Category: Food

Butterscotch Drops

It was 1950. The war was over, the economy was booming New suburbs were springing up all over the country, and with them modern kitchens.

The Betty Crocker Cookbook circa 1950 was a sort of guidebook for America’s new generation of cooks. It taught readers the basics of middle-class cooking and introduced home cooks to new ideas. This is one of them.

Butterscotch Drops with Brown Butter Icing

  • 8 Tablespoons (1 stick) room-temperature butter
  • 1½ cup (320 grams) dark brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup (227 grams) sour cream
  • 1 Tablespoon Scotch whisky – I used Glenlivet (Betty suggested “vanilla”, but I can read between the lines)
  • 2¾ cups (330 grams) all-purpose flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt

In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients — flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Set aside.

In a stand mixer, or with a hand mixer, cream the butter and brown sugar together. If you have a robust stand mixer, and you forget to leave the butter on your counter to soften, your mixer will have your back; it will power through and cream everything. It will just take a little longer.

Beat in the eggs, one at a time. This should pull the mixture together into a consistent batter. Eggs are what is called an emulsifier: They make it easy for fatty ingredients to mix with everything else.

Add the scotch and sour cream, and mix to combine.

Mix in the dry ingredients. To avoid a cloud of flour poofing up out of the mixer, try spooning it in a couple of tablespoons at a time.

When everything is well-mixed, chill the dough for a couple hours or, ideally, overnight. I just leave it in the mixing bowl, cover it with a dollar store shower cap, and put it in the refrigerator to rest.

Later (imagine a harp-music montage), preheat your oven to 425°F.

Scoop “rounded teaspoonfuls” of batter onto either a lightly oiled baking sheet or one with a silicone mat or a sheet of parchment paper. Leave 2 inches between dough blobs. I found it difficult to make nice little teaspoon-sized dough balls; I used two teaspoons (like you actually use for tea) and used them to scoop up some wet dough and deposit it on the cookie sheet.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. They will be ready when they are very slightly brown and if you touch one you won’t leave an impression of your finger. When you remove them from the oven, let them cool on the baking sheet.

This makes about four dozen cookies. Apparently in the 1950s they didn’t take a half-hearted approach to baking.

“Burnt Butter” Butterscotch Icing

  • 12 Tablespoons (1½ sticks) butter
  • 3 cups (342 grams) powdered sugar
  • 3 Tablespoons Scotch whisky

In a small saucepan, melt, then brown the butter over low heat. If you haven’t done this before, it is easy-peasy, but you have to watch it like a hawk. Swish the melted butter around in the pan frequently, and pull it from the heat just before it is brown like dark toast.

Combine the butter, powdered sugar and whisky, and stir until it forms an icing. If it is too stiff, add a tablespoon or so of water, but be very conservative about adding it. Use this to ice the cookies.

It might seem weird to use Scotch whisky in a cookie recipe, but butterscotch tastes extra intense and very, very good when you make it with real butter and real scotch. By themselves, the cookies have a delicate brown sugar flavor, a bit like the background flavor of a chocolate chip cookie, but when combined with the scotchy icing they become a flavor powerhouse.

Featured photo: Butterscotch Drops with Brown Butter Icing. Photo by John Fladd.

Last meal of 2023

Ring in the new year with dinner, parties, Champagne and more

New Year’s Eve reservations fill up fast, so make those plans for dining on Sunday, Dec. 31, early. Here are a few of the places offering special eats. Know of a restaurant with a New Year’s Eve seating? Let us know at mblanchard@hippopress.com; check next week’s Weekly Dish for updates.

• 815 Cocktails and Provisions (815 Elm St., Manchester, 815nh.com, 782-8086) hosts a futuristic sci-fi themed New Year’s Eve party with music, dancing, prizes, a photo booth, an open bar menu and small appetizers. General admission tickets are $120 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

• Alan’s Restaurant (133 N Main St., Boscawen, 753-6631, alansofboscawen.com) hosts a New Year’s Eve party starting at 8 p.m. Call for reservations and tickets.

• Welcome the new year at Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, averillhousevineyard.com, 244-3165) with a wine pairing and five-course Brazilian dinner. Doors open at 6:30 p.m. for a guided tour of the vineyard production room and wine cellar, and dinner will be served at 7 p.m. Get your tickets at exploretock.com.

• Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will serve a four-course prix fixe dinner. Seating times are 5:30 p.m. through 9:30 p.m. and the cost is $110 per adult. Make your reservation on their website.

• Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, buckleysgreasteaks.com, 424-0995) is taking reservations for New Year’s Eve.

• Celebrate the new year and the 11th anniversary of Cask & Vine (1 1 /2 E. Broadway, Derry, caskandvine.com, 965-3454) during their New Year’s Eve pajama party starting at 5 p.m. An a la carte menu will be available with their usual draft list, cocktails and wine. Visit their website.

• CJ’s Great West Grill (782 S. Willow St., Manchester, 627-8600, cjsgreatwewstgrille.com) will close at 10 p.m.

• Colby Hill Inn (33 The Oaks, Henniker, 428-2581, colbyhillinn.com) holds a Chef’s Sparkling New Year’s Eve Wine Dinner featuring five courseds from 7 to 10:30 p.m. on New Year’s Eve. Courses four and five must be pre-selected upon making a reservation or one week in advance.

• Copper Door (15 Leavy Drive, Bedford, 488-2677, copperdoor.com)is accepting reservations until 9 p.m. and will be open until 11 p.m.

• Epoch Gastropub (90 Front St., Exeter, 778-3762, epochrestaurant.com) will serve dinner from 5 to 10 p.m.

• Firefly Bistro & Bar (22 Concord St., Manchester, fireflynh.com, 95-9740) is serving brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. Visit their website to make reservations.

• The Foundry Restaurant (50 Commercial St., Manchester, foundrynh.com, 836-1925) will be open from 9 a.m. to noon New Year’s Eve, and will be open for dinner service New Year’s Day from 4 to 9 p.m.

• Fratello’s Italian Grille’s(799 Union Ave., Laconia, 528-2022; 155 Dow St., Manchester, 624-2022; fratellos.com) New Year’s Eve menu includes antipasti, like seafood-stuffed mushrooms and Sicilian sausage soup, salads and entrees like roast prime rib, seafood fettuccine, grilled dill salmon and more.

• Friendly Red’s Tavern (22 Haverhill Road, Route 111, Windham, 437-7251; 111 W Broadway, Derry, 404-6606, friendlyredstavern.net) will be open during its normal hours.

• Greenleaf (54 Nashua St., Milford, greenleafmilford.com, 213-5447) is serving a four-course meal with seatings at 5, 6 , 7 and 8 p.m. For the first course, coriander sumac-crusted tuna with parsnip, charred leek, blood orange and pancetta jam and mizuna will be served, followed by cavatelli, duck confit with mushroom, celeriac, truffle and quail egg. The third course consists of beef wellington, sweet potato, red cabbage and charred shallot marrow jus, and caramelized banana mousse, fig, chocolate, caramel and pistachio for dessert. Reservations are required and can be made online.

• LaBelle Winery in Derry (14 Route 111, labellewinery.com, 672-9898) will celebrate the new year from 6 to 10:30 p.m. with a three-course dinner, live music and a stroll through LaBelle lights. Tickets are $120 and can be purchased at labellewinery.com.

• Mike’s Italian Kitchen (212 Main St., Nashua, mikesitaliannh.com, 595-9334) is taking reservations for parties of any size.

• Mile Away Restaurant (52 Federal Hill Road, Milford, mileawayrestaurantnh.com, 673-3904) is taking reservations for New Year’s Eve. On the menu is scallops and lobster ravioli, boursin chicken en croute, grilled duck breast and more. Dessert options include chocolate mousse cake, lemon mascarpone, cheesecake and more. Call to make your reservation.

• New England Taphouse Grille (1292 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, taphouseNH.com, 782-5137) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

• The Peddler’s Daughter (48 Main St., Nashua, thepeddlersdaughter.com, 821-7535) will be open from 10 a.m. New Year’s Eve to 1 a.m. New Year’s Day.

• Pembroke Pines Country Club (45A Whittemore Road, Pembroke, pembrokepinescc.com, 210-1365) is hosting a New Year’s Eve celebration at 6:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. on Monday, Jan. 1, with dinner, drinks, dancing and entertainment from comedians. Tickets are $160 and can be purchased on eventbrite.com.

• Pizzico (7 Harold Drive, Nashua, 633-8993; 7 Continental Blvd., 424-1000, pizzicorestaurant.com) will be open regular hours, from noon to 9 p.m.

