Big flavors for sunny days

Wines for your summer feasts

Summer is officially upon us.

Mother Nature has proven herself to be merciless as she introduced summer with our first official heat wave. Covid-19 and social distancing have limited our socializing, but as our world begins to open, small intimate backyard barbecues can once again become a reality for you, your family and close friends. We have been kept inside for so long that a simple barbecue can seem like a banquet! To that end the following wines are worthy of consideration for that great meal to be enjoyed out of doors.

Nicholson Ranch 2012 Sonoma Estate Chardonnay (originally priced at the NH Liquor and Wine Outlets at $44.99, and reduced at the Price Busters shelving to $22.99) won 86 points by Virginie Boone of Wine Enthusiast, who describes it this way: “oak, ripe pear and caramel dance to the fore of this wine’s bouquet, followed by thick, textural layers of lingering vanilla cream. The oak remains pronounced throughout the glass, giving the wine a sweetness on the finish.” I agree with this assessment, but I would add the wine has a bit of a citric note to it, with a full mouth taste of apricot, or peach. This wine is indeed very creamy; a friend described it as “buttery.” The oak combined with the “cream” allows this wine to become an excellent dessert accompaniment to summer fruit: strawberries, apricots, peaches along with soft, young cheeses. A true delight.

According to their website, Nicholson Ranch is a small family-owned winery of 40 acres located between the Sonoma and Napa valleys with panoramic views of these valleys but also Carneros, situated just north of San Pablo Bay. The cool breezes from the Mayacamas mountain range, just to the north, combined with the cooling effects of the Bay, combine for ideal conditions for pinot noir and chardonnay vineyards, the plantings of Nicholson Ranch.

Hierogram 2016 Vineyard 8 Block N Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi) (originally priced at the NH Liquor and Wine Outlets at $45.99, and reduced at the Price Busters shelving to $22.99) got 86 points from Jim Gordon of Wine Enthusiast, who wrote, “…full bodied and quite ripe in flavor, this wine has a smoky, grilled veggie aroma followed by a mix of savory and jammy notes.” This aptly describes this wine that has an incredibly high alcoholic content of 15 percent and that is dry, yet surprisingly not “hot” from the alcohol. The wine has a deep, deep purple color; it is floral and prune-like at the same time. It has notes of blackberries and dark chocolate to the tongue, with a very pleasant and long finish. The tannins are there, but subtle. It is ideally suited to a variety of grilled foods such as ribs and hamburgers or to pairing with a red-sauced pasta. And what you do not finish over the meal, you can walk over to the fire pit with and just kick back.

The wine comes from Lodi, in California’s Central Coast, halfway between San Francisco and the Sierra Nevada mountain range. It is a prime example of old-vine zinfandels: 100-year-old vines, with some dating back to 1888! Lodi has warm, sunny days and cool evenings, and is home not just to zinfandel but also a vast array of other red wines. Zinfandel has an interesting history. Originating in Croatia, it made its way to southern Italy where it was named Primitivo. It came to America in the first half of the 19th century and landed in California during the Gold Rush of 1849. These ancient vines, located near Sacramento, languished during Prohibition, and today produce exceptionally concentrated and complex wines. They are a treat!

So head out to your backyard this evening to a great meal, paired with a robust red, followed by a delightful white paired to a seasonal dessert. And don’t forget to continue to savor these rich flavors, seated by a small fire in the firepit. Enjoy our all-too-short summer to its fullest.

The Weekly Dish 20/06/25

Get your Greek food fix: Join St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) for a Greek pop-up drive-through event on Friday, June 26, and Saturday, June 27, from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Online or call-in ordering is available now for a limited menu of fresh Greek eats, including a meatball, dolmathes and spanakopita dinner plate, as well as a la carte items like baklava, cheese or spinach tiropita, three orders of dolmathes, three meatballs or spanakopita. Call-in orders are also accepted on either day of the event (no walk-ins). A larger menu of offerings is expected to be available at St. Philip’s annual Greek food festival, which has been rescheduled to Friday, Oct. 2, and Saturday, Oct. 3. To place your online order for the pop-up event, visit nashuagreekfestival.com.

Barbecue at LaBelle: LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst) is hosting a community barbecue and music event on Friday, July 3, from 6 to 8 p.m., featuring a live performance by Robert Allwarden and sparklers given out to families. The menu for the evening will include artisan breads with Vermont butter, seasonal garden salad with The Winemaker’s Kitchen seyval blanc vinaigrette, corn on the cob, house-made potato chips, baked macaroni and cheese, barbecue chicken breast, hot dogs for kids and strawberry shortcake for dessert. A full cash bar will also be available. The cost is $25 for adults and $15 for kids. Visit labellewineryevents.com.

