Category: Food

Classic meal, new wines

What to drink with your turkey and pie

Thanksgiving is just two weeks away! It seems like yesterday we were looking for cool white wines and enjoying spritzers in the back yard. The days may be getting cooler and shorter but that shouldn’t dampen our spirits. The holiday season begins with Thanksgiving, a time to get together with family and friends to celebrate and give thanks for our health and bounty. In addition to high school football games, the day is focused on “the big meal,” which may last several hours. The food is hearty and certainly diverse, starting with appetizers, moving on to the main meal of roast turkey with multiple side dishes, ending in what may seem like a dozen different pies.

The Thanksgiving menu can be challenging when it comes to pairing the right wine to go with each course. A familiar response to this question is, “a white wine, of course.” That response covers a lot of territory! Many will pick a white sparkling wine, while others may opt for a light dry rosé. A chardonnay is often suggested, as the slight creaminess pairs well with roast turkey. Another option is a pinot noir. This red may have bright berry notes to it. It will not overpower the turkey while complementing the wide range of side dishes.

For this Thanksgiving I have selected a California chardonnay and two French wines, one from the Loire River valley, the other from the northern reaches of Beaujolais.

Our first wine, the 2016 Stuhlmuller Vineyards Estate Chardonnay (originally priced at $29.99, and reduced to $12.49 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), is a perfect chardonnay to pair with the main course. Coming from the southwestern corner of the Alexander Valley, the vineyard of Roger and Carmen Stuhlmuller was planted in the 1970s with top-quality vines. The slight rise above the banks of the Russian River of gravel, clay and volcanic soils, along with cool nighttime temperatures, produces fruit that is rich with complex flavors and good acidity. With a color of golden straw and a nose of fresh pear and apple, it develops on the palate with notes of spicy pear and nectarine, along with some minerality from the soils and a touch of the oak from barrel aging. The finish is long and complex with a slight touch of acidity, perfect for pairing to the main course.

Our second wine, the 2017 Château de Fesles Chenin Sec (originally priced at $59.99, and reduced to $21.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), comes from the Anjou region of the Loire River Valley of France. This wine is a slight departure from the usual recommendations for the Thanksgiving feast. The color is straw that somehow has a sparkle even though it is a still wine. It has a floral nose of citric blossoms that transform to the palate with dried fruit, honey and toasted bread. This is a wine that can pair with appetizers of cheese or smoked salmon or the creaminess of a New England Clam Chowder. While it’s hardly mainstream, if enough of us try it and ask for it, the State may stock more of this Anjou varietal.

Our third wine, the 2018 Domaine Laurent Gauthier Chiroubles Chatenay Vieilles Vignes (originally priced at $41.99, and reduced to $16.99 at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets), comes from the northern edge of the Beaujolais region of France. This wine is produced from gamay noir grapes just as Beaujolais is, but coming from the northern edge of the region the wine benefits from the similar terroir, its soils and climate, as the rich red burgundies we all love. The color is a rich garnet, with purple tints. The nose is floral, with notes of dark cherry, along with some minerality generated by the soils of the region. The palate is light, but satisfying with plenty of fruit, with a long finish. This is a welcome alternative to a familiar pinot noir!

For this Thanksgiving, offer your family and friends some alternative wines, something new to explore. These wines are but a sampling of the many options to expand our experiences with wine and food.

Featured photo: Courtesy Photo.

Project Handsome

As I skid into late middle age, I’ve had to face up to some limitations:

I think I’ve missed my window for running with the bulls in Pamplona.

I’m increasingly unlikely to ever rescue Minnie Driver from a gang of teenage miscreants with an impressive display of capoeira.

I’ll never be able to have my flunkies remove an undesirable party guest by telling them, “Show this cat to the door.”

But I do have an outside chance to meet one modest goal:

I’d like to be handsome.

I’m not talking about being consistently handsome or anything. I haven’t become completely detached from reality. I’d just like to clear the bar once or twice. I figure I’ve got about 10 years before that becomes an impossibility. I’ve been putting a plan into action that I call “Project Handsome.”

A handsome vest…

Again, at this point in my life, it’s vanishingly unlikely that I’ll be able to lose a lot of weight and achieve the chiseled physique that’s escaped me thus far. But there are other large, gray-haired men who have successfully solved the handsomeness problem.

Yes, other than Santa Claus.

And what do they have that I don’t? Aside from money and self-confidence?

They dress well.

Because I’m built more or less like a walrus, I find it hard to find good, adult clothing off the rack. So, a few months ago, I had an inspiration; I went to a tailor and had myself professionally measured, then ordered some bespoke clothing from a couple of online tailors. It turns out that I can afford nice clothing if I don’t actually go to a clothing store.

