Home-cooked comfort

Second Brook Bar & Grill now open in Hooksett

For Jeanne Foote and her husband, Tom, who grew up in the North End of Manchester, opening their newest restaurant just over the town line in Hooksett is a homecoming of sorts. In fact, Second Brook Bar & Grill, a casual comfort and homestyle eatery that opened last month, is named after the nearby brook by the railroad tracks that they frequented as high school students.
“Second Brook, for me, was about making lifelong friends and good memories, and that’s what we’re trying to do here,” Foote said. “New friends are coming in, old friends are coming in. … It’s like a class reunion here every other day of the week. It’s so much fun.”
Foote spent more than a decade working at The Puritan Backroom and at Billy’s Sports Bar before going to Durham to open Bella’s Casual Dining in 2012. On Christmas Day last year, just months after Bella’s closed its doors, she said, she was en route picking up Chinese food to her son’s house when she noticed the vacant building space that would become Second Brook Bar & Grill, which was most recently occupied by DC’s Tavern.
“We had a concept in mind,” she said, “but then Covid hit, so we had time to think about what we really wanted, what our name was going to be, and who we were going after.”
Jackson Poulson, who worked at The Country Tavern in Nashua before its permanent closure in May, was brought on as head chef to help construct the eatery’s menu. Many of Second Brook’s tables and booths also come from The Country Tavern, Foote said.
“[Poulson] had some really good recipes, and I had some really good recipes from Bella’s, so we just kind of collaborated,” she said.
The boneless chicken tenders, for instance, are hand-tossed and deep fried, and available as plain, barbecue, Buffalo or garlic Parmesan flavors. The appetizer menu also contains popular staples like shepherd rolls with an au jus demi-glaze, pan seared scallops with a bacon lemon butter sauce, eggplant Napoleon with pesto alfredo and deep fried Buffalo chicken balls.
All soups and chowders are made in house, like the Cajun shrimp chowder and the French onion soup. The menu also features fresh pasta dishes and plated entrees, like Bella’s chicken pot pie with carrots, peas and corn; the baked stuffed Jumbo shrimp with homemade stuffing; and the pulled pork casserole with onion straws, mashed potatoes and cheddar cheese.
The corned beef Reuben is one of the leading sellers on the menu’s sandwich section, according to Foote, but other options include a crispy coconut chicken wrap with house honey mustard Craisins, almonds and goat cheese; a barbecue pulled pork burger with cheddar cheese, coleslaw and pickle chips; a beer battered fish fillet served on a grilled brioche roll with lettuce; and a vegetarian wrap with roasted zucchini, squash, mushrooms and eggplant.
Second Brook’s bar menu has more than a dozen domestic and local craft beers, as well as some white and red wines and all types of specialty cocktails.
Between two and three lunch and dinner specials are also usually available per day, Foote said. Featured desserts are a brownie sundae and a New York-style cheesecake with strawberries, although you might see some specials there too.

Second Brook Bar & Grill
Where
: 1100 Hooksett Road, Unit 111, Hooksett
Hours: Monday, and Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed on Tuesdays.
More info: Visit secondbrook.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @secondbrookbarandgrill or call 935-7456

Featured photo: Seafood sampler with shrimp, haddock and scallops baked in white wine and butter. Courtesy photo.

Mobile eats on the field

NH Fisher Cats present food truck and fireworks festival

Fisher Cats food truck and fireworks festival. Courtesy photo.

The New Hampshire Fisher Cats haven’t played a single game this year, but their front office has made good use of Northeast Delta Dental Stadium throughout the summer, holding socially distanced high school and college graduation ceremonies, live rock concerts, cornhole tournaments and a fashion show. On Saturday, Oct. 10, they’ll add a food truck festival to the mix, featuring eats from several local and regional trucks, followed by an Atlas Fireworks show in the evening.

“It’s from 1 to 6 p.m., and then the fireworks are at 6:30 p.m., [but] you don’t have to stay the whole time,” Stephanie Fournier, director of hospitality and special events for the Fisher Cats, said. “We’re actually going to give people wristbands when they come in, so if you want to come for lunch, leave and then come back for the fireworks, you can.”

The festival will feature a combination of returning trucks from previous years, like Empanada Dada, a Lowell, Mass.-based Cuban food truck serving fresh beef and chicken empanadas, and a few newcomers to the food truck scene. The Gyro Spot on Elm Street in Manchester, for example, announced the launch of a food truck offering its fresh gyros back in July. They’ll be there, as will Ben & Jerry’s, which also recently introduced a truck.

