Category: Food

The many faces of chardonnay

This ubiquitous grape can be a product of its upbringing

Chardonnay may have reached its peak in the 1980s as a “wine of choice,” where a number of labels were sold as bladder boxes, housed in the household refrigerator, ready to be savored after a long day of trials and tribulations. However, this grape should not be slighted. It is, after all, one of the most widely planted of grape varieties. With over 500,000 acres planted, virtually worldwide, it may be considered the entrée to grape-growing and the production of wine.

Its recognized origins lie in Burgundy, France, but the grape’s true origins are a bit clouded. Tales trace it to the Crusaders bringing the grape to Europe from indigenous vines in Cyprus. Modern DNA research suggests chardonnay is the result of crossing two indigenous varieties, pinot noir and gouais blanc, a Roman grape, first found in Croatia. Whatever the true source of the grape, it has been grown and cross-bred so that as of 2006, 34 clonal varieties of chardonnay could be found in vineyards throughout France. The Dijon clones are bred for their adaptability, and the New World varieties, such as Mendoza, produced some of the early California chardonnays.

Why is there this interest in chardonnay? There are some, including my wife, who are true believers in “ABC” (Anything But Chardonnay). However, these same “non-imbibers” will drink heartily of white Burgundy or Champagne! This is simply because many consider chardonnay to be a neutral grape, a chameleon that fully expresses its terroir, the climate and soils of where it is grown. Chardonnay has an affinity to three soil types: chalk, clay and limestone, all prevalent in Champagne and Burgundy. California, with its volcanic soils and climate warmer than France, produces a wine with tropical and citric notes. The story of chardonnay is long and complex in each of the regions wherein the grape is grown and the wine is produced.

Our first wine, a 2021 Josh Cellars Chardonnay (originally priced at $16.99, and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets until Sept. 25 for $11.45), is a Lake County California chardonnay. The color is light straw. To the nose there are notes of citrus and honey. These carry through to the tongue, with hints of peaches and the slightest touch of leather given by some exposure to oak. The flavor lingers on the palate with a fresh and clean finish. You could describe this as a classic California buttery chardonnay. This is an excellent value and would pair well with mild soft cheeses or rotisserie chicken.

Our second wine, a 2021 Maison Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay (originally priced at $15.99, and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets until Sept. 25 for $12.95). is a classic Cote d’Or White Burgundy wine. With grapes harvested from the Maconnais region of Burgundy, Louis Jadot produces some of the most prestigious Premier and Grand Cru wines. With its light straw color and floral notes to the nose, coupled with apple and citrus, this is a decidedly different chardonnay from the Josh Cellars. To the tongue, the taste is full of lemon curd or tangerine, but these flavors are coupled with the minerality of the chalk and limestone soils of Burgundy. This wine is 100 percent unoaked chardonnay to maximize the complex and vibrant nose and flavors it offers up. It can be sipped as an aperitif or paired to shellfish or goat cheese.

Our third wine, Pommery Brut Royal Champagne (originally priced at $46.99, and on sale at the New Hampshire Liquor & Wine Outlets until Sept. 25 for $39.99), is a blanc de blanc Champagne. That is, it is made of 100 percent chardonnay grapes sourced from 40 selected villages in the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims areas of the Champagne region. The color is pale yellow with faint green highlights. To the nose, it is lively with that touch of brioche dough so closely linked to the yeast of the double fermentation. To the tongue the taste is rich and rounded, smooth and not dry with touches of apples. This is a wine for toasting, to be shared to acknowledge a special event.

Three examples of chardonnay that are so different from each other, and all to be enjoyed for their very different qualities. Give them a try!

Featured photo. Courtesy photo.

Baked cauliflower tots

I am all for making healthier versions of snacks, if they are still delicious. A great example is these cauliflower tots. They definitely deliver on crunch and flavor, while still being a fairly healthy snack.

