bedford home, eventually expanding it into a commercial roastery. In October 2018 he moved the business into his current space in Manchester, where he also launched a coffee bar by the summer of 2020. Brown sources his coffee beans from all of the major growing regions, including Central and South America and Africa.

Horseshoe Cafe (Kozuma Coffee Co.)

171 Main St., Newmarket, 292-5280, find them on Facebook @horseshoecafenewmarket

Norihiro Kozuma, who’s originally from Japan, and his wife Sarah of the Kozuma Coffee Co. opened the Horseshoe Cafe back in 2017, after Norihiro became interested in home coffee roasting. The cafe features a variety of hand-selected artisan coffees roasted in house, along with a menu of small-batch baked goods and pastries, and sandwiches on scratch-made breads.

Java Joe’s

59 Route 27, Raymond, find them on Facebook @javajoesraymondnh

Paul Lynn of Raymond launched this drive-thru shop, which offers specialty coffees, teas and various breakfast items, in 2015. Lynn built the 300-square-foot drive-thru himself and roasts his own coffee beans in house, which include Colombian, Sumatran and several other varietals. Java Joe’s also features a full line of espresso drinks, including macchiatos and chai lattes, and egg and cheese sandwiches available on English muffins, bagels or croissants.

King David Coffee Roasters

48 Bridge St., Nashua, 577-8899, kingdavidcoffee.com

Using a traditional drum roaster, Sam Brest of King David Coffee Roasters can produce up to 30 pounds of roasted coffee at a time. Brest got his start in the coffee roasting industry back in the early 2000s, owning his own sandwich shop in Nashua for about 14 years before. His beans are only single-origin, coming all over the major growing regions of Central and South America, Africa and Indonesia. Brest also operates a commercial kitchen, producing and selling his own kettle corn.

La Mulita Coffee

15 Sagamore Road, Rye, 858-1019, lamulitacoffee.com

This Rye coffee bar and roastery is unique for highlighting multiple growing regions in Colombia — it’s the brainchild of Max Pruna, who himself was born and raised in the Colombian city of Medellín. Pruna’s coffee roasting journey began in his own home garage before he opened La Mulita in September 2019. In addition to serving specialty Colombian coffees and espresso drinks, La Mulita partners with several local businesses to offer food items like bagels, doughnuts and scones.

Lucas Roasting Co.

7 King St., Wolfeboro, 605-5484, lucasroasting.com

Offering both single-origin coffees and gourmet blends, Lucas Roasting Co. is a small-batch roastery in Wolfeboro that also features a small walk-in cafe space where you’ll find a hot and cold beverages as well as assorted food items.

Miles to Go Coffee Roasters

Chester, 887-4343, milestogocoffee.com

Ed Karjala of Chester turned his hobby of home coffee roasting into a business in late 2018. Miles to Go Coffee Roasters, run by Karjala with the help of his wife, Christi, will usually have six or seven different coffee products available — some are single-origin, while others are blends of two or more origins. Bags of Karjala’s coffees are available for sale at the Chester General Store (2 Haverhill Road) and via his website.

Mill City Roasting Co.

Londonderry, millcityroasting.com

Kevin Clay has decades of experience in the specialty coffee industry, having founded Mill City Roasting Co. in 1996. Sourcing its beans from several major growing regions across Central America, South America and Africa, Mill City Roasting Co. operates a production facility in Londonderry, roasting and selling its coffees under the brand names Cafe Du Jour and Java Tree Gourmet Coffees. Coffees are sold in several restaurants and stores across southern New Hampshire and, as of 2020, now available for sale direct-to-consumer through an e-commerce website.

Natalie’s Coffee

Derry, nataliescoffee.com

Based in Derry, the family-run Natalie’s Coffee has been roasting fresh gourmet coffee on demand since 2001, according to its website. You can also find their coffee used exclusively at Janie’s Uncommon Cafe (123 Nashua Road, Londonderry).

New Hampshire Coffee Roasting Co.

7 Sumner Drive, Dover, 740-4200, nhcoffee.com

This small-batch coffee roaster sources its beans from all of the major growing regions around the world. At the start of 2020, the Barretto family of Dover took over all of the company’s operations. You can find New Hampshire Coffee Roasting Co. in several area restaurants and specialty stores, as well as for sale online or at its Dover factory outlet.

Porcupine Coffee Roasting

Pembroke, porcupinecoffeeroasting.com

Amber White had been roasting her own coffee beans on and off for a few years as a hobby prior to transitioning into a commercial business. Porcupine Coffee Roasting, she said, started during the Covid lockdowns of 2020 — White is now mainly based online, although she is a featured vendor at a few local farmers markets in the summer, and you can also find her coffees at Sweet River Farm (175 North Road, Deerfield). Currently in her roastery, White has beans sourced from countries like Mexico, Colombia, Sumatra, Peru and Ethiopia.