Other participating vendors include Dudley’s Concessions, offering chicken tenders, fries, burgers and similar comfort options, and the Jackson Effie Coffee Cabin, a Massachusetts-based purveyor of small-batch coffees and espresso drinks.

Usually a two-day event, the team’s third annual festival had originally been scheduled for August. Fournier said seating will be available in some of the stadium seats, as well as at designated socially distanced sitting areas in the outfield using chalked 10×10 squares. People are encouraged to bring blankets and pillows, but no outside chairs are allowed. Masks and face-coverings are also required at the entry gate.

Third annual Fisher Cats Food Truck and Fireworks festival
When
: Saturday, Oct. 10; food trucks will be serving on the field from 1 to 6 p.m.; fireworks show begins at 6:30 p.m.
Where: Northeast Delta Dental Stadium, 1 Line Drive, Manchester
Cost: $10 general admission (free for children ages 3 and under); food and drinks are priced per item
Visit: nhfishercats.com

Participating food trucks
Ben & Jerry’s
(benjerry.com)
Dudley’s Concessions (find them on Facebook)
Dudley’s Fried Dough (find them on Facebook)
Empanada Dada (empanadadada.com)
The Gyro Spot (thegyrospot.com)
Jackson Effie Coffee Cabin (coffeecabinma.com)

Featured photo: Fisher Cats food truck and fireworks festival. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/08

News from the local food scene

Virtual sweetness: The Toadstool Bookshops of Nashua, Peterborough and Keene will hold a virtual author event via Zoom on Saturday, Oct. 10, at 11 a.m. featuring Erin Renouf Mylroie, who will present her new cookbook 101 Greatest Cookies on the Planet. She’ll also conduct a baking demonstration using one of the recipes from her book, which features ideas for all types of cookies for every season. The recipe she’ll go over will be on how to make maple shortbread cookies. Visit toadbooks.com/event/101greatestcookies or visit one of the three shops to purchase the book.

Food trucks at Canobie: Canobie Lake Park (85 N. Policy St., Salem) will host its final food truck festival weekend of the season on Saturday, Oct. 10, and Sunday, Oct. 11, when several local food trucks will be set up inside the park from noon to 3 p.m. each day. Both days will feature Massachusetts-based food trucks Trolley Dogs, North East of the Border and The Chubby Chickpea. On Saturday, Prime Time Grilled Cheese, a Manchester food truck specializing in artisan grilled cheeses, will be there, while the Walking Gourmet food truck, based in Windham, will be at the park on Sunday. Park admission with advance registration is required ($39 for adults, $29 for seniors and attendees under 48 inches tall, and free for kids ages 3 and under). Visit canobie.com.

Lamb shanks to go: There’s still time to order your lamb shank dinner to go at St. George Greek Orthodox Cathedral (650 Hanover St., Manchester). Dinners of lamb shanks, rice and green beans will be available for pickup at the church on Saturday, Oct. 17, from 4 to 7 p.m. The cost is $20 per person and orders must be placed by Oct. 11 by calling the church office. The church had canceled its annual Glendi food festival earlier this year, usually held in mid-September, but has been holding smaller drive-thru events featuring Greek eats to promote social distancing. Visit stgeorgeglendi.com or call 622-9113.

Halloween at the market: Costumes are encouraged during the Bedford Farmers Market’s final day of the season, a Halloween themed market, on Tuesday, Oct. 13, from 3 to 6 p.m. in the parking lot of the former Harvest Market (209 Route 101, Bedford). The market will feature a variety of specialty treat tables throughout the afternoon. Visit bedfordfarmersmarketnh.org.

Drinks with John Fladd: The Paisley Jane

The Paisley Jane

At the risk of oversharing, it seems like when it comes to decision-making I have two settings: overthinking or not thinking at all.

Throughout my life, a series of exasperated parents, bemused drill sergeants and my long-suffering wife have asked me, in varying degrees of anxiety, “What were you THINKING!?” To which, I only have one answer: “Uhhh… what?”

And then, there’s the other extreme.

