Wrath on Rask

Normally, when the calendar hits Aug. 1 I irrationally begin mourning the end of summer. I just love the freedom of summer, even though from a sports perspective I actually enjoy the other eight months more. I like baseball, but it is a distant third to the fall and winter sports, because the season is endless and many of its so called “progressive” changes have turned a crisp two-hour-and-30-minute game into a daily mini-series, which drives me nuts.

But after the pandemic stole our summer, it’s the first week of September and I barely noticed or even cared. I mean, I spent the most perfect day of the summer on Sunday indoors watching the Celtics spank the Raptors 112-94 in Game 1 of their playoff series. Good game, but it’s something I truly hate doing when the Patriots play 1 p.m. games during September because it feels like I’m stealing my last days of summer.

But that was then and this is now, the new normal. And even in a week where players’ boycotts and game suspensions in support of Black Lives Matters protests in Kenosha, Wisconsin, were the biggest story in sports, the pandemic was still there lurking and taking its toll. So with summer gone and the sport most likely to be disrupted by its impossible-to-avoid close contact set to start when the Patriots take on the Dolphins next Sunday at, ugh, 1 p.m., let’s take a look at what the pandemic has wrought on sports since March.

Bucks fans might disagree because the team’s run at a historic won-lost record was disrupted by the shutdown. But of all the teams and fans getting disappointed most, my vote goes to L.A. and Las Vegas, who’ll both miss the opening of spectacular football stadiums in their cities and things are only brand new once. Especially Vegas fans, who’ll miss the transplanted Raiders first game ever in sin city.

The best line summing up the difficulty baseball had with nine teams playing in the four states with the highest concentration of Covid-19 came from a woman on Twitter after 17 members of the Miami organization tested positive: “the entire city of Toronto has fewer cases than the Marlins.” Which was ironic since the Blue Jays couldn’t even play in that clean city or their own country because of Canada’s quarantine wall of the U.S. Thus they shuffled off to Buffalo to play there.

Speaking of the Marlins, even though they got hit with those 17 positive tests in one day they weren’t the hardest hit by coronavirus. They managed to carry on with replacement players presumably off the docks in Miami to beat the moribund Orioles 4-0 in Game 1 after the quarantine started. It’s the Cardinals, who at the point of their 20th scheduled game already had 15 games canceled. While Ernie Banks would’ve loved to play 15 doubleheaders, doing it in a 60-game schedule is 25 percent of the season! So you have to wonder how they’ll find enough pitchers to do that.

As a result of things like that, injuries are piling up. According to Pete Abraham of the Boston Globe, 104 pitchers are on the IL, including Nathan Eovaldi, who went there Saturday with a calf injury. At a similar point last year 51 were IL’d, not counting 20 more who tested positive.

At the outset of NFL camp word was released Matthew Stafford had tested positive, leading to real family problems. Turned out it was a false positive, but it was already out there, which led to his children and wife Jill being harassed in the grocery store and elsewhere for putting others in danger. Jill was ticked at being put in that predicament by the League, and who can blame her.

The early leader for biggest bonehead of the pandemic was L.A. Clipper Lou Williams for going to an Atlanta strip club while on leave from the bubble for a, ah, “family emergency.” That got discovered when some rapper I never heard of put a picture of the two on social media after Williams supposedly went there for their famous chicken wings. It led to a 14-day quarantine and three missed games. Chicken wings – really? Sounds like a 21st-century version of those who said in the ’60s they bought Playboy for the articles.

That was quickly surpassed by Indians hurlers Mike Clevinger and Zach Plesac for sneaking out of their hotel for a night out in Chicago in violation of league protocol. Plesac was sent home immediately while Clevinger a day later after first lying to the team then exposing all at a team meeting. Plesac later sent a rambling video on Instagram recorded while driving his car, which blamed the media for reporting it and not him for doing it. Don’t think their jobs after baseball will be as rocket scientists.