• Portsmouth Gas Light (64 Market St., Portsmouth, portsmouthgaslight.com, 430-8582) is having a New Year’s Eve winter wonderland party starting at 8 p.m. with passed hors d’oeuvres, Champagne and a buffet. VIP tickets include reserved seating and private food service. Make your reservations now online.

• Red Arrow Diner (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 149 Daniel Webster Hwy., Nashua, 204-5088, redarrowdiner.com) is open for its regular hours (Concord, Londonderry and Nashua open 5:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Manchester open 24 hours).

• Saddle Up Saloon (92 Route 125, Kingston, saddleupsaloonnh.com, 347-1313) hosts a New Year’s Eve party from 6 to 8 p.m. with a pizza buffet at midnight. Reservations can be made between 6 and 7 p.m. Dinner selections include prime rib, half roasted chicken and baked haddock, each with mashed potatoes and vegetables.

• The Shaskeen Pub and Restaurant (909 Elm St., Manchester, theshaskeenpub.com, 625-0246) will again host its New Year’s Eve Bash from 8 p.m. to 1 a.m. with a dinner buffet, Champagne toast and a DJ. Visit their Facebook page @TheShaskeenPubandRestaurant.

• The Side Bar’s(845 Lafayette Road, Hampton, thesidebarnh.com, 601-6311) New Year’s Eve party starts at 9 p.m. and includes drink specials and their full menu available until midnight. Tickets are $10 on eventbrite or $15 at the door.

• Surf (207 Main St., Nashua, 595-9293; 99 Bow St., Portsmouth, 334-9855, surfseafood.com) is taking reservations via phone.

• T-Bones (25 S. River Road, Bedford, 641-6100; 404 Main St., Concord; 39 Crystal Ave., Derry, 434-3200; 77 Lowell Road, Hudson, 882-6677; 1182 Union Ave., Laconia; 311 S. Broadway, Salem, greatnhrestaurants.com) will be open until 10 p.m.

• The Village Trestle (25 Main St., Goffstown, villagetrestle.com, 497-8230) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

The Weekly Dish 23/12/21

News from the local food scene

• Doughnut and wine pairing: One of Wine on Main’s (9 N. Main St., Concord) most popular events with NH Doughnut Co. returns on Wednesday, Jan. 24, and Thursday, Jan. 25, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. After enjoying three doughnuts paired with three wines, decorate two doughnuts of your own. Tickets are $30 and go on sale Monday, Jan. 4, for the first night.

• Blankets and brews: All Ways Art hosts a chunky blanket making class at Spyglass Brewing (306 Innovative Way, Nashua) on Thursday, Dec. 28, at 6 p.m. Each blanket will require five rolls of yarn, which will be provided with multiple color choices. By the end of the night you’ll have a full-size throw blanket. Tickets are $90 and include a beer. Visit allwaysart.com to purchase.

• Pot and sip: Also at Spyglass Brewing Co., Thursday, Dec. 28, will see The Knotted Finds hosting a DIY terrarium event from 6 to 8 p.m. Plants, rocks, moss and soil will all be provided. Each participant will receive a drink ticket for a beer. It is $35 to attend and you must be 21 years or older. Get tickets at theknottedfinds.com/events.

• Candles and wine: Enjoy wine and make 19 custom tealight candles in scents and colors of your choosing with Ross, owner of Candle Tree Soy Candles at Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord) on Tuesday, Jan. 9, and Wednesday, Jan. 10, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Tickets are $40 per person. Sign up at wineonmainnh.com.

Raspberry-Rose Rickey

It’s a pretty good party.

There is good jazz playing in the background — Louis Armstrong, and Tony Bennet, and Nina Simone, with a sprinkling of Sinatra. Good stuff, but not distracting, nothing that anyone will have a deep attachment to from high school. Nobody’s going to shout, “Hey! Crank that up!” and derail the vibe.

There’s a nice blend of guests — obligatory family members, and actual friends you want to spend time with. Interestingly, your college roommate has struck up a friendship with your Uncle Charley with the conspiracy theories. They’re both smiling and gesturing wildly, so they seem to have found some common ground.

You don’t have a fireplace, but there’s a Yule log burning on the TV screen, which also keeps your cousin from switching on the game.

Everyone has brought something for the Yankee swap. You’ve got a good feeling about this year. You spent all year combing flea markets and yard sales and finally scored a brass sculpture of an exotic dancer with a clock in her belly. She’s wrapped inconspicuously in plain brown paper with a tag that says, “Open me. Or not. It’s no skin off my nose either way.”

