Category: Food

The Weekly Dish 22/07/28

News from the local food scene

• Culture and community: A citywide celebration of cultural diversity through local food and music, the Lowell Folk Festival is returning in person for its 35th year, from Friday, July 29, through Sunday, July 31, across multiple areas of downtown Lowell, Mass. According to a press release, this year’s festival will feature 18 ethnic food stands operated by area nonprofits and community groups — each will offer a different traditional cuisine that showcases their heritage. Booths will be set up near three of the festival’s four stages, featuring everything from Greek, Filipino, Jamaican and Indian foods to Middle Eastern, African, Brazilian, Polish and Armenian options. There will also be two days of cooking demonstrations and discussions, taking place on Saturday and Sunday, from noon to 5 p.m., at Lucy Larcom Park. According to the release, these will include moderated presentations with home cooks showing various comfort foods from their cultures, like Polish pierogi, Greek potato fries, Lithuanian vegetable and chicken stews, Vietnamese spring rolls and more. A full schedule of live music and dance performances hailing from all around the world are also planned across each of the festival’s four stages, while local art and craft demonstrations will take place in the courtyard between the National Historical Park Visitor Center and the Brush Art Gallery. Admission is free. Visit lowellfolkfestival.org.

• Fresh food fast: The Common Man Roadside just opened its newest restaurant and cafe inside the Tru by Hilton Manchester Downtown hotel building in the city’s Millyard (451 Commercial St.), Bill Boynton, director of public relations and community engagement for Granite State Hospitality, which owns each store, confirmed. Similar to its sister locations in Hooksett, Plymouth and across town on South Willow Street, The Common Man Roadside features various made-to-order and grab-and-go items, with an emphasis on takeout and mobile and online ordering. All feature eclectic menus of appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, salads, pasta, pastries, ice cream and various hand-crafted coffees and other drinks. Among the already popular new offerings, Boynton said, are crispy cod and Nashville hot chicken sandwiches. The interior look of the eatery features an open kitchen with an homage to the past that includes reclaimed wood from New Hampshire barns and brick salvaged from the former Concord rail station. Extensive inside and outside seating is available, as well as a “live edge” wood bar. The Common Man Roadside Market & Deli’s Plymouth location, a restaurant within a convenience store, opened in October 2019, and the South Willow Street location arrived the following summer. Current hours on Commercial Street are Monday through Saturday, from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m. Visit thecmanroadside.com or follow the company’s newest spot on Facebook @thecmanroadsidenhmillyard.

• Can it: Flag Hill Distillery & Winery (297 N. River Road, Lee) recently announced the release of Incognito, the company’s first canned wine. According to a press release, Incognito is a “wine disguised as summer,” featuring a blend of Flag Hill’s raspberry and Cayuga white wines that’s lightly carbonated, with one can equalling two-and-a-half glasses of wine. Cans are currently available at Flag Hill’s store and tasting room, and distribution to other stores is also expected. Visit flaghill.com or follow the Incognito pages on Facebook and Instagram @incognitocanwine for updates.

Mombasa Michelada

I’ve never been very good at meditating.

I had an instructor tell me once that it’s important to listen to your heartbeat or think very hard about your breathing. The way he put it, your brain is like a monkey that is always looking for something to do, so you need to distract it with counting and stuff.

“That makes sense,” I thought to myself. “Because, when you think about it, monkeys are pretty mystical creatures. It’s weird how wizards and witches have familiars and patronuses like cats or elk, because it would be really something to meditate and manifest a pack of angry mandrills. And actually, Angry Mandrill would be a really good name for a high-proof, banana-flavored rum. Maybe with chilies in it….”

And I missed another opportunity for self-enlightenment.

The only time I actually ever succeeded at meditating, it happened — as so many important things in life do — when I wasn’t trying to.

At one point in my youth, I found myself broke on the streets of Mombasa, on the East Coast of Africa. Well, not broke-broke — not George Orwell broke — but not in a position to be picky about my hotel accommodations. Somehow, I found myself surprised at how hot and humid it was. This should not have been much of a shock, as I was on the Equator, about a mile from the Indian Ocean, but The Obvious has always been a bit of a blind spot for me.