Manchester farm stand: Intown’s Farm Stand, a smaller version of Intown Manchester’s summer farmers market, kicks off its summer season Thursday, June 25, from 3 to 6 p.m. at Victory Park (intersection of Concord and Chestnut streets in Manchester). Sara Beaudry, the executive director of Intown Manchester, told the Hippo the stand will feature members of Fresh Start Farms, a program of the Manchester-based Organization for Refugee and Immigrant Success, selling fresh vegetables, including ethnic crops like amaranth greens and African eggplant once they are in season. The farm stand replaces the Intown Farmer’s Market for the year will continue every Thursday through August. Visit intownmanchester.com or find them on Facebook @manchesterfood.

Puritan reopens for indoor dining: The Puritan Backroom Restaurant in Manchester reopened its dining room and bar on June 17 for same-day reservations, according to a press release. Phone lines are open beginning at 10 a.m. each day, for people to make reservations between 4 and 8 p.m. that evening. In accordance with state guidelines, the dining room is operating at 50 percent capacity only, with parties seated at tables at least six feet apart. Parties of one or two can reserve seats at the bar. Walk-ins are currently not accepted. Same-day takeout orders are available beginning at 9 a.m., with drive-through pickups from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Call 669-6890 to make a reservation for indoor dining or call 623-3182 to place a takeout order.

In the kitchen with Jessica Kliskey

After a few years of making her own broths for family and friends and studying its benefits as a certified health coach, Jessica Kliskey of Stratham decided to turn it into a business in 2017. Hugs Broth (hugsbroth.com, find her on Facebook @hugsbonebroth) offers homemade chicken bone and vegetable broths, both of which Kliskey said use local organic ingredients and are great sources for boosting your immunity and improving gut health. The chicken bone broth is made with non-GMO pastured chicken bones, carrots, celery, onions, parsley and apple cider vinegar, while the vegetarian broth also has garlic, turmeric and nori — both are versatile, for use as soup bases or for cooking with quinoa or rice. Kliskey is also working on a fish bone broth she hopes will be available soon. She first made her broths at Umami Farm Fresh Cafe in Northwood, which her son Bobby co-founded, before moving her operations to a small commercial kitchen in Chester in 2019. In the past, Hugs Broth has appeared at the Salem and Exeter Farmers Markets, but Kliskey has temporarily stopped attending due to Covid-19. However, broths are currently available in 32-ounce containers for pickup at the Chester kitchen (84 Chester St.; email Kliskey directly at [email protected]) or online through the Community Farmer’s Allegiance (cfaeats.com).

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A large pot.

What would you have for your last meal?

It would probably be fried scallops and french fries. I love fresh seafood in any fashion.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Popovers [on the Square] in Portsmouth. I push their business a lot.

What celebrity would you like to see trying one of your products?

Keeping it local, I would say [television host] Tom Bergeron. Or [singer-songwriter] Judy Collins. Tom would be more fun, but I would learn a lot more from Judy. She’s got a lot of wisdom and I love that.

What is your favorite thing to make with one of your broths?

I love adding it into my homemade baked beans, but honestly, I also just love to warm it up and sip it.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Food truck food is very trendy. Everybody seems to love them.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I love just a big breakfast with pancakes, bacon, eggs, things like that.

Summer quinoa salad
Courtesy of Jessica Kliskey of Hugs Broth (hugsbroth.com)

1 cup of quinoa per two cups mix of broth and water
Vegetables or herbs of choice (such as chopped up cucumbers, red onion, tomato or parsley)
Salt and pepper to taste, or spices of choice
Rinse, drain and cook the quinoa, using one cup per two cups of liquid broth and water. Toss in your favorite vegetables and spices, or chicken or fish as an added protein.

Irish flair

Flanagan’s Southender opens in Concord

As a kid growing up in Concord’s South End, Dave Banzhoff can remember frequenting the former Ordway’s Market across the street from his childhood home. Decades later, Banzhoff is back in his hometown as chef of a new grab-and-go and takeout eatery — housed in the very same building as Ordway’s all those years ago.

Flanagan’s Southender Deli & Market, which opened on June 18, gets its name from co-owners and brothers Ian and Tynan Flanagan, childhood friends of Banzhoff’s who were also regulars at Ordway’s. The pair recruited him to return to his old stomping grounds once they found out the property was for sale. At the time, Banzhoff was living in Florida working as a cook at the Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island, but it didn’t take much convincing for him to return.

“My wife and I are both New Hampshire locals, and we were actually looking to come back home anyway,” he said. “I had worked at the Omni Mount Washington Resort for seven years [as a cook], and I had learned a lot there.”

For the last 11 years, the popular spot at the intersection of South Street and Iron Works Road was known as Cimo’s South End Deli. The Flanagan brothers took over the space on June 1 from former owner John Cimokoski, according to Banzhoff. Since then, the trio has spent the last several weeks remodeling and working on an all new menu.

