Category: Food

In the kitchen with Dave Stewart

Dave Stewart is the owner of the Blasty Bough Brewing Co. (3 Griffin Road, Epsom, 724-3636, blastybough.com), a farm-to-kettle brewery that opened its doors on the grounds of McClary Hill Farm in Epsom in early 2018. The brewery gets its name from a branch of pine known as a “blasty bough,” used by immigrant settlers in colonial America to light fires to cook their food and keep them warm during the winter. Stewart, who began home brewing in the early 1990s, said he became inspired by friends of his setting up breweries on their own farms. In addition to the beers — featuring a lineup that includes a New England IPA, a Belgian-style golden strong ale and a lightly hopped American amber ale, among others — Stewart offers a small scratch-cooked “Munchings & Crunchings” food menu at the brewery, with items like macaroni and cheese, chili and cornbread, a barbecue pulled pork sandwich, chips with homemade pico de gallo, and a Korean-style spiced brisket sandwich.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A nice set of balanced, sharp knives.

What would you have for your last meal?

Wild strawberries with raw milk whipped cream.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Lazy Lion in Deerfield. They’ve been around for a good long time and have stayed the course. It’s just good food and it’s an interesting setting in a nice little town.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from the brewery?

I have to have two. Stanley Tucci, just because I think that would be fun, and then the other would be a guy named Dario Cecchini. He’s a butcher from Panzano in Chianti[, Italy]. He was on an episode of Chef’s Table, the Netflix show … and he’s kind of a larger-than-life character. … I don’t have the same kind of personality as him, but I think it would be nice to feed him.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The newest thing that we’ve added is a brisket sandwich done in a Korean style, so it’s got kimchi and gochujang on a slightly chewy, fairly soft roll, and that’s been well-received. That’s the current favorite.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think people are hungry, no pun intended, for an experience. … The saying is that people eat with their eyes, and so if you present them with something and it’s beautiful, it’s going to taste better.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

A linguine with white clam sauce. It’s just something that showcases a couple of ingredients and it’s simple.

Sbricciolona (Italian lemon almond cake)
From the kitchen of Dave Stewart of the Blasty Bough Brewing Co. in Epsom, modified from Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Italian Cooking

¼ pound blanched, skinned almonds
1 cup toasted almonds
1¾ cups all purpose flour
½ cup cornmeal
⅝ cup granulated sugar
Grate the peel of 1 lemon
2 egg yolks
8 Tablespoons room-temperature butter

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grind the skinned almonds to a powder. In a food processor or a blender, pulse the motor on and off until the desired consistency is reached. Mix all of the dry ingredients, the ground almonds, the toasted almond chunks and the lemon peel into a big bowl. Add the egg yolks to the dry ingredients and mix it all together with your fingers. Keep using your fingers to mix in the softened butter. Smear the bottom of a 12-inch cake pan with butter. Crumble and sprinkle the dough evenly into the pan. Bake for 40 minutes. Serve when completely cooled and firm — it breaks up into nifty, irregular chunks. According to Stewart, it’s best served with any dark beer or dessert wine, or a cup of tea or coffee.


Featured photo: Dave Stewart, owner of the Blasty Bough Brewing Co. in Epsom. Courtesy photo.

Have you herb about this?

NH Herbal Network’s Herb & Garden Day returns

By Maya Puma

listings@hippopress.com

Herb enthusiasts and foodies alike will gather at the Mount Kearsarge Indian Museum in Warner on Saturday, June 3, for Herb & Garden Day. The signature event of the New Hampshire Herbal Network returns for a 13th year and will feature a full day’s worth of workshops, raffle prizes, local vendors and more.

This year’s event will consist of eight workshops. Attendees are given a program during registration, which begins at 8 a.m., followed by the first workshop running at 9 a.m.

Keynote speaker Wendy Snow Fogg of the Misty Meadows Herbal Center in Lee is due to speak at lunchtime. There will be more than 26 vendors selling wood carvings, herbal body care and natural skin products, herbal tea blends, honey-infused herbs and lots of plants.

