The Weekly Dish 21/02/11

News from the local food scene

Rally for restaurants: On Feb. 1, the New Hampshire Lodging & Restaurant Association announced the launch of the Rally for NH Restaurants movement, a two-month-long statewide marketing campaign throughout February and March that’s dedicated to informing restaurant customers about the ongoing challenges the industry continues to face due to the pandemic. Visit rallyfornhrestaurants.com for ideas, from the consumer’s perspective, on how to make a positive impact on New Hampshire eateries, from purchasing gift cards and ordering takeout to donating to the New Hampshire Hospitality Employee Relief Fund.

All about superfoods: Join the Derry Public Library for a virtual presentation on foods that support immune health, happening on Wednesday, Feb. 17, at 6 p.m. Hannaford dietitian Heidi Tissot will highlight different nutrient-dense foods, such as probiotics, prebiotics and antioxidants, as well as the role of vitamin C, vitamin D, zinc and omega-3 fats. She will present a live demonstration of a simple recipe and will leave time at the end for a question and answer session. Visit derrypl.org to register.

Celebration of chocolate: Ancient Fire Mead & Cider (8030 S. Willow St., Manchester) will host a Valentine’s Day weekend celebration Thursday, Feb. 11, through Sunday, Feb. 14, when it will offer release two new chocolate meads on Thursday, serve complimentary hot chocolate on Saturday and offer a “chocolate lover” snack special on Sunday. “Only the Sexy People,” its first product made with cacao, is a raspberry blossom mead with red raspberries and Haitian cacao nibs, while “Sparks Will Fly” is a Hawaiian macadamia and coffee blossom mead with habanero peppers and Ghanaian cacao nibs. Both will be available for dine-in or growlers to go. Tables can be booked and takeout orders can be placed at ancientfiremeads.com.

Paul Lynn

Paul Lynn of Raymond and his partner, Carolyn D’Amico, launched Java Joe’s (59 Route 27, Raymond, find them on Facebook @javajoesraymondnh), a drive-thru shop offering specialty coffees, teas and various breakfast items, in 2015. Lynn built the 300-square-foot drive-thru himself and roasts his own coffee beans in house, which include Colombian, Sumatran and several other varietals. Java Joe’s also features a full line of espresso drinks, including macchiatos and chai lattes, and egg and cheese sandwiches available on English muffins, bagels or croissants. (Pictured are Paul Lynn and his partner, Carolyn D’Amico. Courtesy photo).

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A perforated spatula.

What would you have for your last meal?

I’m quite a big fan of king crab legs. They’re my favorite thing to eat.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I’d have to say CR’s in Hampton. I don’t get to go there as often as I’d like, but I’ve never been disappointed. Everything is always flavorful and memorable.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from Java Joe’s?

I’d like to get the opinion of Elon Musk. He’s innovative and brilliant, and I think I would value his opinion.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

The house roast [coffee], hot and black, with sugar, and a bacon, egg and cheese croissant.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Takeout is trending, but also just trying to figure out [how to get] takeout with locally sourced, farm-to-table [items].

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I really like cooking Mexican food, like tamales and tacos.

Homemade Béarnaise sauce
From the at-home kitchen of Paul Lynn of Java Joe’s in Raymond

¼ cup white wine vinegar
½ cup dry white wine
3 sprigs tarragon
3 sprigs chervil
1 small shallot, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
2 egg yolks
Kosher salt
1½ sticks unsalted butter

Combine vinegar, wine, herbs, shallots and peppercorn and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Strain the liquid using a fine mesh strainer into a small bowl. Combine vinegar reduction, egg yolks and a pinch of salt in the bottom of a cup. Melt butter over high heat and transfer to a measuring cup. Using an immersion blender, place the head into the bottom of the cup and turn it on. Pour hot butter into the cup. Continue pouring until all butter is added (the sauce should be thick and creamy). Whisk until sauce is thickened. Whisk in chopped tarragon and chervil and serve.

Featured photo: Paul Lynn. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

The bomb

A deep dive into the steak bomb and its many variations

What is a steak bomb? Visit nearly every pizza or sub shop across New Hampshire and you’ll find this as an option on the menu. Most shop owners leave little debate as to what makes up this sub’s core ingredients: grilled steak, usually shaved, tossed together with onions, green or red peppers, and mushrooms.