Dinner went well — tacos, so everybody got a little bit of what they wanted. There’s tres leches cake for dessert. It took a couple of years to convince the family to try it, but now it’s become a tradition. A couple of years ago a slightly inebriated cousin spent 15 minutes enthusiastically explaining tres leches to your friend Maria, who grew up in Chiapas.

“It’s like CAKE, but it’s uh, um —,” he said for the third time.

“Wet?” Maria suggested, with a small smile on her face.

“YES! It’s CAKE but it’s WET!” he half-shouted enthusiastically.

“And cold?” Maria suggested again.

“AND COLD!!!” he agreed, beaming at Maria, filled with goodwill and Budweiser, then staggered off to find a couch.

You have three or four children at the party this year and they are so full of tacos and cake that if it weren’t for the promise of presents they’d have fallen asleep by now.

Your mother and her sister are getting along tonight. It’s always a toss-up whether they will get along, or end up looking at old family photos, which will remind them of some half-forgotten grudge from the 1970s, and releasing the Drama Kraken.

All in all, it’s a pretty good evening, as long as you keep topping off everyone’s glass. That’s why it’s a good idea to make batches of drinks ahead of time.

For instance:

  • Raspberry-Rose Rickey
  • 1 12-ounce package frozen raspberries
  • 1 cup floral gin – I used Uncle Van’s and was very pleased
  • ½ cup sugar
  • ½ cup fresh squeezed lime juice – about 4 limes
  • ¼ teaspoon rose water
  • plain seltzer

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Stir to combine, and leave, covered, for an hour at room temperature.

Mash the contents with a potato masher, re-cover, and leave for another hour.

Stir, then strain with a fine-mesh strainer. You will not believe how many seeds raspberries have in them.

In a rocks glass with ice or crushed ice, fill with the raspberry-gin mixture, then top with seltzer. Stir.

Roses and berries have a natural affinity for each other. In this case, the background flavor of roses should add a woody/floral note that will meld with the floral gin. In turn, gin and lime are a classic combination, as are lime and raspberries. The four main ingredients chase each other around and around, tickling your palate.

This is a fairly low-octane, not-too-sweet drink that even your most suspicious relatives will accept. Your actual friends will probably love it.

It’s like RASPBERRIES, but WET, with ROSES dunked in it!

It’s time to find somewhere to sit.

Featured photo: Raspberry-Rose Rickey. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Tracy Fitts

Born and raised in New Hampshire, Tracy Fitts has had experience in the restaurant industry since she was 13 years old working at Golden Acres, a clam shack in Pinardville. Along the way she met Cyndee Williams, who went on to open White Birch Eatery in Goffstown. There Williams asked Fitts to join in, and she is now the executive chef and director of operations.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

There are so many tools, pieces of equipment and people that we need to do what we do. It’s all important. I will agree with a lot of the other chefs that a good-quality knife is needed.

What would you have for your last meal?

Anything from Mama Reykjavik in Iceland, an absolutely delicious vegan restaurant with an artsy hippie vibe and the nicest people.

What is your favorite local eatery?

Aside from White Birch — I truly do love coming here — I would say if I am taking a bit of a drive it would be Green Elephant in Portsmouth. For Manchester, it’s Restoration Cafe.

Name a celebrity you would like to see eating in your restaurant?

I wouldn’t mind seeing Lenny Kravitz sitting at my table, but honestly, nothing makes me happier than one of our customers telling me how much they enjoyed their meal. It’s why I do this and have done this for 30 years.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

Our vegan Reuben.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Restaurants offering alternative menus to include gluten-free and vegan options. It’s so great.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Noodle bowls, rice noodles, spicy broth or peanut sauce and lots of fresh veggies.

Warm Spinach Dip
From Tracy: This dip is a quick crowd-pleaser! All of the ingredients get stirred together and spread into a baking dish. The finishing touch is another layer of cheese. Bake your dip until it’s hot and melted, serve with bread, or tortilla or pita chips.

8 ounces cream cheese softened
1 cup sour cream
10 ounces fresh spinach leaves
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese (save 1/2 cup to sprinkle on the top at the end and melt in the oven)
1 Tablespoon chopped parsley
bread, crackers and vegetables for serving
cooking spray (spray your dish first to make clean-up easier)

The most important part of making this recipe is to be sure all of the water is removed from your spinach. You can squeeze the spinach between your fingers to remove the liquid, press it in a potato ricer, or wrap the spinach in a few layers of paper towels to wring out all the liquid. You can use frozen spinach or sauté fresh — just make sure to cool it and squeeze dry.

