Restaurants take on winter

How local eateries are handling the change in season

Even as the 1750 Taphouse in Bedford broke ground on a new outdoor patio in May, managing partner Charlie Waitt knew there needed to be a solution for the colder months ahead.

“We knew this wasn’t going away anytime soon,” he said. “As we were coming out of summer, we would say the old Game of Thrones phrase ‘Winter is coming.’ We’ve got to do something.”

Waitt had heard of a few New England businesses with heated dome-shaped “igloos” during the winter, including The Envoy Hotel in Boston’s Seaport District, which has them on its rooftop. On Oct. 8, the 1750 Taphouse posted photos on its Facebook page of four heated igloos the restaurant purchased from the Florida-based company Gardenigloo USA, announcing that reservations for each would be available the following day. The post garnered more than 100,000 views overnight. Nearly a month later, Waitt’s staff is still fielding dozens of calls per week from customers wanting to make reservations inside the igloos. Others are contacting him from as far away as New York and Ohio — restaurateurs with questions of their own about how the igloos work and where they can get them for their establishments.

“I didn’t expect it to take off like it did,” Waitt said. “Weekends are jam packed, and we’re seeing weekdays being booked up too. That’s business we never would have had.”

Outdoor dining has been a saving grace for thousands of restaurants in New Hampshire during the pandemic in what has already been a tough year for the industry. Add the elements of a New England winter and many restaurateurs are now having to pivot operations even more.

“I think everyone is trying to extend dining outdoors as long as they possibly can, but once snow starts to fly and we start to get into those bitterly cold winds in December and January, I’m just not sure how much that’s going to buy you, frankly,” said Mike Somers, president and CEO of the New Hampshire Lodging & Restaurant Association.

On Sept. 24, Gov. Chris Sununu announced the release of updated guidance for the state’s restaurant industry, which included easing the six-foot rule between tables as long as dividing barriers are in place, effective Oct. 1. Solo performing artists are also allowed back inside restaurants and function centers as long as they maintain an eight-foot distance from any table.

“The approved barriers are going to be a huge game-changer for a lot of businesses and, I think, will allow for greater occupancy for some,” Somers said.

On Oct. 29, Sununu announced that, starting Oct. 31, restaurants would be required to keep a temporary database of their customers to assist the state’s contact tracing team. Basic information from dine-in patrons such as their name, phone number and day and time of arrival are to be collected from one person per party and kept for a period of 21 days. The announcement comes less than a week after potential community exposure notices issued by the state Department of Health & Human Services at restaurants in several cities and towns, including Concord, Portsmouth, Atkinson, Lincoln and Peterborough.

As the winter season approaches, local restaurateurs discuss the steps they’re taking to prepare for it, and what more they say needs to be done to help keep their businesses afloat.

Constantly adapting

Each of the 1750 Taphouse’s four igloos is set up on the patio. To keep track of the high volume of reservation requests, Waitt said, three designated times per igloo are available each evening — 4:30, 6:30 and 8:30 p.m. — for maximum parties of six. Since the eatery is open for lunch on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, there are additional reservation opportunities at 12:30 and 2:30 p.m. Parties are given approximately one hour and 45 minutes, while the remaining 15 minutes between reservations is spent thoroughly sanitizing and disinfecting the inside of the igloo. Zippered flaps are open on both sides of the igloo for cross-ventilation.

“We’re taking reservations six weeks in advance right now,” Waitt said. “We take a $50 deposit over the phone that goes on a gift card. We hold that gift card until the night of your reservation, give it to you as you walk in, and then you use that gift card toward your bill that night.”

The igloos are close to seven feet tall and about 11 feet in diameter and are made of a vinyl plastic material that feels like a thick shower curtain. Four hundred pounds of sandbags are around the outside of each dome to keep it in place.

Inside, the igloos have a remote control with adjustable LED lights in a variety of colors and patterns, as well as a space heater for you to adjust the warmth to your liking. Two of the igloos also have low-top tables and cushioned patio furniture.

“People are having a lot of fun in them,” Waitt said. “It’s a more intimate setting. … They feel like they’re hanging out in their own living room, eating dinner and just relaxing.”

A few weeks after the igloos went up, the 1750 Taphouse also added vinyl plastic dividers between several of the tables inside, and clear dividers between every few seats at the bar.

In Londonderry, 603 Brewery is also expected to have heated igloos on its patio from the same Florida company, likely starting on Nov. 13, according to marketing and events manager Morgan Kyle. Four of them were introduced last winter, just before the start of the pandemic. This year, there will be eight that will all operate on a reservation system, for maximum parties of six. Professional cleaning crews have been hired to sanitize them after every reservation.

“They’re all going to be spaced out. There will be four closer to the building, and then four more that are a little farther away in a zig-zag pattern,” Kyle said. “We’re going to have people reserve them online through the website on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.”

Other local eateries have taken unique steps to prepare for the colder weather from inside. Grill 603 in Milford, in addition to putting up plexiglass dividers between each of its booths, has installed UVC light sterilization filters into its HVAC system, designed to kill and genetically alter bacteria and viruses. Air purifiers have also been installed with UVC lights in them.