This recipe has a lot of important notes, so let’s get right to them. I make these with raw cauliflower. You can use riced cauliflower, but the amount needed will be less. I’m guessing it will be closer to two cups when riced, but you should be able to tell by the consistency of the mixture. Also, although you need only two tablespoons of panko, it really is a better choice than plain bread crumbs for the crunch factor.

For the directions in this recipe, there also are notes. I suggested waiting 10 minutes before removing the moisture from the cauliflower. That’s based on its cooling. If the cauliflower is still hot, wait a bit longer to avoid getting burned. Next, when baking these tots, you want to see a deep golden brown exterior. That will provide the crunch that you’re seeking.

You can’t pass these off as actual Tater Tots, but they definitely make a delicious variation on the original.

Baked cauliflower tots
Makes 24

3 cups cauliflower florets
2 egg whites
3 Tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoons panko
1/2 cup shredded cheddar
1 teaspoon garlic powder
Salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Place cauliflower florets in a food processor, and purée until the consistency of bread crumbs.
Place the ground cauliflower in a microwave-safe bowl, cover, and heat for 2 minutes on high.
Stir, re-cover, and return to the microwave for another 2 minutes.
Uncover and allow to sit for 10 minutes, then transfer to a double layer of paper towels.
Gently squeeze the paper towels to remove excess liquid.
Return cauliflower to the bowl.
Add egg whites, flour, panko, cheddar and garlic powder, and mix well.
Season with salt and pepper, if desired.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Scoop 1 tablespoon of the mixture, and form into an oval tot shape; place on the prepared pan.
When all tots are formed, place tray in oven and bake for 12 minutes.
Flip tots, and bake for another 10 to 12 minutes or until golden brown on both sides.
Serve immediately with ketchup or preferred dipping sauce.

Featured Photo: Baked cauliflower tots. Photo by Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Jenn Spelas

Jenn Spelas and her husband, Troy Waterman, regularly appear across the Granite State with two food trailers — Monster’s Tacos (find them on Facebook @monsterstacos) specializes in made-to-order street tacos, while Let’s Get Loaded (find them on Facebook @letsgetloadedfries) features a menu of french fries and hot dogs loaded with all kinds of ingredients, as well as fried dough. The pair took over ownership of the two trailers back in April, and since then have held pop-ups in several local spots. Find them next at the Contoocook Chamber of Commerce’s inaugural fall festival on Saturday, Sept. 24, at Elm Brook Park in Hopkinton, where Spelas and Waterman will be with both food trailers. Then on Thursday, Oct. 6, Monster’s Tacos will hold a pop-up at Lithermans Limited Brewery (126B Hall St., Concord). Both trailers are also available to hire for private catering. This winter, Spelas said she and Waterman plan to change the Monster’s Tacos and Let’s Get Loaded trailer names to Truck Off Tacos and Fork Up Ahead, respectively.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A good knife is really important … but there’s also nothing more frustrating than a can opener that won’t open the can. So a good can opener. And I also have to have my personal favorite spatula.

What would you have for your last meal?

It would have to be steak and potatoes.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

The Flying Goose [Brew Pub & Grille in New London]. That is my favorite date-night place to go. … They do a really solid fish, and they have a really good spinach dip. And I love their daily seasonal soups.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from one of your trailers?

I would like to see Matthew McConaughey.

What is your favorite thing on your menu from each trailer?

On the taco truck, I love the carnitas pork, and then I add black beans. … Then for Let’s Get Loaded, I can make my own fried dough every day of the week if I want to, which is pretty awesome. But I also definitely dig the pulled pork sundae. You cannot go wrong.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

I think non-alcoholic beverages are becoming a thing. … The other thing we’ve gotten a lot of calls for are vegan and vegetarian options.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

We’ve started doing some of those meal subscription boxes, and those have been a really big hit. It’s been really fun to try out different things that we wouldn’t normally do … and the kids have really gotten into helping us out with those. … We made pork flautas, and those were super yummy.