Bake at 350 for 25 to 30 minutes and remove and sprinkle the remaining cheese and place back in the oven for 10 minutes to melt.

Featured photo: Katie Pope of Confections by Kate. Courtesy photo.

Meal on the town

Where to eat on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day

Looking for someone else to cook a special holiday meal? Here are a few places serving up special eats. Did we miss a spot open on Christmas Eve or Christmas Day or serving a special holiday dish? Let us know at food@hippopress.com.

• Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) is hosting The Feast of the Seven Fishes on Thursday, Dec. 21, at 6 p.m. with hors d’oeuvres before a meal of three plated courses, all featuring fish, followed by Italian desserts like ricotta pie, cannolis, tiramisu, cookies and chocolate mousse.

• Through Saturday, Dec. 30, Colby Hill Inn (33 The Oaks, Henniker, 428-2581, colbyhillinn.com) will be serving its Chef’s Christmas Cheer Menu from 4 to 8:30 p.m.; it will be closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Entrees on the menu include pork wiener schnitzel with cucumber dill salad, sweet and sour red cabbage and french fries ($40), lobster and scallop pot pie with whipped potatoes and garlic confit ($54) and ricotta honeynut squash ravioli with broccoli rabe, chanterelle and black trumpet mushrooms and truffle butter ($40). Rum cake with coconut pineapple ice cream, peppermint panna cotta, apple strudel with whipped cream, an adult cookie tray and Black Forest cake are for dessert.

The Grazing Room will be serving beverages and food like bratwurst and apple strudel during the Winter Wonderland Barn Market on Saturday, Dec. 16, and Sunday, Dec. 17, with local craft food and art vendors. Also that Sunday is Christmas! High Tea at 12:30 p.m. with mimosas, Christmas treats, holiday cocktails and punch. It is $65 per person for this event.

Open Christmas Eve

• Airport Diner (2280 Brown Ave., Manchester, 623-5040, thecman.com)is open from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.

• Alan’s Restaurant (133 N. Main St., Boscawen, 753-6631, alansofboscawen.com) is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

• Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford, 472-2001, bedfordvillageinn.com) will serve a three-course prix fixe menu from 4:30 to 8:30 p.m. in the dining room followed by a dessert buffet and cash bar at the Great Hall. Dinner will also be served at Fondi from 4 to 8 p.m. as well as breakfast from 8 to 10:30 a.m.

• Buckley’s Great Steaks (438 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, buckleysgreasteaks.com, 424-0995) is taking reservations for Christmas Eve.

• Chez Vachon (136 Kelley St., Manchester, 625-9660, chezvachon.com) will be open regular hours.

• CJ’s Great West Grill (782 S. Willow St., Manchester, 627-8600, cjsgreatwewstgrille.com) will be open until 5 p.m.

• The Common Man (Lago, 1 Route 25, Meredith, 279-2253; Camp, 298 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-3003; Lakehouse, 281 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-5221; 60 Main St., Ashland, 968-7030; 10 Pollard Road, Lincoln, 745-3463; 88 Range Road, Windham, 898-0088; 1 Gulf St., Concord, 228-3463; 304 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack, 429-3463; 21 Water St., Claremont, 542-6171; 231 Main St., Plymouth, 536-2764; Route 104 Diner, 752 Route 104, New Hampton, 744-0120; 61 Laconia Road, Tilton, 286-2204; 2280 Brown Ave., Manchester, 623-5040; thecman.com) is open for dining on Christmas Eve from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. at their Lakehouse, Meredith, location, and from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Ashland, Concord and Merrimack; Route 104 Diner in New Hamptonis open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

• Copper Door (15 Leavy Drive, Bedford, 488-2677, copperdoor.com)is accepting reservations until 8 p.m. and will be open until 10 p.m.

• CR’s The Restaurant (287 Exeter Road, Hampton, 929-7972, crstherestaurant.com) is taking reservations for Christmas Eve dinner from 4 to 8:30 p.m.

• The Derryfield Restaurant (625 Mammoth Road, Manchester, 623-2880, thederryfield.com) will be open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

• Epoch Gastropub (90 Front St., Exeter, 778-3762, epochrestaurant.com) is open for Christmas Eve brunch from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

• The Farm Bar and Grille (1181 Elm St., Manchester, 641-3276) is open from noon to 4 p.m. Reservations are highly recommended.