Surfaces are regularly treated with a quaternary ammonium sanitizer, which owner Eric Griffin said is a more effective and less toxic alternative to bleach.

“It was something that I had known about from a previous career,” Griffin said of the UVC filter installations. “When I used to run big yachts in Washington, D.C., where we had a touring party company, and we had put UVC light filters on our water system there.”

Although most of his patrons were understanding of the new contact tracing measures by the state, Griffin said Grill 603 experienced about a 40 percent drop in sales over the weekend following the announcement.

Tom Boucher, CEO of the Bedford-based Great New Hampshire Restaurants, which includes each T-Bones, Cactus Jack’s and Copper Door location in the Granite State, said air purifying systems to eliminate nearly 100 percent of all viruses on surfaces have been purchased. Between two and three have been installed at each restaurant, depending on its size, with one purifier covering approximately 2,000 square feet in the restaurant’s bar or dining area.

Each location is also currently in the process of building a “Santa’s Workshop” shed that will be placed outside near the entrances. Those are expected to be ready in the coming weeks.

“They’ll be heated, they’ll be lit, and we’ll have an employee in there selling gift cards during the holiday season,” Boucher said. “This way, if customers that perhaps aren’t comfortable inside to purchase a gift card, they can do it outside, and we’ll have dedicated parking spaces real close. … We just thought that it would be a nice, fun thing for people to help keep them in the spirit.”

Even before Sununu’s Oct. 29 announcement on gathering information from restaurant patrons to assist in contact tracing, Boucher said tablets have been purchased for each T-Bones, Cactus Jack’s and Copper Door location. They’re being used to record the first name, last initial and phone number of one person per party and each bar customer. The following Monday after the announcement, Boucher reported that virtually every guest over the weekend was understanding of the new measure — many had seen it on the news and were not too surprised, he said, although a few across the board were bothered by it.

“If [the Department of Health & Human Services] has a situation in some of these restaurants, they don’t have to necessarily do a broadcast release, because they’ve got the names and numbers of people that visited on whatever days they might be concerned about,” Boucher said.

Booth dividers at The Post Downtown. Courtesy photo.

Vikki Johnson, who owns The Post Downtown on Main Street in Concord and The Newell Post Restaurant on Fisherville Road, said booth dividers have been installed at both locations with the help of a carpenter. Each one is made with a wood frame that was stained to match or complement those of the existing booths, with plexiglass inserts.

Dividers have been implemented at all four Red Arrow Diner locations, according to chief operating officer Amanda Wihby, including three in Manchester, 11 in Concord, eight in Londonderry and 14 at its largest restaurant in Nashua. The outdoor tables have been removed at all of the locations except in Manchester — those have been kept for people utilizing takeout.

“The Manchester location usually seats 36 people,” Wihby said in an email. “Without the dividers, we were at 11 seats, [but] with the dividers, it added an additional eight seats.”

Some restaurants are putting the focus back on takeout rather than full indoor dining, once it becomes too cold to eat outside. During the early months of the pandemic, Revival Kitchen & Bar in Concord became a popular spot for its takeout specials, like burger and beer combos, cocktail mixes and hand-cut steak and wine pairings. Owner and chef Corey Fletcher said he plans to start increasing the social media interaction for those types of specials once again, while keeping the indoor dining capacity at around 60 to 75 percent and encouraging reservations.

Stalk, a farm-to-table bistro in Dover, recently announced it would cease all dine-in operations starting Nov. 14, and will tentatively switch to takeout only around Dec. 3. A section of the eatery’s website will also be available for people to find food-related gifts for the holidays, from marinades and spice blends to barbecue sauces, vinaigrettes, jams and more.

A “better than expected” summer

Thanks in part to a mainly dry summer and additional outdoor seating, some New Hampshire restaurants were able to rebound in sales, especially those with large patios or parking lots.

“It’s no doubt still been a challenging year all around, but I think for some folks that had limited to significant outdoor dining, the summer was much better than expected,” Somers said.

At its peak, Grill 603 had about 70 outdoor patio seats, according to Griffin, including two tables that were added this season.

“We were right about where we were last summer,” he said. “I never would have guessed that, if you had told me in May that we were going to pull out of it and have a pretty solid summer like that. It was pretty surprising.”

He said he plans to keep the patio seats open as long as he possibly can until enough significant snowfall forces its shutdown, but he’s also not ruling out reopening them if it warms back up.

“We had a run of 70-degree days in February one year, and I put patio furniture out and people were flocking to it,” he said. “So it just depends on what Mother Nature throws at us.”

Boucher said Great New Hampshire Restaurants, collectively as a company, also experienced a much better summer season from the sales of each restaurant than he was expecting. The newest T-Bones restaurant in Concord, the company’s sixth overall, opened the week after Labor Day and is now generating the greatest revenue.

“We ended our third quarter, at the end of September, down only about 10 percent year-over-year, which I was very, very pleased with,” Boucher said. “That being said, about 20 percent of our revenue is takeout … and then roughly another 20 to 30 percent, depending on the location, was outdoor dining.”

In May, each T-Bones, Cactus Jack’s and Copper Door restaurant set up rented tents in the parking lot, which added dozens more seats in addition to the existing patios. The tents came down last weekend, following a recent drop in turnout due to cold nights, but Boucher said traditional outdoor dining on patios and terraces will continue for as long as possible.

