Category: Food

Deconstructed poached pear

I really enjoy poached pears. They are a versatile menu item. Want a less sweet dessert? The poached pear plays that role well. Want a fruit-centric appetizer? The poached pear can be that also. However, poached pears can be a little challenging to eat when served whole or even halved. Their rounded edges want to defy the fork and knife you’re wielding!

That is where this recipe for a deconstructed poached pear comes in handy. Thin slices of pear cooked until tender are eaten easily, no knife required. Plus, sliced pears poach more quickly and evenly than a whole or half pear.

The trickiest part of this recipe may be forming the quenelle of goat cheese. Don’t fret about that. A quenelle is simply an egg-shaped portion of food. Using two spoons you should be able to do that. If not, you can use a small spatula to help shape the goat cheese into a similar shape.

A few ingredient notes for this recipe: You can replace Bosc pears with Bartlett or Anjou. I would not suggest using a smaller pear, such as Seckel. For the wine, you want to add another flavor element to the dish without overpowering the other ingredients, which is why I suggest unoaked chardonnay. Another choice would be a pinot gris or pinot grigio.

Get your ingredients assembled; it’s time to make a new and delicious appetizer or dessert.

Michele Pesula Kuegler has been thinking about food her entire life. Since 2007, the New Hampshire native has been sharing these food thoughts and recipes at her blog, Think Tasty. Visit thinktasty.com to find more of her recipes.

Deconstructed poached pear
Serves 4

2 Tablespoons sliced almonds
1 Tablespoon maple syrup
1 Bosc pear
1 cup dry white wine, such as an unoaked chardonnay
2 ounces goat cheese, room temperature
1 Tablespoon milk

Combine almonds and maple syrup in a microwave-safe bowl.
Microwave on high in 30-second increments, stirring after each.
When syrup clings to almonds and no liquid rests in the bottom of the bowl, remove from the microwave.
Carefully transfer almonds to a cutting board or piece of waxed paper, using a spoon.
Spread out the almonds to cool.
Cut pear in half, and carefully remove stem and core.
Cut each half into 10-12 thin slices.
Pour wine into a small saucepan, and place on high heat.
When wine begins to boil, reduce to a simmer and add pear slices.
Allow slices to simmer for 4 to 5 minutes or until just fork tender.
While pear slices simmer, combine goat cheese and milk in a small bowl, stirring until fully combined.
To assemble: Place 5 or 6 pear slices on a small plate.
Form a quenelle of goat cheese, using two spoons, and place next to pears.
Sprinkle maple-coated almonds over pear slices.

Photo: Deconstructed poached pear. Photo courtesy of Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Christiana Lehman

Christiana Lehman of Brookline is the owner of From Gracie’s Table (fromgraciestable.com), a line of dry rubs, homemade marinades, sweet dry mixes, candied pecans, baked goods and other items, many of which use family recipes she inherited from her late mother. Originally from Groton, Mass., Lehman moved to New Hampshire in the spring of 2020. Earlier this year, with the help of her father, Stephen, she opened Brookline’s Finest (181 Route 13, Brookline, 721-5089, find them on Facebook @brooklinesfinest), an artisan shop featuring a variety of products from vendors in and around town. It has all of her own items under the From Gracie’s Table line, as well as bagged coffees from Milford’s Union Coffee Co., breads from the Teacup Baking Co. of New Ipswich, hydroponic greens from Oasis Springs Farm of Nashua, and cheeses from Abbot Hill Creamery of Wilton. Other non-food items include candles, crafts, photography and more. Lehman also accepts special orders for her baked goods and is looking into adding premade meals to the shop in the future.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

My most used [item] is an apple peeler. It makes my job so much easier, faster and more efficient. I can do an apple pie in 10 minutes.

What would you have for your last meal?

My favorite meal on the planet is hamburgers, mashed potatoes, peas and brown gravy. It’s like Salisbury steak, but without the mushrooms. That, or beef stew. If either of those two is my last meal, I’d be happy.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Alamo [Texas BBQ & Tequila Bar in Brookline]. We go there all the time. My kids [ages 6 and 2 1/2] call it Elmo’s, which is really cute.

What celebrity would you like to see visiting your shop?

I have three. They would be Sam Heughan from Outlander, because I am a huge Outlander freak … and then [WWE wrestlers] John Cena and Triple H [Paul Michael Levesque]. … I would die if they walked in.

What is your favorite thing that you offer?