I needed someplace to stay, and I followed a couple of German backpackers to a not-quite-scary, kind-of-OK-if-you-squinted-at-it-hard-enough hotel. I managed to score a room for a couple of dollars a night.

(As it turned out, the reason the cheapest room was so cheap was that its window was right next to the loudspeaker of the mosque next door that called worshipers to prayer at five each morning. But that’s another story.)

Obviously, my room didn’t have anything like air conditioning — though there was a large ceiling fan over my bed — and I didn’t have any money to go out at night, but that was OK, because the sheer, overwhelming heat and humidity sucked away any enthusiasm I might have had to do anything anyway.

For two nights, I lay on my bed all night, under the fan sweating.

I kept two or three liters of water by the bed and I would alternate sweating and drinking, drinking and sweating. Taking in water, and feeling it seep back out of me. Over and over again.

It was the single most meditative experience of my life.

So, as I look at the weather forecast for the next week, with temperatures and humidity predicted to be in the 90s, I find myself somewhat uncharacteristically nostalgic for Mombasa.

Mombasa Michelada

A michelada is a Mexican beer cocktail. Many people make theirs very much like a bloody mary, with tomato or even clam juice, spices and sometimes an extra shot of tequila. I like mine a little on the lighter side to facilitate the whole meditative sweating thing.

1 lime wedge and some chili-lime spice to rim the edge of your glass or mug. I like Tajin.

2 oz. passion fruit cocktail – you can find this on the top shelf in the juice aisle at your supermarket

  • ½ teaspoon hot sauce – I like Cholula
  • ½ teaspoon miso paste
  • A pinch of celery salt
  • A pinch of black pepper
  • A handful of torn and mangled cilantro leaves
  • A bottle of Pilsner or lager beer – you can’t go wrong with something Mexican like Modelo

Rub the rim of your glass with your lime wedge, then set it aside for your garnish. Sprinkle some of your chili-lime powder on a plate and touch the rim of your glass down in it to rim the edge of the glass.

Chop or tear your cilantro and put it in the bottom of your glass. This is optional, if you are one of those people who think it tastes like soap, but it is highly recommended.

Fill the glass halfway with ice. This is somewhat heretical; you have been warned.

In a separate dish or cup, mix the hot sauce, miso, celery salt and pepper into a paste. Slowly mix in the passion fruit juice, until it is all smoothly mixed. Pour the mixture into your glass.

Fill the glass with beer and garnish with your lime wedge. Stir gently.

Beer, spice and acidity are excellent playmates. This is a surprisingly meditative drink.

Hmm. Delicious, but maybe a bit strong — add more beer.

Oh, that’s good! But now the cilantro is taking over a little — add a little more juice.

Repeat.

I’m not saying that this experience will be the same as lying under a fan on the equator, counting the cracks in the ceiling, but I recommend it anyway.

Featured photo. Mombasa Michelada. Photo by John Fladd.

Maple bacon scones

These scones are the most indulgent ones I make. Filled and topped with bacon and coated with a maple glaze, they are definitely not a healthy food. However, every single bite is amazing. From the crispy, salty bacon to the tender dough to the nicely sweet glaze, these scones are an edible delight.

This scone recipe takes a little longer than a typical recipe because you need to add time for cooking and cooling the bacon. Of course, it’s bacon, so it’s worth the extra effort.

When making these scones, there are a few important ingredient notes. I would not use thick cut bacon in this recipe. You want a thinner cut to make it easier to bite into. Also, these are maple scones, so real maple syrup is required. Don’t use pancake syrup. They won’t be the same. Finally, if you don’t usually buy buttermilk, you can skip it. Add a little less than a tablespoon of white vinegar to the milk, and let it set for 5 minutes: instant buttermilk.

With ingredient notes in hand, it’s time to shop and make these extra special breakfast treats.

