In the kitchen with Kyle Burnett

Kyle Burnett’s passion for cooking developed during his time at Lakes Region Technology Center, where he took culinary classes. Growing up, his mother wasn’t much of a cook, which inspired him to learn for himself. Since April of this year he has been working at Sonny’s Tavern in Dover, where is an executive chef for the first time in his career.

What is your must-have kitchen item?

A comfy pair of shoes. When you’re on your feet for 10-plus hours a day, they are essential.

What would you have for your last meal?

A homemade Hawaiian pizza.

What is your favorite local eatery?

If I had to pick one it would definitely be Hong Asian Noodle Bar in Dover.

Name a celebrity you would like to see eating in your restaurant?

I would definitely enjoy seeing Matthew Lillard eating something I’ve made.

What is your favorite thing on your menu?

My personal favorite is the short rib risotto. It definitely hits the spot on some of the colder nights.

What is the biggest food trend in New Hampshire right now?

The use of micro greens as garnish for food.

What is your favorite thing to cook at home?

Chicken pot pie, mostly because it’s my wife’s favorite and I enjoy cooking for her.

Crab cakes
From the Kitchen of Kyle Burnett

1 pound of crab meat
½ cup of corn
1 red onion
1 cup bread crumbs
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup cilantro
1 teaspoon cayenne
2 Tablespoons garlic powder
2 Tablespoons onion powder
2 Tablespoons paprika
1 Tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 eggs

Finely chop red onion and cilantro. Mix together mayonnaise, corn, red onion, cilantro, cayenne, garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, and egg. Mix until well combined. Gently fold in crab meat. Form into 1½-ounce portions and press into a round coin shape.
Pan sear on medium heat with just enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan until browned on one side, then flip over and cook the other side.

Featured photo: Kyle Burnett, executive chef at Sonny’s Tavern. Courtesy photo.

Out with the old, in with the new

815 Cocktails and Provisions in Manchester has reopened

815 Cocktails and Provisions in Manchester reopened its doors this September after closing to undergo renovations, now having officially retired its speakeasy style for a modern approach with a more functional open space and the same classic cocktails.

After a combined 30-plus years of bartending experience, Sarah Maillet and Ryan McCabe originally opened 815 back in 2015.

“We wanted it to be more of a relaxing place where people could come, enjoy and have classic cocktails,” Maillet said. “It has always been in our mind an ode to where bartending began and where it is today.”

The duo spent months researching the market and classic cocktails while trying all kinds of spirits they had never heard of, to create their own cocktail menu that now consists of drinks like Starr Gazer, with Bacardi rum, raspberry liqueur, lychee, lime, demerara and grapefruit bitters, and 815 Old Fashioned with Nebco bourbon, demerara, bitters, orange peel and luxardo cherry. Provisions include flatbreads, such as tomato burrata and pimento pork, salads, tacos, like mushroom carnitas and Brooklyn bodega, a charcuterie and cheese board and more.

“We decided to go back to the old speakeasy theme,” Maillet said. “The entrance was a little bit secretive, there was a phone booth in the hall and there were sliding fake brick walls so it didn’t look like there was an actual restaurant or bar behind it.” Patrons would enter the phone booth, press the button and be asked for that week’s password, which would be posted on 815’s social media pages. After about four years, the password system proved to be a hassle.

“There were always techy kinds of issues,” Maillet said. “I started to feel like, as far as locals go, it wasn’t appealing for them to wander into their local restaurant or bar if they had to jump through hoops to look up a password every week.”

They decided to do away with the password on weekdays, saving it exclusively for weekends. This worked for a while, the speakeasy aspect making 815 a weekend destination theme, but with the arrival of Covid things were complicated further.

“I told Ryan, if there’s ever a time when we can change something and not have to explain it to anybody, now’s the time,” Maillet said. “So at that point we decided to get rid of the password speakeasy aspect of 815, and not just [for] the fact that we were changing and evolving, but it would have been an absolute nightmare … if we had to go into the phone booth … and clean and sanitize it.”