My apple pie is my favorite dessert, by far. I’ve never been able to eat an apple pie from a store in my life. … That’s my No. 1. My No. 2 is the Sweet and Smokin’ rub that I make.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Farm-to-table, for sure. Especially with Covid, everybody wants to shop local.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Chicken Parm. My chicken Parm recipe is straight from my mom and it has a lot of cheese.

“Oh my!” apple pie
From the kitchen of Christiana Lehman of From Gracie’s Table and Brookline’s Finest

2 pie crusts
8 apples
1 10-ounce container From Gracie’s Table “dry” apple pie mix (includes brown sugar, cane sugar, cornstarch, white flour, ground cinnamon, nutmeg and sea salt)
2 Tablespoons butter

Lay out the crust into the bottom of a pan. Peel and chop apples. Mix dry ingredients with apples and butter. Pour seasoned apples into the pie crust. Cover with the other pie crust and pinch the edges together. Make three small slits on the top to vent. Cook at 425 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes.

Featured photo: Christiana Lehman. Courtesy photo.

Global inspirations

Granite Restaurant & Bar reopens with new menus, executive chef

After an 18-month hiatus, Concord’s Granite Restaurant & Bar at The Centennial Hotel is back. The eatery reopened to the public on Oct. 27 for the first time since the pandemic shutdown, featuring all new locally sourced dinner, dessert and brunch menu items.

Grilled Mexican street corn.

Operations at both The Centennial Hotel and the Granite Restaurant & Bar were first suspended back in late March 2020, and while the hotel did begin welcoming back guests by mid-August of that year, its in-house dining experience remained closed. With its long-awaited reopening, general manager and sales and marketing director Laura Leslie said the restaurant’s newly appointed kitchen staff hope to take it in a new direction going forward.

“Our main goal was to change from what people might have seen as a place to go for a special occasion like a birthday or an anniversary … to somewhere that you’d want to go to eat two or three times a week, because the menu is just that approachable,” Leslie said.

Charlie Lavery has been recruited to take over the helm of the kitchen as the executive chef. Lavery attended the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont and has amassed decades of experience working in restaurants across New England since then, including the Mediterranean-inspired Ebb and Flow in Portland, Maine, and The Snowvillage Inn in the Mt. Washington Valley. He also served as chef de cuisine of LaBelle Winery in Amherst for a time.

“The menu for Granite is all about plays on international comfort foods and street foods,” Lavery said. “I’m very much inspired by world cuisine, and I think it’s important to bring that to the table because there are so many great techniques out there. … We try to use local ingredients as much as possible, and fewer of them, as opposed to lots of lower-level ingredients.”

The Mexican street corn dish, for instance, features grilled local corn with a smoky ancho chili crema, while the bluefin tuna crudo, a current menu favorite of Lavery’s, is made with Thai basil and a Meyer lemon and caper vinaigrette, served with crispy house lavash bread. Another seafood starter is the moules frites, or mussels and fries — that dish features a large bowl of Bangs Island mussels, served in stone ground mustard with bacon and house cut fries.

“I’m big into seafood. All of the seafood we serve is New England sourced, for sure,” he said.

Entrees run the gamut from a certified Angus beef burger and a jerk marinated Statler chicken breast to a grilled Berkshire heritage pork and a 12-ounce New York strip steak.

Mason jar trifle.

Other menu items are uniquely fall inspired, like the pumpkin bisque and the Parisian gnocchi with foraged mushrooms, Parmesan reggiano cheese and a local squash puree. As the seasons change, Lavery hopes to continue utilizing more products that become available.

Desserts cover every palate too, from simple options like house ice creams and sorbets to a bit more elevated delicacies, like a Meyer lemon tart with lavender honey, a spiced carrot cake trifle served in a Mason jar with cream cheese frosting, and a tart cherry bread pudding.

“The chef’s tart cherry bread pudding is just to die for,” Leslie said. “Most bread puddings are really dense and heavy, but this one is really light. The flavors are also just super well-balanced, with the tartness of the cherries and the sweetness of the whipped cream.”

While it’s always been known for its selection of wines and cocktails, Leslie said, the restaurant’s new drink menu will have more emphasis on non-alcoholic mocktails.

Breakfast and lunch are no longer being served during the week, but a brunch menu will still be available on Sundays, with items like breakfast burritos, hash and eggs with house cured corned beef hash, buttermilk biscuits and gravy, Belgian waffles and more.

The eatery’s private dining room, accommodating parties of up to 10, is also back open, while four additional private function spaces are available to rent throughout the hotel.

Granite Restaurant & Bar

Where: The Centennial Hotel, 96 Pleasant St., Concord
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. (bar stays open until 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays), and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
More info: Visit graniterestaurant.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @centennialandgranite or call 227-9005
Reservations are strongly encouraged.