Maple bacon scones
Makes 12

2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
5 Tablespoons chilled, unsalted butter, diced
10 strips cooked bacon, divided
⅓ cup maple syrup
½ cup buttermilk
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon maple extract
1 cup powdered sugar
¼ cup maple syrup

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a large bowl.
Add butter.
Combine dry ingredients using a pastry blender (or two forks) until butter is reduced to the size of grains of rice.
Dice 5 strips of bacon. (Set aside remaining 5 strips for topping)
Whisk 1/3 cup maple syrup, buttermilk, egg yolk and maple extract in a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl.
Add liquids to dry ingredients; mix until dough forms a ball.
Place dough on a lightly floured surface and press into a 10-inch square.
Cut into 12 rectangles.
Transfer wedges to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet.
Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the scones are crusty on top and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
Transfer scones to a baking rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes.
Combine powdered sugar and 1/4 cup maple syrup in a small bowl.
Spoon maple glaze over scones.
Cut remaining bacon into 1- to 2-inch sections, and place atop glazed scones.

Featured Photo: Maple bacon scones. Photo courtesy of Michele Pesula Kuegler.

In the kitchen with Matt Berry and Dante Marino

Matt Berry and Dante Marino, along with Dante’s brother Vinny, are co-owners of Deadproof Pizza Co. (deadproofpizza.com, and on Facebook and Instagram @deadproofpizzaco), a mobile pizza pop-up company launched earlier this year that now regularly appears at local breweries, events and private catering gigs. The group made their debut at Taco Tour Manchester on May 5 — since then, they’ve appeared at several events, including 603 Brewery’s 10th anniversary celebration in Londonderry in June, and the annual Keep NH Brewing Festival in Concord earlier this month. Deadproof Pizza Co. features a core menu of eight pies, all served in 10-inch sizes, from a classic cheese to a meat lover’s pizza, a Hawaiian pizza and a prosciutto and fig pizza, along with rotating specials. With his wife, Lauren, Berry also co-owns Dahlia Restaurant, a series of New England-inspired farm-to-table pop-up dinners oftentimes organized in collaboration with area businesses. Marino, meanwhile, is the owner of Ethos & Able Creative, a local marketing and branding business. You can find Deadproof Pizza Co. next at Lithermans Limited Brewery (126B Hall St., Concord), where Berry and Marino will be slinging pizzas on Saturday, July 23, from noon to 8 p.m.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

Matt: We use spoons constantly. … We also stumbled across this mini 12-inch pizza turner when we were testing different peels we wanted to use. It’s the best thing we’ve ever bought.

Dante: When I cook at home, I underestimate how much I use a spatula. I feel like I’m always doing something with it.

What would you have for your last meal?

Dante: My grandmother’s fried eggplant and chicken cutlets.

Matt: A bacon double cheeseburger with French fries and a strawberry milkshake.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

Matt: Earth’s Harvest in Dover. [Chef] George [Bezanson] makes the best sandwiches I’ve ever had. … He’s such a good dude, one of the sweetest, genuine people in my life, and his sandwiches are unreal.

Dante: If I had to go with someone more recently, we met The Traveling Foodie at the Keep NH Brewing Festival, and their stuff was nuts. They do some absolutely amazing food.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from Deadproof Pizza Co.?

Matt: Pauly Shore. I’ve always wanted to see him. It’s low-key on my bucket list.

Dante: Ryan Reynolds. I just think he fits our vibe. He’s deadpan funny, and also he’s Deadpool, and we’re Deadproof.

What is your favorite pizza on your menu?

Dante: For me, it would definitely be the Trust Fund. It’s a pie with whipped Boursin cheese, truffle hot sauce and prosciutto.

Matt: Our classic OG. It’s such a good pie. I’ll eat it cold and it’s still delicious.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Matt: Cliche enough, I’m going to say right now that it’s pop-ups. Some people have been starting their own pop-up businesses like myself, just after quarantine. … They’re definitely becoming more and more relevant in New Hampshire, and luckily ours have been very well received.

Dante: People are realizing that starting their own pop-ups are more accessible now than ever, and it’s a nod to how closely knit businesses have become. … They may not even be in the same industry, but they work together.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Dante: I guess my favorite thing would be smash patties or fried chicken, because I like to find ways to be experimental with different flavors.

Matt: At the end of the day, it’s whatever’s quick and simple and what my daughter will eat. She just turned 2 and she has a palate that’s better than most adults I know. We definitely feed her some not very traditional things. She’s absolutely not picky.

“The perfect pie”
From the kitchen of Matt Berry and Dante Marino of Deadproof Pizza Co.