Waitt said the 1750 Taphouse has broken its own sales records multiple times in the last several weeks, and that’s not just due to all the attention it has received from the igloos.

“For us, if there’s been any silver lining from this, it was that it accelerated a lot of the plans we had and put them in motion a lot faster,” Waitt said. “We built the patio, we revamped our menu and our service model, and we brought in a lot of great new people who are just as passionate about making the restaurant successful as we are.”

At Georgia’s Northside in Concord, a takeout-only Southern kitchen and craft beer market, owner and chef Alan Natkiel has enjoyed a massive increase in food sales compared to last year.

He initially closed for nearly three weeks before reopening in April with a retooled business model, implementing an online-only ordering system through the restaurant’s website and installing a pickup counter out in front of the door.

For Natkiel, being transparent with his customers is absolutely essential in the throes of a pandemic — that’s why every several weeks he’ll put out a post on Facebook updating them with his service protocols. He and each one of his four other staff members also take turns getting coronavirus tests every two to three weeks on a rotating basis.

Downtown dining

Expanded outdoor dining on public sidewalks and parking spaces downtown became a major lifeline this summer for many city restaurants in New Hampshire. Most of these regulations are set to end this month, but despite the onset of the winter season, a few municipalities have voted on or are considering extending it even further for interested businesses.

In downtown Manchester, the jersey barriers that accommodated outdoor seating space for restaurants and other businesses along Elm Street were scheduled to be picked up this week.

But according to Lauren Smith, chief of staff for Mayor Joyce Craig, the Board of Mayor and Aldermen voted late last week in favor of extending them for those that want them. Most have elected to keep the barriers, she said, with the exception of Boards & Brews and The Shaskeen Irish Pub & Restaurant. Each business that is keeping the barriers will be responsible for removing snow from inside the enclosed space from the street, but the city’s Highway Department will still plow snow from the sidewalks.

Nashua’s parking restrictions to accommodate outdoor dining on Main Street are currently set to expire on Nov. 15, but according to city economic development director Tim Cummings, there have been talks to possibly get them extended.

Concord’s outdoor dining permits are also valid through Nov. 15. While city health and licensing officer Gwen Williams said no extensions have been discussed, the city council has been working with the Greater Concord Chamber of Commerce to award grants of up to $1,500 to restaurants to help offset any expenses related to increasing capacity indoors, such as dividers.

Chamber president Tim Sink said the grants come from money that was going to be used for the city’s Fourth of July fireworks display, which was canceled.

“The council recognized that the end of outdoor dining in Concord put restaurants in a tough position,” Sink said. “[The fireworks cancellation] created a small pot of money for something like this, and so they contacted the Chamber to see if if they’d like us to manage the grants.”

Within the first couple of days, Sink said he already received multiple inquiries from Concord restaurants. Grant applications through the Chamber’s website are available through Nov. 20.

More aid needed

Although Boucher did acquire Paycheck Protection Program [PPP] funds back in April, Great New Hampshire Restaurants did not qualify for either of the state’s Main Street Relief Funds, even as it approaches half a million dollars in extra expenses since the start of the pandemic.

“It’s not just masks and sanitizer,” he said. “It’s the tents that we’ve rented, the tables and chairs, the propane heaters, the dividers, the amount of signage we’ve had to print, the amount of times we’ve had to change our menu and our website, and the labor that’s gone into all of that. … These are all expenses that never existed before.”

Boucher said he and members of two other local restaurant groups — The Common Man and the 110 Grill — are working with state officials to propose a new fund, which would target businesses that did not get any relief from the first two rounds, and that have accrued Covid-19-related expenses in excess of $100,000.

“This winter, I’ll be grateful if we’re down 20 to 25 percent, but we won’t make money doing that,” he said. “We’ll probably barely break even, and some stores will lose money.”

According to a nationwide survey conducted by the National Restaurant Association in September, 40 percent of restaurant operators think it is unlikely their establishment will still be in business in six months if there are no additional relief packages from the federal government.

“I think New Hampshire has fared a little better than some other states that are still under lockdown,” Somers said, “but without that federal assistance, whether it’s another round of PPP or another program, some of these businesses are not going to make it to the spring.”

On Oct. 1, the U.S. House of Representatives passed the $2.2 trillion Health and Economic Recovery Omnibus Emergency Solutions (HEROES) Act 2.0, which includes a $120 billion grant program to support restaurants with fewer than 20 locations by helping to cover cost of rent, utilities and employee salaries. According to Jenni Muns, a spokeswoman for Rep. Annie Kuster, who is one of more than 200 co-sponsors of the bill, the grants would total the difference between a restaurant group’s 2019 revenues and expected 2020 revenues. The bill remains part of ongoing negotiations with the Senate.

Featured photo: The 1750 Taphouse in Bedford recently installed four heated dome-like “igloos” on its patio for you to enjoy its food outside all winter, like the tater kegs with house beer cheese, crispy bacon, Parmesan and scallions. Photo by Matt Ingersoll.