• Foster’s Boiler Room (231 Main St., Plymouth, 536-2764, thecman.com) is open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

• Fratello’s Italian Grille (799 Union Ave., Laconia, 528-2022; 155 Dow St., Manchester, 624-2022, fratellos.com) will be open until 8 p.m.

• Friendly Red’s Tavern (22 Haverhill Road, Route 111, Windham, 437-7251; 111 W Broadway, Derry, 404-6606, friendlyredstavern.net) is open until 8 p.m.

• Lakehouse Grille (281 Daneil Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-5221, thecman.com/lakehouse-grille) is open from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

• Pasta Loft Restaurant & Brewing Co. (241 Union Sq., 627-2270, pastaloft.com) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

• Red Arrow Diner (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 149 Daniel Webster Hwy., Nashua, 204-5088, redarrowdiner.com) is open for its regular hours on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Concord, 5:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Londonderry, 5:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Manchester open 24 hours; Nashua 5:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.)

• Surf (207 Main St., Nashua, 595-9293; 99 Bow St., Portsmouth, 334-9855, surfseafood.com) is taking reservations via phone.

• T-Bones (25 S. River Road, Bedford, 641-6100; 404 Main St., Concord; 39 Crystal Ave., Derry, 434-3200; 77 Lowell Road, Hudson, 882-6677; 1182 Union Ave., Laconia; 311 S Broadway, Salem, greatnhrestaurants.com) closes at 5 p.m. on Christmas Eve at each location.

• Lobster ravioli, salmon, maple sausage pizza and more will be served at Wild Rose Restaurant (3351 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway, thewhileroseresaturant.com, 356-3113) on Christmas Eve from 5 to 8 p.m. Visit their website to make your reservation.

• 900 Degrees (Dow St., Manchester, 641-0900, 900degrees.com) will be open from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. They will be open until 6 p.m. for gift card sales.

Open Christmas Day

• Airport Diner (112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 149 Daniel Webster Hwy, Nashua, 204-5088, redarrowdiner.com) is open regular hours on Christmas Day at each location and will be offering a turkey dinner for $18.99.

• Lakehouse Grille (281 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith, 279-5221, thecman.com/lakehouse-grille) will be open for breakfast from 7:30 to 10 a.m. and for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. with a special Christmas menu.

• Salt Kitchen and Bar (Wentworth by the Sea, 588 Wentworth Road, New Castle, 422-7322, opalcollection.com) will have a brunchfrom 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the Wentworth Ballroom with smoothies, a Belgian waffle station and a carving station. Seats are $89.95 and $26.95 for children under 12 years old.

They will also have Christmas dinner from 1 to 10 p.m. with sliced prime beef tenderloin, Scottish salmon, sous vide pork chop and coq au vin chicken. Seats are $69.95 and $26.95 for children under 12 years old. Visit their website to make reservations.

An Italian Christmas

Bedford Village Inn hosts Feast of the Seven Fishes

The halls are decked at Bedford Village Inn with garlands, decor and an upside-down lighted Christmas tree suspended 30 feet high from the ceiling in the Great Hall, where the Inn will host the Feast of the Seven Fishes, an Italian-American celebration, on Thursday, Dec. 21.

“When you enter for the Feast of the Seven Fishes, which is traditionally held on Christmas Eve … [you’re] greeted by … beautiful holiday decor,” said Melissa Samaras, the sales and marketing director at the Bedford Village Inn. “There’s courses all including fish that go out into an extended over-indulgent evening of incredible wine and cuisine that is very heavily focused on fish.”

While the Feast of the Seven Fishes is not an official tradition or term, and its true origins are not known, eating fish on Christmas Eve could stem from the Roman Catholic tradition of abstaining from eating meat other than fish before communion, according to a post by Brian Trembath on the Denver Public Library website. Sydney Dominick, writing for the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, says the tradition comes from Italian immigrants who came to America during the 20th century.

“As the guests are seated for dinner, each course is going to be accompanied with a wine pairing that will complement each item being served,” Samaras said. “We change the menu [but] it kind of follows the same prototype in a sense. [There are] certain things you always want to include.”