Featured photo: Parisian gnocchi. All photos by Brian Samuels Photography.

The Weekly Dish 21/11/11

News from the local food scene

• Backyard brews: Get your tickets now before they’re gone to the third annual Backyard Winterfest, happening at Backyard Brewery & Kitchen (1211 S. Mammoth Road, Manchester) on Friday, Dec. 3, from 6 to 9 p.m. Returning after a hiatus in 2020, this 21+-only event brings craft breweries from all over Derry, Londonderry and Manchester together for a night of pouring and sampling. Backyard Winterfest is an outdoor event, so dress accordingly. Tickets are $30 per person and include access to all of the beer being poured throughout the evening, as well as a four-ounce tasting glass. Visit backyardbrewerynh.com.

• More Greek eats to go: Join Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) for its next boxed Greek dinner to go, a drive-thru takeout event happening on Sunday, Nov. 21, from noon to 1 p.m. Now through Wednesday, Nov. 17, orders are being accepted for boxed meals featuring dinners of stuffed peppers, roasted potatoes, Greek salad and a roll for $15 per person. The event is drive-thru and takeout only — email ordermygreekfood@gmail.com or call 953-3051 to place your order. The church is also planning a similar takeout and pickup meal featuring Greek pork souvlaki, scheduled for Jan. 16. Visit holytrinitynh.org.

• Col’s Kitchen recognized: Col’s Kitchen, a plant-based restaurant in downtown Concord, was recently named in a Top Ten Vegan Pies list compiled by PETA for its peach pie, according to a press release. The pie features a filling of local New Hampshire peaches tossed in cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and a locally made bourbon, served in a flaky wheat crust with a streusel top. “Delicious peaches covered with a buttery brown sugar crumble make Col’s Kitchen’s vegan pie an instant holiday classic,” PETA Executive Vice President Tracy Reiman said in a statement. Col’s Kitchen, which opened in the former Willow’s Plant-Based Eatery space in mid-August 2020, is also known for its “pie shakes,” which are slices of pie blended up with milk and a few scoops of ice cream. The peach pie is one of six vegan pie options the eatery is offering for the Thanksgiving season, in addition to blueberry, cherry, apple, pumpkin and pecan.

• Mr. Mac’s goes national: Mr. Mac’s Macaroni & Cheese of Manchester, celebrating its 10-year milestone, is now offering nationwide shipping of its take-and-bake options, its owners announced in a recent press release. According to the release, the eatery had been receiving requests from customers that wanted to send Mr. Mac’s options to friends and family for years. “We are pleased to finally be able to say ‘yes,’ we can now ship, especially just in time for the holiday gift-giving season,” Mr. Mac’s founder Patrick Cain said in a statement. A dozen gourmet macaroni and cheese flavors are now available to ship, including the classic all American, the bacon cheddar mac, the jalapeno popper mac, the Philly cheese steak mac, and others. According to the release, all orders submitted on Thursdays and Fridays will be shipped the following Monday and should arrive at their destination in two or three business days. Each order is packed fresh with cool packs to keep at a safe temperature.

Trillium and some random hoppy beers

You’ve got to respect the hops

Because she’s a hero, my wife made a reservation at Trillium Brewing Co.’s Canton, Mass., location. And because she’s a hero and made the reservation, we didn’t have to wait in line.

For those who have never been, like myself up until a couple weeks ago: It’s an impressive spot with an expansive indoor/outdoor facility right off the highway about 20 minutes or so outside of Boston. With an incredible variety of fresh, delicious and unique brews, it’s no wonder RateBeer.com currently has Trillium tabbed as the fourth-best brewery in the world.

If you can time it right or if your partner is also a hero and makes a reservation (you need to have a party of at least six), then it’s absolutely worth the drive. Not only is the beer incredible; the food is terrific as well — we ate way too much scrumptious pizza.

I’d had a couple Trillium brews over the years but I couldn’t remember which ones. I started with a Summer Street IPA, which is wonderful, featuring big citrus and pine flavors in a pretty dry and crisp overall package.

My wife went with the Barrel-Aged Affrogato, which is hands-down the most decadent beer I’ve ever sipped, with huge notes of bourbon, vanilla, coffee and sweet brown sugar.

Sticking with hoppy beers, I tried the Double Dry Hopped Stillings Street, which is another super aromatic IPA characterized by an array of melony aromas and flavors, a soft mouthfeel and borderline nonexistent bitterness.

I rounded it out with the Mosaic Free Rise, a dry-hopped saison, which is a bit of a departure for me, but this was delightful. Crisp, fruity, dry and a little spicy, Free Rise is one of the brewery’s signature saisons.

