The Weekly Dish 25/11/27

Wine week: Tickets are on sale now for the 20th Annual New England Winter Wine Spectacular slated for Thursday, Jan. 22, at the DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Downtown, 700 Elm St. Doors open at 6 p.m. for general admission, 5 p.m. for people with Advanced Entrance and Bellman’s Cellar Select tickets, according to nhwineweek.com. The Wine Week events will also feature Sommelier Select, on Wednesday, Jan. 21, 5:30 to 8 p.m. at Grappone Center in Concord which is a guided blind tasting, according to the website, where you can purchase tickets for that event as well.

Farmers market goes indoors: The Concord Farmers’ Market has moved indoors for the season. Fresh, local products will be available Saturdays from 9 a.m. to noon at 7 Eagle Square in Concord.

Gingerbread decor: The Goffstown Public Library (2 High St., Goffstown, 497-2102, goffstownlibrary.com) will host a family gingerbread house decorating session Saturday, Nov. 29, from 11 a.m. to noon, and Wednesday, Dec. 3, from 6 to 7 p.m. in the children’s room. Pre-built gingerbread houses and decorating goodies will be provided; you just need to bring your imagination. Space is limited and registration is required. One registration per family please.

Ramen bar: There will be a DIY Ramen Bar for tweens and teens (ages 10 and up) at the Maxfield Public Library (8 Route 129, Loudon, 798-5153, maxfieldlibrary.org) Tuesday, Dec. 2, at 4 p.m. Customize your own ramen with a variety of toppings in the Community Room. Feel free to bring Thanksgiving leftovers to create some wild options. Registration is encouraged.

Holiday cooking with wine: On Wednesday, Dec. 3, from 6 to 7 p.m., LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111, Derry, 672-9898, labellewinery.com/labelle-winery-derry) will host an interactive cooking demonstration and tasting featuring holiday cocktail party recipes. Sample each class recipe paired with LaBelle Wines. LaBelle’s chefs demonstrate the cooking processes and share culinary tips and techniques. Participants will also receive recipe cards so they can re-create the class recipes at home. The cost is $40 per person at labellewinery.com/public-winery-events.

A view to a kielbasa

Holy Trinity holds its annual frozen food sale

By John Fladd

jfladd@hippopress.com

For the parishioners at Holy Trinity Cathedral in Manchester, one of the food high points of the year is their annual Frozen Polish Food Sale, which event coordinator Karen Sobiechowski says is probably Holy Trinity’s most important fundraising event of the year.

“It’s the only fundraiser that we have for our church here during the year,” she said, “so it’s all-around a great thing for people to enjoy good food and fellowship and that sort of thing.”

“Our church is known for its delicious Polish food,” Sobiechowski said. “We make pierogi — both the potato and cheese pierogi and the cabbage pierogi. We make stuffed cabbage — they’re called golabki — and we also sell kapusta, which is a cabbage dish with some pork in it.”

To buy frozen food, customers order it ahead of time, either on the telephone or online, and pick it up on a given day — Dec. 6 this year. Sobiechowski said pierogi (Polish dumplings, a little like ravioli filled with potatoes or cheese) are the sale’s most popular items each year.

“I think that people appreciate the pierogi just because it’s a laborious process to make them,” she said. “You have to make all the dough, you prepare the filling, there’s multiple ingredients to put together and if one tries to do these things at home, their kitchen looks like a hurricane blew through, with a lot of flour everywhere. But we enjoy getting together. It’s a lot of work, but it’s a labor of love. We have parishioners and volunteers from the community. Some of them are just friends who like to eat Polish food but would like to learn how to make it.”

Sobiechowski said coordinating volunteers on the days when they cook some of the dishes can be challenging; there are a lot of moving parts in play at any given time.

“So, yeah, you have to prepare the ingredients before you can actually assemble the pierogi, for instance,” she said. “You have to cook potatoes, cook onions, [and] mix all these things together. The filling has to cool, and then different volunteers will come and portion things out into the individual servings you would use for an individual dumpling.” She said the filling-portioner uses a small disher like an ice cream scoop to measure out the pierogi filling. “We do that for the pierogi,” she said, “and we also do that for the stuffed cabbage when we make those, so that all of the products are similar and consistent.”

