The Weekly Dish 24/11/28

News from the local food scene

Last bit of recipe: In the Nov. 21 issue of the Hippo, the last chunk of the recipe for “Paper Bag Apple Pie” was sliced off. The missing instructions read:

“Fasten with paper clips. Bake at 425°F for 1 hour. Split the bag to open.”

New salad source: A branch of the fast-casual restaurant chain Sweet Green has opened in the Market and Main shopping complex off River Road in Bedford. The menu focuses on fresh, light dishes like salads and protein bowls. Sweet Green is at 7 Market St, Suite 2, Bedford, 978-650-3965, sweetgreen.com, and is open seven days a week, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

New supermarket: A new Whole Foods Market will open in Nashua, Tuesday, Dec.10. The 44,600-square-foot store will be located at 272 DW Highway The store will open at 9 a.m. on opening day. Regular store hours will be 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

New coffee: Nashua-based company Rare Breed Coffee (2 Pittsburgh Ave., Nashua, 578-3338, rarebreedcoffee.com) has released a limited-time seasonal coffee called Sleigher. Rare Breed describes the coffee blend as “indulgent” with “notes of brown sugar, orange spice, and vanilla.” See rarebreedcoffee.com.

Rescue and recreation: Tickets are on sale now for the Winter Carnevale and $2,500 Holiday Shopping Spree Raffle to benefit the Salem Animal Rescue League (4 Sarl Drive, Salem, 893-3210, sarlnh.org). The SARL Winter Carnivale will be held at the Castleton Banquet and Conference Center (58 Enterprise Drive, Windham, 898-6300, castletonbcc.com) on Friday, Dec. 6, from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. The event will feature artisan chocolate tasting by Loon Chocolate, food and drink, dancing, live and silent auctions and more. Tickets are $100 per person or $1,000 for a table of 10 and can be purchased through the SARL website.

Gingerbread houses: To Share Brewing (720 Union St., Manchester, 836-6947, tosharebrewing.com) will host a gingerbread house workshop Sunday, Dec.1, at 4 p.m. Build and decorate your own gingerbread house. The price is per house; sharing is recommended. Each house will have sugar windows and the base will include battery-powered lights. Tickets are $55 through oopsiartedagain.as.me.

One more pie

At its best, Thanksgiving is the most relaxing of holidays. You wake up, watch the parade, offer to help whoever is cooking the turkey — but only after you’re certain the actual work has been done — and then do some sort of football-related activity, before eating a truly unconscionable amount of food.

And then there’s the reality — political arguments, the rehashing of childhood grudges, dry turkey and judgmental relatives.

On the other hand, there is pie.

Before we talk about how excellent this pie is — and be under no illusions; it is truly outstanding — we need to talk about the pastry elephant in the room.

Pie crusts.

There is a certain type of baker — not you, of course, but somebody with unresolved pie issues from their childhood — who gets very judgmental about pie crusts. We both know who we’re talking about.

Here’s the thing: If you find yourself cowed by the idea of making pie dough from scratch, and are reluctant to make a pie because of it, there is no shame in buying premade pie dough from the grocery store. None.

Would you rather not have pie because it doesn’t pass some sort of virtue test, or would you like some pie? I put it to you that pie is better than no pie.

If you’re in charge of the pie this year and you buy a roll of frozen premade dough, all you have to do is let it thaw on the counter for a few minutes, unroll it into a pie pan, crimp the edges and get on with your life. If anyone asks what the secret of your consistently excellent pie crust is, you can either hold your head high, stare them down and tell the truth, or answer, “Ritual sacrifice.”

Don’t let your in-laws throw shade on your pie.

Sour Cream Pie with Chocolate

  • 2 large eggs
  • ½ cup (60 g) all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup (107 g) white sugar
  • ½ cup (107 g) brown sugar
  • ½ tsp kosher or coarse sea salt
  • 1 cup (227 g) full-fat sour cream
  • 4 ounces (114 g) chopped dark chocolate – the darker the better; 75-80 percent; you’ll want a little bitterness in the finished pie
  • 1 unbaked pie shell

Preheat oven to 325°F.