“It’s really just a steak and cheese [sub] … [but] with extra toppings,” said Mikhail “Mikey” Bashagurov, owner of Mikey’s Roast Beef & Pizza in Hooksett.

Then there are variations, including the type of cheese used and the type of bread. The bomb gets really fancy when you start adding toppings, like Genoa salami or pepperoni, or hotter ingredients, like jalapenos, banana peppers or hot pepper relish.

Salami? Jalapenos?

The steak bomb sub is the flagship menu item of Danelly’s Subs and Pizza in Nashua, which has been in business since 1960. Danelly’s manager Christopher Smith said the sub, known simply as the “Bomb” on its menu, continues to be among the shop’s top-selling options.

“A lot of places that serve them with salami will shred it so that it gets mixed in with everything else,” Smith said, “but here, our Genoa salami is left as whole slices that we put on the top of the sub. What that does is it prevents the cheese from sticking to the paper when you unwrap it.”

The steak bombs available at Danelly’s come in eight-inch, 10-inch or jumbo 30-inch-sized sub rolls, delivered fresh at the shop six days a week from the Boston-area Piantedosi Baking Co. In lieu of mushrooms, the subs also feature tomatoes added to the grill.

“Once everything is shredded and all of the veggies are mixed in, then we kind of line everything up in a straight line on the roll, put some provolone cheese on top and then a layer of salami on top of that,” Smith said. “The cheese melts and the steam from the meat warms up the salami.”

Other shops don’t include salami or other less traditional toppings, but if you want them, just ask. Mikey’s Roast Beef & Pizza’s basic steak bomb is either shaved steak or steak tips, along with peppers, mushrooms, onions and American cheese, but they’ll add whatever you’d like.

“Personally, my favorite way is with cut up bacon to match the texture, and with barbecue sauce,” Bashagurov said.

Still, he said, the core ingredients are what matter most.

“It’s a very simple sandwich, so the best way to make it great is to pay attention to great ingredients,” Bashagurov said. “We use fresh veggies and fresh shaved steak. I shave mine from a New York strip loin, which is a really good cut of meat.”

Steak bombs are also one of the more popular sandwich options at each of The Common Man Roadside locations, which include two on either side of Interstate 93 in Hooksett, as well as in Plymouth and Manchester. The sub features shaved sirloin steak, American cheese, green peppers, sauteed onions and bacon bits, according to Bill Boynton, director of public relations and community engagement for Granite State Hospitality, which owns each store.

Where the sub came from, as well as how and when the term was coined, is unclear. John Constant of Constantly Pizza in Concord said that the steak bomb, even though it’s closely associated with New England, could have been an offshoot of the Philly cheesesteak sandwich.

“We do them with a seasoning blend that we make here, on a sub roll, a wrap or what’s called a homemade pocket, which is a pita bread that we make in house,” Constant said.

Your steak bomb, your way

If you prefer your subs with an extra kick, some shops, like Ciao’s Pizza in Nashua, offer “atomic” steak bombs, featuring hot pepper relish, banana and jalapeno peppers and hot sauce with the steak and cheese. Danelly’s, according to Smith, also has an option specific to its bombs known as “the works,” with mayonnaise, pickles and “hots,” or hot pepper relish.

But even if you come across a sub shop that doesn’t explicitly mention the term “steak bomb” on its menu, chances are you can still order one. That’s the beauty of being able to customize your sub, said Jeremy Nadeau, proprietor of Nadeau’s Subs, which opened in sixth location on Jan. 20 inside McLaughlin’s Country Market in Concord. Nadeau’s also has a shop in Exeter and four in Manchester, the oldest of which has been in operation since 1969.

“If you were to ask 10 people what a steak bomb is, you may very well get 10 different variations,” Nadeau said, “so instead, we just say ‘steak and cheese’ and we let you build your bomb. … We have people come in and get a steak bomb and it’s different for every person.”

Since every sub at Nadeau’s is custom made to order, there’s no official set standard for steak bombs — you can choose from shaved steak or steak tips, a sub roll, pita pocket or wrap, American, Swiss or provolone cheese, and a variety of condiments, veggies and other add-ons.

In Amherst, Bentley’s Roast Beef is another shop that doesn’t advertise any of its sub options as “steak bombs,” although you will find an option there that is similar and unique.