The Weekly Dish 20/11/05

News from the local food scene

Wine & chocolate: Join Appolo Vineyards (49 Lawrence Road, Derry) for its next chocolate and wine weekend, featuring Kevin Miller of KRM Chocolates in Salem. From Friday, Nov. 6, through Sunday, Nov. 8, reservations are available to taste up to five Appolo wines along with a box of KRM Chocolates. The socially distanced tastings will be held outdoors. Pairings are $15 per person and advance registration is required — visit appolovineyards.com/book-online to book your designated time.

Turkey talk: The Hollis Social Library will present a virtual demonstration on Zoom on Monday, Nov. 9, at 6 p.m. featuring Chef Liz Barbour of The Creative Feast. Barbour will lead a discussion about the many types of turkeys available and the ways to prepare them for a Thanksgiving dinner, and then demonstrate two of her favorite side dishes. Visit hollislibrary.libcal.com to pre-register the event for free. Virtual attendees will receive a confirmation email with a link to the live webinar. Zoom accounts are not required to access the event.

Meet The Kitchen Witch: Sweet Hill Farm (82 Newton Road, Plaistow) will host a socially distanced book signing on Saturday, Nov. 7, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., featuring Dawn Hunt, a.k.a. “The Kitchen Witch,” of Cucina Aurora in Salem. Hunt will be presenting her new cookbook, A Kitchen Witch’s Guide to Recipes for Love & Romance, which explores food’s roles in self-love and interpersonal relationships with personal anecdotes, spiritual techniques and more than 50 original recipes and illustrations. Featured foods include cinnamon crumb pound cake, avocado chocolate mousse, pomegranate mimosas with muddled raspberries, stuffed zucchini pinwheels, pork loin roast with cherries and red wine and much more. Admission to the signing is free, but masks are required for attendees. Visit cucinaaurora.com.

NHLC recognized: The New Hampshire Liquor Commission was recently named one of the top 10 retailers in the country by Beverage Dynamics magazine, according to a press release. The magazine recognizes off-premise retailers, such as liquor stores or supermarket chains, that demonstrate innovation and superior beverage alcohol industry knowledge. The state Liquor Commission was featured alongside the other top winners in the July/August issue of the magazine. The Top 100 Retailer Awards were also presented to winners at the fourth annual Beverage Alcohol Retailers Conference, which was held virtually this year, on Sept. 15.

Playa Bowls comes to Manchester: Playa Bowls, a New Jersey-based chain offering açaí bowls, poke bowls, smoothies and juices, opened its first location in New Hampshire on Oct. 31 at the North End Shops at Livingston Park (555 Hooksett Road, Manchester), according to a press release. Its 99th store location overall, Playa Bowls is open for indoor dining and takeout, as well as curbside pickup through DoorDash, Postmates and Grubhub. Visit playabowls.com.

In the kitchen with Gary “Diz” Window

Gary “Diz” Window of Manchester is the head chef and owner of Diz’s Cafe (860 Elm St., Manchester, 606-2532, dizscafe.com), a downtown restaurant offering scratch-made comfort foods and home-cooked meals that opened in late May. Diz’s Cafe’s offerings includes appetizers, soups and salads, burgers and sandwiches, and entrees like meatloaf, chicken Parmesan and fish & chips, as well as a customizable “build-your-own” menu of at least one protein and up to three fresh sides, from Brussels sprouts to cauliflower rice. An industry veteran, Window got his start at the former Angelo’s Italian Restaurant on Hanover Street at the age of 16, first as a dishwasher and later as a line cook. He would go on to graduate from UNH with a degree in hotel administration and work at several other establishments in New Hampshire and Maine over the years. Diz’s Cafe is his first restaurant.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

The steam kettle. We need it to make the cheese sauce for our macaroni and cheese … [and] we cook the cauliflower rice in it.

What would you have for your last meal?

A grilled rib-eye steak and Brussels sprouts, with a craft beer.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Piccola [Italia Ristorante in Manchester]. I’ll usually get a chicken Parm there.

What celebrity would you like to see eating in your restaurant?

It will never happen, but for me, it would be Eric Clapton. More reasonably, I think, would be Adam Sandler.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

I’ll go with the Southwest chicken sandwich, which is one of our top sellers. You have the Sriracha cream, the guacamole, the bacon and the fried chicken, and it just kind of all goes together.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right nw?

I would say it’s that people are really interested in knowing what they’re putting in their body now more than ever. … One of the things we do here is really try to accommodate everyone’s dietary wishes, [like] keto or vegetarian.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

I really enjoy cooking outside on the grill, like steak tips, marinated chicken, asparagus, that kind of stuff. … We’re getting to the end of the season for that, but we usually go as long as we can until there’s snow.

Homemade guacamole
From the kitchen of Gary “Diz” Window of Diz’s Cafe in Manchester
12 avocados
1½ cups onions, diced
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
½ cup cilantro, chopped
½ cup lime juice
¼ cup jalapenos, minced
½ cup tomatoes, diced
Salt to taste
Combine all ingredients except avocados and mix thoroughly by hand. Add avocados and mash.