With a hand mixer, or in a stand mixer, beat the eggs until they are very foamy, two minutes or so.

Beat in the flour, sugars and salt.

Beat in the sour cream.

Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, and give the mixture a quick stir to make sure everything is mixed together.

Mix in the chopped chocolate, then pour into the pie shell.

Bake for 1 hour.

Serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream or ice cream.

When you slice this pie you’ll notice that it has separated into two layers, a top, cookie-like layer on top, with a melty chocolate layer underneath. The flavor has a lot in common with a chocolate-chip cookie, too, but the dark chocolate and the sour cream prevent its sweetness from being cloying. This is another “the-flavor-comes-at-you-in-stages” dessert. The chocolate seems very dominant at first, but then there are little pops of salt, and the sourness of the sour cream comes in at the end.

This is an easy sell to someone who is distrustful of new foods. “It’s like a chocolate chip cookie!” you’ll say. “But for grown-ups,” you’ll mutter under your breath, as you pass them their plate and the whipped cream.

Featured Photo: Sour Cream Pie with Chocolate. Photo by John Fladd.

Pie, competitively

Apple takes on Key lime and more at Once Upon a Pie

It sounds like a nice problem to have, but according to Evelyn Redmond, one of the most challenging aspects of organizing Goffstown’s yearly Pie Competition and Auction is keeping the judges from being completely overwhelmed with pie.

“This year, we’re actually going to have nine judges,” she said. “We decided to try to go a little easier on them because last year we had 70 pies to judge. [The] six judges that we had in attendance had to each test little tiny samples, but that’s still 35 different types of pies!”

Redmond is the organizer of the Once Upon a Pie baking competition and pie auction scheduled for Saturday, Nov. 23, in the Goffstown High School cafeteria (27 Wallace Road, Goffstown, 497-4841). “We actually had to move our event from a smaller venue at the Congregational Church, because we had so many attendees that people were standing. We’re expecting at least 200 people this year, which was our attendance last year.”

The yearly pie event, which raises funds for the Goffstown Public Library (2 High St, Goffstown, 497-2102, goffstownlibrary.com), is a combination baking competition and auction.

“It’s also a social event,” Redmond said. “During the day, in the morning, we accept pies for judging, up until noon, and then we tally the scores and come up with the first place. We award best in category, runner-up, and other designations besides first place, second place, third place. Then in the evening, starting at 6, we sell tickets to the public for $3. Anyone can get a slice of pie and a beverage. It’s really a social hour. During the evening, we have the runners up on a stand for silent auction, then at 7 p.m. we go to a live auction for the top-placed pies.”

Individuals from the community can submit pies, as well as various departments in the town government. Redmond said there is a long-standing grudge-match between the Goffstown Police Department and Parks and Recreation. “Their award has gone back and forth between the two groups multiple times over the last several years,” she said.

Which brings us back to the judges.

“We solicit judges from the community,” Redmond said. “In the past, we tried to keep the judges secret up until the time of the event. I believe this year we will announce who our judges have been at the end of the evening just before we start our auction. I actually asked someone to be a judge this year; he says, ‘I’m diabetic!’,” she remembered with a laugh.

“We have changed it up a bit,” she said. “We’ve got three different judges judging sessions and nine judges. We’re hoping we have just as many pies to judge, but we’re also hoping to go a little easier on their taste buds. We provide them with water and we have saltine crackers to cleanse their palates. But you can imagine it’s a fairly fast-paced process because we have to get through that many different pies.The judges judge first the pie on its appearance, and then we go ahead and take the little slice out of it and they have to judge it on five or six different attributes.” The pies are judged blind. “We have a coding process so that we can identify whose pie is which and the judges never know whose pie is whose,” Redmond said.

The pies themselves cover an entire pie spectrum from traditional apple pies to quiches to savory meat pies. “I know that one of the contestants is very proud of his Key lime pie,” Redmond said. She herself is a serious baker and submits pie to the competition every year. “I haven’t decided what I’m baking this year, yet,” she said. “It’s probably a few. I did four last year.”

