In the kitchen with Ira Street

Ira Street of Manchester is the chef and owner of Squaloo’s BBQ (75 Webster St., Manchester, 232-7288, squaloosbbq.com), a mostly takeout barbecue eatery that opened inside Bunny’s Superette in December. An Army veteran and Chicago native, Street has been working in the food industry for more than 25 years. Squaloo’s, named after his childhood nickname, features a menu of fresh meats smoked daily — several items, like the rib tips and the hot links (spicy smoked sausages), are traditional barbecue staples of the Midwest. Other options include beer can barbecue chicken, fried catfish, jerk chicken, and brisket on weekends, as well as fried apple pie with a side of ice cream for dessert. Since opening its doors, Squaloo’s has joined forces with several other local businesses — they now offer a special catering menu in collaboration with The Potato Concept (thepotatoconcept.com), and also recently held their first barbecue pop-up event at Mountain Base Brewery (553 Mast Road, Goffstown).

What is your must-have kitchen item?

I need my carving knife and my French knife.

What would you have for your last meal?

My last meal wish would probably be brisket, with a side of ribs. I love spare ribs.

What is your favorite local restaurant?

I would love to give a shout out to Backyard Brewery [& Kitchen] on Mammoth Road [in Manchester]. Besides my food, I think it’s the best food in town.

What celebrity would you like to see ordering from your restaurant?

It’s between Denzel Washington and Dennis Rodman. … Denzel is one of my favorite actors, and then Dennis Rodman, when he helped [the] Chicago [Bulls] win those last two championships, he became one of my favorite people.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

That would probably be the jerk chicken … because I put so much time into it, and the finished product is so good to me. There are so many herbs and spices that go into it.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

Thai. I feel like there are a lot of Thai places popping up.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

My go-to at home, when I’m feeling it, is homemade pepper steak and rice.

Chef Ira’s homemade pepper steak
From the kitchen of Ira Street of Squaloo’s BBQ in Manchester

1 round steak, cubed
1 each red and green pepper, cubed
1 sweet onion, cubed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ginger, minced
1 Tablespoon cornstarch
1 teaspoon cooking oil
⅓ cup water
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat one teaspoon of oil over medium heat. Add peppers and onions and cook for three to four minutes. Place on a plate. Add steak to the pan and cook until brown. Add garlic, ginger, peppers and onion to the pan. Mix cornstarch with the water and add to the pan. Cook for 10 to 12 minutes and serve over rice.

Featured photo: Ira Street, chef and owner of Squaloo’s BBQ in Manchester. Courtesy photo.

Italian inspired

Pelham pastry chef takes over Nashua’s Riverwalk cafe

Life sometimes has a funny way of coming back full circle — at least that’s been the case for Rachel Manelas. The Pelham native and internationally experienced pastry chef frequented downtown Nashua’s Riverwalk Cafe & Music Bar while a student at Bishop Guertin High School, never once thinking she would someday take over the spot as owner.

Earlier this year, after studying abroad in Florence, Italy, and launching her own successful home baking business, Manelas purchased the Nashua storefront from longtime owners Steve and Jane Ruddock. She has big ideas for the storefront — now known as Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe — that will include an expanded focus on scratch-made pastries, as well as future plans for an evening menu, all while continuing to offer fresh breakfast and lunch options and house-roasted coffees. An adjoining space that recently became available will soon be home to a larger kitchen.

“I want it to be the place you go to before you go out,” said Manelas, a baking and pastry arts graduate of Johnson & Wales University who went on to attend Italy’s Florence University of the Arts. “In Italy, there’s a concept that I love that’s called aperitivo, where you can get a drink and a small plate or bite of food in the afternoon, and it’s kind of like a happy hour special. … It also helps people be able to taste things that might be different from what they’d been coming in here for. So my goal is to really try to get into a place where we can do that, and hopefully have more room in the new kitchen for experimentation with different foods and pastries.”

After completing her bachelor’s program a year early, Manelas spent the summer of 2019 in Florence, where she “fell in love” with the country and ended up staying longer than the two months planned. In late February 2020 she flew back home to join her family for a vacation, with the goal to return to Italy a week later — Covid, of course, had other plans.