Homemade lime crema
From the kitchen of Jenn Spelas and Troy Waterman of the Monster’s Tacos and Let’s Get Loaded food trailers

8 ounces sour cream
1 lime
1 clove garlic, finely chopped (or 1 teaspoon garlic powder)
Salt and pepper to taste

Zest the lime and set aside (you may not need all of the zest). Squeeze the lime juice into a small bowl. Add the sour cream and the garlic. Add in your desired amount of lime zest, then add the salt and pepper to taste. (Optional: If using the crema as a drizzle, add small amounts of milk or cold water until you’ve reached the desired consistency).

Featured photo: Jenn Spelas with her husband, Troy Waterman.

Together at the table

Ansanm to open new restaurant space in Milford

After a year and a half of hosting successful monthly pop-up dinners, the Viaud family is gearing up to open a brick-and-mortar spot in Milford, where you’ll soon be able to get their authentic Haitian meals on a regular basis for the first time, along with some new spins on classic flavors.

Ansanm, which gets its name from the word meaning “together” in Haitian Creole, is due to open on Thursday, Sept. 29, in the former Wicked Pissah Chowdah storefront, just a stone’s throw away from the Milford Oval. It’s the latest phase of a venture that started back on New Year’s Day 2021, when Greenleaf owner and chef Chris Viaud and his mother, Myrlene, ran a menu special of soup joumou, a traditional Haitian squash soup widely referred to as “freedom soup.” The response was so positive that it inspired Viaud, a James Beard Award nominee and a featured contestant on Season 18 of Bravo’s Top Chef, to turn it into a dinner series, bringing his entire family together to share their Haitian heritage with authentic dishes presented at Greenleaf each month.

Myrlene — who is originally from the Port-au-Prince suburb of Pétion-Ville and whom Viaud endearingly refers to as “Chef Mom” — has been the primary head chef of the series, while his dad, Yves; siblings Phil, Kassie and Katie; wife, Emilee, and sister-in-law Sarah have all also taken part. Most of the dinners have been at Greenleaf, although Ansanm has participated in a number of other local events since its inception, most recently at the Concord Multicultural Festival.

Expanding Ansanm into a full-service restaurant first entered the conversation a few months ago, when Myrlene Viaud came across a video online featuring a Haitian food truck in New York.

“I sent the video to Chris and I said, ‘Oh, wouldn’t that be cool!’ We can go to different places, park our truck and sell our food,” she said. “So he was like, ‘Sure, yeah, let me look into it.’ So he started looking around online for a food truck and then this building popped up on his feed.”

Coincidentally, the available space not only ended up being within walking distance of Greenleaf, but it was already outfitted as a restaurant. Wicked Pissah Chowdah, as it turned out, had been operating out of the storefront seasonally and was temporarily closed for the summer — it became vacant once the owners moved across the Oval to rebrand as Bouillon Bistro.

“I didn’t know what to expect, but once I came in here, I was like, ‘Oh, this is really neat,’” Myrlene Viaud said. “It’s already all set up. We don’t have to do much work. … It’s not a huge space, but it’s good enough, and then kitchen-wise I was like, ‘OK, we can do this.’”

Upon walking into the restaurant, you’ll likely immediately notice a transformation, with bright and vibrant colors, hanging artwork and thatch roofing. Myrlene Viaud’s younger sister even brought back all kinds of items she purchased in some Haitian markets that are displayed inside.

Ansanm’s menu will continue to include items that have been main staples at the pop-ups — the griot, or a marinated twice-cooked pork, and the poule nan sós, or braised chicken in Creole sauce, to name a couple — as well as all kinds of authentic dishes totally new to the space.

“I was always telling Chris that there is so much more that we can offer,” Myrlene Viaud said. “[With] the once-a-month thing we were doing, we were limited to two proteins and then the rice and the plantains. So it’s kind of exciting in a way to start opening it up to more and showing off more of the Haitian food that we actually eat on a daily basis, not just the chicken and the griot.”