When they first established 815, the pair made do with the layout of the bar and worked with what they had. After occupying the space for several years, they had a better idea of what would ideally work best for them. With the bar needing new subfloors, they decided to take this as an opportunity to renovate, revamp and rebrand 815 entirely, building a bigger kitchen and more comfortable bar, adorning the walls with pictures and murals, removing bulky furniture and doing away altogether with the speakeasy aspect.

Despite the changes, 815 is still the same at its core, continuing to serve cocktails that are both classic and creative.

“I’ve never really let go of that creativity,” Maillet said. “I have an idea of what I like the cocktail menu to look like and keeping it balanced … and I like to think that I have a decent amount of experience under my belt to make a balanced menu and things that people enjoy, that are fun, unique, … approachable, … adventurous, whatever the case may be.”

815 Cocktails and Provisions
Where: 815 Elm St., Manchester
When: Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight.

Featured photo: Photos courtesy of 815 Cocktails & Provisions.

The Weekly Dish 23/11/16

News from the local food scene

Bottle signing with Robert Irvine: Celebrity chef Robert Irvine will be at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlet in Bedford (9 Leavy Drive) on Friday, Nov. 17, from 2 to 4 p.m. for a bottle signing.Featured products include Irvine’s Precision Vodka and Irvine’s American Dry Gin. Visit eventbrite to reserve your spot.

Tour of French wines: Tour the flavors of France and learn about the history and culture of French wine making with wine expert Elizabeth Schneider and Serge from Serge Dore Selections on Saturday, Nov. 18, from 2 to 3 p.m. at the NH Liquor & Wine Outlet in Nashua (Willow Spring Plaza, 294 Daniel Webster Hwy.). Tickets are $12 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

Italian feast: The Hills Restaurant at Hampshire Hills Athletic Club (50 Emerson Road, Milford) is hosting an Italian feast on Wednesday, Nov. 22, serving your choice of Caesar salad or Italian wedding soup, with entrees being eggplant Parmesan or chicken Parmesan over linguine, meatballs and Italian sausage with linguine, and fettuccine alfredo. For dessert, choose tiramisu or limoncello cake. The cost is $30 for adults and $15 for kids under 12. Visit hampshirehills.com.

Holiday tree lighting and supper: Enjoy dinner, a tree lighting and a cash bar at The Barn at Pickering House (116 S. Main St., Wolfeboro) for their 6th annual holiday tree lighting innkeepers supper, featuring chef Krisztina Perron of the Wooden Spoon Catering Co., on Saturday, Nov. 25. Doors and the cash bar open at 5:30 p.m. with the tree lighting taking place at 6:30 p.m. and dinner at 6:45 to 8:30 p.m. Tickets are $75 and can be purchased via eventbrite.

Holiday chocolate: Tour the factory, taste the chocolate and decorate chocolate cabins under the guidance of experienced chocolatiers during the two-hour chocolate holiday cabin class at Van Otis Chocolates (341 Elm St., Manchester) on Saturday, Nov. 25. Class times are at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Tickets are $100 each and can be bought at eventbrite.com.

Hogwarts Yule Ball: Enjoy dinner and dancing at the Hogwarts Yule Ball at LaBelle Winery (345 Route 101, Amherst) on Sunday, Dec. 3, from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. The four-course meal includes Cornish pasty paired with LaBelle Americus wine, Great Hall pumpkin bisque with LaBelle riesling wine, Yule Ball grilled pork chop with LaBelle Red Alchemy wine, and sticky toffee pudding paired with a Butterbeer cocktail. General admission tickets are $114.48 and you must be 21 years or older to attend. Get your tickets before they sell out on eventbrite.com.

Brunch and crafts: Paint your own New Hampshire-themed ornament with Sarah from S. Fenerty Art at Northwoods Brewing Co. (1334 First New Hampshire Turnpike, Northwood) on Sunday, Dec. 3. While your ornament dries, enjoy a breakfast buffet made in house, including quiche, scones, cinnamon rolls, crullers, sausage, bacon and more. Tickets start at $65 and can be purchased on eventbrite.com.