I ordered a vest from a tailor in the United Kingdom who specializes in Jane Austen-era clothing. It is far and away the nicest piece of clothing I own and will, inevitably, leave me for a classier fat guy. It had to be disappointed that I wore it to work its first time out, instead of an awards banquet or a royal horse race.

But it has inspired me to reformulate a classic British cocktail, the Tailor Made:

Internet Tailor

¼ ounce honey syrup (See below.)

1½ ounces bourbon – I’m still using Evan Williams. I like it.

½ ounce St. Germain, an elderflower liqueur

1 ounce fresh-squeezed pink grapefruit juice

1 ounce pomegranate juice

Dry-shake (without ice) the honey syrup and bourbon in a cocktail shaker to mix them thoroughly.

Add ice and the other ingredients. Shake until very cold.

Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a strip of grapefruit peel.

The key to this cocktail is the relatively modest amount of bourbon, which allows the drink to taste grown up but not too assertive. The very sour juices are balanced by the flavors of elderflower and honey. It is best drunk bracingly cold.

You may or may not look handsome drinking this, but you will feel at least 40 percent more handsome.

Honey syrup

Essentially this is a classic simple syrup but made with honey instead of white sugar. The better the honey you use, the classier your cocktails will taste.

Ingredients: Equal parts, by weight, of honey and water.

Add the honey and water to a small saucepan and heat over medium heat.

Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally.

Boil for 10 to 20 seconds, to make sure that the honey is completely dissolved.

Remove from heat, cool and bottle. Make sure you label your bottle and keep it in your refrigerator for a month or so.

Featured photo: A handsome drink. Photos courtesy of John Fladd.

Deconstructed poached pear

I really enjoy poached pears. They are a versatile menu item. Want a less sweet dessert? The poached pear plays that role well. Want a fruit-centric appetizer? The poached pear can be that also. However, poached pears can be a little challenging to eat when served whole or even halved. Their rounded edges want to defy the fork and knife you’re wielding!

That is where this recipe for a deconstructed poached pear comes in handy. Thin slices of pear cooked until tender are eaten easily, no knife required. Plus, sliced pears poach more quickly and evenly than a whole or half pear.

The trickiest part of this recipe may be forming the quenelle of goat cheese. Don’t fret about that. A quenelle is simply an egg-shaped portion of food. Using two spoons you should be able to do that. If not, you can use a small spatula to help shape the goat cheese into a similar shape.

A few ingredient notes for this recipe: You can replace Bosc pears with Bartlett or Anjou. I would not suggest using a smaller pear, such as Seckel. For the wine, you want to add another flavor element to the dish without overpowering the other ingredients, which is why I suggest unoaked chardonnay. Another choice would be a pinot gris or pinot grigio.

Get your ingredients assembled; it’s time to make a new and delicious appetizer or dessert.

Michele Pesula Kuegler has been thinking about food her entire life. Since 2007, the New Hampshire native has been sharing these food thoughts and recipes at her blog, Think Tasty. Visit thinktasty.com to find more of her recipes.

Deconstructed poached pear
Serves 4

2 Tablespoons sliced almonds
1 Tablespoon maple syrup
1 Bosc pear
1 cup dry white wine, such as an unoaked chardonnay
2 ounces goat cheese, room temperature
1 Tablespoon milk

Combine almonds and maple syrup in a microwave-safe bowl.
Microwave on high in 30-second increments, stirring after each.
When syrup clings to almonds and no liquid rests in the bottom of the bowl, remove from the microwave.
Carefully transfer almonds to a cutting board or piece of waxed paper, using a spoon.
Spread out the almonds to cool.
Cut pear in half, and carefully remove stem and core.
Cut each half into 10-12 thin slices.
Pour wine into a small saucepan, and place on high heat.
When wine begins to boil, reduce to a simmer and add pear slices.
Allow slices to simmer for 4 to 5 minutes or until just fork tender.
While pear slices simmer, combine goat cheese and milk in a small bowl, stirring until fully combined.
To assemble: Place 5 or 6 pear slices on a small plate.
Form a quenelle of goat cheese, using two spoons, and place next to pears.
Sprinkle maple-coated almonds over pear slices.