“We sell a lot of steak and cheese [subs], probably more than 50 a day,” Bentley’s owner Ali Ewiess said. “We actually take our fresh roast beef, shred it and cook it on the grill with green peppers, sauteed onions, melted American cheese, mayonnaise and our homemade barbecue sauce. … We don’t buy frozen steak.”

Where to get a steak bomb

While this is not a complete list of restaurants in the Granite State offering steak bomb subs, here’s a snapshot of some of the places that offer their own unique takes on the classic New England staple, from hotter options like “atomic” steak bombs, to steak bomb pizzas, calzones, omelets and more.

7 Star Pizza & Restaurant (235 Main St., Nashua, 889-8810, sevenstarpizzaandrestaurant.com) offers steak bomb subs in two sizes, with mushrooms, onions, peppers, ham, salami and pepperoni. There’s also the “cherry bomb” sub, featuring barbecue sauce and hot cherry pepper relish, and large or small steak bomb pizzas.

Atkinson House of Pizza and Roast Beef (51 Island Pond Road, No. 2172, Atkinson, 489-1879, atkinsonhouseofpizza.com) offers a steak bomb sub with grilled mushrooms, peppers, onions, cooked salami and melted American cheese. Other steak sandwich options include a steak and egg sub.

Beefside Restaurant (106 Manchester St., Concord, 228-0208, beefsidenh.com) offers a steak bomb sub on its menu, featuring four ounces of beef with onions, peppers, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and hand-cut salami. Other options include a barbecue beef brisket bomb, served with beer battered fries.

Bentley’s Roast Beef (134 Route 101A, Amherst, 883-2020, bentleysroastbeef.com) has various steak sub options, including one with char-grilled marinated steak tips.

Bill Cahill’s Super Subs (8 Kimball Hill Road, Hudson, 882-7710, find them on Facebook @billcahills) is a local shop known for its large-portioned sub options, including the steak bomb but also the Italian bomb, which has salami, hot ham, mortadella and provolone cheese, cooked on the grill with peppers and onions.

Blue House Roast Beef & Pizza (21 Birch St., Derry, 818-4363, bluehousederry.com) offers various subs on its menu, including a steak bomb but also a larger super steak bomb and an egg bomb.

Bobola’s Restaurant (9 Simon St., Nashua, 577-1086, bobolasrestaurants.com) offers a steak bomb omelet, featuring shaved steak with peppers, onions, mushrooms and your choice of cheese.

The Bridge Cafe on Elm (1117 Elm St., Manchester, 647-9991, thebridgecafe.net) offers a steak bomb quesadilla, featuring onions, peppers, mushrooms, marinated grilled steak, salsa, sour cream, black beans and cheese.

Brookside Pizza (563 Route 106 N, Loudon, 783-4550; 151 Manchester St., Concord, 224-6905; brooksidepizza.com) offers a traditional steak bomb, as well as the Brookside bomb, with sausage, pastrami, steak, onions, peppers, mushrooms, condiments and American cheese.

Ciao’s Pizza & Subs (495 Amherst St., Nashua, 889-3111, ciaospizza.com) has various “bomb” options under its sub menu, like a traditional steak bomb, and an “atomic” steak bomb with hot relish, jalapeno, banana peppers and hot sauce.

The Common Man Roadside Market & Deli (1805 S. Willow St., Manchester, 210-2801; 530 W. River Road, Hooksett; 25 Springer Road, Hooksett, 210-5305; 484 Tenney Mountain Highway, Plymouth, 210-5815; thecmanroadside.com) offers a steak bomb with shaved sirloin, American cheese, green peppers, sauteed onions and bacon bits on a sub roll. There’s also a “chicken bomb,” featuring the same ingredients, but with grilled chicken instead of steak.

Constantly Pizza (39 S. Main St., Concord, 224-9366; 108 Fisherville Road, No. 3, Penacook, 227-1117; constantlypizza.net) offers various “bomb” options on its sub menu, like a traditional steak bomb, a “chicken bomb” and a “pastrami bomb,” which has grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms, Swiss cheese and mustard. The eatery also does a steak bomb pizza with a savory cheese sauce.