The evening starts with a cocktail hour with passed and stationary hors d’oeuvres such as shrimp cocktail with bloody mary cocktail sauce and lemon, oysters on the half shell with Champagne citrus mignonette, and smoked trout crostini with chives. As per tradition, hors d’oeuvres are followed by a salad, which will be a grilled calamari salad with pickled vegetables, radicchio and arugula. The second course is spaghetti with clam sauce and parsley, followed by the third course of cod puttanesca with herb-roasted Yukon potatoes and green beans with garlic and almonds. Dessert includes assorted cannolis, tiramisu cups, ricotta pie, chocolate mousse and Italian cookies.

“People can vary as to what they offer,” Samaras said. “You don’t have to stick to any course options; they just have to be fish-focused.”

Italian cuisine is special to Jack Carnevale, the owner of Bedford Village Inn.

“[It] goes back to [his] Italian roots. [He] just really [loves to celebrate] and bring that focus and those memories from his childhood…,” Samaras said. “This celebration … is near and dear to him and he wanted to create the event here to share with everyone else. … It’s really special for us to be able to extend those kinds of celebrations here….”

Feast of the Seven Fishes
When: Thursday, Dec. 21, 6 p.m.
Where: Great Hall at Bedford Village Inn, 2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford

Featured photo: Torre di Fruitti di Mare. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 23/12/14

News from the local food scene

• New Thai eatery in Plaistow: After construction-related delays in the summer, the family-owned SaNouk’s Local Thai Eatery has opened at 5 Plaistow Road in Plaistow, offering various curries and stir-fries; “appethaizers” such as spring rolls, summer rolls, fried dumplings and crab rangoons; and other dishes. SaNouk’s is open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Visit sanouks.com.

• Free wine tasting: Ambra from Crush Distributors will be at Wine on Main (9 N Main St., Concord) on Saturday, Dec. 16, from 1 to 4 p.m. with different wines from all around the world. Stop by for free samples and to purchase.

• Sip and plant: Create your own miniature ecosystem with The Knotted Finds at Spyglass Brewing Co. (36 Innovative Way, Nashua) on Thursday, Dec. 28, at 6 p.m. All materials and supplies will be provided as you are guided through the process of creating your own terrarium with three plants, rocks, moss, sand and soil. Each participant will receive a drink ticket for a glass of beer to enjoy during the process. It is $35 to attend and you must be 21 years or older. Get your tickets at theknottedfinds.com/events.

• Blankets and beer: Make a blanket and enjoy a beer with Jill from The Cozy Co. at Pipe Dream Brewing (49 Harvey Road) on Saturday, Dec. 16, from 1 to 4 p.m. Tickets are $115 and include materials, the class and a pint of beer. Visit pipedreambrewingnh.com.

• New Year’s Eve party: Ring in the new year at LaBelle Winery in Derry (14 Route 111) from 6 to 10:30 p.m. with a three-course dinner, music by the Freese Brothers Big Band, dancing and a stroll through LaBelle Lights. The first course is crab rangoon, followed by sake-braised short rib and black sesame profiterole. The vegetarian dinner option includes vegetable rangoon and soba noodle bowl. Tickets are $120 and can be purchased at labellewinery.com.

• Candles and wine: Enjoy wine and make 19 custom tealight candles in the scents and colors of your choice with Ross, owner of Candle Tree Soy Candles at Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord) on Tuesday, Jan. 9, and Wednesday, Jan. 10, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Tickets are $40 per person. Sign up at wineonmainnh.com.

Gingerbread

Gingerbread is strange.

Not the actual gingerbread itself but what people do with it. I can’t think of any baked good that people insist on making other things out of. We don’t make little eclair men with mischievous smiles, or build chocolate chip houses or hang brownies on trees as ornaments.

A number of people claim that they don’t like gingerbread when they’ve mostly had it as a flavor of tea, or an ingredient in ice cream, or baked hard and served as a cookie. I won’t say that everybody loves warm, moist gingerbread fresh from the oven, because we all know that there are people in the world with questionable taste, but I do question whether people who don’t like proper gingerbread are entirely trustworthy.

Here is a recipe adapted from King Arthur (kingarthurbaking.com).

Gingerbread

Dry ingredients:

  • 2 cups (240 grams) whole-wheat flour
  • ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda – this will react with the acidic molasses and buttermilk
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1½ teaspoons ground ginger
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon nutmeg – it’s much better if you grind your own
  • ½ teaspoon ground cloves
  • ½ teaspoon black or cayenne pepper – Penzeys makes a blend called Black & Red that I like
  • ¾ cup (138 g) diced crystalized ginger

Wet ingredients:

  • 8 Tablespoons (one stick) butter, melted
  • ¾ cup (113 g) molasses
  • ¼ ginger beer – many recipes will call for cold, black coffee, but the extra kick of ginger brings more zing to the party
  • 1 egg
  • 1 cup (227) buttermilk

Preheat your oven to 350º. Line either a 9×9” or a 9×13” baking pan with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, combine all the dry ingredients.