Food & Drink

Summer farmers markets
Concord Farmers Market is Saturdays, from 8:30 a.m. to noon, on Capitol Street in Concord (near the Statehouse), now through Oct. 31. Visit concordfarmersmarket.com.
Contoocook Farmers Market is Saturdays, from 9 a.m. to noon, at 896 Main St. in Contoocook, outdoors through Oct. 31. Find them on Facebook @contoocookfarmersmarket for updates.
Milford Farmers Market is Saturdays, from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., at 300 Elm St. in Milford (across the street from the New Hampshire Antique Co-op), now through Nov. 21. Visit milfordnhfarmersmarket.com.
Salem Farmers Market is Sundays, from 10 a.m. to noon, at Salem Marketplace (224 N. Broadway). Visit salemnhfarmersmarket.org.

Featured Photo: Gary “Diz” Window

Himalayan eats

Annapurna Curry & Sekuwa House opens in Manchester

Chicken chili. Photo courtesy of Annapurna Curry & Sekuwa House.

A new eatery offering authentic Nepalese and Indian dishes — from momos and curries to harder-to-find options like sekuwa, or skewered meat with aromatic spices — has opened in Manchester.

Annapurna Curry & Sekuwa House is a full-service restaurant and bar that opened its doors on Oct. 17 in the former space of the Glow Bar on Hanover St.

According to chef and co-owner Joshua Ghising, Annapurna gets its name from the series of mountain peaks in the Himalayas in north-central Nepal, not far from the district where he was born. After several years working in Indian and Nepalese restaurants, Ghising, who moved to the United States in 2018, said he was encouraged to open his own by several friends and family members who loved his cooking. He found the space that would become Annapurna in late 2019 and began renovations the following February.

“[The menu is] … a combination of Nepalese and Indian food,” Ghising said. “We have tandoori, chicken tikka masala [and] madras. … That is all Indian food, and then for Nepalese food, we have momos and sekuwa.”

Momos, or Nepalese dumplings, are available per orders of 10, steamed or fried and stuffed with chicken, pork or vegetables. Chicken and pork momos also come with a tomato sesame sauce. Other appetizer options include chicken, beef or vegetable chow mein; spicy Nepalese style beef or chili with onion, green pepper and tomato; aaloodam (fried and boiled potatoes with spices); and marinated chicken wings or deep-fried pork ribs with a garlic-ginger paste.

Sekuwa, which can be prepared with chicken, pork, goat or any mixed combination of the three, is one of the dishes unique to Annapurna, according to Ghising.

“Sekuwa is very famous in Nepal,” he said. “We marinate [the meat] with typical Nepalese spices … and then we grill it.”

Annapurna also offers a half-dozen types of biryani (meats or veggies served over basmati rice with cashews and cilantro) and naan, or handmade leavened white bread. In addition to plain naan, there’s a garlic naan with herbs and spices, a stuffed naan with potatoes and spiced herbs, and a sweet peshwari naan stuffed with coconut.

Many of the eatery’s main course dishes feature some variation of chicken, lamb, goat, seafood or vegetable curry. They can be ordered in a thick curry sauce (including with boneless chicken or goat chunks, or jumbo shrimp); korma, or a house sauce with cashews, almonds and light cream; and madras, a hot coconut, red chili and hot mustard sauce with ginger and fresh herbs.

Annapurna has some sweeter menu items, too. The lassi, for instance, is a smoothie-like drink featuring yogurt, milk and sugar that’s blended with mangos, bananas and strawberries. On the dessert menu, items include mango- or chocolate-flavored ice cream; gulab jamun, which feature milk dumplings soaked in rose-flavored sugar syrup; and ras malai, or fried milk pastries that are soaked in honey and saffron.

A full bar is in the rear of the restaurant, featuring four beers on tap and several more available by the bottle, as well as a few wines and mixed drinks. Ghising said takeout orders are also accepted, with free deliveries within a four-mile radius.

Annapurna Curry & Sekuwa House
Where: 123 Hanover St., Manchester
Hours: Daily, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and 5 to 9:30 p.m. (open until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday)
More info: Visit annapurnahouse.com, find them on Facebook @annapurnacsh or call 232-7145

Featured photo: Pork sekuwa. Photo courtesy of Annapurna Curry & Sekuwa House.

Drinks for everybody

Drinks with John Fladd

Cocktails and mocktails created for flavor-seekers of all ages

The Dad: A new father does a fair bit of daydreaming in the early days, largely about the bonding experiences he hopes to have with his kid as they grow up — going to football games, field-dressing a deer, rebuilding a carburetor — that sort of thing.

Life often takes a jagged left turn, though, and for men like me at least, those stereotypical father-child moments are more elusive than you’d think. Being the sort of man I am, and the excellent but offbeat teenager my child has grown into, most of these experiences are off the table.

We are vegetarians and ambivalent about the outdoors, so the deer are probably safe.

Someone reminded me the other day that cars don’t even have carburetors anymore, which is frankly a relief, because I’m not sure what a carburetor is, though it sounds vaguely threatening.

And the closest The Teen and I would ever get to the going-to-a-game experience would be if we could score tickets to an off-Broadway, all-drag reboot of The Music Man.

So I guess what I’m trying to say is that you take your bonding experiences where you can find them.