“And then people will come and make the dough in the evening,” Sobiechowski continued, ”and then the next day we’re putting everything together. You have a couple of people in the kitchen that are cooking and some people that are cooling the product and then there are others who are packing and putting those items in the freezer. So it’s a lot of different things happening all at once.”

By the time the frozen dishes are picked up, Sobiechowski admitted, even the most enthusiastic volunteers are a little golabki-ed out.

“We’re going to be doing the stuffed cabbage next week, and then the other volunteers will come and make the kapusta, which we sell by the pint. That will all be done before Thanksgiving, thankfully. We’re just looking forward to getting this good food out to the people that are nice enough to support our parish.”

Frozen Polish Food
To order dishes from the Holy Trinity Cathedral Frozen Polish Food Sale, download an order from at holytrinitypncc.org/downloads or call the rectory during business hours at 622-4524.

Food pickup is scheduled for Saturday, Dec. 6, between 10 a.m. and noon. Holy Trinity Cathedral is at 166 Pearl St. in Manchester.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo

The Weekly Dish 25/11/20

Zonta holiday auction and dinner: The Zonta Club of Concord, NH (zontaclubofconcordnh.org) will hold its 33rd annual Holiday Auction and Dinner Thursday, Nov. 20, beginning at 5:30 p.m. at the Pembroke Pines Country Club (45 Whittemore Road, Pembroke, 210-1365, pembrokepinescc.com). This event will feature a hosted cocktail hour, a plated dinner, live music, and silent and live auctions. Tickets are $75 through the Zonta website.

Dinner in the Emerald City: Defy gravity at Evening in Oz: a Wicked-Inspired Wine Dinner at LaBelle Winery Derry (14 Route 111, Derry, 672-9898, labellewinery.com/labelle-winery-derry) on Saturday, Nov. 22, from 6:30 to 9 p.m. This four-course meal will feature a curated dinner menu that pays homage to the Broadway production and the new films, with LaBelle wine pairings served alongside each course, and Oz-themed decor in the Vineyard Ballroom. Tickets are $85.

The Soup Kitchen: To Share Brewing (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) will host The Soup Kitchen: A Drag Show and Food Drive, described on To Share’s Facebook page as “a night of camp, glamour, and community giving,” Saturday, Nov. 22, at 8 p.m. Featuring hostesses Glamme Chowdah and Sybill Disobedience, this event will help stock local free stores and food pantries before the holidays. Admission is at least one non-perishable food item or a cash donation of $10 to $20 at the door. All proceeds go directly to support local families in need.

Cinnamon Butter Cookies

I picked up my first wooden cookie mold at a flea market. After a little online research I discovered that in Germany and Scandinavia, and in most of the Middle East, cookies made from hand-carved wooden molds are very traditional. You can find hand-carved wooden cookie molds in specialty shops or online. Etsy is a good resource for finding cool ones. A lot of cookie doughs made for molds need to be thoroughly chilled, but this one works straight out of the mixer.

Cinnamon Butter Cookies

  • 1 cup (2 sticks) cold butter
  • 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
  • 1 large egg, cold
  • 1 glug (probably 1 to 2 teaspoons) vanilla
  • 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 3 cups (400 g) all-purpose flour
  • Vegetable oil and powdered sugar to coat the cookie molds

Preheat your oven to 350°F.

Whisk the cinnamon, baking powder and flour together in a medium mixing bowl, and set aside.

In your stand mixer or with a hand-held electric mixer, beat the butter until it is reasonably fluffy. Add the sugar, and beat the mixture until it is even fluffier.

Mix in the egg, then the vanilla.

Turn the mixer down to its slowest speed, then spoon the flour mixture in, a bit at a time, so you don’t get covered with flour.

Use a small paint brush — preferably one you haven’t actually painted with – to completely coat the inside of your wooden cookie mold with oil, then use another brush to cover the inside surface of the mold with powdered sugar. You will not have to re-oil the mold, but you need to powder it Every. Single. Time you use it.

