Wines for barbecuing

What to pair with cooking and eating outdoors

Memorial Day weekend! Seems like just yesterday we were still blowing snow, but now the heat is upon us. Temperatures and the pollen count are rising, but after our long, cold winters it is time to get out and enjoy the great outdoors. What better way to do that than to barbeque our favorites: beef, pork, chicken, fish, vegetables and, yes, fruit! Everything tastes better when cooked and eaten outdoors! And we welcome the opportunity to try out new marinades, toppings, recipes.

While your food is on the grill, you need something to “wet your whistle.” I suggest something light and summery. Our first wine fits that description perfectly. The 2020 Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie,available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally priced at $11.99 and reduced to $8.99, is a medium-bodied, lively and elegant Italian white wine. Made from grapes harvested in the vineyards of Delle Venezie, northeastern Italy, this wine offers delicious flavors of crisp golden apple, citrus and pear. Ruffino’s status was well-established when its Chianti won awards in the fourth quarter of the 19th century. This wine carries on that reputation by Ruffino’s sourcing premium grapes, combined with traditional wine-making processes of fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Chilled, this wine can be sipped alone or paired with light fare such as prosciutto, cheese, a bruschetta or a light salad.

Our next wine, the 2021 Joel Gott California Sauvignon Blanc, available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally $13.99 and reduced to $10.99, is the perfect complement to grilled shrimp, scallops, swordfish, or marinated and grilled chicken and vegetables. The wine has a bright straw color. Citric notes greet the nose, along with other fruit — melons and peaches. On the palate, bright tropical notes appear with strong acidity, followed by a crisp finish of sweet red grapefruit. The 100 percent sauvignon blanc grapes come from Sonoma and Lake counties to Monterey and Santa Barbara. Why the diverse vineyard locations? According to the Joel Gott website, Sonoma vineyards offer flavor and complexity, Lake vineyard offer citric notes, and Monterey tropical notes. Santa Barbara grapes offer minerality, and this blending of grapes across hundreds of miles produces a balanced, food-friendly wine.

For those who are drawn to red wines rather than white, a bottle of Beaujolais, made from the gamay grape, is the wine to pair with grilled chicken, hamburgers, grilled pork, sausage, salmon or tuna.The 2018 Robert Debuissson Beaujolais-Villages, available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets, originally $16.99 and reduced to $8.99, is a wine that can work with a wide variety of entrees. In the glass the color is a deep cherry red with slight purple tints. To the nose the wine is fresh with strawberries and cherries. The fruit persists on the tongue with a lightness that allows it to pair well with rich, oily fish such as salmon and tuna or grilled chicken and still be bold enough to be paired to hamburgers. This is a fruity wine with light tannins and a soft texture that is somewhat lower in alcoholic content than more robust reds.

For steak-lovers there is no better match than a wine from Bordeaux. The 2016 Château La Gorre Cru Bourgeois from Medoc, originally priced at $49.99 and reduced to $23.99, is a superb blend of 60 percent merlot, 35 percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent petit verdot. The color is ruby red; there is rich, deep blackberry, plum and cherries on the nose with more fruit, leather, and spice on the tongue. The right amount of tannins from aging on oak makes this a balanced bottle of wine, but these tannins dictate the bottle should be decanted a couple of hours in advance to allow it to open. This is a great wine to be drunk now or cellared to be enjoyed with that steak in a couple of years.

Warming weather begs us to get out and barbecue. Plan your meal, pick your entrée, and pair some great wine to be quaffed while cooking, along with more wine to pair with what is being served. Enjoy

Featured photo. Courtesy photo.

Cookout season is here

Long weekends await; get your beer cooler ready

When I opened up the lid, something flew out or scurried out. I’m still not totally sure. Was it a bird or maybe a chipmunk or something else? The movement was fast, apparently too fast for me to realize what I was seeing.

Regardless of what it was, I think we can be fairly sure it was a pretty good indication I’d left my grill unattended for too long.