Which is why I was happily gob-smacked recently when The Teen asked if they could make me a cocktail. I suggested that they make a non-alcoholic one, so they could taste it as they went along and develop something that they liked too. This led to several actual back-and-forth conversations and a week-long project that involved a frankly stunning lack of eye-rolling and muttering under the breath on both our parts.

These are the results of that project: The Teen has developed a set of non-alcoholic beverages, which I have then adapted for more adult tastes.

The Teen: There’s this idea that non-alcoholic drinks shouldn’t be super-complicated or fancy and I don’t like that because I am both super-complicated and fancy. There’s so much culture built around bars and drinking that I don’t think other types of drinks should be ignored. Non-alcoholic drinks should have a certain sophistication, a certain je ne sais quoi to them. I have tried to make drinks that are delicious and have a sense of style to them.

The Drinks

Non-Alcoholic Cocktail No. 1: Whispers of Ogygia

Whispers of Ogygia. Photo Courtesy of John Fladd.

½ oz. fresh-squeezed lemon juice

½ oz. non-alcoholic blue curacao

½ oz. simple syrup

2 sprigs (~ 1.5 grams) fresh mint

5 ¼-inch slices (~ 25 grams) cucumber

6 ice cubes

3 oz. extremely bubbly sparkling water, like Topo Chico Mineral Water

1. Add the first six ingredients to a cocktail shaker. (I like the kind with the built-in strainer in the top.) Shake until very cold.

2. Strain into a rocks glass, over more ice.

3. Add the sparkling water and stir gently.

4. Garnish with a cucumber wheel.

The Teen: This drink has a very islandy/oceany feel to it. The color is sort of a bougie Mediterranean blue. In Greek myths Ogygia was the island where the nymph Calypso was exiled. It’s the island where Odysseus was shipwrecked. This drink tastes sweet and fresh and windy, in a way. The citrus of the lemon is a good bridge between the cucumber and the mint.

Dad’s Alcoholic Riff No. 1 – Calypso’s Icy Gaze

Calypso’s Icy Gaze. Photo Courtesy of John Fladd.

The Dad: Greek myths are really rough on women. Calypso was imprisoned on Ogygia because her father was the titan Atlas, who had opposed the gods. Calypso herself wasn’t involved; this is just the sort of thing that happened to female relatives of jerks in the myths. (If you really feel like shaking your fist at the gods, look up what they did to Pasiphaë.)

According to The Odyssey, Odysseus was shipwrecked on Ogygia and Calypso found him so beautiful that she kept him there for years, before he managed to “escape.” Clearly, we are relying on his version of events here.

Calypso is not here for your nonsense.

2-3 sprigs (1.5-2 grams) fresh mint

4 slices (~25 grams) cucumber

1 oz. lemon juice

1½ oz. very cold vodka

A “slip” of traditional, alcoholic blue curacao

~ 1 oz. dry ice (optional, but highly cool)

1. Muddle the cucumber and mint in the bottom of a cocktail shaker.

2. Add ice, lemon juice and vodka. Shake vigorously. (I like to shake it really hard, until I hear the ice splinter. A lot of bartenders will tell you that this is not a good idea, because the ice fragments will dilute your drink too much, but that’s actually the effect we’re going for here.)

3. Strain into a martini glass. (See below.)

4. Pour a “slip” of blue curacao down the side of the glass. It will puddle in the bottom and give this drink a blue/green layered look.

5. Smile and take a picture of the drink, because it looks extremely fancy.

6a. At this point you can drink this and have a perfectly civilized cocktail. It will start out a little acidic and bracing from the lemon juice, then get sweeter as you work your way down to the blue curacao. If you would like it a little sweeter, add a tiny bit more curacao. The term “slip” is extremely vague and bartenders tend to use it as a code for “Use your own judgment.”

6b. If you decide to add dramatic flair to this cocktail, add a nugget of dry ice to it. It will bubble and churn and mist will flow over the side of the glass, making it a very good drink for Halloween. The bubbling and churning will mix the drink, turning it a very assertive green. Like the will of Calypso. [Editor’s note: Dry ice in cocktails is a whole to-do that requires some dry ice education and safety steps so that it doesn’t cause injury. The Betty Crocker website (bettycrocker.com) offers a good explanation.]

A note on cocktail strainers: There are all sorts of devices designed to help a home drink-maker strain a cocktail. The traditional tool involves hooks and a spring and intimidates me. Some cocktail shakers have an internal strainer in them. I find it takes a long time to strain some drinks through one of these. Recently, I have started using an inexpensive strainer that is designed to fit over the drain in a kitchen sink. It is extremely inexpensive, it works well, it is easy to clean, and it fits exactly over the rim of a martini glass.

Non-Alcoholic Cocktail No. 2 – A Cascade of Roses

A Cascade of Roses. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The Teen: At first, I wanted to make a drink that was similar to a Cherry Airhead, one of those really sour candies. I really like a combination of sweet and sour. Getting this right was a long and arduous process of mixing and drinking and mixing and drinking and mixing and drinking. I used citric acid because it seemed like a good way of getting the sour flavor I was looking for without adding any liquid. It ended up a little intense, but the seltzer spread the flavor out a lot and gave it some sparkle.