Once Upon a Pie Baking Competition and Pie Auction
When: Saturday, Nov. 23
Where: Goffstown High School, 27 Wallace Road, Goffstown
Entrants should bring their pies and a completed entry form to the high school cafeteria between 9:30 a.m. and noon. Pie sales and auctions will begin at 6 p.m. Winning pies in each category will be sold to the highest bidder. Entry is $3 per person.
Entry forms are available from the Goffstown Public Library Foundation at gplnhfoundation.org.

Featured Photo: Courtesy photo.

Let them make the turkey

Where to dine out on Thanksgiving

Have your Thanksgiving dinner at a table you don’t have to clear with dishes you don’t have to do. Here are some restaurants offering dine-in meals on Thanksgiving Day (Thursday, Nov. 28).

Alan’s of Boscawen (133 N. Main St., Boscawen, 753-6631, alansofboscawen.com) is taking reservations for your choice of a traditional Thanksgiving dinner or buffet on Thanksgiving, from 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Dinner includes turkey, stuffing, fresh yams, mashed potatoes and gravy, peas and onions, fresh butternut squash, soup or salad, rolls, cranberry sauce and your choice of dessert. Call for reservations.

Backyard Brewery & Kitchen (1211 S. Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-3545, backyardbrewerynh.com) will be serving its full menu from 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. as well as turkey dinner with all the trimmings, which is $24.95 and comes with a salad. The last seating will be at 4 p.m. Call to reserve a table.

Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will be serving dinner from noon to 6 p.m. in their dining room on Thanksgiving Day. A four-course prix fixe meal will be served, with appetizers like Cape Cod oysters, entrees such as Misty Knoll Farms Turkey, grilled filet mignon and squash risotto, and pumpkin bread pudding and bourbon poached pear among the dessert options. The cost is $125 per adult and $75 per child 12 years old or younger. Trattoria Fondi will be open for breakfast from 8 to 10:30 a.m. and will be open for dinner from 4 to 9 p.m. serving its Fondi menu. Reserve online.

• Join the Belmont Hall and Restaurant (718 Grove St., Manchester, 625-8540, belmonthall. net) dining room for a plated turkey dinner. Reservations are required for the function hall with seatings at 11:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. (parties of five or more only) with an all-you-can-eat buffet and a fully stocked cash bar. Adults $23.99, children 3-8 $18.99, kids 3 and under free. A $40 deposit is required to reserve your eating time.

• The Coach Stop Restaurant & Tavern (176 Mammoth Road, Londonderry, 437-2022, coachstopnh.com) is taking reservations for Thanksgiving Day with seatings at noon and 3 p.m. Entree options are roast turkey dinner, baked Virginia ham, slow roasted prime rib, baked stuffed haddock, seafood linguine and veal Oscar. All entrees are $42 and are served with turkey soup, apple cider, mashed potato, homemade bread stuffing, yams, cranberry sauce, butternut squash, baby pearl onions and green peas, hot rolls, sweet bread, homemade pie and coffee.

• Make your reservation at The Centennial Hotel and Granite Restaurant & Bar (96 Pleasant St., Concord, 227-9005, graniterestaurant.com) for Thanksgiving Day. The cost is $39.95 per person for adults, $29.95 for seniors and $16.95 for children under 12. Reservations can be made online, or at 227-9000, ext. 602.

• The Derryfield Restaurant (625 Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-2880, thederryfield.com) has seatings at 11 a.m., noon, 1:15 p.m., 2:15 p.m., 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. for a family-style turkey dinner with a turkey, stuffing, gravy, butternut squash, mixed vegetables, salad and dinner rolls (four-person minimum, or a plated turkey meal that is $29.95 for adults and $19.95 for children under 12. Reservations are required. Call for reservations. Credit card required to hold reservation.

Epoch Gastropub (90 Front St., Exeter, 778-3762, epochrestaurant.com) is open for in-person dining from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. with soups, salads and starters. Entrees include pumpkin butternut squash ravioli, maple soy salmon, traditional roast turkey and brown sugar ginger-crusted pork loin with sides such as brioche bread stuffing and spiced roasted baby carrots. Dessert options are pies, cakes and pastries, pecan caramel bread pudding as well as coffee, mulled cider, hot chocolate or tea. $69 for adults, $27 for children 6 to 12 and free for children under 5 years old.