Port City Coffee Roasters

801 Islington St., Portsmouth, 433-3011, portcitycoffee.com

Established in 1992, Port City Coffee Roasters sources its own beans from multiple growing regions around the world with an emphasis on sustainability. In addition to offering coffees at its own cafe, Port City Coffee Roasters partners with area restaurants and cafes that use its roasted beans.

Revelstoke Coffee

100 N. Main St., Concord, revelstokecoffee.com

Revelstoke Coffee came to downtown Concord in December 2018. Owners Alex Stoyle and Lyndsey Cole became inspired to open their own shop following an overnight stay the previous year in the Canadian community of Revelstoke, a small city roughly between Vancouver and Calgary. With a menu of freshly roasted coffees and teas, along with a rotating lineup of baked goods and breakfast sandwiches, Revelstoke Coffee is a shop built on the themes of travel and discovery.

Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe

35 Railroad Square, Nashua, 578-0200, riverwalknashua.com

Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe uses an old-school Turkish drum roaster to produce its small-batch roasted coffees. According to owner Rachel Manelas, a wide array of different beans are roasted, with origins from Colombia and Brazil to Ethiopia and Kenya. Roasted beans are available for pickup or can be shipped out through Riverwalk.

Stone Hammer Coffee Roaster

Concord, [email protected]

Chris Wible started experimenting with small batches of test roasts in the late spring of 2021, officially launching Stone Hammer by the end of that summer. An avid cyclist, Wible offers several single-origin coffees that are bike-themed in name, and he’ll make local deliveries via bicycle. Other spots where you can find Stone Hammer’s coffees include Georgia’s Northside (394 N. State St., Concord) and The Country Spirit (262 Maple St., Henniker) — both eateries also incorporate Wible’s coffees into their menu items.

Union Coffee Co.

42 South St., Milford, 277-3181, unioncoffee.co

A stone’s throw away from the Milford Oval, Union Coffee Co. came to town in 2014. Prior to joining the Union team in 2017, current owner David Cianci spent two years with the Peace Corps working with farmers in South America, where he developed an understanding of the coffee harvest and the processing of the beans. About 70 percent of Union’s coffee beans are acquired through direct purchase agreements with farms in countries like Colombia and Guatemala.

Wayfarer Coffee Roasters

626 Main St., Laconia, 527-8313, wayfarerroasters.com

A producer of small-batch house-roasted coffee blends with two cafe locations in Laconia, Wayfarer Coffee Roasters sources its beans from all over the world. In addition to their cafes, you can find Wayfarer’s coffees in more than 30 locations across central and northern New Hampshire, and they ship all across the country through their online store. Wayfarer co-owner Karen Bassett also organizes the New England Coffee Festival, which is due to return to down town Laconia for its second year next May.

White Heron Tea & Coffee

601 Islington St., Portsmouth, 294-0270, whiteherontea.com

Established in 2005, White Heron is known for roasting a wide variety of its own organic coffees, sourced from several different growing regions.

White Mountain Gourmet Coffee

Epsom, wmgconline.com

Formerly operating a cafe on Pleasant Street in downtown Concord, White Mountain Gourmet Coffee is now exclusively an e-commerce website and wholesale specialty coffee roaster. Its own roasted coffees are available in several restaurants, country stores, cafes and gift shops across the state.

William & Sons Coffee Co.

Loudon, wsonscoffee.com

William & Sons Coffee Co., which came to Loudon in 2021, originally began as a small boutique roaster in the city of Porto Alegre, Brazil. A variety of roasted coffees are available, sourced from regions in Colombia, Tanzania, Rwanda and other countries.

Witching Hour Provisions

905 Main St., Hopkinton, 505-8107, witchinghourprovisions.com

Witching Hour Coffee began as a small-batch roaster in the fall of 2020. By the following summer, the business became a regular vendor at local farmers markets before Witching Hour Provisions would open in Hopkinton that December. In addition to offering freshly roasted bags of its coffee, the shop sells a variety of home and personal care products.

Woodshed Roasting Co.

116 Hounsell Ave., Laconia, 737-2000, woodshedroast.com

Woodshed Roasting Co. started in 2010 with a small sample roaster and has since grown into a retail storefront that’s open five days a week. Its coffees are also available in several restaurants, stores and other businesses in the Granite State.

Featured photo: Photo courtesy of Critical Mass Coffee.