When I was done making this, I wanted a name that referenced its rosy red color, so I decided to call it “A Cascade of Roses.” After thinking about it a while, I decided to add rose water to make the flavor more rosy. Rose water can be tricky to use, but six drops is just about enough. I think it adds a subtle, background flavor.

1 oz. cherry syrup – as artificial as possible

½ oz. maraschino cherry juice

¾ teaspoon citric acid (available in many grocery stores this time of year, because of canning, or online)

6 ice cubes

6 drops rose water

5 oz. plain seltzer

Maraschino cherries for garnish

1. Combine the first five ingredients in a shaker. Shake until mixed and cold – about a minute.

2. Pour into a wine glass.

3. Add seltzer and stir gently.

4. Garnish with maraschino cherries.

Dad’s Alcoholic Riff No. 2 – Les Cerises du Roi

Les Cerises du Roi. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The Dad: I love the idea of a deeply cherry-flavored cocktail. The trick is to try to avoid making it taste too much like candy. In the end, I had some good luck in making my own cherry syrup (see below), but the resulting drink was a little bit frou-frou. After thinking it over, I decided to reclassify it in my mind as “rococo” and really embrace the over-the-top effeteness of it.

1 oz. homemade cherry syrup

1 oz. fresh squeezed lime juice

1 oz. kirsch

3 oz. plain seltzer

Upscale cocktail cherries for garnish

1. Shake the first three ingredients in a cocktail shaker, with ice.

2. Pour into an extremely froofy glass – the froofiest you can find.

3. Add seltzer and stir gently.

4. Garnish with several upscale cocktail cherries. I like the Bada Bing brand.

Cherry Syrup:

1 part (by weight) frozen cherries (the ice crystals in the cherries will break up the cell walls and give you more juice)

1 part (by weight) sugar

(A pound of frozen cherries and ¾ cup sugar will give you ~1½ cups of syrup.)

1. Put the cherries and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat. As the cherries start to thaw, they will start giving off juice. Stir to combine.

2. When the cherries are thoroughly warmed up, mash them with a potato masher. It won’t matter if they have pits in them. The masher is a democratic tool and will mash any fruit regardless of its pit status.

3. Bring to a simmer and cook until the sugar is completely dissolved – three to four minutes.

4. Strain into a jar, label and store in your refrigerator.

Non-Alcoholic Cocktail No. 3 – Reverse Hot Chocolate

Reverse Hot Chocolate. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The Teen: This was not my idea. I want no part of this.

The Dad: I am a passionate ice cream maker. One of my favorite flavors of ice cream from when I was a kid is peppermint stick. It’s really hard to find anymore, so once a year or so I make my own. As I cook the base for the ice cream, dissolving peppermint candies in milk and cream, I always think how much I would like to drink a cup of it on a rainy fall day —never mind the ice cream.

This is a spin on that.

2 cups whole milk

1 cup half and half

75 g. crushed starlight mint candies (about 15 candies, once you’ve unwrapped them)

1. Unwrap and crush the candies. I use a hand-held vegetable chopper – the type with the plunger on top that you pound with your fist, often with a wild look in your eyes. If you decide to use your food processor to chop these up, you might want to freeze the candies first, so the dust doesn’t heat up too much in your food processor and get gummy and inconvenient.

2. Add all three ingredients to a small saucepan and heat until the candy fragments have dissolved, but before the mixture boils (about 200 degrees). It will turn a delicate shade of shell-pink.

3. Pour into mugs and serve.

Makes two to three servings.

Dad’s Alcoholic Riff On His Own Drink – Pink Cocoa

Pink Cocoa. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The Dad: The classic sitting-around-in-a-ski-lodge-with-your-leg-in-a-cast drink is hot cocoa, with a generous slug of peppermint schnapps in it. I’ve taken that and turned it on its head. This is a mug of hot peppermint, with a generous slug of chocolate in it.

10 oz. Reverse Hot Chocolate (see above)

1 oz. chocolate vodka (see below)

½ oz. crème de cacao

1. Add all three ingredients to a mug.

2. Stir.

3. Drink and pretend to be classy.

Chocolate Vodka

750 ml 80-proof bottom-shelf vodka (The chocolate flavors of the finished infusion will cover any subtle flavors you might get from an up-market vodka. You will be filtering this, which will largely remove any rough flavors from your discount vodka. Save your money for all the frou-frou, exotic ingredients The Teen and I have asked you to buy for our other recipes.)

½ cup (about 2 oz.) roasted cocoa nibs

1. Combine in a large jar with an airtight lid. If you worry about such things, place a small piece of wax paper between the mouth of the jar and the lid.

2. Shake vigorously.

3. Store somewhere cool and dark for four days. I put it on top of the freezer in our basement laundry room. That way, I remember to shake the jar every time I go downstairs to switch the laundry over or get something from the freezer.

4. Oh, yeah — shake two or three times per day.

5. After four days, filter into a bottle, through a coffee filter in a funnel. This will take longer than you think, so just walk away and let the filter do its job. It knows what it’s doing. If you stand there, watching it, you will be tempted to play around with it. You’ll probably want to do this in stages. Just walk away and watch a round of The Great British Baking Show or something, then come back and pour a little more into your filter, until you’ve filtered the whole jar.