Pinch off a chunk of dough — you’ll have to play around to see how much fills your mold, but start with a piece about the size of a ping-pong ball — and press it into the mold, making sure you get dough into all the corners and crevices.

Turn the mold over and smack it sharply into the heel of your hand, over a silicone or parchment-lined baking sheet. You might have to smack your hand several times before the cookie falls free. The more sore your hand gets, the more diligent you will be about thoroughly powdering the mold.

These cookies won’t spread, so feel free to arrange as many on the baking sheet as you wish. Bake for approximately 10 minutes, then remove from the oven and cool completely on the baking sheet, before removing the cookies to a plate for serving.

With the holidays approaching, these cookies are good ones to start your pre-season cookie training with. They are buttery, almost like shortbread, and mildly cinnamon-y. They are delicious warm with ice cream, or ice cold from the freezer, with a small glass of sherry.

Featured photo: Dehli Cooler. Photo by John Fladd.

What wine pairs with a brownie?

Clyde’s Dessert and Wine Bar saves the best for first

One of Clyde Bullen’s biggest hurdles to opening his wine and dessert bar, Clyde’s Dessert and Wine Bar in Manchester, was finding a way to classify it.

“We had to go through a couple of bells and whistles with the state,” he said, “because we’re one of the first dessert bars that just specializes in desserts and wine. A year ago we wouldn’t have been allowed to open. The state had to make some changes, because back in the day, to keep people from just opening up a motorcycle club or something, you had to serve entrees to get a liquor license. In the 30 days we’ve been open people have been stoked that they could come in and try our pairings of wines with our desserts.”

Bullen’s new brick and mortar dessert bar marks a change from his successful food trucks.

“We just finished up our 16th year,” Bullen said, “and we have a total of four food trucks that run up and down New England. We specialize in desserts; we call it a mobile dessert bakery. One of the nice features we do on our trucks is you get to choose one of our 13 brownies to make your own brownie sundae. We care more about the brownies than we do the ice cream.”

Bullen said the inspiration for the new physical location for Clyde’s Cupcakes is a particular type of customer.

“Especially dessert lovers who like desserts more than they do the entree or the meal themselves,” he said. “You know, those people who start with desserts first and work their way backward through a meal. And with the brick and mortar, it gives us the opportunity to provide more than we could do in a truck. We couldn’t do crème brûlées or gelatos. This is a chance to serve unique dessert offerings with our wines.”

Bullen used dark chocolate as an example. Extremely dark chocolate has fruity notes, he said, which pair with the fruitiness of wine.

“One of our unique pairings right now is a sauvignon blanc wine paired with a cupcake that we’ve made for 16 years and has a cult following, Chocolate Overdose. It’s a chocolate cupcake filled with chocolate fluff and chocolate buttercream, with a Lindt chocolate brownie on top, chocolate-covered jimmies, and a Ghirardelli chocolate ganache on top. It’s a real moist, decadent cake that pairs really nice with a cabernet sauvignon blanc. Eighty percent of our wines are sweet; some of the best wines are well known for [pairing] with chocolate or chocolate and strawberry. You have your pinot noirs, cabernets, your ports, the ones that have nice robust flavors with them.”

Bullen said it has been important to set a relaxed tone in the new space.

“We’re trying to provide a nice, relaxed atmosphere,” he said. “We are playing records here. We have dominoes. So we’re not asking you to just place your order and bounce. We’ve set it up to make it a cozy spot so that, you know, you can come talk, conversate, and just try different desserts and different pairings. People are enjoying our record collection. Everyone’s just shocked at how cozy and comfortable the place is inside.”

The dessert bar is located in the new Queen City Center on Canal Street in Manchester, next door to Harpoon Brewery.

“Right now we’re following the same hours as Harpoon,” Bullen said. “So we’re open Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, and we’re following Harpoon’s hours 1 to 9 [p.m.].

The combination of wine and desserts gives Bullen and his staff a chance to be creative and experiment, he said.

