Yes Day (PG) | Cherry (R)

Yes Day (PG)

Jennifer Garner stars in Yes Day, a delightful family comedy about wacky hijinks on a day when kids pick the fun.

Or put another way, Jennifer Garner plays a mom in a waking nightmare of a horror story about a lady going through some stuff personally and professionally who is bullied by her family into participating in some internet nonsense to prove she can still loosen up and have fun — you know what would be fun how about someone else do the laundry for a change, dishes don’t wash themselves, don’t want to see Mom erupt in a rage volcano when she steps on a Lego how about you PICK UP THE LEGOS.

It is possible this movie touched a nerve.

When the Torres children — young teen Katie (Jenna Ortega), tween Nando (Julian Lerner) and young Ellie (Everly Carganilla) — complain that their mom, Allison (Garner), always says “no” to everything they want to do, she makes a deal with them. If they approach their kid duties (chores, homework) with more gusto, they will earn a Yes Day, a 24-hour period where the parents won’t say no to any of their plans or desires, within legal, geographical and financial limits. (Their “mom says no” complaints are documented both in a haiku Katie writes for school and a movie Nando makes calling his mom a dictator for, among other things, losing her cool when she steps on Legos.) And even though that sounds exhausting, Allison approaches the day with excitement because it means spending non-nagging time with her family, most significantly with independence-seeking Katie and with work-absorbed husband Carlos (Edgar Ramírez). Allison, a former sky-dive and backpack-the-world type, is also under some stress outside the home as her attempts to reenter the workforce have not been successful.

A lot of cute giant ice cream sundae-eating and paintball-ish game-playing ensues. The actors here have good family chemistry, with Ortega believably walking that teen line between having fun with siblings and parents while still wanting to do mature things with her friends, and the other kids turning in cute but not cloying performances. Ramírez turns in a completely fine “likeable dad” performance, even if his character gets the least to do of the bunch. Perhaps because of movies like Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day and her Capital One ads, I’ve come to think of Garner more as a mom character than as her Alias action hero but here she reminds you can she can pull off physical comedy and action-y moments as well as more sitcom-y moments of humor.

Even with a side plot involving Katie and her plans to go to a music festival with some friend’s cousin and some older-dude friends, the movie is basically focused on wholesome goofiness. Wholesome goofiness and carpet-destroying foam — but I don’t think everybody who watches this is going to spend quite as much time thinking “how are they going to get that out of the car upholstery” and “does homeowners insurance cover that” as I did. But then maybe that’s a sign that I need a Yes Day. (No.) B

Rated PG for some rude and suggestive material, and brief language, according to the MPA on filmratings.com. Directed by Miguel Arteta with a screenplay by Justin Malen (based on the book by Amy Krouse Rosenthal and Tom Lichtenheld), Yes Day is an hour and 26 minutes long and is available on Netflix.

Cherry (R)

Tom Holland plays a young man who falls into addiction in Cherry, a movie directed by Russo brothers Anthony and Joe of Marvel movies fame.

Specifically, they directed the Captain Americas Winter Soldier and Civil War and two Avengers — Infinity War and Endgame.I mention this because it’s hard not to watch this movie as “Anthony and Joe Russo show they can do something not Marvel” or maybe as “Anthony Russo and Joe Russo bring popcorn movie flash to a downbeat story.”

We first see Holland, whose character isn’t called by name in the movie, as he prepares to rob a bank, explaining his actions to us in narration that is weaved through the movie. The bank robbery serves as bookends to his short (in years) life story, starting when he is aimlessly attending college and meets Emily (Ciara Bravo), the girlfriend who quickly becomes his wife, through a stint in the Army and into his post-Army years of PTSD, heroin addiction and crime.

The bare bones of Cherry are a thoroughly depressing story that the movie manages to add humor (dark humor) to and that is warmed up by Holland, who I think does an above average job as a kid who seems a little bit like he’s blown by the wind through his life.