Sometimes, without warning, I will fall down a rabbit hole of obsession, hyper-focusing on some objectively trivial matter. Last week, after watching a movie where one of the characters had to go on the run and retrieved a “go bag,” I spent hours thinking about what would go in my go bag, how much of what currency should go in it, and how I could inconspicuously buy everything I needed with untraceable cash. Never mind that I would probably never need to flee anywhere, or that I’m too fundamentally lazy and timid to do it if I had to; the fact remains that I spent hours working out an elaborate escape plan. (The secret is to include a Flowbee in the bag, so I can shave my head in a convenience store bathroom, then grow a beard, to blend in with all the other aging hipsters.)

And then, there’s the orgeat. Orgeat (supposedly pronounced “Oor-Jot”) is an almond syrup that is used a lot in tropical drinks to add depth and a sweet fruitiness to the background flavor. I’m mostly alone in this, but I think it tastes a bit like maraschino cherries. People with a more sophisticated palate than mine get very particular about their orgeat, saying that the cheap stuff tastes “artificial.” (I kind of like “artificial”, but they do have a point. The more chi-chi stuff definitely tastes more sophisticated.)

Some people will even go so far as to make their own orgeat.

[There… Right there… Did you hear it? The ominous music in the soundtrack as I start to overthink things?]

I was reading recipes for homemade orgeat — some simple, others much more complex and involved — when I started to wonder about making it from pistachios, rather than almonds. This led to more research than I can really justify, and several trips to the store, for ever-larger amounts of raw pistachios.

In the end, here’s what I came up with:

Pistachio Orgeat
Equal parts, by volume:
• sugar
• water
• raw, shelled pistachios

1. Chop the pistachios in a blender
2. Boil the sugar and water together to make a simple syrup
3. Steep the pistachio crumbs in the syrup for several hours
4. Strain the pistachio solids out, then squeeze

The Paisley Jane
• 2 slices of cucumber
• ½ oz. unsweetened pomegranate or cranberry juice
• 1½ oz. vodka
• 1½ oz. pistachio orgeat
• ½ oz. full fat plain yogurt
• Exactly 3 drops rose water (seriously – no more, no less. Trust me on this.)
• A pinch of sumac powder for garnish (Not optional. See below.)

1. Place the cucumber slices at the bottom of a cocktail shaker, then top them with ice. If you do it this way, you don’t have to muddle or bruise the cucumber. The ice will do it for you.
2. Add all the other ingredients except the sumac.
3. Shake vigorously for longer than you think you actually need to. Remember that you are throwing down a beating on the cucumbers.
4. Strain over ice into a rocks glass or an Old Fashioned glass.
5. Top with a generous pinch of sumac.

A note on sumac: Sumac is a Middle Eastern spice that has a distinct, sour, astringent note to it. It is one of the garnishes called for in the original Hazy Jane recipe. Without it, this pistachio version is missing something. You can buy sumac at any Middle Eastern grocery store or online.
You have to be somewhat obsessive to try this, but the good news is that you won’t have to drastically change your appearance.

Featured photo: Paisley Jane. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Dave Mielke

Dave Mielke of Amherst and his father Harold opened Smokehaus Barbecue (278 Route 101, Amherst, 249-5734, smokehausbbq.com) together in May 2018. The duo joined forces late the year before, completely rebuilding and redesigning the inside of the former Burger Mill restaurant on Route 101 themselves to give it its rustic look. Smokehaus is open six days a week for lunch and dinner, offering a menu of low-and-slow smoked meats available as sandwich or dinner plate options, from beef brisket and baby back ribs to pulled pork and pulled chicken, as well as fresh sides like collard greens, baked beans and coleslaw, and all types of house-made dry rubs and sauces. The eatery also carries regular offerings from several local craft breweries.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

An immersion blender. We make a lot of sauce with it. We probably make around 25 gallons of barbecue sauce a week, so it gets used quite often.

What would you have for your last meal?

My last meal would be schnitzel and German potato salad. My mom makes that for me every year for my birthday.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Papa Joe’s Humble Kitchen [in Milford]. Those guys are great. In my opinion, they’ve got the best burgers in the entire state.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at your restaurant?

Adam Sandler. If he was in town, I would be absolutely happy with my life at that point. He seems like a down-to-earth guy, plus he’s local.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

That would be the fatty brisket. We’re one of the few barbecue places that has fatty and lean brisket. You can get it as a sandwich or a plate. My two sides of choice would be the collard greens, which are my mother-in-law’s recipe, and the coleslaw.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I really see sustainability itself as a trend. A lot of places opening up are utilizing local farms as much as they can. People are really starting to see how important it is to help our local businesses thrive.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I make a really excellent pho. My son loves it with Vietnamese meatballs.