“This weekend we did a nice white wine flight that we paired wonderfully with a lemon trifecta, which was a lemon cupcake, a lemon bar and then lemon gelato.”

Clyde’s Dessert and Wine Bar
Where: 215 Canal St., Manchester
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 1 to 9 p.m.
Find them on Instagram @clydescupcakes

Featured photo: Photo courtesy of Clyde’s Cupcakes.

Pie showdown

In Goffstown, a crusty grudge match

Goffstown’s annual Once Upon a Pie baking competition and social event is not just a tasty fundraiser for the Goffstown Public Library but also the setting for a showdown between town government departments. According to Evelyn Redmond, one of the event’s organizers, for the past several years there has been an ongoing rivalry between the Town’s Parks and Recreation Department, and the Police.

“We take pies submitted by anybody who wants to participate,” she said, “and categorize them as far as ingredients. We have, I think, 13 different categories, plus we have an inter-department contest. So anyone who works for the town at one of the town departments can submit pies in that category. But this past year we’ve had Public Works in the mix, so this is going to be an interesting competition.”

The Once Upon a Pie competition is held every year on the Saturday before Thanksgiving, Redmond said, and is a major fundraiser for the Goffstown Public Library Foundation, which helps fund library programs outside its official budget, such as supplying museum passes for patrons. “We have probably 200 people that attend the event,” she said, referring to Once Upon a Pie. “And it is our second major fundraiser of the year. The first one that we do is we participate in New Hampshire Gives in June. But we’re acquiring more supporters every year, just trying to keep the library capital needs taken care of. That’s our mission.”

The pie event raises money in three ways. Bakers pay to submit pies for a judged competition, pie-lovers from the community pay to eat pie, and prize-winning pies are auctioned off.

Every year, there are dark-horse competitors who surprise everyone, Redmond said.

“We have a kids’ category, which is [open to] anyone up to the age of 18. Actually, two years ago the top winning pies were made by the teenagers. It was a Key lime pie, and they actually had just gotten together because they wanted to bake, and they did a beautiful job. It was very nice-looking and the judges gave it fabulous marks for tasting wonderful.”

On the day of the competition, pies need to be submitted by 11:30 a.m., Redmond said, so the judges have time to taste all of them. Having to taste many, many pies sounds like a good problem to have, but she said that it can actually be pretty gruelling.

“Last year we received 88 separate pies to be judged, and it was a burden on our three teams of judges, so they each had to taste almost 30 different pies. So this year we’ve added an additional team of judges. So hopefully we can get that number down and go a little bit easier on their stomachs. But yeah, because even if it’s only a tablespoon, 30 tablespoons is a lot of pie.”

Between the pie judging and the public part of the event, Once Upon a Pie Day is a long one. “we start at nine o’ clock in the morning,” Redmond said, “and we usually don’t leave the building until nine o’ clock at night. Last year a lot of people came in at the very last minute with a lot of pies. So that pushed our whole schedule back and some of us never even got a break during that 12-hour period last year. So this year we’ve built in a break time.”

For Redmond, the biggest surprise of last year’s event was the winning pie.

“The biggest surprise was the top-winning pie was just a regular pumpkin pie,” she said. The event’s website (gplnhfoundation.org/once-upon-a-pie) has photos of last year’s winning pies and a description of the overall winner that says, “What a pumpkin pie should be.”

Redmond said Once Upon a Pie is a tradition that has become part of Goffstown’s culture. People from all walks of life, political persuasions and social circles all come together, bound by their love of pie.

“It’s almost like this is a metaphor,” she said. “The pie competition is all about the community, in the same way that the Library provides value to the community.”

Once Upon a Pie
Where: Goffstown High School, 27 Wallace Road, Goffstown, 497-4841.
When: Saturday, Nov. 22. Pie drop-off for entrants is from 9:30 to 11:30 a.m. Ticket sales for the public pie appreciation event that is open to the public begin at 6:15 p.m. Slices of pie are $3 each, from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Pie registration forms are available on the event’s website at gplnhfoundation.org/once-upon-a-pie.

Featured photo: Courtesy photo.

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