Courthouse Pizza (147 W. Pearl St., Nashua, 882-7200, courthousepizzanashua.com) has a foot-long steak bomb sub, featuring onions, green peppers, bacon, salami, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Danelly’s Subs and Pizza (87 Allds St., Nashua, 882-6820, danellys.com) offers various types of “bomb” options on its sub menu, including a steak bomb, as well as a ham bomb, which replaces the salami slices with ham.

Famous Village Pizza (116 Main St., Pembroke, 485-8940, famousvillagepizza.com) offers a traditional steak bomb, as well as a sausage bomb, both of which come in two sizes.

Giovanni’s Roast Beef & Pizza (14 Broad St., Nashua, 882-5757; 379 S. Willow St., Manchester, 644-5757; 141 Main St., Salem, 894-6003; 207 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 434-9021; 209 W. River Road, Hooksett, 935-9820; giovannis.biz) has various sub options on its menu, including a steak bomb that comes in two sizes.

Great American Subs (44 Nashua Road, No. 3, Londonderry, 434-9900, greatamericansubsnh.com) offers various steak subs on its menu, including a 21-inch steak bomb, an Italian steak sub with marinara sauce and provolone cheese, and a Greek steak sub with olives, Greek dressing and feta cheese.

Hollis House of Pizza (22 Ash St., Hollis, 465-7200, hollispizza.com) offers steak bomb subs with either steak tips or shaved steak, and American, Swiss, cheddar or provolone cheese.

Hot Stone Pizzeria (174 Eddy Road, Manchester, 518-5020, hotstonepizzeria.com) offers a traditional steak bomb sub, as well as a steak bomb pizza with peppers, onions, mushrooms and cheese.

Jitto’s Super Steak (3131 Lafayette Road, Portsmouth, 436-9755, jittosrestaurant.com) has various “bomb” options, like steak bombs, “super steak specials,” with extra steak and extra cheese, and chicken bombs. Steak bomb pizzas are also available.

Joey’s Diner (1 Craftsmen Lane, Amherst, 577-8955, joeysdiner.com) offers a steak tip bomb sub with peppers, onions, mushrooms and American cheese.

Mikey’s Roast Beef & Pizza (21 Londonderry Turnpike, Hooksett, 623-0005, mikeysroastbeefandpizza.com) offers steak bombs with mushrooms, peppers, onions and American cheese, and your choice of either shaved steak or steak tips. You can make it a chicken bomb by substituting grilled chicken for the steak.

Nadeau’s Subs (776 Mast Road, Manchester, 623-9315; 100 Cahill Ave., Manchester, 669-7827; 673 Hooksett Road, Manchester, 644-8888; 1095 Hanover St., Manchester, 606-4411; 48 Portsmouth Ave., Exeter, 580-4445; 11 Eastman St., Concord, 715-1474; nadeaussubs.com), while not explicitly stating it has “steak bombs” on its menu, makes all of its subs customizable to order with your choice of veggies, condiments and other add-ons.

Naji’s Pizza (109 Route 101A, Amherst, 886-5543, najispizza.com) offers various “bomb” options on its sub menu, like a traditional steak bomb, an “atomic” steak bomb with hot relish, jalapenos, banana peppers and hot sauce, and pastrami or roast beef bombs.

Nashua House of Pizza (40 E. Hollis St., Nashua, 883-6177, nashuahouseofpizza.com) offers a “Texas-style” barbecue steak bomb on its sub menu.

Pizza 911 (108 Webster St., Manchester, 625-2201; 401 S. Willow St., Manchester, 782-5443; 742 Mast Road, Goffstown, 232-7767; pizza911nh.com) has various steak sub options; the “Bomb Squad” for example, features shaved steak, mushrooms, green peppers, onions, Genoa salami and American cheese, while “The Boyz in Blue” has shaved steak, Buffalo chicken tenders, provolone cheese and blue cheese dressing.

Pizza Express (245 Maple St., No. 2, Manchester, 647-7885, pizzaexpressmanchester.com) and Pizza Express II (865 Second St., Manchester, 222-1212, pizzaexpress2.com) offer various steak subs with Syrian bread on its menu, including a steak bomb with mushrooms, peppers, onions, cheese, bacon and salami.