Sweet bourbon barbecue sauce
From the kitchen of Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst (quantities are for large batches; cut measurements down in half for smaller batches)

8 cans Murphy’s stout
3 cups bourbon
16 cups ketchup
½ cup onion powder
½ cup garlic powder
½ cup red pepper flakes
4 cups brown sugar
1 cup molasses

Combine all ingredients in a large pot. While stirring, bring to a boil until all alcohol is cooked out (roughly 45 minutes). Let cool and enjoy.

Featured Photo: Dave Mielke of Smokehaus Barbecue in Amherst, with his dad, Harold. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Tastes of home

Copper Kettle To Go opens in Wilton

Chris and Megan Gordon really want you to feel at home inside their new Wilton cafe — they’ve even added their own kitchen table to the main dining space. But Copper Kettle To Go in Wilton, which quietly opened its doors on Sept. 17, is more than just a cafe. It’s also a grocery shop offering take-and-bake meals and a downstairs taphouse featuring a rotation of local brews.

Even though much of their preparation for the new cafe has taken place amid the pandemic, Chris Gordon said he and his wife, who previously owned the Copper Kettle Bakery in Brookline, have taken it in stride. After all, their mission from the beginning was to bring families back together around the dinner table at home with their offerings, which include pastas and sauces, fresh baked goods, spinach pie and other comfort meals.

“We wanted to bring something to the community here that we knew we were missing,” he said. “It’s difficult to find fresh vegetables that are already prepared and food that’s cooked in heartier meals, or just basic things like a nice homemade spaghetti sauce. … I think that one of the things with Covid that’s actually been almost a positive thing for us was that it taught people that our business model can exist and that it can be strong.”

If you’re visiting the space, which is directly across from the Wilton Town Hall Theatre on Main Street, just to shop, you don’t have to leave the upstairs level of the cafe. There are several designated areas across the space, including for raw meats, fresh produce, and seasonings and spices. A refrigerated case is stocked with prepared dinners in 8×8 or 13×9-sized pans (including comfort items like macaroni and cheese and chicken pot pie), plus dairy products like butter and cream and a small selection of canned beers. Across the room, a pantry section features various nonperishables like boxed pastas and rice.

“The floor plan was designed in a free-flowing path, with signs above that categorize everything, sort of similar to a grocery store,” Gordon said.

But if you’re sitting down to enjoy a meal, there’s space for that too. Gordon said a few lunch and dinner menu items are available for diners of either the upstairs cafe or downstairs taphouse. They’ll likely change all the time, with a few constant offerings, like the Bennington Railrolls, named after the Milford-Bennington Railroad behind the building.

“They are steak and cheese egg rolls served with a garlic aioli, and they’ve been our leading seller,” he said. “Nearly every customer ordered them when they came in the first week.”

Other recent items have included loaded baked potato soup; shepherd’s pie; a grilled vegetable sandwich on a sub roll, served with summer squash, zucchini, peppers, onions and mayonnaise; a pulled pork sandwich on a sesame seed bun with barbecue sauce from Tim’s Drunken Sauces & Rubs; a BLT with hand-cut smoky bacon, lettuce and tomato, served on rye or white bread; and a pot belly burrito with cilantro lime rice, wrapped and smothered in enchilada sauce with cheese and house espinaca on top.

“We’ll roll something out all the time that’s new, fresh and exciting,” Gordon said. “We’re big-time foodies, and we love nothing more than to bring something new in. So you can expect the menu to change quite frequently.”

Visitors can also venture downstairs to the taphouse, which includes additional seating on wooden bar tables Gordon built himself. Eight taplines, many representing local breweries like Henniker Brewing Co., Laughing Crow Beer in Amherst, 603 Brewery in Londonderry, Concord Craft Brewing Co. and the Contoocook Cider Co., are expected to rotate periodically.

“We’ll definitely keep the juicier IPAs in here, and then maybe bring out some porters or stouts in the winter months and some more lighter stuff as we get warmer again, to really match the seasons,” Gordon said. “Just like our food menu, it will be a really free-flowing kind of thing.”

A door from the taphouse leads outside to a deck overlooking the Souhegan River. Gordon said both the taphouse and the deck are also available to rent for private events or functions.

Copper Kettle To Go
Where
: 39 Main St., Wilton
Hours: Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., and Thursday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Visit: copperkettletogo.com

Featured photo: Loaded baked potato soup. Photo courtesy of Copper Kettle To Go.

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