Event coordinator Sonia Gaudette said the vendors will include “a nice variety of flower essences, plants, spirit pendulums, necklaces, and a lot of fun stuff.” The vendors will be set up in a half circle so people will be able to walk around and have access to them. The event will also feature a kids’ tent and a mushroom and plant walk, in which attendees will have the opportunity to learn about how to forage edible and medicinal plants and mushrooms.

Some of the workshops are food-oriented, covering topics such as pickling, the sweet benefits of the bitter taste and using herbs for pain management. Most of them come from different nearby farms or herbal companies.

Rivka Schwartz of Health and Hearth, Gaudette said, will lead “Pickling: The Traditional, Easy, Probiotic Method,” which aims to teach attendees about the old-fashioned way to ferment vegetables. Lior Sadeh of Bee Fields Farm in Wilton will lead “The Sweet Benefits of the Bitter Taste” — that workshop covers the history and health benefits of bitter-tasting foods, as herbalists claim modern diseases express bitterness deficiency.

Ramblin’ Man Provisions, a new pop-up food trailer, will provide different breakfast options utilizing local eggs and vegetables. The Gilford-based Beans & Greens Farm will also serve lunch from their wood-fired food truck, while Drink Positive NH, a smoothie trailer, is expected to serve options of its own. Herb & Garden Day also includes a plant sale, where home gardeners will be able to purchase their own seeds to grow herbs, fruits and vegetables.

Gaudette expects to have at least 250 to 300 people attend this year. Funding from Herb & Garden Day helps to pay for a monthly workshop the New Hampshire Herbal Network runs.

“It’s gotten so much bigger over the years,” she said. “We went from 25 people showing up to 250 people showing up.”

13th annual Herb & Garden Day
When: Saturday, June 3, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Where: Mount Kearsarge Indian Museum, 18 Highlawn Road, Warner
Cost: $35 general admission, or $5 to only shop the market
Visit: nhherbalnetwork.org/herbday

The Alamo Texas Barbecue and Tequila Bar (Brookline, alamobarbecue.com)
All Real Meal (Manchester, allrealmeal.com)
Bone Daddy’s Competition BBQ Team (find them on Facebook)
Celebrations Catering (Manchester, celebrationsmenu.com)
Clyde’s Cupcakes (Exeter, clydescupcakes.com)
Dandido Sauce (Manchester, dandiosauce.com)
Donali’s Land and Sea (Nashua, donalifoodtruck.com)

Featured photo: Scene from Herb & Garden Day. Courtesy photos.

A Gate City flavor tour

Taste of Downtown Nashua returns

Foodies will get a unique opportunity to discover the Gate City’s culinary scene during the annual Taste of Downtown Nashua, returning for a 27th year on Wednesday, June 7. Presented by the Nashua-based nonprofit Great American Downtown, the event pairs nearly two dozen area restaurants with participating businesses for a night of exclusive food and drink sampling.

“We have 20 stops, which is the most we’ve had in a few years,” Great American Downtown executive director Carolyn Walley said. “The tradition of the event is that there will be a flow of attendees going through the shops, and so you get a two-in-one experience. You get to check out the shops and the restaurants at the same time. … You also leave the event completely full, so you don’t have to buy dinner that night. I get messages from a lot of people saying that they like to go with their family and walk around downtown to try everything, and it’s fun.”

Pandemic woes forced the Taste of Downtown to pause for two years before it was able to return in full force last year. As a result, the 2022 event featured several first-time participants.

“It was so great to see Main Street buzzing again,” Walley said of last year’s Taste of Downtown. “That was the first time that a lot of us had seen such a crowd on Main Street in a couple of years. I think we sold about 750 tickets last year, and we’re expecting the same this time.”