Presto Craft Kitchen (168 Amory St., Manchester, 606-1252, prestocraftkitchen.com) has a steak bomb option on its “stick” sandwich menu, featuring sauteed onions, peppers, mushrooms, salami, American cheese and mayonnaise.

Professor’s Pizza and Sports Pub (290 Derry Road, Hudson, 883-0100, professorspizza.com) offers steak sandwiches with shaved steak or steak tips. The steak bomb includes American cheese, peppers, onions, mushrooms, salami and pepperoni.

The Red Arrow Diner (61 Lowell St., Manchester, 626-1118; 137 Rockingham Road, Londonderry, 552-3091; 112 Loudon Road, Concord, 415-0444; 149 Daniel Webster Hwy., Nashua, 204-5088; redarrowdiner.com) offers a steak bomb with shaved steak, or you can make it a chicken bomb by substituting grilled chicken tenders for the steak.

Rocco’s Pizza Bar and Grill (297 Derry Road, Hudson, 577-9866, roccospizzanh.com) offers steak bombs and chicken bombs featuring teriyaki chicken.

Romano’s Pizza (27 Colby Road, Litchfield, 424-0500, romanosnh.com) offers various steak sandwiches on its menu, with either shaved steak or marinated steak tips.

Simon’s Pizza & Roast Beef (2626 Brown Ave., Manchester, 623-2900, simonspizzaandroastbeef.com) offers a traditional steak bomb, as well as a teriyaki steak and cheese sub.

Sub Station (1292 Hooksett Road, Hooksett, 625-1800, substationhooksett.com) offers its signature sub known as the “Torpedo,” which features custom blended shaved steak, grilled with peppers, onions, mushrooms, cooked salami and melted American or provolone cheese.

Suppa’s Pizza (5 Lawrence Road, Salem, 328-5460, suppaspizzasalem.com) has various steak sub options, including the eatery’s signature steak bomb, and a “cherry bomb” sub with provolone cheese, barbecue sauce, hot peppers and tomato sauce. Steak bomb pizzas are also available.

Tessi’s Pizzeria (15 Ermer Road, Salem, 893-2818, tessispizzeria.com) offers a steak bomb calzone with sauteed onions, peppers, mushrooms and salami, in addition to various steak sub options, and even a chicken kabob bomb with lettuce, tomatoes, feta cheese and house dressing.

TJ’s Deli & Catering (2 Pittsburgh Ave., Nashua, 883-7770, tjsdeliandcatering.com) offers various sub options, including steak bombs, egg bombs and grilled chicken bombs.

USA Subs (66 Crystal Ave., Derry, 437-1550, usasubs.com) offers various sub options available in three sizes, like a steak bomb with peppers, onions, mushrooms, cooked salami and American or provolone cheese. You can also substitute the meat for mesquite barbecue or teriyaki steak.

Val’s Pizza and Subs (75 Route 13, Brookline, 672-9600, valspizzaandsubs.com) offers various “bomb” options on its sub menu, like steak bombs, chicken bombs or sausage link bombs.

Vintage Pizza (241 Candia Road, Manchester, 518-7800, vintagepizzanh.com) offers a traditional steak bomb with grilled onions, peppers, mushrooms and American cheese, or you can make it a chicken bomb by substituting the steak for grilled chicken.

Wilton House of Pizza (28 Forest Road, Wilton, 654-2020, wiltonhouseofpizza.com) has steak bombs and chicken bombs, both of which are available in two sizes and come with sauteed onions, peppers, mushrooms and cheese.

Yianni’s Pizza (410 S. River Road, Unit 9, Bedford, 624-5700, yiannispizzanh.com) has various steak sub options, like a steak bomb with grilled onions, mushrooms and peppers, served on an Italian roll.

“Bombs” beyond the steak sub
The term “steak bomb” doesn’t always have to be in reference to subs. Constantly Pizza, for instance, offers a steak bomb pizza that uses American cheese as the base and is topped with shaved steak, onions, peppers, mushrooms and mozzarella. You can also get it as a calzone.
In downtown Manchester, The Bridge Cafe on Elm Street features a steak bomb quesadilla on its lunch menu, which features marinated grilled steak in addition to peppers, onions, mushrooms, salsa, sour cream, cheese and black beans. Steak bomb omelets are even a menu item, at Bobola’s Restaurant in Nashua and Dracut, Mass.
If you love the combination of peppers, onions and mushrooms but want something other than steak, several eateries serve “chicken bombs,” which most often will swap it out for grilled chicken. Constantly Pizza also offers a “pastrami bomb” as a sub, pizza or calzone, which adds Swiss cheese and mustard to the mix of veggies, while Danelly’s has a “ham bomb” sub.
“The ham bomb is one that’s a bit counter-intuitive, because it replaces the salami, not the steak, but it’s an option that a lot of people like,” Smith said. “We’ve gotten orders for Italian bombs, and we do also have one customer who regularly comes in and orders a roast beef bomb.”