She has plans to expand into offering Haitian oxtail, stewed goat and stewed fish in a Creole sauce, for instance, in addition to all kinds of options that appeal to vegans and vegetarians, from legume, a stewed vegetable dish made with eggplant, squash, watercress, carrots and spinach, to espagheti (Haitian spaghetti) and macaroni au gratin (Haitian baked macaroni and cheese).

For drinks, there will be some traditional Haitian juices and sodas, including bottles of Cola Couronne, a tropical fruit soda known as the oldest manufactured soft drink from Haiti.

Akasan, which Myrlene Viaud described as a milkshake that’s made from cornmeal flour and served either warm or cold, is also a drink she’s excited to offer. Soon, she said, she’d like to also begin serving menu specials of Haitian fritay, or an assortment of various fried foods.

“Basically what it is is a platter of fried everything. It could be the griot, it could be a fried turkey or beef, but your proteins and everything else on that platter is always fried,” she said.

One facet of Haitian cooking she said is universal is the epis, or a blend of herbs and spices that’s used as a seasoning base for almost everything. Epis is made with scallions, onions, parsley, garlic, peppers, thyme and cloves. Additionally, one of the more hot-ticket items during Ansanm’s pop-ups was pikliz, a spicy pickled vegetable slaw consisting of cabbage, carrots, onion and peppers — just like before, jars of fresh pikliz will be available for purchase.

Ansanm will also feature some of its own sandwich creations that uniquely embrace Haitian ingredients and techniques. The “V.O. Griot,” for example, will feature pork shoulder that’s marinated in epis before it’s roasted, sliced and served on a house adobo-seasoned brioche bun with smoked ham, cheese, spicy pickled cucumber and a pikliz aioli.

“A lot of the sandwich inspiration is going to be just based on the same ingredients … or cooking processes that we use for the meats, but applied to sandwich form,” Chris Viaud said.

As for dessert, you can expect Myrlene Viaud’s famous scratch-made pineapple upside down cake, another favorite from Ansanm’s pop-ups. Tablet, commonly referred to as brittle but described by Chris Viaud as being more like a praline-style treat, will also be available — that, he said, is typically made with either peanuts, cashews or shredded coconut.

To start, Ansanm will be open Thursday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, and while there is available seating inside, Myrlene Viaud said she expects most of the service to be takeout. Limited hours on Sunday mornings will also likely be coming soon.

Even though she never thought she’d open her own restaurant, Myrlene Viaud said she’s humbled by the interest and support that Ansanm has received.

“The evolution has been something special … and it’s been very exciting to offer and to see the interest that people have and the willingness to try the food,” she said.

Ansanm
Opening Thursday, Sept. 29, at 11 a.m.
Where: 20 South St., Milford
Anticipated hours: Thursday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., with expanded hours likely early on Sunday mornings
More info: Visit ansanmnh.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram or call 605-1185

Featured photo: Braised chicken in a Creole sauce, with plantains, rice and pikliz, a spicy slaw. Photo courtesy of Ansanm.

On the vine

A look at this season’s grape harvest at New Hampshire wineries

Extreme heat and unusually dry weather this summer have caused New Hampshire winemakers, in at least a few cases, to harvest their grapes earlier than normal. As of Sept. 15 more than 91 percent of the Granite State was experiencing “abnormally dry” conditions, according to data from the U.S. Drought Monitor, with 48 percent under a moderate, severe or extreme drought.

Despite the drought, this year’s crop is looking to be a bountiful one at Black Bear Vineyard in Salisbury. Owner Ted Jarvis said the largest grape harvest he ever had was back in 2016, also a drought year.

Black Bear Vineyard is getting ready for its third annual Harvest Fest, happening the weekend of Saturday, Sept. 24, and Sunday, Sept. 25, when visitors will be able to watch the fruit getting destemmed and crushed before tasting samples of the juice used to create the wines. Each day will also feature on site food trucks, local vendors and live music acts.

“High and dry is the way the vines like it,” Jarvis said. “Everything is looking fantastic on the vineyard this year. We’re super-excited about our production that we’re going to end up with.”