6. Make sure to label your bottle.

Non-Alcoholic Cocktail No. 4 – Unnamed Passion Fruit Beverage

Unnamed Passion Fruit Beverage. Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The Teen: I really like the flavor of passion fruit. I like how sour it is but still mouth-wateringly fruity. That is my favorite combination of flavors in the whole world. Passion fruit has a juicy quality that just exactly suits me. I’ve tried to make this drink passion fruit-forward, but not soda-like.

5 oz. passion fruit green tea, iced (I like Lipton’s Orange Passionfruit Jasmine Green Tea, made with four tea bags per pitcher.)

1 oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice

½ oz. simple syrup

5 ice cubes

1 oz. commercial passion fruit cocktail (This is something you have walked past a zillion times in the supermarket, but you’ve probably never noticed. It comes in a cardboard container. It’s in the fruit juice aisle at the store, probably on the top shelf, with pear nectar and stuff.)

1. Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake until extremely cold. This may dilute the drink a little, but that is what you’re going for here — subtlety, Dad!

2. Pour into a Collins glass, perhaps with extra ice.

3. Drink this on the porch, with tasty snacks.

Dad’s Alcoholic Riff No. 4 – “What Are They Going To Do? Fire Me?”

“What Are They Going To Do? Fire Me?” Photo courtesy of John Fladd.

The Dad: The Teen has opted for subtlety in their final drink. That’s marvelous. There is a time for gentle and subtle. Like a delicate butterfly lighting on your finger.

Other times call for a brute confrontation with Reality. Like an angry buzzard crashing into you from a great height.

This is one of those drinks. It should be drunk in the largest, most garish glass you have. That shrunken-head tiki glass you thought was so cool on vacation that time, that you’ve never used? Break that baby out. It’s game time.

4 oz. passion fruit cocktail

2 oz. dark rum. I like Myers’ for this.

1 oz. crème de banana (Because bananas and passion fruit get along very well, like friends who often make questionable decisions together.)

3 oz. plain seltzer

lime wedge for garnish

1. Add passion fruit cocktail, rum, crème de banana, and ice to a cocktail shaker. It doesn’t really matter how you are shaking this particular drink, but if you’ve chosen this one, you’ll probably be in the mood to be pretty brutal about it.

2. Pour into your large, garish glass.

3.Add the seltzer and stir gently, if you can.

4. Garnish with a lime wedge and maybe a paper umbrella, if your trembling fingers allow.

The Weekly Dish 20/10/29

News from the local food scene

Fired up: Learn to make fire cider at the Beaver Brook Nature Center’s Brown Lane Barn (52 Brown Lane, Hollis) during one of two workshops on either Thursday, Nov. 5, from 6:30 to 8 p.m., or Sunday, Nov. 8, from 1 to 2:30 p.m. Fire cider is a New England traditional remedy and preventive medicine made with apple cider, honey, garlic, onions, ginger and horseradish, an immune stimulant that’s also a great added flavor to salads, stir-fries and veggies. Participants of each class will learn the history of vinegar and honey remedies, then taste and make fire cider to take home. Ingredients are provided — you bring your own grater, cutting board, knife, vegetable peeler and measuring cup. Masks or face coverings are required. The cost is $22 for Beaver Brook Association members and $25 for non-members. Visit beaverbrook.org.

Bowlful of deliciousness: A new takeout eatery offering made-to-order rice and pasta bowls prepared with fresh ingredients is now open on Manchester’s east side. Bowlful held its grand opening on Oct. 20, in a takeout kitchen space inside Nickles Market (1536 Candia Road, Manchester). Its menu consists of various rice and pasta bowls inspired by the travels of owner Gerard “Jay” Desmarais — there’s a cilantro lime rice bowl with chipotle black beans, green chili corn, fresh salsa and sour cream and the option to add either chicken or shrimp; a bacon fried rice bowl with broccoli, a teriyaki glaze and a sprinkle of sesame seeds, also with the chicken or shrimp option; and a ground pork bibimbap bowl with sauteed mushrooms, carrot ribbons, sweet sesame sauce and a drizzle of Sriracha. Other non-rice options include a macaroni and cheese bowl, and a spicy pork sausage bowl with spaghetti noodles and a garlic butter broccoli saute. Bowlful is open Tuesday through Saturday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and from 4:30 to 7 p.m. Visit thebowlful.com.

Taco Time restaurant coming to Milford: The Milford-based Mexican food truck Taco Time recently announced its plans to open a brick and mortar location. Taco Time Cocina & Cantina Mexicana is expected to open later this year at 11 Wilton Road in Milford, in the former space of the Rivermill Tavern. Rosana Vargas and her husband, Reymundo “Rey,” launched Taco Time, specializing in tacos, taco salads, burritos, quesadillas, nachos, chilis and other fresh Mexican options, in 2018. Follow them on Facebook @tacotimenh for updates on the new location’s grand opening.

Italian specials: Join the Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford) for an Italian Restaurant Week in its dining room. From Nov. 1 through Nov. 14, the eatery will feature a three-course prix fixe menu of popular Italian dishes from different regions throughout the country, with your choice of one of several options for each course. The cost is $65 per person and reservations in advance are strongly recommended. Visit bedfordvillageinn.com.

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