Zen and the art of Grape-Nuts

By John Fladd

Grape-Nuts and Raisin Pie, from the 1932 General Foods Cookbook

¾ cup (100 g) Grape-Nuts cereal

¾ cup (128 g) golden raisins, chopped

¾ cup (160 g) brown sugar

2¼ cup (510 g) hot water

¼ cup (57 g) apple cider vinegar

3 Tablespoons butter

Dough for a two-crust pie (see below)

Combine the Grape-Nuts, raisins, brown sugar, water, vinegar and butter in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. As you do this, the mixture will seem far too soupy and thin to ever be a self-respecting pie filling.

The thing is, the raisins and Grape-Nuts, deep in their hearts, feel a little self-conscious. The raisins remember their grapey background and realize intellectually that they could take back all the liquid they gave up in their youth, but they feel hesitant to relax completely and suck up all this fluid. The Grape-Nuts are ever so dry and know that they too have the theoretical ability to suck up all this fluid but are bashful about it at first.

So here is what you as the Pie Facilitator will do: Take the soupy, syrupy mixture off the heat and set it somewhere to cool completely. This might take an hour or more. Because it will take a while to cool, the Grape-Nuts and the raisins will have time to relax in this syrupy hot tub and really hydrate deeply.

After the mixture has cooled for an hour or so, preheat the oven to 425°F and prepare the pie crust.

There is of course absolutely nothing wrong with using a store-bought pre-made crust. If, on the other hand, you feel up to making it, an all-butter crust will add to the flavor of the finished pie. Perfecting your own personal crust-making technique can be a long and spiritual endeavor that deserves its own discussion, but here’s one tip that has helped me greatly: freeze the butter, then grate it into the flour, to help bump up the crust’s flakiness.

At this point your pie filling might be cool. If so, pour it into the bottom pie crust, then weave the strips of dough into a lattice top. This is way easier than it looks. If you don’t know how to do it, look it up online. It’s one of those tricks that everyone wants to show off as soon as they’ve learned it, so there are a million how-to videos that will show you what to do.

Bake the pie at 425°F for 10 to 12 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F and bake it for another 35 minutes or so, then remove it from the oven and allow it to cool completely before serving it.

You’d think that without an egg or some other binder the filling would be too loose, hydration hot tub or no, but it sets up really well. The flavor is gently fruity; the shot of vinegar has rounded out the dried fruit sweetness and given it the very subtlest tang. The interesting thing here, though, is the apparent absence of the Grape-Nuts. It seems that upon giving itself up to relaxation and hydration, the cereal has become one with the pie. Has the Grape-Nuts spread its essence, or more specifically its protein filaments, throughout the filling, pulling it together texturally? It’s a good bet.

Regardless, the Grape-Nuts, formerly the gravel of the cereal world, has, against all odds, achieved a Buddhist ideal, releasing its identity to become with the Universe. Or in this case a pie filling., then strain the syrup. This will last for a week or two in your refrigerator.

Featured Image: Grape-Nuts and Raisin Pie. Photo by John Fladd.

Chicken and waffles on South Willow

The Halal Spot loads up on flavor

By John Fladd

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The Halal Spot in Manchester serves chicken and burgers, but with a twist. As its name suggests, the Halal Spot’s food is all halal; it meets stringent dietary guidelines.

The term “halal” refers to a set of dietary guidelines followed by Muslims, similar in many ways to Jewish kosher rules.

“Halal is the only meat that a Muslim person can eat,” owner Sip Woodod said. “The rules are that the animal must be raised in peace — not antagonized, not abused — in a safe environment and then put to sleep in a peaceful manner. This is a cultural tradition we’ve kept [as a family]. So we’re like, ‘If we’re eating it ourselves, it doesn’t matter where we are. This is the food we want to serve to the community’. And that’s been working for us.”

The menu focuses on a moderate number of items — a range of burgers and chicken sandwiches, with a few twists — chicken and waffles, for instance, and “Nashville Hot” chicken sandwiches. One menu item is the Loaded Fries, a potato-based take on nachos. French fries are topped with extra crispy chicken tenders, nacho cheese and shredded cheese, topped with a house sauce and a sprinkling of spices.

“I don’t think new customers understand how loaded these really are,” Woodod said. “One bowl is enough to fill up a couple of people. It’s just something that grew up in our family’s restaurant kitchen over 11 years, just experimenting.”