If you’re like me and not following the baseball standings closely, Tampa Bay is leading the AL East and has the second best record in baseball to Oakland. That after Globe columnist Dan Shaughnessy mocked TB’s approach all winter after Chaim Bloom was hired from that org to be Sox GM.

Tampa Bay vs. Oakland in the ALCS should be a real TV ratings grabber.

The A+ among commissioners goes to Adam Silver. Both for his plan to operate in the Orlando bubble leading to zero positive tests among all involved, and for avoiding a potential season-ending social justice boycott by NBA players after Monday’s police shooting in Kenosha.

This isn’t Covid- 19 per se, but did anyone else see the Facebook picture of Becky Bonner, of the Concord Bonners, furiously diagramming a play in the Magic huddle during an August game? She’s listed as VP of Player Development but guess she’s getting game action time too. Nice.

With most of the college football season wiped out, what in the name of Bernie Kosar will Mel Kiper Jr. do all year?

We’ll get to the Patriots next week.

Mule season

How the Moscow mule and its many variations can take you from summer to fall

A traditional Moscow mule is just three ingredients — vodka, ginger beer and lime juice — poured over crushed ice, garnished with a lime wedge and, of course, served in a copper mug. But it’s also a cocktail that lends itself to countless variations, from the type of alcohol used to the different flavors added, whether you’re working with liqueurs, syrups or purees.

“It’s a very basic drink … but also a very versatile one that you can easily change up,” said Ron Pacheco, assistant general manager of The Foundry Restaurant in Manchester, which has dabbled in all kinds of seasonal mules on its cocktail menu over the years.

Local bar managers and mixologists discuss the unique spins they’ve made on this American bar staple (as it turns out, the Moscow mule was not actually invented in Moscow, nor does it have anything to do with mules) and give some recommendations for the best flavor pairings.

The classic mule

Even a mule’s most basic ingredients have many variations, depending on the brand of vodka or ginger beer used. Elissa Drift, a manager and bartender at Stella Blu in Nashua, said that Gosling’s brand ginger beer is among the most common in making mules.

“It’s a little bit more sweet and sugary … so people aren’t put off by the astringent ginger flavor,” she said, “but you can really use whatever version of ginger beer floats your boat.”

Sarah Maillet, who co-owns 815 Cocktails & Provisions in Manchester, said the mules you’ll find there use Maine Root ginger beer, a brand made with organic cane sugar. A couple of years ago, the downtown speakeasy-style bar also introduced a house Moscow mule recipe on draft.

The brand of vodka is also largely up to personal preference. Drift has used Ketel One and Celsius vodka, while at The Foundry, Pacheco said the No. 1 selling brand for mules is Tito’s. The ratio of vodka to lime juice in a mule will vary slightly depending on where you go.

“It’s always more ginger beer,” Pacheco said. “For us, you’re looking at typically an ounce and a half of vodka … to a half-ounce of lime juice, and then the rest is ginger beer.”

Drift said she likes to incorporate the vodka and the ginger beer into the cocktail at the same time to best combine them before adding the lime juice. A lime wedge is a very common garnish in classic mules, although you might see herbs like mint or basil used.

The origin of the Moscow mule is traced back to Hollywood, California, in the early 1940s. Cathy Dion of Martini’s Etc. Professional Bartending Services, based in Hooksett, said the drink was first known as a vodka buck. A “buck” is a more general term for a cocktail with ginger beer and a liquor, according to Jeff Eagen, a bartender at Earth Eagle Brewings in Portsmouth.

In his 2004 book Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails, author Ted Haigh writes that the Moscow mule is widely credited with popularizing the consumption of vodka in the United States. The story goes that the very first Moscow mule was created in 1941 at the Cock’n Bull Pub on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood. Jack Morgan, then the tavern’s owner, had been brewing his own ginger beer that wasn’t selling, according to Haigh.