Bravo, whose Emily feels more like Holland’s character’s projection of her than she does like a fully formed person, feels sort of sleepy throughout. Their relationship is one of the cores of this movie but her wispiness prevents us from ever really understanding why she stays with Holland or why the relationship is so important to him.

I wasn’t bothered by the movie’s general storytelling showiness, all strange comic/tragic asides, stylized shots and fourth-wall-breaking narration. Perhaps at a runtime shorter (significantly shorter) than two hours and 22 minutes the style of the movie and the general solid-ness of Holland’s performance would be enough to keep things moving and to make the movie’s points (assuming the elements about the military, the war, careless opioid prescription and the socioeconomics of a gray-looking Cleveland are points the movie’s trying to make and not just, like, story-telling accessories). But you feel this movie’s lengthy runtime and it doesn’t always provide you with a good reason why you are lingering in this or that moment. As a result, a lot of the more stylish elements end up feeling like padding.

Cherry isn’t a bad movie but the result of all this moviemaking style put on a relatively thin story is that you feel like you’re getting about four inches of elaborate frosting on one inch of cake. C+

Rated R for graphic drug abuse, disturbing and violent images, pervasive language and sexual content, according to the MPA on filmratings.com. Directed by Anthony Russo and Joe Russo with a screenplay by Angela Russo-Otstot and Jessica Goldberg (from the novel Cherry by Nico Walker), Cherry is two hours and 22 minutes long and is available on Apple TV+.

Featured photo: Yes Day

Meet Martin Reyes

The winemaker for Peter Paul Wines

Meet Martin Reyes, a Master of Wine and the first American of Mexican descent to achieve that honor. Reyes is a wine maker and chief wine officer for Peter Paul Wines in Napa Valley, California, and an importer for the Pennsylvania market. The recipient of many wine accolades, Reyes said in a recent phone interview that he stumbled into the wine industry. A graduate of Stanford in 2000, he set out to become a recruiter for high-tech companies, up until the bottom fell out of the tech economy immediately thereafter. Without a job, he tended bar and became interested in the business of wine, winemaking and viticulture. He stocked shelves and then landed a job with Fred Beringer at the St. Helena Wine Center (re-named The Bottle Shop last year). In this well-established tasting room, Martin learned how to appreciate extraordinary wines, his favorite of which is Champagne. He credits his accomplishments to the support of the Beringers.

The Institute of Masters of Wine is the home of exceptional expertise in the wine world. Started more than 65 years ago as an exam for the U.K. wine trade, it is now a globally recognized title held by just over 400 individuals worldwide and 50 in the United States. The exam tests the breadth and depth of a candidate’s theoretical knowledge and tasting skills in the art, science, and business of wine. One must prepare a theory paper and in-depth research project. Martin’s MW dissertation, “Crowdsourced Ratings for Wine: Exploring the Rise of the Consumer Critic and Its Impact on Purchasing Behavior in a U.S.A. Environment,” was recently published (read it at reyeswinegroup.com).

Peter Paul Wines is owned by Peter T. Paul, CEO of Headlands Asset Management, and an alumnus and benefactor of the University of New Hampshire. Shortly after forming the winery, Peter Paul brought on Martin to develop a portfolio of wines. Martin set out to source grapes from some of the best vineyards in Napa and Sonoma and is now producing extraordinary wines, the “Live Free or Die” wines being exclusive to the state of New Hampshire. A portion of the sale of these wines also goes back toward supporting local New Hampshire organizations.

Peter Paul “LIVE FREE OR DIE” 2017 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (originally $24.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet and reduced to $21.99) has a beautiful straw color and floral aromas of apple and peach along with some yeast. It is full to the mouth with melon and minerality, along with a touch of citrus. Vanilla is also present in the long finish on the palate, a perfect pairing to shellfish. The grapes of this wine come from the Bacigalupi Vineyard, in the Russian River Valley. The Bacigalupi Vineyard is famous for having produced the fruit that went into the Napa Valley Chardonnay from Château Montelena, which triumphed over acclaimed French wines in the 1973 Paris tasting.