Ticket holders will receive a map with a designated number for each assigned stop, featuring a participating restaurant or food truck paired up with another downtown retail business. Three outdoor areas of live local music — New Hampshire-based alternative rock band Hunter, Nashua group The Humans Being and the Nick Goumas Jazz Quartet — are also part of the experience.

The event is timed perfectly for attendees to discover Mike’s Italian Kitchen, which recently just rebranded from MT’s Local Kitchen & Wine Bar within the last several weeks. Walley said they plan to serve miniature Italian sausage subs, while their sister restaurant, Surf, will serve tiramisu.

Rambling House Food & Gathering and The Hidden Pig, two other local eateries that have joined Nashua’s dining scene within the last year, are also participating for the first time.

“This year we’ve really expanded our horizons from what downtown is usually considered,” Walley said. “We usually have it from City Hall to the Hunt Building and then east and west a few blocks. But we’ve expanded more down toward South Main Street, and so Root Awakening Kava Bar is participating, and then some of the other restaurants are down there. … I think downtown is naturally growing, so we’re trying to expand our normal perspective of it.”

In addition to the foods, of-age attendees will have access to two craft beer stops courtesy of Bellavance Beverage Co., at The Hidden Pig and The Peddler’s Daughter. Taste of Downtown tickets can be purchased in advance online via Eventbrite, and are also available the day of.

“I pair the businesses together and then it’s really up to them to collaborate … with coming up with the display and the offerings and things like that,” Walley said. “So it really generates a great sense of community between the businesses, which is what I like most about it.”

27th annual Taste of Downtown Nashua
When: Wednesday, June 7, 6 to 8:30 p.m.
Where: Main Street and several connecting side streets across downtown Nashua
Cost: $45 per person, which includes access to all the provided food samples (and beer samples for attendees ages 21+); tickets can be purchased online through Eventbrite
Visit: downtownnashua.org/taste
Maps of participating locations, which include parking guides, are available online or can be picked up at Scontsas Fine Jewelry (169-173 Main St.), CasaNova Men’s Boutique (147 Main St.) and Fresh of Nashua (178 Main St.) on the day of the event.

Participating food and beverage purveyors

  • Bellavance Beverage Co. (bellavancebev.com; beer stops will be at The Hidden Pig and The Peddler’s Daughter)
  • Caribbean Breeze (caribbeanbreeze-restaurant.com; paired with PRG Rugs)
  • Casa Vieja Mexican Grill (ordercasaviejamexicangrilltequilabar.com; paired with Enterprise Bank)
  • Cravings Cafe & Gift Shop (find them on Facebook @cravingscafe.nashua; paired with NBT Bank)
  • Edible Arrangements (ediblearrangements.com; paired with Purple Finch Properties)
  • Giant of Siam (giantofsiam.com; paired with Glorious Possibilities)
  • The Hidden Pig (thehiddenpig.com; paired with the Nashua Center for the Arts)
  • JajaBelle’s (jajabelles.com; paired with Meredith & Greene Candle Bar)
  • Mike’s Italian Kitchen (mikesitaliankitchennh.com; paired with CasaNova Men’s Boutique)
  • The Peddler’s Daughter (thepeddlersdaughter.com; paired with the League of New Hampshire Craftsmen)
  • Rambling House Food & Gathering (ramblingtale.com; paired with Tangled Roots Herbal)
  • Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe (riverwalknashua.com; paired with Fresh of Nashua)
  • Root Awakening Kava Bar (rootawakeningkava.com; paired with Creative Vibes)
  • Soel Sistas (soelsistas.com; paired with Fortin Gage Flowers & Gifts)
  • Stella Blu (stellablu-nh.com; paired with Bar Harbor Bank & Trust)
  • Sub Zero Nitrogen Ice Cream (subzeroicecream.com; paired with Nashua Coins & Collectibles)
  • Surf (surfseafood.com; paired with Wilfred’s Barber Shop)
  • Tostao’s Tapas — Bar (tostaostapasbar.com; paired with Scontsas Fine Jewelry)

Featured photo: Photo by Chris Michaud.