“When it was Ordway’s it was more of a neighborhood deli and market, and over the years it’s kind of turned into a convenience store,” Banzhoff said. “So we’re moving away from that and going back to fresh, homemade food, grab-and-go salads, sandwiches, pizzas, things like that. … It’s a fresher, more modern take on the deli and market.”

Breakfast is available from 6 to 11 a.m. each day, featuring items like sandwiches, burritos, a pizza with an egg scramble and crumbled bacon, and baked goods like homemade muffins. They also carry a selection of doughnuts from Brothers Donuts of Franklin.

The lunch menu includes more than a dozen hot and cold sandwiches You can stick with a traditional option and get a chicken Parmigiana, an Italian sandwich or a steak and cheese, or you can build your own sandwich, choosing a meat (turkey, ham or roast beef), a cheese (American, Swiss, provolone or cheddar) and assorted toppings and extras. Banzhoff said two or three specials a day on sandwiches, soups and chowders will be featured.

There are also pizzas available by the slice or as whole pies, as well as some fried foods, like french fries, onion rings and chicken fingers.

Salads include larger, entree-sized options such as Caesar, Greek and caprese, and smaller, grab-and-go selections like mixed fruit salad, coleslaw, broccoli salad and macaroni salad.

“We’re going to try to do some stuff that people can take home and grill like steaks, kebabs and marinated chicken,” Banzhoff said. “We definitely also want to tap into grab-and-go entrees … where people can take something home, heat it up and feed a family of four. That’s something that we’ve never had here before.”

On the market side of the business, Banzhoff said there is a greater selection of local products than there was before, from craft beers to items like candies and maple syrup.

While Flanagan’s Southender is a takeout business, a few picnic tables have been added outside. About seven to 10 flavors of ice cream are available out of a stationary trailer on the property.

Boxed lunches, which include a sandwich, chips, a drink and a house baked cookie, can be ordered for groups of five or more.

“A big thing that we’re going to keep doing from Cimo’s is … supporting the local sports teams, so we do boxed lunches for all the middle school and high school sports teams from Bow and Concord,” Banzhoff said. “We all have strong ties to this neighborhood … and that was something that we wanted to keep doing for the community.”

Flanagan’s Southender Deli & Market
Where:
250 South St., Concord
Hours: Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Saturday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (hours are according to the website and are subject to change)
More info: Visit flanagansouthender.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram, or call 856-8020

South End sandwiches and more

Flanagan’s Southender opens in Concord

As a kid growing up in Concord’s South End, Dave Banzhoff can remember frequenting the former Ordway’s Market across the street from his childhood home. Decades later, Banzhoff is back in his hometown as chef of a new grab-and-go and takeout eatery — housed in the very same building as Ordway’s all those years ago.

Flanagan’s Southender Deli & Market, which opened on June 18, gets its name from co-owners and brothers Ian and Tynan Flanagan, childhood friends of Banzhoff’s who were also regulars at Ordway’s. The pair recruited him to return to his old stomping grounds once they found out the property was for sale. At the time, Banzhoff was living in Florida working as a cook at the Ritz-Carlton, Amelia Island, but it didn’t take much convincing for him to return.

“My wife and I are both New Hampshire locals, and we were actually looking to come back home anyway,” he said. “I had worked at the Omni Mount Washington Resort for seven years [as a cook], and I had learned a lot there.”

For the last 11 years, the popular spot at the intersection of South Street and Iron Works Road was known as Cimo’s South End Deli. The Flanagan brothers took over the space on June 1 from former owner John Cimokoski, according to Banzhoff. Since then, the trio has spent the last several weeks remodeling and working on an all new menu.

“When it was Ordway’s it was more of a neighborhood deli and market, and over the years it’s kind of turned into a convenience store,” Banzhoff said. “So we’re moving away from that and going back to fresh, homemade food, grab-and-go salads, sandwiches, pizzas, things like that. … It’s a fresher, more modern take on the deli and market.”

Breakfast is available from 6 to 11 a.m. each day, featuring items like sandwiches, burritos, a pizza with an egg scramble and crumbled bacon, and baked goods like homemade muffins. They also carry a selection of doughnuts from Brothers Donuts of Franklin.

The lunch menu includes more than a dozen hot and cold sandwiches You can stick with a traditional option and get a chicken Parmigiana, an Italian sandwich or a steak and cheese, or you can build your own sandwich, choosing a meat (turkey, ham or roast beef), a cheese (American, Swiss, provolone or cheddar) and assorted toppings and extras. Banzhoff said two or three specials a day on sandwiches, soups and chowders will be featured.