I felt like I sufficiently experienced the brewery’s hoppy beers, but on another trip, I’d want to better explore Trillium’s array of imperial stouts, like the Coffee Cake Imperial Stout and the Barrel-Aged German Chocolate Cake Doughnut Imperial Stout, most of which land north of 13 percent ABV, just so you know.

Trillium also features a big list of wild ales that deserve your attention as well.

As we left, the line had grown considerably. If you can’t make a reservation, my advice is to get there early — they open at noon on Saturday. You don’t want to be in that line.

Trillium was terrific and I have to be honest, I’ve been all about the hops lately. Here are three hoppy beers I’ve enjoyed over the past few weeks.

Lush Double IPA by Frost Beer Works (Hinesburg, Vermont)

This is rich and juicy and that’s not a typo. I’m not used to referring to an IPA as rich but this one is. It’s velvety smooth and boasts a big-time citrus flavor. You might have to track this down in Vermont or in a beer store just over the border in Massachusetts — and you should track this down.

Full Clip NEIPA by Stoneface Brewing Co. (Newington)

I hadn’t had this New England IPA in a long time and the first sip reminded me why I like it so much: juicy, vibrant and drinkable. It’s an explosion of tropical and citrus flavor but in an overall package that is quite approachable.

Victory Nor Defeat by Able Ebenezer Brewing Co. (Merrimack)

This double IPA is a wonderful rendition of a West Coast IPA that hits you with big flavor, including plenty of piney hop character and a delightful bitterness.

What’s in my fridge

Giant Pumpkin Imperial Pumpkin Ale by Greater Good Imperial Brewing Co. (Worcester, Mass.) If you don’t like pumpkin, move along. This is an absolute bomb of pumpkin flavor. It’s a little sweet, it’s a little spicy and it’s exceptionally smooth. Despite its relatively high ABV at 8 percent, it drinks very easily — it’s a little dangerous, honestly. I’m hit or miss on pumpkin beers but this was a decided hit. Cheers!

Featured photo: Lush Double IPA by Frost Beer Works. Photo courtesy of Jeff Mucciarone

Mini pumpkin whoopie pies

The season of eating has begun! Or at least in my eyes it has. Halloween kicks off a series of holidays and parties that are food-centric. Why not add a fall-themed recipe to the list of treats you can make to share at these gatherings?

These whoopie pies are really quite simple to make — not much more effort is required than in making a batch of cookies. However, a tray of these mini whoopie pies garners much more attention than a plate of cookies. Trust me.

When making these whoopie pies there are a couple items of note. First, make sure you buy canned pumpkin puree. You don’t want pie filling, which will be too sweet, and you don’t want to use fresh pumpkin. Fresh pumpkin sounds nice, but it takes a lot more time to cook it, and it probably won’t be as smooth as the canned version. Second, when baking the cakes, if you don’t trust your judgment when testing their springiness, you also can use a cake tester or toothpick. If it comes out clean, the cakes are done. Don’t overbake the cakes; you want them to be moist.

Michele Pesula Kuegler has been thinking about food her entire life. Since 2007, the New Hampshire native has been sharing these food thoughts and recipes at her blog, Think Tasty. Visit thinktasty.com to find more of her recipes.

Mini pumpkin whoopie pies
Makes 15

Cakes
½ cup unsalted butter, melted & cooled
1 cup light brown sugar
1 egg
1½ cups canned pumpkin puree
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 teaspoons cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon salt
1⅔ cups all-purpose flour

Filling
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
¼ cup unsalted butter, softened
1¾ cups powdered sugar
1 Tablespoon whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla

Cakes
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place ½ cup butter and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer, and beat with paddle attachment on speed 2 until smooth.
Add egg, mixing until fully incorporated on speed 2.
Add pumpkin, vanilla, cinnamon, ground cloves, baking powder, baking soda and salt, mixing well on speed 2.
Use a spatula to scrape down the sides, and mix again.
Add flour, mixing on low; scrape sides with spatula and mix until fully blended.
Scoop approximately 1½ tablespoons batter, spaced evenly, onto baking sheet.
Bake for 18 minutes or until cakes spring back when touched.
Allow to cool for 2 minutes on baking sheet.
Transfer to baking rack to cool completely.

To assemble
In a stand mixer cream together the cream cheese and 1/4 cup butter on speed 2 for about 4 minutes.
Add powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla; mix on low speed until combined.
Spread the flat side of 15 cooled cakes with the cream cheese frosting.
Top each with another cake.

Photo: Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

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