Featured photo: Steak bomb sub from The Common Man Roadside Deli & Market. Courtesy photo.

The Weekly Dish 21/02/04

News from the local food scene

Meals for sweethearts: Still haven’t made your Valentine’s Day plans yet? Visit hippopress.com for our annual Valentine’s Day dine-in and takeout listings at local restaurants, candy shops, bakeries and more. This year features perhaps a more diverse array of options, whether you’re looking for a romantic evening out or would prefer to order a special meal kit for two to be enjoyed in the comfort of your own home. For the most up-to-date availability, check participating eateries’ websites or call them directly.

Tastes of the Southwest: A new Southwest-inspired eatery offering tacos, burritos, bowls, appetizers and a variety of signature cocktails has arrived in Salem. Trio’s Cafe & Cantina, which opened Jan. 18 in the Breckenridge Plaza at 264 N. Broadway, gets its name from a “trio” of generations of owners, according to general manager and Salem native Julie Manzer, which includes her parents and two daughters. Manzer, who previously owned the Purple Finch Cafe in Bedford, said Trio’s showcases her love of Southern California and Tex-Mex flavors, featuring items like a chicken fajita salad bowl, tacos with stewed beef, cheese and adobo sauce, and enchilada skillets with chicken, beef or pulled pork. The drink menu includes various Southwest-themed house cocktails, as well as fresh red and white sangrias, bottled beers, wines and seltzers. Visit trioscc.com or call 458-6164.

State Liquor Commission opens Epsom outlet: The New Hampshire Liquor Commissionopened its newest Liquor & Wine Outlet store in Epsom on Jan. 21, according to a press release. The 12,000-square-foot store, located at the Epsom traffic circle, features a number of modern amenities, like temperature- and humidity-controlled wine vaults, an expanded spirits selection and oversized aisles for socially distanced shopping. According to the release, the NHLC is next set to open new stores in Littleton and New London by the spring, with another store at 850 Gold St. in Manchester by the end of the year. Visit liquorandwineoutlets.com.

Wine and dine: Join the Lakehouse Grille (281 Daniel Webster Hwy., Meredith) for a multi-course Kendall-Jackson wine dinner in its Winnipesaukee Ballroom on Thursday, Feb. 11, from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Beginning with a livestreamed overview of the evening’s featured wines with Kendall-Jackson winemaster Randy Ullom, the dinner will feature seven courses, each with wine pairings, including baby pickled beets, smoked trout, carrot tartlet, seared rabbit rillettes, a lemon, lime, vodka and gelatin refresher, braised venison short ribs, and chocolate candy egg souffle. The cost is $125 per person and registrations are required. Visit thecman.com or call 279-5221.

Jordan Reynolds

Jordan Reynolds of Concord is the owner of Col’s Kitchen (55 S. Main St., Concord, 227-6778, colsplantbased.com), a plant-based restaurant that opened last August. Named after Reynolds’ pit bull, Col’s Kitchen features what he calls an “eclectic, all-American” vegan concept, with a well-rounded plant-based menu of appetizers, sandwiches, entrees, brunch options, and desserts like pies, macarons and “pie shakes.” Especially popular as of late, he said, have been the plant-based burgers and the milkshakes, which include some non-traditional flavors like orange creamsicle, mint chocolate and maple vanilla. Col’s Kitchen also makes its own vegan sauces, which Reynolds said he hopes to begin bottling and selling in the future.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A silicone baking mat is a must-have for anybody making pie. … I’ve also recently gifted myself a really nice set of Kamikoto knives. They are really high-quality Japanese steel knives that I’m obsessed with right now.

What would you have for your last meal?