For the dough:
¼ cup warm water
¼ Tablespoon sugar
¼ Tablespoon active dry yeast
Heavy pinch of kosher salt
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for forming
2 teaspoons garlic oil
Heavy pinch of fine cornmeal

Toppings:
2 ounces pizza sauce of choice
2 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese
1 ounce grated pecorino cheese (grated Parmesan also works)
4 to 5 fresh basil leaves
Pinch of Maldon salt (flaky sea salt)
5 whole cloves garlic
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 sprig each of thyme, rosemary and fresh oregano
1 Tablespoon kosher salt

Combine the olive oil with thyme, rosemary, oregano and whole cloves of garlic in a small saucepan over low heat. Let it cook for about 30 minutes, or until the garlic has turned golden brown, stirring occasionally. Add a tablespoon of kosher salt; stir to dissolve. Strain and let cool. Dissolve the sugar, yeast and salt into the lukewarm water. Add the strained oil. Add the flour — start with 5-and-a-half cups, adding as needed — and mix by hand or with a stand mixer until the dough is smooth and elastic. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl and cover. Let it sit for about one to two hours. If you have a pizza stone, place it in an oven set to 450 degrees at least 30 to 45 minutes before you intend to bake. Remove dough and form into a circle by hand on a lightly floured surface. Using a rolling pin, roll out to roughly 10 inches, keeping it as circular as possible. Once rolled out, slide onto a peel (or a flat cookie sheet with no edges) that’s been lightly dusted with cornmeal. Add your sauce and cheese. Carefully slide the pie off the peel onto your preheated pizza stone and let it cook for roughly 10 to 15 minutes. Pull out of the oven and immediately dust with pecorino. Sprinkle evenly and let your pie cool for about two minutes. Roll up your basil leaves and slice thinly, throwing some on your pie to taste. Slice up, sprinkle your slices with Maldon salt and enjoy.

Featured photo: Left to right: Vinny Marino, Matt Berry and Dante Marino, co-owners of Deadproof Pizza Co. Courtesy photo.

Griddles and fiddles

Bluegrass BBQ returns to Concord

“A foot-tapping, lip-smacking good time” is promised at the annual Bluegrass BBQ, returning to White Park in Concord for its third year on Saturday, July 23. One of the chief fundraisers for the Concord Coalition to End Homelessness, the event will feature several barbecue options to choose from, along with a full lineup of local bluegrass artists performing throughout the day.

“We launched this event during Covid and it’s been very, very well received by the community,” said Greg Lessard, CCEH’s director of housing initiatives. “It’s been growing, too. We served 200 meals the first year and 550 the next year. … This year, we’re planning on 600.”

Scenes from the Bluegrass BBQ. Photos courtesy of Mulberry Creek Imagery.

The menu includes a total of five ordering packages for food. The “pitmaster special” is the most generous portion of barbecue and includes a meal of Texas-style brisket, pulled pork, smoked sausage, baked beans, coleslaw, pickled red onions and a pecan garlic barbecue sauce, along with a bun and a drink. There’s also a pulled pork sandwich meal with each of the same sides, or you can order the sandwich separately. A grilled hot dog meal with a bag of chips and a drink and a vegetarian meal featuring a hummus and tabouli wrap round out the food offerings.

Bill Wilcox of Wilcox & Barton, a local civil engineering company with a corporate office in Concord, is also a barbecuing enthusiast. He’ll be the chief pitmaster at the event, Lessard said.

“He’s a civil engineer, but he’s a chef as a hobby. … He has a custom-made smoker that was built down in Houston,” Lessard said. “He basically does all of the cooking, and then we’ve partnered with the Concord Food Co-op … [to do] all the prep work for the non-meat products.”

As during previous years, the event is tailgate-style — attendees are encouraged to place their barbecue orders online and then arrive at the park with chairs and picnic blankets to pick up their food and enjoy the music. A total of four bluegrass acts are each expected to play 90-minute sets. Paul Hubert will kick things off at 11 a.m., followed by Concord bluegrass and Americana group Bow Junction at 12:30 p.m., Whiskey Prison and 2 p.m. and soloist Hank Osborne at 3:30 p.m.