Usually I grill pretty much all year long, but for whatever reason, not this past year, and the grill remained dormant for the entire winter and the bulk of the spring. I deserved my rude greeting when I peered inside the lid.

This is all to say that, yes, cookout season is here and you should definitely get your grill ready to go if you haven’t already. You should also start thinking about the beers you want to enjoy during the many, many cookouts you’re likely to attend or host, formally or informally.

Is it a cookout without beer? Only you can answer that question.

Of course, we have Memorial Day weekend bearing down on us and the Fourth of July will be here before we know it, even if it doesn’t seem that way right this minute.

Year-round, I think weather plays a major role in your beer choices. I don’t want to speak for you but on a hot day you’re going to want something light and refreshing. On a cold day, you’re more apt to pick something a bit heavier, a bit more robust.

That goes for cookouts, too. Especially this time of year, the weather is still a crapshoot. Last Friday we were in the 80s but just days before that it was cold and raw as we all tried to properly celebrate our moms.

Your beer choice also depends on time of day, food choices and, you know, what’s in the cooler. A midday cookout generally screams, “grab something light,” to me, whereas an evening cookout calls out more subtly, “go for the double IPA.”

It’s more complex than that, though. How long are you planning on staying? Are you going to eat something while you’re there? (You should.) Are you going to be participating in activities, such as Wiffle ball or volleyball, or maybe something less active, like cornhole?

I tend to think that as your activity level increases at a cookout, the ABV of the beer should decrease. (Do you want to just play iffle ball or would you like to win?)

And, what’s on the menu at this cookout? Are you digging into burgers and dogs, marinated steak tips or chicken breast, or maybe you or the host is grilling up spicy Italian sausage. Give it a second to consider what might be best paired with the food you are eating.

Don’t overthink it, though. You’re at a cookout, after all. Relax and grab a beer.

Here are three New Hampshire beers to enjoy during cookouts this year:

Tie Dyed Dry-Hopped Pale Ale by Great North Aleworks (Manchester)

Light, crisp and hoppy — this goes with everything.

Prater Vienna Lager by Henniker Brewing Co. (Henniker)

As the brewery says, this is “bready and crisp,” and perfect for sipping in between Wiffle ball at-bats.

Mountain Priest by Portsmouth Brewery (Portsmouth)

Dark and earthy but surprisingly light and dry — nice for a relaxing evening cookout or some smoky, sweet barbecue.

What’s in My Fridge
Daytime IPA by Lagunitas Brewing Co. (Petaluma, Ca.)
This comes in at 98 calories and just three carbs and as I’m a man of a certain age, I apparently need to pay attention to such things. And, as such, I decided to give this a try. It was perfectly fine! I mean, this isn’t going to satisfy an ardent IPA enthusiast. But if you’re intrigued by a very light beer with just a touch of hop bitterness, this is worth a shot. It’s only 4 percent ABV so I think you’re allowed to have several. Cheers.

Featured photo. Cookout season is here. Pair with beer. Photo by Marek Mucha.

Amarone amore

A look at the wine made from dried grapes

Wine made from raisins? Some credit this technique to the Romans, while others say it originated in the medieval period. Matters not; it is an ancient technique of the Verona Province in the Veneto region of Italy.

The wine known as Amarone della Valpolicella was assigned a “designated controlled area” or Denominazione di Controllata (DOC) status in 1990, with both the Villa Vetti and Secoli Amarones being promoted to the status of Denominazione di Origine Controlla e Garantita (DOCG), “a guaranteed designated controlled area.” Impressive credentials!

According to the Wikipedia entry on Amarone, the grapes for Amarone wine are harvested ripe in the first two weeks of October, by carefully choosing bunches having fruits not too close to each other, to allow air to flow through the bunch; the grapes are traditionally dried on straw mats. This concentrates the remaining sugars and flavors, Wikipedia said.

After drying, usually for around 120 days, the grapes are crushed and go through a dry, low-temperature fermentation for another month or two, then are aged in oak barrels for 36 months before bottling. Wikipedia notes that this traditional method of drying grapes for Amarone can lead to variations in the wine and therefore the bulk of modern Amarone is produced in special drying chambers under controlled conditions to minimize handling and prevent the onset of fungus. The quality of the grape skin brings the tannins, color and intensity of flavor to the wine, the entry said.