Fratello’s Italian Grille (115 Dow St., Manchester, 641-6676, fratellos.com) is taking reservations for Thanksgiving with seatings at 11:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m., serving turkey with pan gravy, slow roasted prime rib au jus, turkey pot pie, Tuscan salmon, vegetable gnocchi, homemade stuffing, pumpkin bisque, garden salad, assorted pies, treats, coffee, tea and cider and more. The cost is $45 for adults, $18.95 for children 4 to 11 and free for children under 3.

Gauchos Churrascaria Brazilian Steak House (62 Lowell St., Manchester, 669-9460, gauchosbraziliansteakhouse.com) will serve a special Thanksgiving dinner from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. including turkey, steak tips, sirloin, pork loin and prime rib, with traditional Thanksgiving accompaniments. The cost per adult is $49.99, and children 6 to 10 are $19.99 each. Reserve a table online.

The Homestead Tavern and Restaurant (1567 Summer St., Bristol, 744-2022; 641 DW Highway, Merrimack, 429-2022, homesteadnh.com) has seatings at noon, 12:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. for Thanksgiving dinner. On the menu is roast turkey dinner for $36, baked Virginia ham for $36, roast prime rib of beef for $42, baked stuffed haddock for $37, veal Oscar $42, fresh broiled salmon for $39, or seafood fettuccine for $35. Each comes with turkey soup, apple cider, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, butternut squash, hot rolls and sweet bread and homemade pie. Children’s meals (ham, turkey, prime rib, bowtie alfredo or chicken fingers and french fries) are $18.

• Thanksgiving entrees at The Old Salt (490 Lafayette Road, Hampton, 926-8322, oldsaltnh.com) are oven-roasted turkey with sides like cranberry stuffing and mashed potatoes for $28.99, honey-glazed baked ham for $27.99, roasted butternut squash ravioli for $26.99, slow roasted prime rib au jus for $34.99, baked seafood pie for $38.99 and surf and turf for $39.99. Soups and salads are also on the menu, as are appetizers such as shrimp cocktails and a charcuterie board. Desserts include pumpkin pie, pecan pie, Tahitian cheesecake, apple pie, bread pudding and apple crisp, each for $12.99.

Red Arrow Diner (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 149 DW Highway, Nashua, 204-5088, redarrowdiner.com) is open during their regular hours on Thanksgiving serving turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, carrots and squash for $17.99.

Roundabout Diner (580 Route 1 Bypass, Portsmouth, 431-1440, roundaboutdiner.com) is taking reservations from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Thanksgiving for their plated family-style Thanksgiving meal with slow roasted turkey, cornbread stuffing, butternut squash, mashed potatoes, cranberry relish, peas and pearl onions, dinner rolls, homemade gravy, cinnamon apple sauce and homemade dessert. Adults are $29.95 and kids under 12 are $15.95.

Temple Street Diner (200 Temple St., Nashua, 521-7133) is open Thanksgiving Day from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. serving breakfast all day, their full regular menu and Thanksgiving dinner with all the sides and dessert. Reservations are being taken for parties of five or more. Regular parties are first come, first served.

Ya Mas Greek Taverna & Bar (275 Rockingham Park Blvd., Salem, 635-4230, yamasnh.com) will serve a traditional Thanksgiving dinner from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. All items will be served family style. The cost is $49 each for adults, $25 for children under 12. Purchase tickets through Eventbrite.com. Ticket includes reservation and $25 deposit. No cancellation 72 hours prior to event. Call the restaurant with any special requests.