Treasure Hunt 23/11/16

Dear Donna,

I have over a dozen rolls of this used/old paper. Toss or keep? Do you know if anyone would have a use for it?

David

Dear David,

My logic always is there is someone who might have a use for it.

Your wallpaper is from a really good company. It’s been around since the 1800s. I think judging by the pattern it looks to be from around the 1960s or 1970s.

The nice part is you have so many rolls that I’m thinking it could be useful if someone is looking to do a complete room.

Old wallpaper has a collectible market. Age, pattern and condition all factor into the pricing. I have seen many early fragments or partial rolls bring really good money.

Because you have a good amount, if it’s in good condition I would say the value is in the range of $200+. Now you just have to find a collector or a renovator who could use it. Possibly an antique shop could help with that.

David, thanks for sharing.

Kiddie Pool 23/11/16

Family fun for whenever

Celebrating an astronaut

• The McAuliffe-Shepard Discovery Center (2 Institute Dr. in Concord; starhop.com, 271-7827) will hold a “100 Years of Alan B. Shepard Celebration” on Saturday, Nov. 18, from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. with demonstrations, educational activities, special content and archival displays about Shepard, who was born in East Derry on Nov. 18, 1923, according to the website. Admission to the center costs $12 for adults, $11 for 62+ and ages 13 through college, $9 for ages 3 through 12 (kids 2 and under get in for free). Planetarium show tickets cost an additional $6 per person.

• Keep the party going with cake. The Aviation Museum of New Hampshire (27 Navigator Road in Londonderry; 669-4820, nhahs.org) will serve cake, while slices last, in honor of Alan Shepard to visitors Friday, Nov. 17, through Sunday, Nov. 19. The museum is open Fridays and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sundays from 1 to 4 p.m. Admission costs $10 for adults, $5 for ages 6 to 12 and 65+ and veterans/active military, and is free for ages 5 and under, according to the website.

Storytime

• Bookery Manchester (844 Elm St. in Manchester; bookerymht.com) will hold a “Giving Thanks Storytime” with the Kiwanis Club on Saturday, Nov. 18, at 11:30 a.m. The event will also include a craft, according to the website, where you can go to reserve a spot for this free event.

Showtime!

• The Capitol Center for the Arts presents Ndlovu Youth Choir as part of the Gile Series of events on Thursday, Nov. 16, at 7 p.m. in the Chubb Theatre (44 S. Main St. in Concord; ccanh.com). The group, which has a run on Season 14 of America’s Got Talent, is described as having “unique musical arrangements, powerhouse vocals, irresistibly combined with mesmerizing choreography and infectious energy,” according to ccanh.com, where you can see videos including their cover of Dolly Parton’s “Jolene” and “Shallow” from A Star Is Born. Tickets are free but go online to reserve seats.

• The Kids Coop Theatre presents The SpongeBob Musical Friday, Nov. 17, through Sunday, Nov. 19, at the Derry Opera House (29 W. Broadway, Derry). More information and ticket sales are TBA. Visit kids-coop-theatre.org.

• The Peacock Players (14 Court St., Nashua, peacockplayers.org) youth theater company presents Beauty and the Beast through Sunday, Nov. 19. Showtimes are on Friday at 7 p.m., Saturday at 2 and 7 p.m., and Sunday at 2 p.m.

Late fall chores in the garden

Free the trunk flare!

For many of us November is a drab and dreary month: days are short, gray skies the norm. Flowers are largely gone, the soil is soggy and a drizzle or a downpour is common. Soon snow will not be unusual — we’ve already seen a wintry mix. But there are things you can do when the sun comes out — or with rain gear on.

If you planted trees in the past few years, you should look at them carefully. Most planting tags on purchased trees tell you to plant them at the depth they are in the pot. Unfortunately, many trees are grown on huge farms and slapped into pots without regard to the “trunk flare” — that part of the tree that should be above ground.