Our first wine is a 2016 Villa Vetti Amarone Della Valpolicella (originally priced at $59.99, reduced to $29.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets). It has a rich red color, with berries to the nose and initially to the tongue. The taste develops into residual notes of raisins and figs, along with some spice, lingering and subsiding gradually. There are tannins, which subside with decanting. This is a dry wine to pair with rich foods, due to the strong flavor profile and high alcoholic content at 15 percent.

Our second wine is a 2017 Secoli Am rone Della Valpolicella (originally priced at $49.99, reduced to $22.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets). Like the first wine, this has a deep red color, but with plum and black cherries to the nose and tongue. These are joined by notes of figs and rich dried fruit, along with chocolate. The tannins of this wine, coming from the grape skins and reinforced by three years of aging in oak, subside with decanting. This is a wine to be enjoyed with beef, lamb, game or robust cheeses, such as a rich, creamy blue cheese. The alcoholic content is not given for this Amarone, but its dry notes and strong “legs” on the side of the glass imply it’s at least 14 percent.

Good Amarone wine has a reputation for aging. While these wines are five and six years old, they have only been bottled for two or three years. Cellared properly, these wines can age another 10 to 15 years.

So try something different, a new, old-fashioned wine — one made from raisins! You will enjoy it!

Featured photo. Courtesy photo.

Rhubarb margarita

When you were in school, did you ever have one of those teachers who always went off-topic?

You know the type: He was supposed to be lecturing on the Dewey Decimal System or something, and he would tell the class a story about a haberdasher he used to know in Cleveland, who had nine fingers and a dog named Sylvia.

And yet — somehow — he would end up circling around and making an important and pertinent point about the actual subject. Anyway, this is one of those stories:

My teenager and I had just finished our Taekwondo class and were driving home. The Teen asked if we could stop at our favorite convenience store, because if she didn’t eat some chocolate-covered pretzels immediately, she would die, messily in the passenger seat.

I grabbed a diet orange soda and was waiting at the front counter, while The Teen gave the variety of pretzels the intense scrutiny they required.

Two clerks were on duty. I know one of them pretty well — I’m a regular customer — but the other was clearly new. I nodded at each of them.

We had just come from martial arts class, and it was a sparring week, so not only was I in uniform and unpleasantly sweaty, but I had also just taken a beating.

“Rough week?” my regular clerk asked.

“Man!” I replied. “I dropped some bad powdered unicorn horn over the weekend. The guy said it was pure, but I think it was cut with some of that South Korean stuff….”

“I hear you,” my friend said.

I continued. “I’ve got a cousin who managed to score me some pixie dust on Monday, and that helped a little, but I kept floating a foot off the couch, and I couldn’t play XBox properly.”

“We’ve all been there,” Clerk No. 1 said, comfortingly.

At this point, Clerk No. 2 was extremely confused.

“I mean,” I said with real frustration in my voice, “I’m just trying to stop the tentacles. You know what I mean?”

Clerk No. 1 nodded understandingly and patted my shoulder. Clerk No. 2 started to say something, then thought better of it. The Teen found her snack. I paid, and we left.

As we walked out the door, I heard Clerk Number Two ask, “Is he always like that?”

“Yeah, pretty much,” said his colleague.

This is my point: It’s been a rough week and you could use a pretty pink drink.

Rhubarb Margarita

  • 2 ounces blanco tequila — I like Hornitos.
  • 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice
  • ¾ ounce rhubarb syrup (see below)

Add all ingredients and 4 or 5 ice cubes to a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously.

Pour unstrained into a rocks glass.

Regardless of how you start this drink, it will have an effect on you. I am a grumpy, walrus-like man in late middle age. By the time I finished shaking this, I found myself wearing a tutu and sparkle-shoes.