“They canceled my flight and closed the borders. I had left everything there, my laptop included,” Manelas said. “Five months later I got to go back, but within that time frame, I kind of said, ‘OK, I don’t know when they’re going to open the borders again, I need to do something.’”

Around April 2020, while working as a line cook at Windham Junction, she started an online bakery through Instagram called Life’s What U Bake Of It. That business has since evolved into a website with its own online ordering system for specialty cakes, freshly baked cookies, themed French macarons and more — pickups for all of those items are now available at Riverwalk.

The cafe’s regular breakfast and lunch menus have largely remained the same, though Manelas has added her own items here and there, like a smashed avocado toast on fresh sourdough bread with cherry tomatoes, feta cheese and sunflower seeds. Coffees are still roasted in house every week using an old-school Turkish drum roaster, and Manelas is continuing to build on the pastry side — she recently added cinnamon rolls to the menu on the weekends.

“I would also love [for us] to make our own croissants. I used to make them every day in Italy and they are really, really good when they are made from scratch,” she said.

In late 2019, Riverwalk transitioned away from a ticketed live music venue in favor of a more community-focused coffee house and cocktail bar. Manelas said she plans to carry on that vision — a rotating selection of cocktails is available as part of her aperitivo concept.

“I just want it to be a nice meetup place in a casual setting, because it’s such a part of the culture out in Italy … and that was the culture that I fell in love with,” she said.

Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe
Where: 35 Railroad Square, Nashua
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., and Friday through Sunday, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
More info: Visit riverwalknashua.com, find them on Facebook and Instagram @riverwalknashua or call 578-0200

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of Riverwalk Bakery & Cafe in Nashua.

Starring the sandwich

City Hall Pub now open in Manchester

Gourmet deli-style sandwiches and craft cocktails are the stars of the menu at City Hall Pub, a new eatery now open in downtown Manchester’s theater district. The latest addition to Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group, which also owns Mint Bistro, The Wild Rover Pub and Elm House of Pizza — the latter opened on the southern end of Elm Street early last year — City Hall Pub lies directly across the street from its namesake, sporting a uniquely rustic interior look.

Like Elm House of Pizza before it, City Hall Pub inherits a space long used by favored local eateries of the past — most recently, it was a gourmet grilled cheese restaurant and whiskey bar called Cheddar & Rye. Before that it was Tiya’s, a popular Thai restaurant, for several years.

hamburg sandwich on bun, on plate beside bowl of salad
Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

“We’ve really liked a lot of what we’ve been seeing on Hanover Street … and had an opportunity to open a business in a room that I’ve certainly loved over the years, way back to being Tiya’s,” co-owner Tim Baines of Southern New Hampshire Hospitality Group said. “So we wanted to add to what is already a lot of great things going on in the area of downtown … and create a community space where people from all walks [of life] can feel comfortable and gather.”

At a seating capacity of nearly 100, the pub features everything from a renovated back bar to various booths, low- and high-top tables, a larger community table and an outdoor patio.

Along with presenting City Hall Pub as a gathering space, Baines said the eatery’s deli sandwich concept was born out of a desire to bring more lunch options to downtown Manchester.

“We definitely saw a demand for more lunch options in the downtown [area] … and we pride ourselves on being open seven days a week, for both lunch and dinner,” he said.

Out of the gate, Baines said the build-your-own sandwich option has been especially popular. You have five types of bread to choose from — ciabatta, sourdough, a pretzel bun, a whole-wheat wrap or a gluten-free wrap — and can load them with turkey, honey ham or roast beef. The customization goes even further when you add your favorite type of cheese — cheddar, Swiss, mozzarella, American or Gorgonzola — and other toppings, like lettuce, tomato, red onion, pickles or cucumber; and condiments or spreads, like garlic mayonnaise, pesto or honey mustard.

pretzel rolls on plate with 2 types of sauces
Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

If you aren’t that picky, try one of the pub’s specialty sandwiches. The Thai soy chicken wrap and the City Hall burger have been among the top sellers, Baines said — the latter is topped on a pretzel bun with mixed greens, roma tomatoes, red onions and your choice of cheese.