The Coalition has already raised more than $51,000 through 70 business sponsorships, and all food sale proceeds will go directly toward its programs. In the event of inclement weather, Lessard said, the barbecue will take place the following day, Sunday, July 24.

Live music schedule
• Paul Hubert: 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
• Bow Junction: 12:30 to 2 p.m.
• Whiskey Prison: 2 to 3:30 p.m.
• Hank Osborne: 3:30 to 5 p.m.

3rd annual Bluegrass BBQ
When: Saturday, July 23, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (food service runs from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.); rain date is Sunday, July 24
Where: White Park, 1 White St., Concord
Cost: Options include a pitmaster special ($40), a pulled pork sandwich meal ($25), a hot dog meal ($10) and a vegetarian hummus and tabouli wrap meal ($25); place your order in advance online for pickup at the event
Visit: concordhomeless.org/bluegrass-bbq

Featured photo: Scenes from the Bluegrass BBQ. Photos courtesy of Mulberry Creek Imagery.

The Weekly Dish 22/07/21

News from the local food scene

• Fresh from the sea: Join the Bedford Village Inn (2 Olde Bedford Way, Bedford) for a New England lobster bake on Thursday, July 28, at 6 p.m., outside on its Grand Terrace. The evening will kick off with a cocktail hour, followed by assorted hors d’oeuvres, a family-style dinner and a unique tabletop s’mores service for dessert. Dinners will be plated per guest, featuring Maine lobster and a variety of fixings, including Prince Edward Island mussels, New England steamers and little neck clams, as well as chile butter corn on the cob, Three Rivers Farm potatoes, poppy seed coleslaw, a Heron Pond Farm and Brookford Farm salad blend, and house made rolls with whipped Vermont butter. As for the s’mores, those will be served with assorted flavored house-made marshmallows. Tickets are $125 per person (event is 21+ only) and a cash bar will also be available all evening (additional cocktails, beer and wine are not included). In the event of inclement weather, the lobster bake will take place inside the restaurant’s Great Hall. The Bedford Village Inn’s regional summer dinner series, meanwhile, will continue with a four-course South Carolina dinner on Thursday, Aug. 4, from 6 to 10 p.m. Visit bedfordvillageinn.com or call 472-2001 to make reservations.

• Cocktails and sangria wines: The next installment in The Winemaker’s Kitchen Cooking with Wine class series at LaBelle Winery’s Amherst location (345 Route 101) is scheduled for Wednesday, Aug. 3, at 6 p.m. and will focus on cocktail party recipes. Owner and winemaker Amy LaBelle will lead this interactive demonstration, preparing a classic daiquiri and a French 75 cocktail, as well as an artisan cheese display and mini crab and corn cakes with mustard and white wine crema. Attendees will have a chance to sample each recipe, as well as wine pairings throughout the session. Take-home recipe cards for each item will also be provided. The cost is $35 per person plus taxes, and registration is required. LaBelle Winery is also set to hold a special sangria release party in Amherst on Wednesday, Aug. 10, at 6 p.m. — that event will feature tastings of its Sangria Blanca (white), Verano Sangria (red) and Sangria Rosé, along with a cheese display. Admission is $35 per person. Visit labellewinery.com.

• Pearls Candy to close in August: Longtime Salem candy shop Pearls Candy & Nuts will permanently close its doors by the end of August, citing “health and other reasons,” according to announcements posted on its website and Facebook page addressing its customers. “We truly appreciate you and your patronage,” the message reads in part. “We will continue to have fresh fudge into August, but we will not be ordering any new candy.” The shop is known for its thousands of varieties of nostalgic and hard-to-find novelty candies, as well as fresh hand-roasted cashews and peanuts. According to its website, the first iteration of Pearls opened in Salem in 1976, when Lenny Pearl followed in the footsteps of his father, the owner of Louis Pearl’s in Lawrence, Mass. Online ordering is still available at Pearls, in addition to in-store shopping — the July 8 Facebook post goes on to advise customers to “stock up now while inventory lasts.” The announcement comes just a few months after Manchester’s Candy Kingdom, another longtime family-owned candy shop, also permanently closed in April. Visit pearlscandynh.com.

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