This is a tart, refreshing take on a traditional margarita. The lime juice and tequila are the dominant tastes, but there is a tart fruitiness in the background that you would not be able to identify if you were drinking this blindfolded — which, for what it’s worth, sounds like a really great way to spend a weekend, making new friends. That’s the rhubarb. It’s delicious but prefers to stay in the background, steering this cocktail in delicate and happy directions.

Yeah, that’s really pretty and all, but I’m not the world’s biggest fan of tequila.”

Fair. Replace the tequila with white rum, and you’ll have something we might call a Blushing Daiquiri.

What if I’m 9 years old?”

You’re not supposed to be reading cocktail columns. Have Dad replace the alcohol with club soda. It will be the Very Prettiest Soda.

Rhubarb Syrup

Combine equal amounts of frozen diced rhubarb and white sugar in a saucepan. You will be afraid you have made a major miscalculation — it will look like a lumpy pile of sugar. Be stout of heart.

Cook over medium heat. As the rhubarb thaws and cooks, the sugar will draw out a surprising amount of liquid. Bring the mixture to a boil and let it cook for 30 seconds or so.

Remove from the heat, and let it steep for half an hour or so. Strain off the syrup into a bottle for use. Do not discard the rhubarb; it is the base of a superb compote. Squeeze a little fresh lemon juice into it and you will have a fantastic topping for toast or ice cream.

Featured photo. Rhubarb Margarita. Photo by John Fladd.

An ode to Land Shark

Keep it simple on vacation

It had been a long day. My wife and I, together with our three children, packed our bags, got ourselves to the airport, made it through security unscathed, successfully boarded a plane, flew to points south without delay, procured our bags at the baggage claim, secured a rental car and drove to our final destination while my kids screamed in unison about the severe hunger from which they were suffering.

At some point during that rather lengthy sentence, you have to have been thinking, “This guy needed a beer.” And I did, very much.

I don’t know about you, but sometimes in moments like those when you’ve just had yourself a day, you really don’t want a brew that’s especially unique or that requires your consideration. You need something predictable, something you can count on, and definitely something you don’t need to think about.

I didn’t need a quadruple dry-hopped IPA or a stout that’s been aged in brandy barrels and finished with vanilla beans and cinnamon.

I know I overuse it but I just needed a beer that tasted like a beer. I sprinted to the closest convenience store and was actually pleased to see the establishment had very little to choose from. As I was in vacationland, I paid what can only be described as a premium price for a six-pack of Landshark Island Style Lager, which is apparently brewed by Margaritaville Brewing Co. in St. Louis, Missouri, and I never looked back.

The beer is simple yet so pleasing. It’s light, refreshing, easy to drink and just enjoyable. No one could drink this beer and say, “That tastes bad.” Some would, I know, but they’d be lying.

As beer drinkers today, we have an incredible array of options to choose from. Brewers are doing some amazing things and perhaps above all else, as far as I can tell, we’re all within a short drive of fresh, on-tap beer right from the brewery. Think back 10 or 15 years and it’s hard to fully appreciate how the craft beer scene has evolved and grown since then. The variety and the quality is off the charts today and that’s a great thing for beer drinkers everywhere.

But sometimes all you need is something pleasing and simple. I think vacation, and the first couple days of vacation in particular, is often one of those times. You’re visiting new places, experiencing new things, getting yourself settled, and yeah, you’re probably a little stressed from the travel.

For me, beer is one thing I really don’t need to spend a whole lot of time considering when I arrive in a new place. So keep it simple, stupid.

Sure, after you’re settled, by all means, try some new things and explore some local breweries. I’m never going to tell you not to do that, but Day 1, grab a Landshark and relax.

I’m not suggesting you have to stick to mass-produced brews like Landshark, but I do think it makes sense to lean toward brews that offer pleasing simplicity, like Pilsners in particular. Most local craft brewers wherever you are will have something simple, light, refreshing that you can embrace without thinking.