“The City Hall burger has been the most popular item by far,” he said. “Seeing the success of the burger, we’re actually going to be doing a menu revision … and expand on the burger options.”

Non-sandwich options include various soups, salads, chilis and chowders, as well as appetizers, like a spinach queso dip with pita chips, and a hummus and vegetable platter. The full food menu is available until 10 p.m. seven nights a week, while the bar stays open for a few more hours.

On the drinks side you’ll find everything from bottled and draft beers and red and white wines to an extensive classic and specialty cocktail list. Baines said live local jazz music is currently featured at the pub every Thursday night from 7 to 10 p.m., and there are plans to expand the live music schedule in the coming months.

City Hall Pub
Where: 8 Hanover St., Manchester
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight, and Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. (kitchen stays open until 10 p.m., seven days a week)
More info: Visit cityhallpub.com, find them on Facebook @cityhallpubnh or call 232-3751

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of City Hall Pub in Manchester.

The Weekly Dish 22/08/04

News from the local food scene

• Live free, eat local: August is observed as NH Eats Local Month by the New Hampshire Food Alliance — according to a press release, this year’s celebration of farms and food across the Granite State is centered around the Live Free + Eat Local Challenge. Throughout this month, participants can eat at or from five New Hampshire farms or other food businesses for a chance to win a prize. “Whether you adventure to a farm for pick-your-own peaches, look for local food at the grocery store … or buy some seafood from the coast, there are endless ways to eat local food,” Nicole Cardwell, program director for the New Hampshire Food Alliance, said in a statement. Challenge submission forms are available at more than 50 participating businesses, or online at nheatslocal.com. According to the release, they will be accepted through Aug. 31.

• Bring on the poutine: Tickets to this year’s New Hampshire PoutineFest go on sale on Saturday, Aug. 6, at 10 a.m., according to the event’s website. The festival itself is due to return to Anheuser-Busch Brewery (221 Daniel Webster Hwy., Merrimack) on Saturday, Oct. 15, with VIP admission beginning at 11:30 a.m. and general admission beginning at 12:45 p.m. Since 2016 the New Hampshire PoutineFest has brought together local and regional restaurants, food trucks and other vendors to compete for the best poutine dish as voted by attendees. It had traditionally been held in the summer, but the response to last year’s Halloween-themed festival from vendors and poutine-lovers alike has prompted organizers with the Franco-American Centre to make the permanent shift to an October date. Tickets are $39.99 per person for general admission and $49.99 for VIP admission. Kids ages 6 to 12 get in for $14.99 with poutine sampling or free with no sampling, while those ages 5 and under are free. The event is rain or shine and costumes are encouraged. Purchase tickets at nhpoutinefest2022.eventbrite.com.

• Native eats: Join the Hopkinton Historical Society and New Hampshire Humanities for a virtual cooking program on traditional Native American frybread, scheduled for Thursday, Aug. 11, at 7 p.m. via Zoom. Darryl Peasley of the Abenaki Trails Project will lead this demonstration — the program is one of several taking place during the Hopkinton Historical Society’s ongoing exhibit “Gather ’Round: Telling Our History Through Food,” which opened back on June 25. Upcoming programs also include an Abenaki harvest food tasting event at the Slusser Senior Center in Contoocook in October. Visit hopkintonhistory.org for a full list of events and to register.

• Flavors of Haiti: After more than a year of hosting monthly pop-up dinners featuring scratch-made Haitian meals, Greenleaf owner and chef Chris Viaud and his family are gearing up to open up a new brick-and-mortar spot. Ansanm, which gets its name from the word meaning “together” in Haitian Creole, is due to open this fall at 20 South St. in Milford, just off the Oval in the former Wicked Pissah Chowdah storefront, according to recent announcements on its website and social media pages. “We will continue to offer our authentic dishes featuring our family’s recipes along with new twists on the classics,” the post reads in part, also saying that Ansanm will operate as a quick-service restaurant and will feature music, art, food and tropical drinks all celebrating Haiti. Viaud, who was a featured contestant during Season 18 of Bravo’s cooking competition series Top Chef, launched Ansanm in early 2021 as a pop-up dinner series with the help of his wife, parents and siblings. Visit ansanmnh.com for updates.