The Weekly Dish 23/06/01

News from the local food scene

• Bacon me crazy: There’s still time to get tickets to this year’s New Hampshire Bacon & Beer Festival, returning to Anheuser-Busch Brewery (221 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack) on Saturday, June 3, with general admission from 1:30 to 4:30 p.m. and VIP admittance, directly following a cocktail hour, beginning at 12:30 p.m. A chief fundraiser for the High Hopes Foundation, the festival will feature more than 50 craft brewers serving beers, ciders, meads and cocktails. Local restaurants and food trucks and competitive barbecuers also join in on the fun, receiving bacon from Claremont’s North Country Smokehouse to create any kind of dish they want. Find a story about the festival in the May 25 edition of the Hippo on page 40; see hippopress.com.

• 110 Grill now open in Concord: The 110 Grill, a regional restaurant chain with several locations across New England and New York state, recently celebrated the grand opening of its newest spot in Concord. The 80 Storrs St. restaurant, the 110 Grill’s seventh New Hampshire location, opened on May 17, according to a recent post on its Facebook page. See 110grill.com to view the restaurant’s full menus.

• Getting corny: Join New Hampshire Audubon at its Massabesic Center (26 Audubon Way, Auburn) for Growing Corn: As Fresh As It Gets, a workshop on Thursday, June 8, from 5 to 6:30 p.m. featuring UNH Cooperative Extension master gardener Will Lowenthal. He’ll discuss how to select different varieties of local sweet corn this summer, including determining where and how to plant and maintain a healthy crop as well as how to address pests and other problems. Registration is required by June 5 — the cost is $15. Visit nhaudubon.org or call the Massabesic center at 668-2045 to register.

• Ya Mas on the move: Pelham eatery Ya Mas Greek Taverna & Bar is relocating to a larger space at the Mall at Rockingham Park (99 Rockingham Park Blvd., Salem), and has a projected reopening date of July 15, according to recent announcements on its Facebook and Instagram pages. “The Pelham location will be closing at the end of June,” the announcement goes on to read. See yamasgreektaverna.com.

Too many thorns

I know I’m not the first person to point this out, but the original versions of a lot of nursery rhymes and fairytales were pretty brutal. In the original version of Little Red Riding Hood, the story ends with the wolf eating her. Ring Around the Rosie is about the Black Death. In The Old Woman Who Lived in Her Shoe, the shoe is less an actual shoe and more a family-planning metaphor. An old version of Snow White was known in Switzerland as The Death of Seven Dwarfs.

Few of them though, are as hard-core as Rapunzel:

“The prince was overcome with grief, and in his despair, he threw himself from the tower. He escaped with his life, but the thorns into which he fell poked out his eyes. Blind, he wandered about in the forest, eating nothing but grass and roots, and doing nothing but weeping and wailing over the loss of his beloved wife. Thus, he wandered about miserably for some years, finally happening into the wilderness where Rapunzel lived miserably with the twins that she had given to.” — Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm, Rapunzel

Never mind Rapunzel’s mother selling her into captivity to a witch in exchange for a head of lettuce at the beginning of the story. These four sentences alone would make an eight-episode Netflix series. Also, wife? Twins?

“That’s both fascinating, and disturbing,” you say, “but how does it relate to cocktails?” I’m glad you asked.

In my relative youth, a combination of poor decision-making skills and the callous forces of Capitalism left me living in a forest cottage for a summer, with literally no money, existing largely on birdseed and the berries that I could forage in a nearby clearing. I can attest to the flesh-slashing properties of blackberry thorns.

I call today’s cocktail“Too Many Thorns.” The prince from Rapunzel would agree with me.

Too many thorns

  • 2 ounces gin – this week, I’m using Engine Organic Gin, which comes in an oil can, because why not?
  • ½ ounce blackberry syrup (see below)
  • 1 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
  • ½ ounce blackberry brandy
  • 1 egg white

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker, and dry-shake it (without ice) for 30 seconds. It is important to do this, because if you add an egg white directly to ice it will seize up in an extremely unappetizing way.