For example, Liar’s Bench Brewing Co. in Portsmouth was pouring a John Grady Kolsch and a No Dice Pilsner as of last week, while Kettlehead Brewing Co. in Tilton was pouring Nuevo Fresco, a Mexican-style lager. You’ll have easy-drinking options wherever you go.

All of this said, you should probably also think about ordering a margarita if I’m being completely honest.

What’s in My Fridge
Green State Lager by Zero Gravity Brewing Co. (Burlington, Vt.)
Speaking of beers that would work on vacation, this would be perfect. Light, crisp, flavorful and refreshing, this brew is delightfully easy to drink. I had a couple of these after a long afternoon of dethatching my lawn and let’s just say it was the right choice. Grab a chilled glass for this one. Cheers.

Featured photo. Go ahead and have a Landshark Island Style Lager. Courtesy photo.

From the valley floor

A look at two reds from Napa Valley

This week’s wines are two exceptional reds, created from grapes grown in neighboring towns almost within sight of each other, in the Napa Valley Floor American Viticulture Area (AVA).

Our first wine comes from the Bespoke Collection Portfolio Wines based in Napa Valley, California. Wikipedia describes Bespoke as a “wine producer and lifestyle brand” whose wine labels are Blackbird Vineyards and Recuerdo Wines. Bespoke means custom-made or commissioned and in times past the word was used to describe hand-tailoring, especially in custom-made apparel. Now, it captures the sense that we want things to be made special for us and the label lends a certain cachet to the product.

The 2016 Blackbird Vineyards Arise Proprietary Red Wine (originally priced at $54.99, and reduced to $32.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) is a blend that emulates the merlot-based wine blends of the Right Bank of the Dordogne River, Bordeaux. The wine is a blend of 55 percent merlot, 25 percent cabernet franc, 17 percent cabernet sauvignon and 3 percent petit verdot. Made from merlot grapes grown on a 10-acre estate in Oakville, on the Napa Valley floor, and enhanced by the other varietals, gathered from 20-plus lots from the Napa Valley Mountain tops, hillsides and bench lands, this limited production of only 236 barrels of equal parts of new and seasoned French oak has an abundance of rich fruit. The color is a deep garnet purple, the nose is rich black cherries and black raspberries, and plums with slight herbal notes. The nose carries through to a full palate and a long, long finish. Robert Parker awarded this bold wine with 92 points.

This is a California red blend, bolder, and thus emulating the Bordeaux blend. The vineyards profit from generations of expert vineyard management and precision agriculture, limiting grape yields for increased quality. Sustainable farming is employed, and indigenous yeasts start the fermentation process. The winemaking team selects two or more parcels of wine after sample trials blended to produce a consistently finished wine that highlights each unique varietal component. This wine becomes a “customized wine,” a “bespoke wine,” according to the winemaker’s website.

The Oakville-Rutherford area is renowned for its cabernet sauvignon and merlot single-varietal wines and blends.

Our next wine comes from Rutherford, also located on the Napa Valley floor, and immediately north of Oakville. The 2011 Sullivan Rutherford Estate Napa Valley Merlot (originally priced at $65 and reduced to $29.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets) consists of 100 percent merlot that also benefits from the gravelly-sandy loam and hot, dry summers of this stretch of wine country. The color is a deep purple that has just begun to go amber as it is 20 years old. To the nose and tongue, the fruit is heavy with plum and blackberry, along with some cocoa. The tannins have receded, owing in part to its age. This is an exquisite wine that is a true reflection of how beautiful a merlot can be, given proper attention to the grapes, the blending, and aging.

Sullivan Winery was established in 1972 when James O’Neil Sullivan, encouraged by his friend the legendary winemaker André Tchelistcheff, planted 22 acres to cabernet sauvignon and merlot. He built his home and winery on the estate and produced and sold wine until his death in 2005, leaving the home and winery to his children. In 2018 entrepreneur Juan Pablo Torres-Padilla saw the potential of Sullivan Rutherford Estate and purchased the property. This wine was produced before the property was sold, and the future of the estate remains bright as Torres-Padilla has assembled a world-class winery team that will continue to make history.

Featured photo. Courtesy.

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