Category: Drink

A look at some wines from Provence

It’s summer and the beginning of sunflower season in New Hampshire! Sunflowers evoke thoughts of Vincent Van Gogh and his painting of the bright, robust flower. Van Gogh painted sunflowers 11 times, with seven of those paintings executed while he was in Arles, in Provence. Van Gogh found the area to his liking, with its sunshine and bright colors. He created some of his greatest work in the short 14 months he was in Arles.

Marseille provided Julia Child with experiences that ran counter to those of her residency in Paris. Julia and Paul Child’s Parisian friends thought Marseille “a rough, crude, southern” place. “But it struck me as a rich broth of vigorous, emotional, uninhibited Life — a veritable ‘bouillabaisse of a city,’” Paul said, according to Julia Child’s My Life in France.

The cuisine of Provence is decidedly different from Parisian cuisine; it’s founded on olive oil and garlic and an abundance of fish and fresh vegetables. It borrows from its Italian neighbors but remains decidedly different from them.

Provence is rich, if not as sophisticated as Paris. It covers a wide swath of territory from the Alps and Italy to its north and east to the Pyrenees and Spain on its west. It was the first region conquered by the Romans beyond the Alps. For a time, it was home to Popes at Avignon. Its coastline with its blue water is called the Cote d’Azur, and its film festival at Cannes is world-famous. With its warm climate and the fragrance of lavender and citrus, it is no wonder the perpetual season of summer of 300 days of sunshine along the coast lures many to visit, and some to stay.

With these notable differences in climate and cuisine from the rest of France, it is expected that the wines of this region would also differ greatly from those of parts north. Provence is known for the production of rosé wine. Rosés are produced throughout France, but the rosés of Provence are unique in their character and structure.

Our first wine, a 2019 Château D’Esclans Whispering Angel Côte De Provence Rosé (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $22.99), is a blend of grenache, cinsault and rolle (vermentino), an Italian white grape identified by its French moniker, rolle. The grenache and cinsault impart their spice-fruit to the wine, while the rolle adds floral and citric notes to the blend. The color is an almost clear very pale peachy pink. To the nose, there are slight floral, lily-like notes, along with some citric. To the tongue the same is carried through with a very slight orange peel coming across the tongue. This is a light wine of 13.5 percent alcohol, created by Sacha Lichine. His 2006 acquisition of Château D’Esclans, located northeast of San Tropez, has resulted in building a world-class brand and providing a strong contribution to the popular growth of rosé wine. Sacha is the son of the renowned Alexis Lichine, who was instrumental in the rebuilding of the wine industry destroyed by World War II, as well as the author of The Wines of France, published in 1952. This wine has a pedigree all but surpassed by the expertise of the generations who created it. It can be sipped on a warm, sunny afternoon, or paired with a light supper of a green salad, dressed with cheese and fruit. Doesn’t that sound like what Provence should be?

Our second wine is a classic, a 2017 Château Beauchêne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Grand Réserve (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets at $37.99). It is a blend of 80 percent grenache, 10 percent syrah and 10 percent mourvèdre. The color is deep ruby red, the nose is of raspberries and spice, tampered with the sweetness of vanilla. To the tongue it is rich in flavor while remaining dry and slightly leathery from the tannins. There is a good dose of red fruit: cherries and plum, with a slight earthiness that makes this an ideal accompaniment to grilled meat, especially lamb. Château Beauchêne is owned by Michel Bernard, whose family has lived in Orange, just North of Avignon, since the 17th century. Today Chateau Beauchêne has become the hub for the vinification and maturation of all the cuvees from the different vineyards owned by the family. Three appellations are represented over their 175 acres: Châteauneuf du Pape, Côtes du Rhône Villages, and Côtes du Rhône.

These are two exceptional wines worth considering for your pretend visit to Provence. Enjoy them on the patio with your favorite Provence fare!

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

I deeply distrust economics.

Yes, I acknowledge that economics provides some convenient answers, but I don’t really trust it. It’s like the character in a movie — always shot with shadowy lighting — who supplies the hero with important information. Everything seems on the up-and-up, but something about the whole exchange makes you realize that she really isn’t on the hero’s side. When things fall apart badly in the third act, you nod your head and tell your eye-rolling date, “Yup, thought so.”