There’s a place in Cambridge, [Mass.], called Veggie Galaxy. They have these fried vegan macaroni and cheese balls that have a really good spicy aioli to go with them. I’d probably have those.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Green Elephant in Portsmouth has a really good diverse vegetarian menu. Hermanos [Cocina Mexicana in Concord] is also a great place for vegans.

What celebrity would you like to see eating at Col’s Kitchen?

Cam Newton.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

I’ve been to so many vegan restaurants around the globe, and our nachos are my favorite out of any I’ve ever had. We do them with a house vegan chili that I’ve been making for more than a decade and that I’ve taken pride in. … They also have olives, smashed avocados, a cheesy sauce and a chipotle cashew cream.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

The vegan trend is obviously big, but more than that, just the farm-to-table concept and the rustic aesthetic to go with that … has been growing for the past 10 years.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Pasta. It’s just a cheap and easy way to fill yourself up at night.

Carrot ginger soup

Courtesy of Jordan Reynolds of Col’s Kitchen in Concord

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped yellow onions
3 garlic cloves, smashed
2 cups chopped carrots
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
4 cups vegetable broth
1 cup full fat coconut milk
1 teaspoon maple syrup
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper

Heat olive oil in a large soup pot. Add onions, garlic, carrots and ginger. Cook until onions are translucent and carrots are soft. Add remaining ingredients. Bring to a gentle boil, then return to a simmer for 15 minutes. Mix with an immersion blender, topping with caramelized ginger, and enjoy.

Featured photo: Jordan Reynolds. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

Bountiful bagels

New Milford business offering NYC-inspired artisan bagels

A new business based in Milford is paying homage to the traditional New York bagel, a style known for its large size, crunchy crust exterior and pillow-like fluffiness on the inside.

Agora Bagels, which launched earlier this month, is the project of Vassilios Palaskas of Milford — he, his wife, Jennifer, and son, Deven, offer a variety of flavors of handcrafted artisan bagels, from plain, everything or cinnamon to specialty bagels of the month like Fruity Pebbles or jalapeno cheddar.

They also make several flavors of their own cream cheese spreads, or “schmears.”

“I like to call our kitchen ‘the lab,’ because we get super creative,” said Palaskas, who grew up in Merrimack and has held various positions in local restaurants, like Buckley’s Great Steaks and the Bedford Village Inn. He said he chose the name “agora,” a word meaning public gathering space or marketplace, to incorporate his Greek roots — his father came to the United States from Greece as a teenager and also owned the former Brother’s Pizza in Manchester.

Prior to the pandemic, Palaskas said, he and his brother travelled to bakeries and bagel shops across the New York City metro area to learn the secrets of making the unique style.

“Their bagels are definitely bigger, are chewy … [and have] a soft inside, but when you bite into it, there’s a crunch,” he said. “We let ours proof overnight to help them get super airy and spongy. With some of the bagels, we’ll put a little honey in with the water when it’s boiling just to give them a little extra flavor boost.”

In addition to plain, Agora Bagels regularly offers bagel flavors like blueberry and cinnamon, plus an onion bagel made with sweet Vidalia onions, a sesame bagel with black and white toasted sesame seeds, and an everything bagel that Palaskas said has by far been his top seller. Each flavor can be mixed and matched in quantities of a dozen or half-dozen, or ordered as a “Titan” bagel, in which Palaskas more than doubles the size to weigh a full pound before boiling.

The current bagel of the month is Fruity Pebbles, and Palaskas has plans to roll out a jalapeno cheddar bagel next. He’s also received requests for flavors like pumpernickel and has experimented with French toast, chocolate and peanut butter, and lemon blueberry bagels.

All orders are vacuum-sealed and shipped out every Monday and Friday. Cream cheese spreads are sold separately in eight- or 16-ounce containers and each comes with ice packs when shipping. Palaskas offers plain, veggie and honey almond flavors.

In the coming months, he hopes to begin offering a gluten-free bagel option, as well as smoked salmon lox, a bagel topping popular in New York.

Agora Bagels
To order, visit agorabagels.com, email [email protected] or find them on Facebook and Instagram. Orders are vacuum-sealed and shipped out on Mondays and Fridays. Scheduled pickups are also available until 6 p.m. for orders placed the day before.

Featured photo: Titan Bagel. Courtesy photo.

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