Photo: Deconstructed poached pear. Photo courtesy of Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Christiana Lehman

Christiana Lehman of Brookline is the owner of From Gracie’s Table (fromgraciestable.com), a line of dry rubs, homemade marinades, sweet dry mixes, candied pecans, baked goods and other items, many of which use family recipes she inherited from her late mother. Originally from Groton, Mass., Lehman moved to New Hampshire in the spring of 2020. Earlier this year, with the help of her father, Stephen, she opened Brookline’s Finest (181 Route 13, Brookline, 721-5089, find them on Facebook @brooklinesfinest), an artisan shop featuring a variety of products from vendors in and around town. It has all of her own items under the From Gracie’s Table line, as well as bagged coffees from Milford’s Union Coffee Co., breads from the Teacup Baking Co. of New Ipswich, hydroponic greens from Oasis Springs Farm of Nashua, and cheeses from Abbot Hill Creamery of Wilton. Other non-food items include candles, crafts, photography and more. Lehman also accepts special orders for her baked goods and is looking into adding premade meals to the shop in the future.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

My most used [item] is an apple peeler. It makes my job so much easier, faster and more efficient. I can do an apple pie in 10 minutes.

What would you have for your last meal?

My favorite meal on the planet is hamburgers, mashed potatoes, peas and brown gravy. It’s like Salisbury steak, but without the mushrooms. That, or beef stew. If either of those two is my last meal, I’d be happy.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Alamo [Texas BBQ & Tequila Bar in Brookline]. We go there all the time. My kids [ages 6 and 2 1/2] call it Elmo’s, which is really cute.

What celebrity would you like to see visiting your shop?

I have three. They would be Sam Heughan from Outlander, because I am a huge Outlander freak … and then [WWE wrestlers] John Cena and Triple H [Paul Michael Levesque]. … I would die if they walked in.

What is your favorite thing that you offer?

My apple pie is my favorite dessert, by far. I’ve never been able to eat an apple pie from a store in my life. … That’s my No. 1. My No. 2 is the Sweet and Smokin’ rub that I make.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Farm-to-table, for sure. Especially with Covid, everybody wants to shop local.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Chicken Parm. My chicken Parm recipe is straight from my mom and it has a lot of cheese.

“Oh my!” apple pie
From the kitchen of Christiana Lehman of From Gracie’s Table and Brookline’s Finest

2 pie crusts
8 apples
1 10-ounce container From Gracie’s Table “dry” apple pie mix (includes brown sugar, cane sugar, cornstarch, white flour, ground cinnamon, nutmeg and sea salt)
2 Tablespoons butter

Lay out the crust into the bottom of a pan. Peel and chop apples. Mix dry ingredients with apples and butter. Pour seasoned apples into the pie crust. Cover with the other pie crust and pinch the edges together. Make three small slits on the top to vent. Cook at 425 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes.

Featured photo: Christiana Lehman. Courtesy photo.

Global inspirations

Granite Restaurant & Bar reopens with new menus, executive chef

After an 18-month hiatus, Concord’s Granite Restaurant & Bar at The Centennial Hotel is back. The eatery reopened to the public on Oct. 27 for the first time since the pandemic shutdown, featuring all new locally sourced dinner, dessert and brunch menu items.

Grilled Mexican street corn.

Operations at both The Centennial Hotel and the Granite Restaurant & Bar were first suspended back in late March 2020, and while the hotel did begin welcoming back guests by mid-August of that year, its in-house dining experience remained closed. With its long-awaited reopening, general manager and sales and marketing director Laura Leslie said the restaurant’s newly appointed kitchen staff hope to take it in a new direction going forward.

“Our main goal was to change from what people might have seen as a place to go for a special occasion like a birthday or an anniversary … to somewhere that you’d want to go to eat two or three times a week, because the menu is just that approachable,” Leslie said.

Charlie Lavery has been recruited to take over the helm of the kitchen as the executive chef. Lavery attended the New England Culinary Institute in Vermont and has amassed decades of experience working in restaurants across New England since then, including the Mediterranean-inspired Ebb and Flow in Portland, Maine, and The Snowvillage Inn in the Mt. Washington Valley. He also served as chef de cuisine of LaBelle Winery in Amherst for a time.

“The menu for Granite is all about plays on international comfort foods and street foods,” Lavery said. “I’m very much inspired by world cuisine, and I think it’s important to bring that to the table because there are so many great techniques out there. … We try to use local ingredients as much as possible, and fewer of them, as opposed to lots of lower-level ingredients.”

The Mexican street corn dish, for instance, features grilled local corn with a smoky ancho chili crema, while the bluefin tuna crudo, a current menu favorite of Lavery’s, is made with Thai basil and a Meyer lemon and caper vinaigrette, served with crispy house lavash bread. Another seafood starter is the moules frites, or mussels and fries — that dish features a large bowl of Bangs Island mussels, served in stone ground mustard with bacon and house cut fries.

“I’m big into seafood. All of the seafood we serve is New England sourced, for sure,” he said.