Sip, his brother Kareem, and their sister Hannah grew up in restaurants. The Woodods started out in New York City — Queens, specifically — but moved to New Hampshire in 2012, where their father, Rajim, opened USA Chicken and Biscuit in downtown Manchester. As the years passed the family eventually opened three chicken restaurants. The Halal Spot is an opportunity for the second generation of Woodods to establish a food legacy of their own and to demystify halal food for their customers.

“Our goal is to keep a simple menu and create a beautiful brand that gives back to the community,” Woodod said. “We want to create a brand that we can potentially franchise and open in different neighborhoods and give that cultural feel of halal food.”

The concept of The Halal Spot and its name are based on the idea of comfort food and the street carts his family ate from in Queens, Woodod said.

“In New York when you think about halal food most people think of chicken or beef with rice and a white sauce on top. When we would want to eat that food, we wouldn’t say, ‘Let’s go eat halal food.’ We would say, ‘let’s go to The Spot.’ When we came here [to New Hampshire], we just stuck with it. That’s where we got our menu and what inspired the name.”

That same love of Halal food carts has guided the Halal Spot’s menu development.

“We loved rice bowls you would get at the carts,” Woodod said, “and we’re going to continue to make it that way. When we add something to the menu or even when we’re tweaking something, we sit as a family. Everyone eats it, and we decide. … Everything that we’ve added so far has been a majority rule vote, from how the rice was made, to which add-ons were put on, to what sauce we use.”

“Our goal is to grow with the community,” he said. ”Because the more the community grows, the more our business grows. That’s something that our entire family believes in and it’s something that we continue to stand on.”

The Halal Spot

1875 S. Willow St., Manchester, 606-8796
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Style and substance at Fire & Ice

Chili Cook-Off offers demonstrations of creativity

By John Fladd

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For the past nine years the Amherst Lions Club has raised money for its community-based projects with a Fire and Ice Chili Cook-Off. Joan Ferguson is one of its coordinators.

“This is our ninth annual chili event,” she said, “and the idea has been to provide a community event in the middle of winter when everybody is asking when spring will come. There’s the chili, which is the fire, and the ice is making your own ice cream sundae.”

Ferguson said the cook-off has become something of an Amherst institution.

“We think we have it down in terms of planning, at this point,” she said, “but, you know, there’s always something we can do better. For example, during Covid we did something radically different. We videotaped competitors going before judges and making their presentation. And then we filled the recipes online. And that year we were able to get really prestigious judges because the restaurants weren’t open.”

The 2025 Fire & Ice event will take place Friday, Feb. 7, in the Souhegan High School Cafeteria. Competitors submit crockpots of their chili to be judged. Judges will circulate around the room, to each table, and judge the submissions on taste, smell, heat, creativity and presentation. Attendees will pay to sample and eat the different chilis.

Amherst Chief of Police Anthony Ciamoli will be one of this year’s judges. He said he loves chili but really looks forward to judging entrants’ creativity and patience.

“Being a layman, I was really excited [last year] to see some of the work that people put into their presentation and different kinds of chili,” he said. “Some were sweet, some were hot, and some of the people truly prepared their little stations. They had turned their areas into small vignettes. One was a dinosaur scene. It was really cool. They take a lot of pride in it. That’s a reason to make sure that we take each [submission] seriously.”

Dan DeCourcey, owner of the Up in Your Grill Food Truck (493-3191, upinyourgrill.com), is another chili judge. He thinks first impressions are important.

“You’re always going to start off with how it looks,” he said, “so the presentation, right? Then you’re looking at the product itself. In a contest like this one, the presentation is important. When you walk up [to a station] there could be a little story written on the side or, you know, they have garnishes out or, you know, different things and you’re kind of getting the first impression. If there’s a really interesting story, like … I don’t know, it’s great-grandma’s secret recipe from, you know, Mississippi that is now a family guarded secret and sought after by everyone. It just adds to the fun.”

Joan Ferguson said the chili submissions themselves have been extremely creative in past years. “We’ve had venison entries,” she said. “We’ve had beef, we’ve had chicken, and of course we’ve had vegetarian. We have very hot chili recipes and we have pleasant chili recipes. One [chili] will take the top of your head off and will be one that everybody finds savory. Don’t ask me what people prefer because the pots usually go home empty.”

Chief Ciamoli agreed. “Everyone has had different bases,” he remembered. “There was one table that I remember last year that actually had a vegetarian chili. Then there was your standard ground beef and some that had brisket. So it’s really neat to be able to try all the different styles. Some have some fruit in it to soften things. There’s work that goes into it.”