Add ice, and shake for another 30 seconds.

Strain into a cocktail or coupé glass. Your drink should have a foamy head on it.

Raise a toast to our unnamed, bethorned prince wandering blindly through the wilderness, eating grass and roots, and eat some pâté on a cracker.

So, what’s with the egg white?

Two things: First, it adds a foamy, velvety quality to a cocktail. Additionally, egg whites are slightly alkaline, which levels out the acidity from the lemon juice and blackberries. Lemon is a classic combination with blackberries, and the bite from the gin cuts through the sweetness of the drink and reminds you that there is an adult in the room. Hopefully you.

Though it’s usually grown-ups who climb towers and get their eyes gouged.

Blackberry syrup

Combine one bag of frozen blackberries with an equal amount (by weight) of sugar in a small saucepan. Cook on medium heat. As the berries thaw, the sugar will draw the juice out from them. Because they’ve been frozen, all the cells in the berries have been stabbed by ice crystals and are more than willing to cry about it. Cook slowly, until the mixture comes to a boil. Somewhere in this process, mash everything with a potato masher. Let the mixture boil for 10 to 15 seconds, to make sure that all the sugar has dissolved.

Remove from the heat, then strain it to remove seeds and berry guck. This will keep for several weeks in your refrigerator.

Featured photo: Blackberry without the thorns. Photo by John Fladd.

In the kitchen with Adam Donnelly

Adam Donnelly of New Boston is the executive chef of the Riverside Grille (737 River Road, New Boston, 384-2149, riversidegrillenh.com), which opened in January. Known for its eclectic modern-American menu, served alongside a full bar in a family-friendly casual setting, Riverside Grille offers items like burgers, wraps, sandwiches and flatbread pizzas in addition to plated steak and seafood dishes. Donnelly is originally from Goffstown and has several years of local restaurant experience, mostly specializing in classic French and Italian cooking.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

The easy answer is to say a French knife, but it’s because it’s true. You can use it for almost anything.

What would you have for your last meal?

Mac and cheese. Always has been and always will be. … You can always mess with it a little bit and do it how you want.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

It’s Firefly [American Bistro & Bar] in Manchester. They are old friends of mine and great owners. I learned more from Chef David [Becker] when I was younger than anyone else and I attribute a lot of what I’ve done to those relationships.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at the Riverside Grille?

To be honest, I would much rather see the members of my community enjoying themselves. We have been missing a gathering point for our communities and I love that people can do that here. Especially in a small town like this, I think it’s really important.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

I would love to say it’s the new app sampler or the Mixed Grille, but it is definitely the grilled stuffed chicken. [It has] fresh spinach and feta cheese, topped with roasted tomatoes and a garlic cream sauce. It’s got everything you want in a dish.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I have really enjoyed that people are getting back to basic homestyle dishes — classic Americana. The culinary world got pretty pretentious for a while and I think it’s kind of returning to its roots now.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I really like to cook breakfast for my kids [ages 9, 8 and 7] in the morning. They have been picky up until now, but they’re really opening up to new things. Cheese omelets are their newest favorite.

Tasha’s pan sauce
From the kitchen of Adam Donnelly of the Riverside Grille in New Boston

Any cut of steak to your liking
Red wine
Pinch of garlic
Pinch of rosemary
Pinch of thyme
1 cup beef stock
1 to 2 Tablespoons butter

Sear the steak in a cast iron pan and finish it in the oven. Remove the steak and deglaze the pan with red wine. Add the garlic, rosemary and thyme and simmer for a minute. Add the beef stock and reduce by half. Take off the heat and add a couple of tablespoons of butter. Swirl until melted. Stir it up and serve.


Featured photo: Adam Donnelly, executive chef of the Riverside Grille in New Boston. Courtesy photo.

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