Economics pretends to explain a great deal about human nature, but once you make peace with the concept that money is imaginary and economics is arbitrary, everything sort of falls apart.

“Why is such-and-such worth so much money?”

Because that’s what people agree it’s worth.

“Janitors and farm workers do work way more important than CEOs; why don’t we pay them more?”

Because we don’t want to.

Totally. Arbitrary.

And yet — OK, have you ever made an impulsive purchase or invested a lot of time and money in something that ultimately hasn’t worked out? Hobby supplies or a disappointing vacation or a boyfriend — that you kept around or stuck with long after they ceased to be rewarding?

You or I might call that Poor Judgment, but economists have a name for it (because of course they do): the Sunk Cost Fallacy. The idea is that we don’t want to “waste” all the money and heartache that we’ve put into something unproductive, which makes sense on an emotional level but isn’t actually terribly logical. That money and effort are gone, no matter how you feel about it. Investing more time in Bradley or shelf space on scrapbooking materials doesn’t make much sense if they aren’t going to fulfill you.

Which brings us to triple sec.

It is a sweet, low-octane, vaguely citrusy liquor that 99 percent of us have around because of that time we were going to make a pitcher of margaritas, but we forgot to buy limes, and then we had a series of hard weeks at work and ended up drinking all the tequila one slug at a time, directly from the bottle, in lieu of sending ill-advised texts.

Anyway, an economist would tell us to throw away the triple sec; it’s just taking up shelf space. Marie Kondo would ask you if it was bringing you joy, which — let’s face it — it isn’t at the moment. It’s really hard to envision a scenario where you are lying on a polar bear rug in front of a fire and purring, “Hey baby, let’s drink some triple sec.”

Let’s give Marie — and the polar bear — a break, and stare the economist in the eye and let him know that yes, in point of fact, we are using that triple sec.

The Firecracker

3 1-inch cubes (~45 grams) of fresh watermelon
1½ ounces golden rum
1 ounce triple sec
½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Muddle the watermelon thoroughly in the bottom of a cocktail shaker. It will surprise you how easily it dissolves, like it’s been waiting for an excuse to completely fall apart. Better it than you.
Add ice and the other ingredients. Shake until very cold.
Strain into a coupé glass.

Drink several of these while watching Wall Street Week in Review and shouting “YOU DON’T KNOW ME!” at the TV.

Surprisingly, it is the watermelon that takes a back seat in this cocktail, providing color and a vague fruitiness. The rum is great — rum is everybody’s friend — but is there mostly to bridge the different varieties of sweetness. The stars of the drink are — again, unexpectedly — the triple sec and cayenne. Citrusy sweetness and in-your-face spiciness don’t seem like they would work together, but they do. That’s yet another mystery that economics can’t solve.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Alcohol-free brews are on the rise

My wife visited a friend a few weeks ago and came back from the excursion asking if I’d ever tried non-alcoholic beer. Her friend had been talking up Athletic Brewing Co., which is based in Connecticut and brews an array of alcohol-free beer.

While I had heard of the brand, honestly, I couldn’t say that I had ever had a non-alcoholic beer in my life. I don’t think I’ve ever even tried an O’Doul’s. I suppose I always wondered — if subconsciously — what’s the point? (I know what the point is.)

Not that I’m condoning drinking to get drunk as a responsible choice, but the alcohol in beer is an undeniable, perhaps critical piece of the puzzle. Still, beer does, you know, taste good. Sometimes you want to enjoy a beer but maybe not take in the alcohol, you know, like on a Tuesday. Other times, maybe you’ve already had a few, you’re feeling pretty good and you’d like to keep enjoying the moment — but you know you need to slow down or stop altogether. That’s an instance where an alcohol-free beer can help keep the good times rolling, while keeping you in a responsible frame of mind.

Beyond those instances, obviously others are choosing to live without alcohol for a variety of reasons.

According to a Boston Globe article in May, sales of nonalcoholic beer are up nearly 40 percent in both 2019 and 2020. It’s probably time for me to get with the program.

I was skeptical, but the Athletic story was compelling. The founder, Bill Shufelt, notes on the company website he made the decision to cut out alcohol as a way to live a healthier lifestyle, but non-alcoholic options were limited in the marketplace.