Peter Paul “LIVE FREE OR DIE” 2018 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (also originally $24.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet, and reduced to $21.99) is a pedigree from another outstanding vineyard in Sonoma, Terra de Promissio vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. Terra de Promissio (Land of Promise) grapes go into some of the finest wineries’ blends, including Castello di Amerosa, Hanzell Vineyards, Kosta Browne and Williams-Selyem. Planted in 2002 by Charles and Diana Karren, a converted 53-acre ranch with rolling hills and a southwestern exposure, it is one of the most sought-after producers of pinot noir grapes. This wine has a beautiful red garnet color. It has a light bouquet of cherry, along with some earthiness, a departure from many pinot noirs and more akin to Burgundian pinot noirs. The nose carries through to the palate with a bright and lush texture and acidity to a long finish.

Peter Paul 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (available at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlet at $39.99) is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec grapes, sourced throughout Napa Valley from Rutherford, to Mount Veeder, to St. Helena. This is a low production line of only 400 to 500 cases. The nose is of cassis, plum and vanilla. On the tongue, the wine is full of black cherry fruit and light, velvety tannins. The finish is long, which makes this a perfect pairing for a fine, rare rib-eye steak. This wine was awarded “One of the U.S.’s Best Napa Cabernets” by Wine & Spirits magazine.

Working alongside Trevor Smith, a former cellar master at Screaming Eagle who offers his technical expertise, Martin has created wines that are not only great tasting but appealing because of their price points, one of the hallmarks of Martin’s goals to popularize wine.

Featured photo: Peter Paul wines. Courtesy photo. Martin Reyes. Courtesy photo.

Mister Handsome

I pulled into the parking lot to get my first Covid vaccine.

It was a bit science-fictiony/disaster-movie-y. Everything was being administered by the National Guard, all of whom were masked and wearing a disconcerting amount of mysterious equipment. As I pulled up to the second place in line, a guardsman had me roll down my window and told me, “OK, move up and talk to the Sergeant.” He emphasized the word sergeant, just the slightest bit, to let me know that this was somebody important, and that I’d better be on my best behavior. I was grateful for the warning.

I pulled up one slot, to where the Sergeant was waiting for me with a computer tablet.

He asked to see my identification, then pulled up my file.

Then he paused.

And gave me a Look. A very serious look. He was masked, of course, so I could only see his eyes, but even so, I knew I was under serious appraisal.

The issue, as it turned out, was my paperwork. Clearly, I had been in a goofy mood the previous night when I had filled out my medical forms. Under the category of Ongoing Conditions, I had written, “Chronic Handsomeness.”

After another moment, the Sergeant said, “I share your condition. I know the burden it can put on a man. Let’s get you out of here…,” and waved me into Parking Spot No. 1. It was a tiny moment of bonding.

I got my shot, and the sun came out, and birds and woodland creatures did a little musical number, etc.

But this got me thinking about the quality of handsomeness.

As it turns out, there is a drink dedicated to handsomeness — the Captain Handsome. I would not call it a classic cocktail, but it is not weirdly niche, and obscure, either. It is a fairly complex drink, with a surprising number of ingredients, but pretty simple to actually make.

So I made one. And it was good — one of those drinks that you aren’t really sure about with the first sip, but becoming more and more agreeable with each subsequent taste. It is made with crème de violette, which gives it a really lovely lavender color. It is crisp and floral, and washing the glass with absinthe gives it a strangely alluring hint of — something.

Here’s the issue, though. The Captain Handsome has five or six ingredients (depending on whether you count seltzer as an ingredient) and at least one of them — the crème de violette — requires a trip out of state to get. Absinthe is a bit pricey, and I’m reluctant to ask someone to lay out 30 bucks for the 1/8 of an ounce or so that it would take to rinse a martini glass with it.