In another bowl, combine all the wet ingredients.

Mix the contents of the two bowls together.

Pour into the prepped baking pan, then bake. If you are using a square baking pan, it will probably take 50 minutes or so to bake to the point where a toothpick comes out clean. The larger pan will probably take 30 to 35 minutes.

Let the gingerbread cool for half an hour before cutting and serving. It is excellent with whipped cream, vanilla ice cream or butter. If you are adventurous, try it smashed up in a bowl, topped with eggnog; you won’t be sorry.

Gingerbread is a cake that you don’t want to be too sweet. This version gets a little sweetness from the sugar, the crystalized ginger and the ginger beer, but mostly from the molasses. That adds a dark muskiness and a slightly bitter quality that complements the spices. This isn’t a celebration cake. It is a comfort cake to eat late in the afternoon, in the gathering dark, as the snow starts to fall. Eating it will bring a cat to sit in your lap, even if you don’t own a cat.

Featured photo: Gingerbread. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Katie Pope

While Boscawen resident Katie Pope has always liked to bake and experiment in the kitchen, she didn’t originally plan on starting her own bakery. The idea was planted in her mind after she made a unicorn cake for her daughter’s birthday party and one of the moms asked her how much she charged. The idea was put into practice about five years later with the creation of Confections by Kate during the pandemic, after she experienced burnout in the health care field, as a way to support her family. She also makes cupcakes, macarons, cake pops, truffles and cookies and holds cookie decorating classes. Her goal is to open her own brick and mortar location in Boscawen with live music, local art and plants.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A dishwasher! I spent way too many years being the dishwasher [and] I don’t think I could live without it now.

What would you have for your last meal?

Hands down the macaroni and cheese from Arms by Abbey in Worcester, Massachusetts. If you know, you know.

What is your favorite local eatery?

SourJoes. Their pizza is amazing! I’m really loving the vodka pizza.

Name a celebrity you would like to see eating in your restaurant?

Matt Rife or Payton Pritchard.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

Sugar cookies. There are endless ways to decorate them, but I really like decorating the ones that challenge my creative abilities. You can turn a sugar cookie into just about anything, and I’m always up for a good challenge.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Definitely the food truck. My goal is to have my own within the next two years. I mean, who doesn’t like mobile sweets?

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

My favorite thing to cook at home is pineapple beef teriyaki boats. [They] consist of pineapple halves [with] the insides scraped out. The pineapple gets filled with the beef and homemade teriyaki sauce and topped with pineapple scrapings.

Brown Sugar Maple Cookies
From the kitchen of Katie Pope

2⅓ cups all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled)
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ cup salted butter
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 egg
⅓ cup pure New Hampshire maple syrup (we use Ice Mountain Maple’s syrup)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Maple icing:
1 Tablespoon salted butter
⅓ cup pure New Hampshire maple syrup
1 cup sifted confectioner’s sugar
pinch of salt, to taste

Over medium heat, brown butter in a small saucepan until there is a nutty aroma.
Remove from heat, let cool to room temperature.
Whisk flour and baking soda together in a medium mixing bowl. Set aside.
In a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream butter and brown sugar on medium speed until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Add egg and beat on high until well-combined, about 30 seconds.
Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl; add maple syrup and vanilla extract. Beat on high until well-combined.
Mix dry ingredients to the wet ingredients; mix on low until combined.
Cover dough and chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
Using a cookie scoop, scoop out and roll cookies. Place on baking sheet at least 1 inch apart. Bake for 12 to 13 minutes until lightly browned on the sides.
Cool cookies on baking sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack. Cool completely.

Make the icing: In a small saucepan over low heat, melt butter and maple syrup
together, whisking occasionally. Once butter is melted and well-combined, remove from heat and whisk in sifted powdered sugar. Add a pinch of salt and whisk well. Drizzle icing over cooled cookies. Icing sets in about an hour.
Note: Browned butter gives a nutty taste greatly enhancing the maple flavor. Cookies can be made without browning the butter, but I promise they aren’t nearly as delicious.

Featured photo: Katie Pope of Confections by Kate. Courtesy photo.

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