Entrees run the gamut from a certified Angus beef burger and a jerk marinated Statler chicken breast to a grilled Berkshire heritage pork and a 12-ounce New York strip steak.

Mason jar trifle.

Other menu items are uniquely fall inspired, like the pumpkin bisque and the Parisian gnocchi with foraged mushrooms, Parmesan reggiano cheese and a local squash puree. As the seasons change, Lavery hopes to continue utilizing more products that become available.

Desserts cover every palate too, from simple options like house ice creams and sorbets to a bit more elevated delicacies, like a Meyer lemon tart with lavender honey, a spiced carrot cake trifle served in a Mason jar with cream cheese frosting, and a tart cherry bread pudding.

“The chef’s tart cherry bread pudding is just to die for,” Leslie said. “Most bread puddings are really dense and heavy, but this one is really light. The flavors are also just super well-balanced, with the tartness of the cherries and the sweetness of the whipped cream.”

While it’s always been known for its selection of wines and cocktails, Leslie said, the restaurant’s new drink menu will have more emphasis on non-alcoholic mocktails.

Breakfast and lunch are no longer being served during the week, but a brunch menu will still be available on Sundays, with items like breakfast burritos, hash and eggs with house cured corned beef hash, buttermilk biscuits and gravy, Belgian waffles and more.

The eatery’s private dining room, accommodating parties of up to 10, is also back open, while four additional private function spaces are available to rent throughout the hotel.

Granite Restaurant & Bar

Where: The Centennial Hotel, 96 Pleasant St., Concord
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m. (bar stays open until 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays), and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
More info: Visit graniterestaurant.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @centennialandgranite or call 227-9005
Reservations are strongly encouraged.

Featured photo: Parisian gnocchi. All photos by Brian Samuels Photography.

The Weekly Dish 21/11/11

News from the local food scene

• Backyard brews: Get your tickets now before they’re gone to the third annual Backyard Winterfest, happening at Backyard Brewery & Kitchen (1211 S. Mammoth Road, Manchester) on Friday, Dec. 3, from 6 to 9 p.m. Returning after a hiatus in 2020, this 21+-only event brings craft breweries from all over Derry, Londonderry and Manchester together for a night of pouring and sampling. Backyard Winterfest is an outdoor event, so dress accordingly. Tickets are $30 per person and include access to all of the beer being poured throughout the evening, as well as a four-ounce tasting glass. Visit backyardbrewerynh.com.

• More Greek eats to go: Join Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church (68 N. State St., Concord) for its next boxed Greek dinner to go, a drive-thru takeout event happening on Sunday, Nov. 21, from noon to 1 p.m. Now through Wednesday, Nov. 17, orders are being accepted for boxed meals featuring dinners of stuffed peppers, roasted potatoes, Greek salad and a roll for $15 per person. The event is drive-thru and takeout only — email [email protected] or call 953-3051 to place your order. The church is also planning a similar takeout and pickup meal featuring Greek pork souvlaki, scheduled for Jan. 16. Visit holytrinitynh.org.

• Col’s Kitchen recognized: Col’s Kitchen, a plant-based restaurant in downtown Concord, was recently named in a Top Ten Vegan Pies list compiled by PETA for its peach pie, according to a press release. The pie features a filling of local New Hampshire peaches tossed in cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom and a locally made bourbon, served in a flaky wheat crust with a streusel top. “Delicious peaches covered with a buttery brown sugar crumble make Col’s Kitchen’s vegan pie an instant holiday classic,” PETA Executive Vice President Tracy Reiman said in a statement. Col’s Kitchen, which opened in the former Willow’s Plant-Based Eatery space in mid-August 2020, is also known for its “pie shakes,” which are slices of pie blended up with milk and a few scoops of ice cream. The peach pie is one of six vegan pie options the eatery is offering for the Thanksgiving season, in addition to blueberry, cherry, apple, pumpkin and pecan.

• Mr. Mac’s goes national: Mr. Mac’s Macaroni & Cheese of Manchester, celebrating its 10-year milestone, is now offering nationwide shipping of its take-and-bake options, its owners announced in a recent press release. According to the release, the eatery had been receiving requests from customers that wanted to send Mr. Mac’s options to friends and family for years. “We are pleased to finally be able to say ‘yes,’ we can now ship, especially just in time for the holiday gift-giving season,” Mr. Mac’s founder Patrick Cain said in a statement. A dozen gourmet macaroni and cheese flavors are now available to ship, including the classic all American, the bacon cheddar mac, the jalapeno popper mac, the Philly cheese steak mac, and others. According to the release, all orders submitted on Thursdays and Fridays will be shipped the following Monday and should arrive at their destination in two or three business days. Each order is packed fresh with cool packs to keep at a safe temperature.

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