Ciamoli has a double involvement in this year’s cookoff. In addition to judging, the Amherst Police Department will be submitting a chili (which he will not be allowed to judge). He said his officers feel surprisingly motivated. “I was shocked because when I brought it up with them I said, ‘I think we should do something brisket-based,’ and then all of a sudden one of our officers I never hear from is like, ‘Whoa, whoa, whoa! Hold the phones! I want in, man!’”

Amherst Lions Club 2025 Fire and Ice Chili Cookoff

When: Friday, Feb.7, from 5 to 7 p.m.
Where: Souhegan High School Cafeteria, 412 Boston Post Road, Amherst.
Tickets: To purchase tickets, contact any Amherst Lion or purchase online. Tickets are $12 for adults, $6 for students ages 7-12, free for children ages 6 and under, $40 for a family of four or more.
There is no fee to enter a chili. Competitors must register by Feb. 4.
Visit the Amherst Lions Club website at e-clubhouse.org/sites/amherstnh.

The Weekly Dish 25/01/23

Just opened: Evviva Trattoria Bedford, a Massachusetts-based chain restaurant featuring locally sourced, modern Italian cuisine served in a family-style atmosphere with a full bar serving beer, wine and specialty cocktails, has opened a site in Bedford at 5 Colby Court (471-3205, evvivatrattoria.com). It opens at 11:30 a.m. seven days a week and closes at 8 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday and at 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, according to the website. Evviva also has a location in Rochester, N.H.

Wine expo: The 19th Annual Winter Wine Spectacular will take place at the Doubletree Expo Center (700 Elm St., Manchester, 625-1000) on Thursday, Jan. 23, from 6 to 8:30 p.m. This event is the culmination of New Hampshire Winter Wine Week and will feature more than 1,700 wines, 25 restaurants and winemakers and distributors. Tickets are still available for $75 at eventbrite.com.

Highly anticipated chicken fingers: After many weeks of anticipation, fried chicken fingers restaurant Raising Cane’s Chicken Fingers will open for business on Tuesday, Jan. 28, in the former Cactus Jack’s location (782 S. Willow St., Manchester, 263-3787, raisingcanes.com). This is the chain’s first location in New Hampshire.

Possibly the best pairing: Wine on Main (9 N. Main St., Concord, 897-5828, wineonmainnh.com) will host a cupcake and wine pairing event, Thursday, Jan. 30, from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Participants will taste four mini-cupcakes from Savvy Sweets and Treats (Bow, 387-0241, savvysweetsandtreats.com) paired with four specially chosen wines. Tickets are $35 and available through eventbrite.com. Because this event has proven to be popular in the past, a second date has been added, Wednesday, Jan. 29, also from 6:30 to 8 p.m.

Flamingos and Briefcases

zero-proof breakfast cocktail

3 ounces Ruby Red grapefruit juice

1 teaspoon dehydrated grapefruit juice powder – I use citrus powders to intensify fruit flavors in a recipe without throwing off the liquid ratios. This works really well in frostings and glazes. These powders can be found easily online. In this recipe, it’s optional, but really does dial up the level of grapefruitiness.

2 ounces alcohol-free gin – I used Free Spirits this time, and it provided a mellow backnote of juniper to the proceedings. Because it is alcohol-free, it too can be easily ordered online, or even found in some supermarkets.

¾ ounce honey syrup (see below)

1/8 teaspoon rose water

Pour the grapefruit juice into a cocktail shaker, then stir in the grapefruit powder with a bar spoon or a pair of chopsticks. Mix vigorously for 15 or 20 seconds to make certain that the powder has dissolved completely. Avoid ice for the moment; this won’t work as well in a cold solution.

Add the other ingredients, then dry shake them (this means to shake them without ice). Again, you are forcing an introduction here, and it will probably go better if the ingredients aren’t keeping to themselves in separate corners, wearing coats and huddling around radiators.

Once everything is well mixed, add ice, and shake it again. Strain into a coupé glass, and sip to some morning-themed music — Aaron Copland’s “Fanfare for the Common Man” or Nina Simone’s cover of “Here Comes the Sun,” perhaps.

Because there is no actual alcohol involved, this is a really good breakfast cocktail.

I know, that term hurts a little to think about, but because the “gin” here is just a flavoring agent, this drink can be a very nice start to your day. It’s pink, it’s fruity but also little bracing, and there is a hint of perfume at the very end. Grapefruit, like most citrus, pairs well with almost any other ingredient, and the tiny hit of juniper from the alcohol-free gin puts a thoughtful spin on the combination. This scales up beautifully to a pitcher drink.