Look at a mature tree planted by mother nature — or a squirrel. You will see that the base of the tree widens out, and often roots are seen snaking across the soil near the tree for a while before diving down to seek nutrients and moisture. When planting a tree it is essential that the trunk flare be above ground. If it’s not, soil fungi will rot the bark and eventually kill the cambium layer below it. This will kill the tree in six to 10 years. Even if the bark looks flaky and damaged, it probably will recover if you take action now.

If the tree you planted comes straight out of the ground like a telephone pole, or if there is mulch piled up against the tree, you must remove the material that will cause problems.

Mulch is easy to fix. Take your hand and pull it back, creating a doughnut hole for the trunk, at least 4 inches all around. Mulch has its place; it will keep down weeds and help prevent the soil from drying out in times of drought. But more than 4 inches of mulch can also prevent light rains from reaching the roots. Don’t overdo it. No mulch volcanoes. I’ve been seen removing mulch from trees in public spaces!

If there is soil over the trunk flare, use a hand tool to loosen the soil and pull it back, too. You may find little roots there, but cut them off. Re-grade the area for a foot or more around the tree in all directions. For a larger tree that was sold in a burlap wrapping, it is not uncommon to find 3 to 6 inches of soil over the trunk flare. The burlap wrapping — now often made of plastic materials — should have been removed at planting time. If not, your tree is doomed. Plastic wrapping will never degrade, so you need to dig up the tree and remove it now. Burlap will degrade in time, but often not for years.

What else is there to do in the garden now? This is a good time to move shrubs or small trees that are not doing well where they are. Roots do most of their growth between the time leaves drop and the time the ground freezes, which makes this a good time for moving them. Cool temperatures and rainy days help plants you move now, too.

I was visiting long-time friends in Ohio recently, and they had three fothergilla shrubs that had been in the ground five years and done almost nothing. I took a garden fork, thrust it into the soil nearby and tipped it back. Out popped the root ball, as if it had been planted the day before. I picked it up and took a look. Clearly the shrub had been in a one-gallon pot for a long time before they planted it. The roots had grown around and around the pot, keeping them from extending out into neighboring soil for moisture and minerals.

After soaking the root ball in a pail of water, I used my fingers, a small folding saw and a CobraHead weeder to tease the roots apart. I broke or cut some, but it didn’t matter. The shrubs were doomed unless I could get the roots pointed out and away from the tangled mess they’d been in. I replanted them in places with more sunshine and less competition from big perennials in beds where they should grow and be happy. It may take a year or two before they really start to thrive.

It’s tough to know just where to plant a tree or shrub for optimal growth. I like to observe the same species in another garden or ask a friend if they’ve had luck with the same species. The internet can help if you consult a university or arboretum website. I like books, too, especially any written by Michael Dirr. He seems to know more than anyone else. So do your homework, and think about moving any unhappy woody plants.

By the way, it’s not too late to plant spring bulbs, garlic or bulbs for forcing in pots. I particularly like forcing spring bulbs (daffodils, tulips, crocus and more) by potting them up now and keeping them in a cold place where they won’t freeze. Then in February and March I bring them into the warmth of the house, and they bloom early. I pot up enough to give some away to ailing or aged friends.

This is a good time to dig out invasive shrubs like burning bush or barberry that have been planted by birds. Their distinctive leaf color will help you find them now in your woods.

On the next to last day of October this year I plugged in my blue “fairy lights” in my Merrill magnolia and a nice pear tree. It was a gloomy, wet day, and the blue lights looked great against the yellow leaves. Some people call these Christmas or holiday lights, but I consider them just a cheerful boost to my spirits when gardening is nearly done and weather keeps me from doing my final chores.

Henry is a UNH Master Gardener, a regular speaker at garden clubs and libraries, and the author of four gardening books. Reach him by e-mail at [email protected].

Featured photo: Branch collar to left of line drawn shows where to prune a branch. Photo by Henry Homeyer.

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