There are also pizzas available by the slice or as whole pies, as well as some fried foods, like french fries, onion rings and chicken fingers.

Salads include larger, entree-sized options such as Caesar, Greek and caprese, and smaller, grab-and-go selections like mixed fruit salad, coleslaw, broccoli salad and macaroni salad.

“We’re going to try to do some stuff that people can take home and grill like steaks, kebabs and marinated chicken,” Banzhoff said. “We definitely also want to tap into grab-and-go entrees … where people can take something home, heat it up and feed a family of four. That’s something that we’ve never had here before.”

On the market side of the business, Banzhoff said there is a greater selection of local products than there was before, from craft beers to items like candies and maple syrup.

While Flanagan’s Southender is a takeout business, a few picnic tables have been added outside. About seven to 10 flavors of ice cream are available out of a stationary trailer on the property.

Boxed lunches, which include a sandwich, chips, a drink and a house baked cookie, can be ordered for groups of five or more.

“A big thing that we’re going to keep doing from Cimo’s is … supporting the local sports teams, so we do boxed lunches for all the middle school and high school sports teams from Bow and Concord,” Banzhoff said. “We all have strong ties to this neighborhood … and that was something that we wanted to keep doing for the community.”

Flanagan’s Southender Deli & Market
Where:
250 South St., Concord
Hours: Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Saturday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. (hours are according to the website and are subject to change)
More info: Visit flanagansouthender.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram, or call 856-8020

IPA is still king

There is no getting around it

We can talk about stouts and sours and Belgian-style brews and Pilsners and barrel-aging and so on and so forth, but at the end of the day the IPA is still driving the bus. So, let’s get right into it.

I’ve been fortunate to have a series of excellent IPAs recently — not all at once, mind you — and even as I find myself overwhelmed or even burnt out with the style at times, I can’t help myself from going back time and time again.

Simply put, IPAs remain delicious and brewers seem to continually find ways to create exciting brews that delight the palate.

Here are three IPAs I’ve recently enjoyed and one I look forward to enjoying.

Angelica Hazy Orange IPA by Lord Hobo Brewing Co. (Woburn, Massachusetts)

I love the citrusy, sweet burst of a New England-style IPA that gives it that “juicy” characteristic. The combination of hops can provide an array of tropical flavors like papaya, mango, pineapple, grapefruit and orange. So all of that said, I was intrigued but also scared of this beer. Like I said, I like the citrusy burst but I get scared when a beer is labeled with the name of a fruit. It just screams “too sweet” to me. I need not have been afraid. On a blistering hot and humid day, this beer was refreshing, drinkable and extremely tasty. There is big orange flavor but I never got the over-the-top sweetness I feared. Lord Hobo also produces a non-orange version that is also delicious.

Trading Tales Dry Hopped Lager by Collective Arts Brewing Co. (Waunakee, Wisconsin) in collaboration with Dancing Gnome Brewery (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania)

I know, I know this is technically a lager but take a sip and you’ll slot this into the IPA category too. This brew hits you in the face with hops, specifically strata and citra hops but it comes in at an eminently drinkable 5.1-percent ABV. This was an absolute pleasure to drink, and, as with all Collective Arts brews, the can artwork, is, well, interesting.

Rise Double IPA by Breakaway Beerworks (Manchester)

I recently stumbled upon this brewery and grabbed this beer thinking I was grabbing something from an entirely different brewery. Now that it’s clear that I might not be all that detail-oriented these days, I’m glad I did mistakenly choose this brewery, which actually brews its beers at Great North Aleworks in Manchester. Rise is an aggressive brew that is, I think, best described as “amped up.” The hops are amped up, the flavor is amped up, the bitterness is amped up and the alcohol is amped up. But these are all good things. I’m just giving you a heads up. It’s a bold IPA that brings huge citrus and pine flavor. This is a terrific double IPA and I look forward to trying more brews from this brewery.

Playlist 07:01 IPA by Throwback Brewery (North Hampton)

Many breweries are offering ever-evolving versions of their IPAs, keeping the recipe the same but switching up the hop combination or some other aspect of the brew to create a new and interesting concoction with each batch. Throwback’s Playlist beer series features the same “base IPA recipe,” of oats and malts, but they switch up the yeast or the hops with each batch. This iteration, made with dragon, wolf, fox and citra hops and kveik yeast, features flavors of citrus, strawberry and light honey, along with light herbal tea and pine notes, according to the brewery. I’ll be tracking this one down.

What’s in My Fridge
Rise A.P.A. by Whalers Brewing Co. (Wakefield, Rhode Island) I love the can design here featuring a big ol’ whale, of all things, on the front. Their flagship brew, this is a pretty easy-drinking, dry-hopped American Pale Ale that paired quite well with watching my kids run through sprinklers on a hot day. Cheers!

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