The Weekly Dish 24/11/21

News from the local food scene

Wine for the holidays: WineNot Boutique (25 Main St., Nashua, 204-5569, winenotboutique.com) will host a special wine tasting, “Wine Your Way to a Perfect Thanksgiving,” on Thursday, Nov. 21, from 4 to 7:30 p.m. Three wine experts will pour 15 carefully selected wines that will complement holiday dishes. From well-known classics to hidden gems from boutique producers, each wine has been hand-selected by Svetlana Yanushkevich, DWS — professional sommelier, wine educator, and owner of the award-winning WineNot Boutique. There will be three one-hour seatings. Tickets are $20 each, available from eventbrite.com.

Breaking bread together: The Turkish Cultural Center (40 S. River Road, Unit 57, Bedford, 621-0620, tccnh.org) will host an early Thanksgiving dinner, Friday, Nov. 22, at 6 p.m. at 4 Church St. in Bedford. Guests will gather together around the table to celebrate gratitude, community and the joy of sharing a warm meal together. RSVP at facebook.com/TCCNH.

S’More wine? Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, 244-3165, averillhousevineyard.com) is offering a special S’Mores Board event this weekend, Friday, Nov. 22, Saturday, Nov. 23, and Sunday, Nov. 24. Relish a variety of flavors as you gather around your own s’mores heater with toasted marshmallows, graham crackers, cookies and rich, melting chocolate. Teenagers age 13 to 20 are welcome in the tasting room without an additional fee, while younger kids and pets can enjoy the gazebo or fire tower. Tickets are $20 each through eventbrite.com. Potato chip and wine pairings are also available for $27.

Learning about tea: Reserve your space now for a tea tasting and lecture at The Cozy Tea Cart (104A Route 13, Brookline, 249-9111, thecozyteacart.com) Saturday, Dec. 7, from 10:30 a.m. to noon. Learn to cup a selection of four teas using professional cupping sets. Learn about the processing and harvesting of tea, including the differences between each tea type. Also discussed will be topics such as caffeine content, how to prepare loose-leaf tea, the differences between loose tea and tea-bag tea, and more. The teas will be chosen the morning of the tasting. Registrations are required at least two weeks in advance. The cost is $30 per person.

Cablegram

My child texted me from college: “Thank you.” I really couldn’t remember what I had done to be thanked, so I replied, “I live to serve.”

A moment later, the response came: “No you don’t, but I admire your dedication.”

I texted back: “It WAS a good dedication, wasn’t it?”

“What are you even talking about?”

“You know — the big speech the mayor gave before the ribbon-cutting? I really appreciated that he wore his ceremonial sash and sword.”

“That never happened.”

“And the brass band playing ‘Livin’ La Vida Loca.’ I’ll remember the tuba solo as long as I live.”

“I’m not listening anymore.”

“I mean, I could have lived without having the mayor’s wife smash that bottle of champagne against me, but you can’t have everything….”

“I have to get to class.”

“And then, the Poet Laureate. At least she had the decency to read a filthy limerick.”

“There are days when I really hope that I was adopted.”

“I love you and I’m proud of you.”

“I love you, too.”

The Cablegram

This tall drink is extremely old, as mixed drinks go. It dates back to at least 1908, a time before texts, when fathers had to torture their children in person or via telegram.

2 ounces whiskey – I used Natterjack Irish whiskey for this, and I have no regrets

¾ ounces fresh squeezed lemon juice

½ ounces simple syrup

3 to 4 ounces ginger beer

Add whiskey, lemon juice, and simple syrup over ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake enthusiastically.

Strain over fresh ice in a highball glass, and top with ginger beer.

Stir and drink with a straw, while listening to “Ain’t No Sunshine When She’s Gone” by Bill Withers. Keep score with hashmarks on a pad of paper to see how many of these cocktails it takes before you sing along, loudly and unapologetically. My prediction is two.

Then switch to “Long, Long Time” by Linda Ronstadt. You’ll last half of another before singing with her, then start sending annoying texts to your child at college.

Whiskey and ginger ale are a classic combination. Really good whiskey and ginger beer, even more so. Lemon is a social butterfly who gets along with almost everyone. As a tall drink, the whiskey plays around with your expectations here. There is no burning, attention-grabbing — only a gentle encouragement to have another sip.

Featured Photo: The Cablegram. Photo by John Fladd.

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