Eventually, Morgan collaborated with John Martin, a regular at the Cock’n Bull who had recently acquired Smirnoff Vodka. The Moscow mule, Haigh writes, was created as a way for Morgan and Martin to do something with their excess ginger beer and vodka, respectively, both of which were not popular in America at the time. The drink soon gained popularity in the Los Angeles area and then spread to other parts of the country.

Dion, who specializes in private bartending for weddings and has travelled across New Hampshire, Maine and Massachusetts, said she’s noticed a recent resurgence of Moscow mules.

“I would say that about five or six years ago people mostly did beer, wine and then your basics like vodka soda or gin and tonic,” she said. “The mule kind of came out of nowhere. But it’s definitely a classic wedding cocktail that’s very easy and refreshing. … A lot of people will say, ‘I had it at a wedding, and now I want to have it at my wedding.’”

Beyond the basics

The ginger beer, according to Pacheco, is the most fundamental ingredient found in any mule. But you can make all kinds of variations by swapping out the vodka for another type of alcohol.

If you’re using gin, for example, you’ll get a London mule, or if you’re using tequila, that will make a Mexican mule. Bourbon makes a Kentucky mule, while ginger beer with dark rum is known as a Dark ’n’ Stormy.

“Those are kind of the five general variations,” Pacheco said. “We use six different purees behind the bar, so we’ve done a blackberry Kentucky mule, with a blackberry puree, sugar, lemon juice and water. Last winter we ran a cranberry mule. … On our brunch menu, we do the Sunday morning mule, which is Stoli vodka with orange juice in it.”

Dion said she grows her own fresh herbs like basil and rosemary that she’ll sometimes use as garnishes for her mules, like a blackberry and basil mule.

“I would say it’s definitely more of a summer drink, but you add all kinds of things to sort of ‘fall’ it up, like cranberry or cinnamon sticks or whatever you want.”

Drift has made a Maine mule, which features Cold River blueberry vodka that’s muddled with a fresh blueberry puree and topped with blueberries for a garnish. Stella Blu has also done several types of mules on its cocktail menu, including a mint cucumber mule, a bing cherry puree mule, a London lime mule with Tanqueray Rangpur gin, fall-inspired mules with cider, and a honey mule with Jack Daniel’s honey whiskey and fresh-squeezed lemon.

Another honey-flavored mule can be found at the XO Bistro, on Elm Street in Manchester, known as the Bee Sting. Manager Steve Tosti said this drink features Jack Daniel’s whiskey, ginger beer and a splash of honey liqueur.

At Granite Tapas & Cocktail Lounge in Hooksett, co-owner Jamie Jordan said a Stoli salted caramel mule was recently introduced, featuring Stoli salted caramel vodka, apple cider, ginger beer and an infused simple syrup with cinnamon sticks, garnished with a caramel cinnamon rim.

One of Maillet’s favorites that has been featured at 815 is called the Nor’Easter mule. It swaps the vodka for whiskey and adds maple syrup with the lime and ginger beer. She said she’s also experimented with a Moscow mule ice cream float with vanilla ice cream, and is looking into crafting a mezcal mule with cinnamon and agave moving forward into the fall.

“The possibilities are literally endless,” she said. “You can essentially think of it as like a martini. … You have the classic cocktail and everything’s kind of derived from that.”

Featured Photo: Maine Mule from Stella Blu in Nashua. Courtesy photo.

Fruits of our labor

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And we spend time digging into our stories about food, arts, the outdoors and nightlife as well. In this issue, our food reporter Matt Ingersoll talked to multiple bartenders and cocktail experts about the Moscow mule and its local popularity and variations (Matt uncovered the mule scene!). We’re also introducing a new column called Drinking With John Fladd this week by longtime Hippo veteran John Fladd. Don’t get the wrong idea. We’re about more than drinking. We’re about covering the creativity — in cocktails and food and beyond — that makes southern New Hampshire unique. Local craft, local creativity — that’s the heart of Matt’s story. Who else covers that week after week?

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