If the idea of a breakfast cocktail is still a bit uncomfortable, imagine this:

A team of clients is in your conference room for an early morning presentation. Your team and their team have worked together before, and they’ve been happy with your work, but you’re still getting a sense of caution from them. You know that your presentation is solid, but you need them to approach it with an open mind.

After your assistant sets up the coffee and bagels on the table at the back of the room, she walks around the conference table, and places a coupe glass in each place, then fills each one halfway with this delicate pink cocktail from a martini pitcher. After your assurance that there is no alcohol involved, the senior member of the other team takes a tentative sip, pauses thoughtfully, then with one raised eyebrow takes a deeper sip and sighs, just a little, with pleasant surprise. The rest of the client team will take their cues from her, and a few minutes later that attitude of open-minded receptiveness will pay off when your slide presentation takes a turn to the unexpected, mixing sales charts with photos of armadillos and bagpipe music.

Honey Syrup

This is probably the easiest of syrups to make. Combine equal amounts of honey and boiling water, and stir to combine. Let it cool, then use for any number of beverages. The diluted honey will mix more readily with your tea or cocktail than it would at full strength. Mixed with plain club soda it makes an unexpected and delightful soda.

‘Dry’ but not boring

Bringing flavor to Mocktail Month

By John Fladd

[email protected]

You might not expect the New Hampshire Liquor Commission to be a supporter of “Dry January” — the trend of abstaining from alcohol for the month. But 2025 marks the Commission’s fifth year of partnering with area bars, restaurants and liquor brands to promote New Hampshire Mocktail Month.

“Mocktail” refers to a sophisticated adult beverage that is also alcohol-free. According to Mark Roy, the Liquor Commission’s Director of Marketing, alcohol-optional drinking has been growing in popularity.

“It’s been a growing movement, the idea of entertaining or celebrating responsibly,” Roy said. “[Mocktail Month] gives patrons and consumers the ability to go into [participating bars and restaurants] and enjoy alcohol-free or non-alcohol options along with their wives or spouses or friends who choose to responsibly imbibe that evening, but they can enjoy it along with the same great flavors and the same look without that alcohol involved.”

Roy said Mocktail Month has grown, “from a handful of restaurants the first year to 70 restaurants this year. A lot of restaurants are getting on board, and it’s from every corner of the state … They all feature mocktails on their menus. We highly recommend that you look for these on the menus and enjoy some of these great concoctions.”

Kristen Hancock is the Beverage Director for Copper Door restaurants (in Bedford and Salem). She said Mocktail Month provides an opportunity for her restaurants to highlight something they do regularly.

“We always have mocktails available,” Hancock said. “We have them on the menu all year long, but we [like] letting people know that we have these available. We try to stay seasonal with our flavors and be innovative with flavors but also be approachable.”

So who comes up with these new drinks? “Well it’s mostly me,” Hancock said. “I generally come up with the mocktails and cocktails and then I take input from other bartenders or servers who come up with ideas. We try them out, and if the staff likes them we go for it.”

She said seasonal ingredients are a source of inspiration. “We actually had a cocktail on our menu that I created that used some blueberry simple syrup and I just thought that it would be lovely with our homemade lemonade. It would be a really nice seasonal combination of fun flavors. And it’s been a huge hit. It was nice to carry over something that we use in a cocktail to then also use it in a non-alcoholic drink.”

Hancock said her staff is extremely receptive to suggestions from customers.

“In addition to the mocktails that we feature on the menu, we’re always open to do anything the guests want,” she said. “We make our homemade bloody mary mix, so we can always do a virgin bloody mary. We always have mint in-house, so I have a lot of times that people want to have a virgin raspberry mojito type of thing, and obviously our answer’s ‘Yes, so happily!’ Sometimes a customer will ask, ‘Oh, do you have any raspberries to add? Can I do that with lemonade and some soda water?’ So if we have ingredients that the guests want to play around with, we’re happy to do it.”

New Hampshire Mocktail Month
The Liquor Commission has recipes for zero-proof drinks posted on its website at explore.liquorandwineoutlets.com/live-free-and-host-responsibly.


Amethyst Night
A mocktail recipe from the New Hampshire Liquor Commission, invented by the 7-20-4 Lounge in Londonderry

2 ounces hibiscus tea

1 ounce pineapple juice

1 ounce grapefruit juice

0.75 ounce hibiscus simple syrup

0.75 ounce orgeat

0.5 ounce ginger syrup

Splash of lime juice

Combine all ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker, shake, and serve in a rocks glass, with a dried tangerine wheel for garnish.

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