In Amherst, LaBelle Winery held its annual grape harvest on Sept. 18, which is about 10 days ahead of schedule, according to co-owner and winemaker Amy LaBelle. With the help of Vineyard Club members, family and friends — and this year, the public — winery staff spent the morning gathering seven varieties of fresh grapes, each used to produce wines on site.

“We haven’t had much rainfall, and so that means our grapes are smaller and the skin’s a little bit thicker and tighter than it would normally be,” LaBelle said of this year’s crop impact.

Tracking acid and sugar levels in grape samples helps to determine their targeted harvest date. The weather patterns of the last few weeks leading up to harvest are always the most crucial, LaBelle said — in a perfect world, this means cooler nights in the high 40s to 50 degrees.

“For us, we like to leave them just a little extra [longer] to when the nights begin to dip into lower temperatures,” she said. “When the temperatures drop enough, the grape begins to convert its malic acid into more palate-friendly acids … and that gives us a much more pleasant-tasting wine. It would be the perfect season if we could end with just a few cool nights.”

Visit a local vineyard
• Appolo Vineyards (49 Lawrence Road, Derry, 421-4675, appolovineyards.com)
• Averill House Vineyard (21 Averill Road, Brookline, 244-3165, averillhousevineyard.com)
• Birch Wood Vineyards (199 Rockingham Road, Derry, 965-4359, birchwoodvineyards.com)
• Black Bear Vineyard (289 New Road, Salisbury, 648-2811, blackbearvineyard.com)
• Flag Hill Distillery & Winery (297 N. River Road, Lee, 659-2949, flaghill.com)
• Fulchino Vineyard (187 Pine Hill Road, Hollis, 438-5984, fulchinovineyard.com)
• LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst; 14 Route 111, Derry, 672-9898; labellewinery.com)
• Shara Vineyards (82 Currier Road, Concord, 836-9077, sharavineyards.com)
• Sweet Baby Vineyard (260 Stage Road, Hampstead, 347-1738, sweetbabyvineyard.com)
• Zorvino Vineyards (226 Main St., Sandown, 887-8463, zorvino.com)

On Saturday, Oct. 2, at 11 a.m., LaBelle Winery will host the fourth and final session of its Walks in the Vineyard series in Amherst. Vineyard manager Josh Boisvert and wine educator Marie King will lead attendees on an educational walk through the property that will focus on the vines’ overall life cycles. You’ll also get to taste four different types of wines during your visit.

For some other local vineyards, the grape harvest season is already underway — Appolo Vineyards in Derry kicked off its harvest on Sept. 3 and will hold a ticketed harvest and stomp festival on Saturday, Sept. 24, and Sunday, Sept. 25, while for Fulchino Vineyard in Hollis, the season began “in spurts” over the course of several days dating back to late August. Owner and winemaker Al Fulchino said he’s also planning to bring back the Hollis Grape Festival for a sixth year on an upcoming date, likely in October.

Grape harvest and winery events

• Saturday, Sept. 24: The outdoor wine garden at Shara Vineyards will be open for its only day of the month for tastings and tours, from 2 to 5 p.m. Tours are $10 per person.
• Saturday, Sept. 24, and Sunday, Sept. 25: Black Bear Vineyard celebrates its grape harvest season with its third annual Harvest Fest, beginning at 11 a.m. both days. Guests will have the chance to learn how wine is produced from grapes grown right on the vineyard, and each day will feature live music and food trucks on site. Tickets are $15 per person and can be purchased through Eventbrite.
• Saturday, Sept. 24, and Sunday, Sept. 25: Appolo Vineyards holds a harvest and stomp festival, from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. both days. In addition to grape harvesting opportunities, there will be winemaking tours starting at 10 a.m., grape foot stomping and more. Tickets are $50 per person and include a catered lunch and other amenities.
• Sunday, Sept. 25: Averill House Vineyard holds its next Taste, Tour and Bottle Experience, an ongoing series of events held most Sundays, at noon and 2 p.m. Attendees get a guided tour of the winery and vineyard and will learn directly from staff all about the winemaking process. The cost is $59 per person and includes your own bottled wine to take home.
• Sunday, Oct. 2: LaBelle Winery hosts the fourth and final session of its Walks in the Vineyard series at 11 a.m. in Amherst, featuring an educational walk and up to four wine tastings. Admission is $32.55 per person and includes tax.
• Wednesday, Oct. 19: LaBelle Winery Derry holds a blindfolded wine tasting at 6 p.m. Attendees will try five wines while blindfolded during each session, relying on their senses of smell and taste to guess which is which. Admission is $43.40 per person and includes tax.