So, here’s my thinking: Do any of us need the superhero level of handsomeness implied by the name Captain Handsome? I, for one, would be happy with a Mister Handsome level of alcohol-induced handsomeness.

Mister Handsome

A tiny amount of bourbon – Given the tiny amount you’ll be using, and the number of competing flavors in this cocktail, probably not your best bourbon.

2 ounces gin – I’ve been enjoying Death’s Door, lately.

½ ounce blue curacao – This will not give you the same handsome color as in the original drink, but rest assured it will be handsome.

½ ounce Campari – this will turn the color of the drink from a whimsical, tropical blue to a steely violet. It will also add a slight bitterness to balance out the sweetness from the curacao.

½ ounce fresh squeezed lime juice

5 drops of rose water – Rose water can be tricky stuff. You’re always risking adding one drop too many and making a drink taste grandmothery. In this case, though, be of stout heart. You will need the floweriness to replicate the floral note of the missing crème de violette.

1 to 2 ounces plain seltzer – I like Topo Chico for its intense bubbliness.

(1) Rinse a chilled cocktail glass with bourbon. Swirl it around to coat the inside of the glass, then pour off the excess.

(2) Add the gin, blue curacao, Campari, lime juice and rose water to a shaker, half-filled with ice. Shake thoroughly. If you shatter some of the ice, so much the better. Tiny ice shards really add to the drinkability of this cocktail.

(3) Strain into the prepared cocktail glass, then top with seltzer. (Don’t skip this step. The bubbles add a bracing mouth-feel to this drink, which raises it from a Mister Attractive-Enough-I-Suppose to a full-on Mister Handsome.)

The original Captain Handsome is garnished with a brandied cherry. This version doesn’t need it. Its steely grey color would contrast too much with the whimsy of the cherry.

This reimagined cocktail retains a lot of the mystery and allure of the original. It still has that “do-I-like-it?” quality at the first sip, then a growing amount of pleasure and affection as you work your way down the glass. (Or it works its way down you. Either/or.) The gin gives it an astringent air of authority. There is the barest hint of bourbon in the background, making you feel more like a grown-up as you drink it. There is the slightest kiss of sweetness from the blue curacao, but not enough to even hint that this is some sort of hipster, gimmick drink.

This drink lends itself well to small gatherings — even intimate ones. A sip or two will give you the confidence to make direct eye contact with a guest as you serve them one of their own. “Yes,” your gaze will say, “I know. But I am strong enough to be responsible with this amount of handsomeness. You are in good hands.”

Featured photo: Mister Handsome cocktail. Photo by John Fladd.

Jeff LeDuc

Jeff LeDuc of Epping is the owner and founder of the Dawg Shed (find them on Facebook @dawgshed), a food stand he runs with family friend Shannon Knox that offers hot dogs, cold subs, salads, soups and other items made fresh daily, including chili dogs as specials on Fridays and Saturdays. LeDuc, who also owns a shed building and delivery company called JD’s Sheds and More, had been running a hot dog cart on the side at local venues for about three years. He started the Dawg Shed last December — you can find it next to Floral Expressions Boutique (252 Calef Hwy., Epping) every Tuesday through Saturday, beginning at 11 a.m. and usually until the mid- to late afternoon, depending on the day.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Definitely a knife. That’s the most important.

What would you have for your last meal?

Something Italian, probably chicken Parm.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I have three that I visit very frequently that are all right here in town. Telly’s across the street, the Holy Grail Pub and then also DeBernardo’s.

What celebrity would you like to see visiting your food stand?

I’d love to see anyone from the [Boston] Bruins team from the ‘70s or ‘80s, [like] Bobby Orr, Terry O’Reilly or Brad Park. All of them are very supportive of the local hockey teams and are just great professional athletes.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

A sauerkraut dog with spiced mustard.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think the trend is what we’re offering, which is fresh foods like homemade soups and sandwiches made right in front of you. … I think more people now feel the need to support local businesses in their community.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love doing omelets in the morning, usually bacon and cheese. In the evening, there’s nothing better than a nice T-bone steak cooked on the grill.