“From the start, we’ve planned to offer more non-alcoholic beer variety than the world has ever known,” Shufelt says on athleticbrewing.com.

I was impressed. It was time to dive in.

I started with Athletic Brewing Co.’s Upside Dawn Golden Ale, which the brewery describes as “refreshing, clean, balanced, light-bodied,” with “aromas subtle with floral and earthy notes,” and yeah, that description fits the bill. It’s also gluten-free for those wondering and just 50 calories.

Do I think it’s missing a little zip with no alcohol? Yes, I do, but that could also be in my head. This is a perfect brew for a screaming hot day. It’s crisp, light and refreshing, and, as you might expect, very, very easy to drink. I could have one of these at the beach or after mowing the lawn — or during since it’s about time I make use of the cup holder on the riding lawnmower.

I should also note that when they say alcohol-free they mean less than 0.5 percent alcohol by volume.

Next up was Athletic’s Free Wave Hazy IPA. Candidly, I don’t know if this is going to satisfy New Hampshire’s hop enthusiasts or “hop heads,” but it does have enticing hop character featuring a citrusy burst in a well-balanced package. Athletic uses Amarillo, Citra and Mosaic hops in this brew. It’s pretty impressive. I’ll have this again for sure.

At the moment, Athletic also brews a stout, a second IPA, a Berliner weisse and a Mexican light lager.

Athletic isn’t the only option for non-alcoholic brews, as major breweries like Brooklyn Brewery, Dogfish Head and Sam Adams are all pumping out non-alcoholic brews, so you undoubtedly have some choices at your local beer store.

What’s in my fridge

Combover IPA by Schilling Beer Co. (Littleton)
It’s the strawberry notes on this one that stand out for me. You’re getting big citrus and pine flavors but the strawberry flavor gives this American IPA a unique twist. This is one of those IPAs that just begs for another sip. Cheers!

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

Comparing two red wines from Tuscany

“Montepulciano of every wine is king,” said the founder of modern experimental biology, Francesco Redi, in 1685, after tasting 500 types of wines. You may remember from high school biology that Redi, the Italian physician, demonstrated that maggots resulted not from spontaneous generation but from eggs laid by flies. Perhaps as important to Redi’s celebrity as a scientist is his judgment of wine. A native of Tuscany, and later residing in Florence, where his most notable scientific achievements were made, Redi had access to the same great wines from Tuscany that we enjoy today.

The sangiovese grape is the varietal that goes into the making of fine classic Chiantis, brunello di Montalcino, and vino nobile di Montepulciano. (Brunello is the alias given to the sangiovese grape.) The sangiovese grape is grown throughout much of Italy, with an estimated 250,000 acres and more planted to it. However, when planted in the southern region of Tuscany, the grape shines to produce a wine that is ready to drink early but becomes full-bodied after cellar aging.

Our first wine, Cantina Del Redi 2015 Toscana Sangiovese Pleos (originally priced at the New Hampshire State Liquor & Wine Outlets at $42.99, reduced to $20.99), is from a winery in the town of Montepulciano, 25 miles southeast of Sienna. As the label states, the wine is made from 100 percent sangiovese grapes. The alcohol content is 14 percent. The Pleos, as described on the website, “is born of the need to bring to your tables all the taste of the purest and most fresh sangiovese of our lands. It wants to be a fun wine, with scents of purple and crispy black cherry. Light but rich in history.” This vintage was awarded a score of 91 points by James Suckling, former Senior Editor and European Bureau Chief of Wine Spectator and regarded as one of the most influential wine critics. The color is intense with a slight burnt sienna red, in the depth of the glass thinning to an orange rim. It holds up to the website’s suggestion of rich dark cherry, both to the nose and to the tongue with some added spice, along with a little chewiness, ending in a long, dry, slightly acidic finish. This wine is not a sipping wine but needs to be paired to food. It can be enjoyed with white- or red-sauced pasta, marinated beef, or Mexican dishes. As the label states, this is a rosso from Montepulciano, and as such has an aging requirement of only six months in oak (as compared to the minimum of two years for our next wine); however, this wine is a great bargain and can be enjoyed for another five years, if cellared.