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of Black Bear Vineyard in Salisbury.

The Weekly Dish 22/09/22

News from the local food scene

• Greek night out: Join St. Philip Greek Orthodox Church (500 W. Hollis St., Nashua) for its annual Taverna Night on Saturday, Sept. 24, from 7 to 11 p.m. The event will include an evening of Greek appetizers, desserts, dancing and live music from the local band Ta Pethia. Admission is $35 for adults and $20 for attendees under 18. Visit stphilipnashua.com.

• A world of wines: Tuscan Market (9 Via Toscana, Salem) will hold its 10th annual Passeggiata wine tasting on Friday, Sept. 23, from 5 to 7 p.m. Tickets are $35 per person and will include sampling access to more than 25 different types of wines, along with light food options and raffle prizes. Visit tuscanbrands.com.

Join WineNot Boutique (25 Main St., Nashua) for Wines of Italy, a special wine tasting event happening on Wednesday, Sept. 28 — three sessions are available, from 5 to 6 p.m., 6 to 7 p.m. or 7 to 8 p.m. More than a dozen Italian wines will be available to taste, along with cheeses and charcuterie accoutrements to enhance the experience. The cost is $20 per person. Visit winenotboutique.com.

• Fall brews: To Share Brewing Co. (720 Union St., Manchester) holds its annual Oktoberfest celebration on Saturday, Sept. 24, from 1 to 9 p.m. The event centers around the release of To Share’s most popular seasonal beer, its Oktoberfest altbier — also included will be various Oktoberfest-themed snackboards, and pretzels courtesy of The Hop Knot. Stein hoisting competitions will be held at 4 and 6 p.m. (space is limited). Admission is free and no reservations are required. Visit tosharebrewing.com.

Save the date for the second annual Fall Fest at Northwoods Brewing Co. (1334 First New Hampshire Turnpike, Northwood) on Sunday, Sept. 25, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. In addition to multiple beer releases — including a special double IPA in collaboration with Forever Locked and the Wildlife Heritage Foundation of New Hampshire — the festival will feature a craft market, live music all day, demonstrations, a special exhibit and more. Proceeds from this year’s event benefit Wings of the Dawn, with a dollar of every pint sold going directly to the organization. Visit northwoodsbrewingcompany.com.

Red, White & Brew, a craft beer and wine festival presented by Veterans Count, returns to Funspot (579 Endicott St. N., Laconia) on Saturday, Sept. 24, with VIP admittance from noon to 1 p.m. and general admittance from 1 to 4 p.m. The event also features food, a car show, raffles, an auction and live music from The Bob Pratte Band. Tickets are $25 general admission, $40 VIP admission and $10 for designated drivers. Admission for all attendees includes sampling tickets and a commemorative wine glass while supplies last. Visit vetscount.org.

• Manchester liquor store now open: The New Hampshire Liquor Commission opened a new Liquor & Wine Outlet store in Manchester on Sept. 8, according to a press release. The 13,000-square-foot store is at 850 Gold St. in the Queen City, featuring a selection of more than 4,000 sizes and varieties of wines and spirits. According to the release, the NHLC announced it has also begun construction on a new outlet in Nashua, which is expected to be ready to open by May 2023. Since 2012, the NHLC has opened or renovated new Outlet locations in more than 30 communities statewide. Visit liquorandwineoutlets.com.

Stay in the loop!

Get FREE weekly briefs on local food, music,

arts, and more across southern New Hampshire!