Cranberry walnut chicken salad
From the kitchen of Jeff LeDuc and Shannon Knox of the Dawg Shed in Epping (combine the following ingredients)
Oven roasted chicken breast (quantity depending on preference)
1 cup dried cranberries
1 cup chopped walnuts
2 to 3 cups mayonnaise
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon onion powder
2 teaspoons mixed Italian herbs

Featured photo: Jeff LeDuc of the Dawg Shed in Epping

Neighborhood pies

Elm House of Pizza opens in Manchester

Back in the 1970s, Elm House of Pizza was a downtown favorite among Manchester locals for its grinders, spaghetti dinners and dozens of pizza pie varieties. Decades later, a new Queen City eatery is channeling that nostalgic neighborhood vibe while offering its own spin on a traditional house of pizza.

The latest iteration of Elm House of Pizza, which opened March 15 in the old Theo’s restaurant, is the project of business partners Tim Baines of Mint Bistro and Bob Scribner of The Wild Rover Pub. Last summer the pair took over the 102 Elm St. space, which had most recently been Frida’s Tacos & Tequila but was Theo’s for more than 30 years before that.

Baines said the name was chosen as an homage to its 1970s predecessor — he recently shared a screenshot of its grand opening flyer from December 1973 on social media. The original Elm House of Pizza was a mile up the road at 866 Elm St. While there aren’t the same ingredients or recipes as from years past, what you will find in the new spot is what he calls a modern twist on a traditional house of pizza, featuring everything from house pies and appetizers to fresh seafood dinners, pastas, burgers and more.

“We were taking a look at what we thought might be missing in Manchester, and we really felt that the south end neighborhoods are underserved in the pizza category,” Baines said. “This is kind of an iconic space. Theo’s had a great run here … and we just thought it was a great location away from the hustle and bustle of Elm Street.”

Pizzas come in two sizes, with vegan cheese and gluten-free cauliflower crusts available as substitutes and individual slices likely offered every Monday through Friday until 5 p.m.

There’s a build-your-own option with dozens of toppings to choose from, in addition to several specialty pizzas — the House Pie, for instance, features tomato sauce, Italian sausage, ricotta cheese, a hot honey drizzle, and “cup-and-char” pepperoni, or smaller pepperoni pieces that form into cup shapes to trap the pizza’s natural juices.

“We’re definitely excited about how the House Pie is received. The flavors really come together in a magical way,” Baines said. “The cup-and-char pepperoni is different. … I think you’re starting to see it become more popular.”

But there’s also more to look forward to than the pizzas. Fresh haddock and scallops are served daily, as well as house entrees like spaghetti and meatballs, chicken or eggplant Parmesan, chicken and broccoli alfredo, marinated steak tip dinners or shrimp scampi. Gluten-free zucchini noodles can also be swapped for cavatappi on any of the pasta options.

Sandwiches are served with either hand cut fries, coleslaw, potato salad or a vegetable of the day, and include steak and cheese subs, meatball subs, lobster rolls and several types of burgers. The appetizers menu has unique options of its own, like house pepper jack cheese sticks with marinara sauce, loaded potato skins, bacon-wrapped scallops and garlic Parmesan cheese curds.

Most of the restaurant’s renovations took place in its bar area, which has been expanded. The drinks menu features an assortment of domestic and local craft beers, in addition to a few red and white wines and a selection of house mixed cocktails.

“Even though we’re not a sports bar, I certainly envision it being a great place to come watch a game, [or] maybe grabbing pizzas for the family and having a couple of beers while you’re waiting,” Baines said. “Most pizza places wouldn’t focus as much on the bar, but we want that to be a significant part of what we’re doing here.”

An outdoor patio at the rear of the restaurant seats about 40 people, and Baines said there are talks to extend the outdoor dining capacity in the parking lot during the summer. Online ordering and delivery are also expected in the coming weeks following the eatery’s initial opening week.