On The Job – Christine Gagnon

Mushroom forager and educator

Christine Gagnon is a mushroom forager and educator and owner of Uncanoonuc Foraging Company, based in Goffstown.

Explain your job and what it entails.

I have two main jobs. One is to forage for mushrooms or other natural foods. The other bigger job is to teach people about mushrooms and how hugely important they are for the well-being of our planet. They certainly leave noticing fungi a lot more than they did before the class. … Also, I am a moderator and identifier for the international poisons group. It’s a place where people, vets, and poison control to learn about the toxicity of a plant or mushroom that was consumed by a pet or a human. It’s an incredible group of experts from around the world.

How long have you had this job?

Just over a year.

What led you to this career field and your current job?

I became fascinated with fungi almost exactly four years ago. I found a Bear’s head tooth, a relative of lion’s mane, on a hike and that was it.

What kind of education or training did you need?

After I jumped in with both feet, I joined every mushroom group on Facebook. I hiked every day, documenting my finds and learning how to ID with the help of group members. I read books and papers. I still do all of that because learning is lifelong. It never ends. I also attend myco weekends and conferences to learn from my mentors. Two years ago, I decided to take a wild mushroom certification class through the state of Rhode Island.

What is your typical at-work uniform or attire?

Whatever I feel like on any given day: a hat to keep mosquitoes and biting flies off my head, mud boots for all-terrain access, long white pants for specific locations that involve lots of ticks, bug spray, pack basket, knife and walking stick.

How has your job changed over the course of the pandemic?

I started in the spring of 2021. The combination of the pandemic and the very wet summer made for a very full schedule of educational walks. … Mushroom foraging became extremely popular so, really, I couldn’t fail. This year is a little tough. New Hampshire is in a moderate drought, and there are not a lot of mushrooms in this part of the state. There’s a lot to find if you just like to find any mushroom … but if you’re looking to fill your basket for tonight’s dinner, there are no guarantees.

What do you wish you’d known at the beginning of your career?

I’m not sure. It’s still early, yet. I have a lot of connections I’d like to make. I want to find more places to teach classes. I’ll get there.

What do you wish other people knew about your job?

I absolutely love it … but I had to learn a lot to get here. … I spend money and time to learn. I scout trails ahead of time … and there’s a lot of responsibility when teaching people how to identify food. Safety comes first. You have to be able to identify something 100 percent on your own before you decide whether or not you want to eat it.

What was the first job you ever had?

Besides babysitting, it was scooping ice cream at Blake’s Restaurant at the Mall of New Hampshire. That was a long time ago.

What’s the best piece of work-related advice you’ve ever received?

Set the expectations ahead of time so people aren’t disappointed. Without a lot of mushrooms this year, I worry about my walks. One of my mentors told me, ‘Be an entertainer.’ There’s a lot out there to talk about, even if it isn’t mushrooms.

Five favorites

Favorite book: Entangled Life
Favorite movie: Spirited Away
Favorite music: Anything that’s not country pop
Favorite food: Fantasia Pizza at Ray Street Pizza
Favorite thing about NH: Being within driving distance to mountains, lakes and the ocean. We’ve got it all.

Featured photo: Christine Gagnon. Courtesy photo.

Kiddie Pool 22/08/04

Family fun for the weekend

Out in nature

• Creepy and crawly bugs are the big focus at the Squam Lakes Natural Science Center (23 Science Center Road, Route 113, in Holderness; 968-7194) with the Insect Alive Guided Tour on Friday, Aug. 5, from 9 to 10:30 a.m. Walk through the center’s new giant insect exhibit (featuring five much-larger-than-life animatronic insects) with retired NH Fish and Game Biologist Emily Preston and learn about local insects in New Hampshire, according to the website. This event is appropriate for kids ages 6 and older. The cost of the tour is $11 (purchase of admission to the trails is also required) and advance registration required. The Giant Insect exhibit will be on display throughout the center’s Live Animal Trails through Sept. 30. Admission to the trails costs $22 for adults, $20 for age 65+, $16 for ages 3 to 15 and is free for children 2 and under.