Our second wine, Lunadoro 2015 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano (originally priced at the New Hampshire State Liquor & Wine Outlets at $44.99, reduced to $18.99), is sometimes called the big brother to the rosso. Also made from sangiovese grapes, it is aged for a minimum of 24 months in oak barrels, not so much to add flavor as for the slow maturation the barrels provide. The barrels are larger than traditional barrique and thus have less surface area in relation to volume, to avoid the vanilla or toast notes found in wine. While not enjoying the same cache as the Brunello noted above, it does carry the moniker of “nobile,” as the wine was once the wine of popes and nobles. After a short decline of quality in the mid-20th century, it has rebounded as the lesser grapes of this region are now slated for the rosso, sampled above, improving the quality and status of the vino nobile.

The color is maroon red, and will take on a subtle brick orange tint as it ages. To the nose it also has cherry notes with some plum, generated by the aging. To the tongue, the cherry stays on with a light tannic leather finish. Because of the aging, and its acidity, it is a wine suitable for cellaring, as it can improve with a decade or even two in your wine cellar. This “big brother of the two” can be sipped, or thoroughly enjoyed with a grilled steak.

It was extremely interesting and informative to taste and compare these two wines, coming from the same hilltop town in the same region noted for its exceptional quality of red wine. It is well worth conducting your own test and comparing the two. Take the test!

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

All flowers supposedly carry symbolic meanings, but some are more emotionally fraught than others.

When I was a child, my mother told me that our elderly neighbor was sick and that we should probably send her some flowers.

Me: “How about lilies? Those are pretty.”

Mom: “Honey, those represent Death.”

Me: “So, no?”

Even if you don’t buy into the whole symbolism of flowers thing, it still permeates our culture. If you showed up for a blind date and they brought you a dozen long-stemmed red roses, you’d start looking for escape routes.

My dad is a carnation man. Growing up, anybody, any occasion, I could pretty much expect him to give a bunch of red and white carnations. They lasted forever, smelled good and didn’t carry too many expectations. Me — I’m an alstroemeria guy. They are pretty, don’t make anybody nervous and are pretty much bullet-proof; stick them in some water, and they’ll outlast the sour cream in your refrigerator. The downside is that they don’t have much of a smell.

Why flowers smell so good is a bit of a mystery. I mean, we know why they smell good — to attract bees, hummingbirds and chorus girls — but nobody has ever been able to figure out how to breed reliably fragrant roses, for instance. The intersection of botany and human chemoreceptors is a complicated and mysterious dance.

Nowhere more so than in a cocktail.

Scientists estimate that somewhere around 80 percent of everything we eat is actually based on what it smells like. If you’re holding a shmancy party and want to serve a cheese board, experts will tell you to take the cheese out of the fridge an hour or so before you actually want to serve it, so that the volatile chemicals in the cheese loosen up and become easier to smell, and thus, taste. This is one of the reasons why so many cocktail recipes call for you to chill a cocktail so thoroughly — as your drink warms up, the flavor will evolve as the esters float up into the back of your palate.

That gets tricky, though, when you are basing your cocktail on floral smells. Rose water or lavender pull you into a dangerous standoff — too little, and your drink won’t taste like much of anything. One drop too much, and you’re dealing with the little decorative soaps in your grandmother’s bathroom.

This drink depends on that. Your first sip or two should be extremely cold. The taste should be crisp and a little gin-forward. As it warms up — and, not for nothin’ that’s why glasses have stems; to slow down the warming process — it will start to smell more perfumy and floral. The taste will match the color; it will start to taste pink.

Rose N. Hibiscus

2 ounces gin (For this, I used Collective Arts Rhubarb and Hibiscus Gin, which a friend who distributes gin in New Hampshire gave me, because it is gently hibiscus-y, but pretty much any gin will work, though it will add its own stamp onto the finished drink.)
1 ounce hibiscus syrup (see below)
1 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
1/3 oz. amaretto
5 drops rose water

Combine all ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake until very cold.
Strain into a martini glass.

Why this strange combination works so well:

The botanical backnotes in the gin play well with the rose water. Roses play well with almonds — in this case, the amaretto. Almonds and lemons go together extremely well. Lemon, in its turn, is a classic pairing with gin. The hibiscus makes it pink. If you like your drink a little crisper, pour small amounts of it into your glass at a time, and drink it extremely cold. If you want a little more of the flowers, pour it all in one go and let the perfume develop as you drink it.

