Alex Waddell of Hopkinton is the owner and pastry chef of Crémeux French Patisserie (707 Milford Road, Merrimack, cremeuxfrenchpatisserie.com), which opened in Pennichuck Square over the summer. Crémeux’s concept is modeled after that of a Parisian pastry shop, with a menu of macarons, eclairs, croissants, lemon honey tarts and other classic French pastries, in addition to freshly baked artisan breads, gourmet teas and coffee, and Belgian chocolates shipped from overseas. Originally from Florida, Waddell got his start working at The Grazing Room at the Colby Hill Inn in Henniker as a teenager. He went on to attend an intensive professional program in French pastry at Ferrandi, an internationally recognized culinary arts school in Paris, before later returning to New Hampshire to open Crémeux with the help of his family.
What is your must-have kitchen item?
A bowl scraper, because it has so many uses in the kitchen. Honestly, it’s something that I can’t ever see myself not having.
What would you have for your last meal?
It would probably have to be my grandmother’s orange duck. She really influenced me as a kid with her French cooking, and I remember her orange duck was so killer. It was definitely one of my favorite things to eat.
What is your favorite local restaurant?
Mint Bistro in Manchester. I love to go there for the sushi, but they do a lot of other dishes really well. It’s a really good restaurant to go out to on a Saturday night.
What celebrity would you like to see trying something in your shop?
I would say Gordon Ramsay. I’m confident enough that he would like my pastries.
What is your favorite thing on your menu?
We do a version of a croissant that I love that’s called Kouign-amann [pronounced “queen-a-mahn”]. … It’s made with croissant dough that’s caramelized on the outside … and has a gooey, buttery center. It’s a traditional pastry from the Brittany region of France.
What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?
Farm-to-table cuisine is big right now. People are trying to go more local with food, and there are definitely a lot more farm-to-table places popping up.
What is your favorite thing to cook or bake at home?
During the Christmas season, there’s one dish that I absolutely love making, called porchetta. It’s basically a big slab of pork belly with a bunch of aromatic herbs put in.
Dark chocolate crémeux
Courtesy of Alex Waddell of Crémeux French Patisserie in Merrimack
500 grams (about 2 cups) heavy cream
500 grams (about 2 cups) milk
120 grams (about ½ cup) sugar
360 grams egg yolks (18 egg yolks)
400 grams (about 2 cups) 64-percent dark chocolate
If using an electronic scale, weigh the chocolate, then chop into small chunks. Add the chocolate to a medium-sized mixing bowl and set aside. Weigh milk and heavy cream together in a small saucepan and set aside.
Separate your eggs and add into a medium mixing bowl. Once the yolks have been separated, measure the sugar directly on top of the yolks and whisk quickly until homogenous. Place the milk and cream mixture on a burner set to medium-high heat. Using a rubber spatula, stir occasionally to prevent scorching the milk and cream. Remove from the heat once a very weak simmer has developed. Pour half of the heated milk and cream mixture over the yolk and sugar mixture, being sure to whisk quickly.
Once half of the milk and cream mixture has been poured out over the eggs, return all ingredients to the saucepan. Setting the heat to low, use the rubber spatula to stir in a figure eight motion, constantly scraping the bottom of the saucepan. Slowly bring the mixture up to exactly 82 degrees Celsius (or 180 degrees Fahrenheit). Once temperature has been reached, pour the mixture over the chopped chocolate.
Let it sit for two minutes before mixing with an emulsion blender until smooth. Place plastic wrap over the top (be sure it’s touching the mixture with zero air pockets) and set overnight in the refrigerator to set.
Featured Photo: Alex Waddell