Play ball!

• The New Hampshire Fisher Cats kicked off a run of games against the Richmond Flying Squirrels earlier this week but comic book fans might especially want to save the date for the game on Saturday, Aug. 6, at 7:05 p.m. for Cats-Con. The evening will celebrate superheroes, villains, movies, comics and more with characters from Double Midnight Comics and post-game fireworks. Ticket price ranges from $14 to $17.

• Also on the schedule for this week’s games: post-game fireworks after the game on Thursday, Aug. 4, at 7:05 p.m., Pride Night at the game on Friday, Aug. 5, at 7:05 p.m. and a pre-game Princess Brunch before the game on Sunday, Aug. 7, at 1:35 p.m. Click on “baseline” on the tickets page for Sunday’s game to fin the Princess Brunch tickets which cost $25 each and include admission to the game. The brunch starts at 10:30 a.m. and includes a sing-a-long at noon.

• Delta Dental and New Hampshire Fisher Cats are encouraging kids to brush their teeth with free tickets to home games. Kids ages 12 and under can win two free tickets for completing the seven-day challenge of brushing and flossing twice a day. Fill out the downloadable form and bring it on either Aug. 12 or Sept. 3 to Northeast Delta Dental Stadium; see milb.com/new-hampshire/community/oral-health-challenge.

On stage

• The Peacock Players (14 Court St. in Nashua; peacockplayers.org, 886-7000) are putting on their first ever student-produced play, The Little Mermaid Jr., Friday, Aug. 5, through Sunday, Aug. 14. Showtimes are Fridays at 7 p.m., Saturdays at 2 p.m. and 7 p.m., and Sundays at 2 p.m. Tickets cost $15 to $18 for adults, $12 to $15 for children ages 12 and younger.

• The Interlakes Children’s Theatre (One Laker Lane in Meredith; interlakestheatre.com) will presentThe Aristocats Kids on Saturday, Aug. 6, and Sunday, Aug. 7, at 11 a.m.. Tickets cost $10 each.

Playtime at the Children’s Museum

• Author AJ Smith will read his bookTea Time for Dinosaurs at the Children’s Museum of New Hampshire (6 Washington St. in Dover; childrens-museum.org, 742-2022) on Saturday, Aug. 6, at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. The event will include dinosaur activities and a scavenger hunt, according to the website, where you can purchase admission for either the 9 a.m. to noon or 1 to 4 p.m. session. Admission costs $12.50 for everyone over 12 months, $10.50 for 65+.

• Splashing good fun, at the ocean or the museum! Members of the Seacoast Science Center (Odoirne Point State Park, 570 Ocean Blvd. in Rye; 436- 8043, seacoastsciencecenter.org) will get to play for free at the Children’s Museum for the entire month of August. Members of the Seacoast Science Center can also purchase a membership at the Children’s Museum with a 10 percent discount. Register for playtime on the museum’s website.

• And coming up at the Children’s Museum: The annual Teddy Bear Clinic and Picnic will be held Wednesday, Aug. 17, with the clinic from 9 to 11 a.m. and snacks from 11 to 11:30 a.m. Bring a stuffie in need of a check-up and the bear (or other stuffed animal) will receive an ID bracelet and be weighed and measured and given a band-aid if needed, all to get kids ready for their own check-ups, according to the website. The teddy bear fun is included in admission.

• And register now for the “Kick-off to Kindergarten” event on Sunday, Aug. 21, from 1 to 3 p.m. The event will include a visit by Elephant and Piggie (the characters from the Mo Willems books), crafts and more, according to the website. The event is free but pre-registration is required by Aug. 14, the website said.

— Katelyn Sahagian

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