Elm House of Pizza
Where
: 102 Elm St., Manchester
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
More info: Visit elmhop.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram, or call 232-5522 to place a takeout order

Feautred photo: Meat Lover’s Pizza. Courtesy of Elm House of Pizza.

Flavors of India

Destination India opens in Derry

Mango Lassi. Photo courtesy of Destination India.

A new eatery has brought Indian cuisine to downtown Derry, offering authentic meals from several regions across the country. Aptly named Destination India, the restaurant and bar held a grand opening ribbon cutting ceremony on March 12 following a brief soft launch period.

Co-owner and chef Navanath “Navi” Avhad comes from Mumbai and has cooked Indian cuisine all over the United States. Connections with restaurant owners and friends eventually led Avhad to New England — he worked at Tulsi Indian Restaurant in Kittery, Maine, for a time before opening Destination India with three business partners: Ram Bodke, Megha Bodke and Pranav Ambekar.

Avhad, who currently lives in Manchester, said the four ultimately chose Derry both because of its large population and the lack of an authentic Indian restaurant downtown.

“I always drive on this road, and I see all the cuisines, like Italian, Mexican [and] Chinese,” he said, “but something was missing, and that was Indian.”

Avhad said the menu has some familiar dishes like vegetable samosas filled with potatoes, green peas and spices; chicken tikka masala, which is boneless chicken breast marinated in yogurt and spices and simmered in a tomato and cashew sauce; and multiple curries, with proteins like lamb, goat, chicken thighs or coconut shrimp. You’ll also find some lesser-known items, like chicken vindaloo, or chicken marinated in a vinegar mixture, cooked with potatoes in a hot gravy. According to Avhad, vindaloo is an especially popular dish in Goa, a state on the southwestern coast of India that was once colonized by Portugal. Many Goan dishes were in fact influenced by Portuguese cuisine due to the country’s centuries-long rule of the state — another option on the menu with Goan origins, he said, is shrimp balchao, or sauteed shrimp in a tangy, spicy sauce. It can be ordered as an appetizer or a main course.

Chicken Chettinad, or chicken cubed and cooked in fresh ground pepper, curry leaves, cilantro and spices, is also a traditional Southern Indian dish you’ll see on the menu. Other items are representative of northern Indian states, like paneer butter masala, or sauteed cheese that’s simmered in a tomato cashew cream curry sauce.

“We have the option of mild, medium and hot … for the spice level for our dishes, and people like that,” Avhad said. “We also have many vegetarian options for people.” One such dish is navratan korma, which literally translates to “nine-gem curry.” The different fruits, vegetables and nuts are the “gems” that make up the curry.

Some available items are cooked in a tandoor, a cylindrical clay oven that can reach temperatures of up to 900 degrees. In addition to tandoori chicken, shrimp and salmon, fresh flatbread called naan is baked fresh to order — you can get plain, butter or garlic naan, or a peshawari naan, which is filled with assorted nuts, coconut and dried fruits.

For desserts, Avhad makes his own kulfi, or Indian ice cream, in flavors like mango, pistachio and malai, a type of fresh cream. There’s also rice kheer (Indian rice pudding), gulab jamun (deep fried dumplings cooked in a cardamom syrup) and mango lassi, a smoothie-like blended drink of yogurt, water and spices.

Even though Destination India was open for takeout and delivery only during its initial soft launch, Avhad said his staff were busier than they ever could have expected — they even had to stop taking orders that first Saturday night to get caught up. The eatery is now open for full in-house dining, in addition to takeout and delivery through DoorDash, and is looking into adding more tables outside when steadier warm weather returns.

Garlic, butter and onion naan. Photo courtesy of Destination India.

Destination India Restaurant & Bar
Where
: 14A E. Broadway, Derry
Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
More info: Visit destinationindianh.com, find them on Facebook @destinationindianh or call 552-3469

Feautred photo: Navratan Korma (nine-gem curry.) Photo courtesy of Destination India.

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