Much like carnations and alstroemeria, this is delicious to share with somebody without making anything weird between you. All it says is, “I like spending time with you.”

Hibiscus Syrup

5 ounces water
5 ounces sugar
1/3 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
1/3 ounce dried hibiscus blossoms

Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring often.
Let the simple syrup boil for 10 to 15 seconds to make certain the sugar is completely dissolved.
Remove from heat. Add lemon juice and hibiscus blossoms.
Cover and steep for 30 minutes.
Strain and bottle. Keep indefinitely in your refrigerator.

A Market in Manchester carries dried hibiscus and they can also be found online. Rose water is available in most supermarkets and can usually be found in the international foods aisle.

Featured photo: Rose N. Hibiscus. Photo by John Fladd.

I want to say that you deserve a vacation, but honestly, I don’t know that you do.

Don’t get me wrong, you might. Maybe you’ve been going crazy putting in extra time and making yourself available at all hours of the day. Then again, maybe you’ve mailed it in over the past year-and-a-half “working from home”? I just don’t know.

The reality is, whether or not I think you deserve a vacation, you’re probably going to take some time off this summer. And whether you deserve it or not, you’re going to need some beer.

I find I end up drinking really random stuff on vacation. I think part of it is this all-consuming pressure that all dads feel to eat and drink everything in the cooler during the vacation. That seems to leave me knocking down some brews I might otherwise stay away from. I’m looking at you, Leinenkugel’s Summer Shandy.

Vacations, whether you’re hitting the beach, the mountains, the lake or somewhere tropical, are all about taking it easy and your beer should mirror that feeling. I gravitate toward lighter styles, like Pilsners, for screaming hot days at the beach and I tend to follow that up with darker, but not too heavy, brews for cool, breezy vacation evenings.

Let’s be honest, you’re on vacation, so you’re probably going to be having several beers, and you don’t want your beer to bog you down. I tend to stay away from big double IPAs — they taste great but sometimes leave me ready for nap time a little too early in the day.

If you can find something local on your vacation that fits the bill, all the better. You don’t want to neglect your family, but I give you permission to explore — it seems like there are great breweries wherever you go now. I discovered Cigar City Brewing in Tampa on a family vacation to Florida years ago, and, while it’s easily accessible nationally now, I now consider that brewery a go-to for vacations and just normal life.

For years Sam Adams Summer Ale was my go-to summer beer: easy, flavorful and light. There was just something about the beer that solidified for me that I was, in fact, on vacation. Find your vacation beer.

Here are a few beers to enjoy wherever your vacation takes you.

Smuttynose Lager by Smuttynose Brewing Co. (Hampton)

It’s just a beer. You don’t need to think about it. This new offering by Smuttynose is light, crisp and refreshing, and — not that I’m recommending this — you could probably drink a million of these in a single weekend away.

Patina Pale by Austin Street Brewery (Portland, Maine)

I had this beer during a Portland brew bus tour several years ago and it blew everyone away. Right at the brewery, I think the freshness just hit us right in the face. This is delightfully hoppy with notes of pine and citrus in a light, easy-drinking package that is perfect for getting your hops fix on vacation.

Golden Hour Sour by Granite Roots Brewing (Troy)

Mango and passion fruit combine to produce a fruity, tropical-tasting sour that pairs perfectly with the beach. If you’re a little wary of sours, this is a great choice as the tartness isn’t overly pronounced.

Maduro Brown Ale by Cigar City Brewing (Tampa, Fla.)

I had to give Cigar City some love — this beer features light flavors of toffee, coffee and chocolate in a very, very smooth package. This is the one I want on a cool evening sitting by a fire on the beach.

What’s in My Fridge

Greylock Imperial New England IPA by Greater Good Imperial Brewing Co. (Worcester, Mass.)
This might be the most dangerous beer I’ve ever had. Named after Massachusetts’ highest peak, this brew comes in at 12 percent ABV but you’d never guess that drinking it. You’ve been warned. This brew is quadruple dry-hopped, producing a smooth finish bursting with huge citrus flavor. Cheers!

Featured photo: Patina Pale Ale by Austin Street Brewery.